I WAS disappointed with
the first winter I spent in the Lews. I had expected to see many wild
things there, but noticed few. Of eagles, gulls, hawks, ravens, and
crows, there were plenty, and some martin cats; but I had expected
numbers of wild-fowl, in which I was mistaken. There were ducks and
teal, occasionally wild geese (these last breed in the island). I have
heard of wild swans, which are occasionally shot, but never saw one.
From the lochs, on which the wild fowl are, being very open, they are
hard to be got at. Snipes and plover breed in the country, but generally
leave it towards the middle or end of October. Some remained, and many
came over from other parts to those more northern and western. Golden
plover breed largely there, and abounded on the north and west; but,
though a famous bird to eat, I never saw much pleasure in that sort of
shooting. Woodcocks generally do not arrive in flights till the first or
second week in November, though I have shot them early in October.
Strange to say, though they breed largely on the adjacent mainland, I
never knew an instance of their breeding in the Lews. As there is no
wood in it, all the woodcock shooting is on heather. Particularly good
dogs are wanted to find them; and both you and your dogs must have a
very accurate knowledge of ^ where to look for them. A really good
woodcock dog ought never to forget any spot in which he has ever found a
woodcock. Certainly, the first year of my sojourn I found very few; but
then, perhaps, I did not know where to look for them.
Some parts of the Park
had a great reputation, and justly so, for cocks; but then there was
Loch Seaforth to get over, and the winter days were short, and not so
serene as one would have wished. I got through this first dreary winter,
as I said, very much disappointed, for I never was in any place where
there was so little to shoot or to do, and the weather was so vile, that
once I remember being all but confined to the house for three weeks; but
I solaced myself with the idea (a fond one) of spring fishing—alas! it
was but an idea, for there was no spring fishing to be got—unless you
call catching kelts and foul sea-trout fishing: I don’t. The streams
held brownies, or brown trout, doubtless; but when you did get them,
they were not worth carrying home; and I formed then the opinion that I
have ever since adhered to, that, except in the Grimesta, there is no
such thing as spring fishing in the Lews. And I do not think the fish
come into Loch Seaforth before the middle or latter end of July, if so
early.
As the summer drew nigh,
F. M. and his family, and R. M. came up, and the former brought with him
a little yacht, schooner-rigged, which we flattered ourselves was to be
of the greatest service in taking us round into the different sea-lochs
in the country for fishing, shooting, and stalking purposes. The Heather
Bell was that little craft named; and never were men so deceived as we
were in her useful capabilities. She had a skipper who was a tolerable
carpenter; also an able-bodied seaman, as he styled himself, and we
called him “John of the Yacht”—the most arrant poacher that ever
stepped: he used to shoot deer with slugs on his way home and back
Saturday evening and Monday morning, to pass his Sabbath. The gillies
and our forester occasionally served as crew, and but for the latter,
the sole serviceable seaman of the lot, I believe we should have come to
grief. With no wind that blew could this useful vessel get out of our
loch, and if she ever did get out, she never came back again for months.
F. M. once took his wife a cruise in her, and, coming back, was glad to
land on a rock in the middle of the loch, where he would have been now,
but that, fortunately, R. M. and I were shooting in the neighbourhood,
and our boat was drawn up on the shore, with a gillie in charge, who
descrying the party, relieved them from their position and took them
home. After this event, F. M. only embarked his own precious person in
this sylph of the waves. Did he attempt taking her anywhere stalking,
the odds were he had to land where best he could, and make his way
across country to his ground. She looked pretty from the windows of the
house, and that was all the use she ever was to F. M., who, after
keeping her for two seasons, sold her for less money than he paid for
the cables he furnished her with. She never was of any use to any one
but the skipper and “John of the Yacht,” who both saved money enough out
of their wages during the time she was in service to take them out to
Australia, where they did well. One lesson I learnt from her, and that
was, that no yacht is of the least use in those parts that is not a
steamer; then one is most useful. Indeed, if I had the world to begin
over again, and had a shooting in one of those far-off regions, I should
never bother myself with a land establishment, but make my ship my home,
keeping my dogs on shore.
I remained three seasons
at Aline, passing my time most pleasantly; but certainly, at that time,
though there was ground,, there was not game enough for three guns. The
ground got up slowly to be what it was when F. M. performed his great
feat of killing one hundred brace of grouse to his own gun in one day.
