Whoever is tired of
railways, tramways, telegraphs, the electric light, and all the
artificial means of bothering people who wish quietness; let him visit
Waterside, a village lying ajxrnt two miles E.S.E. of Kirkintilloch,
near the road leading to Gartshore. We warn him, however, in case he may
choose to drive there in his carriage and pair, that he need not
contemplate flying through the place like a meteor, and going right on.
That is too fast for Waterside ; any one driving in must turn round and
drive out again the way he came.
Pedestrianism suits
Waterside better, and a footpath leaves the main road at Merkland, which
makes the journey from Kirkintilloch somewhat shorter; and from Lenzie
the village pan be reached by the footpath and iron bridge across thef
Bothlin.
Merkland is the scene of
the life and death of the poet, David Gray.
Immediately on leaving
the main road, and entering the footpath is a building like , a very
small chapel, neatly built of substantial square stones ; this is a
burying place or sepulchre built by the late Mr. Thomson of Merkland, in
which. his own remains, and those of several of his relations—including
Rev, Dr. Blakely—are interred. The building bears date 1840. It is built
on the side of a hill, and in consequence of part of the foundation
giving way, it has had to be fastened together by two iron bars.
Waterside
The walk from this to
Waterside along the bank of the Luggie is simply charming, the only
feeling being that it is too short. On the opposite side of the river
the bank is higher, and the ancient mill of Duntiblae or Drum-teblay—which
has been repeatedly referred to—appears in sight It was long occupied as
a “spade forge” by the late Mr. Andrew Hill, who here made spades and
shovels of unequalled quality, which were always in great demand over
the West of Scotland. His successor, Mr. John Goodwin, still carries on
the manufacture in the old name, and we are informed keeps up the good
old established reputation. The old mill was originally a meal mill,1
and was burnt about fifty years ago—Mr. Forrest being then miller— when
a storey was taken off the height of the walls, and such was the
excellency of the workmanship, that the lime was more difficult to
unloose than the stones. Immediately above the old mill are the remains
of a distillery, and beyond that, at the dam across the stream, is
another mill bearing date 1779, originally a lint mill, but now
converted into a forge, being an auxiliary of the old mill.
The dam intersects the
river opposite the village, and was built in very ancient times to
supply the old mill. It has the effect of giving a beautiful water-fall.
The village of Waterside
is picturesquely situated on the right bank of the river, with only the
public road intervening, and the whole scene is uncommonly beautiful.
The houses here are regularly built and slated, and a substantial
building of two storeys bears the inscription :— “Waterside Subscription
School, erected May 24th, 1839. Wm. Aitken & Co., contractors.” It is
now superseded by the Board School, and is used as a public hall. The
rest of the village is quaint and peculiar, being the production of a
former age, and untouched by the modern spirit of improvement. The
houses, in some places, appear as if they had been dancing the polka,
and retained their positions when the music stopped. Some have their
fronts square to the road, some the gable, and others one corner. The
outhouses in some cases front the road, having apparently moved round
from the back. Many of the houses have thatched roofs, with quaint
gables and windows, and a growing crop amongst the roof-straw. Slates
have supplanted thatch altogether in a goodly number, and others have
both slates and thatch in particoloured pattern.
There are no fluctuations
in this interesting place, not even in population, which in 1871 was
426; in 1881, 420; and 1891, 446.
The inhabitants rule
their own affairs, undisturbed by Provost, Magistrates, Dean of Guild,
or Commissioners, and have no local taxes. Being in the county of
Dumbarton, they are subject to visits from the county police, and
inspectors of weights and measures; otherwise they have been left in
peaceful tranquility. The advent of the county council, however, is
about to bring them into contact with the outside world. Water has
hitherto been supplied by wells pretty numerously sunk, and from the
river Luggie; although that beautiful stream is now too much polluted to
be useful for any domestic purpose. The county council have determined
that the water supply is inadequate for the purposes of health, and have
arranged with the Commissioners of Kirkintilloch to furnish water; so
that Waterside will shortly feel the effects of sanitary legislation,
and its accompaniment of taxation.
The community appears to
have had its origin in the art of weaving, being up till a recent period
almost wholly composed of members of that craft; and from their isolated
position, resemble the inhabitants of a Highland glen of last century,
where the whole clan lived in undisturbed solitude and security. The
Waterside people are not all of one surname, of course, but the surnames
are few in proportion to the number of bearers; and the same Christian
and surname are often borne by three, four or more individuals. As a
matter of necessity, therefore, nicknames are used as distinguishing
epithets, such as “Elder John,” “Deacon Stirling,” “Mason Will,” “Mucrae
Davy,” “Kaury” (left-handed), etc., on the same principle as Dandie
Dinmont called his terriers:—“Auld Pepper and Auld Mustard, and young
Pepper and young Mustard, and little Pepper and little Mustard.” A
stranger, therefore, seeking a person whose proper name is only known to
him, is often sorely puzzled; and a new postman requires about a week to
learn the intricacies of the navigation.
