|
PRESBYTERY OF DEER, SYNOD OF
ABERDEEN.
THE REV. CHARLES GIBBON, MINISTER.
I.—Topography and Natural
History.
Name.—The name of the
parish, from the oldest records, appears to have been Lonmey, [See
Inventory, dated 7th July 1559, Keith's Catalogue of Bishops, p. 74, 4to
edition. It is also found written Longmey in the kirk-session record,
beginning anno 1709. Lonmay was a parsonage.]—an appellation, it is
presumed, of Celtic etymology, and, perhaps, descriptive of the flat
superficial character of the parish, and more especially of its northern
half, where the church has always been situated.
Extent, &c.—It extends
about 9½ miles from north north-east to south by west; its breadth varies
from 3½ miles to half a mile; its superficial contents amount, at least,
to 23 square miles. It is bounded on the east and north-east, by the
German Ocean (which begins here to trend westward, forming the great
estuary of the Moray Frith); a streamlet divides the parish on the east
northeast from Rathen, with which it is also conterminous on the north and
north-west and west; on the west also, and west-south-west, lies the
parish of Strichen (misprinted Brechin in the last Statistical Account).
On the south-west and south are the parishes of Deer and Longside, from
both of which it is divided partly by a branch of the Ugie, and partly by
a streamlet which flows into it. It is touched by St Fergus also on the
south, and is bounded by Crimond on the great line of south and south
south-east.
Topographical Appearances.—The parish is very irregular in its figure,
having unequal sides much indented and curved. The line of coast to the
eastward, and the short course of the Ugie through its southern extremity,
are alone well defined ; towards the centre of the parish, the opposite
lines converge, forming a narrow neck, which separates Crimond from
Strichen. There are two or three unimportant ridges, which run from east
to west through the parish, besides the benty hillocks, and one or two
green braes which skirt the links near the beach. These run from north and
by west to south south-east, or thereby.
There are two extensive plains, comprehending
the bulk of the parish. The northern plain contains the estates of Lonmay,
Cair ness, Craigellie, Blairmormond, a small part of the estate of In-veralochy,
and part of Crimonmogate. This plain consists chiefly of cultivated land
interspersed with plantations of wood. The waters of the loch of Strathbeg
here also cover, it is supposed, upwards of 410 Scotch acres, besides near
140 more in the parish of Crimond. The southern plain is somewhat more
elevated, and is broken by rising grounds. It comprehends a considerable
part of Crimonmogate, the estate of Park, and the estate of Kinninmonth.
Here are two very extensive peat-mosses, part of the last-mentioned
property and of Crimonmogate: They are connected together, and with other
extensive mosses in Strichen and Crimond. The coast extends about four
miles from the fishing village of St Combs, to near Rattray rocks. The
Lonmay shore is a sandy beach, without bay or headland.
Meteorology.—The temperature of the atmosphere
may be illustrated by the following tables, shewing the monthly mean of
the range of the thermometer; also a partial series of observations of the
hygrometer; and the pressure of the atmosphere is ascertained by
observation with the barometer; and there is annexed an account of the
prevailing winds:
Hydrography.—The estuary of the Moray Frith
may be said to commence on the eastern boundary of this parish, as the
land trends to the north-west and west north-west to nearly west, and by
north. Perennial
springs are not numerous, either in the north or south ends of the parish.
A good deal of the water is of a brownish colour, as it passes through
sand intermixed with iron ores: where rock is found which is prevailingly
sienite or greenstone, there, and wherever clay is met with between the
upper soil and bed of the spring, the water is pure, cold, and excellent.
Towards the southern extremity of the parish, wells are dug to the depth
of 30 feet through shingle and broken slate-stones of a red colour.
There are various mineral springs—chalybeates.
