Park by Holyrood is about five miles round, and in
Arthur’s Seat rises as high as 822 feet. James V. and Queen Mary enclosed
and improved it, and how grateful you are to them! Most places in
Edinburgh get worse and lose some interest with the advancing years; not
so this favoured spot. Perhaps you regret its old-time trees, but they are
so long gone that their very memory is forgotten. Then of old certain
noble keepers had assumed rights and certainly abused them. One rudely
groped in the very bowels of the mountain for stones wherewith to repair
the London streets, others enclosed and marked portions off for their own
profit, but they were all bought out, and a very well-executed road,
called the Queen’s Drive, was run right round it, and two little lochs—St
Margaret’s, near Holyrood, and Dunsappie, right up on the shoulder of the
hill—were made and you would never guess of yourself that they were
anything but natural. People may say what they like about the charming
solitude before the Drive, but even as it is, on the very Drive itself,
just about Dunsappie Loch, watch when there is no one else in sight and
you would think yourself in some remote Highland glen. A little bit away
from St Margaret’s Loch, and just opposite the Palace, is St Margaret’s
Well. In 1862 this was removed from Restalrig, and an ugly engine-house or
something of the sort now holds its field. The old spring that had
supplied it for centuries dried up, but it is now fed appropriately enough
by the waters of St David’s or the Rood Well. Another well stood on the
south side of Arthur’s Seat, just under the remarkable rocks known as
Samson’s Ribs; this was the Wells o’ Wearie. The very name had a fatal
attraction for the minor Scots poet. His artless and plaintive numbers
flowed copiously but dully. I spare the reader. And then in 1820 they
drove a railway tunnel right by the place, and the poetaster fled in
horror, and perhaps the muse was consoled rather than vexed. The hill,
however, like Prospero’s Island, is full of noises. Look over a chart, see
how crowded the place is with names that echo in your mind. There is
Whinny Hill, on the slope of which, in the summer of 1564, Mary gave a
magnificent banquet in the open air on the marriage of one of her
courtiers, who were always her dear friends and faithful servants.
Probably the extreme Puritans thought eating in the open air a brazen,
graceless and godless proceeding, but there is something pathetic about it
to us who know what succeeded all Mary’s rejoicings. It was three years
after her home-coming from France, and even yet she had not quite grasped
the Scots climate. The city of the rain-cloud and the east wind is no
place for al fresco entertainment, but there are some fine
Edinburgh days, and these the very perfection of weather. Near the exit
from the park at this corner is Muschat’s Cairn, raised to the memory of a
lady murdered hereabouts by her spouse in 1720. The peccant Muschat was
caught and hanged with all possible celerity. You remember in the Heart
of Midlothian how Jeanie Deans meets the escaped smuggler at this
spot, and how Madge Wildfire is made to give warning of the approach of
the officers by strange scraps of songs. Fine scraps indeed, yet the hill
has one of its own, one of the very best things the Scots muse ever did.
"Now Arthur’s Seat shall be my bed,
The sheets shall ne’er be pressed by me;
St Anton’s Well shall be my drink,
Since my true love has forsaken me.
Martinmas wind, when wilt thou blaw,
And shake the green leaves aff the tree?
O gentle death, when wilt thou come?
For of my life I am wearie."
A love-story of Queen Mary’s Court is the facile
tradition, and the learned again will have none of it. A certain Barbara
Erskine, daughter of the Earl of Mar, married to the Earl of Douglas, was
badly treated, and this is her song, or was suggested by her story. Well,
the noble hill has its noble poem at any rate, and others besides the
lady, or even beside the old-time hermit, have sought Arthur’s Seat to
fight all sorts of mental battles with themselves. Reuben Butler went to
the road round the base by the Salisbury Crags the morning after the
Porteous Mob, and Scott himself, and Hume, and all the great, and indeed
all the little men of Edinburgh have walked there in more or less anxious
thought. Young Weir of Hermiston goes to another part of the hill, to wit,
the Hunter’s Bog, after the dispute with his father caused by the
condemnation and hanging of Duncan Jopp. Thus too has been found in the
Park a place where a half-believing Christian has oft faced a
too-sceptical Apollyon, where, in fact, the student has had it out with himself in every
species of difficulty and worry. But to-day he needs must choose his
ground delicately. The horn of the hunter does not sound in the Hunter’s
Bog, but the "petulant pop" of many bullets on many targets is a pest and
a worry, not merely there but over much of the hill. It is a nuisance one
could well wish abated, but unless the marksmen should wing a Royal
Prince, or perhaps a covey of tourists, I fear, I fear! You can walk
safely and commodiously by Salisbury Crags, since a road called Radical
Road was carded round them in 1820. Scott instigated the scheme, to give
work to a populace starving and discontented - hence the name. A line of
trees between Muschat’s Cairn and Holyrood formerly marked the Duke’s
Walk, so called because James VII. and II., when holding that title he
administered Scotland, loved to pace this ground.
