A MAN whose daily task was to mole among gas-pipes and
the like under every part of the burgh of Haddington told me that wherever
he dug he found human bones, and the most he judged to have come there by
violence of fire, flood, plague or slaughter. To-day the town is trim and
quiet, in its broad streets, with here and there grass between the stones.
Some places have old-time names, as Poldrate, The Lang Causey, the Butts.
It lies low down by the Tyne, which divides it from the suburb of Nungate.
There are trees and abundant green in it, and about it,—as where not in
Scotland?—the all-saving presence of the hills—the Garleton ridge to the
north, the Lammermuirs to the south. These last change even as living
forms under change of weather. Now they gather round and bend over the
town, and again they withdraw to far-off horizons, and they smile bright
or frown dark, but always potent.
I remember quiet Haddington quainter than it now is. In
the admirable Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland, by
MacGibbon and Ross, are drawings of the Roundles at Bedlam Close, Farmer’s
House in the Nungate, and the so-called Bothwell Castle. Those competent
judges thought them most important and interesting. The first two are
clean vanished, and Bothwell Castle is a crumbling, deserted ruin. The
whole of Nungate was once a jewel of rare excellence. Miry and malodorous,
dirty and disreputable, it was yet the very image of the old Scots town of
centuries ago. It was crammed with every feature of old Scots
architecture. Roundles, pends, closes, wynds, outside stairs, everything!
Nobody built, nobody pulled down. It culminated in Farmer’s House, some
work of the wealthy, ancient Abbey to which Nungate belonged, and there
was and still is the ruined old chapel of St Martin, of forgotten origin.
When the moonlight scored and underlined the fantastic shadows of the old
houses, and you looked across the Tyne at the river front of Bothwell
Castle, with its dim yet authentic tradition of Mary Stuart and her wicked
spouse, and you caught a snatch of old Scots rhyme, simple and romantic,
sung by children at play, you had found the supreme moment for Nungate of
Haddington. I shall never walk in it again. There is a new bridge over the
Tyne, and a new flour-mill with a new name, and the house-breaker and the
house-builder are busy, and Nungate is swept and garnished. If I lived in
it I should be delighted, but I would that some millionaire of antiquarian
taste had bought all fifty years since, and carefully dusted and preserved
it under glass as a unique specimen of what is now gone and cannot return.
The parish church, or Auld Kirk, dedicated to St Mary,
was known as Lucerna Laudoniae, the Lamp of Lothian, because it was
splendid, or some say because it carried a light to guide the traveller
over these dreary wastes and moorland that are now fertile fields. But
most church towers of old carried a light; and though the tower be square,
and massive, and imposing, yet it lies so low down that I doubt the
efficacy of the light. Moreover, just as the old church builder loved his
gargoyle and his pinnacle, so the old church writer loved his picturesque
phrase and his parable. Does not the light of the lamp admirably image
forth spiritual and temporal splendour? The antiquary here puts his spoke
in the wheel. The real lamp, he will have it, was a bowshot off—a
Franciscan monastery, in fact, whereof not a stone remains. I cannot tell.
This at least is served heir to every species of church that ever was in
Haddington, and with its comely stone, its fair shape, and a certain
restraint and dignity in all its lines, it is a beautiful relic of other
days. An old woman who had lived all her life under its shadow told me
that as she grew up everything in Haddington shrunk and became less to her
save this old church. It has been fearfully mauled about. The "Auld Enemy"
with his torch, and the too early Restorer with his compass, the
passionate Reformer, the callous Philistine, all did their cruel worst.
The choir is a ruin, what is left shored up with difficulty, and every
stone has marks of some evil touch, yet it is fair and impressive in spite
of everything. The mediaeval world could do one thing, at any rate,
supremely well: it could big a kirk. The best your modern can do is to
imitate. He cannot always manage even that. If you look across towards the
river you will think that same vanished world could do one other thing,
and that was, build a brig! The Nungate bridge, which connects with that
suburb, is straight and narrow, and it is steep to climb, but it has the
same beautiful stone as the kirk, the like graceful arch, the like formal
symmetry. The last restorers, to give them their due, have been modest and
discreet; they have destroyed the destroyers, and looked back rather than
forward. You see brig and kirk to-day under the best conditions.
