DOWN to the middle of the eighteenth
century, the years 1750 and 1760, very few "self-contained" houses
had been built in Glasgow. The ancient manses of the Cathedral
canons about the Bishop's Castle, Rottenrow, and the Drygate had
mostly fallen on evil days, ["The townhead remained a quiet
semi-rural place from the Reformation of 1560 till the erection of
the first city gasworks in 1823, inhabited by carters, cow-feeders,
and weavers, in strange contrast to the ever-changing, commercial
lower town."—Lugton's Old Ludgings of Glasgow, p. ii.] and the
wealthy merchants of the city lived, like the aristocracy of
Edinburgh till a much later date, in the flats of tenements in the
Goosedubs, Briggate, and the Saltmarket. Among the families who
lived in these quarters were the Campbells of Blythswood and their
relatives, the Douglases of Mains : and the future Duchess of
Douglas—a member of the latter family was one of the belles of
Glasgow who led the dance at the assemblies in the great hall of the
Merchants House in Briggate.
With the rise of wealth, however, came the desire for a more
ceremonious style of living. Men who had travelled abroad, and had
lived in London or Virginia or the West Indies, were no longer
content with family meals in a bedroom and entertaining their guests
in a tavern. Houses of more ambitious sort therefore began to be
built along the Trongate westward. These mansions were of a style of
architecture entirely different from that of the fifteenth and
sixteenth century manses and other dwellings in the Townhead.
Instead of crow-stepped gables and dormer windows, they had
entablatures, urns, and balustraded roofs. [See Swan's Views and
Stewart's Views and Notices.] According to Dr. J. O. Mitchell there
were fifteen of these first rank Georgian mansions built between
1711 and 1780. Of that number only two are still standing in the
twentieth century, the mansion of Allan Dreghorn of Ruchill, behind
a furniture store in Clyde Street, and that of William Cunningham of
Lainshaw, the tobacco magnate, embedded in the Royal Exchange.
The first, and for fifty years the
finest, of these new houses was the Shawfield Mansion, already
referred to, built by Daniel Campbell of Shawfield at the west end
of Trongate in 1711. For more than forty years that mansion remained
without a rival. About 1753, however, Provost Murdoch—he who
accompanied his brother-in-law, Provost Andrew Cochrane, to London
to recover the sum in which the city had been mulcted by the
Jacobite army in 1745—built the mansion which stood opposite—at the
east corner of Stockwell Street—till the end of the nineteenth
century, and was for long the Buck's Head Inn. And next to it Colin
Dunlop, Provost a few years later, built the substantial house
which, with its tympanum front, formed a feature of the Trongate
till well into the twentieth century. [Glasgow and its Clubs, p. 43
note.]
The extension of the city westward
brought about the demolition of an ancient landmark. Of Glasgow's
eight main " ports " or gateways which existed in 1574—the
Stablegreen Port, the Gallowgate Port, the Trongate or West Port,
the South or Water Port, the Rottenrow Port, the Greyfriars Port,
the Drygate Port, and the Port beside the Castlegate [Glasgow and
its Clubs, p. ii.] —the West Port had already been removed from the
neighbourhood of the Tron to the head of the Stockwell. In 1751 it
was ordered to be demolished altogether. [Burgh Records, 22nd Jan.]
The developments which followed,
immediately to the westward, were owed to the civic aristocracy,
whose fortunes were made out of the wonderful trade with Virginia,
and who came to be known as the "tobacco lords." Of these some of
the most notable individuals were the members of the Buchanan
family. Their ancestor was George Buchanan, younger son of the laird
of Gartacharan, near Drymen, who, to push his fortunes, came to
Glasgow in the "killing times," fought for the Covenanters at
Bothwell Bridge, and for a time had a price set upon his head. After
the Revolution he appears as a prosperous maltster, visitor of the
Maltmen, and deacon-convener of the Trades' House. His four sons all
prospered. They were the founders of the Buchanan Society in
1725—George Buchanan of The Moss and Auchentoshan, Andrew Buchanan
of Drumpellier, Archibald Buchanan of Silverbanks or Auchentorlie,
and Neil Buchanan of Hillington in Renfrewshire, M.P. for the
Glasgow burghs. Of these the eldest was a maltman like his father,
city treasurer in 1726, and a bailie in 1732, 1735, and 1738. He
built himself a fine mansion on the north side of the Westergate,
now Argyle Street—on the site occupied later by Messrs. Fraser &
Son's warehouse—and he died, a wealthy merchant, in 1773.