Beneath the deep gorge called Windy Goule are
Duddingston Loch and Church and Village. The whole three are yet
wonderfully unspoiled. It is one of the useful functions of crowned heads
and landed gentry to keep such things unspoiled. Duddingston was a great
resort of old-time Edinburgh citizens; it boasts one ancient tavern, "The
Sheep’s Head," to wit, renowned for its preparation of that peculiarly
Scots dish, and the citizen took a daunder on the hill in summer, or threw
the curling stones on the loch in winter, and here he could refresh
himself after his playful toil. The Queen Mary legend is conspicuous by
its absence from "The Sheep’s Head," but tradition reports that her son,
King James VI. "of happy memory," as the Bill of Rights says, was wont to
play skittles here. Rather a humble sort of royal game! The Fortunes of
Nigel were written in vain or you believe him addicted to cock-a-leekie,
and from that to sheep’s head is no great step. King James, we know, loved
to crack a bottle of wine with Jinglin’ Geordie in his booth, hard by St
Giles’ Kirk, and like enough, when wearied with those often troublesome
Edinburgh folk, he was glad of a country excursion to Duddingston. In
front of the village kirk there is a loupin’-stane, to assist the obese
and aged to mount their more or less mettlesome steeds. Of old time, if
you did not walk to the kirk you must ride, for the old Scots roads
scarcely admitted of vehicles, except for show, and hard by, fixed in the
walls, there still remains the jougs—that archaic punishment for the scold
and the slanderer. The Rev. John Thomson, the Scots landscape painter, was
minister here from 1805 to his death in 1840. He is always known as
Thomson of Duddingston. Now the manse garden runs down to the loch, and at
the end of it he built himself a bower, or rather a studio, which he
pleasantly named Edinburgh. As fame increased, so did his visitors, and he
found them a nuisance. Interruption in the composition of a sermon might
pass, but in the composition of a picture! How then to maintain privacy,
avoid offence, and spare the conscience of his servants? These were
instructed to give the invariable answer that he had gone to "Edinburgh,"
and in truth he was at "Edinburgh"! Such at least is to-day the tradition.
Duddingston contains one of those hospitals which are not rare in and
about Edinburgh. It is a plain but pleasant enough building at the corner
of the road to Portobello and Jock’s Lodge. Louis Cauvin, its founder,
made a considerable fortune as a French teacher in Edinburgh. You suspect
some judicious speculation in land. There must have been scope for that in
the early years of last century in this neighbourhood. He left curious
directions as to the walling up of the door of the vault; perhaps he had
the fear of the resurrectionist in his mind, perhaps it was only his
version of Shakespeare’s curse. The hospital was opened in 1833 for the
education of a limited number of children, chiefly the sons of teachers.
The educational authorities have already considerably diverted it from its
original purpose, perhaps wisely, yet scarcely in accord with the wishes
of the founder, scarcely in encouragement of others like minded.
Your modern well-to-do Edinburgh citizen despises
Duddingston and its humble pleasures. But in hard winters, when the loch
is frozen, there is a skating carnival all day, and almost all night, on
the ice. In a letter of 23rd December 1874 R. L. S. touches off the scene:
"Duddingston, our big loch, is bearing, and I wish you could have seen it
this afternoon covered with people, in the driving snow flurries; the big
hill grim and white and Alpine overhead in the thick air, and the road up
the gorge, as it were up into the heart of it, dotted black with traffic."
This is on Monday, and on Tuesday he goes again: "If you had seen the moon
rising, a perfect sphere of smoky gold in the dark air above the trees,
and the white loch thick with skaters, and the great hill snow sprinkled
overhead! It was a sight for a King?’ Here is an evening piece from the
next day: "The little booths that hucksters set up round the edge were
marked each one by its little lamp. There were some fires too, and the
light and the shadows of the people who stood round them to warm
themselves made a strange pattern all round on the snow-covered ice. A few
people with torches began to tread up and down the ice, a lit circle
travelling along with them over the snow. A gigantic moon arose meanwhile
over the Kirk on the promontory, among perturbed and vacillating clouds.
