LET us walk from the Castle Gate to the porch at
Holyrood and look at some places on the way. I avoid minute detail. In
going over the indwellers one is apt to lose a sense of proportion, to
forget that whilst Hume and Bums and Scott are of the world and all time,
"auld worthy, faithfu’ Provost Dick" and Bailie Macmorran are only City
folk, and Allan Ramsay, and even Fergusson, only for Scotland. Where there
is such a wealth of crop you can neglect all but the finest of the wheat.
A little way down on your left hand you pass the back
of the Free Kirk College. Here stood the palace of Mary of Lorraine and
Guise, widow of James V., where she lived in the middle of the sixteenth
century. Tradition still dwells on the high ceiling and
beautiful decoration of the hall, of the long array of windows on the
north side and the far prospect they disclosed, and the gardens that
sloped down to the Nor’ Loch. You will not neglect its successor, the
quaint little quadrangle, made up of a college on the west and a kirk—the
Free High, as it is called—on the east, the Assembly Hall on the south,
and the entrance gateway on the north, which opens on the Mound, and is
thus rather of the new than of the old town.
It is a symbolical half-way house, for old Scotland
lives for us most vividly in certain forms of its faith. This same gateway
is adorned with two tall towers, and looking at it from Princes Street you
see just behind the steeple of the state church Assembly Hall, at the
junction of High Street and Lawnmarket, and not far from the old place of
meeting in St Giles’. The view from Princes Street seemed to Dean Stanley
a symbol of the dependence of the new forms on the old. It was vacation
time as I strolled in the quadrangle. I read the text on the place of
meeting, "Praise Him in the assembly of the Elders," and the inscription
on the not successful statue of John Knox in the quadrangle. He looked
"dour," not to say "sour" enough to justify Browning’s unhappy epithet. In
life John Knox was the enemy of the Regent, and a certain quaintness has
been found in the fact that his statue stands in her very gates. But one
effect of the narrow space is to fill Edinburgh in present fact and past
history with every manner of whimsical contrast. The charger of Charles
II.'s statue in the Parliament Close tramples on the grave of Knox, or is
only restrained from doing it by the exigencies of the pedestal.
Going down the street you pass James’s Court, with
memories of Hume and Boswell and Dr Johnson. This old place, dating from
1725-27, made havoc in its time of many an ancient
close. It was a daring speculation of James Brownhill, a builder of the
time, hence its name. Across the way is Riddle’s Court, formerly Bailie
Macmorran’s Close. The Bailie had a tragic fate. He was shot in a riot of
the High School boys by William Sinclair, ancestor of the Earls of
Caithness. Next it is Brodie’s Close, called from that interesting
malefactor, whom we shall meet again; and just about where George IV.
Bridge and the road it carries run southward was Libberton’s Wynd, and in
it Johnnie Dowie’s Tavern,
"Where couthy chields at e’ening meet,
Their bizzin craigs and mou’s to weet."
Among the "couthy chields" were Robert Fergusson and
Robert Burns.
Going over to the north side again, you look at Lady
Stair’s Close. This Lady Stair was granddaughter of Lord High Chancellor
Louden, and was married when young to Lord Primrose of Castlefield, who
was scarce sane. Once he advanced with drawn sword to kill her: she saw
the reflection in the mirror, and wild with fear, jumped out of the window
into the street, and fled, half-dressed, to her mother-in-law. Naturally
she would have none of him, husband as he was. But she was destined to see
him once again, and again in a mirror. He had gone abroad, and apparently
was lost, when there came to Edinburgh an Italian magician, who professed
to show those interested in the absent what those same absent were doing
at the moment. The lady and her friend sought the magician, dressed as
servants, though their speech and their hands easily betrayed them. After
certain weird rites he exhibited a mirror, wherein appeared a succession
of scenes, like a modern cinematograph—a church, a bridal party, a service
interrupted at the critical moment by a man with a drawn sword. Then the
vision faded, not before the lady had recognized in the bridegroom her own
husband, in the intruder her own brother. She marked the day and the hour,
and then, as you guess, in due time the brother turned up and described
how Lord Primrose was about to commit bigamy with the only daughter of a
wealthy merchant in a Dutch town when he was stopped in the nick of time
by the brother, who (strange coincidence!) just then strolled into the
church where the service was in progress. Comparison showed the day and
hour of the vision and the event to be identical. Lord Primrose died
abroad in 1706, and his widow had many wooers, chief among them the Earl
of Stair, one of the best parties in Scotland. She would have none of him,
for she dreaded marriage, but he found means, by a not very creditable
trick, of forcing her to marry him to save her reputation. He was a
perfect spouse, save when "disguised in liquor," as our ancestors phrased
it, when he mauled her unmercifully. Unfortunately the Scots gentlemen of
the period were so frequently "disguised" in this manner that the
exception seemed not seldom the rule. Once he found her in the morning
covered with blood, and like one distracted he was filled with concern and
grief, which increased when he discovered that he himself was the cause of
the trouble. To abjure the bottle altogether was a counsel of perfection
too great for a Scots nobleman; at least he would only take what drink she
handed him. Contemporary accounts report, with admiration, his
faithful observance of this vow, but perhaps the lady was reasonably
liberal. He died in 1747. Funerals were one of the great spectacles
of the time, but his was of a complicated splendour, that long lingered in
the memories of admiring mourners. His widow survived him twelve years.