It was not all at once that the improvements made began to tell. There
was then neither road nor path across the Park, and really the stiff
walks across the hills there, either for fishing or shooting
purposes—for each day’s sport there necessitated an expedition entailing
crossing Loch Seaforth—were not repaid by the sport obtained. F. M. had
not then made a good walking-path for nearly four miles up to Benmore,
which greatly facilitated operations there; neither had he so increased
the size of the house at Aline, and so improved it in every way, that it
became a much more comfortable residence.
At that time, too, if
ever man was insane on the subject of fishing, I was, and Aline did not
afford me the salmon fishing I pined for; therefore, in 1852, I took
Soval for myself, because it then possessed two salmon rivers. I did
not, however, remove there till 1853, and I have often wondered how my
legs carried me through that same year, 1852.
One of these two salmon
rivers, the Laxay, was about twelve miles off; but I did not much care
for it, as, till doctored by me afterwards with artificial spates, it
was little worth. The other river, the Blackwater, was distant, I should
say, fifteen miles good—seven along the road, and then eight across the
muir—perhaps more, a strong walk, with a ford or two to cross, that in
good fishing weather was not low. I used to start early and walk to it,
fish all day, and go on to sleep at the Callernish Inn, three miles off,
and reverse this home the next day. Then, also, I stretched my legs, in
order that they might not stiffen, backwards and forwards, between our
place and the Harris lochs, that were some seven or eight miles off—a
stiff walk, btit it was worth it; for what lochs they were ! Loch Scoost,
with its high peak above you, that yon almost feared to walk under lest
it should fall and crush you ; Loch Yosimit, with its rocks and little
islands, the grandest loch I ever threw line in; and Loch Ulavat, with
its overlapping eagle’s cliff and cavern; and all three with such awful
squalls that you had hard work to hold on, particularly if standing on a
rock up to your knees in water, fighting a salmon, or two big sea-trout
on at the same time.
Oh, the happy, glorious
days I passed in that fairyland of fishing among the Harris lochs! No
wonder the legs have felt and suffered for it, and are stiff and feeble
now, and call out, “Hold! enough,” as I stumble, and blunder, and potter
over fallows and stubbles. But the dog has had his day, and, if he is
used up, you cannot take his day back from him, and he will still whine
and dream over it—ay, and more than that, if I visit those parts again,
which I hope to do, I’ll put a charge on the old legs, and they shall
carry me, God willing, another season yet into those fine glens.
A curious thing happened
on one of those long walks. I was returning from Loch Yosimit, where I
had been fishing one very hot day, and narrowly escaped drowning, the
boat I was in choosing to fill with water and topple over; and no
wonder, as her seams had been opened by the sun. Fortunately, she chose
the immediate vicinity of a little island for this exploit, so my gillie
and I scrambled on to it, none the worse, and not even wetting our
luncheon, which we discussed on it, and then sorted our boat, which held
water better after submersion. I was returning home, when I lost my
prospect (Scotch name for telescope) —without which I never stirred—out
of its case. I retraced my steps, but it was past our finding. I was
sore vexed, for it had been my father’s, and was knocked out of his hand
at ^the Battle of Bylau by the bursting of a shell, which killed his
horse, but did no further damage to him than a slight scratch on the
nose. I tried every means of recovering it in vain. At last it was
found, nearly two years after, by one of Burnaby’s sappers—strange to
say, none the worse after cleaning, though it had been out in the open,
caseless, for two winters; and I have it still, and a very good clear
glass it remains.
When in these diggings I
learnt, or rather perfected, a lesson on dogs and their ways, that I had
studied a good deal before; and I shall say a little about that lesson
here, more particularly as public attention has lately been called to it
in the Field by the discussion between W. O. and “Idstone,” as to the
point of—in broad terms—breaking dogs to what they are wanted for. I
have always held W. C.’s opinion. If you want a grouse dog, break him on
grouse; a partridge dog, on partridges ; a snipe dog, on snipe; but I
think you want more than this. You must break a dog according to the
country you shoot in, for here what is sauce for the goose is not sauce
for the gander.