[Curiosities of Glasgow Citizenship, p. 3. The Old Country Houses of
the Glasgow Gentry, p. 186.] His son Andrew, again, born in 1725,
built another mansion a little farther west, and on the four acres
of land behind it planned the modern Buchanan Street. He was ruined
and his plans were interrupted by the American War of Independence,
but these were carried out by the trustees of his estate, one of
whom was the celebrated Robin Carrick of the Ship Bank. The first
house in the street, built about 1777, stood a little north of the
site of the present Arcade, and was that occupied for many years by
John Gordon of Aikenhead. The next was that of his brother
Alexander—"Picture Gordon"—a fine mansion facing the site of the
modern Gordon Street, which was the residence later of Henry
Monteith of Carstairs. [Frazer's Making of Buchanan Street, p. 41.]
Meanwhile the second of the four
brothers, Andrew of Drumpellier, born in 1690, had been among the
first to take advantage of the opening Virginia trade. While still
comparatively young he had five vessels at sea in that business. The
double profits of the outward and inward trade enabled him, like
others of his neighbours, to amass a large fortune in a few years.
He was chosen Dean of Guild in 1728 and Provost in 1740 and 1741. It
was he who in the former year was empowered to borrow £3000 from the
Royal Bank for the purchase of meal to feed the poor of the city.
When the Jacobite army invaded Glasgow in 1745, and its
quarter-master, Hay, demanded £500 from him with the threat that, if
he refused, his house would be plundered, his reply was, "Plunder
away: I wont pay a single farthing!" Having purchased the country
estate of Drumpellier, he proposed, like his friends Provost Murdoch
and Colin Dunlop, to build a handsome city residence for himself,
and to that end purchased a number of small properties, malt-kilns,
and vegetable gardens extending from the Westergate to the Back Cow
Loan. He cleared away the barns, byres, and malt-kilns on the
ground, laid out a roadway, which he named Virginia Street,
northward from the Wester-gate, and proceeded to sell plots for the
building of mansion houses. The first of these plots, on the east
side of the street, he disposed of in 1753 to his brother, Archibald
Buchanan of Silverbanks or Auchentorlie, who built on it a handsome
mansion with a short double stair in front in the style of the time.
[Eleven years later the Silverbanks mansion was purchased by Sir
Walter Maxwell of Pollok and the partners of the Thistle Bank, which
occupied it for eighty years. On its site was afterwards built the
ill-fated City of Glasgow Bank.—Glasghu Facies, ii. 1019.] Five
years later the plot to the south of this, at the corner of the
street, was acquired by the Highland Club, which built on
the spot the famous Black Bull Inn.
But before Andrew Buchanan could bring his plans to fruition, death
stilled his ambitions and he was laid in the Ramshorn kirkyard in
1759. The traffic of modern Ingram Street rumbles over the stout old
Provost's dust. [Curiosities of Glasgow Citizenship, pp. 4, 6, 12,
15, 17. Glasgow Past and Present, p. 517.]
While Andrew Buchanan's elder son
James inherited Drumpellier and was twice elected Provost of
Glasgow—from his facial peculiarities he was known as "Provost
Cheeks"—the younger son, George, became owner of the Glasgow
property. Carrying out his father's plans he built on the northern
end of his ground, next the Back Cow Loan, a handsome residence
which eclipsed even its neighbour, the Shawfield Mansion, and was
certainly the grandest house yet built by a Glasgow tobacco lord.
The Virginia Mansion, as it was called, was indeed a splendid
residence, with a gateway about the line of the present Wilson
Street, porters' lodges on each side, and vineries and peach-houses
against its garden walls. Already, before he was thirty, its owner
had purchased the estate of Windyedge in Old Monkland, east of
Glasgow, had laid out the grounds there with great taste, and had
given it the name of Mount Vernon—which it still bears—in honour of
his friend, George Washington, whose estate of that name neighboured
his own in Virginia. He did not live long, however, to enjoy his
great possessions. In July, 1762, he was carried from the Virginia
Mansion to the family burial-place in the Ramshorn kirkyard, a few
hundred yards away.
