PRESBYTERY OF ALFORD, SYNOD
OF ABERDEEN.
THE REV. ROBERT MEIKLEJOHN, MINISTER.
I.—Topography and Natural
History.
Name, Boundaries, &c.—The
original name of this parish was Invernochty, so called from the church
being situated at one period, it is said, at the confluence of the Nochty
and the Don. The etymology of the modern name is sufficiently obvious, and
descriptive of the locality of the parish, which lies chiefly in an
extended strath stretching from the source of the Don down its course,
from west to east, to the influx of the Kindy with that river.
Strathdon is the most
westerly parish in the synod and county of Aberdeen, and conterminous on
the west with Kirkmichael, and the district of that parish now allotted to
the Government church at Tomantoul; on the south, with Glenmuick and
Coldstone; on the east, with Migvie now annexed to Tarland, and Towie; and
on the north, with Glenbucket, Cabrach, and Inveraven. It is about 23
miles in length, and from 3 to 8 in breadth.
The parish is extremely
irregular in its figure, both from the mountainous nature of the country,
and from being intersected by other parishes. A portion of Tarland parish,
4 miles long and 2 broad, containing a population of 231, is situated in
the very centre of it. At the junction of the Bucket with the Don,
Glenbucket intersects Strathdon for about three-quarters of a mile; and
where the Deskry falls into the Don, Migvie juts in, scarcely three miles
from the church.
Topographical
Appearances.—The appearance of the surface of this parish is singularly
diversified, and, at many points, of great beauty—now presenting all the
luxuriance of a fertile strath, and again all the wild and rugged scenery
of the Highlands. One feature of beauty is the river Don winding prettily
through the main strath. Along its banks, there is a considerable extent
of arable land, including some fine haughs subdivided into well cultivated
fields; while, in the lower half at least of the parish, the sides of the
hills are covered with thriving plantations. Farther up, the scenery is of
a different, but not less beautiful character. The strath becomes
narrower, the mountains rise up precipitously, and on their sides,
reaching almost to the river, here and there are clumps of coppice-woods,
composed chiefly of birch, interspersed occasionally with pines and
aspens, which are in fine contrast; and in spring and autumn the whole is
beautifully tinged with shades of almost every varied hue. The highest
district consists almost entirely of moorland and mountain, and is of a
bleak and barren appearance, particularly toward the source of the Don.
Besides the strath of the Don, there are five
or six glens, wild and sequestered, indeed, but not destitute of beauty
and interest, which generally lie nearly at right angles to the main
strath, bending towards the west at the upper end. Except in Glenkindy,
the lower part of Glenernan, and the plantations of Auchernach in
Glennochty, there is little or no wood in them, unless it be some detached
hushes (clumps) of natural birch; yet these glens, in the stillness of a
summer afternoon, with the clear streams flowing through the soft green
glades, and the mountains rising abruptly on either side covered to the
top with long thick heath in full bloom, afford a richness of beauty
rising almost to grandeur.
Situated in, or in a branch of, the Grampians,
the glens just mentioned are separated by masses of mountains, many of
which are of considerable altitude ; yet there is little either in their
conformation or character that requires particular notice. The most
remarkable mountain, which, although not actually in the parish, lies
contiguous to the southern boundary, is Morven, 2880 feet (according to Dr
S. Keith) above the level of the sea. The principal mountains in the
parish are Scroulach, 2700 feet, resting towards the west on the Glaschill,
over which the old military line of road passes from the south, by
Corgarff Castle to Fort George. Cairnmore, and Ben-Newe, each 1800 feet;
and Lonach, [Lonach is the slogan or watch-word of the Strathdon men. On
the summit of this hill, a large cairn was erected, in 1823, by the
tenantry in honour of Sir Charles Forbes's elevation to a Baronetcy, with
an inscription.] 1200 feet. There is also worthy of notice a mountain
named the Green- hill, so called from the absence of heath, and the north
and south-east side being partially covered with verdure. It is composed
of serpentine. A quarry has recently been opened on the north side, from
which large masses are with little difficulty extracted. It is easily
dressed for building purposes, and looks well in coursed ruble-work when
newly built, but, after long exposure to the weather, it assumes a dingy
grey appearance. Any attempts that have been made to employ it for finer
purposes have not been attended with success, as it is too soft to admit
of a very high polish. On the south-west of the hill, the serpentine crops
out in masses of considerable height, having, at a distance, the
appearance of the ruins of old castles. On the western extremity, asbestos
is found in abundance, lying on the surface of the different eminences.
Upon the whole, the mountains of this parish are much inferior in
picturesque effect and rugged outline to the sister district of the head
of the Dee.
Meteorology.— No regular account has ever been kept, so far as is known,
of the meteorology of this district; but it may be mentioned that the
highest temperature, indicated by the thermometer within the observation
of the writer, during the last seven years, was 83º Fahrenheit in the
shade, on the 7th July 1833, and he has been informed, on unquestionable
authority, that in 1826, at Auchernach, it stood at 90° in the shade. On
the 14th February {1838), at 8 o'clock p. m., it stood at 8° below zero,
or 40° below the freezing point. *
* The writer has not a self-registering
thermometer, and may not have observed the lowest degree of temperature
that occurred during this very severe storm. It is unnecessary to give the
temperature of every day, but it is worthy of notice that the thermometer
did not average higher titan 24° at 8 o'clock a. m. from the 15th January
to the end of February. The following are some of the more excessive
degrees of cold that were remarked, viz.:—
No storm of such severity has been known since
1814, as that in the beginning of the year 1833, which continued from the
8th of January, with only partial mitigation of rigour, till the 19th of
April. The range of
the barometer is extensive. On the 29th November 1838, it fell to 27.50 ;
and on the 7th January 1839 to 27.20. The highest point reached, that we
have observed, is 30.50, on the 10th April 1839. It is subject to very
rapid depression and elevation, rising or falling sometimes three-fourths,
or a whole inch in twelve or twenty-four hours; and hence it would prove a
fallacious guide to trust, irrespective of contingent circumstances, to
the rising and falling of the barometer as an index of foul and fair
weather. With a strong easterly wind, we often see a sudden start of 5/8
or ¾ of an inch, while a three days' torrent of rain follows. Again, a
sudden fall with a north-west wind often indicates a coming hurricane, as
during the series of remarkable high winds in spring 1837, when the
barometer fell 27 8/10 inches without rain.
The aurora borealis is very common, especially
during the winter months, and of great brilliancy. Twice in the course of
the last five years, a beautiful luminous arch shot athwart the zenith, at
right angles with the magnetic meridian, irradiating the heavens with a
vivid light. Towards the end of 1837, the polar lights assumed a new
appearance: the fitful dancing of the streamers was exchanged for a deep
red glare, resembling the vivid reflection of an extensive moor-burning.
On the 25th of January 1838, when the thermometer stood at 2°, the aurora
was unusually bright, and the hissing sound (about which so many people
are still sceptical) remarkably audible.
Climate, Diseases, &c.— The elevation of the
river Don, (according to the authority already quoted,) at a point about
two miles above the church, and 47 from Aberdeen, is 950 feet above the
level of the sea, while at its source it is stated to be 1740 feet, We,
therefore, necessarily experience a keen atmosphere, but the climate is,
nevertheless, bracing and healthy; so much so, that valetudinarians
frequently come to reside in the strath during the summer months for the
benefit of the pure air, and it is believed the influx would be greatly
increased, were there more convenience of lodging, &c. The climate of the
upper or Corgarff district is distinctly different, and much inferior to
that of what may be termed Strathdon proper. The parish is liable to the
most serious injury from spring and autumnal frosts, especially the
latter; but the Corgarff district, in an aggravated degree, suffers from
this calamity. Few harvests pass in which the crops are not partially
injured, but in many they are entirely ruined. It is true, for the five
years previous to 1836, frosted grain was almost unknown in the parish,
and fond hopes began to be entertained that a beneficial change for the
better had taken place in the seasons, and various sage theories were
propounded satisfactorily to account for the fact. That year, however, the
crop in the upper district was almost totally lost, [It is a feet worth
notice, connected with this subject, that it is a universally received
opinion amongst the inhabitants of this district, founded on accurate
observation, and verified by experience, if the strath escapes frost from
the middle to the end of August, and more particularly about the 20th,
they count upon the crop as safe for the season.] and in the present crop,
(1838,) there is not one boil of safe seed in the parish.
Another evil the Strathdon
farmer has to contend with is the high winds. From the funnel shape of the
strath, the wind (being confined by the mountains on each side) may be
said to blow only in two directions. From the west, varying a point or two
north and south down, and from the east up the strath. The latter,
however, except in spring, is comparatively of rare occurrence, and
generally only lasts three days, bringing continued heavy rain. But by far
the most prevailing wind is from the north-west, which often sweeps down
the valley with tremendous violence, in the more exposed situations
shaking the standing corn, so as to leave the straw completely thrashed,
and sometimes actually overturning the stacks that have been led into the
barnyard. Epidemic
distempers are seldom known, and there is no endemical disease. Stone or
gravel is mentioned in the former account as very prevalent. It is now
confined chiefly to one glen, (Nochty). A few years ago there were five or
six cases at one time in that glen. One individual, in 1832, 73 years of
age, went to Liston in Edinburgh, and had three stones the size of a hen's
egg extracted. In a few weeks he returned cured, and at this day retains
perfect health, walking three miles to church every Sabbath, and
discharging his duties as an elder, which he has been in the parish for
upwards of thirty years. Hernia is not uncommon. In several instances
young men are afflicted with it. The former account states that
"consumptions are very rare." There is no reason to believe the parish
less healthy at the present day than forty years ago, but it cannot now be
truly said consumption is rare. In its various forms, with the diseases
resembling and connected with it, not a few fall victims to its ravages.
