Green Bridge and its
environs--London Road--Milldykes--The Irvine, and Struthers’ Steps--Saint
Andrew’s Burying -Ground and Church--Glencairn Square and it
Associations--High Glencairn Street--King Street--King Street U.P.
Church--The Council House.
Taking the Cross again as
my starting-point, and traversing Duke Street, I pass the Corn
Exchange and arrive at Green Bridge. Tradition states that there was
a ford in early times at this spot, and a popular anecdote has it that a
certain farmer and a female servant crossed it every Sabbath on their way
to church--the farmer most ungallantly, for he did so on the back of the
maid, it being part of her duty to carry her master across. In course of
time the worthy farmer resolved to take Jenny to wife, and finding her
acquiescent they repaired to Kilmarnock on foot to get the knot tied. At
the ford Jenny bore her wonted burden across in safety, after which they
proceeded to the minister and had their wish consummated. Reaching the
ford on their way home, Jenny kilted her coats and paddled across, leaving
her now husband behind. "Jenny lass," cried he "ye maun carry me owre."--"Na,
na," she replied, "when we cam to the toun I was yer servant; noo I’m yer
wife an’ yer equal, sae ye can strip yer shoon an’ come awa’."
Looking up the river--if
Kilmarnock Water can be designated such--the scene is murkily romantic.
The view is terminated by the railway viaduct, and almost beneath the arch
that spans the stream the water falls over the weir of the Bark Brae dam
and purls along its polluted channel, tainted with extraneous matter. To
the right a steep bank clothed with wood rises abruptly from the water
edge. On its brow an old-fashioned mansion called Braehead House, the
residence of Mr T. B. Andrews, peers from its sylvan retreat, and near to
the bridge, some distance below the level of the road, there is a small
nursery and a neat bowling green. On the left are the works of Gregory,
Thomsons, & Co., and between them and the road is the Town Green, a small
piece ground the townspeople have the right of bleaching their clothes on.
It was at one time of much greater extent, but the erection of the Academy
and other buildings, and the construction of the road over the bridge,
have greatly narrowed its limits. Above the house-tops in the distance the
Roman Catholic Chapel and Fever Hospital stand prominently out, and more
near the gilded, dome-like spire of the High Church is a conspicuous
object.
Down the stream the scene
still retains a degree of picturesqueness. On the right, surrounded by a
playground, stands the Kilmarnock Academy, a plain, unassuming edifice. It
was erected in 1807. Many eminent teachers have laboured within it, and
not a few natives who were educated in it have distinguished themselves
and attained honourable positions. The opposite bank is an almost
perpendicular steep. It is studded with trees, and over is summit passes
the old line of the road to the town. The houses which line it are
primitive in construction and quaint-like in appearance. From Green Bridge
I push along London Road, and pass a cluster of old houses at the entrance
to Tankard Ha’ Brae. Beyond these, a short walk along this truly pleasing
highway brings me to Burnside. Opposite is Elmbank, the beautiful
residence of Mr. John Gilmour, coal master; and a little further on I pass
the handsome villa of our worthy Provost, Mr Peter Sturrock; then that of
Orchardhill, the residence of Mr Gross, procurator-fiscal. From
Orchardhill to the Newmill burn there is a long row of elegant
villas, with flower-plots in front and gardens behind. In style of
architecture they are very dis-similar, but they are all graceful and
neat, and are on the whole very handsome residences. The last two
buildings of the range are beautiful specimens of domestic architecture
and are equal to any of the merchant princes’ houses in the West End of
Glasgow. One is the property of Mr Gavin Anderson, coal master, and the
other of Mr Alexander Walker, wine merchant. Others equally palatial are
in course of erection. London Road undoubtedly contains the finest houses
of any thoroughfare in Kilmarnock.
Crossing Newmill burn, I
turn to the right and enter a rural avenue which skirts the trickling
streamlet. Strolling by the side of its hedgerows admiring the wide
expanse of country that crosses the burnie a little above where it falls
into the river. The road over the bridge was and still is a favourite walk
of the lads and lasses of the town, and also of older people whose daffin’
days have long since passed away. It is called the Milldykes. It lead to
Struthers’ Steps, a romantic spot, where there is a ford and where
stepping-stones connect the banks of the river. The scene is well described
by Mr David Smith, of Aberdeen, in a poem entitled "Youthful Days." Musing
on the haunts of his boyhood he says--
"And now appears another scene:
The Struthers’ Steps, with banks so green,
Stand out before bright and clear,
And bring a flood of memories dear.