Meanwhile building plots in Virginia
Street had been sold to other two of the great tobacco traders, John
Bowman of Ashgrove, afterwards Provost of Glasgow, and Alexander
Speirs, afterwards of Elderslie. The latter was an incomer from
Edinburgh who had been attracted to the western city by the prospect
of fortune in the Virginia trade. He purchased plots of ground on
each side of Virginia Street, just outside the gates of the Virginia
Mansion, built himself a house on the western side, and proceeded to
ally himself with the merchant aristocracy of the city by marrying
Mary, daughter of Archibald Buchanan of Auchentorlie. The lady's
mother was a daughter of Provost Murdoch and niece of Provost Andrew
Buchanan of Drumpellier and Neil Buchanan of Hillington, M.P. for
the Glasgow burghs. [Curiosities of Glasgow Citizenship, pp. 20 and
22. Glasghu Facies, ii. 1030.]
Alexander Speirs was one of the four
young men, who started at one time in business, to whose talents and
spirit Provost Cochrane attributed the sudden rise of Glasgow to
trading opulence. The four, he said, had not io,000 among them when
they began. They were William Cuninghame, afterwards of Lainshaw,
Alexander Speirs of Elderslie, John Glassford of Dougalston, and
James Ritchie of Busby. [Sir John Dalrymple, Memoirs of Great
Britain and Ireland, appendix, quoted by Strang, Glasgow and its
Clubs, p. 42.] Of the four, Speirs is the only one whose descendant
retains his position and possessions at the present day. [Many of
the personal possessions of the old tobacco lord, including his
snuff-box and his tall gold-headed malacca cane, are preserved by
his great-great-grandson, Mr. A. A. Hagart Speirs of Elderslie, at
Houston House, his seat in Renfrewshire.] He prospered rapidly, was
one of the founders of the Glasgow Arms Bank in 1750, and was the
greatest of all the importers of tobacco. Of 90,000 hogsheads
imported into Britain in 1772, 49,000 were imported by the merchants
of Glasgow. Of these, Alexander Speirs & Co. imported 6035 hogsheads
and John Glassford & Co. 4506. [Glasgow Past and Present, p. 521.]
This business was conducted in a style befitting its importance.
Among its chief customers were the Farmers-General of France, who on
one occasion at any rate gave a single order for six thousand
hogsheads. The orders of the Farmers-General were transmitted
through Forbes's Bank, and Sir Charles Forbes describes how he and
his partner, Mr. Herries, on one occasion journeyed from Edinburgh
to Glasgow to adjust certain purchases. "As we went on a very
agreeable errand," he says, "we were received with open arms, and
entertained in the most sumptuous manner by the merchants during the
time that we remained there." [Memoirs of a Banking House, p. 44.]
For the purpose of such entertainments a handsome house was
necessary. Accordingly in 1770 Speirs purchased the fine Virginia
Mansion from the trustees of the late George Buchanan, of whom he
was himself one. At the same time, with fortune on a rising tide, he
set about the creation of a country estate. He bought a goodly
number of the little properties of the bonnet lairds of Govan, and
acquired the estate of Elderslie, the reputed birthplace of the
Scottish patriot, Sir William Wallace, from the last of that family,
Helen Wallace, wife of Archibald Campbell of Succoth and Garscube,
with other lands—altogether some io,000 acres—in Renfrewshire. He
had the whole consolidated into a barony under the name of Elderslie,
holding of the Crown, and on the historic King's Inch, by the river
side, built a stately mansion, to be known as Elderslie House. The
mansion took five years to build, and late in 1782 Speirs
established himself there with his family. Alas, before the year
closed he was dead, but he had the satisfaction of knowing that he
had accomplished his ambition and had founded a territorial house.
[Curiosities of Glasgow Citizenship, p. 21. Mitchell's Old Glasgow
Essays, P. 315. The portraits of Alexander Speirs and his wife hang
in the Merchants House.]
