THE Cowgate is, even for Edinburgh, a place of
picturesque contrast. As far as a public street can reveal its story to
the casual wayfarer, you come here on the bedrock of poverty and want. The
shops are of the fried fish, rag-and-bone, "clouted shoon" variety.
Residenters are—God help them !—pulled down by poverty and vice. The
frequent public-house is an agreeable contrast, even though, like an evil
growth, it draws strength from adjacent ruin. Not historic interest, not
the memory of great names, not all the mystery of the past, disguises the
havoc of those dark alleys that open on either side, even though you spell
on the wall, familiar as a household word, the story of the world’s
romance. And of this place Alexander Alesse wrote in 1530: Via vaccarum
in qua habitant patricii et senatores urbis—ubi nihil humile aut rusticum,
sed omnia magnifica. Here was the patrician quarter, its buildings
begun in the fifteenth century, a fashionable suburb just outside the old
city wall of James II., an exclusive quarter. "The palaces of the Cowgate,"
as the folk of Edinburgh called them, were the abode of the best in the
Scots capital. After Flodden it was borne in on those gay folk that their
splendid houses were in danger. It was all very well for the people of a
border village to get off to the hills with their thatched roofs, and
watch with indifference, nay, with a certain ironic amusement, the vain
efforts of the "auld enemy" to inflict tangible harm on the hovels of mud.
But here this same "auld enemy" would have the unwonted and pleasurable
experience of finding something worth the lifting, and so in frantic
haste—the fragments of stone even to-day tell us that—the Flodden
Wall was put together, and My Lord and My Lady breathed again as they sat
in their palace or walked in their terraced garden. I garner a fact here
and there from the history of this famous street. The interest lies in the
past. Unless you are an improvement commissioner, or a City missionary,
you will not linger in to-day’s Cowgate. Not that the present street is
dirtier than ever it was. There is extant a certain ordinance of the
magistrates, temp. 1518—its zenith for honour - anent the "dichting
of the calsey," which gives one "furieusement a passer." The
Cowgate is of small compass. It is less than half a mile long, and runs
between the Grassmarket and the foot of St Mary Street, though beyond that
the South Back of Canongate continues on to Holyrood. It lies at the very
bottom of the valley, and is crossed at a considerable height by George
IV. Bridge and the South Bridge, each carrying a broad and busy roadway. I
think the Cowgate is quieter and more orderly than it was. Thirty years
ago I remember passing one night in a house hard by George IV. or South
Bridge, I forget which. For hours after I went to bed I heard, from the
very bowels of the earth, sounds of more than Morse festivities, deadly
combats and wails of lamentation, as from the depths of some dread
Inferno. But then, and long before and after, the Cowgate was the last
word for all that was most hopeless in all Edinburgh.
Where it leaves the Grassmarket is Candlemaker Row,
running south by the east side of the Greyfriars Churchyard. A few years
ago this row was a choice bit, but here, as elsewhere, all has suffered
change. Once this was the great approach to Edinburgh from the south;
hereabouts were many places of entertainment. In the Palfrey’s Inn, at the
Cowgatehead, it was noted in 1780 that thirty or forty carriers had their
headquarters. The Rab of Dr John Brown’s story put up at the Harrow
Inn here, and Paterson’s Inn was another famous hostelry. If you follow
the Candlemaker Row southward it will lead you into Bristo Street. Here
was the Bristo or Society Port in the Flodden Wall. Society, by the way,
was a little district which is ended in Chambers Street, though a quaint
wee bit survives west of the old College. It was so called from a society
of brewers, dating from 1598. It was once a fashionable quarter. The
projected development of Edinburgh towards the north in the eighteenth
century had many difficulties to meet, and once or twice hung fire, and it
was asked, Why not push south? Therefore were built Brown Square, which
has also gone into Chambers Street, and George Square, which still exists
and still retains its old-world charm though for some occult reason it is
now given over to the dentists. Hard by Bristo Port, just within the wall,
there stood the Darien House, the offices where the Darien scheme had its
practical working out Edinburgh, in a far truer sense than Oxford, is the
"home of lost causes," and none is stranger than this. Who could guess
that this was but the faint vision of what was to be two centuries later?
There is something affecting about the disastrous failure of the premature
attempt to beat the sword into the ploughshare. No fault of the Scot that
it failed! Do you wonder that they raged at English jealousy, that they
hung unfortunate English sailors, that they passed the Act of Security?
