To return now to our
account of Loch Kinnord. The lordship of Aboyne, with the lands
pertaining thereto, including the Castle of Kinnord, came, as above
shown, into possession of Alexander Gordon, 1st Earl of Huntly,
through his marriage with Lady Jane Keith; but there being no issue
of this marriage, they would naturally have reverted to the family
of the Earls Marischal, had the charter, or, as we should say the
marriage contract, by which they were conveyed, not settled the
succession in the family of Gordon. A charter, in confirmation of
the above, is written in Latin, the literal translation of which is
as follows :—"To Alexander, Earl of Huntly, and the descendants and
heirs between said Alexander and Elizabeth (Crichton), Countess of
Huntly (his second wife), born, or to be born; whom failing, to the
true, legitimate, and nearest heirs whomsoever of the said
Alexander, All and whole the lands of Cluny, Tulch (Tullich), Abyn,
Glentanyr, and Glenmuck."It
was about this time (1448) that the Earl of Huntly transferred the
principal seat of the family from Gordon in Berwickshire to
Strathbogie in Aberdeenshire ; but it was many years before the
family ceased to reside occasionally on their Border estates. Soon
after taking up his residence at the Castle of Strathbogie, the Earl
directed his attention to the improvement of his recently acquired
Deeside property, which, having been long in the hands of
non-resident owners, had fallen into considerable decay. The
fortalice of Aboyne, in especial, which had remained untenanted
since the last of the Bissets was there, had become uninhabitable;
and the fortress of Loch Kinnord, though less decayed, stood much in
need of repairs. The latter he rebuilt, not so much as a stronghold
as a hunting-seat; and here he generally took up his residence when
he visited Deeside. In this condition, serving the purposes of
pleasure and the chase, the Castle of Loch Kinnord remained for the
rest of the 15th century. [About the close of the 15th century,
Elizabeth Sutherland married Adam Gordon, second son of the second
Earl of Huntly, who then assigned to them the barony of Aboyne for
their maintenance; but the fortalice was in so bad a state of
repair, that instead of living there they took up their residence at
"Ferrack" (Ferrar), where they had a house fitted up for their
accommodation. Here they lived and brought up their family, and here
was born to them Alexander, 1st Earl of Sutherland, of the name of
Gordon. So great was their attachment to their Deeside residence at
Ferrar, that even after the Countess was "infeoffed " (30th June
1515) in the Earldom of Sutherland—one of the richest in the north—
she and her husband with their two surviving children, Alexander,
Master of Sutherland, and John of "Tillichowdie" (their youngest
son, Adam, on whom the barony of Aboyne had been settled, having
fallen in the Battle of Pinkie without legitimate offspring)
continued to reside there till their death. Of this worthy couple,
the ancestors of a noble and illustrious line, their
great-great-grandson, Sir Robert Gordon, the historian of the house
of Sutherland, has left the following record :—"Elizabeth, Countess
of Sutherland, a lady of great judgment, and great modesty, died
September 1535, in Aboyne and was buried there. Her husband Adam,
Earl of Sutherland (by courtesy), a very provident, valiant, and
wise man, died at Ferrack, in Aboyne, 17th March, 1537, and was
buried beside the Countess." All this while the Earl of Huntly,
brother of the Countess of Sutherland, had his summer residence in
the neighbouring Castle of JJoch Kinnord.]
The family papers show that several
important transactions took place here during this period. Some
vassals attended the Earl to receive renewal of their feudal
charters. Among others, Lauchlan Mackintosh, of Galowne, chief of
the clan, sought an interview with his Lordship at "Lochteanmor," in
the summer of 1497, to grant his bond of manrent, and take the oath
of feudal vassalage.