Low, nestling close beside the hill
Stands Riccarton’s old famous mill;
The railway bridge lifts high its head
Above the Irvine’s lowly bed;
By Kameshill’s dark and gloomy wood
The river pours its silent flood."
Near to the bridge that
crosses Newmill burn the Irvine takes one of its fantastically abrupt
turns, after which it pursues a tolerably straight course until it passes
the village of Riccarton. Here also the Newmill lade enters the river, and
the mill itself is seen in the distance looking picturesque beneath the
shade of some tall trees. Straying along the river bank, I pass the
Small-Pox Hospital, and after a short walk arrive at the foot of Welbeck
Street. Here stands a large print-work name the Defiance; it was at one
time a busy place, but it has long stood inactive, and it is only
occasionally of late that the quiet which pervades its interior is broken
by the busy clatter of blocks. Near to the Defiance stands the
recently-erected bonnet yarn mills of Messrs Douglas, Reyburn, & Co. They
are somewhat extensive, and contain wonder-working machinery of the most
approved description. There are also adjacent the skin-works of Messrs
Adam Crooks & Son, and the tweed weaving factory of Messrs Hannah &
Company. Passing up Welbeck Street, I arrive at Robertson Place, or, as it
is more commonly called, "the Newton;" but as it contains nothing of
interest I turn to the left and enter what is termed Richardland Road.
Richardland Road is the new name of what formed part of the Milldykes.
Beyond its entrance there are as yet no buildings. It sill retains its
hedges and much of its original rusticity. When about half-way through
this quiet thorough-fare, I arrive at Saint Andrew’s Burying-Ground. It is
a small place, and has long been inadequate to the wants of the
population; but at present a fine new Cemetery is in course of
formation on the farm of Holehouse, in the vicinity of London Road. Saint
Andrew’s Burying-Ground was opened in 1837, and from that date until now
(1875) over nineteen thousand interments have taken place in it. I might
state how the sextons have managed to crowd a number nearly equal to the
entire present population of the town into such a small area, but the
subject is a disagreeable one, and therefore I decline. I this
burying-ground there are several neat monuments and many handsome
head-stones, but none commemorating any very remarkable individual. There
is a stone to the memory of Thomas Hendrie, who was sexton in Saint
Andrew’s for thirty-five years. He died in April, 1874, at the ripe age of
seventy-five. A relative of his kindly allowed me to examine the graveyard
books, and I find that during the time he held office he buried no less
that than 17,605 bodies. He delighted to speak of his "yard," and nothing
gave him greater pleasure than to recount incidents of his life as a
gravedigger. Often have I listened to him with a kind of shudder, but
although some-what eccentric on this point the was nevertheless a decent,
honest old man. He used to boast of the quality of the earth in Saint
Andrew’s, and declare that it was so dry that it was fit for Queen
Victoria to lie in. I have heard it said that he carried a sample of it in
his vest pocket, but I rather think he was too sensible a man for that.
Adjoining Saint Andrew’s
Burying-Ground is Saint Andrew’s Established Church (the Rev. Thomas
Martin’s). It was built in 1841, and is a plain square block, with a
belfry. Near to it Milldykes merges into Bentinck Street, opposite East
Netherton. The houses in East Netherton are mostly thatched cottages. It
is a very old street, and was at one time almost entirely occupied by
weavers. Carpets were woven in it, and in reference to this Burns in his
"Ordination," when speaking of the Rev. Mr Roberson, says--
"Or, nae reflection on
you lair,
You may commence a shaver;
Or to the Netherton repair,
And turn a carpet weaver."
Turning down Bentinck
Street, I pass Kay School, a Gothic building similar to the one already
noticed in Wellington Street. It is surrounded by a spacious playground.
In 1872 Bentinck Street was extended to East Shaw Street. This was a
much-needed improvement, for it cleared away an unsightly old printwork,
and opened what yet will become a handsome thoroughfare.
Arriving in East Shaw
Street, I turn down in Glencairn Square. East Shaw Street has not an
elegant appearance; the houses are, with few exceptions, one-storyed and
covered with thatch. Environed with pleasant grounds, in this neighborhood
is Shawbank, the handsome villa of Mr James Wilson, Irvin, and beyond it
there is a fine view of an extensive tack of open country. There also
stands the hydraulic engineering works of the Glenfield Iron Company; they
employ about one hundred and fifty hands , and carry on a large export
trade.
