Less than thirty
years ago the upward traveller by the old Deeside coach, on crossing
the burn of Dinnet, was apt to fancy himself as entering some vast
wilderness of brown heath, where no human habitation had ever stood;
and for the next three miles of his journey this impression was
likely to be rather strengthened than dissipated by the aspect of
the country on either hand. Generally, therefore, it was with a
feeling of relief that he found himself wheeled down the somewhat
dangerous descent of-the narrow old county road, where it swept in
alarming promixity to dark Pol Phanterich, from the rocky buttress
of Culblean to the door of the roadside hostelry of Cambus o' May.
But though concealed from his view, he had all the while been
skirting a locality as lovely and picturesque as the moor be bad
crossed was barren and dreary.
At that time very few
strangers were aware of the existence of Loch Kinnord, and fewer
still knew anything of tde charms of its scenery; while the
interesting remains of antiquity that abound in the vicinity were
but little explored. "No one bad seen them who could understand
their significance or read their story.
Now all this is
changed. The new turnpike, opened in 1857, by winding round the
northern slope of the Mickle Ord, brought the lake and its sylvan
environs within view of the passing tourist; but he was content to
look at it as at a beautiful scene in a shifting diorama. [So little
was the locality even then known, that in the edition of the Deeside
Guide published in 1866, Loch Kinnord and Loch Davan are placed
three miles apart, and the line of the Tarland and Ballater road is
made to pass between them, whereas they are not 100 yards apart, and
the road passes to the north of Loch Davan.] There was no convenient
place near where he could break his journey and resume it again
after a personal examination of the locality. At length, however,
the opening of the railway between Aboyne and Ballater (16th Oct.,
1866) gave the desired opportunity. The stations at Dinnet and
Cambus o' May afford convenient points from which to reach the lake,
whose beautiful shores are now annually visited by crowds of holiday
excursionists. Rich in treasures of science and relics of long
forgotten ages, it has now become a centre of attraction for
naturalists and antiquaries. Some of these relics are of so hoar an
antiquity that they throw around the scene something of a hallowed
character, suggesting to the intelligent visitor "thoughts of other
years," and raising in the imagination pictures of a state of
society so remote, that the very outlines of it are but faintly
traceable, so far back do they lie in the long vista down which we
look into pre-historic times.
It is with the view
of guiding in some measure these thoughts, and throwing, if
possible, some light on these pictures that the following brief
history of Kinnord is offered to those whose pleasure or curiosity
may lead them to visit this interesting district.