PRESBYTERY OF KINCARDINE O'NEIL, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN.
THE REV. AND. WATSON, THE REV. J. WATSON, A. & S., Ministers
I.—Topography and Natural History.
Name, &c.—The name is of Gaelic extraction, and
signifies a "flat or level land." The parish of Tarland is
separated by a burn from Coull, on the south; on the west, it is bounded
by the parish of Logie-Coldstone; on the north, by the parish of
Leochel-Cushny; and on the east, by the parish of Coull to near the end
of the Cromar district. Its length is nearly 4, and its breadth 2 miles.
The church in the annexed parish of Migvie is
situated near the west end of the Cromar district, and is distant
from the parish church of Tarland about three miles westward. The
parish of Migvie is bounded on the south and west, by the parish of
Logie-Coldstone; on the north, by the parishes of Towie and Coldstone;
and on the east, by the parish of Coldstone.
At what period these parishes of Tarland and Migvie
were united cannot be ascertained either from record or tradition.
Public worship is at Migvie church, every third Sunday through the year.
A detached part of the parish of Tarland lies in Strathdon, distant
twelve miles from the parochial church of Tarland, and containing a
population of 191 souls. This part of the parish of Tarland is bounded
on the south by the river Don, three or four miles in extent. It is
about two miles in breadth, and bounded on the west, north,
and east, by the parish of Strathdon. It consists of two
or three hills and glens, said to have been appropriated as
pasture-grounds in the forest of Mar, for the accommodation and benefit
of the Earl of Mar's vassals, who were proprietors of ground in Cromar
and especially in the parish of Tarland, holding of his Lordship as
superior.
In more civilized and modern times, these glens, &c.
were partially cultivated, chiefly along the sides of the Don and Ernan
and were consequently disposed of and purchased by neighbouring
proprietors in Strathdon, who still hold of the Earl of Fife as superior
of these lands; but they always did, and still constitute a part of the
parish of Tarland. In the immediate neighbourhood of this part of
Tarland parish, a missionary, upon the Royal Bounty, is stationed, and
discharges all parochial duties to the Tarland parishioners, with
exception of Church discipline, for which they are amenable to the kirk-session
of Tarland. There is also a detached part of the parish of Migvie, six
miles north-west from the church of Tarland, and three miles north from
Migvie church. This part of Migvie parish is bounded on the south by the
water of Deskrie, which separates it from Coldstone and Towie parishes;
on the west, by Strathdon; on the north, by the river Don; and on the
east, by the parish of Towie. In extent it may be about two miles long
and nearly three broad, and it contains a population of 144 souls. The
minister of Tarland discharges all parochial duties here, when called to
do so; but his reverend and friendly brethren in Strathdon and Towie
kindly save him much trouble and inconvenience.
In that part of the parish of Tarland and Migvie
which is bounded by the Cromar hills, the general temperature of the
atmosphere is mild, varying from 50° to 80° in summer, and from 12° to
25° in winter. Springs flow from the adjoining north hills, which
constitute a part of the parish, and supply the burn of Tarland in the
plain, whose course extends, as before described, until it falls into
the river Dee. In regard to soil, from the flat and low grounds about
the town and burn of Tarland, to the highest part of the cultivated
north hills, there is great variety. In the low grounds along the burn
side from Tarland, for three miles eastward, and a quarter of a mile in
breadth, the soil is generally rich, deep, and fertile. The subsoil
about the village consists mostly of shingle and pure sand, with surface
soil of rich loam, from eight to twelve inches deep.
Along the burn, on both sides eastward, the strata
and beds are various, consisting of rich loam, clay, peat, gravel, with
logs of oak, alder, fir, &c. imbedded six or eight feet deep. The
surface soil consists of various alluvial deposits from two to three
feet deep. As the ground rises, say 10 or 12 feet from the level of the
plain and burn, the soil is various, being, for the most part, of light
and moory surface, with subsoil of shingle and pure sand. prom 10 to 20
feet higher, and approaching the north hills, the soil is generally much
improved, consisting chiefly of rich loam mixed with clay, and the
subsoil solid clay. Along the side of these hills, so far as cultivated,
the soil appears mostly pure clay. The same soil prevails from the one
end of the parish to the other, eastward about four miles, and is very
productive in grain, bear, and oats; and though about a fortnight later
in ripening than the ground in the immediate vicinity of Tarland, it is
less exposed to hoar frost and mildew, and is productive of more
substantial grain of any kind or quality which suits the climate. Dry
solid rocks of white, grey, blue, and sand-coloured granite abound from
one end of the parish to the other, all acknowledged to be of superior
quality; and along the side of these north hills, the soil contains many
clay boulders (boulers), from 20 to 50 feet in circumference, the
surface consisting of wet mossy turf, from 2 to 6 inches deep, then a
stratum of moss, but more frequently of thin white and blue clay, of the
consistence of lime prepared for harling or plaster-work. Plantations in
the parish are very limited, and much wanted. The soil seems congenial
to most sorts of timber, especially common Scotch fir, larch, ash, and
hard-wood of every description. Some enclosures and plantations have
been lately made on moory ground upon the Earl of Aberdeen's property,
which promises to do remarkably well, and will tend much to improve the
climate, and prove beneficial to the tenantry.
