From Kilmarnock to Grouger--The Ruins
of Tammie Raeburn’s Cottage--His self-imposed vow, personal appearance,
courtship, witticisms, etc.--Grougar Row--Loudoun Kirk--The Queir--Lady
Flora Hastings--Her melancholy death--The character of her Poems--Janet
Little, the poetical correspondent of Robert Burns--George Palmer--An
obscure Covenanter--A relic of Loudoun Kirk.
One Saturday morning while
aimlessly straying through the town I resolved to retire from its noise
and bustle for a space and seek the quietude of the country. For this
purpose I crossed Green Bridge, and after a short walk arrived at
Holehouse road. Turning into it, I entered the first road on the right and
held onward. This road--as the reader in all probability is aware--runs
between Kilmarnock and Loudoun Kirk, and is one of the good old undulating
sort that winds over heights and hollows in such a manner that the
pedestrian meets with a good deal of ups and downs while traversing it.
Any little toil, however, that I encountered during my walk was amply
repaid by the extensive and beautiful views obtained of the valley of the
Irvine, and of the ever-memorable district,
"Where Loudoun Hill rears high its
conic form,
And bares its rocky bosom to the storm."
From Bonnyhill, where the
view is exceptionally fine, a lengthy walk brought me to the Irvine, at a
point where it sweeps round a curve and tears along its channel through
some beautiful scenery from which it emerges triumphantly, and passes
placidly on it way to the sea. From the margin of the river the road
diverges and becomes somewhat steep for a short distance. Along it, on the
brow of a hill, a little off the highway, stands the beautiful villa of
Mr. John Murray, factor for Grougar, and in the hollow behind, concealed
from view, the ruin of the humble cottage of Tammie Raeburn, the Ayrshire
Hermit. Being anxious to visit what was at one time the residence of a
peculiarly interesting personage, I climbed over a field gate and alighted
in a kind of roadway which runs along the side of a hedge and terminates
in a small holm. Rounding a turn of the path the roofless, ruinous
domicile suddenly came into view--a circumstance that caused me to pause
and ruminate upon the changed scene before me. Where now, I asked myself,
are the swains and braw lasses who made this hollow ring with their
laughter and doffing glee forty years ago? Some are removed far from the
place of their nativity, others slumber in the lethe of death, and the few
living are wrinkled with care and fast hastening to "the bourned from
whence no traveller returns." I found two gables of the cottage entire,
but the back and front walls much broken down, and the interior strewed
with the debris
out of which grew tall nettles and rank weeds.
The tresseled ivy twined fantastically about one of the gables, and
clutched the tottering stones with its tendrils, as if anxious to hold the
fabric together. The eccentric Thomas Raeburn, whose memory gives to the
ruin of a kind of interest, died on the 23rd
of June, 1843, in the 74th
year of his age, after spending the greater part of his life in the
fulfilment of a foolish self-im posed vow which he rigorously kept until
the day of his death. He now sleeps in Stewarton Kirkyard, but his name
and personal appearance will long be spoken of, and numerous anecdotes of
him will form the subject of many a story at firesides in town and
country. Raeburn inherited the house and a few acres of land, which
constituted his farm, from his father. Curiously enough the small property
was surrounded by that of other people, and there was no direct road into
it save one through a field belonging to a neighbour. This the neighbour
closed, and forbade Raeburn to use it; but Raeburn, imagining that "use
and won’t" constituted a right to continue what had been a privilege, went
to law, lost the case, and was mulcted in heavy expenses. The result of
the trial so preyed upon his mind that he became morose and gloomy, for he
believed that justice had not been meted out, and that the judge had dealt
harshly with him. In this frame of mind he took a solemn vow upon himself
that he would never shave his beard, cut his hair, or renew his clothing
until he received his rights. In course of time he became an odd-looking
personage. His hair grew long and matted, and his beard, which was
unkempt, hung in long tangled masses down his breast. His clothes, too, in
course of time lost their identity, and became so patched and darned that
it was ultimately a matter of difficulty to discover an original piece of
any garment. Naturally enough such a peculiar individual attracted many
visitors from all parts of the country, but more so from Kilmarnock--a
favourite rural walk with young people of both sexes being from the town
to Tammie’s residence and back. He was of a parsimonious, money-loving
disposition, lived sparingly, and drank nothing but water when
bacchanalian cheer was not supplied to him gratis or procured without
making a call on his purse. Tammie was never married, although in early
life he had a desire of being so to the daughter of a neighbouring farmer
who had attracted his attention at church. Peeps at her charms during the
hours of divine service did not satisfy the would-be suitor long, for he
resolved to call at the farm and offer the maiden his hand and heart. With
this object in view he dressed himself in his Sunday clothes one fine day
and set out to her residence, fully sensible of the delicate nature of his
mission. With a palpitating heart he knocked at the door. It was opened by
his affianced, who enquiringly looked, as if anxious to ascertain his
business. Tammie stared at her, but not a word could he utter. Ultimately,
by a prodigious effort, he managed to stammer out--"Could ye tell me the
road to Finnick?" The nymph gave the required information, and so ended
the only courtship that he was ever known to engage it. After this event
an old woman kept house for him, and managed his dairy, for he kept
several cows and was famed for making cheese of an excellent quality.
