AND so it’s all over;
and, like the M’G-regor, I am landless — or, rather, shooting-quarterless.
I must bid adieu to the home of twenty years, to seek another, and begin
the world again—old, worn out almost, but tough still.
They might as well have
let me linger out the two or three years the old legs would have carried
me still, and left me and my doggies in peace. But that was not to be. I
had spent years in turning a bad shooting into a good one; I had tried
to civilise, as much as in my power lay, the district in which I lived.
I was not hated by the surrounding inhabitants. But, then, I could not
afford the vastly increased rent demanded for my own creation; and so I
vacated my quarters for some more opulent successor. And sorrowful
indeed was my departure, and the parting with the friends of those twenty
years. The companions of the wild sports of those outlandish countries
become your friends and associates; and you can venture to make them so,
for the Highlander is a gentleman at heart, and never forgets his
respect for you, so long as you respect yourself. Besides this, if you
have ever killed a stag, a salmon, or an otter in his company, you stand
well with him for the rest of your days. There were also other
remembrances that bound us much to one another, which, though nothing to
the world, were much to ourselves. As, then, keepers, and stalkers, and gillies wrung my hand as we drank the parting “morning” together, I felt
there was truth in that grasp—nay, even in the tear that stood in the
eye of some, and certainly in my own. It was agony, I own, to leave that
desolate home; and when I reached the hill-top, from 'which I caught the
first glimpse of that long-loved cottage, like the Highland woman, I sat
me down and cried. But, as I said, it is over; and what is to be done
through the long dreary days, now that I can no longer live upon the
hopes and prospects of my annual migration to my wild home? I will try
and recollect the past, and solace myself with giving some of its
.reminiscences, collected from notes, and journals, and game-books kept
during some twenty shooting seasons passed there. They will be truthful,
for it is a land with too many charms, not only for my perhaps too
partial recollection, but for every true sportsman, not to be able to
bear criticism and truth; and those only who do not or cannot appreciate
its true worth, will feel any soreness at the remarks I may at times
make upon its failings.
My record, I fear will be
dull, stale, and unprofitable; for, my occupation having gone, the
heart to write has gone with it. And why is it that I love that far-off
land so much? Certes, not for its beauty; for of all the dismal, dreary
countries that man ventures to traverse, commend me to a great part of
the Lews. I do not think that, if I wished to pick a monotonous drive, I
could find anything to surpass that from the Butt of Lews through
Stornoway, and for some distance on towards Harris. When the different
hills of the Park, of Uig, and of Harris begin to open, the country
gradually becomes more mountainous and beautiful. But all the northern
portion of the island is one succession of peat, hags, and moss, studded
with innumerable freshwater lochs. Of course, Lews being an island, or
rather peninsula, you have always in the sea, when you see it, a noble
feature; and therefore the western coast, with the broad Atlantic
breaking on it, is a sight to see. The Minch, too, when the weather is
fine and you can see the mainland hills, is beautiful.
But speaking of the
interior portion of the northern part of the island, it presents no fine
features, though you often get from it striking views of the outlines of
the distant hills. My shooting-lodge was about seven miles from the
commencement of the hills, and a more dismal, dreary little place you
would never wish to behold. I do not think you would have found many
people to live in it when first I took it. There was sorry accommodation
for the quality, scarcely any far servants. It was under a hill, and it
looked out on the peat stacks only, which were ranged where they were
cut in the peat bog; for, with the greatest possible ingenuity, the
builder of the mansion had managed that from no window except the
skylight at the top of the house could you contrive to get even a
glimpse of a rather pretty loch close by. All that separated you from
the peat stacks was the high road to Harris. Certainly, then, our
situation was not picturesque; and yet, lover of beautiful scenery as I
am, and having at times sojourned in very lovely spots (once for years
at the head of the upper lake of Killarney—and show me anything much
fairer than Grheramene), I would rather own that little cottage on the
roadside looking out on the peat-stacks, and live and die there, than
pass my life on the Lake of Geneva, somewhere near Chillon, among a
constant succession of fine sunsets. But then there is no accounting for
tastes, and tastes are formed in odd ways. It is, however, time that I
should get on to narrate how it was that I ever got to this queer little
place.