Read the pitiful yet heroic story and you will understand. It were vain to
bewail either the lost causes or the lost houses of Edinburgh; if you did
your eye would never be without tears. I suppose the Darien House had to
go with the rest. If any enemies of the scheme survived in after years
they must have thought it appropriate that it ended as a madhouse. In a
sort of annexe thereto, called the Schelles or Cells, died poor Fergusson
the poet. He was but a lad. His undoubted genius never had its fair
chance. The last scene accentuated the sordid tragedy. He perished,
calling in wild frenzy on his mother, whom the harsh regulation of the
house denied at that hour to his embrace. The only pleasant thought is of
that stone in the Canongate Churchyard and Burns’ kindly homage to his
memory. When the Recording Angel weighs and balances the deeds, good and
evil, of the sons of men, that one act of kindness is more than enough to
atone for all the rash and hotheaded pranks of poor Robin.
Bristo Street meets the Potterrow, which runs east of
and makes an angle with it. It is a shabby street now, and there is no
monotonous tale of degraded splendour to tell, for it was never other than
shabby. It has its place in Scots history since here was unearthed, on a
certain day in June 1567, the famous
Casket that held those famous letters. I have no intention of discussing
yet again the authenticity of these documents. If you wish to make up your
mind whether they were Mary’s or no you must fall to study of the works of
Mr T. F. Henderson and Mr Andrew Lang. Hard by Candlemaker Row there once
stood the Horse Wynd, for whose disappearance you must again call Chambers
Street to account. It is a little odd that so great an admirer of Old
Edinburgh as William Chambers should, by his improvement scheme as Lord
Provost, and even after his death, be mixed up with the change of old into
new. Why should he of all men play the child of Babel and raze to its
foundations the city he loved? Because, you believe, he saw that the
claims of the living and of to-day were superior to those of the dead and
yesterday. If it seem hard that here and there some particular house was
not saved, it was because if you began making exceptions there was no end
of them. Horse Wynd, albeit its name, was once a highly fashionable
quarter. To live here was a certificate that you had blue blood in your
veins; but I am not writing another edition of Douglas or any other Scots
Peerage. I will only mention Catharine, Countess of Galloway. She was far
too great a lady to stir out except in her coach, and that must be drawn
by six leaders. As in Old Edinburgh everybody was in literal touch with
everybody else, it happened not seldom that the heads of My Lady’s horses
were at the door of the house she proposed to visit ere My Lady was in her
coach and ready to start. The wits of the time had much to say, in the
Holyrood Ridotto and elsewhere, on the tricks of Lady Galloway, but
My Lady’s coachman was for sure equal to the occasion. There was such a
cracking of whips and prancing of horses, and frenzied running hither and
thither of lackeys, as gave this progress of ten yards all the éclat
of a journey of ten miles. Next you see written up at the end of a
short and dingy alley, "College Wynd," the most famous and interesting
passage in the Cowgate. This was once the Wynd of the Blessed Mary in the
Field, and led to Kirk o’ Field. You remember that as the scene of the
Darnley murder and how the Town’s College was built on the site, and quite
naturally the old name got altered to College Wynd, and though only the
stump of it remains I am thankful for that small mercy. And here Oliver
Goldsmith was in 1752; and here in 1771 the great and good Sir Walter was
born; and up this on Sunday, the 5th August 1773, toiled, or rather
rolled, Dr Samuel Johnson, escorted by James Boswell, Esquire, and the
Very Reverend Principal William Robertson, on his way to view the college.
Lest you think that Chambers Street swallowed up everything, let me add
that Guthrie Street is responsible for much of the Horse Wynd and College
Wynd. And if you ask why they did not retain the old names, the answer is
that the whole place has been so mauled about and muddled that to have
done so would only have made error darker. Dr Guthrie’s memory is
connected with a Cowgate anecdote good in itself and illustrative of the
place. He had climbed to the top of a tall land on some charitable
visitation. Entering the room, he perceived a huge sow, of which the
family were obviously proud. "However did you get that great animal
upstairs?" said the Doctor, panting from his journey. "Ay, but it never
was doon!" was the conclusive reply. Another anecdote, or rather phrase,
is of an earlier day and a higher social scale. Across the street you have
a back view of the huge mass of buildings which now comprises the
Parliament House, and you can try to trace where the Back Stairs led from
the Cowgate up the steep slope. Here on the Cowgate was the Meal Market,
where in 1707 a huge fire burst out. Now, besides the various burnings by
the "auld enemy" already noted, Edinburgh was raked by some terrible
conflagrations. One in 1824 did fearful havoc to the Parliament Close and
all the buildings down to the Tron, so that Salamander Land (where now are
the Police Buildings) was well nigh the sole survivor. The Tron steeple
and bell alike were destroyed. The bell dated from 1673, and was the "wanchancy
thing" cursed by Fergusson. Drinking. quaichs were made from the molten
metal, a transformation that had vastly delighted the poet. I do not know
whether the 1707 fire was a worse business, but according to Forbes of
Culloden, in a letter to his brother preserved in the Culloden Papers,
it was the most terrible he had ever witnessed, "notwithstanding that
I saw London burne." And again "All the pryde of Edinbro is sunk; from the
Cowgate to the High Street all is burnt and hardly one stone is left upon
another." He notes that there were "many rueful spectacles," such as "Corserig,
naked with a child under his oxter, happin’ for his life." How to beat
that for word. picture? The old Scots of an educated man had something
uncanny in its force. The spelling of the future Lord President, however,
requires riddling. The unfortunate referred to was Sir David Hume of
Crossrig (1643-1707), from which place he took his title as one of the
Senators of the College of Justice, and so was a Lord, albeit a paper one.