Tammie welcomed visitors of all grades to his residence, and was ever
ready to crack a joke, and that as often as possible at their expense; but
these were mostly tame and childish, savouring more of catches than
witticisms. For instance, upon being asked if his clock was with the town,
he replied in a self-satisfied manner--’No, it’s twa mile an’ a half aff
it." If a visitor asked to light his pipe, he was generously told by the
"hermit" that "There’s no as muckle fire in the house as was licht a pipe,
but ye may licht yer tobacco." Upon being asked if he was ever drunk, he
replied--"There’s naebody wi’ a throat big enough to swallow the like o’me."
Tammie had a strange influence over the feathered tribe. Often for the
gratification of visitors he would go into his garden and cry "Bobbie,
bobbie;" then place a small piece of bread between his lips and stand
still until a robin would alight upon his beard, take the morsel from his
mouth, and fly off to a neighbouring bough with the prize. To accommodate
visitors he dealt in lemonade and ginger-beer, and occasionally in a more
stimulating beverage. This infringement of the excise law, however, did
not go unpunished, for upon one occasion he was convicted and fined in
twenty-five pounds. Raeburn has passed away. The wealth he so avariciously
scraped together was divided amongst his relations, the trees of his
orchard have been cut down, and his bit farm is now included in the estate
of Grougar. His parsimony would not allow him to enjoy life, and he, I
have no doubt, assumed eccentricities with a desire to appear odd, and
ultimately because it brought in the bawbees.
Leaving the shattered
hermitage I crossed a stubble field and strolled up the river bank.
Passing Milton Mill I regained the highway, and after a brisk walk arrived
at Grougar Row--a collection of miner’s dwellings remarkable for nothing
save the number of rosy-cheeked children sporting in front of them as
happy and as frolicsome as fairies. It is somewhat curious that wherever
working people are located bairns are plentiful. Were they a source of
wealth, as they are said to be in some parts of the globe, how well off
many a poor man would be. Beyond the Row, stately trees line the road for
some considerable distance, and render the walk a pleasant one. I enjoyed
it immensely, and arrived at Loudoun Kirkyard well satisfied with the
scene through which I passed. The gate was locked, and by the long rank
grass that grew about the entrance it was evident that it had not been
opened for some time. In a dilemma I eyed the wall, but abandoned the idea
of climbing by the turning into a side road where I observed a cottage.
Passing it I stopped before the entrance to a neat garden where roses and
flowers of various hues luxuriantly bloomed, and beautified the spot.
