ALEXANDER, second son of John Roy Mackenzie,
succeeded his father in 1628 as chief of Gairloch, his elder brother
having died without male issue during the father's lifetime. Alexander was
known as Alastair Breac; the soubriquet "breac " means "pock-pitted,"
and had reference to traces of smallpox, then a terrible scourge in the
Highlands. He was fifty years of age when he succeeded his father. He was
a very tall man, being as we saw in Part L, chap, xi., a head above all
his brothers, who were themselves fine men. Not only was he mighty in
stature, but he was also a renowned warrior. It was he who led the Mackenzies in the battle at Lochan an Fheidh in Glen Torridon, described
in our last chapter, when the M'Leods were completely routed; and he is
said to have been his father's principal assistant and agent in finally
expelling the M'Leods from Gairloch. He is described as having been "a
valiant worthy gentleman."
He was twice married, and had twelve
children. He added by purchase or arrangement to the family estates. He
seems to have mostly resided on Eilean Suthainn in Loch Maree, where he
died; his father's house and garden on Eilean Ruaridh were still in
existence in his days, and he certainly used at times the old Temple house
at Flowerdale.
In the days of Alastair Breac, Gairloch was still subject to raids,
especially by cattle-lifters from Lochaber. The Loch Broom men used often
to assist the people of Gairloch in repelling invaders. The trysting-place
of the Gairloch and Lochaber men was at the spring or well just below the
present road at the head of Glen Dochartie. The present road has buried
the well, but the water is still there.
There lived a man in Lochaber in
those days called Donald, the son of Black Donald. He was a cross man, and
a choice thief. He had a brother known as Iain Geal Donn, or White-brown
John, and there was only one other man in all Scotland who was a better
"lifter" of cattle than these two. Donald sent word to Alastair Breac,
laird of Gairloch, that he would " take spoil of him, and no thanks to
him." On a previous occasion Donald had been foiled in an attempt to rob
Gairloch. Alastair Breac sent for Alastair Buidhe Mackay, from Strath
Oykell in Sutherlandshire, who was the strongest and most valiant man he
could hear of in the three counties, and him he appointed captain of his
guard. Iain Geal Donn came with his men to An Amilt, in Easter Ross, and
there they " lifted " eleven cows and a bull. They came with their spoil
through Strath Vaich and Strath Conan to a place called Sgaird-ruadh, or
Scardroy, where they stayed the night. It was they who gave this name to
the place, because they had pushed the beasts so hard that blood came from
them there in the night. Alastair Buidhe Mackay had a Lochaber lad for his
servant, and it was this lad who told him for certain that the thieves
were stopping that night at a shieling bothie at Scardroy. Mackay and his
servant hurried away to Scardroy. There he put the muzzle of his gun to
the lad's body, and made him swear to be faithful to him. They moved on to
the bothie, and there Mackay again made the lad swear to be true to him,
and not to let any of the thieves come out alive. The Lochaber thieves
were in the bothie quite unsuspicious, roasting a portion of the bull.
Mackay posted his servant at the door, whilst he himself climbed on the
other end of the bothie. He quietly lifted the lower edge of a divot on
the roof, and peeped in to see what was going on. He saw Iain Geal Donn
looking very jolly, and warming the backs of the calves of his legs at the
fire. Iain suddenly turned round, and said to his men who were about the
fire roasting the meat, " Look out! I am getting the smell of powder."
Before he could say another word, the charge from Mackay's gun was lodged
in the small of his back. The instant he had fired the shot, Mackay rushed
to the door to assist his servant, and the two of them slew all the
Lochaber men as they came to the door, except one who got off by a fluke,
and he had the heel cut off one foot! They followed him a little way, but
were too tired to catch him. They returned to the dead bodies at the
bothie, and ate their fill of the meat that was roasting. They sewed up
the body of Iain Geal Donn in the bull's hide, and put the roasting spit
across his mouth. Then they went away, leaving the dead in the bothie.
Alastair Buidhe Mackay returned west to Gairloch, and told the laird what
he had done. Alastair Breac was so pleased with the account, that he sent
a running gillie at once to Brahan with a letter to tell Lord Mackenzie of
Kintail what had occurred. Who should happen to be dining with Lord
Mackenzie but Cameron of Lochiel! When his lordship had read the letter,
he threw it over to Lochiel, saying, " There is blood on you over there,
you thieves." Lochiel was so stung that he left the dinner untouched, and
went straight home to Lochaber. He sent gillies to Scardroy, and they
brought away the body of Iain Geal Donn. They buried him in Corpach in
Lochaber,. where his memorial cairn stands to this day. Soon after this,
Lochiel meditated a raid on Gairloch; he thought he would make it hard for
Alastair Breac, in revenge for the slaughter of the Lochaber men. When
Alastair Breac heard of this, he collected four score men to keep back the
Lochaber invaders. They were with the laird all night in the old house
called the Temple, now the head-gardener's house at Flowerdale. They were
a ragged crew, but they were strong and they were brave. In the morning
they went away, and soon reached the Great Black Corrie of Liathgach.
There were shieling bothies at the foot of the glen, and the Gairloch men
thought their Lochaber foes might be lying in ambush in the bothies.
