heels. The darkness and
the accident of the hour were kind, this was the life of the place for
centuries. Not then the time to take stock of the much that had gone and
the little that remained.
The Grassmarket is an oblong lying exactly south of the
Castle in the hollow, for the ground rises immediately again to the High
Riggs. In earlier days it was more of a square, when buildings connected
with the Corn Market took up some of its west side, but these are now
removed. Of old the Flodden wall ran southward across it, and there was a
gate, the famous West Port, and you read the name there to-day, though
gate and wall are alike vanished. Not altogether, however, since there is
a little bit of the latter at the passage called the Vennel, which steeply
ascends the High Riggs and takes you towards Lauriston and the Meadows.
Everything is interesting and curious about the Grassmarket. At the
northwest corner there is King’s Stables Road, where was the great
tilting-ground. And then the street opposite, outside the West Port, has
its own memories, though of another kind. Portsburgh Square, which is
neither venerable or impressive, reminds that here stood Wester Portsburgh,
the trade suburb of Edinburgh in one direction as the Canongate was the
Court suburb in another. In the days of the wall the West Port was the
only exit from Edinburgh in this direction, and all manner of royal
processions, as well as the daily business of life, passed by it through
the Grassmarket. Portsburgh Easter and Wester, the former lying away by
the Potterrow, have of themselves an interesting history not here to be
traced, but the very names of the ways are suggestive. The High Riggs is
now a street, but it recalls the old-time name of the ridge and of
High Riggs House, where the ancient family of Lawson had their seat, and
the name of one of them is still perpetuated in Lady Lawson Street. To the
south of the Grassmarket, Heriot Bridge leads to what was once the chief
entrance to George Heriot’s Hospital, and to the east of that again there
stood the famous Greyfriars Monastery, whose memory Old Greyfriars and New
Greyfriars Church and Churchyard still in some sort continues. The
Monastery came to a swift end at the Reformation, and Royal and noble
entries were no longer graced by attendant friars bearing sacred relics to
be kissed by fair and Royal lips. On the north side I have said the Castle
Wynd climbs straight up to the Castle. Wreckers and improvers may do what
they like, but they cannot alter the fall of the ground, and if you toil
up it to-day you will feel just as the old-time citizen did as he climbed
up and up its infinite ascent. On this Wynd was built an early Gaelic
chapel, where the Highlanders went to hear service in their own tongue.
The first pastor was a Macgregor, though, as the clan name and dress were
proscribed, he had to content himself with the base English translation of
Robertson and the prosaic modern attire instead of the magnificent kilt.
The time will come, no doubt he muttered, and in 1787, when the
proscription was removed by Act of Parliament, the time did come. Clad in
the correct garb of his clan, and rolling the euphonious Gaelic like a
sweet morsel under his tongue, his reverence proudly paraded the length
and breadth of Edinburgh, the admired of all beholders, a Highland
butterfly suddenly developed from an apparent Lowland grub! For a long
time the Highlands supplied Edinburgh with certain classes of its
population; the City Guard, or "Town’s Rottens" (rats), were Highlanders;
the caddies, the linkmen, the hewers of wood and drawers of water
generally were from the glens. This Celtic blend gave a distinct flavour
to city life. You meet it again and again in the pages of Fergusson. In
the railway epoch the Highlander well-nigh vanished; his old trades were
gone, and whatever be the reason he disdained the work of the mere navvy.
Then an enormous host of Irish descended on Edinburgh; they filled the
Cowgate and the Grassmarket, so that these became Hibernian colonies, and
modified with foreign touch the lower life of the city. But that again is
changed. The Irish have done their work, and though they still hold
possession of some subordinate fields of labour there is not a continual
large immigration.
Just as there are two exits to the west of the
Grassmarket, there are also two to the east; that to the north begins with
the famous West Bow. Of old time that was a steep and tortuous alley,
which ran in the form of an Z from the Bowhead, at the junction of the
Lawnmarket and Castle Hill, to the Bowfoot at the north-east end of the
Grassmarket; a bit of it still remains at the bottom. You go along it some
way, and then, where Victoria Street begins, you turn sharp to the left
and climb by a succession of stairs to the Lawnmarket. These stairs must
pretty nearly follow the old route, but the high, gloomy, impressive
houses, with all the quaint features of old Scots architecture, are clean
gone, and it is only from the antiquary that you pick up details of the
Templar Lands at the foot, of the old Assembly Rooms and Provost Stewart’s
Land on the west side, or Mahogany Land and Major Weir’s Land on the east.