Lakes.—There is only one considerable lake,
viz. the loch of Strathbeg, covering, as is said, about 550 Scotch acres,
of which more than three-fourths are in this parish, and the rest of it
within the parish of Crimond. The average depth of its water is about 3½
feet: its greatest depth does not exceed 6½. This lake, as stated in the
former Statistical Account, was originally formed by means of the sands
being drifted by the wind so as to block up the outlet of the stream
called the burn of Strathbeg, which flowed some 200 years ago into the
sea, near the village of Rattray in Crimond, which was also overwhelmed
with sand. But there is no legitimate basis whereon the gigantic
calculation might rest which was proposed by the ingenious writer of the
account now referred to, and whereby he proposed to prove " that the
evaporation from the Caspian sea is sufficient to counterbalance all the
water poured in from the rivers which empty themselves into it." It is
believed, however, that till of late years there was little apparent
outlet of the water of this lake into the sea; but then a constant
filtration was visibly taking place, occasioning deep and dangerous
shifting quicksands. For some years past, a distinct watery line can be
traced by the eye through the sandy beach, along the margin of which the
sand is saturated with the oozing water; and to this additional means of
escape is to be attributed the fact of the comparative diminution of the
waters of Strathbeg. In the year 1817, the water was four feet higher than
it now is at a gangway placed near a boat-house, built by the present
proprietor on the west side of the loch in 1809. It is matter of
observation to old persons, as well as of tradition, that the sea has
receded considerably, and left a much greater extent of sandy beach on the
eastern boundary of this parish. In 1796, the number of Scotch acres of
sandy ground between the sea and the links is stated, on the plan of the
estate of Lonmay, to be, per measurement, 398, exclusive of bents. There
is now found to be 1126 acres 5 roods: and, allowing for any little
inaccuracy in either of the measurements or both, the increase is
doubtless great. An attempt was made by a Mr Sellar, forty-four years ago,
to drain this loch: Several thousand pounds were spent in this attempt,
which proved a complete failure. The open canals which he constructed were
soon blocked up by drifting sand. It would seem that any after operation
of this kind, to afford the probability of success, must be conducted by
covered conduits, and, after all, perhaps, the expense would be more than
commensurate with the profits to be drawn from cultivating the present bed
of the loch. This bed consists, for the most part, of sandy soil, enriched
somewhat by the decomposition of fishes, by the shells of the large
mussel, and also by the alluvial deposits conveyed during occasional
swells of the stream which constantly flows into the lake. Indeed, it
seems unlikely that any proprietor of taste would choose to part with a
natural object of considerable interest in the landscape, as well as a
source of many days of summer amusement in pleasure-boat sailing and
fishing, for all the pecuniary advantage which, at a distant period, his
heirs might come to enjoy. There are a few islets on the loch, but there
has been much neglect in leaving these, as well as the ground which skirts
the margin of the lake, unadorned with planting. A small patch near its
edge was tried a few years ago, the rapid growth of which will, it is
hoped, encourage the proprietor to proceed on a more extended scale. The
scenery at present around the loch can scarcely be termed picturesque. It
is bounded on the east by a line of benty sand hillocks : to the north
there is a fine grassy extent of downs or links, covered with cattle for
six months of the year, and affording constant pasturage for sheep.
Geology and Mineralogy.— The prevailing rock
within the parish is sienite and greenstone. There is a vein of limestone
in the northeast end of the parish, on the estate of Craigellie, which
runs westward through Rathen to Strichen, &c.
Rolled blocks of granite are occasionally
found. Gravel abounds in one of the ridges intersecting the estate of
Kinninmonth, in the south end of the parish, as also occasionally on the
estate of Craigellie. Clay of fine quality abounds as subsoil on
Cairnglass, along the north-west bank, near the sea; and also from the
surface to a considerable depth along the ridge which divides the upper
from the lower part of Crimonmogate. In other parts of the parish,
occasionally a thin layer of coarse clay is found, mixed with coarse sand,
about six or eight inches from the surface. Bog iron ore abounds on the
estate of Lonmay, and peat in larger masses in the extensive mosses in
Crimonmogate and Kinninmonth; and in these mosses are many remains of oak,
common and black. Of the last some fine specimens have been preserved, and
made into cabinet furniture by Mr Bannerman of Crimonmogate. There are
likewise found many remains of birch trees, hazel-nuts, alder, and fir.
Almost everywhere decomposed roots of plants in great variety are found,
below the till or pan which abounds in the flat part of the parish.
