Rise and Progress of Kilmarnock--The
Cross--Flesh Market Bridge--Corn Exchange--Clerk's Lane--Fore St.--High
Church and Burying Ground--King Street--Wellington Street--Fever
Hospital--Portland Street.
Before starting on a ramble
through Kilmarnock, I deem it necessary to give a sketch of the
town in former times, seeing that it owes much of its present prosperity
to the enterprise of days gone by. The knowledge that "Auld Killie" may be
justly considered the metropolis of Ayrshire may suggest comparisons
highly satisfactory to our sense of vanity, and the glories of progress,
but let it not be forgotten that all things of which we may be inclined to
boast will have their day, and that nothing is immutable below,
"The
glories of our birth and state
Being shadows, not substantial things."
With this simple
introduction, then, I open my subject by stating that the origin of the
town is shrouded in obscurity. It is generally supposed that an early
promoter of Christianity named Saint Marnock built a church and therein
expounded the tenets of his creed. Houses in time sprang up in its
vicinity and formed a village, which gradually increased into the
proportions of a town.
As far back as authentic
history goes, Kilmarnock seems to have been under the feudal jurisdiction
of the Lords Boyd, who were barons of the district, and dwelt in Dean
Castle, the ruins of which still stand in a vale on the bank of the
Kilmarnock Water, about a mile and a-half north-east of the town. In 1591
it was created a burgh of barony, and in 1672 a second charter was
conferred upon it, that endowed it with further privileges. In 1609
Timothy Pont visited it when surveying Cunninghame, and makes mention of
it thus:-- "Kilmernock-toune and kirk--is a large village, and of great
repaire. It hath in it a weekly market; it hat a faire stone bridge over
the river Mernock, vich glyds hard by the said toune till it falles in the
river Irving. It hath a pretty church, from which the village, castlle, and
lorschipe takes its name," &c. At that early date Kilmarnock seems to have
been a place of considerable importance, manufactures being carried on to
some extent in it. in 1695 the first magistrates were appointed; these
were chosen by the Superior from a list presented to him by the Council
annually. This system continued until 1745, afterwards the Council
appointed the bailies.
Kilmarnock did not make
much progress as a town until the middle of the eighteenth century, or
until after it was freed from baronial jurisdiction; then it began to
prosper civically and commercially. About this time, the author of "The
History of Kilmarnock" says, "the town presented a mean and inelegant
appearance. The streets were crooked and narrow; the houses were low and
poorly lighted; and to many of them that were two storeys high were
attached outside stairs that not only confined the already limited
thoroughfares, but gave to the houses themselves a rude and clumsy aspect.
The principal streets at that time were those now called High Street,
Soulis Street, Fore Street, Back Street, Croft Street, Strand Street, and
Sandbed Street, which, with some buildings at the Cross, Netherthonholm,
and a few back tenements and lanes, formed the whole of the town." In
1777, or nearly fifty years after the introduction of the manufacture of
woollen fabrics, Loch in his "Essays" makes mention of it as a place of
considerable manufacturing importance, and states that it was possessed of
two hundred and forty looms for the weaving of silk, sixty for the weaving
of carpets, forty for the weaving of linen, thirty for the weaving of
blankets, thirty for the weaving of serges and shalloons, twenty for the
weaving of duffles, and six stocking frames; also of being possessed of
two tanyards and a good trade in shoes. As business increased so grew the
population, and from an obscure village Kilmarnock came to be the most
important town in Ayrshire. Dr. Webster states that the town "in 1763
contained nearly 5000 inhabitants; in 1792, 6776; in 1801, 8079; in 1811,
10,148; in 1821, 12,769; in 1831, 18,093; in 1841, 19,398." In 1871 it
numbered 23,709. In the Edinburgh Magazine for July, 1831, there is
an article which gives some curious statistical information. I make the
following extract:--"In Kilmarnock about 1200 weavers and 200 printers are
engaged in the manufacture of harness and worsted printed shawls. From
31st May, 1830, to June 1, 1831, there were no less than 1, 128,814 of
these shawls manufactured, the value of which would be about £200,000. In
the manufacture of Brussels, Venetian, and Scottish carpets and rugs, the
quality and patterns of which are not surpassed by any in the country,
there are upwards of 1000 weavers employed. The annual amount of this
important branch of manufacture cannot be less than £100,000. About
2400 pairs of boots and shoes are made every week, of which three-fourths
are for exportation; annual value about £32,000. The manufacture of
bonnets is also extensive, there being upwards of 224,640 yearly made by
the corporation, and annual value of which is £12,000. The number of sheep
and lamb skins dressed annually exceeds 140,000."