As may be supposed, the
Waterside folk are essentially clannish, and intermarriage amongst their
own community is frequent: some think this has had a detrimental effect,
but the village has the reputation of being a healthy one, and the
proportion of aged people is large.
Neither a hotel,
public-house nor prison exists in Waterside, and it is time that Sir
Wilfrid Lawson knew this—it would cheer his heart. Not that we mean to
give out that all the inhabitants are teetotallers, for that we do not
know; and we rather think that some of them will agree with the “Bard of
Chapel Green,” who said:—
“A wee drap in the corner
o’ a press,
Keeps in the credit when a hoose is bare,
A visitor returns wi4 noble grace,
After twa biddens, to a wee drap mair.”
We have said that the
people are clannish, and along with that Scottish characteristic is
their equally Scottish feeling of sturdy independence. As a community or
as individuals they will “tak’ dunts frae naebody.”
This truth found the late
Mr. Thomson of Merkland to his cost. The foot-path leading along Luggie-side
to the village—which we have described—was on his lands, and has existed
from time immemorial. Mr. Thomson, however, seems to have fretted at the
thoroughfare, and resolved to divert the traffic into a different
channel. He first consulted the neighbouring proprietors, who made no
objection ; and then made a new footpath along the turnpike road,
reaching the village from a different point; his neighbours again
meeting and declaring their satisfaction with the new road, and agreeing
that the ancient foot-path should be closed. Accordingly it was shut up
by a fence being erected across it, and hand-bills pasted up warning
pedestrians against trespass.
The Waterside people, who
had never been consulted in the matter—although they were the parties
most deeply interested—were naturally indignant, and having met
together, marched in a body to the obnoxious fence, and tore it up,
tearing also the hand-bills down.
Mr. Thomson, however, was
not to be baffled, and speedily erected another and much stronger fence,
fortified by a wide and deep ditch. The Waterside men, however— whose
disposition Mr. Thomson seems not to have known— again held a meeting;
and as the war was becoming hotter, their combative spirit rose in
proportion. They soon turned out in a body, and, preceded by their band
of music, marched to the seat of war. It is not recorded what tune was
played on the occasion, but we should think it must have been “Hey
tuttie, taittie,” as played by the Scots at Bannockburn, or, possibly,
“Hey! Johnnie Cope.” The engagement, however, was successful for the
Waterside heroes, as they soon demolished the strong fence, and filled
up the ditch. Mr. Thomson—who might represent King Edward on the
occasion—standing on the top of the hill, watch in hand, eyeing the
whole proceedings. Whether he wished to ascertain the time it took to
destroy his defences is not known, but he had several friends with him
as witnesses of the assault. Three of the assailants were soon after
summoned to the court at Kirkintilloch, and fined.
What were the poor
weavers of Waterside to do now? How could they fight against a rich
landed proprietor like Mr. Thomson of Merkland? Rob Roy said “a willing
hand never lacked weapon,” and so it turned out on this occasion. An
inhabitant of Waterside had a friend in Kilsyth, an intelligent man, who
“kent a heap,” and forthwith he was despatched to consult the man of
wisdom.
After hearing a detailed
account of the whole proceedings, the Kilsyth gentleman advised his
friend to consult a lawyer in Edinburgh, whose name he gave, and who
would likely take up the case on spec, if he found it hopeful. This was
accordingly done, and the gentleman learned in the law, after visiting
Waterside, and considering the whole case, agreed to prosecute it on his
own responsibility.
Accordingly a summons was
served on Mr. Thomson, in name of Malcolm Pollok, John Pickens, and John
Shaw. The case being purely one of prescriptive right, no witnesses were
required, and it was speedily decided in the Outer House of the Court of
Session, in favour of the pursuers. Mr. Thomson was not satisfied
however, but waited till the last day for lodging an appeal, which he
did, to the Inner House, which again gave a decision against him.
Both roads remain open
till this day, so that Waterside gained on all points. A curious legal
opinion was given after the case was settled, viz., that if Mr. Thomson
could have proved that he had spent sixpence in repairing the old
footpath the decision might have been different.