Of these diseases, unquestionably scrofula is most predominant. One family
in the parish, consisting of a father and four children, have been cut off
by it, and the childless widow is a helpless cripple. There is one decided
case of bronchocele, as distinctly marked as the writer has often
witnessed it on the Cretins in Canton de Vallois in Switzerland. There is,
however, no Cretinism or fatuity in this case. The woman has a numerous
family, but the disease has not hitherto appeared in any of her offspring.
It is a singular circumstance, that the woman lives in the glen already
mentioned as the locality where calculus prevails. It would be an
interesting subject of inquiry, whether or not the common origin of both
diseases might not be traced to some peculiar impregnation of the water in
the glen. Still, on the whole, the quantity of disease is small, unusually
small, when the extreme variations of temperature, already referred to,
and the insufficient protection that the dwellings and clothing of the
poorer classes too often afford against the rigours of winter, are taken
into account. Many of the pa-rishioners have from time to time reached an
extreme old age. About four years ago, one man died in the 103d year of
his age. When the present incumbent became minister of the parish, his
session consisted of six elders, the youngest of whom was about 70. Not
many years since, nine Forbeses, born within the sound of the kirk bell,
met at Bellabeg, whose united ages were 750 years.
Hydrography.—In a parish possessing so much of
mountainous character there are, of course, innumerable springs, the mean
temperature of which has not been ascertained with sufficient accuracy to
warrant a statement being given. With one or two exceptions, none of them
merit particular notice. In Corgarff there is one remarkable for its
copiousness. During the whole year, it discharges a volume of water
sufficient to turn a mill wheel. The burn of Loinhcirie is entirely
supplied by it. Its size, accordingly, is nearly the same at its source as
when, after its course through its little glen, it joins the Don. At
Glenconry, there is a chalybeate spring, but, so far as is known, it has
never been properly analyzed. There are several others that show
impregnation with iron, but in so slight a degree that particular notice
is unnecessary. The
Don, the second river in the county in point of magnitude, takes its rise
in this parish, on the very confines of the counties of Banff and
Aberdeen, and takes its course from west to east, dividing the parish into
nearly two equal parts. [It is a singular fact, that the source of the Don
has lately been actually turned into the Avon, in order to turn the
neighbouring farmer's mill-wheel.] It runs nearly two miles through peat
moss before it assumes the appearance of an ordinary burn. Then, augmented
by the Vannich and other mountain-streams, it continues its course about
ten miles, without attaining any considerable magnitude, till it receives
the tributaries of the lower district. The most considerable of these are
the Conry, the Ernan, the Carvy, the Nochty, the Deskry, the Bucket at the
intersection of Glenbucket already noticed, and the Kindy, the eastern
boundary of the parish, all which take their rise in the glens of their
respective names. [In a curious old poem entitled "Don," printed in
London, 1655, the tributaries of the Don in this parish are described.] At
the manse the Don is about 70 feet wide, and is of very considerable
velocity. The Don, as well as the lesser streams, is here justly held in
high repute for angling, few places perhaps in Scotland affording better
rod-fishing. The trouts are not large in general, perhaps not averaging
three-fourths of a pound; although instances are occasionally met with
reaching three, four, and even sometimes five pounds. A few salmon every
season find their way up, but the number is so small, that it is only in
trouting that the angler can find amusement.
Rising in the mountains, and receiving so many
mountain tributaries, the Don often " comes down" with amazing rapidity.
The most destructive inundation in the memory of man, was in 1829. The
keystone of the arch of Pooldhulie bridge is 25 feet above the river, and
on that occasion the water, it is said, reached within a few feet of it.
Much is now doing in the way of making . embankments, to guard against the
devastation of the more ordinary floods. They have been more frequent
since 1829, which is believed to be occasioned by the shiftings that then
took place in the channel of the river. [Two or three years ago the
proprietors of machinery on the Don contemplated building three extensive
reservoirs in this parish, for a constant and regular supply of water; one
on the head of the Don, a second on the Nochty, and a third on the Deskry.
Surveys were made, and, it is said, L.30,000 was to be expended. Whether I
the idea is now abandoned the writer cannot tell.]
Geology, &c.—The prevailing rock in this
parish, and particularly along the line of the Don, is sienite, generally
of a granitic appearance. It is composed of white felspar and hornblende.
These minerals are oftentimes in pretty large crystals; and in veins the
hornblende is to be found in large crystallized masses. Veins or beds of
compact felspar are found in this sienite. Garnets also occur in some
places. The most remarkable vein, however, by which this rock is
traversed, is one of graphite, about four feet wide. This graphite is
intimately mixed with dark-green chlorite, which may be partly separated
from it by rubbing in a mortar, diffusing the powder in water, and
allowing subsidence to take place. The difference in specific gravity, and
the scaly form of the chlorite, cause the powders to arrange themselves in
two distinct layers. The graphite is not compact, but like soft clay,
probably from this intermixture of chlorite. The rock on each side of the
vein is in a very shattered state, and has assumed a schistaceous
appearance.
On the north-west of the Don, there is a great
ridge of serpentine rock, having in it small disseminated crystals of
chromate of iron. It is about a mile in breadth adjoining to the sienite;
this is in contact westwards with mica-slate, in which are found beds or
veins of primary limestone. To the mica-slate, clay-slate succeeds, and
lies upon it.
In Glenkindy again, in the lower end of the
parish, there is another great dike, or vein of serpentine, between four
and five miles eastward of the former, and apparently running nearly
parallel to it. It seems scarcely so broad. It is in contact with graphic
granite, which probably is connected with the sienite in its vicinity. A
red granite is found in abundance on the other side of the hill, which
certainly conjoins with the sienite, although its junction has not been
laid open.
In this serpentine of Glenkindy, there is at
one point a considerable deposit of bright green, scaly chlorite, and
immediately below, masses of compact white chlorite of a beautiful
appearance.
In the line of the first mentioned serpentine
dike at Corgarff, in the south-west end of the parish, the serpentine and
limestone intermixing form a marble exactly similar to the Glentilt. And
it is deserving of notice, that the serpentine at Portsoy has connected
with it the Glentilt marble and the graphic granite. The Portsoy vein or
dike has been traced in a direct line towards Corgarff for thirty miles,
and at about twenty miles from Portsoy, it seemingly divides into two
dikes, which, at the distance of thirty miles, are at about five miles
from each other, just as in this parish, as above stated. What seems
further to prove the identity of the Portsoy, Corgarff, and Glentilt vein,
or at least to call for investigation, is that, if a ruler be laid on the
map of Scotland, (in the maps of the Society for the Diffusion of Useful
Knowledge,) on Portsoy and Corgarff, Glentilt will be found within less
than four miles of the line. The graphite vein in this parish also points
to the identity of the Portsoy serpentine, and the dikes of that mineral
here; as graphite is found in several localities along the directly
traceable course of the Portsoy serpentine dike. [For the above notice,
the writer is chiefly indebted to his friend, a learned pro-lessor, who
declines allowing his name to be given.]
It may only be further noticed on this head,
that the distinctive peculiarity of appearance of this section of the
Grampians is the covering of gravel and debris which rests on the sides of
the hills, and generally forms the bed of the Don. The gravel varies from
a few inches in depth to upwards of 100 feet, with occasionally interposed
strata of sand, and assumes the form of terraces and low truncated hills
in some localities, as at the mouth of the Nochty, in the vicinity of
Pooldhulie bridge, and in Glencarvy. These have been formed by the action
of water. Nearly half a mile below the junction of the Nochty with the
Don, there is a ridge of sienite, traversed by a vertical dike of felspar
porphyry, which runs right across the valley. At Pooldhulie there is
another similar. Previous to the disruption of these dikes, the waters
must have been collected in vast lakes, in which deposition of the washed
down sand and gravel would take place. As these dikes gave way, the waters
would cut for themselves passages through the deposited gravel, and hence
occur those terraces, tablelands, and low truncated hills.
Soil.—The prevailing soil in the arable part
of the parish is a good loam of considerable depth. In the haughs, being
alluvial, sections of gravelly loam occur, and traces of former beds of
the river are distinctly marked. The loam is generally superincumbent on
gravel, a crust, technically termed a pan, in many places intervening, so
hard and impervious, that it requires laborious pick-work to penetrate it.
After it is cut through, gravel or sand and sometimes sandy clay succeeds,
which generally yields to the spade. This description of the subsoil will
show the urgency of drainage to carry off the surface water. An
improvement which is yearly being more attended to.
