Not discouraged by the reproof conveyed in the
decision of the Assembly, Mr. M'Donald is known in the religious world
for his praiseworthy exertions in various parts of the Highlands, and
particularly in behalf of the previously much-neglected inhabitants of
St. Kilda—the most distant and isolated of all the islands of Scotland.
Commissioned by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, his
first visit was undertaken in 1822, for the purpose of ascertaining the
religious and moral condition of the inhabitants. In his journal, Mr.
M'Donald gives an interesting account of his reception by the natives.
He was accompanied by Mr. M'Lellan, the tacksman of the island; and not
being able to effect a landing on the eastern coast, in consequence of
the boisterous state of the weather, the boat veered round to the
leeward, where shelter was found in an arm of the sea. Upon landing. he
and Mr. M'Lellan walked towards the village, a distance of nearly two
miles. "When descending the brow of the hill above the village," says
the journal, "we observed some person standing without; and. on a
sudden, in consequence, as we afterwards learned, of his sounding the
alarm, all the souls in the village appeared at once—at first flaying in
different directions, until they discovered from what quarter the
strangers were coming, when they made towards us in a body, shook hands
with their tacksman, and welcomed him to the place. After these
salutations were over, he introduced me to them as a minister who had
come to visit them, and was sent by the Society. Upon this they
immediately shook hands with me, as if we had been many years
acquainted; and, 'God bless the Society which sent him, and God bless
him for coming,' was the general exclamation."
Mr. M-Donald remained nearly a fortnight on the
island, during which he embraced ever}'- opportunity of preaching to
them ; and in his private conversations entered so warmly into their
affairs and interests, that when the day of departure came, he had much
difficulty in sustaining the emotions with which the scene overpowered
him. Mr. M'Lellan and lie were accompanied by the inhabitants to the
beach, where they assisted in launching the boat, took an affecting
farewell, and long after the party had bid adieu to the shores of St.
Kilda, they could still see the group of islanders clustering round the
gentle rising ground, gazing as if unwilling to lose sight of their
recent visitors.
The report which Mr. Macdonald submitted to the
Society on his return contains some interesting particulars regarding
St. Kilda and its inhabitants. We need offer no apology for the
following extract:— "The length of the island appears to be about three
miles from the westernmost point to that on the north side of the
eastern bay, and its breadth nearly two miles from north to south. It is
surrounded with high and almost perpendicular rocks, except on the N.W.
and S.E. sides, in each of which there is a small bay, or arm of the
sea; of which the latter alone affords any harbouring place for vessels.
The land is in general rather elevated; and there are three hills of
considerable height. Of these, by far the highest is Cougar, on
the north side, supposed to be upwards of 1400 feet above the level of
the sea; the next, Orwall-hill, on the east; and the third,
Buavcil (Gaelic, Rwadh-mheall), on the south-west side of the
island.
"I could discover no old edifices on this island,
except that called Christ's Church, near the village, and
situated in the burying-ground; and St. Brianan's, a little above the
bay, on the south-west side—both of which are in ruins.
"There are two small islands besides the main one,
which are serviceable to the people for pasture, as well as for the
fowls which frequent them. The one is called Sony, situate on the
west side of St. Kilda, and separated from it by a narrow channel. It is
about a quarter of a mile long, and scarcely half as broad. The other is
Boreray, about four miles in a direct line to the north, and a
little larger than Soay.
"The ground is used chiefly for pasture, and the
islanders keep a stock of sheep and black cattle on it, from which they
are supplied with articles of clothing, milk, butter, cheese, &c. There
is no rnoss on the island, and the only fuel consists of turf cut on the
hills, and carried home as it is needed. The group of houses in which
the people reside, for it scarcely deserves the name of a village, is
situate a little above the eastern bay, and is composed of twenty small
huts, built of stone, and thatched with turf and straw. Being surrounded
with hills on all sides, except the south and south-east, it is pretty
well sheltered, unless when the wind blows from these quarters.
"All the cultivated lands lie around the village in
scattered and irregular patches, of which each family in the island,
about twenty in number, has nearly an equal quantity—what they call a
farthing-land, or something about two acres. This sows about five
firlots of barley and six of oats, which, with potatoes, are the only
crops they raise. Though the soil is naturally rich, yet, owing to want
of good management, it seldom yields above three returns. Hence they
cannot conveniently dispose of much of their grain ; and of late years,
indeed, I believe they have done but very little in this way. Besides,
every three years, these lands pass by lot from one hand to another; a
practice which evidently militates greatly against real improvement. The
grain, also, as might be expected, is rather of an inferior quality. In
making it into meal, they grind it in querns, or little
hand-mill, there being neither windmills nor water-mills in the island.
