"I cuist my line in
Largo Bay, And fishes I caught nine;
There’s three to boil,
and three to fry,
And three to bait the line."
The
Parish of Largo is
bounded on the east by the parishes of Newburn and Kilconquhar, on
the north by that of Ceres, on the west by that of Scoonie, and on
the south by Largo Bay. From east to west, its greatest breadth is
four miles, and from north to south four and a half. It contains
7585½ acres, including 200 of fore-shore. There are four villages
in the parish, three of which are near the Forth, and one is far
inland, to wit, Kirkton of Largo, or Upper Largo, Lower Largo,
Lundin Mill, and Back-muir of Gilston. Mr Oliphant, in describing
it in the old Statistical Account, in 1791, says:- "To the
traveller, the south part of this parish must afford a picturesque
and delightful scene of elegant country-seats, skirted with well
laid out and thriving plantations, populous villages, surrounded
with fertile fields, hill and dale, wood and water..... In
improvements, it may be justly said that this parish has led the
way to all the neighbourhood." An open field was scarcely to be
met with. Drainage had not been neglected. Useless marshes and
deceitful bogs had been turned into fruitful fields. The brake and
roller were in common use. Instead of the old-fashioned plough,
drawn by six cattle and two horses, which had been the common
thing twenty or thirty years before, a light well contrived plough
had been introduced, which, though drawn by only two horses,
reined by the ploughman, did the work better and more quickly.
Hand and horse hoeing were practised. When the crop was gathered,
it was "preserved in the barn-yard from vermin, by being placed
upon pillars of stone, 2 feet high." And, to crown all, machines
for threshing had been introduced! But these, "from their very
complex construction," were apt to go wrong, the horses had "a
dead draught," and were "made giddy by the circular motion."
Turnips and cabbage were successfully raised. "The carrot, the
Swedish turnip, and root of scarcity"
had "not answered expectation." But it was supposed that the
Swedish turnip would become very useful when the proper mode of
cultivating it was ascertained. Great attention was paid to the
rearing of cattle, and, consequently, these had been
"distinguished for beauty and size even in the London market."
Horses were bred both for draught and saddle. Sheep were fed. And
every family had swine. Land had increased so much in value, that
what had been let at 16s and £1 per acre twenty years before drew
£2 and £2 10s. Wheat, barley, oats, beans, and sometimes potatoes,
were shipped for Leith and the West country, and salt to Dundee
and Perth. Wood and iron were imported from Norway. There were
three corn, two barley, and three lint mills, as well as two
salt-pans in the parish. The weaving of linen and checks were the
principal industries. Flax was imported, and much of it was
dressed and spun in the parish. Common labourers only received
from ninepence to a shilling per day, and, so, those who had
families could not "live sumptuously." Indeed, Mr Oliphant says
"Except at a birth or marriage, or some other festival, they do
not in general taste butcher-meat. Meagre broth, potatoes, cheese,
butter in small quantities, and a preparation of meal in different
forms, make up their constant fare." Yet, "all things considered,
it is astonishing to see man, wife and children, in their Sunday’s
clothes all are clean and neat, with faces expressive of
contentment." Notwithstanding the "spirit of schism" which
prevailed, the people were "honest, sober and industrious," but
"more forward to sympathise with their neighbour in distress, than
to rejoice with him in his prosperity." Such is the outline of the
picture of his flock drawn by the minister a century ago.
The
Name
of the parish was formerly written, Largach,
Largauch, Largath, and Largav.
Upper Largo,
or the Kirkton of Largo,
which, in the words of Chambers, is "a remarkably agreeable little
village," is situated near the western boundary of the parish, and
three quarters of a mile from the sea. Its most prominent
buildings are the Parish Church, the Free Church, and Wood’s
Hospital. It also contains a comfortable inn, a gas-work, a post
and telegraph office, a good schoolhouse near the new cemetery,
and a branch of the National Bank. In 1837 the population was 413,
and in 1881 it was 362.
The Parish Church,
according to the New Statistical
Account, "was built in 1817 and in
1826, there was taken into the new building, an aisle belonging to
the old, by which the spire is supported, bearing date 1623. It
affords accomodation for upwards of 800." On one of the inner
walls there is a slab, which records, in Latin, that:- "This
church was first erected about the year 1300, in the reign of
Robert the Bruce, enlarged about the year 1400, ornamented with a
spire in 1623, again enlarged about 1688, and finally enlarged and
decorated in the year 1817." The inscription also preserves the
names of the heritors, minister, and architect, who rendered
themselves famous by the operations of 1817. As will yet be shown,
the church was first erected long before the year 1300. The
chancel and steeple are all that have been spared of the old
building; but even these seem to be comparatively modern. The
spire is dated 1628; and the chancel, which has been barbarously
plastered both outside and inside, has a panel, over the window,
bearing the motto, "Fear God," the date 1623, and the initials "P.
B.," while the arms are wasted away. The bell is dated 1636; but
it is worth no one’s pains to climb the steeple, as an outlook can
only be had through a small aperture. So determined have the
renovators been to hide the old work that a ceiling has been
inserted under the vaulted roof of the chancel; but while they
could spare funds for this, they economised their cash by putting
in wooden mullions ! This is the building which in Chambers’
Gazetteer of Scotland is described as "an ancient Gothic
fabric, with a spire rising from the middle!" The writer must have
gazed at it from a distance, for, though it is a pretty, neat
erection, and picturesquely situated, a glance at the masonry
shows that it is modern. There are few, if any, stones of interest
in the burying-ground; but that is more than made up by the great
number of mural marble monuments in the church. Among others
commemorated, are General and Admiral Durham, their father and
mother, their nephew, Thomas Calderwood Durham, and their niece,
Lilias Calderwood Durham, "the last of her race." There is also a
tablet in memory of Sir John Leslie, the distinguished
mathematician and Professor of Natural History, who was born in
Largo in 1766, and died at Coates, in Newburn parish, in 1832.
Another native, James Kettle, who lived to the good old age of 92,
and left £600 to the care of the Kirk-Session, is likewise
commemorated; and so are several other prominent men more or less
connected with the parish. While these stones are conspicuously
displayed on the walls, the monument of Sir Andrew Wood’s
descendants is allowed to lie ingloriously in the floor under two
pews! The old church was granted to the nuns of North Berwick hy
Duncan, Earl of Fife, and Earl Malcolm, his son, confirmed the
grant. William the Lion, in confirming their grants to these nuns,
specially mentions the Church of Largach. It was dedicated by
Bishop Bern-ham on the 16th Kal. of August 1243. Alexander Wod was
vicar here immediately before the Reformation. Reference has
already been made to him, and one of his illegitimate daughters,
on page 43. On the 10th of March 1559, a marriage was contracted
betwixt Alexander Carrik, "ane honorabill man," and Alisone Yod,
"dochter naturall" to "Maister Alexander Vod, vicar of Largow." At
the "handfasting," Carrik, his brother, and the vicar were
present, and signed a contract of the marriage, which was to be
solemnised between that date and the midsummer following. The
vicar delivered £20 at the handfasting, £40 was to be forthcoming
at the marriage, and another £40 within a year and a day after the
marriage. On the 13th of March, Jhone Spens, a burgess of North
Berwick, became surety and debtor for the £80 to Carrik. Of that
sum £30 was to be given by Dame Margaret Hume, Prioress of North
Berwick, and the remaining £50 by Wod. The Prioress and the vicar
bound themselves to relieve Spens. The shameless profligacy of
such men did much to ripen public opinion as to the necessity of
reformation. Those who wish to see the form of handfasting fuller
than it is in the above summary will find it in the Carte
Momalium de North-berwic. In 1597, Parliament dissolved the
kirks of Largo and Kilconquhar from the Abbey of North Berwick.