Since that time the
advancement of mechanical science and the appliance of machinery has in a
manner revolutionised the trades of the country, and weaving and
block-printing have received an irreparable shock in Kilmarnock, as
elsewhere. The sound of the shuttle has now a faint echo in her streets,
and block-printing is all but extinct; but for the manufacture of carpets
Kilmarnock is still a rival to Brussels and other more pretentious seats
of this industry. Within the last thirty years prodigious advances in
business and manufactures have been made. Engineering, and also brass and
iron founding, have been added to the trades of the town to such an extent
that it is better known now-a days by such products than for carpets and
bonnets. Within the same period the old portion of the town has in a great
measure been swept away or remodelled. New streets and new localities have
been formed, and the Kilmarnock of to-day may be said to be a minor city;
but I will now conclude this imperfect sketch and start on a ramble
"Through a' the streets and
neukas o'Killie,"
and thereby convey to the
reader some idea of the present appearance of the town.
The Cross being the great
local centre, I will make it the starting-point; but as it is possessed of
considerable historic interest, perhaps a few words regarding it may not
be inappropriate. Kilmarnock Cross is most spacious, although of a most
peculiar form, having no less than seven streets branching off it. In the
centre stands a marble statue of Sir James Shaw, who rose from a humble
position to that of Lord Mayor of London. He was born in the parish of
Riccarton in 1764, and died in 1843. The statue was erected in 1848. The
form of the Cross has been compared to the turned-up root of an old tree,
but a nearer comparison, I think, is the right hand palm downwards, with
the fingers extended and spread out, the index finger being held in a line
with the wrist. The wrist represents King Street; the thumb, Cheapside
Street; the index finger, Portland Street; the mid finger, Fore Street;
the one next to it, Regent Street; and the little finger, Duke Street. To
account for Waterloo Street you must add an imaginary finger, or get some
one with six, the illustration will be complete. The appearance of the
Cross is not inelegant; it contains some fine shops, and the principal
streets leading off it are wide and spacious. Looking up Portland Street,
which is a handsome thoroughfare, the George Hotel stands prominently out.
Looking down King Street, which is similar in appearance, the eye rests on
the Council Buildings, the Relief Church, and the hills of Craigie in the
distance. I Cheap-side Street and the old tower and the clock of the Laigh
Kirk present themselves, and in looking along Duke Street the principal
object that arrests attention is the Corn Exchange. At an early period a
corn mill stood in the Cross, the wheel of which was driven by a lade
connected with the river. In the southern corner of the Cross John
Nisbet was executed in 1683. The spot where the gallows stood is marked
with white stones, which are best seen in wet water. Nisbet was a
Covenanter, and was accused of being concerned in the rising at Bothwell,
and refusing to give information regarding the whereabouts of certain of
his friends. Every step of the ladder he considered to be a step nearer
Heaven. Tradition has it that the crowd at the execution was so great that
the roofs of the houses were covered with people who were anxious to get a
glimpse of the martyr. There is a stone in the Low Church burying ground
to his memory which will be noticed hereafter. In 1740 "the roaring game"
was practised in the Cross by some ingenious curlers, who obtained water
from a pump and retained it by daming. Previous to 1802 the Cross was
confined and inconvenient, but power from Parliament being obtained to
improved the town, many of the houses were torn down and the area widened.
