From its source downwards to Glasgow the Clyde flows
through Lanarkshire; afterwards, until about Greenock, its course is
between Dumbartonshire on the north and Renfrewshire on the south.
The fertile slopes of Ayrshire and the Highland hills of Argyleshire
continue the boundary to the now widening waters of the Firth.
Lanarkshire, or Clydesdale, is bounded on the north
and north-west by the counties of Stirling, Dumbarton, and Renfrew;
on the north-east by Edinburgh and Linlithgow; on the east by
Peebles; on the south by Dumfries; and on the south-west and west
by Ayrshire. It is situated between 55° 54' and 55° 25' of north
latitude, and 3° 25' and 4° 18' of west longitude. The length from
north-west to south-east is about 50 miles; and the greatest breadth
from north-east to south-west is 34 miles. It contains an area of
568,867 acres, or 888 square miles.
Lanarkshire is subdivided into three districts,
called the Upper, Middle, and Lower Wards. In the Upper Ward, of
which Lanark is the chief town, are the parishes of Carluke, Lanark,
Carstairs, Carnwath, Dunsyre, Dolphinton, Walston, Biggar, Liberton,
Lamington and Wandell, Coulter, Crawford, Crawfordjohn, Douglas,
Wiston and Roberton, Symington, Covington, Pettinain, Carmichael,
and Lesmahagow. The Middle Ward, of which the town of Hamilton is
the centre, comprehends the parishes of Hamilton, Blantyre, East
Kilbride, Avondale, Glassford, Stonehouse, Dalserf, Cambusnethan,
Shotts, Dalziel, Bothwell, New Monkland, and Old Monkland. The Lower
Ward contains the parishes of Cadder, Cambuslang, Rutherglen,
Carmunnock, and part of Govan and Cathcart. In and around Glasgow
are the parishes of the City, Barony, Calton, Gorbals, Mary-hill,
Springburn, and Shettleston.
Dumbartonshire, in old times known as The Lennox, is
more or less mountainous, with some arable land near the Clyde. Loch
Lomond stretches for miles towards the Highland mountains, and the
“Lofty Ben Lomond,” over 3000 feet in height, rises from the eastern
side of the loch, seen from afar, whether from Highland hill or
Lowland vale. The area of this county is 172,677 acres, of which the
waters of Loch Lomond itself form nearly one-eighth part. The town
of Dumbarton, famous for its ship-building enterprise, is the
principal industrial centre.
Renfrewshire extends to 162,427 acres, and is much
diversified as to soil, minerals, towns, &c., and, like Lanarkshire,
contains many important industrial centres of population. From the
returns for 1887-88 the valuation of Lanarkshire appears to be
£2,079,860.
Several important tributary streams enter the Clyde
along its course, and are associated with many circumstances and
places of interest. Wilson, in his Clyde poem, enumerates these
streams, giving each its particular characteristic, thus:
“Glengonar’s dangerous stream was stained with
lead;
Fillets of wool bound dark Duneaton’s head ;
With corn-ears crowned, the sister Medwins rose,
And Mouse, whose mining stream in coverts flows;
Black Douglas, drunk by heroes far renowned,
And turbid Nethan’s front with alders bound;
Calder, with oak around his temples twined,
And Kelvin, Glasgow’s boundary flood designed;
Cart’s sombre stream, which deep and silent moves,
Where kings and queens of old indulged their loves;
Leven, which growth and infancy disdains,
Rushing in strength mature upon the plains.”
John Wilson was born near Lanark in the year 1720. He
wrote several pieces of a descriptive and dramatic character. His
poem of “The Clyde” was published in 1761. Wilson afterwards was
appointed to the Grammar-school of Greenock in 1767, under the
condition that he would give up “the profane and unprofitable art of
poem making.” This was a sore blow to the poet, but he accepted the
position, and devoted himself closely to his work, which he carried
on till within a year or two of his death in 1789.