And what about those "fellows in the cellarage"—those
silent witnesses under the soil? Impossible to recover the history of any
one, yet the history of the town explains how they came there. It was four
times burned. Once by chance or malice, thrice in warfare with the "Auld
Enemy," of course—the enemy that meets you at every turn in Scots annals
to check and thwart. It was flooded again and again. The plague, a
constantly-returning dread, tore at it year by year. Less than a century
since there was a severe visitation of cholera. Careful cleaning,
sanitation, whitewash, pure water supply are recent things. One or two
scraps of doubtful authenticity have escaped the general oblivion. The
flood of 1358 threatened to sweep away kirk and town in common ruin, when
a nun, seizing an image of the Virgin, vowed it should go too unless Our
Lady condescended to help her own. And there is a comic interlude of a
citizen of Nungate who perched on the detached roof of his hut, with dog,
cat and cock for fellows.
"Row we merely (merrily)
Quo John Burley,"
japed he with sardonic mirth when he swept under the
bridge, "a saying of Nungate in Haddington to this day," but the scribe
himself has gone centuries ago.
Lothian, the capital excepted, was never keenly moved
by religious change; its folk took things as they came, yet that did not
save them from trouble. In Reformation times religion and politics were
strangely mingled. Haddington was held by the English, and in 1548 was
closely besieged for some eighteen months by the Scots and a body of
French auxiliaries. The folk in the walls had a hard time of it; there was
plague within and assaults without. One of the foreign besiegers, a
certain Monsieur Beague, has left an account in very lively French. Like
others of his tribe he takes for granted the common incidents of daily
life, and so leaves untold what had now been of rare interest. This
incident he gives. A Highland kern among the Scots admired the dashing
French style of attack, he would do something in emulation. On the next
sally he rushed up to the foe, gripped an Englishman, threw him over his
shoulder, and staggered across to his own side. The captive struggled
frantically, but in vain, though he bit him in so brutal a fashion on the
shoulder that his life was in danger. The French captain rewarded the
exploit with a coat of mail and twenty crowns. The Celt was effusive in
his gratitude. No wonder! He had never been so well armed or so well in
pocket all his life. The thing had its usual ending. What was there to get
in that savage country but hard fare and hard blows? So the foreign friend
and the foreign foe presently departed, and the place was left with "a
mean number of the ancient inhabitants to re-build and venture as best
they could." So Knox sums up the siege in a brief phrase. He does not
think it worth while to record that he was born there, though he once
reminded Bothwell, in strangely, kindly and pathetic words, as you deem,
reflecting on all that passed between them, that he and his had served the
Hepburns for generations. Had he condescended on the place of his nativity
he had solved a once keenly-contested point. The whole weight of evidence
is in favour of the spot by the well in Nungate that you see from the
bridge. One odd custom for long kept the folk of Haddington in memory of
their former troubles. The Town officer paraded the streets at nightfall
throughout the year, and with tuck of drum chanted a rough, rude rhyme
warning against the danger of fire. It was known as "coal and canle" from
its leading words. This too is long disused.
Those old citizens had a miserable time. Were they not
tempted to flee the place altogether? Far from it. So you gather from a
series of entries in the burgh records. For all offences there was one
penalty: the offender was "banished ye towne." If he came back he was
scourged or branded, or both, and again thrust forth. If the fatal
attraction of Haddington lured him yet again, there was a gallows in
frequent use at the West Port, just outside the wall, and there was
presently no more of him. The local hangman, by the way, had perhaps from
frequent practice a more than local reputation. His services were in
request in other quarters. The unpleasing name of Gallows Green preserved
the memory of the fatal spot till recent times. It was not found a choice
term for a spick-and-span suburban villa, and the owner changed it to
something more commonplace. Not criminals alone were summarily thrust
forth. The same fate befel beggars, Egyptians and all afflicted with the
plague. It was to the citizens a dim, menacing outer world inhabited by
English invaders, impost collectors, marauders, savage contending Scots
barons as bad as any. They barred their gates against all manner of
intruders and strangers, they kept themselves cosy in their quaint little
houses, and so in some fashion or other the burgh life went its course
through centuries till the stream of time floated down Haddington to the
present day, always oddly enough with about the same number of
inhabitants.
The literary history of the place has its own interest.