"Their houses, or huts, are all exactly of the same
form and dimensions, and in internal appearance also completely alike.
They consist of but one apartment, in which the family is accommodated,
at one end, and the cattle at the other. The walls contain their beds
and places for their stores, for which purpose they are generally six or
seven feet thick. No chairs or tables are to be seen; wooden stools and
even stones being made to supply their place. The ashes are never
carried out of the house, nor even removed to the part of the room
appropriated to the cattle, but are spread every morning under the feet
of the inmates, in order, as they call it, to help the manure. The floor
thus raised in the course of the season to a considerable height, is
reduced to its proper level only once a year, when the whole matter so
accumulated is conveyed to the fields. I reasoned with the people on the
impropriety of this habit, chiefly on the ground of its being injurious
to their health and comfort, but to little effect, long custom having
reconciled them to it. As might be expected also, their habits in other
respects, and particularly iu point of cleanliness and dress, are much
of a piece with the interior of their houses, their persons being
extremely dirty, and seeming to undergo no sort of purification, except
once a-week; while their clothes are iu general coarse and ragged,
though, on Sunday, both the young men and women dress a little more
decently. I was somewhat surprised at not finding the kilt and hose
among them, instead of which the men commonly wear a jacket or short
coat, with trousers or pantaloons. There is scarcely anything like
division of labour among them, every man being his own tailor,
shoemaker, and, in most cases, weaver, there being no thorough-bred
workman of any kind iu the island.
" Notwithstanding these habits, it is not a little
remarkable that they enjoy such a degree of health and longevity. During
my residence among them, there was not a single individual in the island
sick or ailing; and the oldest of them, a man of seventy-two, was pretty
healthy and vigorous. A number of their children, however, perhaps two
out of three, die in infancy. This is ascribed to a peculiar disease,
with which they are seized a few days after their birth; but it may be
as much owing to bad management as to anything else. Hence also many of
the mothers die in childbed, from want of proper persons to attend them.
The population of the island, which is at present 108, has been rather
stationary for a considerable period—a circumstance sufficiently
accounted for by the mortality of the children and mothers.
"The chief employment of the men consists in
bird-catching; and the fulmar and solan goose, which
frequent their rocks in immense numbers, are peculiarly serviceable to
them, both as to the payment of their rents, which they generally do
with the oil and feathers, and as to affording them provision; for they
salt the carcasses, and lay them up for winter store. Their mode of
killing these birds is attended with considerable danger; but long
practice has inured them to it, and they seem to be quite fearless in
their enterprises. In some cases they let down each other by ropes,
along a steep rock, two or three hundred feet, while others at the top
are holding the ropes fast, ready to haul up their comrade, loaded with
his prey, whenever he gives them a signal. In most cases, however, they
get at the solan geese without being obliged to have recourse to so
dangerous an experiment. They are fondest of the young ones, as being
the fattest, and generally lodging on the top of the rocks; in
consequence of which, especially before their wings are fully grown,
they are easily taken with the hands, or struck down with bludgeons. So
great is the execution in this way done among them, that on one of the
days I was on the island, the people, in the course of a few hours,
brought home their boats deeply laden with 1200 of them, and left 400
more on the field of action, to be sent for afterwards. When the booty
was brought on shore, it was immediately divided, by lot, into twenty
equal parts, according to the number of the families—a method of
dividing almost every kind of property, to which they have frequent
recourse.
"While their rents are paid chiefly in feathers, they
present to the tacksman of the island all other articles of produce
which it affords, and with which they can conveniently dispense—such as
beef, mutton, cheese, oil, etc.; and for any overplus that remains,
after the amount of the rent is deducted, he gives them value in other
articles which they need—such as printed cloths, handkerchiefs, hats,
indigo, etc., of which he takes with him an annual assortment for their
supply. Hence, a native of St. Kilda can never be rich ; neither, while
he can work, need he ever be poor, or in total want. Money is of little
use to them, except when the tacksman comes round; yet they do not
object to receiving a present of that kind from a friend, when it is put
into their offer.
"The people of St. Kilda have scarcely any tradition
among them relative to their origin or history, further than that their
forefathers came originally from the Western Isles, particularly Uist
and Harris ; that they were Roman Catholics till upwards of a century
ago (I suppose about the Revolution 1688), when the Protestant religion
was introduced among them, and has ever since been the religion of the
island ; that down from that period they had a succession of ministers
or missionaries connected with the Church of Scotland, but of whom, with
the exception of the two last, the late missionary and his father, they
now know nothing but the name; that of old the population was much
larger than it has been of late years; that the decrease has been
occasioned chiefly by the ravages of the smallpox, which, many years
ago, had been brought into the island by some foreign vessel, and had
swept away at once the whole population, excepting four families
; and that though some from the neighbouring isles, who had come to live
among them, have made an accession to their number, yet this catastrophe
had given a death-blow to the population which it has not yet fully
recovered. This is at least a rational account of the matter.