Allan Ramsay was a native of Leadhills, where he was
born just about two hundred years ago. As described by himself:
“Of Crauford-muir, born in Lead-hill,
Where mineral springs Glengonir fill,
Which joins sweet flowing Clyde,
Between auld Craufurd-Lindsay’s towers,
And where Deneetnie rapid pours
His stream through Glotta’s tide.”
He afterwards went to Edinburgh, where, amongst many
pieces, his “Gentle Shepherd” was published in 1725. He died in
Edinburgh in 1757, aged 78.
Taylor and Symington, who were associated with the
first attempts at steam navigation made by Patrick Miller of
Dalswinton just a century ago, were also natives of this district.
Lanark is an ancient town and royal burgh, situated a
few miles north of the Clyde. According to some it was a seat of
royalty and the home of an early parliament in the tenth century.
Its associations with the patriot Wallace in his early struggles are
graphically portrayed in the Scottish Chiefs, and it was doubtless
one of the many points in the Roman system of military ways which
passed down the Clyde valley at the eastern end of the town.
A local guide-book states that “Lanark formerly
enjoyed the privilege of keeping the standard weights of the
kingdom. These weights were stamped with a spread eagle with two
heads, the arms of the burgh. In 1790 they were measured by
Professor Robison of Edinburgh, and a second time (about 1800) for
the purpose of rectifying those of Edinburgh.”
Here the ruins of the church of St. Ken Bern, dating
from the early part of the twelfth century, are interesting as an
example of the "Early English” architecture. The Lee Aisle is
attached to the building, and a number of quaint old tombstones may
be seen in the cemetery, together with a handsome monument erected
to the martyrs who suffered for conscience sake and belonged to the
district.
Sir Walter Scott, in his tale of the Talisman, tells
us that this talisman was an amulet supposed to possess special
healing virtues, and which was brought from the East in the
fourteenth century by Sir Simon Lockhart of Lee and Cartland, who
“left it to his heirs, by whom, and by Clydesdale in general, it
was, and is still, distinguished by the name of the Lee-penny, from
the name of his native seat of Lee.”
The history of bells is always curious and
interesting. One of those in the spire of the parish church has been
recast several times, the earliest date on it being 1110.
One of the principal tributary streams of the Clyde
is the Douglas Water, an important stream, draining the large
district to the south of Lanark and the Falls of Clyde, and lying to
the west of Tinto. The beautiful and fertile valley through which
this stream flows is called Douglasdale, the parish of Douglas
extending from the Clyde for about 12 miles. The parish is said to
take its name from the stream, Douglas signifying a dark colour, and
which appears to have given the surname of Douglas to the family who
so powerfully affected the history of Scotland in earlier days.
Douglas Castle, the “Castle Dangerous” of Sir Walter Scott, played,
like other strongholds, an important part in the War of
Independence, and he states that its surrender by the English about
the year 1306 “was the beginning of a career of conquest which was
uninterrupted until the crowning mercy was gained in the celebrated
field of Bannockburn.”
The Mouse enters the Clyde on the right bank a short
distance below Lanark. It is principally noticeable from the bold
and striking scenery near its point of junction with the river,
where it flows through the chasm of the Cartland Crags, spanned by
Telford's viaduct carrying the Glasgow road. Writing of Telford’s
works in roads and bridges, Smiles says: “Owing to the mountainous
nature of the country through winch Telford’s Carlisle and Glasgow
road passes, the bridges are unusually numerous and of laro-e
dimensions. Thus the Fiddler’s Burn Bridge is of three arches, one
of 150, and two of 105 feet span each. There are fourteen other
bridges, presenting from one to three arches, of from 20 to 90 feet
span.
