THE parish of Barr is one
of the most extensive in Carrick, but at the same time the least
populous. There is only one village in it; the other habitations
consisting of the farmhouses scattered sparsely over its wilderness of
hills. The Stinchar is its main stream, and what arable land the parish
possesses lies chiefly along its banks. When the traveller leaves the
valley of the Stinchar, he finds himself in an unknown region of moors
and mosses, trod by no foot but that of the shepherd in charge of his
sheep, or that of the sportsman in quest of game. It may be called
indeed the Highland parish of Ayrshire, having higher hills, and more of
them, than any other.
Perhaps the most
picturesque spot in Barr is the well-known Pass into Galloway, called
the Nick of the Balloch. This begins at the farmhouse of Pin valley,
about four miles from Barr village, and ascends along the side of a hill
for nearly two miles, having neither fence nor parapet to prevent the
heedless traveller from being hurled into the ravine beneath. It is
indeed a striking road, and the view from its summit, when you have
Ayrshire on one side and Galloway on the other, is a sight worth going
some distance to see. The parish extends several miles beyond the Nick
of the Balloch into the valley of the Minnoch, from whose side rises
Shalloch-on-Minnoch to the height of 2,520 feet.
The oldest building in
the parish is the ruin popularly known as Kirkdandie. It is situated
about 1^ miles below the village on a rising ground overlooking the
Stinchar. The name is spelled in so many ways that it is difficult to
say what is its real meaning. Kirk-Dominae and Kirk-Dominick have both
been suggested, although, to make confusion worse confounded, we are
told it was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. But, apart from the name, we
know that this was the original Roman Catholic Church of the district,
until the new parish was erected (out of portions of Girvan and Dailly)
in 1653, at which date a church was erected at Barr village, which has
only recently been removed.
The walls of the old
church of Kirkdandie are still Standing, with the exception of the east
gable, near which the High Altar stood The hewn stones at the door have
been removed, and the only spot of interest remaining seems to be the
Ambry, a recess in the wall about a foot square, where the portion of
the bread not consumed at the Mass was preserved, as well as the vessels
used in the observance of that rite. The Manse and the Manse garden,
with a few fruit-trees, are still to be seen, and high up on the face of
the hill behind are the walls of a small building which formerly
enclosed a Holy Well (called the Stroll Well here), whose •clear waters
still gush out abundantly from a cleft in the rock.
But it is the commercial
associations of Kirkdandie that have given it its chief local fame. For
in the old days, when packmen were the chief retailers and Fairs the
chief markets, the annual gathering here on the last Saturday of May was
reckoned a great event in South Ayrshire. Tents for refreshments were
thickly planted on the green sward surrounding the old ruin, sometimes
to the number of 30 or 40, where haggis was to be had whose taste made
an Irishman declare that he "could drink Stinchar dry," and whisky,
whose effects were speedily seen in fights innumerable.
But the rough fighting at
Kirkdandie Fair was nothing in interest compared with the fighting that
took place (so tradition records) on the summit of a hill called
Craigan-rarie> about ij4 miles above the village. This fight lay between
a former laird of Changue and the Prince of Darkness, and began under
the following circumstances. Changue was getting short of money, and in
order to replenish his purse, sold his soul to the Devil. After a
season, the Creditor appeared and claimed the person of the debtor. But
by this time the Laird had repented him of his bargain, and refused to
go. The Great Adversary thereupon proceeded to lay hold of him; but
Changue, placing his Bible on the turf, and drawing a circle with his
sword around him, sturdily and, as it turned out, successfully defied
his opponent. If any one doubts this wonderful story, let him go to the
top of Craiganrarie and see for himself. There he will behold the
circle, only 4½ feet in diameter, and therefore perilously narrow, with
the footprints of the doughty farmer and the mark of his Bible. Of
course, in these modern days, when nobody believes in anything, it has
been asserted that the tradition only records the visit of a priest to
claim his dues. But far be such rationalistic explanations from me or
mine. We will have the original story or none at all! Besides, is not
the whole tradition but an outward embodiment of the well-known
spiritual fact—Resist the Devil, and he will flee from you ?
Other places of interest
may be found in Pederts Stone, near the Lane Toll, where that noted
Covenanter once preached; and Dinmurchie, where Viscount Stair, author
of the "Institutions of the Law of Scotland," was born in 1619, and with
whom, in after days, Peden had some friendly correspondence. But perhaps
the spot most generally interesting will be found in the old churchyard,
where a small but well-preserved stone bears the following inscription
:—
It is thus Wodrow tells
the story:—"On the 28th of February, about 11 o'clock at night, Cornet
Douglas, with 24 soldiers, surrounded the farmhouse of Dalwine (still
standing about four miles above Barr village). There they apprehended
David Martin, who dwelt in the house with his mother; and finding Edward
M'Keen (the name is spelled Kyan by Wodrow), a pious young man from
Galloway, lately come thence to buy corn, who had fled in betwixt the
gable of one house and the side wall of another, they dragged him out,
and took him through a yard. He was asked where he lived, and he told
them, upon the water of Minnoch. When one of the soldiers had him by the
arm dragging him away, without any warning, farther questions, or
permitting him to pray, Cornet Douglas shot him through the head, and
presently discharged his other pistol and shot him again in the head;
and one of the soldiers of the party, coming up, pretended he saw some
motion in him still, and shot him a third time. He was but a youth, and
could not have been at Bothwell or any of the risings, and they had
indeed nothing to charge him with but his hiding himself. When they had
thus dispatched this man, the soldiers brought out their other prisoner,
David Martin, to the same place, and after they had turned off his coat,
they set him upon his knees beside the mangled body. One of the soldiers
dealt with the Cornet to spare him till to-morrow, alleging they might
get discoveries from him, and stepped in betwixt him and six soldiers
who were presenting their pieces. The Cornet was prevailed with to spare
him, and bring him into the house. But the fright and terror so unhinged
his reason, that he became an imbecile to the day of his death." Such
were the doings that were common in "the killing time." And the only
grim satisfaction we have is in learning that this ruffian officer, who
had previously shot John Semple at Dailly, was himself cut down, four
years afterwards, on the field of Killiecrankie.
The drawing represents
the Village of Barr, with the rushing Gregg in front and the Kelton Hill
behind. The house to the extreme right is the very neat Public School,
while those in the foreground extend towards what is called "The
Clachanfit." There are two churches, both recently erected, and these,
with the old churchyard, form the sights of a village which for neatness
and picturesqueness of situation takes a foremost place among the
charming villages of Carrick.