He had a wooden leg, whence the "happin’." "Naked" means, no doubt, in his
nightdress. An Edinburgh fire must now be a long way distant from the
Cowgate before it renders such spectacle again possible.
Some of the great houses of old times had their root,
so to speak, in the Cowgate, whilst their upper stories were only a little
back from the High Street. Hope House, which gave way to the Edinburgh
Free Library after a life of much the better part of three centuries, was
the most noted. Here dwelt Sir Thomas Hope, King’s Advocate under Charles
I., a strong Presbyterian, a great landowner, and something of the
scholar. The house was plastered all over with curt Latin apothegms, "Tecum
habita," "At hospes humo," and the like, commingling moral emblems
with anagrams on his name. The stock anecdote concerning him is that he
had two sons on the Bench, hence he was allowed to wear his hat whilst
pleading, a right retained by his successors. A ludicrous nickname of King
Jamie’s preserves the memory of another statesman of the period just
before. Where there is now the south pier of George IV. Bridge there once
abode in considerable splendour Tam o’ the Cowgate, King’s Advocate, Lord
President of the Court of Session, and first Earl of Haddington, to give
but a few of his titles. A mass of more or less authentic anecdote has
gathered round this old-time statesman. One evening as he sat over a
bottle of wine, a babel of youthful voices and the bicker of a strenuous
fight surged round his mansion. Tam’s ears were not so old as to have
forgotten what the sounds meant. The lads of the High School and the
College were at deadly blows, and the High School was getting much the
worst of it. But my lord was an old High School boy. He sallied forth in
dressing-gown and slippers, and rather, you fancy, by the majesty of his
port than by the weight of his arm changed the fortunes of the night. The
College faction were driven pell mell from the Grassmarket and fled
through the West Port. Tam secured the yett, returned to his wine,
philosophically reflecting that a night in the fields would be an
excellent sedative for too impetuous youth. One other story. Tam acquired
wealth at a rate that seemed miraculous. ‘Twas said he had found or
discovered the Philosopher’s Stone. You fancy how King James’s mouth
opened and his eyes well nigh started out of his head at this prodigy.
Here was something to stir the mettle of the cutest witch-finder in all
Britain. My Lord did not deny the soft impeachment. There
was a secret, he confessed, but
let King and courtier dine with him and all would be plain. They did dine,
and then Tam with rich humour rolled out a set of the driest and most
commonplace maxims in the copy-book: "Never put off till to-morrow what
you can do to-day!" "Labour conquers all things!" with other masterpieces
of the trite and the obvious. How Solomon’s jaw must have fallen as he
listened! This was in 1617, and it was not till twenty years after that
Tam, with his usual sagacity, took himself away from days of increasing
darkness and evil. Hard to bid good-bye to so many worthy and entertaining
people. The most fascinating remains, for opposite Niddry Street there
once stood the town house of the Bishops of Dunkeld, and here Gawin
Douglas lived in 1515 and you are sure he wrote and read much, though
seven years afterwards he was put to rest in the Savoy Churchyard.
Patria sua exsul, said his epitaph with pathetic simplicity. You
remember the famous mot uttered to Beaton, Archbishop of Glasgow,
who just before the fray of "Clean-the-Causeway," in 1520, in talk with
Douglas, smote his breast, the while protesting his peaceable intent.
"Your conscience clatters," said the poet, with a happy play on the double
meaning of the word in Scots, as the concealed coat of mail rung under the
blow. He is better known, I daresay, by this story than by his admirable
translation of Virgil and the charmingly original prologues, for how few
of us have the key of that long-disused court Scots?
At the foot of St Mary Street, across the way, a tablet
on a commonplace corner house tells you that here was the palace of
Cardinal Beaton. But we are now come to the Cowgate Port, or at least
where that used to be, and though there are curious pickings in this South
Back of Canongate and St John’s Hill and the Pleasance, we leave them
untouched.