The Bridge connecting Kilmarnock with
Riccarton, and the objects of interest in their vicinity--Caprington
Castle--Riccarton Castle, it site and traditions--Traditions of Sir
William Wallace--Riccarton--The Parish Church--Sandy M’Crone--The
Churchyard--Old Stones--The East Shaw Street Miser--The Old
Church--Village Worthies--The Village past and present--The Manse.
On a bright morning in the
leafy month of June I stood in the Cross of Kilmarnock, staff in hand, for
I had cast business and care aside for the day, and formed the resolution
to ramble along some of the rustic highways and byeways, and explore the
antiquities and sylvan scenes that intersperse the cultivated landscapes
round the town. Glancing at the numerous thoroughfares which branch off
this local centre, I passed down King Street, and being light of heart and
limb, was well through Glencairn Street before I was aware that I was
leaving the busy town behind, and that the beauteous scenery by which it
is surrounded was bursting into view. Looking in front I beheld a scene at
once picturesque and lovely--a scene that never fails to delight me when I
look upon it. In the foreground Riccarton Tollhouse and old Bridge, behind
a portion of the village, and away in the background the steep hills of
Craigie bathed in sunlight.
Gaining the Tollhouse I
found it situated between two handsome bridges which span the river
Irvine. One of these has an ancient look, but the other is comparatively
modern structure. The river here divides the parish of Kilmarnock and
Riccarton, and forms the boundary line between the districts of Kyle and
Cunninhame. The old Bridge bears the date of its erection (1726), and it
is not a little curious--if Aiton is to be relied on--that the first carts
used in Ayrshire were employed to convey stones for its construction. The
road over the old Bridge leads through the village of Riccarton. At one
time it was the highway between Kilmarnock and Ayr, but the portion on
which the village stands being steep, crooked, and narrow, the new Bridge
was built and a straight line of road formed some thirty years ago.
From the parapet of the new
Bridge an extensive view is obtainable. In the distance are seen the
cloud-capped hills of Arran and heights of Dundonald, but as I have no
desire of tiring the reader with lengthy descriptions of scenery I will
merely refer to the places of interest that come within the range of
vision to the west of the village. About a quarter of a mile below the
bridges, the river Marnock--mingles its leaden flood with that of its more
pellucid and sprightly sister the Irvine, which winds along until it is
concealed from view by the tall trees that embower the Castle of
Caprington, the turrets of which peer from its sylvan retreat in
impressive magnificence. This Castle is of great antiquity. It is built
upon a rock that juts out near the bed of the river, and having been
greatly improved and modernized of late years, it may be considered one of
the finest buildings in the district. It originally belonged to a branch
of the Wallace family, and according to the "Statistical Account" is
mentioned in a charter bearing the date 1385, under the name "Castellum
turris fortalice de Caprington." Adam Cuninghame, the first of the
Caprington family, was a grandchild of Sir William Cuninghame of Kilmaurs.
He inherited Caprington by marriage with a daughter of Sire Duncan Wallace
of Sundrum during the reign of James II. The estate remained in the
possession of his descendants until 1829, when the death of Sir William
Cunninghame, bart, occurred. That nobleman dying without issue, the
Baronetcy devolved upon Sir Robert Keith Dick, of Prestonfield, but
Caprington is at this date (1875) in the possession of William Cathcart
Smith Cunninghame, Esq. The estate is rich in mineral, coal of the finest
quality being found in great abundance, and the miners are noted for their
respectability and sobriety. The houses built on the estate by the
proprietor for their accommodation are commodious and neat, and seem
palaces when compared to the dwellings too often provided by coal masters
for their men.
To the left, on the top of
some rising ground, stands the farm-house of Yardside. It is built on the
site of Riccarton Castle, but there is nothing of interest about it save
some stately trees which are said to have adorned the garden of the
ancient edifice. History is silent regarding this stronghold, and even
Pont has failed to notice it in his topography; yet it is nevertheless
certain that it was the abode of the Wallaces, baron of Riccarton, who
were the early possessors of the district, and it is referred to as such
in several ancient documents. Blind Harry speaks of it, and according to
him it was the residence of Sir William Wallace, the Scottish hero. It was
to Riccarton Castle Wallace fled when he slew the Cumberland chief, Selby,
governor of Dundee, and to it he also directed his steps upon revenging
the treacherous murder of his uncle and other barons by firing the barns
of Ayr.