Rivalling Alexander Speirs in
importance among the great tobacco traders was John Glassford of
Whitehill and Dougalston. A native of Paisley, where his father was
a merchant and magistrate, Glassford attained prosperity in the city
while still a young man. In 1739, while only twenty-four, he rode to
London in company with Andrew Thomson of Faskine, afterwards founder
of the bank bearing his name. They rode their own horses, and were
evidently men of means. [The difficulties of their journey are
detailed in Dugald Bannatyne's notebook, quoted in Pagan's Glasgow
in 1847, and in Cleland's Statistical Tables, 1832, p. 156.] Some
half-dozen years later, after the Jacobite rebellion, Glassford
acquired Whitehill, part of the old Easter Craigs of Glasgow, and
now embodied in Dennistoun. He enclosed the whole thirty acres with
a wall, built a country mansion, and laid out the place with
gardens, conservatories, and ornamental walks. For twelve years he
resided there, dispensing princely hospitality and driving daily to
and from the city in a coach and four. But in 1759 he purchased, for
17oo guineas, the famous Shawfield Mansion in Trongate from the
second William Macdowall of Castle Semple, son of the West Indian
magnate. He then sold Whitehill to another Virginia merchant, John
Wallace of Neilstonside and Cessnock, a descendant of the family
which gave Scotland its patriot hero. From that time till his death
in 1783 Glassford lived partly in the Shawfield Mansion and partly
at the beautiful estate of Dougalston, which he also acquired, near
Bardowie Loch, a few miles north of the city. Like Alexander Speirs
he was early allied by marriage with the ruling caste in Glasgow,
his sister Rebecca being the wife of Archibald Ingram, founder of
the printwork industry, and Provost of the city in 1762. But his own
matrimonial alliances were more ambitious still. Of his first wife
nothing is known ; his second marriage was with Anne, second
daughter of Sir John Nisbet, Bart., of Dean, now part of Edinburgh,
and his third wife was Lady Margaret Mackenzie, daughter of the last
Earl of Cromarty. He carried on business on a great scale, had
twenty-five ships with their cargoes on the sea at once, and turned
over annually more than half a million sterling. [Tobias Smollett,
quoted in Glasgow and its Clubs, p. 39. Glassford's office, in the
third storey of the town's tenement at the corner of Gallowgate and
High Street, cost him £13 per annum. The floor below was rented by
Provost Andrew Cochrane at £14.---Burgh Records, 12th Nov. 7747.] In
addition he was concerned in various local enterprises. He was a
chief partner in the Glasgow Tanwork Company, perhaps the largest in
Europe in its time. He was one of the first partners in the Glasgow
Arms Bank, started in 1750. He was principal partner in the original
cudbear factory, which carried on the rather odorous business of
dye-making from certain Highland lichens. With his brother-in-law,
Provost Ingram, he had a share in the Print-field at Pollokshaws.
And he was a leading partner in the aristocratic Thistle Bank, whose
business lay largely among the rich Nest Indian merchants. It was
largely, also, his support, with that of one or two other wealthy
merchants, which enabled the Foulis brothers to carry on their
famous Academy of the Fine Arts. By Tobias Smollett, who as a
surgeon's apprentice must often have looked with awe on the great
man pacing the plainstanes, he is commemorated in the pages of
Humphry Clinker. He died at the age of sixty-eight in the Shawfield
Mansion, and lies, along with his second and third wives and several
of his descendants, in the Ramshorn churchyard, close behind the
railings in Ingram Street. [Glasghu Facies, pp. 757, 956. Glasgow
Past and Present. Mitchell, Old Glasgow Essays, pp. 80, 122.
Curiosities of Glasgow Citizenship, p. 215. Country Houses of the
Old Glasgow Gentry. Burgh Records, 12th Nov. 1747.]
Nine years after John Glassford's
death, his trustees sold the Shawfield Mansion for £9850 to William
Horn, a builder, who demolished the house, and over its site, and
through the great garden behind, formed the thoroughfare now known
as Glassford Street. [Glasgow and its Clubs, p. ii. Mitchell, p.
22.] A street branching from it long bore the name of Garthland
Street, from the estate of the Macdowalls, once the owners of the
site. This has lately been changed to Garth Street.