But the most picturesque and remarkable bridge,
constructed by Telford in that district, was upon another line of
road subsequently carried out by him, in the upper part of the
county of Lanark, and crossing the main line of the Carlisle and
Glasgow road almost at right angles. It was carried over deep
ravines by several lofty bridges, the most formidable of which was
that across the Mouse Water at Cartland Crags, about a mile to the
west of Lanark. The stream here flows through a deep rocky chasm,
the sides of which are in some places about 400 feet high. At a
point where the height of the rocks is considerably less, but still
most formidable, Telford spanned the ravine 129 feet above the
water.”
The Netlian enters the Clyde on the left below
Stone-byres Fall. It flows through the parish of Lesmahagow (famous for its gas-coal), and not far from its
junction passes through a rocky gorge, on the top of which stands
the ruins of Craignethan Castle, believed to be the prototype of the
Castle of Tillietudlem in Old Mortality-A considerable extent of
Silurian rocks are met with in this district, some of the
characteristic Lingula fossils being found in the rocks of the
Nethan.
Ordnance survey and Ordnance datum are well-known
terms, especially the former, the latter belonging more specifically
to the province of the engineer. We often speak of differences of
levels of places and compare their heights; and if we look over the
Ordnance maps, which indeed so well repay careful study, we see not
only the country mapped out with accuracy, but we also find certain
figures dotted over the surface, showing the elevation of the land
above the fixed mean water datum at Liverpool. [This datum is a
point 4'67 feet above the level of the old Dock Sill, Liverpool.] The principles
underlying such a survey as that which has been carried out in this
country depend upon the science of spherical trigonometry, and are
more or less complex in their applications to the necessary
refinements entered into by the officers of the Survey. It may be
interesting, therefore, to note that a native of the parish of Carluke (General Roy) appears to have been the first surveyor who
carried out the earlier measurements of the base-lines required.
Thus, in a recent notice the Glasgow Herald, referring to the work
of General Roy and others about a century ago, says: “General Roy,
apart altogether from later labours, may be said to have originated
the Ordnance Survey as we now understand the phrase. It is pleasant for
west-country people to remember that this distinguished military
engineer was a native of Carluke parish, Lanarkshire.”
The Aven or Avon, doubtless from the British word for
river, flows into the Clyde at Hamilton, and drains a good extent of
country to the south. As it approaches the neighbourhood of Hamilton
it finds its way through the fine old woods of Cadzow, whose old
oaks, after braving the “battle and the breeze” of a thousand years,
are, many of them, still flourishing, and likely to see many more
changes in the coming years. Their battles have been mainly with the
elements and the somewhat varying conditions of climate throughout
the long centuries of their life; but they have struck root firmly,
and borne themselves nobly and bravely against the winds and frosts
of winter, and the no less trying droughts of summer. Some old
veterans there are, hollowed out by time, into whose shelter we can
gather; and as we stand within the oak walls, with their still
vigorous foliage floating high above us, we seem to hear them
whispering to one another old stories of the past, when the wild
animals and their Caledonian hunters roamed beneath their branches,
and the excitement of the chase or the din of war echoed through the
far-stretching glades. Later on the merry hawking party with
knights, ladies, and attendants, clad in the armour and gay attire
of the middle ages glanced amidst the sombre depths of this forest,
and in times nearer to our own, persecuted Covenanters sought
shelter amid its friendly covering. And here, even yet, under these
old oaks, we have a remnant of the wild denizens of the primeval
forest in the white cattle quietly feeding there. Cadzow, and
Chillingham in England, seem to be the only places where the old
breed of wild cattle now exists.
They are of a white colour with black muzzles, and
appear still to retain traces of the wild and untamable spirit of
their far-back ancestors of the Caledonian forest.
After passing the Avon we find three different
streams bearing the name of Calder as tributaries, two of which flow
in on the north side, and one on the southern side of the river. As
the wordCalder is said to indicate a place of wood and water, it is
not strange that it should be applied to several of the well-wooded
streams of this district. The South Calder Water is distinguished
for its fine semicircular arch, supposed to he of Roman origin, as
it is on the line of the Roman road which ran along the north side
of the Clyde.
