A FEW of the bridges in the
parish, and of those on the roads leading into it, may properly be reckoned
as ancient buildings. A connection long existed between bridge-building and
public worship. The head priest of the Roman College of Pontiffs was called
the Pontifex Maximus, or great bridge-builder; and the Pons Sublicius, or
wooden bridge over the Tiber, was constructed and upheld by him. In later
times the clergy devoted their attention to the building and repairing of
bridges. Wild water courses and impassable ravines were the chief
impediments to attendance on divine worship. The condition of bridges and
roadways became the care of the church; and in Scotland collections were
made by order of the General Assembly. For instance, the writer was informed
by the Rev. John Falconer that, during the incumbency of a predecessor in
the parish of Ettrick, a collection was made for a bridge on the North Esk
(probably the old bridge at Mary kirk); and another for a bridge over the
Dee at Braemar. The North Esk was often impassable, and accidents by ford
and ferry were of frequent occurrence. Commenting upon these, the minister
of Marykirk, the Rev. John Brymer, about 1790, writes very sagely in the Old
Statistical Account, as follows :—"It is to be observed that the North Esk,
in rapid torrents, not only descends the Grampian hills, overtops its banks
and inundates the valleys below, but with impetuous violence sweeps
everything before it, so that strangers ought by no means to enter rashly
into the river." Its fords and ferries leading to and from Fettercaim were:
1, The Cobleheugh ferryr with its adjacent ford at Marykirk. 2, The same at
Pert (the water port) further up the river. 3, The "king's ford" and ferry
at Capo. In 1730 the Kirk Session of Fettercaim, in reply to the minister of
Stracathro, granted £3 Scots to the ferryman, who had lost his boat by a
spate; and some time thereafter he came to say "that he had gotten on his
boat." 4, The ford of "Sandy ford," and the ferry on Linn Martin at
Chapelton. About the middle of last century John Gibb and his wife, Helen
Law, from the inscription on their headstone in Fettercaim Churchyard, were
tenants of Chapelton, and kept the brew-house or inn of Sandyford, with its
ferryboat. 5, " Sclateford," below the village of that name, now called
Edzell. And 6, The "Loups" ford, and the ferry above, where, on the Sundays
two hundred and forty years ago, when Newdosk ceased to be a separate
parish, the Kirk Session of Edzell paid to "Andrew, the minister's man, 20
shgs. Scots for putting ye people of Newdosk over the watter in a coble." Of
the bridges over the North Esk the first to be noticed, though not directly
connected with the parish, is the lower North Water Bridge between Montrose
and St. Cyrus. It was first projected by Thomas Christie, Provost of
Montrose, and a native of Fettercaim. He died before the work was subscribed
for, but his son Alexander, who succeeded him as provost, carried out the
design. The foundation was laid in 1770, and after five years was finished
at the cost of £6500, of which King George IIL gave £800. Two tablets on the
south parapet record these details, and also: "Traveller, pass safe and free
along this. bridge, built by subscriptions in the town of Montrose and two
adjacent counties," etc.; and in Latin, which may be translated: " Traveller,
pass on in safety, and be mindful of the king's bounty." The present bridge,
of four arches, at Marykirk was built by a joint-stock company, at a cost of
£10,000, and opened for traffic in 1815. Tolls and pontages were levied upon
it until, under the Roads and Bridges Act of 1875, the rights of the company
were redeemed and the charges laid upon the county road rates-of Forfar and
Kincardine. A vague tradition exists that, at a very remote period, a stone
bridge crossed the river at Marykirk or Aberluthnot, or confluence of the
Luthnot. The upper North Water Bridge at Pert is the next to be noticed. It
was first built in the sixteenth century by John Erskine of Dun, the friend
of Knox and the superintendent of Angus and Mearns. Concerning the builder,
tradition (as reported in the Old Statistical Account) says:
"That having had a drea.m or
vision, that unless he should build a bridge over 'Stormy Grain,' where
three waters ran into one, he would be miserable after death. Accordingly,
going out one day in a pensive mood and walking along the banks of the North
Esk„ he met an old woman near the spot where the bridge now stands, and
asking the name of the place, received for answer that it was. called *
Stormy Grain,' where three waters run in one. Hence, recognizing this to be
the spot to which his dream alluded, he immediately set about building a
bridge there; but the bridge being founded and the work going on, a spate in
the river swept it away ; upon which he ordered the work to be begun anew.
But after it was considerably advanced, it tumbled down a second time. Mr
Erskine was now so much discouraged that he fell into a deep melancholy and
kept his bed. One day, however, he observed a spider making two unsuccessful
attempts and succeeding the third time to form its web, he took courage,
caused the work to be resumed, and had the good fortune to succeed."
How long that bridge stood,
or when it gave place to-the present structure, is not known. It is,
however, on record that, about 1669, David Erskine of Dun repaired the
bridge and petitioned Parliament to let him levy customs for a certain
number of years. This was granted, and also the power of holding there an
annual fair in the month of October. Of the old bridge, a portion of the
north end and up side wall appears as a part of the present structure. The
Arnhall and Edzell suspension bridge for foot passengers, erected in the end
of last century, may be passed without farther remark. The Gannochy bridge,
higher up the river, on the Fettercairn and Edzell main road, may be
described, by quoting in the first place, from the Statistical Account of
the Parish, the words of the Rev. Robert Foote, written about 1792, as
follows:—
"There is a remarkable bridge
called Gannochie bridge upon the west side of this parish. It is thrown
across the N. Esk river, consists of one arch 52 feet over, stands on two
tremendous rocks, and is justly admired as a singular curiosity both in
regard to its situation and construction. It is with pleasure the writer
hereof takes the opportunity of making public the name and •condition of the
person at whose expense that useful work was raised. James Black, who was
tenant in the farm of Wood and parish of Edzell, agreed with a mason for 300
merks Scotch, and to lay down all materials. James was a very ingenious man,
and built the parapet walls with his own hands. . . . Three hundred merks
was a large siim to give sixty years ago, and the deed deserves to be
recorded. The bridge was built in 1732. Besides the above 300 merks, Mr
Black left 200 merks to the poor of the parish of Fettercairn and fifty
merks for upholding the bridge. Both sums were left to the management of the
Kirk Session here, and from this circumstance the incumbent thinks it proper
to publish these good deeds as worthy to be remembered and imitated."