In 1804 King Street was opened up, and shortly afterward Portland Street
was formed. Duke Street was formed in 1859 and opened with civic honours, a
procession headed by the Provost and Town Council walking along it. In
April, 1820, the town was invaded by a regiment of Edinburgh Yeomanry
Cavalry, who placed a loaded cannon at the Cross ready for execution while
a search for Radicals was going on. The scene at the Cross that day was
one to be remembered, and many still living recollect it.
In the summer of 1830 Green
the aeronaut ascended in a balloon from the Cross amidst the acclamations
of assembled thousands. The Magistrates and Council, who superintended the
affair, had barricades erected at all the entrances, intending to make a
charge for admission; but the people, upon the example being set, broke
them down and thronged the reserved ground. In December, 1808, in a
passage called Nailer's Close, that led from the Cross to Green Street,
but which has been removed by the formation of Duke Street, a soldier was
mortally stabbed by a deserter. The ruffian escaped and was never more
heard of, although a reward of twenty pounds was offered for his
apprehension. A knife that was supposed to belong to the assassin was
afterwards found sticking in a tree in the neighborhood. By the
over-flowing of the Kilmarnock Water the Cross was flooded to the depth of
about four feet on the morning of the 14th July, 1852. I will close this
brief notice with an account of the ludicrous battle, known as "the Sour
Milk Rebellion," that took place in the Cross in 1829. At that period the
farmers who drove their milk into the town vended it at the Cross [The
Cross was the market place of the town. Stalls stood in it for the
sale of vegetables, fish, "blackman,"
&c, and on market days boots, shoes, and other articles of domestic use
were sold.], and from a dozen to
eighteen carts thronged the area every morning. The farmers agreeing
amongst themselves to raise the price of sour milk by reducing the measure
intimated their intention to the guidwives of "Auld Killie," who
strenuously denounced and opposed what they considered "an extortion."
Combining, they refused to purchase sour milk until the old measure was
restored, and threatened to smash both the jug and head of any one who
should pay the increased price. Their threats were in some instances
carried into effect, and the uproar occasioned brought business to a
standstill, for amazons flocked from all quarters to the scene of the
disturbance. An officious Bailie, accompanied by a town office (there were
no police then) made his appearance with the intention of restoring order.
Matters now became worse, a general row commence, in which the sour milk
taps were set running, and wherever the Bailie and his men went they were
hustled by the dames and well soused with canfuls of the liquid until they
were half-blinded and drenched to the skin. Crestfallen and whitewashed
with the milk they made a hasty retreat amid the jeers and laughter, and
left the Cross in the hands of the rioters. It is needless to say that the
old measure was restored. a similar rebellion took place in the town about
thirty years ago. I might mention several meal mobs that gathered in the
Cross, but space forbids.
Turning Mr. M'Kie's corner
I enter Waterloo Street, which is narrow, but widens as it reaches
Fleshmarket Bridge. The houses are dingy and ol-fashioned in appearance.
It was in Waterloo Street the first edition of the poems of Robert Burns
was printed. The house in which the printing office was is said to be that
on the left hand side of the Star Inn Close. This circumstances has
entwined Kilmarnock inseparably with the memory of Burns.