In the hollow, a little
below the water meetings, stands the farm-house of Maxholm. Near to it a
thorn tree called the "Bickering Bush" stood, it was said, to mark the
spot where Wallace was set upon by English soldiers while fishing. A troop
happening to ride past, five of the party left the corps and demanded the
fish he had taken. Refusing to comply with their request, an altercation
ensued, and one dismounted to forcibly possess himself of them. Being
unarmed at the time, Wallace struck him down with his fishing-rod,
wrenched his sword from him, and with a back stroke cut off the fellow’s
head. Seeing the fate of their comrade, the others quickly dismounted to
revenge his death, but two of the number met a similar fate. Blind Harry,
who graphically records this incident, tells the remaining part of the
story, as follows:--
"Three slew he there, two fled with
all their might
Unto their horse in a confounded fright;
Left all their fish, no longer durst remain,
And three fat English bucks upon the plain;
Thus in great hurry, having got their cuffs,
They scampered off in haste to save their buffs."
A local tradition says that
when Wallace found himself master of the field he made with all possible,
speed to the castle and related the adventure to his uncle’s housekeeper.
The good lady, fearing that
the English would not allow such an ignominious defeat to go unavenged,
persuaded him to don a gown and "mutch" and seat himself at a
spinning-wheel. The disguise was perfect, but it was not effected a moment
too soon, for the clattering of horses’ hoofs were heard, and Wallace had
scarce time to lay hold of the distaff and commence spinning when a number
of soldiers dashed into the courtyard and roughly enquired if the author
of what they termed "an outrage" was within. The old house-keeper met
them, professed great amazement, and invited them to search the place.
This they did, but failed to discover in the supposed old woman at the
wheel the hero of the unequal fight.
Crossing the old Bridge, I
passed up the street of the village and soon arrived at the Parish Church.
It is a plain building of no particular style of architecture, and is
adorned with a handsome spire, which is conspicuous object on the
landscape, being discernible nearly the whole country round. The church
bears the date of 1823, is built on the top of a justice-mound, and from
its situation has an elegant appearance. A road leading to Hurlford
separates the church from the churchyard, and while passing it I observed
a man seated, ona mileston at a place vulgarly called "the lazy corner."
Remarking to him that the spire of the church was exceeding high, he
civilly replied that it was, but added he with a grin, "High as’ a’ as it’
is, a blin’ man ance gaed to the tao o’t."-- "A blind man go to the top of
a steeple!" I said with astonishment.--"Yes, an’ what’s mair, he stuck a
tattie on the cock’s neb--ye ken there used to be a cock on’t."--"But how
did he get up? who and what was he?’ I curiously enquired.--"Weel ye see
there was a scaffoldin’ roun’ it at the time, for it wasna quite
finished." continued my friend, with an air of man communicating something
of importance. --"But the blind man?" said I.--"Oh, ay, they ca’ him Sandy
M’Crone, an’ although he had been blin’ frae his boy-hood he was smarter
than mony wi’ their e’eicht, for there wasna a farm-house for miles roun’
but Sandy could gang to his lane; an’ what’s mair, he ance fand a lark’s
nest, an’ brocht a seein’ man to see it."--"But what did he do for a
living?"--"Oh, Sandy was a fiddler, sire; a grand fiddler was Sandy
M’Crone, an’ a’ body ken’d an’ liked him, for his cheery, droll ways gat
him mony frien’s. He belanged to Riccarton," he continued, after a pause;
"an’, as I said before, Sandy was a grand fiddler--he could maist gar his
fiddle speak. Hech ay (here he drew a long breath as if thinking of past
pleasures) mony a waddin’, an’ rockin’, an’ merrymakin’ Sandy played at;
but his elbow’s still noo, an’ nae mair will his music put life an’ mettle
i’ the heels o’ the dancers," he said in a sorrowful tone. After this my
loloqua- cious friend began to relate a fishing exploit that Sandy figured
n on the bank of the Cessnock, but it smacked so much of the improbable
that I bade him a hasty good morning and pushed on my way.