John Auchinleck was minister here from 1592 to 1619, and was
succeeded by his son Andrew in the following year, who was
translated to Dundee in 1642. James Fairlie, formerly Bishop of
Argyll, was thereafter presented, but was not received. This
unlucky wight was consecrated as a Bishop only two days before the
tumult about the liturgy, which led to the entire overthrow of the
Hierarchy. James Makgill was ordained at Largo in 1644. Lamont
relates several curious incidents that happened during Makgill’s
incumbency. The Commission of the Kirk appointed a fast to be kept
through the Kingdom, immediately before the coronation of Charles
the Second. This fast was observed at Largo on the 22d and 26th of
December 1650. On the second day the minister read the causes of
the fast, which were the sins of the King and his father’s house;
and the Earl of Lauderdale publicly acknowledged the sinfulness
and unlawfulness of the Engagement, his sorrow and remorse for
having acceded to it, and his resolution to beware of such courses
in future. Makgill then read the Solemn League and Covenant, and
Lauderdale holding up his hand sware it. The Kirk-Session gave him
a certificate bearing that they were well satisfied with his
repentance. Little did they know the man they had to deal with! In
1662, Parliament ordained that all persons in public trust should
take a Declaration, in which it was affirmed, inter alia,
that the Solemn League and Covenant was an unlawful oath, imposed
and taken against the fundamental laws and liberties. Sir George
Mackenzie, in his Memoirs of the Afairs of Scotland, says,
that the great design of this Declaration was to incapacitate
Crawfurd from being Treasurer, and Lauderdale from being
Secretary; but that "Lauderdale laugh’d at this contrivance, and
told them he would sign a cartfull of such oaths before he would
lose his place." Dr Burns, in his edition of Wodrow’s History,
expresses the opinion that Lauderdale "never forgot the
supposed indignity" that was put on him by the Covenanters in
Largo Church; and that it was only policy which prevented him from
coming out in his true character, as a persecutor, immediately
after the Restoration. Such a wretch could certainly never look
back with complacency on the Largo episode; and, in all
probability, he would not have humbled himself that day, if policy
had not been at the helm. Lamont describes a scene of a very
different kind which occurred in Largo Church in July 1652.
Makgill had finished his sermon and pronounced the blessing; but
before he could leave the pulpit two corporals of the English
regiment, which was lying at Largo and Leven, challenged him
because he had prayed for the prisoners in England—of whom
Lauderdale was one—as sufferers for righteousness sake. If he had
not been courageous, he would not have made such a reference in
his prayer in their presence. A few days previously, they had
quartered some of their men on him and Moncrieff of Scoonie,
although ministers in Fife had never been quartered on before. And
some of the soldiers, when they went to Largo church, "did sitt
ordinarlie (for contempt) in the stoole of repentance!" A year
later, the Presbytery of St Andrews met in the church of Largo,
and ordained that Thomas Wilson, the schoolmaster, should be
removed at the following Martinmas, "for profainlie taking the
name of the divill in his mouth twyse," for tippling, and
taunting, and not praying regularly every morning and evening in
the school. Wilson afterwards stood up in front of the pulpit,
while the preacher publicly rehearsed his faults, and then the
delinquent confessed on his knees that God was righteous, and
desired the people to pray for him. He seems to have been reponed,
for Lamont afterwards mentions him as schoolmaster, and says that
he was in -terred "betwixt his two wives," at Largo kirk, in 1670.
Makgill was one of those who would not conform to Episcopacy at
the Restoration, and who suffered in consequence. In April 1664,
Archbishop Sharp pronounced the sentence of suspension against him
and other six of his brethren, but their preaching was not stopped
at that time. Thirteen days afterwards, the High Commission
confined him to his parish, and for bade him to celebrate the
communion. In the following January, the sentence of suspension
was intimated to him by a messenger-at-arms, and in April 1665 he
was deposed. These incidents are recorded in the Life of Robert
Blair. Lamont tells how the patron would not present a
successor, and how, after six months had elapsed, Sharp presented
John Affleck or Auchinleck, whose father and grandfather had
ministered here before him. Only one of the heritors and three of
the elders gave him the right hand of fellowship, at his entry;
and, when, nearly two years later, he ventured to celebrate the
communion, the people, though earnestly invited, were so unwilling
to take part that there were only six tables instead of the ten or
eleven which had been usual in his predecessor’s time. It is a
long lane which has no turning. Like the other curates, he was
rabbled in 1689, and the same year he was deprived by the Privy
Council. In a rare tract entitled The Scots Episcopal
Innocence, printed in 1694, there is this brief entry :—August
29, 1689. "Mr John Auchin fleck, Minister at Largo; for not
reading and not praying, and praying for the late King. Present;
acknowledges the not reading and not praying. Deprived." Makgill
returned to his charge at this time, but died next year. He was
succeeded by William Moncrieff in 1691, who died in 1723. Fraser
tells, in his Life of Ralph Erskine, that he found, in one of the
note-books of that famous divine, an elegy on Moncrieff extending
to nearly 180 lines. Here is a specimen setting forth what he
thought of him :—
"This preacher showed himself
what few can do,
A Barnabus and Boanerges too,
A son of thunder, with alarming noise,
A son of comfort, with a charming voice.
Hence many came from distant parts, and saw
Sinai and Zion both, at Largo Law."
Moncrieff was succeeded by John Ferrier, whose
father was one of the magistrates of St Andrews. He occupied the
pulpit of Largo from 1724 to 1766, when he died. His son Robert
was ordained as assistant and successor to him in 1764, but having
adopted the principles of Independency, he resigned his charge in
1768, and, with Smith of Newburn, helped to form the congregation
at Balchristie. Robert Brown, who was ordained here in 1821,
joined the Free Church in 1843, and lived until a few years ago.
This venerable man, whose memory is fragrant, wrote the New
Statistical Account of the parish.
Wood’s Hospital is a handsome building,
designed by James Leslie, civil engineer, fully fifty years ago,
and erected at a cost of £2000. "It is fitted up for sixteen
inmates, each having a sitting and a sleeping apartment. In the
centre is a large hall, where they are convened to prayers morning
and evening; above which is a room for the meetings of the
patrons." At present, there are only eight inmates, and they are
all males. They are allowed to work for themselves, and each
receives thirty-five shillings every month, besides a share of the
garden. The hall, in which they meet for prayers, is the
entrance-hall of the building, and the floor is of pavement. In
the patrons’ room, which is immediately overhead, there is a very
small library. The governor acts as chaplain, and also discharges
the duties of church-officer. The previous hospital was built by
Robert Mill, "measter mason" in Edinburgh. The work began in April
1665, and about the end of the year, "the rooffe was put on this
buelding, and sclaitted and glased. It consisted of thrie roofs
one to the east, one to the north, and one to the west. The entrie
of it looked to the south." There were "24 divers rowrnes, with a
publicke hall; in each rowme ther was a bed and a closett and a
lowme, being all fyre rowmes, with a large garden; a stone bridge
for itts entrie; a howse besyde for the gardiner, two story high.