Entering Glencairn Square,
I pause to look about me before turning my face toward the Cross. The
square is spacious, but the building in it, with two or three exceptions,
are thatched, low-roofed, dingy dwellings. Four streets branch off it,
viz., High Glencairn Street, Low Glencairn Street, and East and West Shaw
Streets. These streets are parallel to each other. High and Low Glencairn
streets form part of the main artery of the town. Intersecting Glencairn
Square, the thoroughfare passes through the adjacent village of Riccarton
and on to Ayr. In Low Glencairn Street are situated the works of the Water
Meter Company; they employ about one hundred and thirty hands, and carry
on an extensive business in the manufacture of meters alone. At the foot
of the same street are the Holm Foundry and the engineering works of
Messrs Barclays & Co. At the foot of West Shaw Street is the carpet and
rug factory of Mr John Wilson. The works, which are pretty expansive, are
situated near the Kilmarnock Water, and close to the residence of the
proprietor.
Glencairn Square, and also
the handsome line of street--nearly three-quarters of a mile in
length--that passes through it, were opened up in 1765 by William,
thirteenth Earl of Glencairn, who acquired the lands and superiority of
Kilmarnock in 1749. Upon his acquisition this nobleman did much to improve
the town, and none of the many schemes he entered into for the purpose
have been more beneficial to the community than his doing away with the
tortuous narrow path which connected Kilmarnock with Riccarton, and
opening a highway that has been compared by an eminent topographist to
Leith Walk.
In April 1800, many of the
houses in Glencairn Square were destroyed by fire. AT that date a
malt-house stood next door to the old school-house in East Shaw Street,
and by the overheating of one of its kilns the place took fire. Tongues of
flame shot through the roof, which like those in its vicinity was covered
with thatch, and rendered combustible by continuous dry weather seized
upon the school, lapped up every thing flammable, gathered into a huge
mass of fire, voraciously leaped from roof to roof, rounded the corner of
the square, and passed down Low Glencairn Street on its course of
devastation; nor was it stayed until it had left thirty-five dwellings a
smoking mass of ruins, and rendered nearly eight families homeless and
destitute who two hours previous had not dreamt of danger or misfortune.
[A landlord of one of the burned houses in Low Glencairn Street
wished to get rid of an obnoxious
tenant, but failing to give him notice to quit at the proper time the
individual refused to give up the house. This of course, caused a dispute
between the parties; but the landlord had his revenge, for when the flames
laid hold of the building he thrust his head into the door of the house,
and in the most sarcastic manner cried, "Sit still noo, John; sit still
and be d---d to ye."]
An appeal that was made to
the public for subscriptions to aid the sufferers from the calamitous
catastrophe was liberally responded to, and they were aided to tide over
what would have been to many of them absolute ruin. Many of the weavers
and shoemakers of the Holm were zealous Radicals, and in the year 1819
they were so persuaded that nothing but physical force would ever compel
the Government to listen to the cry of the people, that they
collected all the swords, guns, pistols, and pikes they could lay hand on,
it the expectation that a general rising would take place. The men of the
Holm quarter, however, were not the only individuals engaged in those
warlike preparations, for nearly the whole of Kilmarnock, and a great
portion of the people of the West of Scotland, were affected with the same
mania. An assimilation of opinions naturally draw men together, and the
Radicals of the Holm met during meal-times and spare house in the evenings
in Glencairn Square to take into consideration and discuss the affairs of
the nation. These meetings were the origin of what was known in after
years as the "the Holm Parliament;" and no man was more respected in them
than the late worthy James, or, as he was generally called, ‘Colonel"
Osborne. He was looked to as a kind of authority in matters of politics,
and was generally the principal speaker. The reason he was daubed
"Colonel" was that he was appointed commander of a party of Radicals who
attended a county meeting at Ayr in November, 1819. They met in Glencairn
Square, and having been put in marching order by the "Colonel" he cast his
eye along the line, and with a flourish of his staff and in a voice of
thunder gave the word "March." The procession, which was preceded by two
females bearing a cap of Liberty on a pole, moved forward to the strains
of music, and passed through Riccarton with banners flying.
On the morning of the 14th
April, 1820, when the Edinburgh Yeomanry Cavalry invaded the town,
Glencairn Square presented an unusual appearance. Members of the corps
rode up and down it and the adjoining streets with drawn sabres, and would
allow no one to leave their houses until a search for suspected persons
had been completed. The enthusiasm of the Radicals was on the wane that
morning, for there was a general scramble amongst them to gain Caprington
Woods or any other place of concealment.