There are some peculiarities with regard to
the soil worth notice. It is invariably deeper on the north than on the
south side of the hill or mountain, and by consequence the north lying
farms are generally supposed to be the best in respect of soil, although
the advantage is counterbalanced by deficiency in point of climate. Again,
the best quality of soil is not found in the haughs, but on the sides of
the hills, and the higher up, as far as cultivation can be carried, the
soil is said to improve. This is markedly exhibited on the farms on the
right side of the Nochty. But on the very tops of several of the hills
good soil is found, and in many instances where they are now covered with
heath, traces of the plough can still be seen, although the exposed
situation, and the risk of the crop not ripening, probably led to the
abandonment of their cultivation. Still, the more elevated fields on the
hill side often escape the August frosts, that are so destructive to the
crops on the margin of the river and rivulets. Last season every potato
field on the banks of the Don was ruined early in autumn, while those at
the very head of the glens escaped without injury. This may be partly
accounted for by the vicinity of the water, but the visitations of this
scourge are involved in much obscurity. Some farms, apparently in every
respect as favourably situated as their neighbours, are proverbially
"frosty places." Nay, sometimes one field on the same farm and with the
same exposure, is more liable to be affected with frost than another only
separated from it by a fence.
Connected with the soil, it may be stated as a
fact, probably of some interest in a geological point of view, that the
peat mosses are all situated on the tops of the hills,—many of them of
vast extent and very great depth. The peats taken from the different
mosses are as various in point of quality and value, as the coals from
different seams in a coal country. Some of them supply a rich black peat,
which, when properly dried, becomes almost as hard as coal, and makes
excellent fuel burning with brightness, and throwing out a very strong
heat. In Corgarff and Glen-Nochty moss-fir is found. It was, and not at
all rarely still is, the practice for some of the poorer classes, who
cannot afford other light, to go to the moss, and with a long probe
something like a rude auger, search for trunks of trees buried perhaps six
or eight feet deep. These, often of a diameter of 12 or 13 inches, are dug
up, carried home, and cut into splits. Then being dried on the kilchan, or
on a kind of round brander with spiral bars, they are made use of in place
of candles, thus illustrating the passage in Ovid,
"Flammifera pinus manibus succendit ab Ætna."
A good piece emits a strong resinous smell,
and when lighted, the rosin boils out at the root of the flame like a
torch. In provincial language they are termed candle, or fir-candle, in
contradistinction to a tallow-candle, which is denominated "white candle."
Zoology.—This parish, comprising extensive
woods, mountain, and moorland, affords a great variety of animals, some of
the common to the Lowlands, and others only met with in the High-lands:
rather a full account, although without pretension to minuteness, of its
zoology, may therefore be permitted.
Among the quadrupeds we have the red-deer, (Cervus
Elaphus,) formerly only visitors in their passage between the forest of
Braemar and Glenfiddich, but now located in our woods all the year,
although there is not as yet more than one well authenticated instance of
their breeding here. The roe-deer (C. capreolus) are very numerous; as
many as thirteen have been killed in a day. The hare; the alpine (L.
var.); and the rabbit are found in abundance, although it is only about
twenty years since they last appeared. The black-legged or hill fox (
Vulpes vulgaris, var.) only is found. Serious injury is sustained by the
sheep-farmer from its depredations amongst the lambs. Those who possess
considerable flocks pay so much per annum to a fox-hunter for destroying
these creatures. He, at certain seasons, comes with a motley pack,
composed of a few couples of old fox hounds, greyhounds, lurchers, and
terriers, which are turned into the woods, and the passes being guarded by
men with guns, five or six are often destroyed in a day. The wild cat (Felis
catus sylvestris) is met with, but is rare. A remarkable specimen, killed
in winter 1835-36, measured 12 inches round the head, 3 feet 9 inches
including the tail in length, and weighed about 15 lbs. Five martins (Martes
fa-gorum,) were killed some years ago in one season, in Glenernan; the
polecat (Mustela putorius,) and the weasel (M. vulg.,) are very common;
the stoat or ermine, (M. erminea,) less so. An opinion prevails that, when
the stoats are numerous, it is the index of a severe season. They were
unusually abundant in the beginning of the winter 1838; the remark was
often made, and the prediction fully realized. The otter (Lutra vul.) is
not un-frequently met with on the banks of the Don. The water-rat (Arvicola
aquatica) inhabits the banks of the Don and the Carvy. The badger (Meles
Taxus) has been killed at Coilnabechan, and in the woods of Newe, but is
now believed to be extinct. The hedgehog (Erinaceus Europ.) was unknown
ten or fifteen years ago, but is now common. The brown rat (Mus decumanus,)
has not hitherto obtained a footing with us. Some years ago, a solitary
specimen was killed at Edinglassie, but the presumption is, it had been
imported with luggage from London, or from on board ship. The black rat
(M. Rattus) is, however, numerous. It is well known, that wherever the
brown appears, the black is extirpated. The latter is destructive enough
in the house and offices of the farmer; but it is a singular fact, he does
not, like the brown, infest the stacks in the corn-yard. The farmers here
are, indeed, incredulous respecting the depredations of rats in stacks.
The shrew (Sorex araneus) is common; {S. fodiens) more rare. The mole is
abundantly common. The common or short-eared bat (Vespertilio murinus) is
seen, but not very numerous. Before concluding the Mammalia, it may be
worth mentioning, that, about ten years ago, Sir Charles Forbes sent two
varieties of the Zebu (Bos Indicus) to Edinglassie. The first were
extremely diminutive, appeared to suffer much from the severity of the
climate, and did not breed. The other was a larger variety, and bred
readily with the common bull of the country. Two half-bred bulls were kept
that grew to great size and weight. They became so furious that it was
found necessary to destroy them. Both these and the next generation
retained the distinctive hump, or excrescence, on the shoulders, A good
many of their progeny were to be met with five or six years ago, but they
were invariably rejected by the cattle-dealer, and hence unprofitable to
the farmer.
Two kangaroos were also sent. They seemed to
experience no inconvenience from the rigour of the climate, and fed
readily on grass and vegetables in summer, and on hay with occasional
green food in winter. Unfortunately they were both of the same sex. It
would have been interesting to have ascertained whether they had been so
far naturalized as to have bred in the head of Aberdeenshire.
Birds.—There is, in the slocks of Glencarvy,
an old eyrie, but no eagle has occupied it for many years. It would
appear, however, eagles had formerly been much more numerous, as pits are
still pointed out in the hills that were made for the purpose of
destroying them. Two different species are said still to be seen on the
north-west extremity of the parish. Hawks of different species are
numerous. The buzzard (F. Buteo) is very common. The kite (Milvus vulgaris)
[Sir Charles Forbes's keeper reports having frequently seen the goshawk
(F-Palumbarius) in Glenernan. A fine specimen was shot this winter in a
neighbouring parish, and is now in the possession of Lord Aberdeen's
keeper at Deskry Lodge.] is more rare. The hen-harrier (Circus cyaneus,
here called blue-sleeves,) breeds in the parish. The sparrow-hawk (F.
nisus) is very common. The kestril's nest (F.Tinnunculus) was found last
season; and the merlin (F. Æsalon) is occasionally seen. The barn-owl (Aluco
fiammeus), the horn-owl (Otus vulgaris), and the tawny-owl (Strix stridula),
are all met with, but are rare. The raven (C. corax) breeds annually in
the slocks of Glencarvy. The carrion-crow (C. cornix); the hood-ed-crow
(C. corone); the magpie (C. pica), and the jack-daw (C. monedula) are very
abundant. It is not many years since the rook (C. frugilegus) became
established in rookeries with us: many attempts (whether wisely or not)
have been made again to banish them, but without success. The jay (C.
glandarius) is not known here. The goat-sucker (Caprimulgus Europæus) is
an occasional visitant for a short time in the midst of summer. The
wood-pigeon is common. The common thrush; the missel-thrush (T. viscivorus);
the blackbird; the ring-ouzel (T. torquatus), and the water-ouzel (Cinclus
aquaticus), all regularly breed here. The fieldfare (T. pilaris), and the
red-wing (T. iliacus) appear in great numbers in the beginning of winter,
but speedily migrate further south. The snow-flake or bunting (Emberiza
nivalis) continues all winter congregated in immense flocks, and when they
descend low down are regarded as the harbingers of severe weather. The
most common permanent small birds are the house-sparrow (Pyrgita domestica);
the yellow-hammer (Emberiza citrinella), and the chaffinch (Fringilla
Cœlebs), two white specimens of which were seen for a considerable time in
Candacraig woods; also the red-breast (Sylvia rubecula); the blue titmouse
(Parus cæruleus): the bullfinch (Pyrrhula vul.), and the creeper (Certhia
fam.). The goldfinch (F. carduelis) is not found here. The principal
summer birds are the pied wagtail (Motacilla alba), here called the
seed-bird, which comes regularly, as its local name bears, at seed-time.