A short distance below is the village of Bothwell
with its curious old church, thus described in
the Statistical Survey of Scotland:—
“The Old Church of Bothwell is a very ancient
structure, and presents a fine specimen of Gothic architecture. It
was used in former times as the quire of the collegiate church of
Bothwell. In Catholic times Bothwell was the most important of the
five collegiate churches of Lanarkshire. It was established by
Archibald Douglas, Lord of Galloway (who married Johanna Moray,
heiress of Bothwell), 10th October, 1398, and was confirmed by a
charter from the king, 5th Feb. 1398-9. It was about this period
that the present quire was built. The master-mason, as was indicated
by an inscription in Saxon letters on a stone near the outer base of
the old steeple, now removed, was Thomas Tron. The roof is arched
and lofty, and presents the most remarkable feature of the building.
On the outside it is covered with large flags of stone, hewn into
the form of tiles resting on a mass of lime and stone, which in the
centre is 11 feet in depth. The side walls are strengthened by
strong buttresses to support the weight of the roof.” The new parish
church was built in 1833, and is in the Gothic style, to harmonize
with the old church to which it is attached, a handsome tower, 120
feet high, rising at the junction of the two buildings. Joanna
Baillie, celebrated as an authoress, was born in Bothwell Manse, her
father, the Bev. James Baillie, D.D., being minister of the parish.
The Calder—sometimes called the Rotten Calder—rises
in the trap-hills to the south of Kilbride, and flows more or less
northwards through a district of much geological interest and
picturesque beauty. Both coal and ironstone have been worked along
the bed of this stream, the old entrance workings being still
visible. Cement-stones and limestones, both commercially valuable,
are worked at different parts of its course. One feature of special
interest to geologists is that in passing along in its course from
the hills to the Clyde it crosses the great “fault,” which runs more
or less parallel to the valley of the Clyde, and extends more or
less from the Nethan, near its confluence with the Clyde, to about a
mile or so to the south of Glasgow Bridge.
There is still another Calder flowing from the north
and joining the Clyde almost opposite the Rotten Calder, below
Uddingston.
The Kelvin is an important tributary of the Clyde,
draining1 a considerable area from its source In the Kilsyth Hills
till it falls into the river at Partick. Its course is interesting,
as at several points it is not far from the line of the Roman Wall,
and at Belmulie, a few miles north of Glasgow, it crosses a point
where at one time a Roman station was placed.
The Cart enters the Clyde on the south side, a few
miles farther down, passing to the west of the ancient burgh of
Renfrew, and not far from Inchinnan, whose religious church history
dates back to 1100—a grant to the Knights Templars being made at
that time by David I. Two considerable streams—the White Cart and
Black Cart—meet just a little above their junction with the Clyde,
the Black Cart having been, shortly before the junction,
supplemented by the waters of the Gryfe. These streams drain a large
extent of country from their sources in the high hill ground
bordering the southern valley of the Clyde, passing through
well-cultivated and populous districts, abounding in fine scenery
and varied associations, both of an antiquarian and commercial
character.
The White Cart rises in the Mearns district, eleven
miles south of Glasgow, and flows at first in a northerly direction,
passing through the parish of Cathcart and near the ruined castle of
the same name. Within a short distance is the field of Langside, the
battle fought there in 15G8 being so disastrous to the unfortunate
Queen
Mary of Scotland. This stream then turns westwards,
passing through the populous and industrial centre of Pollokshaws,
and shortly afterwards near the now ruined Crookston Castle, a
residence of the same ill-fated Queen in her earlier days. Flowing
through the busy town of Paisley, the White Cart turns again
northwards until it joins its brother with the dark cognomen, which
latter rises in Castle Semple Loeh, and flowing north-easterly is
joined by the Gryfe Water, which rises on the western side of
Renfrewshire behind Greenock, and flows through a long valley lying
amongst the hills. The head-waters of the Gryfe are utilized for
supplying the town of Greenock with water, and at Bridge of Weir a
dam is thrown across to give water-power to the mills there.