In November, 1807, two
women were found murdered in the back apartment of the shop in Waterloo
Street, at the corner of the bridge. Two men were tried for the crime but
acquitted. Here the Flesh Market Bridge spans the Kilmarnock Water, and
connect Waterloo Street with Market Place. One the bridge there is a row
of shops, and here, as the name implies, the Flesh Market was held. Space
is so valuable that a great portion of the stream as it passes through the
townis arched over and built on. The principal erections are the Council
House and Police Offices. The bridge bears the following
inscription:--"Flood 14th July, 1852," which refers to one of the greatest
calamities that ever visited Kilmarnock. In consequence of a waterspout or
extraordinary rainfall at an early hour on the morning of the above date
the usually placid Kilmarnock Water rose far above its banks, and rolled
in a torrent along the course of its channels, sweeping before it almost
everything that obstructed its progress. Large boulders were rolled by the
current as if they had been pebbles, and trees, rock-rooted, that had
withstood many a stor, were torn from their beds and whirled along by the
eddy, like twigs. Machinery was washed out of work-shops, furniture out of
houses, and good out of stores. Walls, houses, and bridges were swept
away, and the lives of many of the townspeople were jeopardised. The water
in the street at Flesh Market Bridge was five and a half feet deep. It
poured up Waterloo Street, Guard Lane, and Market Lane, flooded the Cross,
and rushed in a torrent down King Street, bearing on is bosom tables and
chairs, and many articles out of shops, the doors of which had been burst
open by the force of the flood. The value of the property destroyed within
the Parliamentary bounds was estimated at £15,000. Passing along Waterloo
Street the view on the opposite side of the stream embraces Tankardha'
Brae and two or three tall factories that raise themselves against the
steep bank that rises conically from the channel. It is said that stage
coaches to and from London used to pass up and down the Tankardha' Brae,
but the path is so steep and narrow that it is difficult to conceive how
the feat was accomplished.
Turning into Green Street I
pass the Butter Market, where maids and matrons from the country dispose
of their butter, eggs, and poultry on market days, and arrive in Duke
Street, pausing before the entrance to the Corn Exchange Hall.
The Corn Exchange is the
finest structure in the town, if not in the whole county. It is situated
at the corner of Green Street and London Road, and extends one hundred and
thirty-six feet along the first-mentioned thoroughfare, and ninety-two
along the latter. It is two storied, and the style of the architecture is
Italian. Above the hall entrance there is a tower one hundred and ten feet
high, surmounted with three clock dials. The tower is called the Albert
Tower and was erected by public subscription to the memory of the late
Prince Consort. The building was opened in September, 1863. The under
storey consists of shops, and in the upper storey are the Kilmarnock
Library, Athenaeum, Reading-room, and two small offices which are allotted
to the Registrar and Sanitary Inspector. Attached is the Butter Market.
The hall is spacious, and seated for twelve hundred. It has a commodious
gallery, and behind the platform there is a large finely-toned organ that
cost £800, and which is held by trustees for behoof of the public.
I now pass along Duke
Street, which, as already stated, was opened for traffic in 1859. It forms
a direct communication from the Cross to London Road, instead of the
tortous approach by Waterloo Street. The street is wide. One side is
occupied by a row of handsome buildings, the other as yet is only partly
built on. The corner block which faces the Cross is, in an architectural
point of view, very chaste in design. Passing Regent Street, I pass
through the Cross and enter Fore Street, or, as it is generally termed,
the Fore-gate; but before proceeding on my way I will say a word about
Clerk's Lane Church, which is situated in Regent Street, and seen from the
corner of Duke Street. Clerk's Lane Church is at present an Evangelical
Union place of worship, and the pastor is the Rev. Robert Hislop. The
building originally belonged to a sect called "Antiburghers." It is a
plain block, with something resembling a flower-pot in front of it, close
to which stands a house that was at one time the manse. Several eminent
divines have laboured in Clerk's Lane Church, not the least of whom was
the Rev. James Robertson: he was ordained in 1777 and died in 1811.
Although of scholastic attainments, he was most eccentric in his habits,
and often pointed and personal in his discourse. Many anecdotes are
preserved regarding him, only one of which space permits me to
relate:--When preaching one day on the Atonement, he observed two
individuals in his audience who had failed in business, and met the
demands of their creditors--one with five shillings in the pound, and the
other with two and sixpence. "Christ paid it all," said he: then with a
fixed look at the one bankrupt and then at the other, he added, "it wasna
five shillings in the pound Christ paid, O no; nor was it to and sixpence
in the pound, but the whole pound; and that's what every man who wishes to
be considered honest should do."
It was in the Clerk's Lane
Church that the celebrated Dr Morison was tried by the Presbytery in 1841.