Abowt 6 persons were entered to stay at the said hospitall about
Candelmisse 1667." John Wood, who was a descendant of the famous
Sir Andrew Wood of Largo, was a courtier, and, though a wealthy
man, died in straitened circumstances in London, as the money he
had with him ran short. He was buried in Largo church, in July
1661. On the 7th of July 1659, he executed a deed of
mortification, to build and uphold an hospital in this parish, and
to maintain therein, "threttein poore indigent and infirme
persones." This mortification was ratified by Parliament in 1661.
If tradition is correct, when he returned to the neighbourhood
after an absence of fifty-five years, he wished to see his
relative, the laird of Grange; but that selfish man, imagining
that he might require or wish pecuniary help, declined to meet
him, which so enraged the stranger that he resolved to devote his
fortune to the erection and endowment of the school at Drumeldrie,
and the hospital at Largo. In 1657, he built the wall round the
churchyard.
Largo House, which is immediately to the
westward of the Kirkton, was built in 1750; but one of the round
towers of the earlier building is still to be seen. It has been
alleged that at one time it was a jointure-house of the Queens of
Scotland; but I have seen nothing to substantiate that statement.
There can be no doubt, however, that the old house was built by
Sir Andrew Wood, the famous and first great sea-captain of
Scotland. Tytler quotes from a charter under the great seal, dated
the 8th of March 1482, to show that James the Third granted to
Andrew Wood, his own intimate servant and a citizen of Leith, the
lands and village of Largo, in consideration of his gratuitous and
faithful services, freely undertaken both by sea and land, in
peace and war, within and without the kingdom, and conspicuously
against his English enemies, at the risk of serious personal
danger. Soon afterwards, Wood set to work and built certain houses
and a fortalice on his lands of Largo, in order to resist and
expel the pirates, who invaded the kingdom; and, with a grim sense
of the eternal fitness of things, he made his English captives act
as masons. These facts are set forth in another charter under the
great seal, dated the 18th of May 1491, which Tytler also cites,
and in which James the Fourth gives Wood further liberty to build
a castle at Largo with iron gates. By far the best account of
Wood’s exploits is to be found in Pitscottie’s History of
Scotland. With much simplicity and graphic force, he tells how
Wood bearded the nobles after the death of the unfortunate James
the Third, in 1488, how the two lordly hostages narrowly escaped
hanging at the yard-arm, because he was longer detained than his
men expected, and how Captain Barton informed the Council, "that
there were not ten ships in Scotland would give Captain Wood’s two
ships the combat, for he was so well practised in war, and had
such artillery and men, that it was hard dealing with him by sea
or land." Wood was soon reconciled to. James the Fourth, and
served him as faithfully as he had done his father. It was in or
about 1490 that five piratical vessels entered the Clyde, and
chased one of the King’s ships to Dumbarton. By special request,
Wood set out in search of them, and after a hard fight brought
them all prisoners to Leith. The English could ill brook such a
defeat, but no one cared to tackle the Scottish sea-lion. At
length, Steven Bull, with "three great ships, well man-steid, well
victualled and well artilleried," took in hand to bring Wood to
the English King, either dead or alive. Confident of attaining his
purpose, he sailed for the Forth, and lay behind the May, to watch
for Sir Andrew as he returned from Flanders. Early on a summer
morning two ships were perceived coming round St Abb’s Head. Bull
immediately sent aloft some Scottish fishermen, whom he had
captured, to see if it was Sir Andrew. At first they pretended
ignorance, but, on the promise of their freedom, they acknowledged
that the two vessels were Wood’s. The result can best be told in
Pitscottie’s own words:- "Then the Captain was blyth, and caused
pierce the wine, and drank about to all his shippers and captains
that were under him, praying them to take courage, for their
enemies were at hand; for the which cause he caused order his
ships in the fier of war, and set his quarter-masters and
captains, every man in his own room; syne caused, his gunners to
charge their artillery, and put all in order and left nothing
undone pertaining unto a good captain. On the other side, Sir
Andrew Wood came peartly forward, knowing no impediment of enemies
to be in his geat; till at the last, he perceived thir three ships
under sail, and coming fast to them in fier of war. Then Sir
Andrew Wood, seeing this, exhorted his men to battle, beseeking
them to take courage against their enemies of England, who had
sworn and made their vows, that they should make us prisoners to
the King of England; but, will God, they shall fail of their
purpose. Therefore set yourselves in order, every man in his own
room. Let the gunners charge their artillery; and the cors-bows
make them ready, with the lyme-pots and fire-balls in our tops,
and two-handed swords in your fore-rooms; and let every man be
stout and diligent for his own part, and for the honour of this
realm. And thereto he caused fill the wine, and every man drank to
other. By this the sun began to rise, and shined bright upon the
sails; so the English-men appeared very awfully in the sight of
the Scots, by reason their ships were very great and strong, and
well furnished with greater artillery; yet, notwithstanding, the
Scots afeared nothing, but cast them to windward of the
Englishmen; who, seeing that, shot a great canon or two at the
Scots, thinking they should have stricken sails at their boast.
But the Scottish-men, nothing affeared therewith, came swiftly a
windward upon Captain Steven Bull, and clapt together from hand,
and fought there from the sun-rising while the sun go to, in the
long summer-day; while all the men and women, that dwelt near the
coast, came and beheld their fighting. The night sundred them,
that they were fain to depart from other. While, on the morn, that
the day began to break fair, and their trumpets to blow on every
side, and made them quickly to battle; who clapt together, and
fought so cruelly, that neither the shippers nor mariners took
heed of their ships; but fighting still, while an ebb tide and
south-wind bure them to Inchcap, foreanents the mouth of Tay. The
Scottish-men, seeing this, took courage and hardiment, that they
doubled their strokes upon the English-men; and there took Steven
Bull, and his three ships, and had them up to the town of Dundee."
The King was greatly pleased and richly rewarded Sir Andrew, and
chivalrously sent back Bull and his men as a present to the
English King, with the message that if any of his captains should
in future disturb his people in Scottish waters they would not be
so well treated. Sir Andrew never gave up his sailor ideas, and
the canal can still be traced in which tradition says he was rowed
to the parish church. Long may his memory be cherished as the
founder of the Scottish navy, and as one of the boldest and truest
sons of a heroic nation. Through course of time the estate of
Largo passed into another family, and in 1662, according to
Lamont, Sir Alexander Durham, the Lord Lyon, bought it from Gibson
of Dune, for about 85,000 merks. He died unmarried, next year, and
left it to his nephew Francis, the son of his celebrated brother,
the Rev. James Durham of Glasgow. Francis was succeeded in the
estate, in 1667, by his brother, who was the grandfather of that
James Durham, who married Anne, daughter of Thomas Calderwood of
Polton and Margaret Steuart. [Margaret was the grand-daughter of
Sir James Steuart, Lord-Advocate after the Revolution, and the
authoress of the shrewd and fascinating Letters and Journals,
which were first published in the Coltness Collections, in 1842,
and re-printed by Lieutenant-Colonel Fergusson in 1884.] They had
three sons, who were distinguished for their bravery, to wit,
James, Thomas, and Philip. James was born in 1754, and entered the
army when he was only fifteen. "In 1794 he was appointed Colonel
of the Fifeshire regiment of Fencibles, which he had raised, and
immediately obtained the rank of Brigadier-General. He served in
the Irish rebellion;" and had "for some years the command of the
Eastern District of Scotland. In 1830 he attained the rank of
General in the army." For many years before his death he resided
almost constantly at Largo House. He was "kind, neighbourly, and
humane." His constitution was unbroken, until a few days before
his death, although he was 86. He succeeded to the estate at his
father’s death, in 1808, and at his death in 1840 it passed into
the possession of his nephew Thomas, the son of Lieutenant-Colonel
Thomas Durham, who had died in 1815. Two years after the General’s
death, his brother Philip succeeded to the estate of Largo. "He
was born in 1763, and having entered the navy in 1777, was acting
signal-officer in the Royal George when she foundered at Spithead
in 1782, a catastrophe which only two of her officers survived."