Passing the house of the
venerable Alexander Black, I had a desire to call upon him, but the hour
being early I deferred my visit until another time. Mr. Black is hale and
hearty, and although bordering on ninety can crack a joke and enjoy one.
He is the oldest man in Riccarton, and I believe the oldest freemason in
Ayrshire. He is possessed of an excellent memory, and graphically and with
great vivacity relates the sayings, doing, and actions of a past
generation.
Finding the churchyard gate
ajar, I entered, strayed amongst the grassy hillocks, and began to read
the brief records on the tombstones--a rather solemn occupation, but one
that does me good, for it reminds me that I am dust and hall to dust
return. The churchyard is small; it stands some ten feet above the level
of the road, and contains some curious and elaborately carved headstones
which have the appearance of considerable antiquity, but the inscriptions
are for the most part obliterated by the hand of time, and some are
falling to pieces, although William Walker, the sexton, who is kind of
antiquary, is doing his best to unearth and preserve them. A favourite
representation on several is a ploughing scene, which in every case is
rudely executed. In most instances the plough is drawn by oxen, and held
by a figure resembling that of a man, while another stands in front with a
goad in its hand as if urging the oxen forward. Other stones are decked
with heraldic designs, and a few with Garden of Eden scenes, while others
have emblematical representations of the trades that the sleepers followed
when in life. For instance, one has the shuttle, reed, and temples
sculptured on it; another millstones, wheels, and other gearing; while one
small but curious stone has the bodkin, shears, and iron. The stone
combining the oldest legible date bears that of 1641. Near the centre of
the churchyard is the burying-place of the Cuninghames of Caprington, and
behind it is that of the Campbells of Treesbank. Near to these there is a
tablet to the memory of Sir James Shaw’s father. The stone states that he
died in 1796, aged sixty-seven years. Close to that, again, a plain slab
announces that it is "Erected in memory of Mary Keohie, who was
killed in the Low Church, Kilmarnock, 1801, aged 13 years." There are many
other stones both ancient and modern that I might notice, especially that
to the memory of the well-known wit, William Millar, who told the farmer’s
wife when she set down whey to his porridge, that she needna hamper her
pigs for him, he could take milk brawly.
Among the forgotten dead,
and in "a dry and comfortable corner" near to the gate, lies an eccentric
individual whose death caused considerable stir in Kilmarnock, and more
especially in the Holm quarter, where it occurred on the 17th,
July, 1817. He was named William Stevenson, was a professional beggar of
miserly habits, and occupied a back house in East Shaw Street that stood
near to where Mr. William Frazer’s school now stands. He belonged to
Dunlop, was a mason to trade, but begged his bread and lived upon charity
during the greater part of his life. Robert Chambers mentions him in his
"Book of Days," and from that work I cull the following particulars:--
"About the year 1787 he and
his wife separated, making the strange agreement that whichever of them
was the first to propose reunion should forfeit one hundred pounds to the
other. It is supposed that they never met afterwards. In 1815, when about
eighty-five years old, Stevenson was seized with an incurable disease, and
was confined to his bed. A few days before his death, feeling his end to
be near, he sent for a baker, and ordered twelve dozen burial cakes, a
large quantity of sugar biscuits, and a good supply of wine and spirits.
He next sent for a joiner, and instructed him to make a good, sound, dry,
roomy coffin; after which he sent for the Riccarton gravedigger, and
requested him to select a favorable spot in a dry and comfortable corner
of the village churchyard, and there dig for him a roomy grave, assuring
him that he would be paid for his trouble. This done he ordered an old
woman who attended him to go to a certain nook and there bring out nine
pounds to pay all these preliminary expenses, telling her not to grieve
for him for he had remembered her in his will. Shortly after this he died.