For the first year or two
that I was at Aline, F. M.—than whom no better sportsman and shot at
everything exists in Europe—used the same team of dogs he had brought
from the south. They were an excellent lot of pointers, very well bred,
very handsome, and perfectly broken. I had shot over them on the
Yorkshire moors, and in the border counties of Scotland, and they were
perfection. In the Lews the whole lot were not worth five shillings.
They quartered their ground in the most scientific manner; but they
might have quartered it to all eternity and done no good. Their range
was not high enough; they were not wild enough for ground on which there
was then but little to find, and the poor animals gave up the thing in
despair. F. M. soon found out this, saw it would not do, sent his
pointers back to England, where they were as good as ever, and took to
setters and a different style of breaking. I did the same, though I
always kept one or two of my old pointer blood. It was poor “old Tom’s”
first season then, and he was early trained to gallop hard and range
wide for his game, which I think the pointer w~ith a cross of foxhound
in his blood will do better, more judgmatically,—ay, and longer,—than
any setter I ever saw. I then, for the remaining time I spent in that
country, took special care not to break my dogs there as I would for
English, or Perthshire, Aberdeenshire, or other lower Scotch moor
ground; in fact, not to overbreak them. Obedience, of course; perfect
stanchness, backing, down-charging; but I left their range alone. With
dogs that have to gallop miles, perhaps, before they come on
grouse—which in that country are most migratory in their habits —if you
kept drawing your parallel lines you would make very small progress
indeed. Therefore, when I saw my dogs, on whom I could perfectly rely,
making their casts, I never played on the flageolet to them, but let
them make it, and well was I repaid for the confidence placed in them.
True, you could not let the grass grow under your feet; but they stood
for ever, you got to them at last, and birds generally lie well in those
northern regions. R. M., who shot with me my last season of the Lews, as
he did the first, and who knows a dog as well as most men, did not like
their desperate range at first, and exclaimed, “Where are they going
to?” But he came to, and owned it was the proper breaking for those
parts.
I remember well, one fine
evening, poor old “Whack/3 a pointer, was let off, and he took one of
those sweeps that no dog I ever saw could surpass. The beat was a large
flat, running down to a loch, round by its side to a river, along its
banks, and then up to the higher grounds above it. I had taken up a
position where I could watch his movements. He scoured the plain, tried
the lake sides, down by the river to the pools, and swept by me up the
glen to the hill tops. I should be afraid to say what was the distance
Whack traversed in that wonderful cast, but it was miles. Back came the
old dog down the glen to me. “ Got them at last, master, but I have had
a hard gallop for it. Let me fetch my wind—a sup of water—and now come
along, and we’ll have a good evening’s sport.’3 And so we had. The good
old dog had at last found the line of birds —the flat at the head of the
burn—he took us to them, and we were well rewarded. Now, with ordinary
ranging dogs this never could have been done; yet this very same Whack,
the first time I took him out in a civilised country, in Yorkshire,
where there were clouds of unapproachable grouse in a small compass, was
useless. In about half an hour he came to me, and said, “ I’m no use
here; I don’t understand this, and if you please I’ll keep at heel.” And
so he did; and when at last, by a fluke, I or some one else killed a
grouse, he retrieved it, for he is a perfect retriever of winged game.
After laying it carefully at my feet, and turning it over and over in
every direction, and smelling it, he looked up and said, “I believe it
is a gronse, but it is not like ours.” The next day he trotted before me
like a turnspit, and became used to the ways of those parts; but I do
not think we either of us very much cared for them. I am convinced from
all I have seen—and I have watched dog-breaking very carefully since I
was a boy of fifteen, both in Great Britain and Ireland, and abroad—that
W. 0. is right, and that you should break your dogs according to your
game and your country. Your in-ground, your well-stocked moor, or
partridge ground, will produce a more perfect machine ; but it is your
wild, not overstocked country, that forms the beau ideal of what the
setter or pointer should be—speed, nose, pluck, and energy, combined
with perfect stanchness, and that wonderful instinct or reasoning
faculty which the dog possesses.
For developing these
qualities I know no country like the Lews; and as I sit and look at
Whack, and call back to memory our last evening on its hills together,
poor Morris’s old song haunts me. It runs, I believe,—
“And when the lesson
strikes my head,
My weary heart grows cold.” |