The walk home was very solemn and strange. Once through a broken gorge we
had a glimpse of a little space of mackerel sky, moon-litten on the other
side of the hill, the broken ridges standing grey and spectral between,
and the hill-top over all snow white and strangely magnified in size."
Stevenson was twenty-four when he drew these wonderful pictures. Did not
he lose in ease and force whatever he gained in precision?
Arthur’s Seat is the image of a lion lying at full
length; the likeness is startling from places like Portobello and its
vicinity. You learn with surprise that the idea is quite recent. Have our
eyes changed, it has been asked, or has the landscape? "It is like a
camel," says Maitland in 1750. Why he did not see the lion you don’t know;
possibly the way the ground was divided by hereditary keepers may have
obscured this. The antiquary has some diverting speculations as to the
name, about which popular tradition makes no bones at all. Arthur’s Seat
is from Arthur the British prince; maybe he sleeps under that mighty
crest, with his sword, Excalibur, by his side, until in the fulness of
time he come again. And the rocky cliff to the west, known as Salisbury
Crags, is named after Earl Salisbury, who accompanied Edward III. in his
Scots invasion. I have spoken of the Englishlike names of "Edinburgh" and
"Arthur," and here is "Salisbury?’ Your antiquary despises such
rule-of-thumb solutions. My Lord Hailes and his fellows are all for a
Celtic, or even dark Pictish, word. Their method is this : — They get a
Gaelic synonym for the Hill of Arrows, or something like, and they give it
a good twist one way, and Gaelic spelling is by no means a fixed quantity;
then they give the word Arthur, or Salisbury, or what not, a good twist
the other, and presently you discover a remarkable resemblance between
them. There are no buildings on Arthur’s Seat, and fortunately there
cannot now be. In 1783 a certain Dr James Graham had all but got leave to
plant a house right on the top; perhaps more money, or more power, or more
trying and he had carried his point. In those days Edinburgh was so rich
in situations that it could afford to throw away even the finest. At any
rate it did not much care, but we cannot spare a prospect like this, and
all the power of Royalty guards the hill for us. Except towards
Duddingston and Portobello the place is already thick beset; a few more
years and the solid phalanx of houses will ring it round on every side.
Yes, but they cannot touch it!
Of old time the hill had a dweller, and you still see
his dwelling. Right above St Margaret’s Loch is the ruined Chapel of St
Anthony, and Hermitages of St Anthony, and Well of St Anthony. The chapel
is a mere shell; neglect, and the weather, and perhaps a succession of
petty buffets from Presbyterian iconoclasts, or mere mischief-makers, have
ground it down stone by stone, and even the antiquary knows nothing of its
history, though he guesses it had to do with the foundation of St Anthony
of Leith, and perhaps held a light to guide the mariner on the Firth. The
situation was ideal. You had the key of both worlds. At your feet was the
Palace and the busy capital, and beyond was the Fifth, where the keel was
frequent even in early days, but you had only to turn your back and go a
few steps and you were lost in the silence of the hills. You might go a
long way and meet no one save a wandering shepherd, except it were Beltane
Day, that ancient heathen festival, whereon the young folk of Edinburgh
were wont, as they still are, to climb in the early morning to the summit
of the hill to wash their faces in the May Day dew.