I was sitting one morning
in June, 1850, at Borthwick Brae with F. M. and R. M., when Snowie’s
list of shootings came in. Among the advertisements was one of some
shooting in the Lews and in Harris. Long, long ago my old friend, the
late Sir Ronald Ferguson, a grand old soldier and a first-rate
sportsman, recommended me to go and try those parts, as being alone
compatible with my pocket and my views of boundless space to roam over.
I had often tried to get those two men, F. M. and R. M., to join and
take some country in those far Hebrides, but I was perpetually laughed
at for talking about what did not exist, and answered with the slang of
the day about imaginary things, “which it is Harris.” Throwing the paper
over to F., I exclaimed, “Now will you believe?—Look thereI” And lo!
there were three shootings in the Lews advertised (which, with Harris,
forms that island dignified with the name of the Long Island), with a
reference for further information to a gentleman in Edinburgh. The
spaces seemed large, the rents small. Accordingly, instanter the phaeton
was ordered to the door; to the nearest station we drove, and were in
Edinburgh in time to find our gentleman at home. He was perfectly fair.
“You had better go and judge for yourselves. If you expect to get
Highland grouse-shootings, you won’t. If you can walk, you may kill some
few brace daily. You will get plenty of stalking, but the deer do not
run large, and their heads are small, and might be stolen out of the
mainland heads and not missed. You are not to expect fine Highland
streams and large salmon. You will only find small streams, but plenty
of fish in them, though not large. But, as I said, go and judge for
yourselves. The next steamer for Stornoway sails on Thursday, and if you
can get down to Glasgow to-morrow you will catch the Mary Jane, and get
to Stornoway on Saturday. Stay there a week, fish as much as you like,
and make any inquiries you please. Look at our game-books and judge for
yourselves; but if you take anything there and afterwards don’t like it,
don’t say you were done.” Accordingly we took that straightforward
gentleman’s advice; and I have often and often thought of his words when
experience taught how perfectly accurate they were. We went back home
for a few traps and our fishing-rods, and started for Glasgow the next
morning, whence we sailed in the Mary Jam northward, ho!
Reader, are you fond of
the sea? Do you love dancing in a cockle-shell over the blue sea-lochs
of the north-western coast of Scotland? If so, sail or steam from
Dumbarton to Stornoway ; and if you have the steamer a good deal to
yourself, without too many passengers— children in particular—without
too many sheep or cattle, or any other incumbrance, and with fine
weather (all things of not very frequent occurrence), if you do not
enjoy it, stop at Glasgow the rest of your life. Down the Clyde by Arran,
and round the Mull of Cantire, with a strong tide and half a gale of
wind meeting each other; and across to Islay, and then up the Sound of
Jura, and so on to Oban; then through the sound of dark Mull, into quiet
Tobermory, round Ardnamurcan Point with a good south-wester and the
Atlantic tumbling in upon you, to Egg and Rum. Fetch up at Armadale, and
look into the sea-loch opposite to you, running up into the mainland.
Then onward up the Narrows of Skye, diverging now and then into some of
those sea lochs on the mainland side of your course, amongst the most
beautiful—if not the most beautiful— scenery in Europe. Then proceed,
softly rippling your way round those glorious Chucullin Hills that, as
you pass, ever assume some fresh fantastic grouping, until you reach
that safest harbour of refuge, Portree, into which I have at times been
pitched by the most fearful of squalls. There dine, fortify yourself
with a strong sneaker of good cold whisky-and-water, aiblins two, light
your pipe, and then across the Minch to fair, soft Gairloch; round into
Ullapool and other lochs along the coast; then into Loch Inver the
magnificent; and if you are not satisfied with it, and the Sugar-loaf
Mountain, and the Assynt Hills in the distance, you are a man hard to
please. Then set your head straight for the Long Island, and tumble
across the Minch again with a good mild northeaster, if there is such a
thing, into Stornoway; and having taken a look at its quiet harbour and
its nice white-looking amphitheatre of a town, turn in; and if, as I
said before, you are not satisfied with what you have seen, and also
with visions of salmon and sea-trout, and deer and grouse, as you lie
your head on your pillow, go home to your friends at once, and never
again venture to pollute the fair North with your presence. |