The upper soil of this parish is, for the most
part, a dry, light, black, sandy soil, very slightly cohesive, resting on
a coarse hard bed of red sand in the north plain of the parish. This red
sand is full of iron ore, and is so hard as to require repeated blows of
the pick-axe to pierce it, and thereby it is detachable in large masses
from the finer white sand beneath. The clay soils have been already
mentioned. There are some intermediate kinds on the estate of Crimonmogate,
the south side of Craigellie, and on part of Park, Blairmormond, and
Kinninmonth. There is, however, a very small portion, indeed, of a loamy
nature, and little or no marl has been found. There are no mines of any
kind within the parish.
Fishes.—The loch of Strathbeg abounds with
trout, both red and yellow; with perch, (first introduced by the present
proprietor from the late Mr Ferguson of Pitfour's pond); also with
freshwater flounders, and eels of great size and in great numbers. The sea
affords on this part of the coast the finest cod, both white and red ling,
and sometimes tusk, haddock, whiting, skate, holibut, turbot, sea-trout,
flounders, including plaice and soles, which last, for want of the
trawl-net, are but rarely caught. Cat-fish and John Dories, both of fine
quality, are occasionally taken, though rarely. Herring are met with, but
the fishing ground is chiefly within the Moray Frith. Shoals of dog-fish
are seen during the herring-season, and the whale called Finner; also the
grampus and porpoises in considerable number. The coal-fish is in swarms,
and in two of its first stages of growth is tolerably good food.
Botany.—The writer of this is indebted for a
very extensive, and, it is believed, correct list of the indigenous plants
proper to this parish, to a medical practitioner residing in this
neighbourhood, (Dr Cow,) who is proposing to publish a work on this
subject, comprehending the district of Buchan. There are 237 plants
mentioned in this list, but, as the greater portion of them are common to
all parts of the country, and none peculiar to the parish, it is not
thought necessary to insert it. A few specimens of the sea holly have been
found by the above-mentioned gentleman.
Forests and Plantations.—Although the soil in
this parish, when disturbed to any depth, almost universally affords proof
of the continuity of the forest here in olden times, yet there were not
forty trees to be seen above ground within its bounds, fifty years ago.
There are now 222 Scotch acres under wood, a large proportion of which has
been planted within the last twenty years, and a good extent within the
last three or four years. Scotch firs were first tried, being thought best
adapted to the soil and climate; but experience has proved that idea
erroneous, where there is but little previous shelter. Alders, willow,
elder, and poplars, should be first planted, and thickest on the outer
borders of the plantation. The other kinds proper for this parish are
found to be larches, ash, elm, and especially beech, which last is
unquestionably the tree of Buchan. It has the following peculiar
advantages over others —its roots pierce more readily and effectually
through the hard iron sand, and agree with the under soft sand; it grows
free of fog or tree fungus; thrives under the drop and branches of other
trees; it puts out a number of leading shoots, and these are seldom or
ever blighted,—not being so early as to suffer from the cold and often
frosty winds of spring. The beech, moreover, is feathered with branches
from top to bottom, and in the course of thirty years overtakes all other
trees in height. Where there is previous shelter, pines of various species
may be planted with advantage; and, after being three years in the ground,
push rapidly, and assist by their shelter the growth of their neighbours.
Oaks also thrive well, and have been too sparingly planted here. The
sycamore, or pseudo-platanus, and the rowan or mountain-ash are both hardy
trees, and are said to be indigenous. The birch thrives well, but is not a
lofty tree here, Limes look healthy, and come to tolerable size. The
horse-chesnut does well where sheltered. Most flowering shrubs and
evergreens which have succeeded north of the Tay, seem to agree with our
light soil, but require most of them protection from the climate,
especially from the cold winds of March and April. But, above all others,
May is our trying month, which "brings down many wounded by her."
II.—Civil History.
Land-owners.—The land-owners at present are,
Thomas Gordon, Esq. of Buthlaw, proprietor of Lonmay and Cairness,
principal heritor and patron; [He is now a general officer in the Royal
Greek army, and author of a book which deserves to be generally read, The
History of the Greek Revolution.] 2. Charles Bannerman, Esq. of
Cri-monmogate; 3. James Russell, Esq. of Kinninmonth; 4. William Shand,
Esq. of Craigellie; 5. John Lumsden Sheriffs, Esq. of Blairmormond;
6.-George Fraser, Esq. of Park; [Deceased since the above was written. ]
and 7. Colonel Charles Fraser of Inveralochy.
