THE road from Girvan to Ballantrae is one of
the finest coast roads in Scotland, and Sir Roderick Murchison, the
Geologist, in one of his books, expresses his regret that "the fine scenery
of this grand coast section has not been sketched by a good artist and made
known to the public."
The road winds close by the sea, into which
the hills descend abruptly. Ailsa, Arran, Cantire, and Irelan4 are all
clearly visible across a Firth, which is never bare of vessels. Sea-birds
abound on every hand, and the fantastic shapes of the rocks are a perpetual
delight. Murchison speaks of Craig Skelly at Shalloch (1½ miles from
Girvan), "which exhibits so beautifully the junction of the conglomerates
with the flagstones and schists"; and he stooped down to gather not fewer
than twenty varieties of rock which were strewn on the beach. He next
notices the Greywacke schists near Ardwell (4 miles), "which jut out from
the grassy sward between the hills and the shore, like books in a library,
or the tombstones in a closely-tenanted churchyard." Finally, he calls
attention to the rocks at Kennedy's Pass (4½ miles), which, he says, are "by
far the finest example of coarse Silurian conglomerates I have met with in
any part of the world."
The rock figured second in this article
stands by the roadside about 5^ miles from Girvan, and just as the coastline
bends round to the beautiful bay of Lendal. A short way before coming to it,
there is a cave by the roadside on the left, called Ardmillan Cove,
partially filled with water. This cave is below the level of the road, but
the Hole in the Rock stands high above it, and as all striking natural
appearances in this part of Scotland were formerly explained by the action
of evil spirits, so is it with this one. According to tradition, therefore,
the Prince of Darkness was one day building stacks of stone, two of which
still remain, when the minister of Colmonell, on the border of which parish
it is situated, suddenly appeared on the heights above, with a Bible in his
hand. This was enough. The Fiend at once fled for Ireland, knocking in his
hurry a hole through the ledge of rock which stood in his way. So runs the
story; and to keep it in countenance, I may mention that what Murchison
calls "the beautiful junction of the conglomerates with the schists" at
Craig Skelly, used to be explained to me in my boyhood's days, as the track
of the Evil One's wheelbarrow!
THE HOLE IN THE
ROCK NEAR LENDAL.
Beautiful as the whole road is, it is
specially beautiful at Kennedy's Pass, so named after the Right Hon. T. F.
Kennedy of Dalquharran, who was the first to pass through it. Previous to
the year 1831, the road at this point led along the face of Penbain hill,
about 300 feet above the sea, and was very steep. Another steep part of the
old road may still be seen at Games Loup. Being the main highway between
Portpatrick and Glasgow, Mr Telford, the famous engineer, was engaged to
survey the whole coast road, so as to ascertain the probable expense of
making it serviceable for coach traffic. He gave ,£15,000 as his estimate,
but as it was found impossible to raise this sum in the district, the
project was abandoned. However, the late Mr M'IIwraith
of Auchenflower was convinced that the estimate was too high, and engaged to
have the improvements effected for one-third of the money, and this was
accordingly done.
About a mile past the "Hole in the Rock," and
close by Lendal village, there stands by the roadside a neat tombstone,
surrounded by a railing, bearing the following inscription:—"Erected to the
memory of Archibald Hamilton and crew, natives of King's Cross, Arran, who
were drowned near this place, September 11, 1711.
"Ye passengers,
whoe'er ye are,
As ye pass on this way,
Disturb ye not this small respect
That's paid to sailors' clay."
It is a long way back to 1711, but the people
of the district have piously preserved this little spot of ground, and
thrice at their own expense renewed the tombstone. A few years ago, a big
storm washed away a portion of the earth to the right of the stone, and the
skeletons of the drowned fishermen were still seen lying side by side as
they had been laid on the day of their burial.
Lendal village consists of only half-a-dozen
houses or so clustered round a School. In former days the houses were
clustered round a wayside Inn, which shows at least a change for the better.
In one of the houses dwells one of those self-taught geniuses in humble life
who have always formed a creditable feature of our country. A good many
years ago, when travelling along this road, I used to observe a young man
wandering about in the evenings, with a gun under his arm, or a moth net in
his hand. This was Charles Berry, on the outlook for specimens wherewith to
stock his cabinet of Natural History. These specimens have grown on his hand
until now he possesses nearly 200 different species of birds' eggs, all the
common local species of British moths, many stuffed specimens of rare birds,
all the various kinds of crustaceans to be found on these shores, with a
heterogeneous collection of curiosities, which make his small room quite a
Museum. Some years ago, he collected for me the 36 specimens of our common
Wild Birds which I presented to the Maybole Public School; while he has also
collected for me 34 specimens of our local Sea Shells, which I have
presented to Girvan Burgh School. At first he used to send all his
bird-specimens to Glasgow to be stuffed; but latterly he has set to the work
himself, and has turned out some exceedingly creditable specimens of
taxidermy. And all the time he has been doing his day's darg at the lobster
fishing, and merely indulges his passion for Natural History at hours given
up by others to pipe smoking or idle gossip. Not being a professed
Naturalist myself, I asked Mr Morris Young, of the Paisley Free Museum, for
whom he collected many specimens, to furnish me with his estimate of Mr
Berry's attainments as a Naturalist; but Mr Young suggests that I should
simply refer those interested to "his numerous contributions to the Paisley
Museum, more particularly in British Fishes, Stalk and Sessile-eyed
Crustaceans, Annelids, Sponges, &c, as these testify to his painstaking
perseverance and discrimination."