The yellow wagtail (M. ftava) is an occasional but rare visitor. The
Motacilla boarula rare. The common wren (Troglodytes vul.), and the
golden-crested wren (Regulus cristatus) both build in this parish. The
wheat-ear, or fallow-chat, provincially called the chackhert (Saxicola
œnanthe), is common. The whin-chat (S. rubetra) rare. The white-throat (Curruca
sylvia), and the whin-sparrow (Accentor modularis) are seen in summer. The
black-cap (Sylvia atricapilla) very rare. The skylark (Alauda arvensis) is
rather rare. The meadow-pipit (Anthus pratensis) common. The swallow (H.
rustica); the sand-martin (H. riparia), and the martin (H. urbica), make
their appearance about the first of May. The swift (Cypselus apus) was
observed here by the writer for the first time last season. The cuckoo
pays his annual visit two or three weeks later than to the south of the
Grampians; but he continues longer, not ceasing his song sometimes till
the first week of August.
Of the game birds may be mentioned the
red-grouse (Lagopus Scot.) [A specimen of the Lagopus Scotlcus was shot
this season with fully half of the plumage pure white.] The hills in this
district are amongst the most celebrated for grouse-shooting, but, it is
said, the number of birds is materially diminished within the last ten or
fifteen years. The blackcock (Tetrao tetrix) is, on the other hand,
supposed to be on the increase. The ptarmigan (T. LagopusJ breeds in
Corgarff, on a hill called the Brown Cow. The partridge (Perdix cinerea)
was abundant, but has suffered much by the storm of last winter. The gray
plover (Charadrius pluvialis) is abundant; and the dotterel's (C.
Morinellus) nest is found in the more sequestered hills. The lapwing (Vanellus
cristatus) appears early in spring. It is here called the teuchat, and the
short storm that often occurs after field labour has commenced is hence
called the teuchat's storm. Numbers of the nests of the lapwing are found
every season. The curlew (Numenius arquata) comes in numbers to breed in
the marshes in the hills. The common snipe (Scolopax gal-linago), and the
jack-snipe (S. gullinula) are abundant. The woodcock (S. rusticola) is an
annual visitant, and in some seasons plentiful. Their nests have several
times been found in the parish. The water-rail (Rallus aquaticus ) has
been killed, but is very rare. The land-rail (R. crex) breeds every
season. The wild duck (Anas boschas) breeds in numbers in the Bunzeach.
The teal-duck (A. crecca) is shot occasionally. The heron (Ar-dea cinerea)
breeds at Edinglassie, where there has been for many years a small
heronry. [A remarkable proof of the distance the heron goes in search of
food was observed here some time ago. Monymusk (by the map published by
the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge) is twenty-five miles
distant from Edinglassie. A heron lost one of its legs in one of the
Edinglassie keeper's traps. A few days afterwards, the heron without a leg
was seen at Monymusk.]
The indigenous reptiles are few, the adder (Coluber
Berus) has been seen in the hills, but is very rare. The Lacerta agilis is
also rarely seen. The Rana temporaria and Bufo vulgaris are common.
Botany.—This parish is not deficient in
variety of vegetable productions. The following will be found a pretty
correct list of the less common plants. The locality of a few of the
Alpine plants mentioned is, however, immediately beyond the western
boundary of the parish, but the close connection with the botany of the
head of Aberdeenshire will be an apology for noticing them here.
Woods and Plantations.—There is no feature in
which the progress of improvement in Strathdon is more distinctly
indicated, within the last half century, than in woods and plantations.
The whole extent of ground covered with wood did not, before then, exceed
200 or 300 acres, whereas there are now nearly 3000 acres of thriving
plantations. Scotch fir and larch are the predominant description of
trees, and to these both soil and climate appear to be most congenial.
Ash, plane, and gean grow also freely; and in the more sheltered
situations, the other kinds of hard-wood thrive. In the more recent
plantations, a much greater proportion of hard-wood plants have been
introduced. One proprietor, several years ago, obtained the Highland
Society's premium for having put in the greatest number in one season.
There are no trees of remarkable dimensions in the parish, but at the
residences of the different proprietors there are large-sized trees of
plane, ash, and elm.
In the management of woods and plantations,
the radical error-has been planting too thick, and the prevailing one is
the neglect of sufficient thinning. [Since the above was written, much has
been done in the way of thinning the plantations.] Many extensive
plantations are almost impenetrable thickets. The superior health and
strength of the exterior trees of these very plantations obviously prove
how injuriously this system operates. The woods of Auchernach are under
very superior management, and although in a less favourable locality with
respect to climate, the progress they make shews the beneficial result of
the proprietor's care and attention.
II.—Civil History.
Historical Events.—Under this head the parish
furnishes nothing of importance, unless the share its people had in the
Rebellions of 1715 and 1745 deserves a passing notice. Although Strathdon
lies in the country of the Forbeses,—a family which the Scottish Jacobites
styled one of the most rebellious in Scotland— like most of the Highlands,
it was deeply involved in the troubles of the times.
There is no traditionary legend to countenance
the supposition that the people were devotedly attached to the Pretender's
cause. On the contrary, the remarkable letter [The original manuscript is
still in the possession of the Inverernan family. It has more than once
appeared in print, and need not be repeated here.] from the Earl of Mar,
who was superior of the whole parish, to "Jock of Inverernan," would
rather prove that it was the tyranny of feudal despotism which forced them
to join the insurgent's ranks. Mar angrily complains; "It's a pretty thing
when all the Highlands of Scotland are rising upon their King and
country's account, that my men should only be refractory;" plainly
intimates to his vassal that "he was in the right not to come with the
hundred men he sent, when he (Mar) expected four times the number," and
sends a message to his tenants, "that if they come not forth with their
best arms, he will send a party immediately to burn what they will miss
taking from them," adding, "they may believe this is not only a threat,
but, by all that's sacred, I will put it in execution."
The aversion of the people to engage in the
cause is further corroborated by the proceedings of the presbytery of
Alford against the Episcopal ministers. The libel against Mr John
Alexander, Episcopal minister of Kildrummy, commences—"his praying
publicly in Braemar for success to the Pretender his arms when the
standard was displayed there," &c. He protested against seven of the
witnesses, "in respect they are habit and repute as of the number of those
rebellious accomplices that were with the late Earl of Mar in arms at
Braemar; and, therefore, till they be purged of the said scandall, cannot
be sustained as habiles testes." "Upon which Maister Thaine, in the name
of the presbytery, re-protested, that the former objection and
protestation was groundless, and no regard should be had thereto; because,
though these persons might have been at Braemar with the late Earl of Mar,
yet it does not follow that they were of the number of his rebellious
accomplices, because it is nottour in the country side that many of the
poor country people were only brought thither upon pretence of hunting,
and when they were there were pressed to go along with the Rebells,
contrary to their inclination, and how soon soever they had an opportunity
of deserting, they came home, thereby testifying their want of inclination
to rebel: and the Government is so conscious of this, that they have never
called any of these people to account for their being in the Rebellion."
The people of Strathdon, however, seem to have been pretty generally
implicated; for Mr Robertson, [Mr Robertson appears to have had a strong
hold of the affections of his people ; and his being forcibly separated
from them by deposition, will account for one of those ebullitions of
violence against his successor at his first introduction, mentioned in the
former account. The whole of his confession before the presbytery is made
with so much naivete, that we extract it from the record of the
presbytery. "Master John Robertson was called and compeared, and being
interrogate upon the several articles of his libell, replyed and confessed
as follows, viz. That during the time of the late Rebellion he prayed for
the Pretender ; but with these limitations, that God would incline his
heart to be a true Protestant; and if it were God's will he would bring
him to the throne who was lawfull heir to our native kings; and if not,
that God would be pleased to incline him to set his heart upon ane
heavenly kingdome. That he prayed God would preserve the Earl of Marr and
his own pa-rochiners from sin and wrath, and every mark of God's
displeasure, and bring them safe home again. That he observed the fast-day
lyhelled, and prayed for the Pretender, the Earl of Marr, and his own
parochiners, and that God would reconcile disagreeing parties. That he did
read the proclamation for the thanksgiving from pulpit, but not observe
the thanksgiving, because his people were out on parties, and therefor he
had non to keep it with him. That he did not pray for King George in the
time of the Rebellion, but prayed for him before and since that time
nomination.''] the Episcopal minister, says in his confession on the
presbytery's libel, "that he did read the proclamation for the
thanksgiving from the pulpit, but did not observe the thanksgiving,
because his people were out on parties, and, therefore, had none to keep
it with him."
In 1745, Gordon of Glenbucket joined the
Pretender with 400 men raised in Strathdon, Glenlivat, &c. The families of
Skellater, Inverernan, and Edinglassie, joined the cause of the Pretender;
but, fortunately, no confiscations, nor even prosecutions by the
Government took place after the insurrection was suppressed.
Eminent Men.—There is no person of particular
eminence, either in literature or science, with whom this parish can claim
connection by birth or residence. There are not wanting, however,
characters of distinguished moral excellence, some of which merit especial
notice in the statistics of this parish.
General John Forbes of Skellater, when a young
man, distinguished himself by resenting the attacks on his country of the
celebrated John Wilkes, contained in the "North Briton," and sought in
vain for a personal rencontre with him. General Forbes married a princess
of the blood-royal of Portugal, and rose to be a field-marshal in the
Portuguese service. He was a distinguished soldier, and acted with great
success against the Spaniards. He accompanied the Royal family to the
Brazils, where he died in 1809.