He was appointed Rear-Admiral in 1810, Vice-Admiral in 1819,
Admiral in 1830, and Commander-in-Chief at Portsmouth in 1836. "An
almost uninterrupted course of professional employment, and a not
less remarkable series of victories, fell to his share, from the
13th February 1793—when, as commander of the Spitfire, he took the
first tricolor flag that was struck to the British ensign, within
two days after hostilities had been declared—until, by a singular
coincidence, the last French colours at the close of the long war,
were hauled down in Guadaloupe, at his summons on the 10th of
August 1815." This worthy successor to Sir Andrew Wood died in
1845. The estate was sold, in 1868, to Mr Johnstone, and at that
time the old sculptured stone, which stood on the lawn, and the
cannon, which had belonged to the Royal George, were both removed.
There are still some very old fruit trees in the orchard.
Lower Largo stretches along the coast
for fully halfa-mile. The western portion is known as Drummochie,
and the eastern extremity bears the name of Temple. A winding walk
called the Serpentine connects Temple with the Kirkton, which is
half-a-mile due north. If Upper Largo has the advantage of
containing the Parish Church, the Free Church, and Wood’s
Hospital; Lower Largo can boast that it is nearer the waves, is
the birth-place of Alexander Selkirk, and possesses the Harbour,
the U. P. Church, and two Baptist Churches, both of the latter
being very near the water. Spence Oliphant, in the old
Statistical Account, says that "since the demission of Mr
Ferrier, who, in conjunction with a Mr Smith, minister at Newburn,
formed a sect of Independents, a spirit of schism has prevailed in
this and all the adjacent parishes." At that time fully a third of
the population of the parish were "Separatists," as he called
them. When Mr Brown prepared the New Account, in 1837, the
proportion of Dissenters was about the same; but six years later
he headed the Free Church movement in the parish, and so increased
the Dissenters still more. What is now the U. P. congregation was
formed in connection with the Relief Church. The "spirit of
schism," of which Mr Oliphant complains, may have prevailed; but
the immediate cause of the setting up of this congregation was the
appointment of Oliphant’s predecessor—David Burn—as Ferrier’s
successor in the Parish Church in 1769. When Burn knew that there
was opposition to him, he declined the call; but the patron, the
Laird of Largo, nothing daunted, issued another presentation to
him, which he accepted. "The people," says Mackelvie, in his
Annals and Statistics, "were not so willing to yield to the
patron’s wishes as the ministry, and a number of them carried
their non-compliance so far as to withdraw from the Established
Church, and cast in their lot among the Dissenters. In 1770, they
applied for and obtained supply of sermon from the Relief
Presbytery of Edinburgh. The patron was generous enough to grant
them a site for a place of worship. On this site they began to
build the proposed edifice. But being very limited alike in number
and pecuniary resources, they could not readily command the
co-operation they required. Nothing disheartened, they at length
set to work. Men, women, and children, were alike zealous, and
when the masons towards the end of their day’s labour left off
their work for want of material, they were often surprised next
morning to find an abundant supply—the men with barrows, the women
with their aprons, and children with creels, having procured it
for them over night from the beach, which skirts the village. The
congregation met in the open air till the church was completed. It
cost, exclusive of free carriages, the modest sum of £18 4s." The
new church, which is a very neat building, is seated for 400, and
cost £1200. It bears, under the initials of the esteemed pastor,
the date 1871. John Goodsir, who was "a physician by profession,
and a pastor by principle," preached to the Baptists of Largo for
twenty years. He was grandfather of the famous Professor Goodsir
(see Part I., p. 64). The population of Lower Largo, in 1837, was
567, and it has not increased greatly since.
Harbour and Fishing.—The Harbour is a
very small miserable affair, at the mouth of the Kiel Burn, near
the imposing railway bridge. The fishing has had many ups and
downs. Lamont complains that in 1657, 1658, 1662, and 1663, there
were few or no herring caught on the Fife side, and not many at
Dunbar. Some thought there had not been the like for a century
before, and "beganne to feare ther sould be no dreve hireafter."
According to Sibbald, in 1710, there were "ordinarily three
fishing boats with five men in each, and in the herring season,
they have four boats with seven men in each." Eighty-one years
later, Oliphaut wrote:- "About ten years ago, fish abounded on
this coast, particularly haddock, of a very delicate kind. But
since that period, fish of every kind have become scarce, insomuch
that there is not a haddock in the bay. All that remain, are a few
small cod, podlies, and flounders. The fishermen have also
disappeared, who, 20 years ago, constituted the chief part of the
inhabitants of Largo and Drumochy. At present there is not a
fisherman in Largo, and only 1 in Drumochy, who fishes in summer,
and catches rabbits in winter." The only fishery to which Mr Brown
refers in 1837 is the salmon stake-net fishery, which had been
commenced a few years before. In 1883, there were 36 boats, manned
by 78 men and boys. The comparative position of the Largo
fishermen is shown by the table on Part I., page 56. While these
pages are passing through the press (April 1886), a gloom is
hanging over the place through the loss of the "Brothers." This
boat was last seen on the 30th of March, about 50 miles east of
the May. She had a splendid crew, and had weathered many a storm.
It is believed that she was swamped by a heavy sea, while the crew
were "hauling their lines," and the hatches off. One of the men
leaves a widow and a family of ten, while his two sons, who were
drowned with him, respectively leave a widow and three children,
and a widow and two. The skipper leaves a widow and four children.
Alexander Selkirk.—Two centuries ago,
there was a prosperous shoemaker and tanner in Lower Largo, named
John Selcraig. His seventh son, Alexander, who was born in 1676,
proved a wild, restless youth. He was only thirteen when John
Auchinleck, the Episcopal incumbent of Largo, was rabbled by "a
great mob armed with staves and bludgeons."
It would have mattered little, to one of his
age and disposition, whether the obnoxious minister was
Presbyterian or Prelatic. Such an opportunity for furious fun
would have been irresistible, even although his eldest brother had
not been ring-leader, and accordingly he took part. Six years
later, he was summoned before the Kirk-Session for misbehaving in
the church; but, instead of appearing, he went "away to the seas."