So much for Mr Foote's
account; but Mr Black left additional sums for other useful and pious
purposes: 300 merks to build a bridge over the Cruick at Balrownie, on the
Brechin and Lethnot road; as well as 500 merks to «ndow a school at
Tullibardine in his native parish of Lethnot. On his tombstone there his
good deeds are recorded, and in addition this couplet:—
"No bridge on earth can be a
pass to heaven,
To generous deeds let yet due praise be given.
"Memento 1746 Mori."
Jervise, in his Land of the
Lindsays, confirms a story which appears to have had its foundation in that
above related of John Erskine and the Northwater Bridge. It is that, about
1731, several lives were lost in attempting to ford the river in the
vicinity of the Gannochy, and that the spirit of one of the drowned men made
three successive midnight calls on Mr Black, and implored him to build a
bridge and prevent further loss of life. And also thatr yielding to this
request, he built the bridge at the very spot the spirit pointed out. Mr
Foote does not allude to this story. A less sensational account of Black's
motive, which the writer got from the late Walter Strachan and he from his
mother who knew Black in his later years, bears that, owing to a serious
difference with the Kirk Session of Edzell, he attended Fettercairn church,
crossing the river on horseback by the old ford above the "Loups Brig."
Finding this very inconvenient, and being himself a mason, he hired workmen
and built the bridge which, by his somewhat ungrateful neighbours, was
nicknamed " Black's Grey Mare." The sequel of Walter's story is that James
Black incurred a heavy debt and disappeared for a year and a half; after
which he returned with money enough to meet all his liabilities, and
likewise at his death, in 1750, to suffice for the discharge of the
aforesaid bequests. In 1752 his brother Robert, tenant of Clochic in Lethnot,
handed to the Kirk Session of Fettercairn the monies left for the poor and
for the upkeep of the bridge. Of it the Kirk Session were zealous
custodians, and took great pains to prevent damage from heavy traffic. At
that period the millstones required in the district were brought from
Forfarshire; and when a new one was wanted, the tenants thirled to the mill,
turned out in a body to roll it axle-tree-wise to its destination. For this
purpose the new bridge became an easier way than the fords of the river. But
the Kirk Session objected, and, in terms of a lengthy minute in the year
1755, they complained to the sheriff and he interdicted the practice. The
bridge was then only half its present width, having been widened as it now
stands in 1796, at a cost of ,£300, by Lord Adam Gordon and William Lord
Panmure. The great flood of 4th August, 1829, filled the rocky gorge, which
measures, from the -crown of the arch to the bed of the stream, about thirty
feet. The suspension footbridge called the "Loups Brig," still further up
the river, was erected by Lord Adam Gordon. An iron railing and gate with
lock and key were at the same time erected on the Edzell end; but some
ill-disposed persons, under night, tore up the gate and part of the railing.
As no trace of these was left, they were no doubt hurled, stones and all,
into the deep dark pool below. The bridge of Auchmull stands outside the
parish; but it may be mentioned because it bears an inscription that, in
1820, William Lord Panmure and John Shand of The Burn built it; and that the
latter contributed 100 guineas for its erection and for the making of a new
road outside what are now The Burn policies. The Glenesk people forcibly
opposed the changing of the road, but they became reconciled when Mr Shand
intimated his contribution.
From the end of the
seventeenth century to the middle of the eighteenth the "pious work" of
building bridges was largely promoted, not only by individual bequests, but
by means of church collections and the proceeds of vacant stipends. In 1722,
collections, averaging .£6 Scots, were made in Fettercairn church; one for
the bridge on the Black burn below Meiklestrath, another for a bridge on
Cruick water, and a third for one in the parish of Kirkden. And in several
years following down to 1752, for bridges in Lethnot, Stracathro and Benholm;
also for those at Cowie, Mill of Halkerton, Mill of Luther, and on the
Mooran above Edzell. The bridge of Bervie was first erected in 1699 from the
proceeds of vacant stipends; and Fettercairn church being vacant in that
year, the stipend was available.
On the 11th May, 1727, the
Presbytery of Fordoun resolved,
"On the recommendation of Sir
Alex. Ramsay, principal heritor of Fettercairn, to expend the half-year's
stipend during the late vacancy (in 1723) on building a stone bridge over
the two small rivulets, which run, the one upon the west, and the other upon
the east side of the town of Fettercairn, and which for want of bridges are
very 'unsalve' in time of speats and in the winter season to the people of
the Parish in their going to and coming from church."
The subject of bridges may be
concluded, by referring briefly to one of the six or seven roads that
radiate from the village; because it was first made by Baron Sir John Stuart
to afford better communication with Laurencekirk,. but without any idea of
its ever becoming what it now is— the busiest and most frequented road in
the district. Its zigzag turns beyond the Luther are accounted for by the
fact that the landowners would consent only to a narrow way round between
their fields instead of a direct line through them. The Blackiemuir bridge,
in like manner angular and awkward, has a tablet bearing the date, 1786.