He was plain Mr then, and in the morning of manhood. He had published a
pamphlet which many considered contained doctrines that were at variance
with the Confession of Faith. He also took a more liberal view of
the Atonement of Christ than divines were wont to do, and did not hesitate
to preach his opinions from the pulpit. Of course he was reformer, and
like all who interfere with use and wont, he suffered. The Presbytery got
wind of his heresy; he was tried, and suspended; he appealed to the Synod;
it sustained the decision, and ultimately expelled him from the Secession
Church. The trail began in the morning, and lasted until midnight. Mr
Morison spoke for five hours in his own defence. His address was earnest
and eloquent, so much so that he carried the sympathies of the majority of
the audience with him. During the trial the excitement throughout the town
was intense. Prayer meeting were held in various quarters to beseech the
Almighty to sustain and uphold him, and the church was so packed that
several of the pews were broken down, while hundreds who were unable to
gain admission blocked up the lane. I need not state how Mr Morison rose
Phoenix-like, how he laboured in fitting students for the ministry, and
founded the denomination known as the Evangelical Union.
I elbow my way along the
Foregate--which, by-the-bye, is a narrow, confined thoroughfare, lined on
both sides with low-roofed, old-fashioned houses. Their ground floors are
mostly occupied with brokers' shops, at the doors of which furniture, old
boots, and clothing of every description are exposed for sale. Strange
smells greet the nostrils, and stranger sights the vision. Here unwashed
children gambol in the gutter, and poverty-stricken men and women jostle
each other as they pass up and down. Notwithstanding all this, the
Foregate was at one time a most respectable street, and the first families
lived in it. A short distance along it, on the left, there is a roofless
ruin of a house, and behind it a store. On the site of this store stood a
two-storied thatched cotage, with a court in front of it. It was taken
down in June, 1863, and while workmen were engaged in its demolition, one
of them discovered a leathern bag in a hole beneath the thatch. On being
lifted out it burst, and a quantity of silver coins showered from it,
which created a general scramble, in which every one engaged who was
conveniently near. The coins were about the size of our present five
shilling pieces, and were supposed to amount to several hundreds. Why the
came to be there is an insoluble mystery. The house was at one time an
inn, but this fact does not account for the hidden treasure. The coins,
however, were possessed of a language. They were principally of the reign
of Charles the First and Charles the Second, which intimates the era of
the Persecution, when bloodshed and robbery were perpetrated to drive
terror into the hearts of inoffensive people, and compel them to square
their creed to Act of Parliament. Any one at all acquainted with the
history of Kilmarnock must be aware of the atrocities committed in the
town about this time; therefore it is not at all improbable that the
concealer of the bag left the house--which was probably was his or her
home--and never returned; that banishment or death for ever separated the
individual from the town, and that the secret of the concealment was
swalled up in the oblivion of the grave.
Opposite the old building
referred to is Caprington Close, so called from the circumstance of a
cadet of the Caprington family having resided in it in those days when
"Lairds sae spruce,
an' leddies braw,
Proudlly thronged the Foregate."
Next to it is a public
house, styled Kay's Tavern. The building is modern, and stands on the site
of a low-roofed, thatched cottage, wherein Mr Kay, the testator of a large
sum of money for schools and a public park, is alleged to have been born.
Picking my steps along this
ancient street for some distance, and squeezing through the crowd of
slatternly women and lazy, lounging men gathered round a ballard-singer, I
pass Bond Lane, a vile-looking passage, then New Street--which,
by-the-bye, has every appearance of being a very old street--and step into
Soulis Street, which is just a continuation of the Foregate. Passing
Paddy's Close, a cluster of houses that still retain a look of faded
grandeur, I pass under an arch of the railway viaduct that spans the
street, and emerge into a more respectable-looking locality.
A little up the street, on
the left, stands the High Church. It is surrounded by a burying-ground. In
the wall that separates it from the street there is a niche in which
stands a fluted pillar, surmounted by an urn. Over the whole there is a
kind of pediment, on which the following inscription is graven:--
"To the memory of Lord Soulis, A. D.
1444.
Erected by subscription, A. D. 1825.