The inhabitants of
Waterside also fought a tough contest with the Barony Parochial Board,
to preserve their right of way to Lenzie, but both parties came to an
agreement to substitute the present road for the old one. The new road
is carried over the Bothlin by a handsome iron bridge, from which a view
of the surrounding scenery is unequalled.
Another matter notable in
the history of Waterside is the life and death of the gas work.
At a time when the
weaving trade was good, a movement was made to have a gas work, and a
meeting of about a dozen of the principal inhahitants was held, when it
was resolved to erect a work. Subscriptions for £20 were received, and a
number of shares issued at £1 each, the balance required being borrowed.
The work was erected, pipes laid throughout the village, and for some
years everything seemed to work smoothly, a dividend of 5 per cent,
being regularly paid on the capital. By and by, however, times of
adversity came—paraffin oil was coming into use, and some preferred it
to gas, and cut off their gas connection. Dark rumours ran of people
burning gas and paying nothing; the dividends ceased, and the meetings
became stormy and recriminative. There was no supervision of the works
or pipes, the only official being the man who made the gas at 12s. per
week; and at this crisis he had the boldness to apply to the chairman of
directors or “preses,” as he was called, for a rise of wages. The preses
was so astounded at the demand in the circumstances that he flatly
refused an advance, and said he would rather do the work himself. On
consulting his brother directors, they applauded his noble resolution,
and thanked him for his patriotic spirit; and he forthwith commenced his
self-imposed duties.
As he knew nothing
whatever of making gas, he got a friend—who had been a year at the
occupation—to come for a few days and instruct him. Very soon after he
was left by himself, however, whether from the damper being up when he
supposed it was down, or from some other cause inexplicable, the retort
was partially melted, and had to be replaced. In a short time the new
retort was found to be twisted, and in despair the preses went to his
co-directors, and intimated his wish to give up his job. They, however,
were in no way dissatisfied, and not only encouraged him to go on, but
advanced his wages on the spot to 15s. per week. Another new retort
having been built in, he proceeded with his operations, but ere long was
dismayed to find a crack in it. He at once summoned a friend to consult
with him, and devise what should be done, who advised him “to fire up
well, and perhaps the crack would close again.”
What between leakage at
the retort, and leakage all along the line, the gas work did not live
long. It was sold off, pipes and all, and the shareholders not only lost
their £i shares, but had to pay about 6s. additional. The only things
that now mark its former existence are the chimney stalk, and the gas
pipe carried on wood across the river to Duntiblae forge, which still
remains, like the belfry at the Old Aisle to mark what has been.
Our readers must not
infer that the inhabitants of Waterside are a turbulent community,
although they inherit the strongly-marked characteristics of the
Scottish race of fifty years ago. They are tenacious of their rights,
but have always been an intelligent and orderly people, and are all, or
nearly all, members of the various churches in Kirkintilloch. Weaving
has been their staple occupation in the past, and nowhere could
operatives be trusted to turn out better work; and as the wives
generally carried the finished webs to the manufacturers in
Kirkintilloch, it was a pleasant sight to see them with snow-white caps,
carrying the goods carefully wrapped in pure white sheets. This is now
more rare, as weaving has become a sorry occupation, and all the young
men naturally seek employment at the various collieries and public works
in the neighbourhood.
The educational wants of
the village are well supplied by Gartconner School in the immediate
vicinity.
One very common name in
Waterside, “Stirling,” has a romantic origin.
The clan MacGregor were
despoiled of much of their lands in the sixteenth century by the Earls
of Argyle and Breadalbane, who managed to get them engrossed in
charters, which they easily obtained from the Crown, and thus
constituted a legal right in their own favour without regard to justice.
The MacGregors naturally resented this, and were not slow to retaliate
with the sword, and a feud began which lasted for about a hundred years,
the MacGregors becoming more and more desperate and ferocious. The clan
had also a long-standing quarrel with the Colquhouns of Luss, and a
battle was fought at Glenfruin, in which the MacGregors, although
greatly outnumbered, were victorious. A party of students, who were
merely spectators, were said to have been all killed by a gigantic
MacGregor after the battle, and this so roused the Government that an
act of the Privy Council was passed, dated 3rd April, 1603, by which the
name “MacGregor” was expressly abolished.
Three of the clan had
been living in Stirling, and came to Waterside to take up a permanent
abode. They called themselves “Stirling,” no doubt on the principle that
one name is as good as another, and it was suggested by the town they
had just left. One of these men got quarters at Muckcroft, and the other
two settled down on the little hill immediately to the south-east of the
present village of Waterside., Notwithstanding the bad name which the
clan of their origin had acquired for turbulence—but which there is
little doubt was originally due to oppression, which drives wise men
mad—the whole three 4‘ Stirlings ” proved to be quiet and industrious
men. A disciple of Darwin might, however, find traces of their
characteristics in their descendants.