Three names occur in distinct epochs: John Knox, John Brown, and Jane
Welsh Carlyle. Each of these has a less or greater reputation, but not
mainly that of letters. It is said of Bacon that he was great even as
lawyer. Knox was great even as writer. He is vigorous, graphic, humorous,
picturesque; you wonder he is not more read. Because perhaps his manner is
antiquated and his themes unfortunate. His First Blast of the Trumpet
against the Monstrous Regiment of Women is not for times when women
strenuously assert themselves the equals of men. His Historie of the
Reformation in Scotland is too brutally frank and prejudiced to please
any party. "These things we write merrily," he says after detailing with
unmistakable relish the murder of Cardinal Beaton. However impressed, you
cannot formally approve. So much for the sixteenth century. Then in the
eighteenth century we have the interesting figure of John Brown, him of
the Self-Interpreting Bible. It is a library in a volume,
containing history, chronology, geography, exposition and reflections.
Once a great work in pious seceding circles in the north, it is long
antiquated. The author had a varied life, was herd laddie, pedlar,
volunteer in the ‘45, divine, and finally professor in his little sect. He
had the true scholar’s love for learning and a touch of graphic force in:
the way he put his matter, but Biblical criticism advances on lines
undreamed of by him. He died in 1787 and was buried in the churchyard
here, where you can still see his modest tomb. "Here also now rests Jane
Welsh Carlyle, spouse of Thomas Carlyle, Chelsea, London." So runs her
epitaph in the ruined choir, in the same house as it were with John, Duke
of Lauderdale, the "bloody Lauderdale" of the "killing time." Mrs Carlyle
is only known as the wife of her husband. Her letters are brilliant and
remarkable. Perhaps he was the upas tree that destroyed, not the prop that
supported her renown. Her picture of Haddington after years of absence,
her walk in the early morning among its ways and its graves, her words
with one or two of its oldest folk, are touched with rare merit. They are
the best that exist concerning Haddington. This band of three is oddly
made up. As writers its members were unfortunate, but there were more
important things to them in life than letters. Shall we make our trio a
quartet and include Samuel Smiles, who was born here in 1812, eleven years
after Mrs Carlyle, and only died the other day? I fear not. He made more
by the least of his books than his three townsfolk did by all of theirs,
if they made anything at all, which is doubtful. But the rich count as
little in the Republic of Letters as they do in the Kingdom of Heaven.
Here you do not deem Self Help literature at all. Its style is
pedestrian, its thought commonplace, its philosophy cheap and shallow,
hence possibly its success at home and abroad.
I am not yet done with literary memories. About a mile
to the north of the town, in a nook of the Garleton Hills, a fair spot
with fair prospects over hill and dale, and plain and sea, and set amidst
soft rounded gentle hills and clumps of beeches, and stretches of green,
are the scanty ruins of Garleton Castle. It nestles under the shoulder of
the hill, shielded against the wild west or the bitter east wind, a rare
birthplace for a rare poet, old, yet his wit was too keen, his humour too
merry, his note too tuneful for complete oblivion.
"Still is thy name in high account,
And still thy verse has charms,
Sir David Lyndsay of the Mount,
Lord Lyon King-at-arms!"
This is the first of another set of three. A mile or so
to the east of Garleton lies Athelstaneford, and here from 1741 to 1746
Robert Blair was minister. His poem, The Grave, was widely read. It
had the fortune to be illustrated by William Blake. The pleasing
melancholy of its verse still gives it a certain vogue. One poet parson
succeeded another, for John Home got the living after Blair’s death and
held it for two years. He wrote Douglas in that eighteenth-century
English of which Doctor Samuel Johnson and Mr Samuel Pope and a few others
had the trick, though the most is but dust and ashes to our taste. Would
you put Douglas with the most? His own day thought not. In 1756
the piece was produced in Edinburgh and received with wild enthusiasm.
"Whaur’s yer Wullie Shakespeare noo?" bellowed, with bathos truly sublime,
a voice from the gallery. In London the play went just as well, but the
Presbytery would have none of it, and in high dudgeon Home threw up his
kirk and departed south, where all sorts of nice things happened. The
Lothian fields impressed him. "Amazing Bass," the "fertile land," and all
the rest of it adorn his page. He saw them from his study windows on the
few occasions when he attended to his pastoral duties. A choice bit
beginning, "My name is Norval," was a favourite passage for recitation in
Scots schools before the Education Act. Bums was as bathetic on the
subject as the gallery god. "Here Douglas forms wild Shakespeare into
plan." The piece is not unlike the worst of his own work. The judgment of
old Edinburgh and old London is not ours. We prefer Shakespeare as he is,
and Robin takes our hearts not by his efforts in Georgian English but by
certain pieces written in the Scots dialect, not merely for the eighteenth
century but for all after generations of men and women.