THE lands of Fasque,
Thaneston, Balnakettle, and Balfour, extending along the base of the
Grampians, are fertile and productive, even more so than some of those
portions of the parish lying further down on the level plain. They are
richly wooded; and their undulations, lying well to the sun, add much to the
picturesqueness of the landscape. The lands around Fettercairn village are
also very fertile and well wooded. The disastrous gales of 1892 and 1893
demolished the woods of Fettercairn, Fasque, and The Burn to a sad extent.
No one now living can possibly see them again as they once were in their
majestic loveliness.
On the estates of Balmain and
Drumhendry the soil is partly rich and fertile, but to a greater extent poor
and moorish. Large tracts of alluvial soil and of a stiff, brownish clay
occur. The estates of Dalladies, Arnhall, and The Burn, on the banks of the
North Esk, consist for the most part of thin and shallow soils, but are very
susceptible of cultivation. The woods of The Burn are extensive and
valuable.
On the lower reaches of
Balbegno estate, the farms of the Straths and the contiguous portions of
Arnhall, a deep mossy soil prevails. Down to a very recent period the
greater part of these lands was under water, and formed a vast extent of
lake or morass with numerous creeks and bays. But this has now almost
entirely disappeared.
The improvement by drainage
of this region will be afterwards noticed. The only remaining portion now
goes by the name of the Esslie Moss. It covers about 100 acres, and is still
undrained, being the deepest part of the original lake. Lying at a lower*
level than its surroundings, it seems destined to remain an unprofitable and
unwholesome swamp, affecting the sanitary condition of the immediate
neighbourhood.
The lower lying ground
immediately adjoining the village on the S.W. and S. sides was probably in
part an undrained swamp. But drainage works a marvellous change on such
lands, and these are now capable of producing rich crops to the
agriculturist. In former days. the hill burns were not so well confined to
their channels as now, and when in their courses they flowed over flat
ground, they spread over the whole territory in times of flood, as those who
have experienced flooding in these later days can quite well understand.
To the undrained expanse of
Fettercairn Parish may be applied the remark of some Laurencekirk wiseacre
given in Fraser's History of that Parish, viz., that "a hundred years ago
the deucks were quackin' a' the way frae Blackiemuir to Redmyre." If Arnhall
and Landsend be substituted for these two places, the space between them
down to a late period was all good quacking-ground for " deucks " and other
water fowls.
Mr Fraser also notices that,
according to tradition, the inhabitants of that marshy district were for
centuries subject to ague; and to escape its effects they betook themselves
to temporary abodes in the more elevated parts of the parish, and on the
adjoining lands of Garvock. Whether the inhabitants of the Fettercairn
marshy grounds ever resorted to the same expedient is not known; but that
they did so is very probable. At all events, their case was very similar;
only, that for elevated habitations they had ample room on the hillsides of
their own parish.1
In the days when might was
right, when "the key did not keep the castle nor the bracken bush the cow,"
bogs and lakes served a purpose. They constituted natural barriers of
defence. Of old, the only secure dwellings were erected upon islands and
other inaccessible sites in order to be out of the easy reach of enemies and
intruders. The crannogs or lake-island dwellings of ancient times (one of
which remains at the Loch of Leys, near Banchory) stood upon artificial
islets formed to supply the want of natural island sites.
The earliest church
buildings, such as those of Cowie, Dunnottar, Kinghornie, and St. Cyrus were
founded upon elevated spots surrounded more or less by water. This may be
sufficient to account for the situation of Fettercairn village, unless we
let our fancy wander and assert that, like the Grecian island Delos of old,
it arose out of the water. In modern days it has flourished by the
manufacture of a beverage much stronger than cold water.
According to the old
chroniclers, "The Towne of Fethyrkerne" in history existed nine hundred
years agor ranking in antiquity with either Brechin or Dunnottar; and it
undoubtedly had its original foundation under the shadow of "Fenella's
Castell of Fethircarne, the chiefest fortress of all the Mearns." Some
writers maintain that Fenella's Castle was at Kincardine, and others that
the Green Castle, or rather camp above Mill of Kincardine, was its site; but
the weight of opinion is greatly in favour of Greencairn. Both Greencairn
and Kincardine were water-guarded fortalices, of whose origin and early
occupation no record exists. These two names, however, are modern, not being
mentioned by the ancient chroniclers. The former was also called Cairngreen,
a Celtic word meaning the Sunny Hill or favoured spot, suitable for a royal
residence. Cairnton is still the name of the adjoining farm and homestead,
which in recent lease missives was designated as Cairnton and Cairngreen.
The Cairn being retained in the name of Fettercairn suggests, independently
of other reasons, that the site of the "Towne" or village in its primitive
fashion stood along the north side of the knoll of Greencairn, rather than
at Kincardine or the Green Castle. And although the inhabitants around the
old place are now very few, it was otherwise in ancient times. The locality
was thickly peopled even down to the early decades of the present century.
Besides the families of the principal tenants on the lands of Thornyhill,
Cairnton and Balbegno, the writer has heard old people relate that on these
lands they counted eighty or ninety "reekin' linns" (smoking chimneys),
whereas at the present time they do not far exceed one-tenth of that number.