Campbell sings of the Cart:—
“Oh, the scenes of my childhood and dear to my heart,
Ye green waving woods on the margin of Cart!
How blest in the morning of life I have strayed
By
the stream of the vale and the grass-covered glade!”
Paisley appears to be situated on or near the site of
the old Roman station of Vanduara, and has for long been a
prosperous town, both in the early days of the hand-loom weaving
industry, and later on when water-power and steam gradually
superseded the use of hands, and the single work-room of the weaver
was extended and enlarged to the factory with its looms and
spinning-jennies for the manufacture of various fabrics. Now the
great thread-mill, where miles of that indispensable material for
sewing, whether by hand or by machine, is made, may be seen rising
as a palatial-looking structure many stories high. Our old friend
Pennant, always keenly alive to facts and objects of interest, tells
us that, “about fifty years ago the making of white stitching
threads was first introduced into the west country by a private
gentlewoman, Mrs. Millar of Bargarran, who, very much to her own
honour, imported a twist-mill from Holland and carried on a small
manufacture in her own family.” This early and simple attempt was
afterwards extended, and at the time of Pennant’s visit the value of
the thread manufacture had risen to nearly £50,000. Besides this the
manufacture of lawns, silk gauze, and ribbons, was carried on, and
the celebrated Paisley plaid, with its well-marked pine-cone
pattern, became quite a fashion. Some of these latter industries
have died out, but their place has been taken by others, and
Paisley, with her 66,000 inhabitants, is as busy as ever
manufacturing, besides thread and some other textile fabrics,
starch, corn-flour, and machinery, while on the banks of the
tributary Cart iron vessels of various kinds are now built.
Paisley has a long list of eminent men who have been
born within her borders. Professor Wilson, the “North” of
the Nodes; Wilson, the ornithologist; and the sweet singer, Tannahill, whose home is still shown where he worked at his loom;
many others whose names are celebrated were natives of this busy
industrial centre.
The Abbey Church is a fine old building, the style
being early English Gothic. Adjoining the church is a building
called the Sounding Aisle, from the wonderfully fine echo or
reverberation of sound which takes place inside. On shutting the
door suddenly the noise is intensified to such an extent as to
resemble a peal of thunder. The sound of a strong, deep voice is
answered by as it were the roar of a lion. Singing, especially low,
clear tones, and whistling, can be heard wandering away about the
roof as if there were answering spirits hovering above.
Passing down to Renfrew, another ancient burgh, we
are in the neighbourhood of Elderslie, where at least one tradition
says that the patriot Wallace was born.
“Yet bleeding and bound though her Wallace wight
For
his long-loved country die,
The bugle ne’er sung to a braver knight
Than Wallace
of Elderslie.”
Renfrew was an important place in early times, and
was frequented by royalty. Robert II. had a palace here, and, as
showing the condition of the river at these times, it is said that
in the sixteenth century the burgesses of Renfrew had sixty boats
employed fishing salmon. These fish, indeed, were so plentiful that
the apprentices in the ancient and royal burgh made a stipulation
that they were only to have a certain number of salmon dinners. Now,
a rail way-station, a steamboat wharf, and ship-building yards, are
the most striking features which attract the eyes of the visitor. It
may be noted that the building of dredgers is made a specialty here,
all the newest improvements being introduced, so as more readily to
scoop up and remove the dredged material from the river or bank. It
is not only in our own river that dredging operations are carried
on, but in many other rivers at home and abroad, and on the bars at
their mouths, the iron bucket tears its way and brings up its spoil.