His disposition seems to have remained unchanged, for in another
six years, to wit, in 1701, when he was again at home, a strong
young man of five-and-twenty, he raised a tumult in his father’s
house. His younger brother Andrew, who was of weak intellect, had
brought in a can of salt water, and laughed at him when he took a
drink of it by mistake. Alexander was so enraged at being laughed
at, that he struck him twice with a staff. Andrew cried for his
eldest brother, John; but, before he could appear on the scene,
Alexander tried to get into the upper room, where he had a pistol,
and was only prevented by his father sitting down on the floor
with his back to the door. On seeing John, he cast off his coat
and challenged him to a combat of "dry neifs." The father then
rushed between his sons to separate them; but the young sailor
seized them both and bore down his brother’s head. It was good for
this brother that he had a wife. She now came into the room, and
at once set to work to wrest Alexander’s hands from the head and
breast of her husband, who gladly escaped from the house, as soon
as his better half managed to release him. For this outbreak, he
was dealt with by the Session, and publicly rebuked before the
congregation. Soon after this he went back to sea, and became
sailing master of the Cinque Ports, of which Charles Pickering was
captain. The consort ship—the St George—was commanded by William
Dampier, who was the originator of the privateering expedition to
the South Seas, for which these ships had been fitted out. Dampier
was full of brilliant designs, but was extremely irritable and
vacillating. Pickering having died, Lieutenant Stradling was
appointed as his successor. Hitherto, the venture had been most
unfortunate, and discontent and wrangling broke out among the
crews. Selkirk—for he altered his name to that form—who had no
confidence in Stradling, had a remarkable dream "in which he was
forewarned of the total failure of the expedition and shipwreck of
the Cinque Ports." He accordingly made up his mind to leave the
vessel on the first favourable opportunity. Having reached Juan
Fernandez, two or three mouths after Pickering’s death, they
refitted their ships, and, while so engaged, "a violent quarrel
broke out between Captain Stradling and his crew." The men were so
discontented that forty-two out of the sixty resolved not to
return on board; but, wearying of the island, Dampier managed to
reconcile them to their captain. A French ship having come in
sight, the two privatcers set off in such hot pursuit that a few
of their men were left behind. The Cinque Ports returned for them;
but finding two French ships, of thirty-six guns each, at anchor,
Stradling sailed for Peru, and Dampier did the same, leaving the
men meantime to their fate. After adventures of many kinds, there
was such a quarrel that the two ships parted company. The Cinque
Ports cruised for several months along the shores of Mexico, and
during this period Stradling and Selkirk differed so much, that
the latter determined to leave. Want of provisions, and the state
of the vessel, forced them to return to Juan Fernandez, where they
found two of the men they had left six months before. The
relations between the captain and the sailing-master getting more
strained than ever, Selkirk was landed, with his chest, a few
books among which was a Bible, a gun, a kettle, an axe, and some
other necessaries, just before the ship got under weigh. The sound
of the oars as the boat moved away caused him to realise the
horror of being left alone, perhaps, for life. He rushed into the
water, and besought them to return, but Stradling was inexorable.
At first, Selkirk was so dejected that he only ate when forced by
the pangs of hunger, but by degrees he became reconciled to his
lot. It was eighteen months before he could absent himself for a
whole day from the beach, where he watched for a friendly sail. He
built two huts—one of which he used as a kitchen—and was able to
keep himself in food and clothes by his fleetness and ingenuity.
The island, which is eighteen miles in length and six in breadth,
is remarkably beautiful, and in those days it abounded with goats,
which he ran down and caught. With his knife and a nail he shaped
and sewed the goat-skins into garments. Seals and shell-fish
varied his table, and the cabbage-palm served as a substitute for
bread. Rats were so plentiful that he had to tame some wild cats
to protect him during his sleep. He taught his tame goats and cats
to dance, and "often afterwards declared, that he never danced
with a lighter heart or greater spirit any where to the best of
music, than he did to the sound of his own voice with his dumb
companions." His early training and his father’s godly example
came back on him, and much of his time was spent in devotion. With
tears in his eyes, he afterwards said, that "he was a better
Christian while in his solitude than ever he was before, and
feared he would ever be again." He remained monarch of all he
surveyed for four years and four months, when, curiously enough,
he was relieved by another privateering expedition, of which
Dampier was also the projector, but not the commander. On the 31st
of January 1709, the Duke and Duchess came in sight of Juan
Fernandez, and a party landed next day. They were as surprised to
see him as he was pleased to see them. He caught goats for them
which their swiftest runners and a bull-dog could not overtake.
Salt and spirits he did not relish, owing to his long abstinence
from them, and shoes caused his feet to swell. He soon became a
favourite, and got the command of their second prize, which was
fitted up as a privateer, and named the Increase. Captain Rogers
seems to have been a model bucaneer, as, on one occasion, it is
specially mentioned, that before attacking a ship, the crew went
to prayers: and he was so tolerant, in his "floating
common-wealth," that while he used the Church of England service
on the quarter-deck, the Papists had mass in the great cabin
below—being, as he said, the low church-men in this case.
It was not until October 1711 that Selkirk landed in England. The
account of his adventures excited great interest in London. There
was still "a strong but cheerful seriousness in his look, and a
certain disregard to the ordinary things around him, as if he had
been sunk in thought;" and he "frequently bewailed his return to
the world, which could not, as he said, with all its enjoyments,
restore to him the tranquillity of his solitude." After getting
his share of the prize-money he came back to Largo early next
spring, and arrived on a Sabbath after his relatives had all gone
to church. He went after them, and, ere the service was ended, his
mother—moved by the unerring maternal instinct—recognised him, and
with a cry of joy rushed to his arms. They immediately left the
church. He stayed for some time in the old village, and
constructed a cave in his father’s garden, through which the
railway now runs. He loved to wander alone in Keil’s Den, and to
take solitary boating excursions, and seemed to return with
reluctance to the haunts of men. He should not have left his
island home. In vain his friends tried to cheer him. But, alas!
in Keil’s Den, he met a lonely lassie herding her father’s
oniy cow; and her solitary occupation, and innocent looks, made
such an impression on him, that he at last resolved to marry her.
Afraid of the jests of his friends, they eloped, and he never was
seen again in Largo. Like most other wives, Sophia Bruce made a
great difference on her husband, and when Sir Richard Steele met
him in the streets of London he did not know him. Copies of the
Power of Attorney and the Will, which he made in January 1717 in
favour of his fair Sophia, are preserved in the appendix to
Howell’s Life and Adventures of Selkirk. She must have died
soon after, for about eight years later, "a gay widow, by name
Frances Candis or Candia, came to Largo to claim the property left
to him by his father." Having proved her marriage to him, and the
Will which was dated in 1720, and also his death as Lieutenant of
His Majesty’s ship Weymouth in 1723, her claims were adjusted, and
she left Largo. He does not appear to have had any children. A few
mementos of his undisputed reign in the far-off isle were long
preserved in the old home. Sir David Baxter bought his "kist," and
presented it to the Antiquarian Museum in Edinburgh. His drinking
cup, with the silver rim and wooden foot added by Archibald
Constable, is also there. And his gun is preserved by the
representatives of the late Mr Lumsdaine of Lathallan. The house
in which he was born is demolished; but the accompanying
illustration will recall it to those who knew it, and acquaint
others with its appearance. A recess has been made in the wall of
the upper storey of the house which now stands on its site, and,
there, a striking monument in bronze, designed by Mr Stuart
Burnett, has been placed, at the expense of Mr David Gillies,
net-manufacturer, who is a relative of Selkirk’s. The 11th
December 1885 will ever be a red-letter day in the local calendar.
The triumphal arches, the great processions, the Earl of
Aberdeen’s speeches, and the unveiling of the monument by his
Countess, will never be forgotten. Selkirk would not have been so
famous if De Foe had not elaborated his adventures in the
inimitable "Robinson Crusoe." In the old, crowded burying-ground
of Bun-hill Fields, a striking monument to De Foe is to be seen,
built by the penny subscriptions of his youthful readers; for he
is best remembered by this popular story; while most of his other
works are only known to book-collectors. On Juan Fernandez itself,
a tablet in memory of Selkirk has stood for eighteen years, and
now a statue of Crusoe graces his birth-place.