Venturing within the flowery threshold, I was met by a motherly
middle-aged woman, who kindly directed me through the garden to a little
wicket which opened into the churchyard. This lady afterwards proved to be
the occupant of the cottage, and the daughter of the late James Nisbet,
who was sexton of Loudoun churchyard for a long series of years, and on
that account is invaluable to the visitor, as she is well versed in the
antiquities of the burial place and the lore of the district. The ancient
place of sepulture is surrounded by a wall and a row of sombre trees,
through which the passing wind soughs as if mournfully sighing for the
oblivious dead moldering beneath their shade. Its interior is unadorned
with shrubbery, and the headstones and monuments are few and scattered,
but in the absence of pompous decoration, Nature has spread a grassy
coverlet over the spot, and on the occasion of my visit it was decked with
gowans, butter-cups, and a variety of wild flowers, which she scatters so
profusely over hill and dale. In the centre stands a meagre remnant of
Loudoun Kirk, consisting of one gable and a portion called the "queir,"
which has been used as the Loudoun family sepulchre from a very early
date. The kirk was erected in 1451 by a donation to the monks of
Kilwinning by the lady of Sir John Campbell. The queir has a very ancient
appearance, and is embellished with the Loudoun family arms and other
curious devices. In the back wall there is a small grated window which I
looked through until my eyes became accustomed to the internal gloom and
reveiled to me the outline of several coffins on the floor, whose
mountings glistened in the faint light and whose appearance caused a
strange shudder to thrill my frame. These encasements were all renewed
some years ago, the old ones having become so decayed that they had fallen
to pieces. Within the queir rests the mortal remains of the gifted but
unfortunate Lady Flora Hastings. When one of the ladies of the bed-chamber
to H.R.H. the Duchess of Kent, a most cruel and unmerited slander was
raised against her, which so preyed upon her mind and wounded her feelings
that she died of a broken heart in Buckingham Palace in July, 1839. Nearly
the whole nation at the time deeply sympathised with her, and greatly
deplored her untimely end. By her request her remains were conveyed to
Loudoun and depositied alongside those of generations of her ancestors.
The body was followed to its last resting place by her mother (the Dowager
Marchioness), her sisters and brothers, and other relations of her family,
and also by many parishioners who felt a deep commiseration for her. The
mother survived her favourite daughter for little over a year, and it is
believed that the melancholy circumstances which accelerated her
daughter’s death hastened her own. Lady Flora was an accomplished poetess,
and shortly after her decease her poems, which are distinguished by much
purity of thought, sweetness and grace, were collected and published. An
able reviewer has said that "such a deep love for the beautiful, the
exalted, and the holy reigns throughout them all, that it is impossible to
repel the conviction that her actions accorded with her words, and that
her words gave but the utterance to the calm and sinless feelings of her
heart."
"O, ill befa’ the raven wing
That brake her harp o’ gouden string!
The dove-like harp whose siller lays
Pour’d music sweet on Loudon braes."
From the queir I turned my
attention to the little burying-place and the unassuming memorials it
contains. Near to its door the oldest stone in the yard is to be met with.
It is embellished with Masonic emblems, and is to the memory of "Matho
Fultun, maister mason--ane richt honest man who died in the year of God
1632." There are some verses in its centre which are most difficult to
make out, but the gist of them is that Matho went to his grave as to his
bed, with the intention of rising at the resurrection. The stone is very
curious, and well worth the attention of those who are expert at
deciphering semi-obliterated in scriptions. A few yards from this, and
near to the ivy-mantled gable of the auld Kirk, a plain slab marks the
spot where lie the remains of Janet Little, the celebrated poetical
correspondent of Robert Burns. It bears the following inscription:--"In
memory of John Richmond, who died August 10, 1819, aged 78 years; and
Janet Little, his spouse, who died March 15, 1818, aged 54 years, and five
of their children." Janet Little, authoress of a poetical work which never
gained any great or lasting popularity, spent her early years about
Ecclefechan, and came to serve in the capacity of a domestic servant in
the family of Mrs Henrie, a daughter of Mrs Dunlop of Dunlop, the
distinguished friend of the poet Burns, who rented Loudoun Castle during
the years 1788-89. While in their service, she met with a volume of the
bard’s poems, and seemingly was so enraptured with its contents that she
conceived a partiality for the author and wrote him a poetical address,
which she forwarded along with a letter of explanation. A few verses from
it may not be out of place:--
"Fair fa’ the honest rustic swain,
The pride o’ a’ our Scottish plain;
Thour gi’es us joy to hear thy strain,
And notes sae sweet;
Old Ramsay’s shade revived again
In thee we greet.
"Lov’d Thalia, that delightfu’
muse,
Seem’d long shut up in a recluse;
To all she did her aid refuse
Since Allan’s day;
‘Till Burns arose, then did she chuse
To grace thy lay.
"To hear thy sang all ranks
desire,
Sae weel you strike the dormant lyre
Apollo with poetic fire
Thy breast does warm;
An’ critics silently admire
Thy art to charm.
"Caesar and Luath weel can speak--
‘Tis pity o’er their gabs should steek,
But into human nature keek,
And knots unravel;
To hear their lectures once a week
Nine miles I travel."