Inchinnan parish church stands a little below
Renfrew, beautifully situated on a bend of the Gryfe close to its
junction with the Cart. A religious house existed here so far back
as in the year 1100; and in the graveyard several quaintly-carved
old stones may be seen.
The following anecdote is told to show the effect on
an upper Clydesdale man of the tidal action in the river here. "In
the early part of last century the clergyman of Lamington, in the
upper ward of Lanarkshire, had come to assist his friend, the
incumbent of Inehinnan, on a sacramental occasion, travelling on
horseback, and attended, according to the invariable practice, by
his man, who, although from his vocation a severe critic of sermons,
was profoundly ignorant of the doctrine of the tides. During the
course of the visit the servant was astounded and alarmed to
discover that the waters were moving in a direction the reverse of
what he had previously witnessed; whereupon, concluding that some
awful calamity impended, he hastened to his master’s chamber, broke
his slumbers, divulged the appalling phenomenon, suggested the
prudence of immediate departure, and concluded by expressing a faint
hope that they might yet reach Lamington in safety.”—Statistical
Survey of Scotland.
The water from Loch Humphrey in the Kilpatrick Hills
is perhaps the largest addition for some distance on the north side,
if we except the Forth and Clyde Canal, which empties itself at
Bowling. The stream referred to was largely utilized some years ago
by the mills at Duntocher erected there. A little above this village
the stream crosses the line of the Roman wall, where an old arch,
probably of Roman origin, still carries the roadway leading to
Glasgow by New Kilpatrick, and contains a stone with an inscription
in Latin, which appears to be a copy from an earlier part of the
structure. A mile or two lower down the river the small village of
Milton is situated in a hollow almost beneath the shadow of the
great basaltic hill of Dumbuck. This place, and Rothesay in the
island of Bute, have the honour of being the first to start the
cotton industry by power.
The Leven, also on the north side, is a short river,
being the outlet of the waters of Loch Lomond. It is not now the
stream of which Smollett wrote, as its banks are alive with various
industries, such as dyeing, printing, ship-building, &c.
“On Leven’s banks, while free to rove,
And tune the rural pipe of love,
I envied not the happiest swain
That ever trod the
Arcadian plain;
Devolving from thy parent lake,
A charming maze thy waters make,
By bowers of birch and grove of pine
And edges
flowered with eglantine.”
Dumbarton, situated at the foot of its guardian Rock,
has, like many other Scottish towns, a history stretching back to
the rude and troublous times of centuries ago; thereafter, as the
country quieted down, sharing in the manufacturing and commercial
progress of the times, due to the enterprise and skill of its
townspeople. At an earlier date it was noted for its glass
manufacture; now the specialty is ship-building and marine
engineering. The Dumbarton people appear early to have shown skill in the ship-building line, as it is said that a
ship was built here for King Robert the Bruce, who, after “life’s
fitful fever,” died at Cardross in the neighbourhood.
Pennant says, “The Roman fleet in all probability
had its station under Dumbarton; the Glota or Clyde has there
sufficient depth of water; the place was convenient and secure, near
the end of the wall, and covered by the fort of Dunglas; the Pharos
on the top of the great rock is another strong proof that the Romans
made it their harbour, for the water beyond is impassable for ships
or any vessels of large burden.”
From Dumbarton many fine steamers and sailing vessels
have been launched into the Leven, and its various shipbuilding and
engineering yards employ many thousands of workmen. And not only is
the practical department of ship-building so well represented, but
this town has the honour to possess a special feature, unique on the
Clyde, viz.: a tank, erected by the Messrs. Denny in the Leven
Shipyard, in which models of the various ships about to be built can
be experimented upon, and the results for the ship obtained from the
experiments with the model by means of the relations established by
the late Dr. Froude, whose tank at Torquay has yielded so many
results alike valuable to the ship-builder and the marine engineer.