II.
— Civil History.
Land-owners.—The chief land-owners in Tarland
and Migvie parishes, within Cromar, are the Earl of Aberdeen, and
Marquis of Huntly; and the proprietors of Invercauld and Finzean. In the
detached part of Tarland parish in Strathdon, and of Migvie on
Deskrieside, the proprietors of New and Edinglassie, of Inverernan, of
Candacraig, and of Freefield, are heritors; in all, eight.
Parochial Registers—Parochial
registers of baptisms and marriages are regularly kept in those
parishes, and have been so since the year 1768. Prior to that period, no
register or regular record of entry exists.
Antiquities.—About half a mile south from the
church of Tar. land, and in the parish of Coull, there is a small hill
or emi-nence, about 150 feet in height above the level of the Tarland
burn; its summit of conical form, about 100 feet in circumference,
consisting of solid rock and beautiful granite. On this summit may be
seen the distinct ruins of a distinguished Druidical temple, containing
two circles formed of large erect stones, at short intervals, from 4 to
5 feet in height, 3 broad, and 2 feet thick. The hill or eminence is
known by the name Tomnaverie, a word of Gaelic extraction, and
said to signify "the hill of truth, or worship, or of justiciary trial."
About 100 feet from this summit westward, are two distinct inclosures,
each about an acre of stony and uncultivated ground, which might have
served for camps, or such accommodating purposes as the assembling
worshippers required. On the east side of the eminence, and about 200
paces from the temple, there is about an acre of cultivated ground which
was formerly enclosed, and is known by the name of the "hangman's yard."
From the centre of the temple, pointing to the north-east, and about one
mile distant, there may be seen the site and ruins of a lesser Druidical
temple, as if intended for more frequent and ordinary worship. From the
same centre, at the same distance, and pointing to the north, are to be
seen the ruins of another Druidical temple: and from the same centre, at
the same distance, and pointing to the north-west, and upon the boundary
which separates Tarland from Coldstone parish, maybe seen the ruins of
another Druidical temple,—all three uniform in size, and equidistant
from the larger temple upon Tomnaverie. On the north-west point of the
eminence, and close by the large temple, are to be seen evident traces
of strong fire, which has shattered the solid rock several feet deep. It
may be worthy of remark that, in the immediate neighbourhood of the
lesser temple alluded to in the north-east,.there was lately found in
the cultivated soil, a small stone of very hard texture, about 3 inches
long, and 2 thick, tapering at one end, and, though quite smooth,
altogether of rugged-like surface: the other end, impressed with two
distinct circles; beautifully polished, and in high preservation.
About 300 or 400 yards south from the church of
Migvie may be seen, on a small eminence, the ruins of a castle, the
quondam property and residence of the Earl of Mar, and where the feu-duties
of the proprietor of Blelach, in parish of Logie-Coldstone, were
appointed by his charters to be paid annually to the superior. At what
period this castle was reduced to ruins cannot be ascertained. Its site
is now all under green turf; but it might be an object worthy of the
attention of the proprietor, Mr Farquharson of Finzean, to excavate the
ruins, and expose its original plan and dimensions.
III.—Population.
Amount of population in 1801, |
922 |
1811, |
932 |
1821, |
964 |
1831, |
1074 |
1841, |
1093 |
There are no residing heritors in these parishes,
with the exception of the proprietors of Inverernan, Edinglassie, and
Candacraig.
IV.
—Industry.
Agriculture, &c.—The average rent of land in
these parishes may be stated at L. 1, 10s. per acre, with the exception
of the ground adjoining the village of Tarland, which rents at L. 3 per
acre. The spirit of agricultural improvement has shone very
conspicuously throughout the district, for these twenty years past. Lime
and coals are brought from Aberdeen and other places equidistant. The
general duration of leases is nineteen years, and the farm-buildings are
generally substantial and commodious. Tarland is the only market-town in
these parishes, or in the Cromar district. There are seven annual
markets: Breagfair, held at Martinmas; Yule market, in January;
horse-market in March; Rood-fair, at Whitsunday; a market for cows the
week following; Luag fair in July; and Lammas fair in August. A weekly
market was held for many years in the burgh, but has been discontinued
for twenty or thirty years past. To these markets, cattle, horses,
sheep, and such commodities as the country and seasons furnish, are
brought; and much commercial intercourse with the district is thereby
promoted.
V.
—Parochial Economy.