John Forbes, Esq.— Mr Forbes was born at Bellabeg in September 1743. In
early life he went to Bombay, and engaged in mercantile pursuits. His
talents for business and indomitable probity and virtue speedily laid the
foundation of that distinction which his name afterwards attained in all
the three presidencies. His enlightened views led him to embark in a field
of commercial enterprize of vast magnitude, from which he realized a large
fortune. The mercantile house he established at Bombay became of
distinguished eminence, and still bears his name. Mr Forbes was a quick
discerner of character, and to the deserving proved a stedfast friend and
generous benefactor. From his innate goodness of heart, he took a warm
interest in the young men recommended to his attention, and delighted to
exercise the extensive influence he possessed in forwarding their views.
The paternal counsel he gave at the outset of life, and the benevolent
assistance he afforded by pecuniary advances, are still gratefully
remembered by many now retired upon their fortunes. Mr Forbes repurchased
Newe, the estate of his ancestors, besides other extensive property in
Strathdon, and from that era in reality commenced the improvement of the
country. The whole rental of his estates was laid out in carrying forward
this great object,—but the nature of these improvements will more properly
fall to be noticed afterwards.
But the character of Mr Forbes was
pre-eminently distinguished for a spirit of philanthropy and Christian
charity, founded on genuine and simple piety. His private beneficence,
both in India and at home, was almost unbounded, and his munificent
donations to public charities, amongst others that of L. 10,000 to the
Aberdeen Asylum, and L. 1000 to the Infirmary, are well known. A handsome
monument in Aberdeen to his memory testifies the gratitude of its
inhabitants.
Sir Charles Forbes, Bart.— Mr Forbes died in
1821, and his estates descended to his nephew, Sir Charles Forbes, Bart.
He also in early life went to India, returned to England in 1812, and in
1823 was created a Baronet of the united kingdom. He sat in Parliament for
upwards of twenty years, steadily advocating the cause of the native
Indian, and, although now retired from Parliamentary duty, the energies of
his mind are still untiringly devoted to the amelioration of British
India. Twenty-eight years ago, on leaving India, 'the natives, as a
testimony of respect and affection, presented him with a service of plate
of the value of L. 1500; and in gratitude for the important part he has
taken in exalting their position in society, obtaining their admission to
the offices of justices of the peace, and grand jurors, the natives of
Bombay have subscribed for a statue of him, for which he is now sitting to
Sir Francis Chantrey. Sir Charles claims to represent the Lords Forbes of
Pitsligo as heir-male.
Rev. Dr Forbes.—Another member of this family,
intimately connected with the parish for the greater part of his life,
well merits notice. Dr Forbes, the immediate predecessor of the writer,
was for twenty-five years minister of Strathdon. Although very early in
life called to the discharge of the ministerial office, he zealously
performed its duties, and, under the Divine blessing, his labours were
attended with eminent success. No man could be more devoted to the best
interests of his people, and none ever more fully enjoyed their confidence
and affection.
Dr Forbes died suddenly of an affection of the
heart in 1834. No event ever caused a stronger sensation in Strathdon,—deep
grief reigned in every cottage, and his memory is still affectionately
cherished by the people, as their best and kindest friend.
Land-owners.—The landed proprietors are, Sir
Charles Forbes, Bart. of Newe and Edinglassie; Major-General Sir Alexander
Leith, K. C. B. of Freefield and Glenkindy; Robert Anderson, Esq. of
Candacraig; the Earl of Fife; Mrs Forbes of Inverernan; General Forbes of
Dunotar and Auchernach; and Robert Farquharson, Esq. of Allargue.
Parochial Registers.—The parochial register of
births and marriages from 1674 to 1710 is carefully filled up, but the
volume is in very bad condition. [The following quaint entries occur. "Anno
1666, September 22; William El-phinstone of Bellabeg (his first wife Jean
Johnstone, a discreet, modest, and virtuous gentlewoman being dead, the
twenty day of October last bye-past,) gave up his name to be proclaimed
with Isobel Forbes, second lawful daughter to William Forbes of Skellater,
and were married October 1."
"Anno 1705, September 22. Maister John Robertsone, parsone of Invernochtie,
a son baptized by himself called James, wit. James M'Farlan in Brux, and
Maister James Mitchell, schoolmr. who held up the child.]
There are no regular books from that date till
1741, when a register of baptisms commences, but down to 1830, it has been
very irregularly kept. A regular register of baptisms and marriages has
been kept from the year 1830. No register of burials has ever been in the
parish.
Antiquities—Old Castles.—From Kildrummy to the
head of Strathdon there is a regular chain of ruinous castles, and it is a
singular coincidence, that the first four are all placed at equal
intervening distances,—Towie Castle, being about three miles up the Don
from Kildrummy; Glenbucket, three above Towie; and Culquhanny, three miles
higher up than Glenbucket; a mile beyond Culquhanny stands the Doune of
Invernochty; and, lastly, at the head of the strath, the Castle of
Corgarff. The latter three only are in this parish. Tradition says
Culquhanny Castle was built by Forbes of Towie (a cadet of the Putachie
family, who married the heiress of Towie), early in the sixteenth century,
but it was never finished. "The most ancient building still entire," says
the former Account, "is the Castle of Corgarff. It is supposed to have
been built by some of the Earls of Marr for a hunting-seat. During the
feuds between the Gordons and the Forbeses, it was burned down in 1571 by
Adam Gordon of Auchendown or some of his officers, and in it Margaret
Campbell, daughter of Campbell of Calder, then big with child, together
with her children and servants, 27 in number, were cruelly burned to
death. Having been afterwards rebuilt, it was purchased by Government in
1746 from Mr Forbes of Skellater, and for several years thereafter 15 or
20 men were stationed in it." From 1827 to 1831, it was garrisoned by a
captain, subaltern, and 56 men, to support the civil authorities in the
suppression of smuggling.
Doune.—A short way above the confluence of the
Nochty and the Don, there is a very remarkable abruptly conical mound,
about 60 feet in height from the bottom of the ditch; 970 feet in
circumference at the base; and 562 feet at the top. It is of an oval form,
and the flat surface on the top measures about half an acre. It has been
regularly fortified by a moat 16 feet deep and 26 feet wide at the bottom,
which has been supplied with water by the stream Bardock. It has evidently
been one of those gravelly eminences already mentioned, and probably the
cutting of the wet ditch and the more regular formation of the sides is
all that is artificial about it. Its situation and figure pointed it out
as a place on which to erect a stronghold. All around the top, the
foundations of buildings are visible. A small portion of wall on each side
of the gateway to the south is still seen, but it is too dilapidated to
judge of what the thickness had been. At the level of the ground it
measures six feet. There is no account of this remnant of antiquity. Some
vague tradition states that the church originally stood here, which merely
rests on the former name of the parish being Invernochtie. It has been a
place of considerable strength in a remote age. Chalmers mentions traces
of a Roman iter from Deeside, which would point precisely in this
direction. The traces of science in fortification would support the
conjecture, that it might be a Roman fort to preserve the line of
communication across the country; or it may pertain to a later era, and
have been one of those forts erected by the Picts or Britons as a
protection against the incursions of the Danes, and other northern hordes
from the north-west. The former Account mentions "the ruins of buildings
in the neighbourhood." These have been long since obliterated by the
plough.
Eirde Houses.—Five of these interesting
vestiges of antiquity, called Eirde Houses, from being subterranean, have
been discovered in the parish. We have been so often applied to for some
account of them, that a brief description of one is deemed necessary. It
is a singular fact that, both in this parish and in Kildrummy, where they
are still more numerous, they are all of the same shape. The outer
passage, which lies to the south, is circular, and about 8 feet in length.
The exterior chamber is 24 feet long, 6 feet 8 inches high, greatest
breadth across the floor 8 feet 8 inches, while at the roof it is only 6
feet 6 inches. The floor is laid with stones. The foundation, or lowest
course, consists of 22 stones, averaging 3 feet in height, so set up as to
give the largest surface to the inside of the wall, and they all decline
outwards from the perpendicular. Above these are several courses of
smaller stones, so placed that each covers the joint of the under stones,
and inclines a little more inward. The whole wall, on each side, thus
forms the segment of a large vertical circle. On the side walls are laid
nine flat stones, 8 feet 6 inches in length, and 3 feet 8 inches in
breadth, which form the roof. The interstices are jammed full of small
stones, but there is no appearance of any kind of cement having been used,
neither is there any indication on the stones of the hammer having been
employed. On the north side of this chamber is an aperture 15 inches high,
7 inches wide at the bottom, and 10 inches at the top, which communicates
with a small apartment, 5 feet long, and 1 foot broad; the back, cover,
and ends being each a single stone. On the same side, very near the inner
end of the outer apartment, is another opening, 2 feet high, and 1 foot 8
inches wide, and 3 feet above the floor which leads to the inner chamber.