'The days of old to mind I call.'"
Prior to this monument, a
rude stone pillar, surmounted by a cross which was much decayed and
time-worn, stood in the middle of the street. The circumstances that the
monument commemorates is merely traditionary, and to the effect that Lord
Soulis was an English nobleman who was shot by an arrow from the bow of
one of the Boyds of Dean Castle. It is said that Boyd fired the fatal shot
from the opposite bank of the Kilmarnock Water, which flows in the
vicinity. In the centre of the street there is a diamond figure in the
causeway, which marks the spot where the ill-fated Soulis fell. The
grave-yard contains many handsome tomb-stones. One of the polished granite
bears the following inscription:-- "Sacred to the memory of Thomas
Kennedy, water meter manufacturer, who died 6th Sept., 1874, aged 77
years------." Thomas Kennedy was not, strictly speaking, the
inventor of the water meter, yet it was owing to his persistent
perseverance that the wonderful piece of mechanism was brought to its
present state of perfection. In the infancy of the invention, difficulties
were encountered and obstacles met with that would have disheartened any
ordinary man, and had it not been for him a water meter manufactory would
never have been in Kilmarnock. He added much to the trade and importance
of the town, and the extensive work in Low Glencairn Street are his best
monument. Meters of his patent are in use in all quarters of the civilised
world.
The eccentric Rev. James
Robertson that I mentioned in connection with Clerk's Lane Church is
interred here. There is a handsome stone to his memory. Here also lie the
remains of John Wilson, the printer of the first edition of the poems of
Burns. He was, as every reader of Burns is aware, unmercifully lampooned
by the bard in the following epitaphical stanza:--
HIC JACET WEE JOHNNIE.
"Whoe'er thou art, oh reader know,
That death has murder'd Johnnie!
And here his body lies fu' low--
For saul he ne'er had ony."
There is another stone I
may mention. It is "to the memory of Robert Laurie, Waterlooman, late of
the Scots Greys." It is stated by William Scott Douglas, in his little
work on the County of Ayr, that this individual acquired a small property
adjoining the churchyard, and felt a great desire that his bones should
repose at the back of his house. But a trifling obstacle lay in the way of
accomplishing his purpose. His father, John Laurie, was buried in the
Laigh Kirkyard, and Robert disliked the idea of being separated from him
in death. The method he adopted to reconcile matters was very singular.
After procuring a lair on the desired spot, he erected a fine stone, with
inscription to his father's memory and his own, and proceeded under cloud
of a winter evening to the Laigh Kirkyard, where he dug up his father's
bones and carried them away in a bag. Being thirsty by the way after his
resurrection feat, he stepped into a public house and refreshed himself
with liquor, placing the bag of bones by his side. How long he sat we have
not been told; but eventually he got his father fairly buried in the other
church-yard close to his own house, and he used to boast in his cups that
he once sat and drunk in a public house, in the company of his father,
many years after his father's death.
The High Church stands in
the centre of the burying ground, and bears the date 1732. It is a large,
plain, square building, with a spire in which there are clock dials. When
viewing Kilmarnock from the vicinity of the Townhead it is a prominent
object. In 1731 the population had so increased that the Parish Church was
found insufficient, and the Town Council resolved to erect an additional
church in consequence. The scheme met with the approval of the Earl of
Kilmarnock and Mr. Orr of Grougar, who between them contributed 1000 merks
towards the fund. The Town Council gave £30 sterling, and the rest was
raised by subscription. The building, exclusive of the spire, cost £850.
The Earl, besides his subscription, gave the ground at the nominal feu-duty
of one penny Scots, which was to be paid at a certain spot "if asked."