A neighbor came in search for his wealth, which had been shrouded in much
mystery. In one bag was found large silver pieces such as dollars and
half-dollars, crowns and half-crown, and in a heap of musty rags a
collection of guineas and seven-shilling pieces; while in a box were found
bonds of various amounts, including one for three hundred pounds, giving
altogether a sum of about nine hundred pounds. A will was also found
bequeathing twenty pounds to the old woman who attended him, and most the
remainder to distant relations, setting aside sufficient to give a feast
to all the beggars in Ayrshire who chose to come and see his body lie in
state. The influx was immense, and after the funeral, which was attended
by a motley group of gaberlunzies, all retired to a barn that had been
fitted up for the occasion, and there indulged in revelries but little in
accordance with the solemn season of death."
In the centre of the
churchyard stood the old church of Riccarton, a small structure of
considerable antiquity which will be remembered by many of the old
inhabitants of the village and of Kilmarnock, for many of them have
worshipped in it, and in their turn watched the little Golgotha by night
to scare the resurrectionist and prevent the desecration of the dead.
There is now not a vestige of the old building left. The stones which
formed it were used to erect a one-storeyed house that stands near the old
bridge. It was at one time a Roman Catholic of Dalmulin, but was
transferred to the monks of Paisley, and remained in their hands until the
Reformation. "After the Reformation," says Chalmers, "the parish of
Ricardtoun was united to that of Craigie, and both were placed under the
charge of one minister. But they were again disunited in 1648, and have
since remained distinct parishes."
Leaving the churchyard, I
regained the village street and passed on my way. The portion of the
village surrounding the churchyard is very old. At the gate the houses
have a quaint, old-fashioned appearance. Here is situated the principal
inn, a modern building, and next to it a low-roofed, dingy, thatched
cottage, with a signboard over its door displaying a crown. The house was
called the Free-masons’ Arms, and was kept in "the good old times" by John
Morton, a village worthy who was noted for wit and’ wisdom, and was looked
to by the villagers as an authority in matters of law and politics. For a
series of years he held the honorable position of village postmaster, and
although long since dead he is still spoken of with respect. At the back
of this erection is a two-storeyed one, venerable in appearance and
old-fashioned in construction. An outside stair surmounted by a porch
leads to the second flat, which at one time was the hall of the
freemasons. Here the "brethren of the mystic tie" held their meeting, and
often have the walls rung with the sounds of merriment and applause on
festive occasions.
Amongst village notable of
the old school, old David Templeton the bellman, and Robert Pitt the
shoemaker, are worthy of notice. The first was peculiar for his dry
caustic wit and droll sayings, and although long since gathered to his
fathers the tall, gaunt form of the old man will be familiar to many
readers. The last-named lasted his last shoe some four years ago, and now
sleeps the dreamless sleep of death in the village churchyard. He was a
poet as well as a wit, and during the last thirty years of his life he was
a contributor to the poet’s corner of various Ayrshire newspapers.
Riccarton has a population
of 1889. It was created a burgh of barony in 1638, but its civic power was
never exercised. Although of great antiquity it was long an insignificant
hamlet, and it is only within the last seventy years that it has become of
any size or importance. It is now included in the parliamentary burgh of
Kilmarnock, and being a suburb of that thriving town it will doubtless
increase with its prosperity. About fifty years ago weaving was
extensively carried on in it, so much so, indeed, that the sound of the
shuttle could be heard issuing from almost every door, but the appliance
of machinery in that branch of industry has in a measure silenced it. The
village is principally inhabited by miners, and I think the character
given them by a late minister of the parish is very applicable. He
says--"I am happy to bear testimony to the general good conduct of a very
large class of the inhabitants--I mean the colliers. There are very many
of them in comfortable circumstances, inhabiting their own houses,
bringing up their families respectably, and seemingly surrounded with many
comforts, many of them being intelligent and pious men. Indeed, I may
almost say with confidence what can seldom be said of the same class of
workmen, that they are amongst the most orderly, industrious, and
intelligent of our parishioners."
Leaving the old portion of
the village behind, I passed along the footpath that skirts the garden
wall of the manse and turned into Craigie Road. The manse is at present
occupied by the Rev. William Jeffrey, the parish minister. It is a plain,
old-fashioned structure, and has nothing of interest connected with it
save it be the mantelpiece in the kitchen, which "The Statistical Account"
states is the identical one that graced the fireplace of the dining-room
Riccarton Castle. |