The Douglas Cause in its own days excited everybody as
the Tichborne Trial did in later times. Lord Dundonald told the Duke of
Douglas that Lady Stair held certain views. Let him be thought "a damned
villain" if he spoke not the truth. Lady Stair was equal to the occasion.
She proceeded to Holyrood in full state, and in presence of the Duke and
all his satellites she smote the floor with her staff three times, and
each time gave the Earl, with the utmost of emphasis, the name he had
craved. Scott’s story of My Aunt Margaret’s Mirror is founded on
this Lady Stair tradition. Lord Rosebery restored the house in this close
of his forefathers and gifted it to the town.
Legends of interest hang round all the closes. These
legends are mainly of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, because
the chronicler was then more in evidence. But for centuries before the
close teemed with its own busy life, though its records are dim and dark.
Once this close was called Lady Gray’s, and earlier it had other terms.
Even yet, in the smaller Scots towns, the close is named from the chief
indweller for the time being. In Edinburgh it was so till some famous
character made a more permanent impression, or a time of street
nomenclature fixed a transitory appellation. From Lady Stair’s Close you
could see the window of the room where Burns spent the winter of 1786,
though the entrance to the house was from Upper Baxter’s Close, which as a
separate entry has now vanished. The tavern played a great part—harmful or
otherwise—in the life of Old Edinburgh, as it did in the life of Robert
Burns. Of his "howf" at Libberton’s Wynd, across the way, I have spoken.
But further down on the north side, and near Cockburn Street, is Anchor
Close, and there at the house of Dawny Douglas met the Crochallan
Fencibles—called, it is guessed, from a Gaelic song sung by the
landlord—and with them Burns laughed and drank, and they received him with
open arms, and he has given them the only thing he had to give, and that
was immortality.
In jumping from Lady Stair’s Close to Anchor Close I
have gone over a great deal that deserves notice. We have passed
Advocates’ Close, where Andrew Crosby, known to readers of Guy
Mannering as Councillor Pleydell, lived. Warriston’s Close was called
after that stern covenanting Lord Advocate, whose courage, a rare thing,
well nigh deserted him on the scaffold. When they carried Baillie of
Jerviswood along the High Street to his death—he was too infirm to go
unaided—he lifted his eyes to Warriston’s window and spoke to his
sister-in-law, the Lady Graden, who was with him to the end, of the high
talk he had held with her father some twenty years before. John Knox had
for long his abode here, as a tablet on the wall reminds. The publishing
offices of Messrs W. & R. Chambers, Limited, now occupy most of this
close, which is all fresh and so is famous only for its memories. A lintel
built into the new part preserves the memory of the family of Bruce,
earlier occupants of the close and of sufficient renown in their day and
generation. Then there is Writer’s Court, famous for another tavern called
Clerihugh’s, where Colonel Mannering found Mr Pleydell engaged in high
jinks of the maddest.
Of the Royal Exchange, built between 1753 and 1761, and
considered a great improvement in its time, I note that its chief use now
is as the City Chambers or Guildhall, and a rather poor Guildhall it is
for a city like Edinburgh. It contains, however, the valuable Corporation
Museum, where is collected an enormous mass of material relating to the
past of the town. If you want to know Old Edinburgh you must give up many
days to the treasures of this collection. Across the street, on the south
side, there is much of interest between the Tron and the Parliament Close.
