It is certainly possible to grow plants without soil as
long as the water in which their roots live is supplied with the right
amounts of the many mineral salts they need. But for all ordinary purposes
the soil is the medium in which our crops must grow. If that soil is not in
good heart itself, an addition of manures in the form of mineral salts will
not result in a good crop.
The soil is not just a collection of particles of sand
and silt and clay but a living world in which the processes of change are
going on all the time. The livelier we can maintain these processes by
cultivation, the more plant food will be made available, and conditions are
set fair for higher yields. For example, there is no better general
fertilizer than farmyard manure, yet very little of it can be used directly
by the plant, whether potato or a grass seeds mixture. Decomposition of the
dung to simpler substances must take place and the quicker this occurs the
sooner will the crop go ahead. This breaking down of manure and of part of
the soil to form plant food is largely brought about by germs which live
naturally in the ground.
The soil needs air to allow it to crumble to a good tilth
and the germs need air to help them convert the manure. We get that air into
the soil by ploughing and cultivating, but better still by digging. The deep
thoroughness of the spade is one reason for the greater fertility of a
garden compared with a field. There is no doubt that where the use of the
cas-chrom still continues
better crops are grown than by horse ploughing. In the
old days in the Highlands the crofter was doing in effect what I was
suggesting on p. 2 as being sound policy, namely, treating his arable ground
intensively. He did a bit of ground well and got a crop. Not only did he get
a higher yield in one year, but he was building up his ground, making
capital for the future.
The soil cannot get its air if it is waterlogged, so
draining is one of the first necessities. If the arable ground is in a glen,
some open drains may be necessary to carry off the water which rapidly seeps
down from the hill after heavy rain. Water lying in the soil means a
stoppage of those processes of change, a coldness and lateness for plant
growth, and conditions are such as to encourage the formation of an acid,
rubbery, peat-like soil which is most difficult to work even when dry. When
I was on North Rona I observed the soil of the lazy-beds which have not been
worked for over 200 years. Its good quality is still apparent, compared with
that part which was never tilled. The ground was well drained and the soil
deep and there was not a rush or a docken in it. In summer time those
lazy-beds are covered with wild white clover, testifying to the goodness and
health of soil well tilled by a folk long since gone. These fertile
lazy-beds or feannagan are their lasting monument.
2. The Soil as a Sponge
LAZY-BEDS IN THE MAKING, SOUTH UIST
This is one of the few places where new lazy-beds are
still being made. Feannagan take up a lot of ground, but they are
a good form of husbandry on peaty ground where drainage is difficult.
Draining tiles are no good in peat, for peat is like a jelly and dries
best with open drains at close intervals.
Those East-Coasters who sometimes express the view—on
insufficient observation and through lack of understanding—that
West-Coasters are lazy, might take a good look at this picture. It
needed a lot of hard labour to get the seaware so neatly laid out on the
ground, and it needs a big heart to tackle the digging by hand of this
area in the short time before the potatoes must be in.
The West Highland climate is reckoned a wet one, and as
much of the ground is peaty, a waterlogged condition is commonly found which
exercises us principally towards getting it well drained. Quite apart from
the actual drains we may dig, cultivation and liming are also aids to good
drainage. But there is the other side of the picture as well—how far can our
arable ground withstand the spring droughts ? Peat is a wonderful
water-holding substance, useless for growing corn and root crops, but found
so often alongside our strips of arable land which tend to dry out between
March and June. The peat consists of decayed vegetable matter of a sour,
acid kind, which for all practical purposes is like a jelly. Much of our
Highland arable land, on the other hand, has lost some of its decayed
vegetable matter and has become little more than a mixture of particles of
rock. Such a soil lets water pass through it quickly, though some
deep-rooting plants may get below this sandy layer. If the soil is shallow,
overlying rock, no plant but a quick-growing annual weed gets a chance to
survive.