Upon the erection of the
new kirk the ministers of the old preached by turns in it, but in 1764 a
clergyman was appointed to the charge, and in 1811 the union between the
old and new churches was severed by the latter being created a parish
church. The diocese was termed 'The High Kirk Parish." Such is a brief
outline of the origin and history of the High Church. Amongst the early
ministers of the High Church may be mentioned the Rev. John Russell, who
is said to have established the first Sabbath School in Kilmarnock. He was
robust and very dark complexioned, was a strict disciplinarian, and used
to go through the streets "between the preachings" with a stout stick in
his hand in quest of Sabbath-breakers. His sermons were always
replete with references to the torments in store for the ungodly. He seems
to have thought that terror of future punishment was more conducive to
make men virtuous than appealing to the finer feelings of the breast by
showing that the pleasure of doing good brings its own reward. Burns
refers to him as follows in "The Holy Fair," and no doubt his description
is a correct one:--
"But now the Lord's ain trumpet
touts
Till a' the hills are rairin',
And echoes back return the shouts:
Black Russell is na' spairin';
His piercing words, like Highland swords,
Divide the joints and marrow;
His talk o' hell, where devils dwell,
Our vera sauls does harrow
Wi' fricht that day."
The present minister of the
High Church is the Rev. James Aitken. He takes a deep interest in the
homeless, destitute children of the town, and other matters connected with
it. In the graveyard, a gate opens into Soulis Street, and another into
Back Street. It was in Back Street that Sandy Patrick's bit "public" was
situated. It is said to have been a favourite "ca' house" of the poet
Burns, and that he drank many a social glass of the cap ale that
the landlord brewed on the premises. Recent town improvements have swept
the house away, and left its site an uncertainly.
Leaving the churchyard, I
pass along High Street, and stop before an odd-like building with an
inscription on it stating that it was built in 1705, and rebuilt, 1840.
This is the meal market, a place at which that ingredient which composes.
"The halesome parritch, chief o' Scotia's food,"
was at one time vended; in
fact, it was the only place in the town where it could be procured, for
the Council enacted in 1711 "that all persons sell or retail their meal in
the meal market, and not elsewhere."
Passing Menford Lane,
Townhead Bridge and "Willie Mair's Brae" come in view. From the brae a
beautiful view can be obtained of the ruin of Dean Castle and the valley
stretching before it. Turning into Dean Lane, a steep, narrow
thoroughfare, I come to Boyd Street. It is a very ancient street, and is
lined on either side with old-fashioned houses that speak of "the day o'
auld lang syne." Like Fore Street, it was at one time inhabited by people
who were well-to-do in the world, but it changed days with it now. In this
street the notorious "Timmer Land" is situated. n one of its rooms a man
named Wallace altely dashed the brains of a little child out against the
hearthstone. He was tried for it, and received twenty years' penal
servitude! Twenty years for dashing out a child's brains? Yes, human life
is at a discount, and hanging has become unfashionable. Across the lane
from Boyd Street, on the right, stands a solitary, strange-looking thatch
cottage. It was at one time a toll-house, and stood on the old line of the
road to Glasgow in the days of stage-coaches. The road originally passed
in front of it, and the coaches rattled down Dean Lane, along High Street,
Soulis Street, Fore Street, and into the Cross; and when going to Ayr,
down Sandbed Street and on through Riccarton. Opposite the toll-house is
Gallows-knowe, a place that derives its name from the circumstances that a
gibbet was erected here in the days of feudalism whereon to hang
individuals who were convicted of theft and lesser crimes than the fellow
Wallace received twenty years for. In these days there were nice
distinctions observed. For instance, if a man was convicted of theft he
was hanged, but if woman was convicted of the same offence they drowned
her in a hole that was kept for female malefactors. This was called "pit
and gallows," the power of which was conferred upon the Lords Boyd. The
first Dissenting church in Kilmarnock was built on Gallows-knowe in 1772.
It was taken down in 1861 upon the congregation removing to a more
commodious place of worship in Portland Road.