From Pennant’s tour we learn that: “After a long
contest with a violent adverse wind, and very turbulent water,” he
passed under on the south shore, Newark, a castellated house with
round towers, and reached Port-Glasgow. He says it is “a
considerable town with a great pier, and numbers of large ships,
dependent on Glasgow, a creation of that city since the year 1608,
when it was purchased from Sir Patrick Maxwell of Newark, houses
built, a harbour formed, and the Custom-house for the Clyde
established.”
Port-Glasgow, with its many old-fashioned houses with
crow-stepped gables, and its distinctive odour to the passerby in
the railway train of tar or oakum from the rope-spinning works,
recalls the past times when there were few or no steam-boats and no
electric telegraph, and the sailing ship was the great ocean
carrier. The merchant in those days, after sending off his ship and
cargo, could rest contentedly, so far as these possessions went, and
was not worried, as his successor is at the present time, with swift
passages and “wires” from all quarters of the globe. This town was
originally called New Port-Glasgow, or shortly “Newport;” at least,
Wilson, about 1764, refers to it thus:
“Where, crowned with wood, fair hills embrace the
bay
Where Newport smiles, in youthful lustre gay.”
Ground was originally feued here by the magistrates
of Glasgow for a harbour for the shipping of the city. The Glasgow
people had at first thought of Dumbarton and then Greenock as their
port; but difficulties with the authorities of these independent
burghs caused them to set up one for themselves, hence Port-Glasgow.
Greenock, like the larger commercial city further up
the river, was but a comparatively small town about the middle of
last century, the population at that time being-under 4000. Looking
at a map of the river and firth published in 1760 by John Watt,
junr.,1 we see Greenock and the neighbouring town of Cartsdyke
(now long since united) as each clustered round their quays or
harbours, which project boldly into the river like bent arms, as if
to it el come and secure the passing sail.
Greenock, according to Dr. Leyden in 1767, was a “thriving seaport, rapidly emerging into notice. In the beginning of
last century it consisted of a single row of that died houses,
stretching along a bay without a harbour. In 1707 a harbour began to
be constructed, but the town increased so slowly that in 1755 its
population amounted only to about 3800 souls.'' In 1785 a dry-dock
was built, and from time to time the harbour accommodation improved,
so that about 1829, when the population amounted to about 27,000,
the length of quays was over 700 yards. The Custom-house was erected
in ISIS at a cost of £30,000, and with its handsome classic front
has long been a well-known object to the steam-boat travellers up
and down the river, and especially in the old days before the
Princes Pier and Wemyss Bay routes were opened. Many a hurried, and
perchance wearied, foot has trod the narrow and dirty lane which
used to lead from the railway terminus to the quay, passing this
tine edilice on the way. But not only has the march of improvement
in railway service been going on. it has also passed over the quaint
old crow-stepped gabled houses of this part of the town, and new
buildings in all the glory of fresh ashlar fronts have arisen in their place. A few years
ago a handsome group of buildings, with an elevated tower, were
erected for the municipal work of the town.
In the Statistical Survey of Scotland we have the
following curious extract:—
“In the Literary Rambler for October, 1832, there
are some curious excerpts from a manuscript in the Advocates’
Library, purporting to be a report by Thomas Tucker, one of
Cromwell’s servants, who was appointed to arrange the customs and
excise in this country; from which we may form some conception of
the state of commerce in Greenock and the neighbouring towns two
centuries ago. The report is addressed ‘ To the Right Honourable the
Commissioners for Appeals,’ and is dated November 20th, 1656. After
describing Glasgow as a ‘very neate burghe towne;’ all whose
inhabitants were traders except the students, ‘ some for Ireland,
with small smiddy coales in open boates from four to ten tonnes some for France with pladding, eoales, and hering.’ And some
venturing as far as Barbadoes, but discouraged by the loss they
sustained, ‘by reason of their going out and coming home late every
year.’ The reporter proceeds to describe the towns of Port-Glasgow
and Greenock in the following terms: ‘The number of ports in this
district are, 1st, Newarke (Port-Glasgow), a small place where there
are (besides the laird’s house of the place) some four or five
houses, but before them a pretty good roade, where all the vessells
doe ride, unlade, and send their goods up to the river Glasgow in
small boats; and at this place there is a wayter constantly
attending. 2dly, Greenock—such another—only the inhabitants are
more, but all sea men or fishermen trading for Ireland or the isles
in open boates. Att which place there is a mole peere where vessells
in stresse of weather may ride and shelter them selves before they
pass up to Newarke; and here, likewise, is another wayter.’ ”
Greenoek, with a population of about 70,000, is a
busy commercial centre. Ship-building, marine engineering,
iron-foundries, and sugar-works, all combine to give employment to
large numbers of work people. In busy times the smoke from the many
tall chimneys, although indicating commercial activity, has quite an
obscuring effect on the splendid landscape which opens out to the
passerby on the railways carried along the steep hill-sides above
the town.