These thin, light soils of the West have little buffering
power such as we should find in the clay soils of a large part of England.
They have the advantage, however, of being easy to work; they are often
early and can be worked almost immediately after heavy rain. But they cannot
grow a good crop unless their buffering power of holding water and of
holding manures is built up and maintained.
We can attain this end by liberal use of farmyard manure,
which in addition to supplying manurial elements gives body to a soil.
Rotted farmyard manure in the soil forms a substance called humus, which may
be looked upon as being the sponge of the soil. It is difficult to get
enough of this non-acid humus into the soil, but there are ways and means if
we use our ingenuity. There is no doubt that we need to keep more cattle if
only for their value as agricultural implements and manure makers. When
housing cattle in winter it is worth while getting as much waste vegetable
matter into the manure heap as possible. For example, I recently saw a great
heap of rushes tipped on to the rocks at the seaward edge of a croft; this
was a waste. Rushes are well worth while stacking for bedding with a view to
enlarging the manure pile. They do not rot in the heap as easily as straw,
though the process can be hastened by mixing occasional layers of seaweed
with the manure. Still another means of providing humus is the. short ley,
but if the ley is to play its full part it needs careful management and the
help of cattle in grazing and dunging it. It is a subject we shall discuss
later.
3. A Balanced Soil
The strength of a chain is that of its weakest link, we
firmly believe, but to apply this philosophy to the fertility of the soil
where it is of immense importance, we must find a different comparison. A
barrel has a number of staves of equal height and will hold water to the
height of the staves. Let us liken our soil to the barrel and the crop to
the quantity of liquid the barrel will hold. The staves of the barrel
represent the several conditions which are necessary for plant growth—
sufficient water supply, sufficient air, suitable temperature, enough plant
food in the form of nutrient salts, plenty of room for the roots and absence
of injurious substances. Our barrel has these six main staves, but some of
them, such as the sufficiency of nutrient salts, are themselves made up of
several strips of the fabric of the barrel.
A well-balanced soil is like the complete barrel; it will
hold water to the limit of its capacity because every stave is sound. Such
cultivation as we give that soil would be the equivalent of holding the
barrel upright so that it would hold to capacity. Now supposing our barrel
gets a dunt which breaks off one stave a foot from the top. Its capacity is
reduced for it will not hold water above the height of the broken stave. We
get no comfort from assuring ourselves that the other staves are perfectly
good. And if, again, someone bores a hole in another stave near the bottom
of the barrel, the accident to the first stave will lose all significance
until the hole is bunged up, because the barrel will not hold water above
that point. If one strip of the stave called nutrient salts is missing or
short, we are still going to lose the possibility of a full barrel.
Similarly with our soil; it is no good our saying it is
well manured and all the rest of it if the soil is short of air as a result
of bad drainage. The plant roots breathe a lot of air and the amount they
get is closely linked with the quantity of plant nutrients they can then
absorb. Sufficiency of air in the soil is the result of good drainage and
cultivation.
It is no good draining and cultivating, either, if we
then starve the crop of manure. The whole skill of husbandry is in judging
the capacity of our barrel and keeping all the staves to their full height.
The barrel will hold no more if we add a bit more to one stave, or even five
staves. It would be just a waste of time and money.
When I see a man working hard on a piece of ground that
is obviously short of lime and phosphates, I feel sorry, because I know he
is wasting part of his labour, just as if he was trying to fill the barrel
with water by pouring in pailful after pailful, when one stave was broken.
We have to judge the condition of the soil as we would that of the barrel,
and if such judgment is a bit beyond our powers we can call in the soil
expert just as we would get a cooper to repair the barrel. This service is
provided by the Colleges of Agriculture.
4. Cultivation and the Unseen Life of the Soil
If a piece of land gets so dirty with twitch that it has
to be raked over and the twitch gathered, it may be noticed that if the
rubbish is burnt on one big fire which is kept going for a considerable
time, the ground underneath loses its blackness and becomes red. And in the
following year you will find that bit of ground barren where the fire was.