I now enter Dean Street,
opposite Witch Road. Witch Road is a handsome street of recent
construction. It is said to derive its name from a weird-like path that at
one time existed in its locality, and along which (tradition states) those
convicted of witchcraft were led to execution. Turning into Wellington
Street, I enter what may be appropriately termed the main artery of the
town, and pass on my right the High Church Manse, a quaint building,
surrounded by a garden; and farther down, on my left, Kay School, a pretty
little Gothic structure, with a playground attached. The cost of erecting
this and another school similar to it in Bentinck Street was defrayed from
a legacy of £5000 bequeathed to the town for educational purposes by the
late Mr Kay the location of whose birthplace I pointed out when entering
the Foregate. Besides these buildings, Wellington Street contains some
fine villas and substantial houses of a superior order. At its termination
I pause to view Henderson Church (the Rev. David Landsborough's) and the
Fever Hospital. The first is a plain but neat edifice. It was erected in
1818, and its congregation then formed a splinter off that of Gallows-knowe.
It is at present under the wing of the Free Church. The second is a
beautiful building, in the Frecian order of architecture, and consists of
a centre and two wings. The right wing is recently added; the other
portions were built in 1869. This noble Institution stands on a piece of
rising ground called Mount Pleasant, and from its elevated position has a
handsome appearance. It is wholly supported by subscriptions and donations
bestowed by the benevolent. Since it has been opened three gifts of £500
each have been given to it by natives of Kilmarnock who have realised
competencies. As yet it has never lacked support, and I trust it never
shall, for to many a poor mortal it is a haven in the day of affliction,
and not a few are nurtured and cared for within it when stricken down by
disease who otherwise would pine from want and inattention.
In the vicinity of the
Fever Hospital, but at a higher elevation, stands Saint Joseph's Roman
Catholic Chapel. It was erected in 1847, and occupies a site that
overlooks the town, and commands an extensive view of the surrounding
district. It is attended by a large congregation. The pastor is the Rev.
Peter Forbes.
Wellington Street merges
into Portland Street. Passing along it, the next object that attracts
attention is the Free High Church, a very handsome building of a mixed
kind of architecture. It was erected in 1844 at a cost of £3,000, but
since then it has undergone many alterations and improvements. The Rev.
Thomas Mainmay be said to be its founder. He was some time minister of the
High Church, but seceded from the Establishment in 1843. The present
pastor is the Rev. Ivie M. Maclachlan, B.A.
Passing under the railway
bridge, a short walk brings me to the East an West George Streets. At the
corner of the first named is situated the George Hotel, the largest place
of the kind of town.
Portland Street now assumes
a thorough business aspect. Down to the Cross, where it terminates, both
sides are line with tall buildings, in which there is a continuous row of
well-stocked shops. On the left, a little below East George Street, are
situated the premises of the Kilmarnock Equitable Co-operative Society. On
the ground floor there is a large retail provision store named "the
Central," and two doors from it a shop devoted to cloth and drapery goods.
The flat above "the Central" contains the library, reading-room, and
offices of the Society. The library possesses over one thousand volumes,
and the reading-room is well supplied with newspapers, magazines and
periodicals. Beside "the Central," the Society have seven branch stores
scattered through the town, five of these retail provisions and groceries,
one boots and shoes, and one butcher meat. Their united drawings average
£643 per week. The share capital amounts to £5,424. The turnover for last
year amounted to £30,357, and the divisible profit to £2,286. These
figures will convey to the reader a slight idea of what Co-operation is
accomplishing in Kilmarnock. The business is conducted wholly by working
men--men who have thought out the problem, "What can be done to better the 643 per week. The share capital amounts to £5,424. The turnover for last
year amounted to £30,357, and the divisible profit to £2,286. These
figures will convey to the reader a slight idea of what Co-operation is
accomplishing in Kilmarnock. The business is conducted wholly by working
men--men who have thought out the problem, "What can be done to better the
condition of the working classes?" Co-operation, when conducted on sound
principles, proves that the working classes can better their own condition
morally, physically, and intellectually. The science is but in its
infancy, Co-operators are but feeling their way, but most assuredly as it
gathers strength and expands it will become the germ of that great
Millenium that men are so anxiously looking forward to. Jostling along
Portland Street, there is nothing remarkable beyond what is to be met with
in business thoroughfares in all populous districts, and arrive once more
in the Cross. |