IT is a curious fact that the
means of producing artificial excitation, or a pleasing flow of animal
spirits, is one of the earliest objects of human solicitude. No sooner
have herds been domesticated and the land brought into cultivation, than
the invention of man discovers the art of preparing an exhilarating
beverage. To the people of the east and the southern countries of Europe,
the vine afforded a delicious treat, the want of which the Gauls and
Britons supplied from grain, and the liquor prepared from it they named
Curmi, a word retained in close resemblance by the Welsh, whose term for
beer is Cwrw; the Gaël have lost this word, but they retain Cuirm, a
feast, and call ale Loinn, the Llyn, or liquor of the former.
It was reserved for the northern
descendants of the Celtic race to improve on the process of fermentation,
and by distilling the Brathleis, or wort, they became the noted preparers
of Uisge beatha. This term is literally "the water of life," corresponding
to Aqua vitae, Eau de vie, &c., and it is from the first portion of the
word that ‘Whiskey’ is derived. It is otherwise called Poit du’, or the
black pot, in the slang vocabulary of the smuggler, the Irish Poteen, or
the little pot, being of similar import.
The superiority of small still
spirits to that which is usually produced in large licensed distilleries,
is supposed to arise from the more equable coolness of the pipe, a regular
supply of spring water being introduced for the condensation of the steam
and the Braich, or malt, is also believed to be of a better quality, being
made in small quantities, and very carefully attended to. As the
preparation of malt for private distillation is illegal, it must be
managed with great secrecy, and the writer has seen the process carried on
in the Eird houses, often found on the muirs, which, being subterraneous,
were very suitable for the manufacture. These rude constructions had been
the store—houses for the grain, to be used in another form, of the
original inhabitants. Whiskey may be sometimes of inferior quality; but
where the people are generally so good judges of its worth it is not
likely that a bad article will be produced, and it may be observed that
the empyreumatic taste, vulgarly called ‘peat reek,’ is a great defect.
Tarruing dubailt is double distilled, Treasturruing, three times, and when
it is wanted to be still stronger, it is "put four times through," and
called Uisge bea’a ba’ol.
From the nature of the traffic, the
most secluded spot is selected for the plantation of the simple
distillery. Caves in the mountains, coiries or hollows in the upland
heaths, and recesses in the glens, are chosen for the purpose, and they
are, from fear of detection, often abandoned after the first ‘brewst.’ The
print exhibits a Whiskey Still at work in a moonlit night, attended by two
gillean, or youths, and the primitive construction of the apparatus is
sufficiently made out. Into the tub, or vessel, through which the ‘worm,’
or condensing pipe is conveyed, although not seen in the picture, there is
a small rill conducted, which, running through, affords a constant supply
of the cold stream.
National as the love of whiskey
appears to be, it is matter of doubt whether it has been long known to the
Highlanders. Some writers seem to have no doubt that the ancient
Caledonians possessed the art of preparing alcohol; but to arrive at the
distillation of spirits an acquaintance with chemistry is requisite, and
society must be in an advanced state of improvement ere such a manufacture
could be attempted. Writers who have directed their attention to the
subject, maintain that no satisfactory proof can be found of whiskey
having been in use at an earlier period than the beginning of the
fifteenth century. Certain it is, that malt liquor formed the chief
beverage of the old Highlanders, who do not seem to have had so fond a
relish for uisge beatha as their successors, and however useful a dram of
good Glenlivet may be in a northern climate, it does not appear that the
present race are more healthy and hardy than their fathers. General
Stewart gives the evidence of a person who died in 1791, at the age of
that lionn-laidir, strong ale, was the Highland beverage in his youth,
whiskey being procured in scanty portions from the low country; yet Prince
Charles, at Coireairg, in 1745, elated to hear that Cope had declined
battle, ordered whiskey for the common soldiers, to drink the general’s
health, which would prove it to have been then plentiful.
Illicit distillation was at one time
perseveringly carried on throughout Scotland, and whiskey was indeed a
staple commodity. Many depended for payment of their rents upon what they
could make by this means, and landlords had obvious reasons to wink at the
smuggling which prevailed with their knowledge to such an extent among
their tenants; some years ago several justices of the peace in
Aberdeenshire were deprived of their commissions, for stating it as
impossible to carry into effect the stringent acts passed for the
suppression of the illegal practice.
In the fastnesses of the Highland
districts it was difficult to discover the bothies, where the work was
carried on, and prudence often forbade the gauger from attempting a
seizure; but in more accessible parts of the country, his keen search
could only be evaded by the utmost vigilance. In Strathdon, Strathspey,
and neighbouring localities, where a mutual bond of protection exists, it
is the practice, when the exciseman is seen approaching, to display
immediately from the house-top, or a conspicuous eminence, a white sheet,
which being seen by the people of the next ‘town,’ or farm steading, a
similar signal is hoisted, and thus the alarm passes rapidly up the glen,
and before the officer can reach the transgressors of the law, everything
has been carefully removed and so well concealed, that even when positive
information has been given, it frequently happens that no trace of the
work can be found.
The life of a smuggler is harassing,
and the system has a demoralising tendency; from the time he commences
malting he is full of anxiety, and the risk he runs of having the proceeds
of his painful labour captured in its transit to the customer is not the
least of his troubles. Sometimes the low-country people will meet the
Highlanders, and purchase the article at their own risk; but it is
generally taken by the latter to the towns, and they travel frequently in
bodies with horses and carts. Information is often obtained of these
expeditions, and the exciseman intercepts it, taking, if necessary, a
party of soldiers; but sometimes, after a severe encounter, the smugglers
have got off, carrying back a portion of the spirits, and, mayhap, leaving
wounded or dead on both sides. When the party reaches the vicinity of a
town the greatest caution must be observed in going about with the sample
of "the dew," and all sorts of expedients are adopted to convey it, when
sold, to the premises of the buyer.