Parochial Registers.—The parochial register
begins anno 1709. The first sentence following the title is worthy of
attention: "1709, Sept. 24, This congregation having for near two years
been without an Established minister since the death of Mr Houston, late
Episcopal incumbent here, the people and heritors several times
endeavouring to have a gospel minister among them, but still differing and
dividing in their choice of the person: at length a young man, Mr Thomas
Gordon, Preacher of the Gospel, by appointment both of synod and
presbytery, preached, &c. whereupon the presbytery did legally and orderly
call the said Mr Gordon to be minister."
The entries made in the session record are
very full during Mr Gordon's incumbency, which ended at his death in 1743.
Besides the ordinary account of poor's money and matters of discipline,
there are some notices of a miscellaneous character, which serve to
illustrate times past. Collections are reported for repair of roads,
bridges, the harbour of Banff; in 1718, for the distressed Protestants in
Lithuania; in 1726, fasting and humiliation on account of scorching
drought; in 1723, thanksgiving for deliverance from pestilence raging in
foreign countries, and especially in France. [In 1737, Provincial Synod of
Aberdeen appoint a day for humiliation on account of abounding sin, and
particularly bloodshed, under which this province groans. In 1741, King
and Church appoint a fast on account of threatened famine.] Inquests on
the bodies of murdered persons seem sometimes to have been left to the
kirk-session. 1727, April 9, the minister reported that "he understood
there was a design among the heritors of this and the two neighbouring
parishes of Rathen and Crimond to erect ane Episcopal meeting-house near
to this church, as yt place most centrical to them all; and it was found
by the unanimous sentiment of the session that this designed meeting-house
was promoted from very malice and splen to the established government of
church and state, and to instil into the people of this corner, principles
of rebellion against the Government, and favour for a Popish Pretender;
and as they were persuaded of this from weighty reasons, which are not
proper to be insert here so particularly from this consideration, yt all
the common people of these three parishes, and especially in this, had
always been most punctual and precise attenders upon, and partakers, of
all gospel ordinances dispensed by yr respective ministers, had frequently
signified their satisfaction with yr ministers, and resolution to adhere
to yr ministry, unless they should be compelled (as they feared) to attend
a worship fringed with ceremonies (by yr respective masters)," &c. And it
was found that the principal promoters of this division, and intenders to
have the meeting-house near this church, were " Mr Fraser, present heritor
of the barony of Lonmay, who was engaged in the late rebellion, and still
continued in yt same strain against the Government and Gospel ministry;
and also William Cruden, one of the Fraserburgh posts, a nottour
Bourignian in his principles," &c. &c.
1732, Dec. 10, The minister reported "that qun
the fore wall of the church was taken down, yr was a little cut stone
above the big door, containing an account qun and by qum yr church was
built, with ye ministers' names and entry there in office: and yt ye
cutting of the sd stone was very bad, and so defaced yt it was scarce
legible, and yrefore he had caused buy, cut, colour, and set up another
stone, containing what was written on the former." This stone is built
into the present church-yard wall, and contains what follows; "This house
was built for the worship of God by the parish of Lonmay, 1607—Mr Thomas
Rires being minister then, and three years before at the old church. After
him, Messrs William Rires, James Irvine, and John Houston were ministers
successively—next, Mr Thomas Gordon was ordained minister of the Gospel by
the Presbytery of Deer, with consent of all concerned in the parish,
September 24,1709," &c.
The last mentioned minister died in 1743. His
successor, Mr Sim, died in 1752; and Mr Lundie, the third Presbyterian
minister from the Revolution, died in 1807, May, after being five years
pastor of the parish. Mr Shearer, the fourth in order, died in 1810,
February, and the present minister was settled in May 1810.