"The Holm Parliament"
continued its standings in
Glencairn Square for fifty-two
years, but time cooled the enthusiasm and silvered the hair of many of its
members, and death and removals to other districts so thinned its numbers
that it gradually dissolved. The "Colonel" continued a prominent speaker
of the "Parliament," and lived to see many political changes; and when age
and infirmities began to tell him he was considerately accommodated with a
chair, and the knights of the shuttle, and the awl crowded round him and
fought with voice and gesture the battles of the House of Commons over
again. The "Colonel" remained a Radical to the end of the chapter, and
died in March, 1859, aged seventy-eight.
From the Square I pass up
High Glencairn Street and arrive at East and West Netheron Streets. In
West Netherton stands the extensive power-loom factory of Messrs T. & J.
Ferguson. AT the Nethertons Titchfield Street begins, but like Glencairn
Street, it possesses few modern buildings/ Behind is the village of
Riccarton, and beyond it the romantic hills of Craigie. In front, and
looking as if it blocked up the thoroughfare, stand the Relief, or--beg
its pardon--King Street United Presbyterian Church, with its tapering
spire. On my right is the Balleon Braw, a row of old thatched cottages
that stand above the level of the road. Opposite is the neat mansion of
Ex-Provost Dickie, with a lamp in front of it, on top of which is the "loupin’
hand." Mr. Dickie filled the civic chair for thirteen years, and for a
long period has taken a deep interest in the welfare of the town. Upon his
retirement from the Provostship he was presented with a handsome
testimonial by the member of the Council and other friends. Passing
onward, a sharp walk bring me to the entrance of King Street. Branching
off to the right is Fowlds and Saint Andrew Streets. In the first-named is
Free Saint Andrew’s Church, a large, gloomy-like building. Beyond it is
the Meeting-House of the Original Seceders, and farther on, on the same
side, is the Baptist Chapel. It is of recent erection, and is a neat
little place of worship. The second-named street is undergoing a
transformation. Building are springing up rapidly, and new streets
are being formed off it in the direction of the Newton. A short distance
up King Street I pause before the Presbyterian Church referred to above.
It stands at the corner of Saint Marnock Street, and is a beautiful
building of a mixed kind of architecture. From the centre of its front
towers a graceful spire, one hundred and twenty-six feet in height, which
gives to the whole structure an imposing appearance. This church is well
attended, and internally it is commodious and neatly fitted up. It was
erected in 1832. The present minister is the Rev. Alexander Brown. There
is little of importance connected with the history of its congregation.
Its founders were a few individuals who left the Parish Church of
Riccarton, in 1798, because the patron denied them the choice of a
minister. Erecting a meeting-house in the village, at the top of New
Street, they worshipped in it until the year 1814, when they removed to
Kilmarnock, having built a church on the spot that the present building
occupies. The reason of the change was that their numbers had greatly
increased, and the augmentation coming principally from Kilmarnock they
considered it prudent to have their place of worship more central. The
congregation after its removal rapidly increased, and the new church
becoming too small it was pulled down, hence the erection of this
commodious building.
I now pass up King Street,
which is the principal business thoroughfare of the town. It is broad,
well paved, and regularly built, and is line on either side with large and
roomy shops. On my right I pass the Post-Office, a miserable-looking place
of the kind, and anything but a credit to town of the size and importance
of Kilmarnock. Higher up on the same side, and near to the entrance of the
Cross, stands the Council House. It is built on the top of the arch
through which the Kilmarnock Water flows on its way through the town. It
was erected in 1805, and is a plain, graceful building of two storeys. The
ground floor is occupied by shops; the upper floor contains the Town Hall,
Town Clerks’ Office, and a waiting room. The hall is small, and only
capable of seating little over two hundred individuals. In it are held the
Police and Justice of Peace Courts. The walls are decorated with beautiful
portraits in oil. One is that of Sir James Shaw in his Lord Mayor’s robes;
another that of Sir John Dunlop of Dunlop, the first M. P. for the
Kilmarnock District of Burghs; a full length of the late Earl of Eglinton,
and a well-executed likeness of the poet Burns by Willaim Tannock, after
Nasmyth’s celebrated picture. Leisurely strolling along the street, I once
more enter the Cross, and again make it my starting-point. |