Old Assembly Close, where were held those aristocratic meetings, removed
thither from the West Bow and thence to George Street, was presided over
by Nickie Murray, satirized in their day by Goldsmith. Covenant Close is
so called because a version of that famous document was signed there, and
here, the mythical Nanty Ewart, and the real Weir of Hermiston, to wit,
Lord Braxfield, lived, and hard by, in the open space of Hunter Square,
near the Tron, was the Black Turnpike, where Mary spent the terrible night
after Carberry Hill; and just behind, in Kennedy’s Close, lived and died
George Buchanan.
The Tron Church marks the crossway over the North and
South Bridges, to-day the great thoroughfare between Old and New Edinburgh
and the most pronounced break in all your walk. You might call it the
central part of Edinburgh, the place where the Old Town and New Town meet,
and where the different currents encounter. Towards midnight on the last
day of the year a great crowd here assembles to hail the hour with toasts
and songs, and to depart in all directions on first footing and jollity
bent.
Continuing our rapid survey eastward, the next most
promising object on the north is the so-called John Knox’s house, a
charming old place both inside and outside, but your modem antiquary will
scarce allow it the title. He proves that Knox lived, as we have seen, in
Warriston’s Close. The house belonged to a certain John Mossman, an
adherent of Queen Mary, for whom he gave his life on the scaffold. Strange
that such a mystery should hang over the John Knox topography. It has been
denied that Haddington was his birthplace; the exact locus of his
grave is uncertain, but really the house where he lived, whilst he was the
best-known man in Edinburgh to friend and foe alike, how can that be
doubted? Is popular tradition to go for nothing? How curiously little the
men of those days thought about themselves apart from the cause on which
they were engaged, for Knox himself tells us neither where he was born nor
where he lived! It has been conjectured that he spent the last years of
his life here, and here he died. This theory gets us out of a difficulty,
and enables us to retain our belief in Knox’s study, and so forth. The
Free Kirk bought the house; it is a sort of Knox Museum, furnished after
the style of the period, and full of objects of interest. Among them the
rushlight that is older than candles; the tirling pin, which served the
purpose of a knocker; the hour-glass, wherewith he probably forgot to
regulate his sermons; the panelling that is perhaps older than his time.
Across the way, and continuing from the Tron there is
Strichen’s Close, formerly Rosehaugh’s Close, where dwelt the "Bluidy
Advocate Mackenzie, that for his worldly wit and wisdom was to the rest as
a god." Further east is the Blackfriars Wynd, or Street as it is now
called. Here was Cardinal Beaton’s palace. Up this alley, in a glitter of
torch-light and gleaming swords, went Queen Mary from Kirk o’ Field to
Holyrood, on the night of 9th February 1567, the night of Darnley’s
murder, the turn of Fortune’s tide with her, while Bothwell's accomplices
were creeping down the adjacent alley of Toddrick’s Wynd to Kirk o’ Field
on their murderous work. In South Gray’s or the Mint Close was the old
Scots mint. Tweeddale Court, a little way eastward, was the scene of a
remarkable murder and robbery on 13th November 1806. The victim was
William Begbie, a bank messenger, and the booty was £4000, of which £3000
was afterwards found at no great distance. The murder was done in the
midst of a crowded locality, without the least suspicion, and the murderer
was never discovered, though his identity was conjectured with some
probability. The neighbouring World’s End Close recalls an older and still
more gruesome tragedy. It was once Standsfield’s Close, after Sir James
Standsfield, an Englishman, and proprietor of cloth mills near Haddington.
He was murdered by his son, as noted elsewhere.
Here in the old days, or at any rate nights, we had
been sharply brought up by the Netherbow Port, with which, or with the
keeper thereof, we needs must negotiate ere we passed through. Probably
that is why the close had its odd later name—the World’s End. This quaint
old gate was, as noted, removed in 1764 and save that the street is
narrower you pass on into the Canongate without stay or hindrance.
The Canongate of old was not Edinburgh at all. In
Catholic times it was under the Abbey of Holyrood. Then the Earls of
Roxburgh were its over-lords or "superiors," in the terms of Scot’s law.
