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Presbytery of Aberdeen,
Synod of Aberdeen.
The Rev. John Stirling, Minister
I.—Topography and Natural
History.
Name.—The latter part of
the name of this parish is variously written, Coulter and Culture; in the
oldest register of the parish, it is uniformly rendered Culter. Some think
that this word is a Gaelic compound consisting of Cul, the back,
and tir, the country; i. e., the back country, (the parish being
situated on the north side of the river Dee.) Others account for the name
by what they suppose to have been the original orthography of the parish,
viz. Petri Cultura. When Popery was the established religion,
chapels were erected on the opposite sides of the river, and dedicated to
the respective Saints Mary and Peter. To these saints were consecrated not
only the chapels, but also the nearest wells, the one called St Mary's,
and the other St Peter's well. At a small distance from the church there
is a high steep bank called Peter's Heugh.
Extent and Topographical
Appearances.—From the east, on which it is bounded by the parishes of
Banchory-Devenick and New-hills, this parish extends south-west and west
nearly 7 miles. Between these extreme points, on the western boundary, it
is indented by the parish of Drumoak; so that its mean length does not
much exceed 5 miles. It is in several places nearly 5 miles broad, its
mean breadth, however, does not exceed 4 miles. Its figure is so very
irregular, that it would be difficult to compute its superficial contents.
It is bounded on the south by the river Dee, with the exception of the
small farm of Insch, which lies beyond the river. The surface of the
parish is very rugged and uneven. It is divided by the burns of Leuchar,
Culter, and Murtle, into several distinct parts, and it has numerous
slopes, and hollows, rocky hills, marshy and mossy flats interspersed.
The southern division, with
the exception of a small district of flat haugh, rises in a gentle slope
from the banks of the river, and contains the mansion-houses of Culter,
Murtle, Binghill, Countesswells, and Bieldside, with their respective
grounds, gardens, and woods. The situations of these are most beautiful,
and the exposure excellent. The farms in this district are in a high state
of cultivation. There is almost no waste land. The soil is in general of a
sandy early nature. In some places, there are fields of loam with sandy
subsoil. As we retire
from the river towards the centre and back of the parish, the land becomes
high, hilly, rocky, and exposed, large tracts remain waste, covered with
furze, broom, heath, and moss. Considerable improvements have of late
years been effected, more especially towards the west, on Upper and Nether
Angustown. The soil in this western division still continues of an early,
thin, sandy nature, with a bottom of gravel and rock; but on the northern
back district, it partakes more of moss and clay.
Climate, &c.—The banks of the Dee are noted
for their salubrity of air, and many places on them have of late years
become favourable retreats for invalids during the summer season. In this
parish the variation of climate is considerable. On the banks of the river
the southern exposure, the thin, dry, sandy soil, the shelter afforded by
the numerous enclosures and small plantations,— all combine in giving
effect to the rays of the sun, in rendering the temperature high, the air
most salubrious, and the climate remarkably genial.
In the garden of Murtle, beautifully situated
in a sheltered den, the peach ripens every year in the open air, and the
crops are as early here as in any part of the county.
In the higher and back districts of the
parish, the reverse is the case ; the situation is more bleak, the land in
many places damp and marshy, the temperature low, and the climate
proportionably more unfavourable; the crops are consequently later, the
snow is often deeper, and frost more intense than on the river side.
On the 4th of August 1829, the river Dee
(which is every sea-son subject to great and sudden floods) was flooded to
an extra- ordinary degree. The haughs of Mill-timber and Murtle, in this
parish, (though enclosed by embankments of extent and strength sufficient
for the usual rises of the river,) were covered to the depth of many feet:
the soil and growing crops were seriously damaged, and great quantities of
hay in cocks were floated away. [See Sir Thomas Dick Lauder's Account of
the Moray Floods.]
