AN account must be given here of the ways in which
the different parts of the parish of Gairloch came into the hands of the
present proprietors. It shall be brief. Some notes on old names of places
are included.
Hector Roy
Mackenzie is said, in an old MS., to have possessed, among other
properties, "Kenlochewe, a district adjoining to Gairloch on the east."
But after his time it belonged to the lords of Kintail, and subsequently
to the Mackenzies of Coul, from whom Sir Alexander Mackenzie, ninth laird
of Gairloch, purchased it in 1743, with the proceeds of the sale of Glas
Lei tire, in Kintail. Kenlochewe has belonged to the Gairloch baronets
since that date. It extends from the west end of Loch Rosque to the water
flowing from Glen Torridon past the village of Kenlochewe into the head of
Loch Maree, and to a burn running down Slioch on the north-east side of
that loch; it also extends six miles on the road from Kenlochewe village
to Torridon. Gairloch
itself became the property of Hector Roy under charters from the crown,
and has ever since remained the possession of the Gairloch Mackenzies. In
the earliest document of title extant, a protocol from John de Vaux,
sheriff of Inverness, dated 10th December 1494, "the landis of Gerloch,"
granted to Hector, and of which the sheriff gave him possession by that
protocol, are described as " lyande betwix the watteris callyde Innerew
and Torvedene, within the Shireffdome of Innerness." The boundaries thus
stated for Gairloch are the waters of Ewe, i.e. Loch Maree, the river Ewe,
and Loch Ewe on the north, and Torridon on the south. The sheriff's
protocol was sealed at "Alydyll"—no doubt Talladale—"in Garloch," and that
place has always formed part of Gairloch, as have also the islands of Loch
Maree. The retour, in
1566, of Alexander, second son of John Glassicb Mackenzie, specifies "the
lands of Garloch" as including "Garloch, Kirktoun, Syldage, Hamgildail,
Malefage, Innerasfidill, Sandecorran, Cryf, Baddichro, Bein-Sanderis,
Meall, Allawdill." Kirktoun seems to have been the designation of the
place now called Charlestown, near Flowerdale, being near the old Gairloch
church; Syldage represents Shieldaig; Malefage, Melvaig; Innerasfidill,
Inverasdale; Sandecorran, Big Sand (of Gairloch); Cryf, Cliff (Poolewe);
Baddichro, Badachro; Meall, Miole or Strath; and Allawdill must be
Talladale. Hamgildail no longer exists.
In 1638 "Kenneth McKeinzie of Garloch was served
heir male to his father, Alexander McKeinzie of Garloche, in the lands and
barony of Garloche, including Kirktoun, with the manor place and gardens
of the same, Sildag [Shieldaig], the two Oyngadellis [same as Hamgildail,
in the retour of 1566], Mailfog [Melvaig], Debak [Dia-baig], Inneraspedell
[Inverasdale], Sandacarrane [Sandacarran, or Big
Sand], Badichro [Badachro], the
two Sandis [north side of Loch Cairlochl, Erredell [Erradale], Telledill [Talladale],
Clive [Cliff, Poolewe], Tollie [same as now], and the two Nastis [Naast];
the lands of Ellenow [Isle of Ewe], Auldgressan [Altgreshan], with the
waters and salmon fishings of Kerne and Badechro, the half of the water of
Ew, and the salmon fishings of the same, Achetcairne f Achtercairn], Meoll
[Miole, or Strath], with the mill, Udroll, the loch of Loch Maroy [Loch
Maree], with the islands of the same, and the manor place and gardens in
the island of Ilinroy [Eilean Ruaridh], the loch of Garloch with the
fishings of the same, with other lands in Ross, all united into the barony
of Garloche and the town of Clive [Poolewe], with the harbour and shore of
the same being part of the same barony of Garloch erected into a burgh of
barony." This must have been a list of the inhabited places on the
Gairloch estate two hundred and fifty years ago.
In a Dutch map of Ross-shire, by the famous
geographer Bleau, engraved by Pont, and dated 1662, kindly lent me by Mr
D. William Kemp, some of the old Gairloch names are given with curious
spellings. This map of Ross-shire purports to have been made by " R.
Gordonius a Strath-loch." The map shows Telladull, Slotadull, Tawy, Yl Ew,
Ruymakilvandrich, Dunast, Inner-Absdill, Melvag, Sanda, Erdull, Viroill,
Meall, Achagacharn, Heglis Gherloch, Kno-kintoull, Ingadill, Shilkag,
Padechry, Erradill, Typack (Diabaig), Ardetisag. Rudha Reidh is called
Rowna Ra; the island of Longa is called Yl Lunga; the sealoch of Gairloch
is called Gher Loch; Loch Maree is called Loch Ew, which name is also
given to the present Loch Ew, and the Garavaig river is called Alt Finnag.