In 1636 this superiority was acquired by the Magistrates of Edinburgh, and
now the town spreads all round and far beyond it. Once it was adorned with
three crosses: that of St John, at the head of the present St John Street;
the Market Cross, the shaft of which still remains at the Tolbooth; and
the Girth Cross, 100 feet west from the Abbey Strand. This last had three
steps and a pillar, and marked the western limit of the sanctuary.
The most striking thing to-day in the Canongate is the
Tolbooth, with quaint tower and spire, and all manner and touch of French
detail. It stands midway on the north side, and right and left are places,
the centre of storied tradition. One house has a legend, commemorated by
Scott in the ballad of the "Friar of Orders Grey" in Rokeby, of a
clergyman taken at dead of night to give ghostly comfort to a dying woman.
The worthy divine found the lady as well as could be expected of one just
delivered of a child. He ventured to hint as much, but was sternly
admonished of his task, which he performed with fear and trembling.
Betimes next morning the house flared to the sky, and the clergyman
learned, with sinking heart, that the daughter of the owner had perished
in the flames, and though there was suspicion of a fearful deed, yet the
authorities did not rashly interfere with family matters in those days,
and nothing definite was known or done. And then you pass Morocco Land,
adorned with the figure of a Moor, to which the surrounding grime has
added superfluous blackness. There is a romantic story attached, how in
the depth of the great plague year, 1645, a pirate ship appeared in the
Forth, which turned out to be an Algerine rover, commanded by an old
Edinburgh fugitive boy, one Andrew Gray. He came to destroy, but stayed to
marry the provost daughter, whom he cured of the plague, by love, magic,
or eastern charm; but he had vowed not to enter Edinburgh, and so he dwelt
in Morocco Land.
Also there is Golfer’s Land, won by John Patterson in
James VII.’s time by a truly royal game of golf; and there is the site, at
any rate, of my Lord Seton’s lodgings in the Canongate, which you connect
with Roland Graham and charming Catherine Seton.
Quite near is the White Horse Close. It was well known
as the regular starting-place for a journey to London. From here a band of
Scots nobles were riding forth to join King Charles I. at Berwick when the
populace rose and hindered all except Montrose. This was known as the "Stoppit
Stravaig." A stravaig is an old Scots word for a haphazard march or
excursion. The White Horse Inn, where Dr Johnson put up, was not here but
at St Mary Street, at the Netherbow; the Watergate, it is said, took its
name from the pond attached to the older inn.
Beyond the Watergate, and within the Palace grounds,
was the Royal Tennis Court, long since vanished. Early theatrical
representations were here, and it is possible that Shakespeare himself may
have trod that stage.
In later years, when the Duke of York, afterwards James
VII. and II., came north to set up Court for a little at Holyrood, he
brought with him a troupe of
players. Devout men in the Canongate were mightily incensed, but time has
not preserved their outpourings. In a quite different quarter, among the
actors left in England, there was also considerable irritation, and as
they had Dryden for a mouthpiece their abuse is classic. Glorious John
mocked merrily at those ancient themes—Scots pride and poverty. Actors of
a certain sort have all gone north to Edinburgh
:—
"With bonny blue cap there
they act all night
For Scotch half-crown, in English
threepence hight."As a Scots
pound only made one English shilling and eightpence, the gibe was near
enough the mark. The poet goes on to hint that supernumeraries and
doorkeepers may very well be pressed into service and palmed off as
competent performers in the ignorant north. But it would never do to give
the natives a sight of gorgeous clothes.
"Laced linen there would be a
dangerous thing;
It might perhaps a new rebellion bring,
The Scot who wore it would be chosen King."
Near the Watergate was Luckie
Wood’s, one of those famous old Edinburgh taverns, whose memory lingers in
the verse of Allan Ramsay:-
"She gaed as feat as a new preen,
And kept her housie snod and bien,
Her pewther glanc’d upo’ your een
Like siller plate;
She was a sonsie wife and clean,
Without debate."
On the south side there are matters
of equal interest. Huntly House, with its quaint gables and its profusion
of inscriptions, is always for me a lesson on the value of popular
tradition. The street arab here is a bit of an antiquary, though of an
uncritical kind. If you stop to look at a house, he, with a possible tip
in view, is sure to supply you with extraordinary information. "There," I
was once told, "is the Tolbooth" (the Canongate Tolbooth was indicated),
"where Effie Deans was tried for her life, and there is Huntly House,
where Lady Jane Grey lived when she was in Scotland." Lady Jane Grey never
was in Scotland, and the house was not built until after her young head
had fallen on Tower Hill. But the tradition is curiously persistent, and
is supposed to have arisen from some confusion with another Lady Jane.