Scott has rendered the "Sanctified bends of the Bow" classic, though
Bonnie Dundee did not, as a fact, ride down them on his way to the West
Port. He left Edinburgh by the Netherbow and Leith Wynd, as we note
elsewhere; and Scott, who must have known the truth of it well enough,
took him right through the quarters of his Covenanting foes for the sake
of effect in contrast. One reputation the West Bow had, however, or at
least one of its inhabitants had, and that was cleanliness. Old Edinburgh,
whatever its virtues, was not a dust-hating place, it was a well-known
reproach; witness the ponderous pleasantries of Dr Johnson.
The Edinburgh citizen was not without excuse. The
standard of material comfort in old-time Scotland was a low one; you could
scarce expect otherwise in a poverty-stricken country. You might hope for
better things from the capital, but the capital had its own peculiar
difficulties: the want of space, the dark, narrow closes, the tall lands
to which water had to be conveyed in insufficient quantities, for the
stairs were a terrible climb, by the caddies; the difficulty of getting
rid of refuse by other than the simple expedient of splashing it down into
the public street, after the brief warning of "gardy loo," supposed
to be a corruption of the French "garre a I’eau," though Mrs
Winifred Jenkins, in the Expedition of Humphrey Clinker, renders it
not inaptly as "may the Lord have mercy on your souls." These are gross
and palpable facts which I need not amplify; it is more amazing, perhaps
more instructive, to catch from chance phrases the ideas on this matter of
eighteenth century Edinburgh. Dr Hugh Blair, he of the Rhetoric and
the Sermons, known in name and neglected in fact by all of us, was
remarkable for what was deemed a foppish attention to his person. His
contemporaries noted with amazement the remarkable and continual
cleanliness and propriety of his dress. The fact is thought worthy of
commemoration in the sketch of him in Kay’s Edinburgh Portraits.
The wife of that eminent Moderate, Dr Alexander Carlyle of Inveresk
("Jupiter" Carlyle), was afflicted with rheumatism in her teeth. She
brushed them too often, he opined!
In 1764 a furnished house on the High Riggs is
advertised for occupation "with genteel furniture, perfectly clean." The
Edinburgh ideal in this respect was a lady who lived, circa 1770,
at the Cruick or Bend o’ the Bow, and whose memory is preserved by a
quaint old jingle:—
"Dame Jean Bethune at the Cruick o’ the Bow,
Caumed her steps as white’s a doe;
She had a nose as lang’s a flail,
Sair gien to steer her neighbours’ kail."
It was the greatest compliment an Edinburgh husband of
humble rank could pay to his wife regarding the condition of the house:
"That caumstaining would please Dame Jean Bethune." Alas, there was
another apothegm, "the clartier the cosier," which not unfairly, one
fears, represented the practice of old-time Edinburgh.
The most memorable associations of the Grassmarket are
gloomy ones. In opposition to the practice of modem times, the death
penalty was inflicted with the greatest publicity obtainable, and the law
made what use it could of the body of the malefactor. The head especially
was too precious an object to let go; it was affixed to some public gate
until it dropped to pieces, or perhaps a change of political sentiment—for
your martyr and your traitor were oft interchangeable terms—led to its
honourable burial. The Tolbooth, the Netherbow and the West Port were
provided with spikes, which were rarely without this garnishment. There
was a certain gradation: if you were a very great person—a Montrose or an
Argyll— your head went to the Tolbooth, "by merit raised to that bad
eminence"; if you were a little less remarkable, the Netherbow was good
enough for you; whilst were you but a common ruffian the West Port was the
appropriate spot. Not that this order was exactly observed. In 1487 Robert
Grahame, one of the assassins of James I., was here spiked. In 1515 there
was commotion in the city, and an object lesson seemed to anxious civic
rulers the one thing needful. Therefore the head of Peter Moffatt,
described as "ane great swearer and thief," was set up. Fully a century
and a half goes by, and heads are again in demand. Those of three
Covenanters had for some time adorned the spikes, when of a sudden two are
missing, removed for proper burial, it was surmised, by those who deemed
them the salt of the earth. The unseemly blank was not allowed to
continue. "The Criminal Lords," so Fountainhall assures us, "to supply
that want, ordained two of their criminals’ heads to be struck off and to
be affixed in their place." From about 1660 till 1784 all ordinary
executions, that is, those by hanging, took place at the north-east corner
of the Grassmarket, at the spot where it is joined by the West Bow. An
ancient rhyme, preserved in a note to Guy Mannering, pithily
records the criminal’s last progress from the Tolbooth, hard by St Giles’,
to the place of execution:
"Up the Lawnmarket, and down the West Bow,
Up the big ladder, and down the short tow."