Geology, Mineralogy, &c.—In many places large projecting rocks, and
immense blocks of irregular, hard, irony stone are to be met with on the
surface. These are considered fit for nothing but for building fences. In
the south-west and west divisions, granite is found, both on the surface
and in quarries. In the latter division, there is a quarry of considerable
extent, from which formerly stones were driven to Aberdeen. This trade is
now discontinued. In
the mosses, the traces and remains of forests are met with Wood,
&c.—Large, tracts of the parish are under wood. The late Colonel Duff of
Culter, and the late Mr Gammel of Countess-wells, planted a great extent
of surface on their respective estates. These plantations are very
thriving, and consist chiefly of the larch and Scotch fir, to which the
soil seems most congenial. Around Culter House there is a cluster of
beech, chestnut, oak, ash, plane, and pine trees,—perhaps the oldest,
largest, and most beautiful that is anywhere to be met with in this or in
any of the neighbouring counties. One of the beeches measures round its
trunk 14 feet, rises between 80 and 90 feet high, and spreads its branches
75 feet. A few of these trees have been lately cut down.
Along the avenue to Countesswells, here is
likewise a double row of remarkably fine old spruce trees. In the garden
of Murtle there is a line of Athenian poplars, and one of Arbor vita
worthy of notice for their unusual size; being planted about thirty-five
years ago. The old and large trees around the mansion-houses are
principally hard-wood : the later and more extensive plantations consist
chiefly of the fir tribes, the former are in general remarkably large; the
latter are very thriving and promising—so it may be concluded that the
soil is well adapted for both.
II.— Civil History.
Parochial Registers.—Regular registers of the
baptisms, marriages, and deaths are kept, the earliest of which commences
in the year 1674.
Proprietors.—The parish is now held by eight proprietors. Formerly about
two-thirds of it belonged to Col. R. W. Duff of Culter. Part of the Culter
estate, called Cantlaw, comprising nearly 1000 acres, is now held by the
heirs of the late Mr Symmers of Cults. The remainder of this estate,
(being still more than a-half of the parish,) belongs now to Mr Robert
Duff, son and heir to the late Colonel R. W. Duff. The estate of
Countesswells, now possessed by Mr Andrew Gammel, contains considerably
more than a-sixth part of the parish. The greatest share of the barony of
Murtle, formerly belonging to the town of Aberdeen, comprised the
remaining sixth part. This property has been divided into several lots or
feus. That part still called Murtle has passed through several hands, and
is now possessed by Mr Thurburn. The lot of Binghill belongs to Captain
Kyle,—that of Bieldside to Mr Corbet, and that of Oldfold to Mr Anderson ;
part of the farm of Miltown of Drum lies in this parish, and belongs to Mr
Irvine of Drum.
Mansion Houses.—The mansion-houses of Culter and Countess-wells are large
and commodious structures. The former is a very old antiquated building;
it has no date upon it, but is believed to; be about 200 years old. The
latter is of more modern architecture. Neither of them is inhabited by the
proprietor. They are both occasionally let to families from Aberdeen. The
house of Countesswells is presently occupied by Mr Hadden.
The mansion-house of Murtle, the residence of
Mr Thurburn, is of modern architecture, and of considerable elegance, in
the Grecian style; it stands on a commanding position, having a delightful
view of the river Dee, the surrounding scenery along its banks, the more
distant Grampians, including Lochnagar, &c.
On the properties of Binghill and Bieldside,
the present proprietors have built neat substantial country seats, at
which they reside.
Antiquities.—The remains of the military work mentioned in the former
Statistical Account of this parish are now almost entirely obliterated; a
small part of the dike and ditch still remains, and forms part of the
fence of an adjoining field. This work is usually called in popular
tradition the Norman dikes. In the former account of the parish, its
erection is attributed to the Danes or to William the Norman; but late
investigations of the work have exploded this idea. [Colonel Shand, who
was intimately acquainted with the fortifications of the Romans north of
the firths, examined this camp in 1801, and came to the conclusion, that
the profiles, and other dimensions of the ditch and ramparts are the same
as those of the camps of Ury battle dikes, and the other camps in
Strathmore.] (See Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol. i. Chap. iv. page 120.)
This work has since been examined by Mr Irvine
of Drum, Captain Henderson of the 29th Regiment, and Professor Stewart,
who agree in thinking it to be a Roman camp. It is of an oblong
rectangular form, 938 yards long, and 543 yards broad, comprehending an
area of 48 Scotch acres. It stood on the north side of the river Dee, on
the south-west corner of the parish, on a high ground of moderate
elevation, opposite to several fords of the river, which, no doubt, it was
intended to cover. It is supposed to have been erected by Lollius Urbicus,
in one of his marches northwards.