The reason for this is that the soil has been sterilized : all the minute,
single-celled animals are killed and, what is more important, all the
bacteria or single-celled plants are killed also, all the millions and
millions of them which are present in every handful of soil. Without these
bacteria the soil] is worthless for growing plants of agricultural value.
What then do the bacteria do, and how can we help them, so that, in their
turn, they can help us?
When we burnt that twitch we noticed the soil beneath had
turned from black to red. The blackness of the soil indicates that it is
rich in rotted animal and vegetable matter, shortly and collectively called
humus. Humus, as I have explained already, enables the soil to act as a
sponge, keeping it open enough to drain, and yet allowing it to hold water
in dry times. The burning of the twitch burnt the humus in the soil beneath
as well, the humus which was the home of all those little Robin Goodfellows,
the soil bacteria.
CUTTING SEAWEED
Seaware is in the news and appears likely to become
the raw material of a considerable industry. The crofter may usefully
supplement his cash income by gathering the stalks of tangle for this
new industry. Happily, it is well recognized that the natural harvest of
weed on the beaches is also one of the raw materials of crofting
agriculture and a most necessary one, for it provides organic matter to
be transformed into humus in the soil.
Our old friends on the shores of Loch Seaforth have
no tangle to cut as have their relations on the western side of the
Isles or in more seaward places. They are gathering wrack and the
condition of the beach indicates that cutting has been regular, for
there is no great wealth of weed. We can imagine an outsider viewing
this scene and exclaiming "Uneconomic!" It may be, but for myself it was
a job I enjoyed in my island years: the smell of the weed was good and
there were interesting things to see among the weed. If we can live and
enjoy, then life is good.
The most important groups of soil bacteria concerned in
breaking down waste animal and vegetable matter so that it can be turned
into plant food, need air just as we do in order to live and work. We aerate
the soil by draining it and by our annual cultivations which expose it, turn
it over and leave it light. The drainage allows the soil to become warmer;
the bacteria work better in warmer soil and produce more humus, which makes
the soil black; and a black soil absorbs more heat from the sun so that the
bacteria can work harder at breaking down the animal and vegetable waste or
organic matter, and the warmer black soil grows crops better and ripens them
quicker. The man of sense does not forget his unseen helpers in the soil; he
keeps his drains open and gives his ground more than a scratch over once a
year.
There is one other necessary condition for the bacteria
to work well—that the soil should not be too acid. The addition of lime
neutralizes the acidity and provides a chemical base, calcium, with which
the nitrogenous part of the products of the bacteria can combine to form a
plant food such as calcium nitrate.
This is one of the great everlasting processes going on
in the soil and is called by the agricultural scientist nitrification. We
dig farmyard manure, fish guts, seaweed and plant roots into the soil ; the
bacteria attack them all and break them down into humus. Then the humus is
still further broken down till the nitrogenous portion becomes ammonia ;
whereupon it is seized by yet another group of bacteria which turn the
ammonia into nitrous acid. This stage is an extremely short one, for the
nitrous acid combines with the calcium base to form a nitrite, after which a
final group of bacterial workmen turn it into calcium nitrate, which
substance is available to the plant. The whole thing is like the reverse of
an assembly line in a factory. The organic matter comes in raw and a
succession of specialist bacteria split it and deal with the subsequent
products, until it is rendered available again as pure plant food.
5. The Value of Lime
When I think of the fact that man was liming his ground
in prehistoric times, I am struck anew by his inborn capacity to observe,
and to act rightly on the evidence of his eyes. Lime is an essential plant
food and together with phosphorus is the main constituent of bone, but it is
not one of those manures which give a spectacular increase of plant growth
shortly after application. On heavy land, the most important part lime may
play is in making the soil more workable and easier drained. It also has the
effect of helping to clean ground of parasites if it is applied in the newly
burnt state.