Antiquities.—There are no antiquities in the
parish, unless we mention a Druidical circle, which is very entire at
Newark, in Crimonmogate. The centre stone is of great size, and (as well
as several others composing the circle) must have been brought from a
great distance. We may also mention the site of an old castle, called the
Castle of Lonmay, in the Links thereof, near the sea, from which all the
stones have been carried off, and employed in building farm-houses, &c.;
but, except the name, all tradition respecting this building is lost.
Modern Buildings.— Of modern buildings, the
principal one is the House of Cairness, founded some years ago by the
father of the present proprietor: the plan by Mr James Playfair,
Architect, Edinburgh. It was finished in the year 1799, at an expense of
about L.25,000. The porch, which is a very chaste construction after the
Grecian model, having four Ionic pillars, is of granite, as also the
carved cornices. The granite was brought from the neighbouring parish of
Longside. The body of the house is built of greenstone, or what the masons
call heathen, quarried on the estate. It is truly a fine house, both in
design and execution. Another elegant building has been erected a few
years ago on the neighbouring estate of Crimonmogate by Mr Bannerman, the
proprietor, at an expense exceeding L. 10,000.
III.—Population.
Number of insane, 2; fatuous, 1; deaf and
dumb, 3. * A great
many burials take place of persons dying in Kinninmonth in the adjacent
burial-grounds of other parishes.
Character of the People.—The habits of the
people are quiet, orderly, and industrious. Their meals are frugal in the
extreme, consisting almost wholly of farinaceous food, milk, potatoes,
greens, &c. Fish are, however, occasionally used, especially skate, and at
the approach of winter, a fat small-sized ox or heifer (often of the
Shetland breed, bought for the purpose,) is not unfrequently shared
between three or four families. Undoubtedly the people are disposed to be
content and satisfied with a very moderate supply of the humbler comforts
of life; but for some years past, difficulties have increased in the way
of their procurement. There is little or no capital left amongst them,
owing to the deterioration of the value of agricultural produce, including
cattle, and which is wholly disproportioned to any reduction which has
taken place in the cost of rent, labour, and other farm charges and
expense of necessary articles of consumption. Depression of circumstances
has more and more prevailed in the case of those who were moderately
provided with the means of life, and the reduced state of each class
acting disadvantageously on its inferior, has occasioned the increase of
poverty to be felt in rather an alarming manner, so that great exertions
have become necessary to keep up the system of voluntary provision, so as
to be effectual for the help of the sick poor, the aged, and unemployed
females. The people
are in general creditably attentive to their religious and moral duties;
they are well informed considering their opportunities. Perhaps we ought
not to omit remarking in this place, the injurious tendency of the excise
laws at present in force, which discourage the making of home-dried malt
liquors, and, consequently, reduce the use of these, to the great
detriment of temperance and health ; whilst the more intoxicating
distilled spirit is sold at a cheap rate, tempting farm-servants and
others to dram-drinking, and affording facilities to all who are so
inclined to evening meetings for gossip and tippling, and thence to
thriftless and improper habits.
IV.—Industry.
Grazing Rent.—The average rent of grazing at
the rate of L.2 per ox, of 40 stone English weight grazed, is over the
parish infield and outfield inclosed, about L. 1, 4s. per acre.
Wages—The rate of labour for different kinds
of farm-work is, per diem, 2s. harvest; without board, 1s. 3d. during
winter, and 1s. 6d. during summer; masons, 2s. 6d. summer-work, and 1s.
8d. winter-work; carpenters, 2s. 3d. summer, 1s. 6d. winter; smith-work
charged per piece, and very high.
Cattle and Sheep.—It is well known that Buchan
has long been celebrated for its cattle. Formerly an improved cross from
the Highland small-horned bull, with the larger cow of this country, was
in high esteem both for symmetry, compactness, and weight. The polled or
dodded cattle succeeded, and for the last twenty years preceding 1830,
were in great demand, and indeed still bear a high price in the southern
markets, and the top price in London. The short-horned cattle, however,
are beginning to supplant our own Buchan breed. A considerable difference
of opinion prevails as to their comparative merits. One disadvantage
belongs to the large short-horned ox, that he is too heavy in the carcase
for driving to a distant market. His superiority consists in his feeding
to a greater weight, and coming sooner to the home-market for the flesher.