In one of the plantations on Binghill, there
is a Druid's tern enclosed with a common stone dike; and near to it there
is large tumulus, which is said to have been once the burying-place of the
family of Drum, a property in a neighbouring parish, where the descendants
of that family now reside.
III.—Population.
The increase of the paper manufactory, to be
afterwards mentioned, having attracted to it 60 work people with their
families, may account in part for this small increase in population. Other
local causes are likewise assignable, such as the reclaiming of waste
lands, &c.
IV.—Industry
Agriculture.— Though it is impossible to
estimate exactly (owing to the want of recent measurements and plans of
the various estates,) the number of acres of cultivated and uncultivated
surface in the parish, as well as the number under wood, yet the following
statement has been prepared with considerable care, and may be taken as
near the truth:
Rent.—The rent of land varies very much from
15s. to L.3 per Scotch acre, the average may be from L. 1 to L. 1, 15s.
per Scotch acre. The average rent of grazing a full-grown ox or cow and
keep during the year is about L. 6. Live-Stock.—The common breed of
black-cattle is a cross of the Aberdeenshire with the polled Angus and
Galloway breeds.
There are no sheep, with the exception of a few of the English breeds kept
for domestic use, chiefly on account of their wool.
Husbandry.—The system of husbandry pursued in
the lower parts of the parish is a five years, and in the higher parts a
seven years rotation.
The crops raised are oats, barley, hay,
turnips, and potatoes. There is very little wheat raised, the soil being
in general too thin. It has, however, of late years been cultivated at
Murtle with success after ley.
The breadth of turnips, for which the soil is
well adapted, has been increasing every year since the introduction of
bone dust as a manure.
A great deal of waste land has been brought
under cultivation within these last twenty years, and improvements are
still making in trenching, ditching, and draining low-lying land—a
considerable breadth of which is still susceptible of being reclaimed.
The leases are of nineteen years' duration; in
some cases they are granted for twenty-seven years, when waste land is
required to be improved during the lease.
Farm-buildings are in general substantially
built of stone and lime, and belong exclusively to the proprietors, being
held by the tenants on dead inventory. The cottages are neat and
comfortable; and the fields are inclosed with stone fences.
Fisheries.—The salmon-fisheries on the Dee,
since the introduction of the stake-nets at the mouth of the river, have
greatly diminished in value, barely remunerating the labours of the
fishermen, though formerly they yielded a considerable rent to the
proprietors.
Produce.—The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised
in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, may be as follows:
Manufactures.—The manufactories in the parish
are three in number.
1st. On the burn of Culter, near its junction with the river Dee, is
situated a snuff-manufactory, belonging to William M'Combie, Esq. of
Easter Skene. It is a small low square thatched building. The internal
machinery is driven by a water-wheel of eight horse power. About three
hundred weight of snuff are ground per week. The services of only one man
are required. 2d.
Several hundred yards farther up the burn-side is situated the large paper
manufactory of Messrs Arbuthnott and M'Combie, who purchased it about two
years ago. This establishment was the first of the kind in the north,
being begun in 1751 on comparatively a small scale, and has ever since
been in active operation. The present proprietors entered with it in 1821.
They have very materially enlarged the work, and added the new
improvements in their branch of manufacture, so that, in proportion to its
extent, which is not exceeded in many instances in Scotland, it is not
inferior to any for the same purposes. It consists of a large chaste pile
of the necessary buildings, in excellent repair; its internal machinery is
of the most approved modern description. The necessary movements in the
machinery are produced by two large powerful water-wheels—the one placed a
little above the other—and both turned by the same stream, brought from an
artificial reservoir by a wooden aqueduct. The papers made at this work
are browns, cartridges, and all sorts of wrapping papers, &c. It yields a
large revenue to Government, and gives employment to upwards of 60 people,
whose comforts are in every respect attended to, and in general they
appear sensible of this. This mill is beautifully situated on a flat haugh
of several acres, surrounded on the west, north-west, and north, by a very
steep hill, the front of which seems to consist of the segments of
different circles; the steep appears almost perpendicular; it is in some
places nearly 400 feet high, and is covered with young wood. On the east
and south the ground is not so high. There are large projecting rocks or
crags on each side of the burn, both above and below the flat where the
mill stands, at both of which places there is a bridge thrown across
between the opposite rocks-—the one on the old, the other on the new line
of road to Aberdeen.
