Hector Boece, in his Chronicles of Scotland,
written in Latin, early in the sixteenth century, and translated
shortly afterwards into the vernacular tongue by John Bollenden,
describes Dundee as "ye toun quhair we wer born, quhair mony
virtews and lauborius pepill ar in makying of claith." This
occupation had before his time become a local industry of
considerable importance. The material principally used was wool,
although flax, grown in the country, and also imported from the
"Easter Seas," was already employed in making those linens for
which the town has since become famous. The home-grown lint was
reckoned the more valuable; but it appears to have been scarce,
and its use was restricted to serving for the wants and work of
the household, when the daughters—the spinsters—applied their
nimble fingers to the rock and spindle, the wheel not yet having
come into use,
"And the goodwife's shuttle merrily
Went flashing through the loom;"
for we find that in 1582, the Council "ordanit
that na persons presume to buy in the market ony hemmat lint mair
nor will satisfie their awn use and labouring, under the pain of
confiscation thereof." Wool, the great staple for cloth-making,
was, however, plentiful, and was then produced in the neighbouring
glens, of fine quality. Bocce says, "In the vale of Esk is sa
quhit and small wool, that it lies na compair in Albion." There
was no restriction to prevent the burgesses from buying it in
quantity, but they had to be wary of the persons from landward
that brought it into the burgh for sale, as they were given to
sharp practices, and their dealings needed to he well looked
after. It was found " that the common weill of the burgh is
heavily hurt, and the inhabitants themselves gretlie defraudit,
throw buying of wool Ira the awners thereof in mirkl houses or
quiet lofts; for remeid of the quhilk, it was ordanit that na
neighbour buy ony manner of wool upon ony day in the oulk except
Wednesday and Saturday, and then publicly and openly in the Mercat
Gait, under the pain of twenty shillings; and that na unfreernen
awners of the wool, that uses to have the same in lofts and mirk
houses, pretend to open their doors quhairin the wool remains but
upon the twa mercat days, and then to the effect that it may be
brocht furth openly to the mnercat place and gait to be sauld to
the neighbours; and gif there remains ony unsauld, that they
transport it again to their lofts until the next mercat day, and
then sell it, and na otherways pre\a1ie, under the pain of
confiscation of the wool." The system of making surreptitious
market in dark places, was, however, persisted in, and "the act
against buying and selling of wool in lofts, buiths, and houses,
in defraud of the buyers," was repeatedly ordered to be publishit
and put to execution in all points."
At a later time a special place was appointed
for the wool market."It was concludit that it be keepit be-east
the tolbuith stair upon the heieht of the calsay," ("the crown of
the calsay," was used as a proverbial expression for a conspicuous
place,) "and that na persons hald mercat under stairs." Orders
were also given "that nane of the weigh-house wechts be lent to
ony person furth of the said house,specially to wool sellers, quha
are understood to be unprofitable persons, within this common
weill; and that the wool in all time coming be only weighit at the
weigh-house," where the standar(l weights were kept.
Notwithstanding these injunctions, "the
neighbours and inhabitants yet sustenit grite skayth throw certain
unfreemen keeping open buiths and lofts at all occasions, and
selling wool in mirk houses with unknown wochts, to the grite
defraud of the luir and simple [which is] forder liberty nor is
grantit to free burgesses, although it is specially providit by
diverse constitutions of the burgh that nane of the said persons
sall be permittit to sell but in open mercat. And because it is
likeways understood that this defraud cannot be weill remeidit
without " the dealers be removed from "the buiths and lofts
possessit be them within the bounds of St. Clement's Kirk—quhilk
is tryit to be maist improper for that traffic—therefor it is
ordiuiit that na persons presume efter this hour to set their
lofts, buiths, and houses" to the wool-sellers, "under the pain of
ten pounds; and that sic as presently possess the same, be
rernovit therefra be the proprietors at the feast of Whitsunday
next to come, under the said pain."
St. Clement's Church, although dismantled at
the Reformation, remained for some time undestroyed, and it
appears to have been used for various purposes—amongst others, as
a temporary Grammar School. In the burgh rental roll of 1581, it
is described as C George Lowell's," or Lovell's heirs land, some
time callit Sanct Clement's Kirk." The erection of the tolbooth in
1562, upon the open ground between it and the Mercat Gait, had
closed it in and darkened the front; and after the new school was
built in 1589, it had probably been divided into lofts, and partly
appropriated for the storage of wool. When time townhouse was
extended backward, about ten years ago, portions of the old
foundations were discovered, and these indicated that the Church
had not been of any considerable size.
Some of the dealers afterwards returned to do
business at the proscribed place. "Robert Nicolson and John
Johneson were convict in the selling of their wool within lofts
and mirk buiths, and were unlawed in five pounds each;" others,
although they sold their goods in the proper way, did not accept
of the just weight with a good grace. "Alexander Hering was
convict in rnispersomng of Violet Rind, gude-wyiff of the
weigh-house, saying, that she usit her office unjustly, and
weighit his wool with her elbocks, and therefor the Council
ordained him to pay forty shillings to the common warks, and make
amends to the "slandered gudewyifl," and inhibited him to ofiend
ony person in time coming under the pain of twenty pounds; because
he had diverse times of before been convict in troublance." He did
not, however, amend his behaviour, for not long after he
mispersonit two sergeants in the execution of their office, be
calling them false buns and knaves," for which lie had to pay five
pounds; and at a later time he struck "Alexander Law, cordiner,
with ane durk in the arm to the effusion of his blood, and being
convict was ordaned to Pay twenty pounds unlaw for the blood, and
satisfic the pairty at the sicht of the Council."