That the ancient " Towne" may
have extended in straggling form towards the site of the modern village is
highly probable, from the fact that down to a comparatively recent period
houses and holdings were thickly dotted over the fertile fields that now
form the landscape. The town of Kincardine, of which not a house remains,
extended a half mile in length between its East and West Ports, from the
Castle to near Fettercairn House; and as late as the end of last century it
had as many as seventy or eighty inhabitants. Upon the decay and extinction
of the older Fettercairn on the one hand, and of Kincardine on the other, it
may be said that the modern village, like a "sweet Auburn," has flourished.
After the erection of Balbegno Castle and its occupation by the Woods, as
the Thanes and' Bailliaries of Fettercairn, the village on its west side was
restricted to its present boundary. And following the superiority of the
Woods of Balbegno, which terminated in the seventeenth century, John Earl
Middleton, as proprietor of the lands and mansion of Fettercairn on the east
side, became the superior, and the village was erected into a Burgh of
Barony. Again, on the south, the Ramsays of Balmain—whose oldest mansion
stood, not, as some suppose, on the Hill of Esslie, but on the rising ground
to the east of Balmain farmstead—made their power and authority to be felt
for good. And, on the north side, when Fasque became their residence, a
cordon of wholesome influence encircled the village and promoted its
prosperity. And down to the present day, under the benign sway of successive
owners and superiors, the same advantages have been enjoyed and justly
appreciated. Other places have envied Fettercairn; and at a time not long
past, the query used to be put, that if Kincardineshire could boast of only
four Baronets, why should three of them be located as proprietors in the
Parish of Fettercairn ? A native wag gave as the answer, "Because Sir
Alexander Ramsay of Balmain, Sir John Stuart Forbes of Fettercairn, and Sir
Thomas Gladstone of Fasque, have mair sense than the Deeside man."
The parish was so named from
the group of dwellings or "towne"; for the division of Scotland into
parishes was not made till the time of King David "the sair saint to the
crown," about the year 1130. The oldest form of the name as written by
Wyntoun, Prior of Lochleven, the rhyming chronicler who gives us the story
of Fenella and the murder of Kenneth III., is "Fethyrkerne." This term is
descriptive of the hillocks and prominent heights lying between the village
and Fenella's castle of Greencairn. Some authorities maintain that "Fotherkern"
was the original name. The oldest forms of Fordoun and Dunnottar were
conversely Fotherdun and Dunfother, in Celtic the promontory hills or
headlands. The Father elided into For occurs all over Scotland.
Fothra or Fodra was the actual name of a homestead on the prominent brae
face above the lake of Fasque. The beautiful lake of Fasque, twenty acres in
extent, formed in the early thirties by the late Sir John Gladstone, covers
the marshy ground formerly known as the "Bogs of Fodra." "Foderance" is the
name of a place in the parish of Kettins; and we have Fotheringham, near
Forfar. "Fidra" or "Fetheray " is a rocky basaltic islet on the coast of
Haddington. "Fethirale,r is the name of a croft near Dundee; and we have "Fetter,r
in Fetteresso, Fetterangus, Fetternear, &c,
A rather fanciful etymology
of Fettercairn is given by the late Rev. Robert Foote, in the Old
Statistical Account of Scotland, as follows : " Fetter signifies a pass, and
there are two large cairns at the top of the mountain and many small ones
lower down, near to which, according to tradition, a great battle was
fought, from which it is probable that the district got its name." The
tradition referred to by Mr Foote has not reached our day, and we have no
record remaining of any particular battle. It may have been one of Wallace's
encounters with the English before his overthrow of them at Dunnottar, or
that of Bruce's-victory of the Comyn at the foot of Glenesk, to be
afterwards noted in connection with Newdosk.
On the whole, Mr Foote's
derivation is unscientific, because there can be no manner of doubt that the
present name Fettercairn is a corruption of the older name Fether, or
Fotherkerne; and here, as in many other instances throughout Scotland that
can be cited, the local pronunciation follows the older name.
It may further be stated with
regard to the name that there have been no fewer than twenty different forms
of the word, as written at successive periods from the tenth century down to
the present time. They are, with approximate dates, as follows:—
In the tenth century it was
Fotherkern or Fethyrkerner according to the old chroniclers. In the
fourteenth century,. Fothercardine, Fottercardine, and Fetherkern. In the
fifteenth, Fethyrcarne, Fetterkarne, Fethirkerne, Feddirkairnr and
Feddirkeyrn. In the sixteenth, Fethircarn, Fethercarne, Fethirkern,
Fethircairne, and Fethircarny. In the seventeenth and eighteenth,
Fettercarden, Fettercarne, Fetter-cairne, Faittercairne, Fetterkairn, and,
lastly, the present modern form, Fettercairn. So many old variations of
spelling probably rest upon nothing else than the arbitrary fancy of each
writer, at a time when there was less writing done, and when words and
place-names were practically unwritten. Sir Herbert Maxwell, in his
"Scottish Land Names," gives a similar instance of twenty-five different
spellings of "Galloway." From these desultory remarks it may be inferred
that Fother, Fether or Fettw means the jutting ridge or ridges, and cairn
the hill upon which stood Fenella's castle.
The aggregate number of
farms, crofts, and homesteads,. old and new, within the bounds of the
parish, is about 114. A list of local place-names, with the meanings of such
a& are Celtic, will be given in another chapter.