Largo Bay extends from Kincraig Point to
Methil, a distance of five miles and a half in a straight line,
but much more, of course, on the curve. It is marked, says
Oliphant, "by a ridge of sand..... . . . called by fishermen the
Dike. Of this there is a tradition, although probably not well
founded, among the oldest inhabitants of Largo, that there was
formerly a wall or mound running from Kincraig Point to that of
the Methil, containing within it a vast forrest, called the Wood
of Forth." The roots of the trees of this submerged forest can
still be seen at extra low tides. It is almost superfluous to say
that the bay is well adapted for bathing.
Lundin Mill—or Lundie Mill, as it is
usually called— is so close to Lower Largo that it almost seems to
form a continuation of it. This village is not mentioned by
Sibbald. Perhaps, it did not exist in his time; or, it may have
been so small that he did not deem it worthy of notice. As the
name implies, it grew around the Mill, just as Upper Largo did
around the Church, and as Lower Largo did beside the Harbour. The
mill was there long before Sibbald wrote. Lamont says, that in
October 1657, "William Lundy caused stoole Lundy Mille all new;
the wright that wrought it was James Edee, the said William’s
brother in law. Robert Maitland, Laird of Lundy, gave him two
great elme tries for to stoole the said mule, which grew out
without the deike, betuixt the hayre and coall horse stabell.
(Remember, the said William, at that time, said to the Laird, that
he sould never, in his time, seike any more timber from him for
the said mule.) Robert Bayle at this time was miller ther." This
is the earliest notice which Lamont specially bestows on the old
mill, and it is a pretty fair specimen of his minute entries. He
had previously referred to William Miller, as the miller, in 1652;
and to a spate, in 1655, when "the water entred the mille-doore,
beate stronglie upon the walls of the houses ther, ran over
the head of the bridge, it being biger, by a foote or halfe a
foote then the bridge itselfe." From this entry it appears that
there were at least some houses there at that time besides the
mill. In 1662, the same local chronicler relates that "att Lundy
Mule, the corne kill" took fire, "haveing 11 bolls oatts on hir,
belonging to Symon Cowtrie." The roof was completely burned; and
the three bolls of oats, which were saved, were "ill spoilt." Old
Robert Baillie was "dryster" that day, and William Lundy, master
of the mill. This mill-master bought a part of Boarhills from his
fatherin-law in 1666, for about 5000 merks, but one-half of
that sum was allowed "for his tocher." His wife died, and he took
"a second fitt of distraction," the first being before he was
married. Plainly, he was not fitted to live alone, and so he took
another wife in 1669. Lamont says—"Remember, this marriage was
first proposed be him to hir on a Sabath day att Largo kirke, and
afterward accomplished ther on a Sabath after sermon privatly."
Before his first wife was buried, this other was spoken of at
Lundin House, where she was a servant, as "a fitt woman for his
second wife." And there they supped on the marriage night, dined
the next day, "and went home privatly att night." Whether this old
miller of Lundy took any more fits of distraction, or any
more wives, is not recorded by his gossiping neighbour. In 1837,
the population of Lundin Mill was 453, and at present is probably
rather less. There are some very good villas near the Links, and
the place is popular with visitors. The Postmaster-General has
provided a collecting box for letters, and the inhabitants thrive
well enough without gas. There is a comfortable, homely hotel,
with stabling attached.
The Standing Stones of Lundin are very
conspicuous objects, nearly half-a-mile further west than the
village.
The illustration conveys a capital idea of the
stones, but a very erroneous one of the stature of the
inhabitants. The most massive of the three is fifteen feet high,
fully two feet thick, and its greatest breadth is about six and
a-half feet. The other two are rather taller, but are not so
substantial. They are supposed to be as deep in the ground as they
are above it. Whether that is quite the case or not, it is
marvellous how such huge blocks of stone could be brought here and
erected at a remote age, when there were no engineering
appliances. The visible portion of the largest must be fully ten
tons in weight. In 1791, Spence Oliphant says:- "There are also
fragments of a fourth, which seems to have been of equal magnitude
with the other three. There is no inscription, nor the least
vestige of any character to be found upon them." It would have
been wonderful if the same remark could still have been made, for
here, as elsewhere, come silly, contemptible wretches, who think
to immortalise themselves, by scratching their unknown names on
monuments of historical or antiquarian interest. It is with no
love for Popish penance that I would suggest that such vandals
should be made to lick out their offensive handiwork. Oliphant
says that "the tradition is, that they are the grave-stones of
some Danish chiefs, who fell in battle with the Scots near this
place." In 1837, Brown adds, that "they are conjectured to be of
Roman origin; by others, to be the gravestones of Danish chiefs,
who fought here and were conquered by Banquo and Macbeth; and, by
others, perhaps, with most probability, to be Druidical remains.
Ancient sepulchres are found near them." That they were raised in
memory of some battle, or in honour of some mighty warriors, is
very probable; but they were certainly not raised to commemorate
any Danish chiefs, who fell under Banquo and Macbeth. It has long
been known that both Banquo, and the Danish invasions in the reign
of Duncan, are inventions of the fertile brain of Hector Boece.
How came you here? Who bade you stand
Grim sentinels o’er sea and land?
Did grateful nation you uprear,
In mem’ry of a patriot dear?
Did some repulsed invader sue
For leave to lay his slain ‘neath you?
Or were your sides, in days of yore,
Of't stained with sacrificial gore?
No picture, symbol, nor a word
You bear, to shew what you record:
Nor threat nor bribe can make you tell
The secret which you keep too well !
Lundin Tower is barely half-a-mile to
the northwest of the Standing Stones. In its solitary grandeur, it
forms a striking feature in the landscape. Until ten years ago it
was hidden by the modern mansion of Lundin, but at that time the
house was demolished; and the old tower left alone. It is said to
have formed part of the old castle, built in the reign of David
the Second—1329-1371—but it is very doubtful if any part of it is
quite as old as that. It has evidently been subjected to many
alterations and additions. The two corbelled turrets may have been
added at a later date, and at that time it was probably
heightened; yet, as a whole, it seems to belong to the early part
of the seventeenth century. Like a great many other old buildings,
it contains a room in which Queen Mary is said to have slept. In
this case, it is a very small one, at the top of the tower; but
the view is magnificent. The Gothic window, however, which now
lightens it, has been inserted. With the exception of the two
small rooms at the very top, there is nothing in the tower except
the staircase. On one of the platforms, the blood-stains of a
tragic murder were pointed out until quite recently; but a new
floor now covers what could not be washed out—and it may he
confidently expected that the antiquated ghost, which has so long
haunted the place, will now be sensible enough to depart. A
fragment of the modern building has been preserved at the base, to
serve as an occasional luncheon room for the worthy owner—Mr
Gilmour of Montrave. The key is kept by the game-keeper, who lives
hard by; but visitors are not desired. Strangers can see really
all that is worth seeing from the outside. The large garden is
turned into a field, although the surrounding walls still remain.