Near to Janet’s grave,
there is a handsome monument erected by the parishioners of Loudoun as a
tribute to the memory of their late pastor, the Rev. James Allan, who died
1st June, 1864; and at a short distance from it a stone,
unassuming in appearance, to the memory of Margaret Reid (spouse to John
Campbell, smith, Alton), who died December, 27th, 1821, aged 65
years. It bears the following reminder to the passer by:--
"Time was I was as thou art now,
Looking o’er the dead as thou dost me;
Ere long thou’lt lie as low as I,
And others stand and look o’er thee."
Upon reading these rude
lines I leaned on my staff and mused, "for other feet will tread the
street a hundred years to come," and we will rest from our labours
forgotten." In life death is feared, and its approach dreaded, because of
its mystery; but could we penetrate the gloom of the grave, perchance we
would hail the dread spectre with as much joy as the tempest-tossed
mariner does the sight of his native shore.
In the vicinity of the last
named stone, there is a very handsome one of recent erection bearing the
following inscription:--"Erected by Helen Fulton, in memory of her
husband, George Palmer, who died 26th May, 1874, aged 77 years.
He was teacher of the Free School, Kilmarnock, for 31 years. His duties,
discharged with conscientious diligence, gained the entire approbation of
its directors. He was a man of rare abilities, breathed the very spirit of
the Gospel, live its life, and his end was peace." The name of George
Palmer will be familiar to many elderly natives of Kilmarnock, and on this
account the sleeper ‘neath the green turf deserves more than a passing
notice. Born of parents who belonged to that class designated "the
industrious poor," he was early apprenticed to the loom, and continued at
it until well up in manhood. Being possessed of a fine intellect, he
thirsted after knowledge and gradually acquired an education that fitted
him for a better position. During the Radical years he zealously entered
into politics, and being gifted with a calm, discriminating mind, and
power of language, he soon became a leading spirit amongst those who were
infected with similar opinions. To be a Radical, especially an intelligent
one, was to be a marked man, and the subject of this notice began to be
looked upon as a dangerous individual by the authorities, and with many
others, was apprehended on the night of the 14th of April,
1820, when a regiment of Yeomanry Calvary invaded Kilmarnock. When made
prisoners, Bailie Porteous, who accompanied the captors, searched his
house, and when rummaging through his desk, remarked, "George, you are a
beautiful writer." Perhaps this incident had something to do with his
future prosperity, for it was this veritable Bailie who introduced him to
the Free School. After suffering three months’ imprisonment in Ayr Jail,
he was discharged without a trial, and returned home to abandon
politics for matters of a more profitable nature. Shortly afterwards he
received the appointment to the Free School, and after labouring init for
thirty years was granted by the directors a retiring salary, which he
enjoyed for nearly twenty years. Mr Palmer was the author of several
school manuals, and contributed to the local papers. For a long period he
was an elder in the King Street Church. When he retired from public life
he settled in Galston, and became a member, and ultimately an elder, in
the church of the Rev. Mr Matthewson. He fought the good fight, and closed
a life of usefulness at a ripe old age. Besides the stones noticed here at
random, there are several others both ancient and modern that will prove
very interesting to the visitor. One near the little gate that I noticed
when leaving the churchyard I can- not omit. It bears the device of a
cross and crown, and the following inscription:--"Here lies Thomas
Flemming of Loudoun Hill, who, for his appearance in arms in his own
defence, and in the defence of the Gospel, according to the obligations of
our National Covenant and agreeable to the Word of God, was shot in an
encounter at Drumclog, 1st
June, 1679, by bloody Graham of
Claverhouse." Nothing seems to be known of Thomas Flemming further than
what the inscription tells. His name does not occur in Wodrow or any other
work I have met with.
When leaving the secluded
burying place, Mrs Semple, the occupant of the cottage already mentioned,
showed me a relic of Loudoun Kirk in the shape of a moderately-sized bell,
which, tradition states, was sent from Holland as a present to the
parishioners by James second Earl of Loudoun, eldest son of the Lord
Chancellor. It was anciently the custom to toll this bell in front of
funeral possessions on their way to the churchyard; but it has been
discontinued, and the relic is now a curiosity. The words "Loudoun Kirk"
is cast upon it in raised letters. |