Seven years after this, in the
lifetime of Alexander, third Earl of Huntly, the Castle of Loch
Kinnord was destined to receive a royal visit under peculiar and
rather romantic circumstances. James IV.,
one of the bravest and best beloved of the kings of the Stuart
dynasty, was the soul of chivalry—a disposition which sometimes led
him into rather Quixotic adventures, and at last proved his ruin. On
one occasion, in the year 1504, some conversation having arisen
between the King and his courtiers regarding his frequent visits to
the shrine of Saint Duthoc in Tain, James undertook, whether as a
bet or not is not quite evident, to accomplish the journey, attended
only by a chamberlain and squire, for what seemed to them an
incredibly small sum of money. It is strange that this freak should
have furnished us with one of the clearest glimpses we have of
Scottish life and manners at that period; but so it is. Strict
accounts had to be kept of every item of expenditure, that it might
be seen whether the King had really accomplished what he had
undertaken; and these accounts have been preserved. On his journey
north he lodged in the Castle of Kinnord on the night of the 4th
October, 1504, and paid for everything he received. To Jacob
Edmanistown he paid next morning for "tursing (setting in order) the
kingis doggis there, the sum of 14s.;" and to a man for "prefing the
Don (wading before the king through the river to show that it was
fordable), 5s." It seems his Majesty was well satisfied with the
entertainment he had received at the Castle of Loch Kinnord, for on
his return from the north in the following month, he again took up
his quarters there; and paid to the boatman, for his trouble with
him, 14s., and to Peter Crechtoun the sum of 5s., which "he gaifbe
the kingis command to ane blind man." We thus see the King did not
scrimp either his munificence or his charity on the occasions of his
visiting Loch Kinnord.
Little more than a year after this
visit, the lands of Aboyn, Glenmuick, and Glentanner, with the
"Pele" of Loch Kinnord, were by royal charter united, and
incorporated into a free barony and earldom, to be called the
"barony and Earldom of Huntly in all time to come." This charter is
dated 12th January, 1505-6; and the object it had in view was to
prevent these lands from following their present owners, and
becoming attached to the earldom of Sutherland, should the wife of
Adam Gordon succeed to that dignity, of which there was now a fair
prospect.
In the year 1519, one of the vassals
of Earl Alexander appeared at "the pier of Lochtcanmor" to have
presence of his lordship, and ask him for a renewal of his lands of
Kincraigie, which, it would seem, the Earl, on account of same
offence he had received, was not disposed to grant, and very
haughtily refused him an audience. Thereupon the vassal took legal
advice, and procuring the services of a notary public, repaired to
the end of the drawbridge, and there read his petition and claim.
After some time Kincraigie came under the required bondage, and
received a renewal of his leasehold.
The Earl of Huntly having married, in
his old age, Lady Elizabeth Gray, the widow of Lord Glammis, a
designing woman, she took care to secure for herself an ample
jointure in case she should survive her lord. This jointure
consisted of the Deeside estates, whereof she received a charter
from her husband, dated 27th July, 1511, confirmed afterwards by
Eoyal charter— 19th July, 1515. She did survive him ; but having no
relish for the state of widowhood, she again found connubial bliss
with the Earl of Kothes, on whose youth she practised with success
the same arts as she had employed on the age of Huntly. Loch Kinnord,
with its castle, thus passed in life-rent to an avaricious and
nonresident proprietrix, who cared for nothing but the rents. At her
death these lands reverted to George, 4th Earl of Huntly, "the
proudest, most powerful, and most ambitious of his race." In the
early part of his career he was altogether too great a potentate to
look after the improvement of this outlying portion of his vast
property. He lived at Court and controlled the affairs of the nation
till the rising power of the Regent Murray, the head of the
reforming party, compelled him to retire to the north.
Here he set himself to repair all the
old and decayed fortresses, and to build others, with the intention,
as his enemies said, of setting up a Highland Principality to
overawe the Government. Among others, the Castle of Loch Kinnord was
restored to more than its former strength, and garrisoned with a
body of the Earl's soldiers. For their spiritual welfare a chapel
was built on the southern shore, near the place where the farmhouse
of Mickle Kinnord now stands, and where the baptismal font may still
be seen. In the chapel they worshipped, and in the consecrated
ground around they buried their dead. Although the greater part of
the site has now been converted into amble land, the older natives
still remember the ruined walls and the green mounds.