Village.—The village of Tarland is a burgh of
barony, and consists of 68 houses and families. Prior to 1799, four
tenants held the whole village and ground attached (say 150 acres) in
lease from the Earl of Aberdeen, the proprietor; and all other
house-holders in the village were tenants at will, and subject to many
changes and services required by their respective landlords, who held of
the proprietor. This arrangement was found hostile to industrious
improvement and ordinary comfort, and to promote indifference, idleness,
dissipation, and immorality. When new leases were required and granted
in 1799, these lands were surveyed and measured, and every householder
in the village was supplied with his portion of ground, which he held in
lease from the proprietor for nineteen years. This arrangement had the
most desirable effects. The first object with the villagers was to build
comfortable houses, and to put their little patches of ground in
preparation for a regular rotation of crops. Such laudable exertion in a
few years evinced its happy effects, when each villager might be seen
possessed of his cow and horse, as circumstances required, maintained
through summer and winter, and the family supplied with meal and malt,
butter and cheese, and vegetables equal to their consumpt.
In the village, there is a commodious and
well-frequented inn; 5 alehouses; a daily post and stamp-office; 8 shops
containing grocery, and all other articles generally required for
domestic and agricultural purposes. There is an excellent mill, with
approved machinery, in complete repair, and well managed. A neat and
substantial bridge of one arch, 22 feet span, was built over the burn of
Tarland, and close by the village, seven years ago, and completes the
Communication between Dee and Don-side. From this bridge to the end of
the Cromar district eastward, a distance of three miles, a new and
straight course for the burn was planned and executed twelve years ago,
and has proved of immense advantage to the neighbourhood, by improving
the climate, draining the low grounds along the plain to the end of the
district, and adding not less than 140 acres of superior rich alluvial
soil, which, for time immemorial, had been a tract of green pasture,
consisting of moss, mire, and lake, and generally known by the name of
Bog-more. From the village of Tarland to the city of Aberdeen, a
distance of thirty miles, there was lately made a turnpike road, passing
through the parishes of Coull, Lumphanan, Kincardine O'Neil, and Midmar.
The cross roads, too, are in good repair, and much improved since the
commutation of statute labour.
Ecclesiastical State.—The church of Tarland was
rebuilt in 1762, and is at present in good repair. It contains about 500
sitters, and is well furnished, at the expense of the heritors. The
number of communicants in both parishes within Cromar does not exceed
400. The sacrament is dispensed at Tarland church only. The communicants
from the Strathdon and Deskrieside are generally accommodated at the
churches of Strathdon and Towie, where they find it more convenient to
attend.
The present manse of Tarland was built in 1800, and
is in good repair. The glebe at Tarland is about 4˝
imperial acres, and 3˝ acres at Migvie. The
amount of stipend is L.54, 3s. 5d. Sterling of money, 74 bolls, 3
firlots, 2 pecks, 2 2/3 lippies of bear, and
101 bolls, 1 peck, 1 1/3 lippies of meal,
valued and paid according to the fiars of the year. There are no places
of public worship in these parishes besides the churches of Tarland and
Migvie, the latter of which was rebuilt about sixty-five years ago, and
is at present in good repair. It accommodates between 200 and 300
sitters. Divine worship at the Established Churches is generally well
attended ; and, with the exception of a few Roman Catholics, there are
no Dissenters nor Seceders in these parishes. The average amount of
church collections, including penalties, yearly, may be stated at L.30.
Near the centre of the district of Cromar the church
and manse of Tarland are situated, on a plain, and by the side of a burn
or rivulet formed by the springs and auxiliary streams from the
adjoining hills on the north side.
Education.—The
parochial school at Tarland is the only seminary of learning in these
parishes. The branches of instruction generally taught are, Greek,
Latin, English, arithmetic, writing, book-keeping, and the principles of
geometry and mathematics. The schoolmaster enjoys the legal
accommodation, the minimum salary, and school-fees; which, with other
perquisites, may amount to L.40 annually. The school is well attended:
but an additional school is very much wanted at Migvie. The teacher
participates in the Dick bequest.
The parochial school of Tarland has been supplied
with qualified and successful teachers for a century past, and a
considerable number of young men from the district have been
distinguished for genius and talent in civil, ecclesiastical, and
commercial departments.
Poor.—The poor's funds in these parishes are very
limited, not exceeding L.80 Sterling. There are, at an average, 16
paupers on the roll, but no travelling poor belong to these parishes.
Two unfortunate and destitute poor are now in the Lunatic Asylum of
Aberdeen, and occasion a heavy expense upon these parishes.
Library, &c.—A parish library has been instituted
in the village of Tarland; and a Savings' Bank, (under the patronage of
the Earl of Aboyne,) has been in operation for six years past. It is
intended for the accommodation and advantage of the labouring classes.
It consists of monthly deposits, none exceeding L.10 Sterling; and when
such deposits amount to L.60, the same are to be withdrawn. The stock
now amounts to L.500 Sterling.
August 1842.