The reservoir contains one of the largest artificially collected bodies of
water any where to be met with. It is confined in the den above the bridge
by a large dike at its mouth, between its opposing rocky sides. When full,
it is nearly 20 feet deep, and extends in length nearly half a mile. Above
the surface of the water the braes are steep and inaccessible, (except by
artificial walks,) and are covered with wood. When the burn is flooded,
and the water runs over the top of the dike, the cascade down its front is
beautiful. The aqueduct from this reservoir to the mill wheel is a work of
considerable extent, and deserves notice. It is composed of wood, is 700
feet long, 7 feet wide, and 2 feet deep, and is supported on stone pillars
neatly built, with iron and wooden pillars between. It passes below the
bridge crossing the burn, about 10 feet above its surface, and conveys a
large body of water.
The beauty of the situation and scenery of this establishment is much
admired. The extent of artificial works, the large pile of buildings on
the left, the spacious reservoir on the right, with an occasional cascade
over its dike; the aqueduct, supported in the air, with its large column
of rolling water passing under the spacious bridge, with the surrounding
rocks and woods,—all at this point burst upon the eye of the traveller,
and present to his view a combination of the beauties of nature and the
works of art in a variety and to an extent seldom if ever to be met with
in so narrow a compass.
3d, Nearly a mile farther up the hollow, on
the burn of Leuchar, in 1831, a mill was erected for carding and spinning
wool, and for manufacturing coarse woollen cloth. This establishment is
increasing. It at present gives employment to 16 persons. V.—Parochial
Economy.
Market-Town.—Our nearest market and post-town is Aberdeen.
Means of Communication.—The Dee side turnpike,
one of the best public roads in the north, runs through the southern
district of the parish nearly four miles. The mail-coach to and from
Aberdeen and the Castletown of Braemar passes daily, with one other public
coach, which runs between Aberdeen and Banchory in summer. These are
principally employed by visitors from Aberdeen to the various favourite
residences on Dee side, more especially to Ballater, near to which place
are the famous wells of Pannanich. The Skene turnpike runs through the
back part of the parish about a mile. The cross accommodation roads are
sufficiently good.
Ecclesiastical State.—The parish church was built in 1779: it contains 550
sittings; is a neat substantial building, in a thorough state of repair;
is situated on the bank of the river, near the middle of the southern
boundary of the parish; and is very well attended. The manse is 150 years
old, and has undergone considerable repairs and alterations. In 1826, an
addition of two rooms was made to it, which makes it sufficiently
comfortable and commodious. The offices are old and thatched, but in an
ordinary state of repair. The glebe, including the garden and the stance
of manse and offices, contains the legal number of acres, along with
nearly an acre of pasture. The stipend by the last augmentation in 1812 is
in meal, 54 bolls, 2 firlots, 2 11/20 lippies; in bear, 51 bolls, 3
firlots; and in money, L. 113, 8s. 2d. All the people are of the
Established Church, with the exception of five families. The average
number of communicants in the Established Church is 500.
Education.—There are 4 schools in the parish,
all of which are well attended. The parochial school is a very handsome,
commodious, and expensive building, capable of containing upwards of 120
scholars, and is numerously attended. The salary is L.28, with what annual
allowance the Trustees of the late James Dick, Esq. may judge proper to
allocate for this parish, and some small mortifications for the education
of poor children and for teaching a Sabbath school. The amount of fees
varies from L. 26 to L. 29 per annum. The branches taught are, English,
writing, arithmetic, English grammar, geography, mathematics, Latin, and
Greek. In the other schools, the same branches are taught, with the
exception of mathematics, Greek, and Latin. In all of them the scholars
receive religious instruction on Sabbath. Small mortifications were
bequeathed for the support of three Sabbath schools in this parish by the
late Mr Gordon of Murtle.
Poor and Parochial Funds.— Collections at the
church for the poor amount to about L. 35 per annum. The number of poor on
the roll is 30, and each receives about L. 1, 10s. from the collections
and interest of money.
January 1840. |