Alastair Ross from Lonmor volunteered to go and see if the Locha'ber men
were in the bothies, which were not in use at that time of the year; he
was not much in his clothing, but he did not lack pluck. He went to the
bothies, and in a loud voice challenged the Lochaber men to come out. But
he got no answer. The Lochaber men, fortunately for themselves, had
not'come forward, having heard of Alastair Breach preparations to resist
them. The Gairloch men got the news of the retreat of the Lochaber men
from the people of Coire Mhic Cromail in Torridon, who at the same time
assured them they would have assisted them against the invader had they
come. Our ragged rabble, without pride or fear, returned to Gairloch, and
spent the night with Alastair Breac in the Temple house, with music,
drinking, and revelry. It was on their tramp homewards that they met at
Kenlochewe Ruaridh Breac, son of Fair Duncan, the old bard who lived at
Cromasaig, and he composed the celebrated song to the "Guard of the Black
Corrie." The story of the wratch at Glac na Sguithar belongs to the same
period. The dell bearing that name is to the east of the head of Glen
Dochartie. Then almost all the proprietors in the Highlands paid blackmail
to Colla Ban; consequently he made no raids upon their territories; and if
others made raids upon them, Colla made good the loss. The laird of
Gairloch refused to pay blackmail to Colla, and he sent him word that he
had many brave men in Gairloch, therefore he would give blackmail to no
one, Colla replied, "He would soon make a raid upon Gairloch, and before
driving away the spoil he would sleep a night in the laird of Gairloch's
bed." Upon hearing this Mackenzie called out the bravest and strongest of
the Gairloch men, and he sent them to keep guard in the passes through
which the Lochaber men were most likely to advance northward. There were
thirty picked men in the Coire Dubh, and an equal member in Glac na
Sguithar. In each guard Mackenzie had his own near relations and kinsmen.
At this time there was an inn at Luib, at the Gairloch end of Loch Rosque;
it was on the green at the head of the loch, below where the present
Luibmhor inn stands ; the innkeeper was called Iain Caol. While the guard
of Glac na Sguithar were on duty, late on a Saturday night, four of the
Lochaber men, who had been sent on in advance to spy the land, took up
their quarters in Iain Caol's hostelry. On Sabbath morning they sat round
the fire in the one public room in the house, and Iain himself went out
for a walk. He was not long away, but soon returned to the Cameron spies
from Lochaber. Addressing them he said, " I see four of the Gairloch men
from the watch at Glac na Sguithar coming this way. I am sure they will
call in for their ' morning.' Go to the other end, where you slept last
night, and remain there quietly for a little. They will soon be off
again." This request displeased the Camerons, for they answered rather
tartly, "Where did we ever see four from whose face we would turn away?"
"Be that as it may," said Iain, "take my advice just now. You can see and
hear all that may go on ; and, when you do so, if you think it prudent to
go among them, you can join them before they leave the house." They took
his advice and retired. The four came in, each of them a scion of the
Gairloch family, except one who was a Chisholm. Big Murdo, son of the good
man of Shieldaig, sat at the far end of the bench next the partition ;
beside him Iain Gearr Mac Mhurchaidh Mhic Iain took up his position. The
third was Murdo Roy ; and Chisholm occupied the 6ther end of the bench.
Big Murdo of Shieldaig called for a bottle of whisky; they drank it. Iain
Gearr called for another bottle, and they drank it. Murdo Roy called for a
third bottle; they got it also, and drank it. Then Chisholm called for a
bottle. "You have enough," said Iain Caol. "Is it because I am not one of
the gentry that you refuse me?" said Chisholm, with rising ire: "Give me
my bottle of your own good will, or I will have it against your will."
They got the fourth bottle, and while they were discussing it Murdo of
Shieldaig said to Iain Caol, "Do you ever see any of those braggarts from
Lochaber who are troubling us, keeping us on guard away from home? I wish
a few of them came, till we would have some sport with them." "Not a man
of them ventures this way," said Iain Caol. The Gairloch men went away,
and Iain accompanied them over the hill. Here they sat and drank Iain's
bottle, which he had concealed under his arm. Then Iain returned, and
found the Lochaber men sitting again at the fire. "Have I here the heroes
who never saw men from whom they would retreat?" said Iain Caol to them.
One of them replied, "We saw only two of them, but we never saw such men
before. If one of them caught any of us, he could easily crush-every bone
of the body in his hand." So the Lochaber spies quietly returned home. The
Camerons never again attempted to make a raid upon Gairloch, and Alastair
Breac heard no more of their menaces.
Alastair Breac died 4th January
1638, aged sixty, and was buried in the chapel he had erected in the
Gairloch churchyard. He was succeeded by his eldest son Kenneth, sixth
laird of Gairloch, who was a strong royalist during the wars of Montrose
and the Covenanters, and commanded a body of Highlanders at Balvenny,
under Thomas Mackenzie of Pluscardine, and his own brother-in-law the Earl
of Huntly, but when the royalist army was surprised and disarmed he
managed to escape. As a malignant he was fined by the Committee of Estates
for his adherence to the king (see Appendix F).
Kenneth added to the
family property. He was three times married, and had eleven children. He
built the Stankhouse, or "moat-house," on the site of the old Tigh Dige,
and made his Gairloch home there. He died in 1669, and was buried in
Beauly Priory, where his great-grandfather, John Glassich Mackenzie, had
been interred. Alexander, eldest son of Kenneth, became the seventh
laird of Gairloch. He also added to the family estates. He was thrice
married, and had six children. He seems to have lived a quiet life; he
died in 1694, aged forty-two, and was buried in the burial-place in the
Gairloch churchyard. |