Waterside has always
produced noted curlers. The first club was formed in 1820, by William
Jamieson, then the miller of Duntiblae, who was president \ and the
other members, so far as can be gathered from the memories of the oldest
inhabitants, were George Jarvie, a blacksmith; and Andrew, John,
William, and David Stirling; not necessarily brothers or cousins,
although all four bearing the same surname.
They had every facility
for perfecting themselves in the game, as the president made a pond on
the mill-lands adjacent to their homes, while time was accounted of
little value; the result being that during hard frost they were always
at it—one winter, in fact, they curled every week-day for six weeks in
succession. The weavers, however, generally worked at their occupation
from dusk till twelve each night, and devoted daylight to the roaring
game—at that period they could earn 2s. to 2s. 6d. in six or seven
hours.
It is not to be supposed
that the wives would look calmly on while their husbands were spending
so much time at play instead of work, and on one occasion the women held
a meeting to devise measures to amend such an unsatisfactory state of
affairs. The result of their deliberations was, to go out over-night,
and plentifully besprinkle the ice with salt, and next day was worse
than a thaw for the curlers, who had to stay at home.
The smith’s wife was
remonstrating with her husband one morning for spending so much time
away from his work, he being determined on another day’s curling. He put
forward as an excuse that iron could not be worked during frost, and she
being sceptical of this, he took her into the smithy, heated a piece of
cast iron in the fire, and began to hammer it, when it flew into pieces.
This ocular demonstration enabled the smith to carry out his intention.
The old Borderers who
lived by cattle-stealing got a strong hint from the lady of the mansion,
when her larder was becoming bare, by her presenting at dinner a covered
dish which contained only a pair of spurs. The wife of a Waterside
weaver gave her husband a hint in the same vein. He came home one night
very hungry after a day’s curling. She had the table spread and the pot
boiling briskly, but to his surprise she lifted out of it, not a piece
of beef or mutton but a curling-stone, and gravely placed it before him.
The president must have
been as great a wag as the smith, although lamentably unscrupulous. A
decent woman, a neighbour of his, had set a hen on a valuable lot of
game-fowl eggs which she had procured. The president quietly abstracted
the eggs and substituted duck eggs in their room. In due time the eggs
were hatched, and the president went to see the “chickens,” He ventured
the remark, “Nannie, they’ve surely gey braid nebs?” Nannie answered,
“Braid or no’ braid, they’re the rale game.”
A tinker called on him
one day with a fine young bull-dog. Having duly admired it, he told the
tinker that the dog had only one fault—his tail was too long, and
advised him to cut an inch off. The tinker agreed with this, and asked
him if he would do it while he held the dog. He declined this, however,
but offered to hold the animal while the tinker himself performed the
operation with an axe. All being ready, and the axe poised to give the
blow, the president watched the decisive moment, and had the cruelty to
push in the dog’s body, which was nearly cut in two by the blow. The
president at once ran out of the door, and not a moment too soon, as the
tinker, without hesitation, flung the axe at him.
William Stirling, known
as “Muckcroft,” was the best curler of his day about Waterside, and an
equally noted curler of that period was James Lowrie, mason, Kilsyth,
who is still remembered by many. At length the two champions met and
played a match, when “Muckcroft,’’ being victorious, said to his
opponent, “I’ve ta’en the brush frae the tod the day.”
At a match between
Waterside and Campsie Clubs William Stirling had the last shot to play;
his opponents had a stone on the tee, partially guarded by two others,
with only a narrow port between ; he sent his stone with such force and
unerring aim that it brushed aside the two guards, and split the stone
lying on the tee into pieces.
The original or “Old
Club” joined the Royal Caledonian Curling Club in 1853, and in 1857,
there being forty-two members, a new or “junior” club was formed, which
existed till 1887, when there were so few curlers that it was resolved
to amalgamate the two clubs. The old club won eleven district medals,
one provincial medal, and three parish trophies, viz.:—a silver cup
presented by Bailie Wallace, a gold locket presented by J. W. Burns,
Esq. of Kilmahew, and a valuable gold medal presented by Sir Archibald
Orr Ewing, Bart., M.P. for the county.
The junior club won ten
royal district medals and one provincial. Since the two clubs
amalgamated they have won three royal medals.
The fox is called “Todlowrie."
In “The Fortunes of Nigel,” King James calls on Ritchie Moniplies, who
was behind the arras, “Todlowrie, come out o’ your den.’* |