There are also many majestic old trees growing in the
neighbourhood of the tower; and there is the invariable adjunct of
a Fife lairdship—a doocot—which is said to have served originally
as a private chapel, and in the floor of which, according to
tradition, a lucky labourer found a pot of gold. Lamont gives some
curious information about the repairs, alterations, birds, and
incidents of his time. In 1649, the tower-head was covered with
lead at an expense of more than 500 merks Scots. Both the house
and the "dowcoat" were pointed, in 1655, by "one David Browne, in
Enster, a sclater," for which he and his son received 24s Scots
each day for their wages, besides their food. Many alterations
were carried out in 1660 and 1661. At the latter date, "the Lady
caused make a new chemlay fireplace] for the hall of Lundy, of the
newest fashion, with long barrs of iyron before, with a high backe
all of iyron behinde. It was meade by one Androw Mellen, smith in
Leven. It was about 12 stone weight, and more, at 5 markes the
stone, so that, one way or other, it stood neire fowre pound
sterling." Ten years afterwards a new bake-house and brew-house
were added, and for the second time the hall was adorned with new
green cloth hangings, "with stampt gilt leather betwixt every
peice." In 1653, the chronicler, who was factor on this estate,
planted some elms and firs in the south quarter of the garden
yard. The previous year Captain Weilkesone, of Fairfax’s regiment,
who was quartered at Lundin, "caused the chirurgion..... . . . .
to draw blood of his whole company." Possibly, they had not lost
much in active service! The Laird of Lundin had been taken
prisoner at the battle of Worcester, in September 1651 ; but in
1652, Cromwell let him home for four months, and again in 1654 he
got a pass. In September 1657, he returned for the third time to
his beautiful estate, but only to die of consumption. He lingered
until December 1658, when he passed peacefully away, and, eight
days later, "was interred at Largo church, att night, with
torches." He was only 36, and his son, who had been educated at
Cupar and St Andrews, died in 1664, when he had barely reached his
majority. The young man was buried with so much pomp, that Lamont
devotes a whole page to an account of the funeral and the expenses
incurred. The details are very interesting, but are too numerous
for quotation. Three trumpeters and four heralds marched before
the coffin. Ten dollars were given to the poor, forty-eight
dollars to the trumpeters, and about eight hundred merks to the
heralds and painters. The mournings cost more than £1000, the
claret £200, the tobacco £7, and the beef £84 12s. The man who
dressed the coach got seven dollars, and "the Kirkekaldie man,"
who made the coffin, £40. Lamont records a curious and fatal
accident that happened here two and a-half years before the young
Laird’s death. As it would be unfair to abbreviate his quaint
account, it is given entire:- "1662, July 5, being Saturns
day.—The said day, betuixt 7 and 8 in the morning, at Lundy, in
Fyfe, John Rattray, one of the plowmen ther, being in the garden
yearde, sneding tries on the north dyke, over against the coall
stabell, for the gyle-house , Alexander Cuninghame, elder, in
Lundy Mille, came into the yearde, and stoode a litell under the
place wher he was sneding, the said Johne crying if ther were any
body ther to bewarre and remove, for the branche was falling
downe; the said Alexander, not regairding, was immediately smitten
with it to the grounde, and dyed presently of the stroake, his pan
being broken, and his necke almost, so that he was never hard
speake a worde after. After which, he was taken up, and placed on
a deal at the garden yeate, till James Murray, wright, meade a
coffin to him, and that same day, in the afternoone, he was
interred at Largo Church, in the east end of the said church
yearde."
Lundin Links lie to the south-west of
the village, and are the favourite resort of the golfers, who
spend their holidays in Lower Largo, the Kirkton, and Lundin Mill.
Lamont relates that while a party of Cromwell’s soldiers were
passing through the Links on a summer evening in 1654, two of
Kenmuir’s men charged the two foremost, and, having shot one of
their horses, retired. They were quickly followed, but escaped.
The English, in revenge, returned to Newburn, where they surprised
some of the rest of Kenmuir’s men, of whom they wounded four or
five, and took as many prisoners. A man and a woman were shot with
one bullet, and other two women were struck. From Newburn they
went to Easter Lathallan, where they took Lathallan Spence’s son
prisoner. Late the same night, they reached Lundin again, and
having set young Spence free next morning, and leaving one
badly-wounded prisoner behind them, they marched off with their
seven or eight captives to Burntisland. The prisoner they left
behind died next day, and one of the wounded women had to get a
leg cut off. Robert, the fourth Viscount of Kenmuir, suffered much
in the cause of Charles the Second, and was excepted by Cromwell
from his act of grace and pardon in 1654.
Largo Law is a very prominent hill to the
north of the Kirkton, and is seen from a great distance. In
troublous times it was used as a beacon-hill to warn the people of
approaching dangers. As it is 965 feet high, it well repays
enthusiastic climbers, by the magnificent view which is to be had
from the summit.
Kiel’s Den, which is nearly two miles in
length, is immediately to the north of Lundin Mill. It is
beautifully wooded, and some of the vista views are very fine. Few
places are better suited for a quiet stroll, and its pleasant
glades arc the beloved haunts of many a picnic party.
Pitcruvie Castle is picturesquely situated
on the verge of the upper portion of Kiel’s Den. It is sometimes
called Balcruvie. The most direct way to reach it, and the easiest
way to find it., is to take the road which leads from Largo to
Ceres. It. is so conspicuous, with the romantic den on the one
side and a prosaic farm-steading on the other, that it cannot be
missed. The walls are wonderfully entire, but the stones are very
weather-worn. It has been a great massive keep, much the same as
Scotstarvit Tower, near Ceres. Two of the flats have had vaulted
floors, and the remains of the circular tower, which contained.
the stair-case, can still be seen at one of the corners. This
tower seems originally to have been corbelled out, and to have
been afterwards supported from the ground. Near another corner the
foundation of the stair can be seen which led to the first flat.
The two vaulted chambers, on the ground floor, must have been used
as dungeons, or store - houses, as the only entrance was by a
trap-door from the room over-head. It is said that the castle
belonged in ancient times to the Ramsays, and that a daughter of
that family married David, second Lord Lindsay of the Byres, who
was distinguished for his bravery in foreign wars, and for his
devotion to James the Third. According to Pitscottie, Lindsay gave
that monarch his "great gray courser," which, "if he had ado in
his extremity, either to flee or follow," was able to "war all.
the horse of Scotland, at his pleasure, if he would sit well." The
King, however, was not able to "sit well;" and so, in his flight
from Sauchie Burn, he fell off the great gray courser at the fatal
Beaton’s Mill. Pitscottie also tells how Lindsay and the others,
who had assisted James the Third, were summoned to appear at
Edinburgh, and records the bold but informal speech of Lord David,
who was "a rash man, of small ingyne and rude language, although
he was stout and hardy in the fields." The Chancellor craftily
advised him to submit to the will of the King; but David’s.
brother, Patrick, who was versed in the law, tramped on his foot
as a hint that he should not. Unfortunately, he had a sore toe,
and "the pain thereof was very dolorous," and so he angrily
exclaimed:- "Thou art over peart, lown, to stramp on my foot, were
thou out of the King’s presence, I should take thee on the mouth!"
Patrick, seeing that the case was desperate, fell on his knees and
craved leave to plead for his brother. When his desire was
granted, he managed, by pointing out first one informality and
then another, to remove the King from the bench, and to induce the
Lords to "cast the summons." Lord David was so delighted now with
his brother, that his gratitude thus burst forth:- "Verily,
brother, you have fine pyet words, I would not have trowed that
you had such words. By St Mary, you shall have the Mains of
Kirforther for it!" The Mains of Kirkforthar was a poor
recompense; for the King was so displeased at Patrick, that he
declared, "He should gar him sit where he should not see his feet
for a year;" and he kept his word. Lord David died in 1492, and
was succeeded by his brother John, who died without male issue in
1497. .At the latter date, Patrick, of the "fine pyet words,"
became fourth Lord Lindsay of the Byres. He accompanied James the
Fourth to Flodden, and advised that the King should not hazard
himself in the battle, at which James was so furious that he
vowed, he would "cause hang him on his own gate," when he returned
to Scotland. As one of Lord Patrick’s sons, who died before him,
was styled Sir John Lindsay of Pitcruvie, it has been inferred
that the estate had passed into the hands of the Lindsays by the
marriage of Lord David. In his History
of Fife, Leighton
expresses the opinion, that it was Sir John, who acquired the
lands of Pitcruvie by marriage, and built the castle. Leighton
also states that Pitcruvie was sold to "James Watson, Provost of
St Andrews, whose grandson, James Watson, was served heir to him
in the lands of Pitcruvie, Auchindownie, and Brissemyre, on the
8th of March 1664."