The shortage of lime and phosphates in the soil makes it
necessary to send our hoggs down country for wintering. It is an expensive
business and wasteful of condition to take flesh and blood all those miles
when the greater benefit would follow from bringing lime to the crofts. Our
West Highland agriculture is limited in its possibilities by this shortage
of lime and phosphates. We cannot manure our ground heavily to take off big
crops unless the lime level is right. It is no exaggeration to say that a
period of economic prosperity could follow a good liming of all our arable
ground. That would be a large undertaking which we are unlikely to see
fulfilled in wartime, but many of us are in a position to do more in the way
of liming than we do at present.
There seems to be a good deal of misunderstanding as to
the value of various forms of lime. Let us try to understand what lime is :
the essential constituent is the metal element calcium, but this substance
does not occur alone. It is chemically combined with carbon (charcoal and
lamp black are examples of carbon) and oxygen (the gas which forms one-fifth
of the air we breathe). Limestone, chalk, coral and shell sand are all forms
of calcium carbonate. Now if these substances are subjected to great heat,
the carbon and some of the oxygen are driven off in the form of carbon
dioxide, the gas which forms one twenty-fifth of the air and which makes the
fizz in soda-water. The calcium and some oxygen are left. If we call calcium
Ca, carbon C and oxygen O, the result of burning limestone may be
represented thus:—
We all know that quicklime is unsteady stuff; the steamer
will not carry it except in barrels, and if it is left in a sack in a damp
place it soon bursts the sack. Calcium oxide cannot stand alone under
ordinary atmospheric conditions, but must take up water to form a more
steady substance which is slaked lime or calcium hydroxide. Water is a
chemical mixture of the two gases hydrogen and oxygen, so the slaking of
quicklime means:—
Even slaked lime is not a fully steady substance; for it
takes up carbon dioxide from the air and comes back again to what we started
with—calcium carbonate:—
Quicklime kills both plant and animal life: the plant can
absorb only calcium carbonate as food. If that is so, you might say, why on
earth do we go to all the trouble of burning lime if it has to come back
again to its original chemical state before it can be used? It may be the
same chemically, but in texture it is quite different ; the limestone was
hard rock and this new substance is a finer powder than flour. Just as moist
sugar dissolves quicker in tea than lump, so does this finely powdered lime
dissolve quicker in the acid water of the soil.
6. Forms of Lime
Lime is the name given to three chemical compounds of the
metal calcium—quicklime, slaked lime and carbonate of lime. The last named
is the form in which lime is assimilated by plants, but it must be in very
small particles to be easily dissolved by the soil water which is more or
less acid, depending on whether the soil is "sour" or "sweet."
If you find that a piece of limestone weighs 10 lb.
before it is put into the kiln, it will weigh less than 6 lb. when it is
thoroughly burnt. This same piece left to slake in the air will soon weigh
over 7 lb., and by the time it has become calcium carbonate again it will be
10 lb. of fine powder. The limestone could also be ground to a fine powder
and the result on the land would be the same, except that if you applied a
ton of quick lime to the acre and allowed it to slake and gather weight
naturally you would be saving yourself labour and transport, for you would
have to apply nearly two tons of ground limestone to get the same result.
It seems to be more economical to get finely powdered
calcium carbonate by crushing and grinding limestone than by burning it and
allowing it to slake down, for the use of ground limestone in farming has
steadily crown commoner. The arable land of our crofts would be put on a new
footing if we could completely neutralize the soil acidity and make it
sweet. But we find that the amounts needed for such neutralization are
usually far beyond practical possibilities. Who could afford, for example,
to apply ten tons of quicklime to the acre?
For all practical purposes we can say that a crop needs
half a ton of finely-powdered lime to the acre in the year. We should be
doing quite well if we put on that amount every year, but we usually lime
land at a heavier rate than that, say two tons to the acre, and let it serve
for several years.