Of different fate from the Shawfield
Mansion and the Virginia Mansion, the splendid dwelling built by
another of these great tobacco lords still remains to testify to the
wealth and taste of that time. William Cuninghame was another of
Provost Cochrane's " four young men." When the American War of
Independence broke out he was a junior partner in the firm which
held the largest stock of tobacco in the United Kingdom. The average
cost of their great stock had been threepence per pound. Immediately
upon the declaration of independence by America the price rose to
sixpence. Thereupon seeing they had doubled their capital, the
partners of the firm held a meeting, and resolved to take advantage
of the opportunity and effect an immediate sale. The British forces
in America, it was thought, must shortly suppress the rebellion,
whereupon plentiful supplies of tobacco would again become
available, and the price would fall to its previous level. But Mr.
Cuninghame was of a different opinion. He took over the whole stock
as his personal property, and was able to give the other partners of
the firm security for the amount of his purchase. His judgment
proved to be correct. In consequence of the misfortunes to the
British armies tobacco continued to rise in price till it reached
the astonishing figure of three shillings and sixpence per pound. By
that time Cuninghame had sold his entire stock at an enormous
profit, and had realized a very handsome fortune. With this he
bought the fine estate of Lainshaw in Ayrshire, and proceeded to
build himself a splendid residence in Glasgow. On the west side of
the Cow Loan, which is now Queen Street, and facing the Back Cow
Loan, now Ingram Street, stood at that time a cow-feeder's thatched
steading with byre and midden, the property of one Neilson, a "land
labourer in Garioch," near Maryhill. Here Cuninghame saw
possibilites, as Sir Walter Scott did later in the Tweedside farm of
Clartyhole. He purchased the steading, and on its site in 1778
raised one of the finest houses of its time in the West of
Scotland—at a cost, it is said, of £10,000.
After several changes of ownership
this mansion still stands. At Cuninghame's death in 1789 it was
bought by the great firm of William Stirling & Sons, which used one
of the wings as an office, while the main building was occupied by
successive members of the family. In 1817 the house was purchased by
the Royal Bank, which built a double stair in front and installed
its tellers in the drawing-room. Ten years later, the old
coffee-room at the Cross having become too small for their
meeting-place, an association of merchants, with James Ewing of
Strathleven at its head, acquired the house and built round it, to
the plans of the architect Hamilton, the present handsome Royal
Exchange. The old Lainshaw mansion still stands behind the
colonnaded Queen Street front, its rooms being mostly occupied as
shipbroking and insurance offices. [Curiosities of Glasgow
Citizenship, p. 193. Alison's Anecdotage, p. 127. Other sites
proposed for the new Exchange were between Virginia and Miller
Streets in Argyle Street, and at the head of Glassford Street, and
the Town Council supported the Argyle Street location.—Burgh
Records, 25th May, 1827.]
These were the most notable of the
Glasgow merchants who realized fortunes out of the trade with the
American colonies, who trod the plainstanes at the Cross in scarlet
cloaks and three-cornered hats, and, known as "tobacco lords,"
formed a civic aristocracy of hauteur and exclusiveness that have
not been forgotten at the present day. [Glasgow and its Clubs, p.
40.] The trade lasted for fifty years, and came to an end with the
declaration of independence by the United States. Upon that event
the estates owned by many British subjects in America were
confiscated, and the owners were ruined. Among those who suffered in
this way was the father of the famous Mrs. Grant of Laggan,
authoress of Letters from the Mountains, Memoirs of an American
Lady, and the well-known song, "O where, tell me where." Captain
McVicar was a resident in the Goosedubs, then a fashionable quarter
of the city, where his daughter was born. Shortly afterwards he was
ordered with his regiment to America, where he took part in the
conquest of Canada. Some years later he resigned his commission,
took up his allotment of 2000 acres in Vermont, and acquired the
similar allotment of a brother officer. In 1768 he was compelled by
ill-health to return to Scotland, and on the outbreak of the
revolutionary war was deprived of his estate and reduced to depend
on an appointment as barrack-master at Fort Augustus.
Another family which suffered in
similar fashion was that of Hugh Wyllie, who died suddenly after his
election to the Lord Provostship in 1781. His property was in
America; no remittances came home after his death, and the Town
Council granted his widow £50 per annum, to be repaid when
remittances were received. [Burgh Records, 18th Nov. 1782.]
Soon after the declaration of
independence by America the "tobacco lords" ceased to lead the
social life of the city, and the scarlet cloaks gradually
disappeared from the plainstanes of the Trongate.
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