The Calton Hill is 355 feet high. Its south-west side
is abrupt and rocky; in other directions you can descend it. Calton is
plainly a non-Saxon word; it is said to mean the hill covered with bushes,
and of old was called Dow Craig, or the Black Rock. To-day it is gained
with no let or hindrance from Princes Street, but less than 100 years ago,
that is, before the Regent Bridge spanned the deep valley or gorge of Low
Calton, you had to wind, and descend, and climb again ere you could reach
it therefrom. To the stranger it must share with the Castle the place of
pride as landmark. As you pace eastward along Princes Street it is right
in your view, nay, you pass through its very bowels by a railway tunnel to
reach Auld Reekie. It is now quite a creation of the New Town. The odd
jumble of monuments strikes the stranger: the strict classic, and mixed
classic, and wildly Gothic; the old and new, though not the newest
observatory; the Dugald Stuart Monument, the Burns Monument, must not be
detailed, though the little Temple that forms the last is "no that bad,"
as they say in Auld Reekie. You must go to the Canon-gate churchyard to
see the High School at its best. From there, with a sunset effect, it is
most beautiful. The dream of stone on the Thames is a Parliament House;
the magic Egyptian Temple at Brussels is a Palais de Justice; this is only
a school, and only a new school, as far as the building goes, and these
things don’t fire the imagination. No, I think the High School has never
had sufficient justice done to it. Thus seen it is the supreme
architectural effect and glory of modern Edinburgh. There are two
pretentious and costly structures on the Calton about which it is hard,
honestly, to make up one’s mind or purge the soul from prejudice. The
first is the National Monument. When, after Waterloo, the minds of men
were uplifted, it was determined to commemorate the victory by a
great monument—nothing less than to reproduce the Parthenon. The pillars
cost £1000 each, but only twelve were completed. Funds failed and the
thing stuck. It has ever since been a laughing - stock. "Scotland’s pride
and poverty" it was called, but it was not a mere question of money. The
great war was too much connected in people’s minds with a system of
government and dissolute and selfish rulers to excite real national
enthusiasm. It were easy today for many a wealthy Scotsman to complete it;
perhaps it will be, and re-dedicated to something else; but then is it not
better as it is? Is not the look of ruin a distinct advantage? Ah, but the
sham of it all! and that is what imagination boggles at. And what to say
of those feudal towers and stern walls and frowning ramparts that wind
round so much of the Calton Hill and make up the Calton Jail? The
unsophisticated stranger, it is believed, invariably takes it for the
Castle; it looks incredibly ancient, and how to tell its grime is only
railway smoke? It was built between 1791 and 1796, and Robert Adam was the
architect He was a famous man in his time, and to him we owe the Register
House, and the University, and the Adelphi in London, in which latter city
he did well, and finally achieved a Westminster Abbey funeral. The times
of its building were the dark days of our struggle with France, darkened
because all the sympathy was not on one side, and the Edinburgh mob
thought a second Bastile was rising to cow them. But how to think nobly of
a jail, and how to be just when you once took it for a castle? Had it been
some great historic monument restored, perhaps we would all have thought
it very fine indeed. A modern gaol may be tragically horrible, but it is
also dismally comic, and under no possible aspect romantic. And it was
successor to the Heart of Midlothian. The place was not ill-chosen; quite
close to it, between there and the Canongate, stood in pre-railway days
the House of Correction at Paul’s Work, and you can derive it from this,
and not from the more memorable building in the High Street, if you
please. But enough of the Calton of to-day.
The history of the Calton and its Burgh of Barony,
which clustered at the foot, is long. Of old witches danced nightly on its
bare top, and a fairy boy from Leith acted as their drummer. West of the
hill stood the Carmelite Monastery of Greenside. It was afterwards used as
a house for lepers. A gallows reared its gaunt form at the very gate, and
thereon was strung up any inmate who showed his nose out of doors. And on
one part people were burnt for heresy, and on another Sir David Lyndsay’s
pleasant Satyre of the Thrie Estaitis was acted; and again there
were tournaments and joustings and all manner of knightly sports, and down
that steep hillside, on some far-off bright morning, Bothwell dashed his
horse and jumped madly into the lists, to the great admiration of Mary,
who loved bravery above all things. Here, in other years, to wit in 1798,
Rowland Hill preached to 10,000 people and here must end
those desultory memorials. You get tired of hearing places in
Edinburgh vaunted for their view, still, that from the Calton ranks very
high indeed. You see everything from it, except the hill upon which you
stand. No doubt, as R. L. S. observed, that is a considerable loss. It is
most striking at night from the different elevation of the lights, the dim
contours of the town, more than all the great masses of hills that loom in
the darkness. I doubt if Sartor Resartus is much read at present,
but it has some brilliant passages. One of the very best is the
description of the sleeping town in the third chapter of the first book. I
think it is Edinburgh taken from this spot. The Rue Saint Thomas de
I’Enfer (in the seventh chapter of the second book) is Leith Walk.
Carlyle had the same experience there as his hero had in the street with
the evil name, and Leith Walk is close at hand, and Carlyle was here many
a time and oft, and the place fits the picture, and that after all
is the only thing material.