"Their tradition also regarding their origin is
extremely probable; for in language, customs, and manners, and indeed in
every other respect, they bear so complete a resemblance to their
neighbours in the Western Isles, as to leave no room to doubt that they
have originally sprung from them. Besides, the very names which are most
prevalent in these isles—as M'Leod, M'Donald, M'Kinnon, Morrison,
&c—hold the same predominance in St. Kilda, a circumstance which
strongly confirms the supposition. The language they speak is pure
Gaelic, and the dialect that of Uist and Harris. There is, however, a
rapidity, and an indistinctness, if not a degree of lisp, in their
utterance, which makes it rather difficult at first for a stranger to
understand them; but, in the course of a short time, he gets over this
difficulty. Their peculiar employments (as has been already stated)
consist in attending to their little farms, their cattle and sheep, and
preparing a certain quantity of feathers annually for the tacksman,
which may be considered the most arduous and enterprising part of their
work. But I fear they cannot be exempted from the charge of almost
habitual indolence. They are seldom wholly idle ; but when they
are at any work, one would think that they are more anxious to fill
up than to occupy the time. How desirable on this, as well as
on many other accounts, that they might become savingly acquainted with
that gospel, which teaches its true subjects to be diligent in business,
fervent in spirit, serving the Lord !' In this, as in many other
respects, they admit of much improvement; and I have no doubt that,
without interfering with the prerogative of a landlord or tacksman, a
prudent missionary, by his advice and example, might effect much in this
way, as well as in more important respects. If he has a sensible,
judicious wife, too, who would take an interest in the females, it would
be of vast advantage to them ; and such a companion in St. Kilda, I need
scarcely say, would in every respect be an acquisition to his own
comfort."
As anticipated, Mr. M'Donald found the islanders
extremely destitute of religions instruction. They had no place of
worship; and when he addressed them in a body, they assembled in the
barn—an uncomfortable shed which belonged to all in common. But,
although few of them were capable of reading, and consequently
entertained an imperfect notion of the nature of a religions faith, he
admits that in morality of conduct they were at least equal to their
neighbours of the Hebrides; and he found that several vices prevalent in
more refined society were unknown amongst this primitive and secluded
people.
In consequence of the statements furnished by Mr.
M'Donald, a subscription was entered into to erect a place of worship on
St. Kilda, together with a suitable house or manse. While this design
was in contemplation, and before its completion, Mr. M'Donald took other
three journeys to St. Kilda, in the welfare of whose inhabitants he felt
an interest which overcame every fatigue or inconvenience. On one of
these occasions he had the pleasure of laying the foundation stone of
the church destined for their use, and of laying off two acres of ground
as a small glebe, attached to the house of the missionary; and on the
last of his visits he had the peculiar satisfaction to be accompanied by
the Rev. Mr. Neil M'Kenzie and his family, who had been sent out by the
Society, and whom he introduced to the grateful islanders as their
future pastor.
In thus witnessing the accomplishment of au object so
dear to his heart, and the gratitude with which the boon was received,
the joy experienced by Mr. M'Donald may be more easily conceived thau
described. In his journal he thus closes his remarks:—"I have only to
say, in conclusion, that my mind is now relieved from a burden regarding
St. Kilda. The inhabitants are provided with a pastor, who will dispense
the word of life to them, and guide their feet in the paths of peace.
And in this I have got my wish accomplished. I may never see them; but I
shall never cease to pray for them. And may He who ' holds the seven
stars in his right hand, and walks among the golden candlesticks,'
preserve pastor and people, walk among them, and render them permanent
blessings to each other."
Since the translation of Mr. M'Donald to Ross-shire,
he generally revisits Edinburgh at least once a year, on the sacramental
occasion, where he is eagerly welcomed by those who sat under his
ministrations while he officiated as pastor of the Gaelic Chapel, thus
affording an honourable testimony to his worth. He was twice
married—first to Miss Georgina Ross, of Gladneld, Ross-shire, who died
in 1814, and by whom he had two sons and a daughter; secondly, to Miss
Jauet M'Kenzie, daughter to Kenneth M'Kenzie, Esq., of Millbank,
Ross-shire, by whom he has five children alive, two daughters and three
sons. His eldest son, by the first marriage, was sometime pastor of
Chadwell Scots Church, London; but, devoting himself to the conversion
of the heathen, he has since gone to India as a missionary, on the
General Assembly's Scheme.