Norrie’s Law is exactly three miles
north from Largo Pier. Robert Chambers, in his Popular Rhymes
of Scotland, gives the following curious traditional account
of its origin:—"It is supposed by the people who live in the
neighbourhood of Largo Law in Fife, that there is a very rich mine
of gold under and near the mountain, which has never yet been
properly searched for. So convinced are they of the verity of
this, that whenever they see the wool of a sheep’s side tinged
with yellow, they think it has acquired that colour from having
lain above the gold of the mine. A great many years ago, a ghost
made its appearance upon the spot, supposed to be laden with the
secret of the mine; but as it of course required to be spoken to
before it would condescend to speak, the question was, who should
take it upon himself to go up and accost it. At length a shepherd,
inspired by the all-powerful love of gold, took courage, and
demanded the cause of its thus ‘revisiting,’ &c. The ghost proved
very affable, and requested a meeting on a particular night, at
eight o’clock, when, said the spirit:
"'If Auchindownie cock disna craw,
And Balmain horn disna blaw,
I’ll tell ye where the gowd mine is in Largo Law.’
"The shepherd took what he conceived to be
effectual measures for preventing any obstacles being thrown in
the way of his becoming custodier of the important secret, for not
a cock, old, young, or middle-aged, was left alive at the
farm of Auchindownie; while the man, who, at that of Balmain, was
in the habit of blowing the horn for the housing of the cows, was
strictly enjoined to dispense with that duty on the night in
question. The hour was come, and the ghost, true to its promise,
appeared, ready to divulge the secret; when Tammie Norrie, the
cow-herd of Balmain, either through obstinacy or forgetfulness,
‘blew a blast both loud and dread,’ and I may add, ‘were ne’er
prophetic sounds so full of woe,’ for, to the shepherd’s mortal
disappointment, the ghost vanished, after exclaiming:
"‘Woe to the man that blew the horn
For out of the spot he shall ne’er be borne.’
"In fulfilment of this denunciation, the
unfortunate horn-blower was struck dead upon the spot; and it
being found impossible to remove his body, which seemed, as it
were, pinned to the earth, a cairn of stones was raised over it,
which, now grown into a green hillock, is still denominated
Norrie’s Law, and regarded as uncanny by the common people." This
tradition was taken down by Chambers in 1825. There is another
local tradition, according to which, Norrie’s Law covered "the
chief of a great army, buried there with his steed, and armed in
panoply of massive silver;" but it has been suspected that it
originated after the wonderful discovery of nearly seventy years
ago. Spence Oliphant must either have been ignorant of these
traditions, in 1791, or thought they were not worth recording,
for, after describing Largo Law, he merely says:- "Besides this,
there are 2 other Laws. But it is evident that these have been
artificial. When the cairn was removed from one of these, a few
years ago, a stone coffin was found at the bottom. From the
position of the bones, it appeared that the person had been buried
in a singular manner. The legs and arms had been carefully severed
from the trunk, and laid diagonally across it." No archaeologist
can refer to Norrie’s Law, without experiencing a mingled feeling
of anger and bitter chagrin; for, in or about 1819, there was
found here, only to be destroyed, "the most remarkable discovery
of ancient personal ornaments and other relics of a remote period
ever made in Scotland." Daniel Wilson, in his Pre-Historic
Scotland, devotes a chapter to the Norrie’s Law relics, and
vigorously denounces—yea, almost curses—the pedlar who purloined
the valuable ornaments and sold them for old silver. It has been
computed that nearly 400 ounces of pure bullion were found in
Norrie’s Law. Unfortunately, almost the whole of it was melted
down; although, from an antiquarian point of view, it was of
priceless value. The jeweller in Cupar, who paid £25 to the pedlar
for some of it, had a vivid recollection, even after a lapse of
twenty years, of "the rich carving of the shield, the helmet, and
the sword-handle, which were brought to him, crushed in pieces, to
permit convenient transport and concealment." Having heard of the
discovery, General Durham caused a search to be made at the base
of the Law, in 1822, and a number of interesting silver relics,
weighing in all about 24 ounces, were found. Several of these were
presented to the Antiquarian Museum in Edinburgh in 1864, and the
remainder in 1884. A description of them, by Dr Joseph Anderson,
will be found in the eighteenth volume of the Proceedings of
the Society of Antiquaries. They embrace two penannular
brooches of hammered silver, two leaf-shaped plates of solid
silver, three pins, a band of silver, a spiral finger-ring, a disc
of thin plate, a portion of plate, two portions of an arm-band, a
thin riband, a fragment of a chain of fine silver wire, a large
quantity of fragments, clippings and broken pieces of thin plates
of silver, and a brass coin. These specimens have led to the
abandonment of the idea of silver armour. The ornamentation is
distinctly Celtic. And each of the leaf-shaped plates bears the
symbol of the double-disc and broken rod, which occurs so
frequently on the sculptured stones. There is only one other
instance known of this symbol appearing on metal work, to wit, on
the terminal link of a silver chain found in Lanarkshire. The
tumulus of Norrie’s Law was surrounded by a ditch, or fosse, on
the outer side of which there was a wall. "On the inner side of
the ditch the base of the Law was defined by a circle of large
boulders. Portions of an inner concentric wall were also observed.
Between these walls a quantity of travelled earth was found, and
within the inner circle the eminence was mostly formed of a cairn
of stones. Here, towards the centre, vestiges of charred wood
appeared, and many of the stones of the cairn showed that they had
been under the action of fire. A small triatigular cist, found in
the foundation of the outer base of the Law between two of the
stones, and covered with a flat stone, contained incinerated human
bones. On the west and on the outside of the base in which the
triangular cist or hole was discovered, a small urn of baked clay
was found lying on its side among charred wood. Nothing was found
in the urn. The tumulus rests on a hillock of sand on the summit
of a ridge commanding an extensive view." It had doubtless been "a
pagan grave-mound of Bronze Age type." The silver relics were
found, not in the grave-mound, but in the sand at its base, and
are believed to belong to the seventh century. Largo has been rich
in valuable antiquities, for in the winter of 1848, four golden
torcs were found at Temple. They are made of thin fillets twisted
like a screw, and have hook-like terminations, which interlock and
fasten them round the wrist of the wearer. Three of them are
perfect, and all are now in the Edinburgh Antiquarian Museum. An
old woman, who had lived all her life where they were found,
stated that in her young days several cists were discovered there,
and that a man was supposed to have found a treasure, for he
suddenly became wealthy enough to build a house.
Backmuir of Gilston is a long,
dilapidated village in the northern part of the parish. In 1837,
the population, including that of the neighbouring hamlet of
Wood-side, was 316, but it is probably much less now.
The Population of the whole parish in
1755 was 1396; in 1791, it had risen to 1913; in 1861, it had
still further increased to 2626; but in 1881, it was down to 2224.
The Valuation in 1855-6 was £14,438 12s,
and rose to £15,829 11s 10d in 1874-5; but has fallen to £14,258
6s 4d in 1885-6.
Click here to see some
pictures of Largo