This last name seems to be for Allt Feannaige, or " the burn of the hoodie
crow," a bird which still frequents the locality. These are all the names
given on what was the original Gairloch estate. Of other names within the
parish of Gairloch there are Inner Ew, Turnag, Drumnachoirk, Badfern,
Oudergill, Sanda, Inoran, Ardlarich, Acha-buy, Letyr Ew, Fowlis, Smirsary,
Pinesdale, Achanaloisk, Glenmuik, Lecachy, Glen-dochart, Glas-Letyr,
Heglis-loch-ew (apparently where Culinellan now is), and Groudy. The only
mountain named is Bin Cherkyr. A large island on Loch Maree has the name
Sow, probably intended for Suthainn, which island had then previously been
a residence of Alastair Breac, laird of Gairloch. Lochs Finn [Fionn loch],
Dow [Dubh loch], Garavad [east of Letterewe], Fadd, and Clair, are the
only lochs with names. It is curious that such places as Kenlochewe and
Clive [Poolewe] are not named on this old map. The names that are given
are very instructive when compared with the names in the old records just
quoted. Ruymakilvandrich is not found elsewhere; it seems to be intended
for Rudha Mac Gille Aindreas, or "the point of the son of Gillanders,"
i.e. of the servant of Andrew, and is applied to a small headland near
Boor; it doubtless had reference to some incident long ago forgotten.
Dunast [Dun Naast] is still the name of a rock close to Naast; from this
name being given instead of Naast, it may be inferred that in the
seventeenth century there was some part of the dun that stood there still
remaining. The names Heglis Gherloch, Heglis-loch-ew, Knokintoull, and
Achanaloisk, do not occur elsewhere, either in old descriptions or modern
nomenclature. Viroill seems to be the same as Udroll in the description of
1638. The map shows it where Lonmor now is. The other names are easily
identified. The place called Ingadill on this old map, Hamgildail in the
retour of 1566, and Oyngadellis in 1638, has now entirely disappeared; it
seems to have been at the mouth of the river Kerry. The map gives only two
churches in Gairloch parish, viz., Heglis Gherloch, near where the present
Gair-loch church now stands, and Heglis-loch-ew, at the head of Loch Maree.
The names of places given on the map most likely indicate the most
populous localities at that date. Some of the names are spelt
phonetically; thus Bin is the Gaelic pronunciation of Beinn, and Finn is
still the pronunciation by the natives of the name of Fionn loch.
Alexander Mackenzie, seventh laird of Gairloch,
bought the second half of the water of Ewe and Mellon Charles in 1671. The
precise extent of this purchase does not appear. Mellon Charles still
belongs to the Gairloch Mackenzies, as well as Isle Ewe, and the whole
right to the salmon fishings of Loch Ewe, the River Ewe, and Loch Maree.
To finish with the Gairloch estate of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, the present
baronet, it may be mentioned that the Kernsary estate was purchased from
the Seaforth family in 1844, very early in Sir Kenneth's minority, and was
resold by his trustees to his half-brother Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie, in
1862, with the exception of the strip of territory extending from Inveran
to Londubh on the north-east bank of the river Ewe, which, with Gairloch
proper, Kenlochewe, Mellon Charles, and the Isle of Ewe, completes Sir
Kenneth's possessions in the parish of Gairloch. They form a noble estate,
which comprises more than three-fourths of the whole parish.
Letterewe unquestionably belonged to the Kintail or
Seaforth family up to and including the early part of the seventeenth
century. It was either acquired by Kenneth, sixth laird of Gairloch, at
the time (about 1648) when he became cautioner for the Earl of Seaforth in
a bond for five thousand merks, or else later on (in 1671) by his son
Alexander as part of his acquisition of the second half of the water of
Ewe. In 1696 this Alexander gave up Letterewe to his brother Charles in
exchange for Wester Logic Charles became the progenitor of the family of
Mackenzie of Letterewe, who possessed the property until 1835, when it was
sold to the late Mr Meyrick Bankes, whose daughter Mrs Liot Bankes is the
present liferenter of it. It extends from Slioch, along the shore of Loch
Maree, to a burn between Ardlair and Inveran, and back to Fionn loch. With
Letterewe is held the old Gruinard estate; it includes all the lands on
the promontory called the Greenstone Point, except Mellon Charles. The
older annals of this property are complex, and need not be fully narrated
here. It came into the possession of the Gruinard Mackenzies before 1655,
an<* continued in the same family until 1795, when it was sold to Henry
Davidson of Tulloch, who again sold it to the late Mr Bankes, about 1835,
along with the other parts of the Gruinard estate to the south of the
Meikle Gruinard river^ Mrs Liot Bankes is also liferenter of this
property: it forms, with Letterewe, a fine estate, which covers just
one-sixth of the parish of Gairloch.
The remaining property in Gairloch parish is that of
Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie. It includes Kernsary (except the strip on the
northeast side of the Ewe, which, as before stated, is Sir Kenneth's),
Loch-end or Inverewe, and Tournaig. Kernsary, as we have seen, was, after
belonging to more than one family, purchased by Sir Kenneth's trustees in
1844, and sold by them to Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie in 1862. It was bought
from the Seaforth family, who had acquired it as providing a port at
Londubh, from which the island of the Lews, then their estate, was
accessible. The Lochend and Tournaig properties were in 1863 purchased by
Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie from Sir William Mackenzie of Coul, to whom they
had come after having had a succession of proprietors. These and Kernsary
now constitute Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie's charming estate of Inverewe,.
about one-sixteenth of the whole parish of Gairloch. |