The Shaws Water-works, for supplying Greenock with
water, were designed by Mr. Robert Thom, who had so successfully
carried out the water-power required for the Rothesay cotton-mills,
by laying various loehs under contribution, and regulating the
supply in the various channels by self-acting sluices. Mr. Thom
reported in 1824 on the Greenock supply, showing the great value of
the power which could be obtained. Mr. Thom was so impressed by
these advantages, that he says, “Here you would have no
steam-engines, vomiting smoke, and polluting earth and air for miles
round, to the no small annoyance and discomfort of the community at
large, and to the unspeakable vexation and chagrin of gardeners,
bleachers, and washerwomen.” Mr. Thom afterwards says: “It is not to
be inferred from this that I think lightly of the steam-engine. I
merely wish to draw a little attention to another source of national
wealth, which (perhaps obscured by the dazzling blaze that has so
long encircled the inventions of Watt) has been hitherto almost
totally neglected. Such, indeed, has been the eclat of the
steam-engine, that whenever a work became scarce of water, either
from its being enlarged or from a dry season, nothing was to be
heard but the general cry: ‘Put up a steam-engine, and be
independent of water.’ ” Mr. Thom, however, thought that the cry
would soon change to, “ Get water if you can, and down with your
steam-engines.” He, however, acknowledges the importance of his
rival, especially for navigation, and concludes by saying, “Nor
shall the name of the less fortunate inventor of the steam-boat be
ultimately lost to fame, for although a thoughtless public should
allow him to linger out the evening of his days in poverty, yet the
time is coming when public meetings will be held and monuments
erected to the memory of Henry Bell.”
Harbours and docks present an inviting water-way and
secure retreat for the various ships freighted with merchandise from
all quarters of the globe, and from the fine esplanade carried along
the shore to Fort Matilda a splendid view is afforded of the busy
river, with its variety of shipping, the outward and inward bound
Altantic liners at the Tail of the Bank, and the distant Highland
hills beyond the Kilcreggan shore. The range of the tide at Greenock
being small, from 8 to 10 feet, docks inclosed with locks or gates
were not so much required as in ports having a greater range.
Several of the docks or harbours are therefore open to the river.
Greenock, in its prosperity, has not forgotten the
poor and the aged. A large and well-appointed building to the west
of the town, called Wood’s Mariners’ Asylum, was founded in 1850 by
Commissary-General Sir Gabriel Wood, for the benefit of aged
merchant master-mariners and merchant seamen, natives of the county
of Renfrew and neighbourhood. Hospitals and Infirmaries, Charity
Schools, a Seamen’s Friend Society, homes for destitute boys and
girls, and many other benevolent undertakings, all go to show that
the present age, marked out as it is by the splendour of commercial
success and scientific skill, is yet especially noticeable above the
ages which have passed away as one of individual and public
benevolence. Greenock has also several scientific institutions, one
of which, the “Scientific Library,” was founded by James Watt in
1816. |