Sheep.—The sheep of this country are the
produce of a mixed breed. They carry a weighty and tolerably fine fleece,
and their mutton is well flavoured, but inferior to the black or the
white-faced Highland six year-old wethers. These last are imported
annually, and fed for the table. Mr Bannerman of Crimonmogate has imported
some South Down and Lincolnshire sheep, and has a large stock of fine
half-bred English sheep in his lawn.
Horses.—Great attention has been paid for some
years past to the rearing of horses. There is a very striking change in
this respect between the present strong, fine built draught horses,
ploughing in pairs, and the dwarfish small-boned beasts, six or even eight
of which used to be seen, forty years ago, attached to the clumsy plough
then in use. Every year, prize stallions, both draught and blood, travel
through this and the neighbouring parishes. General Gordon of Cairness,
six years ago, brought three fine Arab stallions from Greece, two of which
have got stock in the parish, which promise well for the saddle.
Pigs.—Pigs are raised in considerable number,
and of a good kind, being improved by a mixture of the Bedford and
Westphalia, Orkney and Chinese. The close-hoofed kind have been also
tried, but have been given up on account of the redness of their flesh.
Husbandry.— The husbandry in this quarter
deserves a very different character from that bestowed on it in the former
Statistical Account of the parish, being in general both laboriously and
skilfully conducted. Neither does it owe its advancement, as the writer of
the first account supposes, to the introduction of lime as a manure, which
in general does not suit, the soil being sandy; but bone dust has been
applied for the last five or six years, with very great success both for
green crops, for which it is chiefly used, and for surface-dressing
pasture, or for laying down with sown grasses. Near the coast, sea-ware is
mixed with compost for fallows, and applied to the inferior soils unmixed
before the ley is broken up for white crop. In certain cases, it is
applied to the stubble field, when a second white crop is taken ; and it
is universally esteemed as surface-dressing for pasture. It is needless to
remark, that a regular rotation of cropping has been long observed. A
seven shift is now most approved in this quarter. There is a good deal of
bear or big, raised after the green crops, and but little barley, except
on some few patches of fine infield near the sea-side. Rye has been raised
with success on the poorest soils if dry ; but there is no home demand
either for the grain, or straw for hat manufacture. The soil of Lonmay is
best adapted for raising grass, (which is very early,) and turnips. A
small proportion of the soil is capable of producing above seven or eight
returns. The best
illustration we can furnish of the improvement which has taken place on
the face of this part of the country, is by stating the number of acres
reclaimed from waste, as under:—
* Much has also been done on the other
estates, but the above examples will serve.
Besides the above, about 260 acres, styled
arable pasture, is now under the usual rotation of cropping. [What is
called outfield does not support the sown grasses above two or three
years, after which the inferior and coarser natural grasses return. This
remark applies to much of the thin land in the parish, which must,
therefore, be surface-dressed, with a view to continued pasturage ; or
else be broken up frequently, and laid down of new with sown grasses. Mr
Bannerman is now making extensive experiments in burning peat moss, with a
view to reclaim waste ground.] Another test of the increased value of the
land is obtained from the comparative rental. In 1795, according to the
former Statistical Account, the rent of the parish was two thousand
guineas, it is now L. 5395.
There are two water meadows in the parish, one
on General Gordon's, and the other on Mr Bannerman's estate. The general
endurance of leases is for nineteen years. On the supposition that a seven
years course of rotation is the most proper, the term ought to be extended
to at least twenty-one years.
The enclosures are almost all of stone, of
which dikes, without cement, are built of great strength, and with much
neatness. As, however, outlying stones are scarce, enclosing is attended
with much outlay of capital. Where roads intervene a sloping face of earth
is left outside, which is sometimes planted with thorn or beech. The farm
steadings have been much improved ; but there still remains a good deal to
be done in that department.
Improvement.—What may be termed the grand
improvement introduced of late years, is trench-ploughing, with four oxen
or four strong horses, once in the rotation. By this operation a greater
depth of soil, and fresh soil has been procured, and by this means the
growth of plants has been in many places favoured by the pan or till being
pierced. By trench ploughing, greater moisture is obtained in dry seasons,
for the roots of plants are thus allowed to descend, and, on the other
hand, in rainy seasons the surface water is not kept up, but is speedily
absorbed by the finer and softer sand subsoil.