It was here that a long succession of Covenanters went
"to glorify God in the Grassmarket," in the phrase of Rothes, though not
surely of him alone. The Scots have always had the fame of a determined
people, but never were they more determined than in the cause of the
Covenant. Instances of courage and heroism are so common as to become in
the end monotonous. When a band went to their death, lots were drawn as to
who should be the first victim, and the one selected received the token
with passionate exclamations of joy. When James Guthrie went to his doom,
and the cloth was drawn over his face ere they threw him from the ladder,
be caused it again to be lifted, that he might yet once again before the
end declare the testimony of his devotion to the Covenant. This is the
"famous Guthrie" of the famous Covenanters’ Monument in Greyfriars. There
was a strange scene that followed in St Giles’. There, as devout women
dressed the headless trunk for the tomb, a pleasant young gentleman
"poured out a bottle of rich intment on the body, which filled the whole
church with a noble perfume?’ Some of the ladies dipped their napkins in
the blood, to the great indignation of one of the opposite side. It is
worth recording that the "bluidy Mackenzie" himself, having still his name
to make, was counsel for the prisoner, and seemed more concerned for the
failure of his efforts than did his client. I can only mention the case,
in 1724, of "Half-hangit Maggie Dixon." The epithet reveals the history of
her imperfect execution. The story tells of her revival as she was carried
away in a cart, and how she lived long after, a well-known character of
Old Edinburgh, none the worse for her ghastly experience save a certain
crick in the neck, the origin of which was too obvious to need detailed
explanation. One more execution here must be noted. This was the scene, in
1736, of the Porteous Mob. Scott has told the story so fully, both in the
text and notes to the Heart of Midlothian, and again in his
Tales of a Grandfather, that the briefest mention must suffice.
Porteous, Captain of the City Guard, presided at the execution of Wilson
the smuggler. Wilson had almost become a popular idol. Smuggling to the
Edinburgh mob, since it involved cheap brandy and a hit at the hated
English Government—in 1736 the Union was a very recent sore—was rather a
virtue than a crime, and Wilson, moreover, had shown self-devotion in
aiding the escape of a comrade, a heroism of a kind affecting to the mass
of people. Finally, Porteous had treated him with unnecessary cruelty, and
too apprehensive of a riot had caused his soldiers to fire on the people.
He was tried for murder and condemned, but was reprieved by order from
London. The mob, however, broke into the Tolbooth, and hung him from a
dyer’s pole at the place of execution. Romance and art have embellished
the scene. The street "crowded with rioters, crimson with torchlight,
spectators filling every window of the tall houses, the Castle standing
high above the tumult against the night and the stars," were the
decorations of a scene of itself sufficiently impressive.
A little less than a century afterwards a set of
murders, hard by this fated spot, arrested the attention not merely of
Edinburgh but of Europe. The exact scene was Tanner’s Close, a foul alley
on the north side of the West Port, at the corner of the Grassmarket. Here
the Irish Thugs—-as they were well called—Burke and Hare, throttled victim
after victim. It was a case of cumulative horror; stories of
body-snatchers were rife, and the ponderous iron coverings we see in Old
Greyfriars to protect the graves enable us to imagine the fear that strove
thus to guard the remains of the loved lost ones. Perhaps the thing was
exaggerated, but it was keenly felt as a terrible outrage, and when the
rumour arose that remorseless science was taking its toll from the living
through the foulest of agents, you may imagine the horror and indignation
aroused. The victims were stupefied with drink, then choked, and then sold
to the doctors, of whom Knox of Surgeons’ Square was the most famous.
Their number was computed as between sixteen and thirty, and the period of
operation about nine months. The sum received was some £12 to £14 for a
subject, a very considerable sum in 1828, now near a century ago. At the
trial and conviction of Burke, the crowd, still unsatisfied, roared "Where
are the doctors?" When the murderers of James I. were executed, the Papal
Legate, afterwards a Piccolomini Pope, said, "he knew not which was more
terrible, the crime or its punishment," and here you can scarcely say
which was more barbarous—the criminals or their judges. The Lord Justice
Clerk Boyle, in sentencing Burke, regretted that gibbeting chains had gone
out of fashion, but expressed some satisfaction that he was to be publicly
dissected, and a wish that the skeleton might be preserved, "that
posterity may keep in remembrance your atrocious crimes."
The city held high carnival on execution day, and the
yells of the mob round this scaffold were never forgotten by those who
heard them. The body lay in hideous state, and endless thousands poured to
see it; finally it was cut up and put in strong pickle and small barrels
for the dissecting-table, part of the skin being tanned. The Scot
evidently still deserved his reputation as a good hater. The commoner folk
found, and probably still find, an unholy attraction in the grimy romance
of the story. The fate of handsome Mary Patterson and daft Jamie Wilson,
and the Italian boy, Lodovico, never fails to charm. The little white mice
which the latter had exhibited in the Grassmarket long haunted, so it was
averred, the grimy corners of Tanner’s Close.