Effie Dean’s prison was, of course, the vanished Heart of Midlothian.
Queensberry House and Milton House
are fallen on commonplace, not to say sordid days, though they still
impress by their mass. The former was the scene of a peculiarly atrocious
murder by the lunatic heir, whilst most of the family were away at the
Parliament House engaged in the Union negotiations; at least that is the
popular tradition, perhaps it is not true. One can at least hope that the
gruesome details are mythical. Queensberry was on the unpopular side, and
the Edinburgh mob was mad with rage,
both from national and civic patriotism—and
those old Scots were terrible haters, had absolutely no bounds to their
resentment.
The mention of the Union directs us to the adjacent
spacious and imposing Moray House. In its garden was a summer-house, where
the Treaty of Union was signed, or half signed, for the Commissioners were
rudely disturbed by the mob and driven elsewhere. Here Cromwell lodged,
and here, it has been rumoured, the resolution to execute the King was
made. The balcony in front recalls one of the most dramatic scenes even in
Scots history. Upon the 18th May 1630, Lord Lorne, the son of the Marquis
of Argyll, was wedded to the Earl of Moray’s daughter, and there they
stood after the ceremony when there passed a procession through the
Watergate and up towards the High Street. It was the captive Montrose,
bound on a cart, led by the common hangman, with every circumstance of
ignominy, to his doom. The cart was stopped in front of Moray House and
the mortal enemies confronted one another. Tradition errs, or Montrose
comported himself with patient dignity that made him come off not
second-best from that ordeal. Time soon brought its revenge. The two
Argylls and Warriston, one of the guests, before very many years, trod the
same Via Dolorosa,
suffered at the same place of death.
After this other things seem tame,
but you may remember that Playhouse Close and Old Playhouse Close are
connected with the struggles of the Drama in Scotland. Here on 14th
December 1756, was produced Douglas,
by John Home, minister of Athelstaneford,
and a nice pother the Church made about that now quite neglected piece.
And St John Street cannot pass without a word, for here lived Smollett
some little time in 1766, and here he gained those life-like impressions
of Edinburgh reproduced in The Expedition of Humphrey Clinker. Here
resided James Ballantyne, and here he was wont to give those famous
supper-parties, when he would bring forth and read something that "outdid
the meat, outdid the frolic wine," and that was nothing less than the
choicest portions of a forthcoming Waverley. Finally, on the west
side, and, as far as you can judge, little if at all changed, is the
meeting-place of the Old Canongate Kilwinning Lodge of Freemasons, which
received Burns with open arms and crowned him Poet-Laureate.
When the Court left Scotland in 1603 the decay of the
Canongate began, and after the Union in 1707 this was accelerated, though
till the New Town rose across the valley it had not lost all pretension to
gentility; but now is its Nadir. Gasworks and tanpits touch with acrid
odour the air, already none of the sweetest. Its dingy and noisome closes
are the haunts of "broken men, wasters and somers," as the old Scots Acts
branded the ill-starred in life. The movement towards better things that
is evident in the High Street and round the Castle has not yet reached
here. Are those frowsy jades or bloated hags that hang listlessly around
the close "fits" the rightful successors of the gay and frolicsome ladies,
the subject of many an old song, many a courtly stave, that rings in your
head as you pace the stones?
"As I came down the Canongate
I heard a lassie sing."
But to-day the daughters of music are mute, and again:
"The lasses o’ the Canongate,
Oh, they are wondrous nice;
They winna gie a single kiss,
But for a double price."
Time has blunted the point of that hit which remains
obscure. And where, too, has gone the elusive and seductive Bonnie Mally
Lee?
"And we’re a’ gaun east and west,
We’re a’ gaun agee,
We’re a’ gaun east and west,
Courtin’ Mally Lee."
Her very ghost has shivered, and fled those grimy ways.
The most terrible thing in the Canongate are the faces of the women. And
in odd contrast, almost overhead, is the great park and hill and silent
nooks at hand, yet how far removed! And still nearer and closer and on the
same soil is Holyrood. Nature, history, letters, romance are there in the
very grime. |