We cannot expect to get sufficient manufactured lime
transported to the crofting areas at the present time, so it is in our own
interests to make what use we can of the natural deposits in the West
Highlands and Islands. Most of the old kilns are disused now, though if they
could be repaired easily, the fuel consumption would not be excessive. I
have been told that when the kilns in Strath Kanaird were in use, it was
reckoned that a family could cut peats enough in one day to burn enough
limestone to dress the croft for the year. Two other natural forms of lime
are shell-sand and coral-sand, which are calcium carbonate. Both are good
sweeteners of the soil, but as a particle of shell or coral is relatively
large compared with ground lime, a much heavier dressing is
necessary—preferably ten tons to the acre on land newly reclaimed. This is
hard work, but there is this consolation—that dressing will last twenty
years or more, until the soil acids have completely dissolved the particles.
A crew of three or four men with a big open boat could
soon gather coral-sand enough to dress the arable land of a township with
lime, and as many beaches can be reached by motor lorries the task is even
easier.
After an initial analysis by Government chemists the
shell or coral would be accepted as eligible for the lime subsidy of 50 per
cent. of the cost, including carriage to the croft. Before the war,
shell-sand from the Outer Isles was being put down on the east side of the
Minch at 11s. a ton. Many of us can do it cheaper than that, so with the
subsidy the cost in money for liming in the West need not be great.
Lime tends to sink in the soil, so there is little point
in ploughing it in. A light working with harrows or cultivator is all that
is necessary.
We cultivate ground in order to get it into such physical
condition that it can become a seed bed for domestic plants. Broadly, this
involves drainage and aeration, and the act of ploughing does both of these
operations in the surface layer each year. The result of disturbance of soil
by cultivation is what the farmer calls "tilth," the friable, crumbly
character of the soil which is highly favourable for the early growth of
plants from seed.
There are still many parts of the world where "ploughing"
means no more than a disturbance of the upper soil, such as we obtain with a
cultivator or scuffler, but for two thousand years in Europe, husbandmen
have turned the soil completely over through the action of that cunning
invention, the mouldboard. English ploughing has always been of high
quality, especially during the last 150 years, and it was in the heavy lands
of England that the long steel mouldboard was developed. The action of this
type of plough is to leave an unbroken furrow slice neatly on edge, and the
appearance of a piece of finished work is most pleasing. It is the normal
thing in autumn ploughing to leave the furrow slices well set up so that
they present a large surface to the weather and have beneath them an air
space triangular in section which acts as a drain. Such land breaks down
very easily in spring so that sowing can proceed quickly.
But we cannot follow English practice in the West
Highlands. Autumn ploughing would be detrimental to the ground, because it
would cause leaching of plant food from the soil by rain. We do far better
to leave the stubbles and leas untouched through autumn and early winter,
but I do think we should get on to them earlier in spring. Our arable land
is not getting enough working to get it in good condition or to keep it
clean.
The English plough with its long mouldboard is not the
best type to use up here, where the land is generally light and often stony.
We do far better with the digger plough which has a very short mouldboard of
chilled steel. It was originally developed in America in the nineteenth
century but is commonly used in Britain now for spring cultivation. This
mouldboard lifts the soil high and allows it to fall flat and broken. It is
possible to bury all the winter-growing weeds and so manage the job that the
newly ploughed land is well enough broken up to take the seed immediately.
Nevertheless, we should not be persuaded too easily that such ground is
really ready. It would be better to cultivate it several times and bring up
the weeds to the surface with their roots free of soil so that they are
killed. One ploughing and harrowing a year is not complete cultivation, even
on our light soils. The arrival of the travelling tractor outfit in the
Western crofting districts has tended to make such short preparation of the
ground into the general rule, especially when the month of May is in before
the tractor comes to break the ground.