Here is the only angle that occurs,—all the other parts being segments of
circles. The length of this chamber is 16 feet 6 inches, breadth, 6 feet 6
inches, and height, 6 feet, and precisely of the same construction as the
outer. The whole length of the house, including both chambers, is thus 48
feet 6 inches.
Rings and Coins.—In 1822, in digging the
foundation of a dike, on the north side of the hill, opposite to Garchory,
were found two rings and several hundred silver coins. One of the rings is
gold, with a small dark sapphire. A ring precisely similar was discovered
16th July 1829, with other relics, in the coffin of a bishop of Chichester,
in the cathedral of that city. The date of the tomb is a. d. 1146. The
other was a broken iron gilt ring, with a pale sapphire, and is very
similar to many Arabian and Indian rings.
The coins are nearly all of Henry III. of
England. Some of them are of William the Lion of Scotland, and two of them
of King John. A portion of them was divided into halves, and others into
quarters. Those of Henry III. have on the obverse, the King's head,
full-faced and crowned, holding the sceptre with a cross patee: reverse, a
cross with a small cross in each quarter. They all have the names of the
towns where they were coined, and of the mint-masters. Such as simvn on +
cant—(Canterbury.)
The coins of William have the King's head in
profile on the obverse, holding the sceptre with a cross. Reverse, a cross
with a star in each quarter.
Those of King John are stamped with a triangle
on both sides. The effigy on the obverse is within the triangle. They are
much defaced.
Modern Buildings.—The house of Newe is a
handsome modern edifice, built in 1831, of Kildrummy freestone—Mr Simpson,
architect. The style is a happy combination of the manor-house of James
I.'s time, and the Henusk. The skill of the architect has been ingeniously
exercised in adapting the old house, (which was to be preserved) to part
of the plan, without at all interfering with the elegant suite of rooms on
the principal floor. The portico, the vestibule, and the corridor, which
are lighted: with stained glass, are very successful efforts of
architectural genius.
The house of Candacraig is a mixture of the
Elizabethan and Scotch manor-house—Mr Smith, architect. Built in 1835, of
granite, chiefly taken from a quarry which was fortunately discovered by
the contractor on the property, and in the immediate neighbourhood of the
house. The accommodations are worthy of Mr Smith's well known skill in
combining comfort and elegance. The furniture and interior finishings by
the present proprietor are much admired.
The mansion of Inverernan received extensive
additions and alterations some years ago. The style is that of a modern
villa, partaking of the Italian. The accommodations are ample. The house
of Auchernach was built in 1809, and for many years was the best in the
country. Glenkindy, Edinglassie, Bellabeg, and Skellater are of an older
date.
In 1834, a new church, manse, and offices were
built at the expense of Sir Charles Forbes, Bart. for the mission of
Corgarff. The plans were given by Mr Daniel. The church is a very neat
structure. The manse consists of six rooms, kitchen, and other
conveniences, and the offices are equal if not superior to those of most
parish ministers. Sir Charles likewise built, in 1832, an excellent school
and dwelling-house for the teacher at Corgarff. A new parochial school, on
the most approved modern plan, calculated for 120 scholars, (but which
would conveniently contain a third more,) with a suitable dwelling-house
for the schoolmaster, was built in the summer of 1838 by the heritors.
III.—Population.
We have no account of the population of the
parish previous to 1755, but, judging from the registers of births and
marriages at the close of the seventeenth century, which at that period
appear to have been very exactly kept, it had been much more populous than
in recent times, the entries in any year then being greatly more numerous
than now.
The following is a statement of the population
at different dates subsequent to 1755:—
The great defalcation of the population in the
present year is obviously attributable to emigration and the enlargement
of farms, also to a failure of the harvest, which induced many young men
and women to seek service, or employment in the south.
Habits of the People, Popular Customs, &c.—In
the habits of the people there is an obvious and increasing attention to
comfort and cleanliness. The ordinary dress of the men is of stout
homemade manufacture ; the women wear gowns or wrappers of homespun wincy.
Strangers commonly remark the well-dressed appearance of the congregation
on the Sabbath.
The ordinary food of the peasantry is oatmeal,
vegetables, and the produce of the dairy. Fortunately for morality and
good order, the "bothy" system for servants is scarcely known in the
parish. In some cases the men have their meal and milk, which is prepared
in the kitchen.
The people in general are frugal, and, upon
the whole, temperate and industrious. Unhappily, a few individuals are
habitually addicted to the use of ardent spirits; but these are the
exceptions; the majority are decidedly sober people. If they have
sometimes been charged with indolence, it will be found that it arises
chiefly from the circumstances in which they are placed. They are capable,
when called into activity, of great and laborious exertion, as well as of
patient endurance under privations.
Their intellectual powers are not, perhaps, in
general, much elevated by reading and education, although, with hardly an
exception, they can all read; but they are endued with great natural
acuteness and sagacity in the management of their own affairs. If in some
instances they are too much disposed to retain a sense of injury, they at
the same time are extremely sensible of, and grateful for kindness and
attention. The influences of pure and undefiled religion are, it is hoped,
being more and more diffused over their minds, one evidence of which is
their habitual and regular attendance on Gospel ordinances.
The favourite pastimes are, prize-shootings
about Christmas, and subscription dances. These are generally made
subservient to charitable purposes. They are set on foot for the relief of
some case of poverty or incidental distress in the neighbourhood; and
thus, at the individual cost of a few pence, a considerable sum is
realized for a needy neighbour. Another charitable practice prevails. When
an extraordinary case of helpless distress occurs, the young men in the
locality assemble together, and, often accompanied with music, go from
house to house, where they receive a donation in kind or money. In this
way a considerable supply is speedily raised in behalf of the object of
their charitable exertions.
There is, indeed, no feature of character that
more peculiarly marks the people than their warm sympathy, humane
attention, and active benevolence to their suffering neighbours: however
straitened their own circumstances may be, the common beggar is never
allowed to pass from the door unrelieved.
Poaching in game prevailed to a considerable extent some years ago. During
the shooting-season, bands of desperate characters still infest the hills;
but they are not connected with the parish. The analogous offence of
moor-burning, however, is still too prevalent. Neither can they be
acquitted altogether of blazing the river. A good many foul fish are thus
annually killed. This is not done secretly as a crime, but openly as a
diversion.
Previous to the alteration in the distillery
laws, this parish was one of the strongholds of smuggling. The inhabitants
of Corgarff, the glens, and not a few in the lower part of the parish,
were professed smugglers. The revenue-officers were set at defiance. To be
engaged in illicit distillation, and to defraud the excise, was neither
looked on as a crime, nor considered as a disgrace. As may be supposed,
such a system of things proved most pernicious, productive of the grossest
demoralization, irreligion, and sin, and destructive of every habit of
regular industry. But a happy change took place. By the vigorous measures
adopted by Government, effectively seconded by the proprietors, this moral
pest was struck at the very root, and speedily became utterly extinct. The
lawless life of the smuggling "bothie" was wholly abandoned, and the
honest labours of agriculture substituted. It is a subject of just
congratulation, to contemplate the industrious spirit, the healthy tone of
moral feeling, and the fixed religious principle that are gradually, under
the blessing of God, acquiring more and more strength over their minds.
IV.—Industry. Agriculture.—The number of acres cultivated and waste cannot
be stated with precision, as several of the properties have not been
surveyed. The most accurate approximation the writer has been able to
arrive at is as follows, viz.
Rent of Land.—The gross rental of the parish,
(including the portion of Tarland [This portion of Tarland is so
intermixed with Strathdon, that the writer has not been able to separate
it in attempting to ascertain the real rent. As it is not mentioned in the
Tarland Account, it was thought right to include it here. ] formerly
mentioned,) is, as nearly as can be ascertained, about L.5000. The valued
rent, exclusive of Tarland, is L.3039, 1s. 6d. Scots. The average rent of
arable land may be stated at L. 1, 5s. per Scotch acre; the right of
common pasture in the hills included. The grazing of a full-sized ox may
cost L.2. A sheep pastured on the hill for a year, 2s. 6d.; grazed in an
inclosed field, 5s. 6d.
Wages, &c.—A farm-servant's wages with
victuals, or two pecks of meal per week and a Scotch pint of milk per day,
are from L.10 to L. 14 per annum; a woman servant's vary from L. 4 to L.
5, 10s. according to the kind of work required. The scythe is now almost
entirely employed in cutting down the crop. The farmers engage hands for
the harvest about Lammas. A cutter gets about L. 2, 10s.; a bandster from
L. 2 to L. 2, 5s,; women from L. 1, 10s. to L. 1, 15s. Formerly, thravers
were engaged for harvest at 3d. per thrave without victuals, but the
scythe has now superseded every other method. It is more expeditious, the
crop seasons sooner, and more straw is obtained. One scythe cuts down an
acre and a-quarter per day, with a woman to gather the swathe into
sheaves, and a bandster to bind and stook. A day labourer's wage is from
1s. 6d. to 1s. 9d. in summer, and 1s. to 1s. 4d. in winter. The prices of
articles of country manufacture for rural purposes are, a full-mounted
iron plough, L. 3, 10s.; do. of wood, L. 2, 15s. to L. 3; harrows of
hard-wood, L. 1, 3s.; do. of larch, which is found to answer well, 16s.; a
double close cart, L. 10 to L. 12; a long cart, generally made of Braemar
fir, or larch, and to fit on the axle of the close cart, L. 1 ; a
wheelbarrow, 16s.; a set of horse-shoes, 8s. 4d.; a riding-horse's, with
steeled toes, 3s. 6d.; mason work per rood, materials afforded by the
employer, L. 2 to L. 2, 8s.; do. providing the materials, L. 6 to L. 8; a
carpenter, 12s. per week; dry stone dikes, 3 feet 9 inches high, 4½d. per
yard.