In 1604, at a meeting of the Convention of
Burghs, a complaint was made at the instance of Haddington, that
the Council of 1)undee exacted "ane fleece of wool of ilk pack, by
thirteen shillings four pennies custom, and one pennie for
weighing," on all that was imported into the burgh; and their
commissioner was ordered to come to another meeting prepared to
answer the complaint. But they sent no answer, and were "decerned
to cease fra uplifting the fleece, at least until they produce
their richt, gif they ony have."
The making of woollen cloth had been an
important industry in old Dundee. Many of the women would have
occupation in spinning the yarn, and the brabiners or weavers that
wove the cloth were already numerous, and constituted one of the
principal crafts of the burgh. They possessed charters and records
of early dates, as also considerable property, and had erected and
continued to uphold an altar in St. Mary's Church, to the honour
of St. Severus, their patron saint.
At an early time complaints had been made
that frauds were used in the rnanfaeture of cloth; and for remedy,
Parliament, in 1540, passed an Act ordaining the appointment of
persons for examining webs, and scaling or stamping them if found
to be sufficient in quality and dye; and the Dundee Town Council
afterwards chose "John Mand, Dean of Guild, sealmaster of all
stikks of claith, conform to the King's Acts made thereupon." It
was found that some of the weavers were rogues, who not only
manufactured evil cloth, but stole the materials from which they
made it, and " it was ordanit that na manner of kensy wobs be made
within the burgh be ony of the inhabitants thereof, under the pain
of tynsal of freedom, and gif they be unfreemen that brak the act,
the elaith to be confiskit and escheitit to the common affairs of
the burgh; and that because the Council find the common weill
gretlie hurt throw making of the said wobs be idle and insolent
persons, having neither wool nor lit of their awn, but privalie
obtene and get them fraudfully of their neighbours." These
ingenious bra- biners had already discovered how to make shoddy
and other sorts of scandalous cloth, against which there was much
indignation. "Sitting in judgement, and ripe avysment had for
eschewing of the manifest ungodly fraud iisit in this town be
drawers and false colourers of claith, the matter being in
presence of the Council, complainit upon and heavily lamented ;
and [to the effect] that order be put tliereiutil in time coming,
conform to the Act of Parliament made be uinquhile our soverane
Lord King James the Fyft—quhom God assolize; efter lang reasoning
and mature deliberation baith of merchants and crafts had
thereintil, for the common weill and honour of the burgh, at last
with ane voice, but discrepance, it was concludit, statute, and
pronouncit, that na neighbour nor inhabitant presume efter this
day to use or lit ony kind of false colours, or to draw claith,"
or put "ding, calk, creiche, eaird, or flaill in claith, under the
pain of escheating of the claith, the ane half to our soverane
Lady's escheat, and time other half to the common guid; and to the
effect that diligent trial and apprehension may be easily had of
deceitful transgressors, it was ordanit that there be ane
qualifeit man chosen to seal all claitli, who sail have for his
labour for ilk piece sealing four pennies; and gif he beis fundin
culpably sealing insufficient colour, or drawn climith, to tyne
his freedom, and be punishit in his person and guids; and the
drawers for the first fault to tyne their freedom for year and
day, and for the second, for ever."
Then the Council "having consideration of
time importable charge of the office of the sealer, and the grite
difficulty in trying out of all manner of false colours and
drawing of claith, devisit his diligence to be supplyit in this
manner: that is to say, that all websters in time to come saIl
weave in their marks in all webs they weave, to testify that they
have leal1ie and truly done their handywark: secondly, that
theirefter the awners of the claith sail cause sew in their marks
in the webs or they pass to the walk iiiylnc, to declare thereto
that they are true colourit, and that they give na command to the
walker to draw them thirdly, that all walkers have efter this day
ane seal containing either their name or their mark, quhmairwith
they sall seal with lead all claith drest and handlit be them, in
signification that they avow the claith undrawn," and neither "
creashit, fialit, nor cardit, and they to have for their labours
twa pennies; and the walker that delivers ciaith labourit be him,
unseaiit, to be hal(lin culpable and a transgressor to be pumsiut."
It was further or(Tanit that the seal sail noeht be put to ony
claiths littit either black or green furth of white claith," as
these colours required to be dyed either in the wool or yarn.
"Thomas Gardyne, litster, was chosen to the office of sealer of
sufficient claiths; and to the eftbct that claiths and wool littit
already whilk are nocht conform to the act may be dispechit, the
Council continuit the execution thereof till the Ruid (lay next to
come, with certification till all neighbours, that gif ony
insufficient claitli be apprehendit efter that day, the act will
be execute."
Further injunctions were afterwards given to
the fullers and dyers. The masters of the walker craft shall
neither deliver nor set their marks to na ciaiths that shall
happen to be dichtit be them, without they advertise the keeper of
the common seal that lie may set the sainin to the ciaith; "and it
was statute " that na birsall nor ursall (which had been
considered injurious dyes), "be put on na manner of wool nor
claith heirefter." "fien the owners of the cloth had their
responsibilities defined; it having been "ordainit that gif ony
neighbour have given claith to ony master of the walker craft to
be diehtit, that lie come ouiklie upon Friday efternoon to the
walker's bucht quhair his claith lies, quhair he sail find the
master sealer present, and receive the town's seal to his
sufficient colourit and undrawn claithwhites and tartans only
sechidit; and "if the awner of the claith" do not come, "the
sealer sall seal all sufficient claith quhilk he apprehends in the
bucht," and the walker sall pay his fees. "And" if ony neighbour,
being requirit be the walker and dichter to tak awa his chaith
within eight days efter the sealing thereof, and pay him the
sealer's duty, and the price of his awn labour, refuses, then the
walker sail be haldin to answer na fkrtlier, and quhat
inconvenient stealing, skayth, or dainpnage saIl happen to come
upon the claith in the walker's buelit, sail come and fall only
upon time awner thereof."