Wherever there are horses and men we should get busy in
the dry weather of March and be prepared to plough the ground twice if
necessary, and cultivate oftener still. Lea ploughing, of course, cannot be
deeply worked or the turf is brought up again. Our aim should be to lay that
furrow slice as flat as possible, using a skim coulter to pare off the
grassy edge which might show up and grow.
8. The Sub-Soil
When I look at the title of this talk, I can imagine a
good many readers exclaiming, "Sub-soil, indeed, it's little enough top soil
we have here, and then we're on bed rock." Such conditions are not uncommon,
and the best thing we can do then is to build up the depth of what soil
there is with organic matter such as seaweed and dung, in order to increase
the water-holding capacity of the soil. But the greater part of the arable
land in the West has a bottom of peat, glacial silt or shell-sand. A
sub-soil of clay is uncommon here.
Many would-be improvers of our land who have been
accustomed to southern conditions have had a rude shock when they have
delved below the top few inches of West Highland soils. I have heard of
several gardens and some enclosures of arable land being ruined by bringing
an infertile sub-soil to the surface. The best advice is—don't do it. Our
ground is naturally poor and it has taken a long time to get the upper few
inches into workable state. What lies below may contain plant foods, but the
physical and bacterially dead state of the sub-soil renders it utterly
barren.
Why, then, am I wasting time talking about it? The point
is that it is well worth while trying to increase the workable depth of the
soil and gradually tapping
SPRING WORK AT UIG, LEWIS
The peat and the shell sand meet at Uig, one of the
beauty spots of the Hebrides. The effect of shell sand being blown on to
the land in constant small quantities is obvious in the greenness of the
ground at such places as Ardroil on the shores of Uig Bay. This crofter
has an outfit right for the job and the raw materials of fertility are
there behind him—shell sand and seaweed. I believe this bit of country
could produce as early a crop of potatoes as any place in Scotland. The
trouble just now would be freights, which would eat up all the profits.
But it should be remembered that reduction in freight charges needs
organization in the townships as well as action elsewhere.
the mineral plant foods which are lying down there
unused, or breaking up a little more of the peat so that it will act like
soil. Unless the sub-soil is shell-sand, we can take it for granted that it
is very sour, and we must apply lime if we are going to disturb that
sub-soil so that the soil acids may be neutralized and some of the mineral
salts liberated.
A sub-soiling plough has a frame much like an ordinary
plough, but instead of there being a coulter, share and mouldboard, there is
a big tine or prong which goes down the horse-walk after the normal furrow
has been turned and breaks up what lies below to a depth varying from 4 to 9
inches. The ordinary plough then follows and the sub-soil is not brought to
the top to bury the working soil. This breaking up of the sub-soil —assuming
the drainage to have been made good—will allow air to get down into it,
which in its turn will allow seepage of lime from above and the percolation
of organic matter and soil bacteria which are a necessity for the proper
making of soil. Thereafter, plant roots will make their way down and will
help both to drain and aerate the sub-soil as well as add to its nutritive
store.
I should not have bothered to say much about sub-soiling
in the West Highlands were it not that plough pans are very common. A "pan"
is a hard stratum in the soil just below the normal ploughing depth, and in
itself possibly not more than an inch deep. A plough pan results from
constantly ploughing at one depth and is caused by the laying down of iron
salts drained from the upper soil. The pan is usually impervious and does
much to lessen the efficiency of drainage, as well as preventing plant roots
getting down to what they might gather from the sub-soil. If you are working
on a garden scale, you can tackle the pan by trenching as deep as you can
and then going along the bottom of the trench with a pick to loosen the pan
and the sub-soil below, but for anything bigger you would be advised to rig
up a plough with a deep tine. Once the pan is broken, an attempt should be
made at deeper cultivation, and after an adequate liming, deep rooting crops
should be sown.
By careful sub-soiling we bring more soil into
cultivation and achieve something almost as good as increasing our acreage.