Live-Stock.— The common breed of cattle is the
Aberdeenshire. The polled are, perhaps, at present more in fashion than
the horned. In the upper district and glens, a smaller horned race
prevails, in which there is an intermixture of the Ross-shire and West
Highland breed. Much attention is paid to the breeding and rearing of
black cattle in this parish. The dairy is altogether a secondary
consideration to the rearing of good calves; hence a cow good at the pail
is of less importance than a good breeder, and strong prejudice exists
against the admixture of any south country blood. The late Dr Forbes of
Blelack and Inverernan, with great care and expense, succeeded in raising
a justly celebrated stock, which became widely diffused over the parish.
The enterprize and skill of the Messrs Grassick are successfully employed
in the improvement of this as well as other descriptions of farm stock.
They do not spare expense to procure the best bulls, and keep valuable
cows. The farmers, in general, are superior judges of cattle, and, as the
better classes especially keep well, they find a ready market for their
beasts. Since the London market for fat cattle has been opened up by steam
ships from Aberdeen, a considerable number of beasts are stall-fed in the
parish. One of the gentlemen above-mentioned sold four this winter for L.
105. One of the four was a four year old ox reared on the farm. The
purchaser, after gaining two prizes for them at a fat cattle show, sold
them to advantage in the London market.
The sheep are of the black-faced breed. Some
of the farmers purchase wedder lambs at Lanark lamb fair, which they keep
till three years old. Yearling rams are generally bought there, and
brought north to improve the stock. Few horses are reared in the parish,
except to supply the place of such as are worn out. The number in the
parish in 1835 was 314.
Husbandry.—Within the last twenty years, very
great and rapid progress has been made in agricultural improvement. By
trenching, drainage, &c. many of the tenants have made considerable
additions to the arable land of their farms. The facility in the command
of lime is of material benefit in this respect. Generally each farm has
its own lime-kiln, to which limestone is driven during summer to be burned
the ensuing spring, and laid hot upon the land. Occasionally the old
system is practised of spreading it over the turnip field, and hoeing it
in with the second hoeing of the turnips, but this is rapidly falling into
disuse. It has already been stated, that, upon the principal farms, the
most approved husbandry system has been introduced. It is still, however,
a prevalent error to keep too many beasts; and, in some cases, the old
prejudice exists of considering it waste to give straw for litter. The
economy of expense of labour, compared with what it was forty years ago,
is illustrated by the fact, that, within that period the farm of Buchaam
was worked by 6 ploughs, 18 horses, and 4 yokes of cattle of 10 or 12
each. The present enterprizing tenant works the same farm (with a great
additional extent of arable land which he has reclaimed) in a manner not
to be surpassed, with 3 ploughs, 4 horses, and a pair, or occasionally two
pairs of work oxen.
The rotation followed, and which the terms of
lease commonly stipulate, is the seven-shift, viz. 1. oats; 2. oats; 3.
green crop; 4. bear or bigg; 5. hay; 6. and 7. pasture. No wheat is ever
grown, and very rarely English barley; bear or chester being found much
more suitable for the climate. The favourite oats, and, unquestionably,
the best fitted for the climate, are, the early Angus and Scotch birley.
The soil is well adapted for turnip, of which excellent crops are raised.
A few globes are sown for early consumption, but the principal crop
consists of green and red-top yellow. Swedes grow well, but they have
given place to the red-top yellow turnip, which is found to keep as long
good in spring, and yield a more abundant crop. Few potatoes are raised;
the soil suits them well, but they run great hazard of being ruined by
early frosts.
Leases.—The general duration of leases is
nineteen years. The farm-buildings are generally of a superior
description. The dwelling-houses are comfortable and commodious, and the
offices neat squares of substantial stone and lime, with slated roofs.
There are nine thrashing-mills in the parish driven by water, and one by
horse power. There are four meal-mills, which on an average grind from
1600 to 2000 bolls per annum.
Distance from market, and uncertainty of
climate, are the great obstacles to agricultural improvement. In not a few
instances these evils are aggravated by deficiency of agricultural
capital. It unfortunately happens, such is the desire to possess a farm,
arising perhaps from local attachment, that whenever a place becomes
vacant, an unwise competition takes place, which leads to the offer of
higher rents than prudence can at all times justify.
Quarries.—There are eight or ten quarries of
limestone, which are regularly worked for the supply of the parish, and to
meet a considerable demand from Kildrummy and Towie. The quality of the
lime is excellent, being part of the same great bed of limestone wrought
near Keith and at Ardonald. It is a singular fact, that all the limestone
rocks lie on the north side of the Don, with the exception of one near
Boilhandy. The lime is burned with peats, with the addition of a small
quantity of coals when they can be obtained. A slate quarry was formerly
wrought, but the quality being coarse, it has been long abandoned.
Produce.—The statement of raw produce is given
as taken in the year 1835-36, no year since having been nearly an average
crop. The gross amount, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows:—
Manufactures.—There is not anything deserving the name of a manufactory in
the parish. At the wool-mill of Glenkindy, the average quantity of
blankets and plaiden manufactured per annum is about 2220 yards ; listing
4000 yards; woollen yarn spun 5800 cuts. The number of persons employed is
6.
V.—Parochial Economy.
Market-Town.—The nearest market-town is
Aberdeen, forty-five miles distant; but at Rhynie, eighteen miles distant,
there is weekly an excellent market for butcher-meat. It is to Aberdeen
that all the grain and other produce is driven, and from thence that all
the merchandize, groceries, and coals are brought. There is no village in
the parish, unless nine cottages at Heugh-head may be called one. Means of
Communication.—The means of communication are good. Strathdon has a daily
post. The turnpike road runs through it for eighteen miles, and terminates
in Corgarff. There are also excellent cross roads, most of them made by
the heritors within the last few years, on their different estates. There
are three stone bridges over the Don. The old bridge of Pooldhulie was one
of the two on the whole course of the river that withstood the flood of
1829 uninjured. Luib-bridge was built by Sir Charles Forbes in 1832. There
is an iron bridge, with a span of forty feet, for the turnpike road, over
the Nochty, and seven other stone bridges over different streams in the
parish. A public coach runs to and from Aberdeen on alternate days during
the summer. In the winter months it does not come farther up than Mossat,
twelve miles distant.
Ecclesiastical State.—The church is, upon the
whole, perhaps as conveniently situated as well could be for the lower
district of the parish. In a widely scattered population, such as this,
there must necessarily be many families at too remote a distance for
regular attendance on public worship at the parish church. The distance of
the church from the eastern extremity of the parish is seven miles, and
upwards of fifteen from the western; but the greatest distance of any
dwelling-house from the church is about twelve miles. The church was
rebuilt in 1757, and thirty years ago was ceiled and reseated. The main
fault of it is its inadequacy for the accommodation of the congregation.
It is seated for 504, but the average number of communicants of the united
congregations, for five years previous to 1838, (and they all communicate
at the parish church), is 860. The tenants of each heritor possess a right
of sitting in the division of the church assigned them. All the sittings
are free.
A missionary minister, on the Royal Bounty,
has been stationed at Corgarff for upwards of 100 years. A new church,
manse, and offices, which have already been alluded to, were built in
1835, and cost nearly L.1000. The missionary receives L. 60 per annum, a
croft, and right of pasturage, for so many sheep in the hill. Every
attempt that has been made to obtain the usual grant for dispensing the
sacrament of the Lord's supper at Corgarff, where the accommodations are
now of the most superior description, has hitherto unhappily not been
attended with success. [Since the above was written, the Royal Bounty
Committee have allowed L.3 for this desirable purpose, and the Lord's
Supper was this year (1840) dispensed for the first time.]
Manse, &c.—Very large additions were made, or
rather, it would be more correct to say, a new manse was built in 1831,
while the chief part of the old one (built in 1791) was retained. Having
been completely gutted, it joined well with the new building, and it now
possesses every convenience for a family. An excellent steading of offices
was built at the same time. The glebe is about 1¾ of an acre in extent.
The value may be estimated at L. 2, 12s. 6d. per annum. The stipend is
L.190, 5s. 9 11/12d. money, including L. 20 Scots for grass, and communion
element money: meal, 2 bolls, 3 pecks, 4/5 lippie: bear, 1 boll, 1 firlot,
1 peck, 4/5 lippie, and 634 back-loads of peats, which, by an agreement
between the heritors and minister in 1838, were commuted for half-a-merk
per load.