It was a stirring time then at Loch
Kinnord. Though we have no direct proof, this was in all probability
the ago when the great drawbridge and the prison on the smaller
island were built; and the castle on the larger, and other decayed
buildings renovated and made fit for the reception of military. All
this came to a sudden end when the plot—whatever it was—was nearly
ripe for execution. The great Earl, as is well known, fell in the
battle of Corrichie, 28th October, 1562; and an indictment of high
treason was exhibited against him, his estates and honours being
therein declared forfeited to the Crown. This decree did not much
trouble his son and successor, who inherited not a little of his
father's talents and ambition; because it depended on the issue of
the struggle in which he was engaged, as a leader of the party
called Queen's Men, whether it should have any effect at all. During
the time he held the earldom (1562-76), the fort of Loch Kinnord
falls quite out of view. It probably still maintained a small
garrison to keep Highland cattle lifters somewhat in check.
George, 6th Earl and 1st Marquis of
Huntly, having succeeded to the estates and honours of the earldom
when a minor, the management of the property and the leadership of
the clan devolved on his uncle, Sir Adam Gordon—the terror of his
enemies, and the hero of many a ballad, as the famous " Edom o'
Gordon." It is not likely that under his regency any strength of the
family would have been allowed to fall into decay. We may therefore
be very sure that the "Pele" of Loch Kinnord was handed over at his
death (1580) to his nephew, in as defensible a condition as it had
been for the previous century.
The youthful Earl who now succeeded,
deprived of the wise counsels of his experienced uncle, displayed at
first not a little rashness, extravagance, and pride. He even
negotiated with foreign Governments, as if he were an independent
sovereign, and affected to despise the Government of his own
country. This bearing and action led to the battle of Glenlivet (3rd
Oct., 1594), the result of which was to convince him that, though he
had signally defeated a far superior force under Argyle, sent
against him by the Government, he had placed himself by his victory
in a position of most imminent danger—in fact an untenable position.
He therefore submitted to a voluntary exile until the animosity
raised against him should subside. On his return to his native land,
two years thereafter (13th August, 1596), he was received by the
King with great honour; and on 17th April, 1599, created by letters
patent, First Marquis of Huntly. Whether this favour and these
honours had slightly turned his head, or roused the jealousy of the
Parliament, certain it is that he very soon after fell under the
suspicion of engaging again in treasonable practices against the
Government; and from this date, till 1616, he was subjected to
various periods of imprisonment, and frequently to sentences of
excommunication by the Church authorities.
All this persecution—if so we may
call it—he bore with a spirit very unlike that which he had
displayed in his early youth—a spirit which shows that he was
ripening into a great and good man, however mistaken his opinions in
politics or his creed in religion may have been. He now eschewed
politics and devoted himself with the utmost intelligence to the
improvement of his property. He was the first man in the north of
Scotland who discovered the advantage of covering its barren moors
with plantations of thriving timber; and he led the way for more
peaceful times by building mansions, not so much for warlike
purposes as for the comforts and conveniences of a more civilized
life. In pursuance of this policy, instead of taking up his
residence in the fortified "Pele" of Loch Kinnord, he built a new
family residence at Kandychyle, combining, as was still necessary,
the means of defence with the conveniences of more peaceful
avocations. From this time Kandychyle (the end of the wood), now
called Dee Castle, became the principal residence of the Marquis and
his family when they visited their Dee-side estates.
The chapel, as a matter of course,
followed the Marquis's residence; and while the one at Loch Kinnord,
gradually fell into decay, its successor continued, with occasional
interruptions and varying fortunes, to hold some ground from 1616 to
1873, when a new Roman Catholic chapel was built at Aboyne,
rendering a place of worship at Kandychyle unnecessary, and it has
not since been used for that purpose.
The Marquis, we have reason to
believe, resided very frequently at Kandychyle. When Spalding, the
local historian of the time, has occasion to notice a visit of his
Lordship, he does so as if it were a thing of common occurrence—for
example, "The 10th of July, 1633, the Marquis of Huntly, intending
to keep this parliament, came to Kandychyle, where he fell sick; but
he sent his lady and Lady Aboyne (his daughter-in-law) to complain
to his majesty anent the fire of Frendraught, who took their own
time as commodiously as they could, and accompanied with some ether
ladies in mourning weed, pitifully told the king of the murder done
by the fire at Frendraught, humbly craving justice at his hands. The
king with great patience heard this complaint, whilk he bewailed,
comforted the ladies the best he could, and promised justice; they
could get no more at present, but humbly took their leave of the
king and returned to their lodgings."