There is a small Roman Catholic chapel in the
upper district of the parish, in which service is performed once in three
weeks. Ten years ago there were 69 Roman Catholics in the parish. The
whole number is now 23, consisting of 6 families and 9 individuals. There
is one Dissenting family in the parish, which came from Aberdeen some
years ago. The number of Dissenters is 2.
Divine service, both at the parish church and
the missionary chapel, is attended in the most examplary manner. The
number of families attending the Established Church is 283, or all in
parish excepting the 7 above-mentioned. The average number of communicants
has already been stated to be 860, including, of course, those who
communicate from neighbouring parishes.
The average annual amount of church
collections for religious and charitable objects, as ascertained in answer
to the queries of the Church Commissioners, was found to be, for three
years previous to 1835, L.14, 12s. 11d.
Education.—There are seven schools in the
parish, exclusive of a sewing-school taught by a dress-maker; one
parochial; three supported by the Society for the Propagation of Christian
Knowledge ; and three adventure schools taught only in winter. The
branches taught at the parochial school are, reading, writing, arithmetic,
mathematics, English grammar, geography, and Latin when required. The
school is daily opened with prayer. A portion of scripture is read by each
pupil, sufficiently advanced, every day; and prayers, psalms, and portions
of scripture repeated weekly. The general expense of education is, English
reading, 6d. per month; reading and writing, 8d. per month; do. do. with
arithmetic or Latin, 10d. per month. The salary of the parochial teacher
is L, 28 per annum, with an allowance of L.2 in lieu of a garden. The
amount of school-fees is about L. 8. The nominal amount is fully a third
more,—but they are very irregularly paid. The number of pupils may be
stated to be from 65 to 90 in winter, and from 35 to 50 in summer. The
excellent accommodations that have been recently provided have already
been noticed. The present incumbent was appointed in 1803, but for nearly
twenty years has been afflicted by the hand of God, and confined in a
private asylum. An assistant and successor has been appointed. He receives
a very small portion (L. 3) of the salary ; the school-fees, and possesses
the dwelling-house. He also receives a share of the funds under the
management of the Trustees of the Dick Bequest.
The three teachers supported by the Society
for Propagating Christian Knowledge receive L. 15 per annum of salary, and
have the requisite accommodations of a house, croft, and fuel. Each of the
schools is most useful in the locality in which it is placed. In Corgarff
the Roman Catholic children freely attend the Protestant school, read the
Bible, and commit the Assembly's Catechism, and the Psalms to memory.
Friendly Society.—The Lonach Highland and
Friendly Society was instituted fifteen years ago. As its name imports,
its object was twofold, viz. the preservation of the Highland garb, and
the Celtic language; and also the establishment of a Friendly and
Insurance Society for affording weekly allowances to sick members, and
widows, and orphans. At the outset, owing to the imperfect knowledge of
the equitable principles on which such institutions should be founded,
this society was not free from some of the prevalent errors of the time.
The want of proper caution and foresight in the enrolling members, early
caused an undue pressure on the funds. Fortunately its capital was strong,
and it surmounted its difficulties. Aided by the Report of the Highland
Society upon Benefit Societies, it is now conducted on sound principles,
its funds are prosperous, and it proves a most useful association.
Poor and Parochial Funds.—The average number
of individuals permanently on the poor's roll, together with their
families dependent upon them, for the three years prior to 1838, was 79.
The average amount of payments to these during the same years, L. 74, 1s.
4d. The average number of persons that received occasional relief during
that period was 33, and the average amount paid to them, L. 17, 17s. 8d.
The highest ordinary rate to individual paupers on the permanent roll
varies from 6s. to 8s. per month, but this is only to totally helpless or
bed-rid persons.
The average amount of church collections in
the above years, exclusive of the special collections formerly mentioned,
was L. 55, 1s. 8d.; other voluntary contributions, L. 18, 8s. 5d.;
mortcloth dues and interest from funds, L. 32, 16s. 8d. The funds
available for the relief of the poor are the interest of Newe's Legacy of
L. 500, less legacy duty, which is intrusted to the management of the
minister and kirk-session for charitable purposes, whether to the relief
of paupers or others; likewise L. 100, less legacy-duty, bequeathed to the
poor by the late Miss Forbes of Bellabeg; and other smaller sums,
altogether amounting to L. 600, which is lent on interest, At no distant
period, a very strong aversion existed to the reception of parochial
relief. There are still not a few instances to be met with of that
creditable spirit, but, it is to be feared, that honest independence which
rejected the aid of the kirk-box is fast dying away, and but little
feeling of degradation remains at receiving eleemosynary aid.
The writer must not omit to notice here, that
some of the heritors annually, and others from time to time, give liberal
donations in money, meal, or clothing to the poor on their estates.
Fairs.—-There are five fairs or markets held
in the parish during the summer. The principal one is John's Fair, for
cattle, sheep, and horses. Three are small cattle markets, and the
remaining one, Andermas Fair, at the end of harvest, for the sale of meal,
fodder, &c.
Inns and Alehouses.-—There is one inn in the
parish, in which very good accommodation can be had. There are also five
houses licensed to retail spirits. Five or six years ago, besides the inn
above-mentioned, there were no less than eleven tippling houses. The
minister has resolutely refused every application that has ever been made
to him for a certificate to open a spirit-shop, and, by the cordial
co-operation of the heritors, seven have been shut up. It is believed all
the existing houses are as decently and well conducted as places of the
kind can be; but a still further reduction of their number would be of
advantage to the moral welfare of the community.
Fuel.—Peat, as may be conceived, is the common
fuel of the country. Wood, as far as it can be obtained, is also used.
Amongst the better classes, coal only is burned in rooms. English coal
alone is used, brought from Aberdeen. The price, according to the supply
there, varies from 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d., and the carriage is from 5s. to 7s.
per boll.
Miscellaneous Observations.
Few parishes have undergone a greater change
within the last forty years than Strathdon. The vast improvement of the
country, by reclaiming and planting of waste lands; the drainage and
enclosure of fields, and general introduction of the improved system of
husbandry; the opening up of the strath by a turnpike road running through
the centre of the parish; and the formation of good cross-roads, with
stone bridges over the different streams; the elegant and commodious
residences of the proprietors; and the comfortable slated dwelling-houses
and substantial farm-offices of the tenantry, are some of the more obvious
marks of the progress of cultivation.
In the comparative state of the parish since
the former Account was given, there are some remarkable differences. The
real rent was then about L. 1600, now it is between L. 4000 and L. 5000.
The old Account, speaking of improvements, states, "this practice
(carrying out manure in creels) is still continued by almost all the
tenants above the kirk, where two-thirds of the parish as to extent are
situated. In the lower part of it, however, there are now upwards of fifty
carts. One of the gentlemen keeps a carriage." There are at the present
day 309 carts in the parish, and, with one exception, every proprietor
keeps a carriage. On the other hand, the numbers of live-stock are
singularly coincident. Then, there were 8543 sheep,—now there are 8664;
then, there were 2286 cattle,—now there are 2115. The number of horses,
however, was greatly more numerous, being 552, and now only 314. But the
former Account says, "the ploughs are drawn some by 8, some by 10, and
some by 12 cattle; some by cattle and horses before them, and a great many
by horses alone. All the tenants in Corgarff, and some in the other parts
of the parish, yoke four horses abreast." Now, the horses are of a
superior description, do vastly more work than all the formidable array
here described, and, except for subsoil ploughing, there are never more
than two in a plough.
Such are some of the more striking variations
betwixt the present state of the parish and that which existed at the time
of the last Statistical Account; but what its capabilities may be for
still further improvement, or how far the happiness of the productive
classes might be increased, it would not be easy to determine.
April 1838.
Revised and partly re-written April 1839.
Earthquakes.—The writer avails himself of
permission given him, while these sheets are passing through the press, to
notice the interesting phenomenon that occurred in October 1839, of
several distinct shocks of earthquakes. The most remarkable were those on
the 17th and 23d of the month,—the former at ten minutes before three
o'clock a. m., and the latter at twenty minutes past ten p. m. In both
cases a rumbling noise preceded the concussion, which was accompanied with
a tremulous and undulatory motion, somewhat resembling the feeling on
board ship when a wave strikes heavily against the bow of the vessel. The
undulation was so violent, that, in some instances, people were turned
round in their beds; and the concussion so severe, that the doors slammed
violently, and the glasses danced on the table. The concussion was most
distinctly felt in the upper parts of the houses, and universal testimony
concurred in giving the direction from the southwest,—a fact which leads
us to trace the connection of the shocks felt here with those at Comrie
about the same period.
The only other fact necessary to mention is,
that the week previous to the last shock, the weather was dry and
favourable for harvest operations. The barometer had risen to 29.75. On
the 22d there was a heavy rain from the east, which continued during the
23d, (the day of the shock). From that date the weather became completely
broken. The barometer was carefully examined on both occasions, but did
not appear, at the time, to be sensibly affected by either of the shocks.
By a strange anomaly, however, it stood high during the long period of
continued wet weather which followed. It is a remarkable circumstance,
too, that the shock of an earthquake, which was felt here in 1816, (and
which appears to have been much about the same in violence with those of
last year,) was followed by a long track of wet weather, so that in that
year, as in the last, the crop was wholly lost.
December 1840. |