It would seem also, from the
traditions that still circulate in the district regarding Kandychyle,
that it was used mainly, if not entirely, as a hunting seat, and
that it was seldom occupied for military purposes. "On the hill of
Little Tullich" says the writer of the New Stat. Account,
"overlooking the site of the old Castle of Cean-na-coil, are the
remains of what is called 'My Lord's House' consisting of five
courses of a square stone building, the wall at the base course 12
feet thick, and diminishing about a foot each course, so that the
five courses present, on the outside, the appearance of a stair of
so many steps on each side. The entry is from the west, and the
apartment within is 7½ feet each side. The use of this building is
reported to have been for obtaining a view during a deer-hunt."
It may be allowable so far to digress
from the direct narrative as to say that the skilled workmen
employed in the building of the new castle at Cean-na-coil were
brought by the Marquis from the town of Huntly. After the completion
of the work several of these settled on the Deeside estates, and
afterwards became industrious and respected tenants. The Robertsons,
the Milnes, and the Calders trace their origin as tenants and
followers of the Huntly family on Deeside to the above circumstance.
Their "forebears" were artificers in stone, iron, and timber, and
settled ultimately in Ballaterich, Glentanar, and Greystone.
It was in the family of the first
named that the youthful Lord Byron resided for some time, when
recovering from an attack of fever; and the name of one member has
been immortalized by obtaining a place in his poetry. Mary, the
second daughter, had won the boyish affection of the young poet;
and, though he might say,
"It could not be love, for I knew not
the name," certain it is that her image was not effaced from his
memory even in the later years of his life. Mary was not generally
esteemed such a beauty as her elder sister, Jane; but the writer has
it from one that knew her in her bloom, that "she was a bonnie
lassie for a* thai" It may interest the reader to know something of
the after life of "Byron's Mary," as (after the publication of his "
Hours of Idleness ") she was generally called. Her parents were not
wealthy, but her mother was well connected. Helen Bland Watson
Macdonald, afterwards Mrs. Robertson of Ballaterich, was the lawful
daughter of Captain Macdonald of Rinetan, whose descent can, it is
said, be traced from a Lord of the Isles. Mr. Robertson had a large
family ; one of the younger sons, named Lewis, was playfully styled
" Lewis XIII.," to mark his place among
the other members; and hence arose a saying that one of the kings of
France was born at Ballaterich. Through Captain Macdonald's
influence three of the sons obtained commissions in the H.E.I.C.S.,
and all rose to the rank of Colonel. Other two members of the family
were educated for the Roman Catholic priesthood, but, it is
believed, they never entered into orders, owing, it is said, to some
difficulties in regard to their taking the oath of celibacy. Mary,
Lord Byron's first flame, married Kenneth Stewart, an Excise
officer, then stationed in the parish of Crathie. At his death,
which occurred not many years after their marriage, she removed to
Aberdeen, where she died; but her remains were conveyed to the old
Churchyard of Glentanar, where there is a handsome tombstone over
her grave, bearing the following inscription:—
"Sacred to the memory of James
Robertson, who departed this life on 4th day of April, 1814, aged 71
years; and of Helen Macdonald, his spouse, who died on 11th day of
August, 1813, aged 60 years; Also of Mart Robertson, their daughter,
widow of Kenneth Stewart, who died at Aberdeen on 2nd March, 1867,
aged 85 years."
It thus appears that Mary
Robertson—"My Sweet Mary"—was the poet's senior by six years.
Even at that early age (eleven) the
wilful, intractable disposition, which in riper years too much
distinguished the character of the noble bard, had begun to display
itself The following is the account the author has received from one
who well remembers the young poet during his residence on
Deeside:—"He was a very takin' laddie, but no easily managed. He was
very fond of coming up to see my father's shop (a carpenter's
workshop), and particularly fond o' the turning lathe ; but he widna
haud his hands frae ony o' the tools, and he spoiled them completely
before he would let them go. My father couldna lay hands on him, and
he wid tak' nae telling; so at last he always set some o' us to
watch when we wid see him coming up the brae frae Ballaterich; and
when he got word that he was coming ho would lock the door an' gang
awa' out about. There was nae ither way o' deein' wi' him."