Obstacles to Improvement.—Want of capital is
the crying grievance, and its effects are felt yearly more and more. Small
farms, in consequence of this and the deterioration in the value of
produce, cannot afford profits, after payment of rents, sufficient to
maintain the occupiers and their families. It is truly wonderful how any
of them can continue on their present footing. They work hard, and live
with the utmost frugality; and they contrive to appear in decent clothing
at church, and to give their children Christian education. I am sorry to
say, their comforts, which were visibly increased, are again reduced.
Fisheries.—We may mention three kinds: the
cod-fishing, salt-cured, and sold wholesale. The fish is sold in retail
from house to house for food. St Combs is the only fishing station in the
parish. The St Combs fishermen go with their herring-boats to Fraserburgh.
The whole rent paid for houses and gardens to
the proprietors of St Combs is L. 61, 4s.
Average gross amount of raw Produce.—Strict
accuracy is hardly attainable in furnishing information on this head. Few
agriculturists in this part of the country make regular entries of returns
of produce in their farm accounts, or of sales, so as to furnish an
average valuation thereof, and the same holds true of their live-stock.
Details of profits cannot be obtained, so as to enable us to treat the
subject otherwise than hypothetically. The following table' has, however,
been framed after due inquiry and consideration, and will be found perhaps
to approach the truth as nearly as the nature of the case will admit.
* Oats of 1st quality, 19s. adding 6d.
additional for bear grown, of which the real average price is 22s. per
boll; 2d quality of oats fiar prices.
t This total value exceeds what is realised,
as the writer finds, on more extensive inquiry, something should be set
down for wasted and lost; but the rent being, as per common computation,
one-third, L. 5500 X 3 = L. 16,500; (L. 18,000 may be near the
truth.)—Jan. 1840.
Manufactures.—Kelp was the only article manufactured in the parish, and
this unfortunately is now at an end, in consequence of the free
importation of barilla. There used to be about 30 persons, chiefly women,
employed here for eight weeks in the year, at 1s. per diem each, and about
20 tons of kelp was annually made and sold. The rent of the kelp shore
used formerly to average L. 50 per annum, and is now gone.
Navigation.—Number of boats from St Combs
employed in the herring fishery, 13; and perhaps as many smaller boats for
ordinary white-fishing.
V.—Parochial Economy.
Market-Town.—The nearest
market-town is Fraserburgh, four miles distant from the north-east
boundary of the parish. Peterhead is about eight miles from the south-east
boundary. Means of
Communication.—One receiving-house for letters and newspapers, about
one-quarter of a mile west of the western boundary of the parish, at
Cortebræ. One turnpike-road from Peterhead to Banff, by Fraserburgh,
traverses the parish for a mile and half; another from Fraserburgh to
Aberdeen, by Mintlaw, extends from north to south nearly six miles through
the parish. One daily mail-coach runs from the south to Fraserburgh, and '
one stage-coach from Peterhead to Banff, by Mintlaw, three times a week.
[We have now also a stage-coach between Peterhead and Fraserburgh, which
runs through the parish - Jan. 1840.]
Ecclesiastical State.—The parish church is
situated within two miles of the north-east boundary, and upwards of seven
from the south end. From the south end much inconvenience, amounting in
many cases to absolute hindrance from attending any place of worship, has
long, too long, resulted from this arrangement. In March 1836, a petition
was given in to the presbytery of Deer, and signed by 103 heads of
families, which describes so graphically the spiritual wants of the people
that it is here inserted: "The petition of the householders in the
southern district of the parish of Lonmay, comprehending the whole of
Kinninmonth, part of Belfatten (in Crimonmogate), and of others residing
on the borders of the contiguous parishes of Strichen, Old Deer, Longside,
and St Fergus,—Humbly sheweth, That your petitioners labour under the
grievous disadvantage of want of opportunities of public worship, and of
adequate pastoral superintendence, by reason of the great distance which
intervenes between their places of residence and their parish churches,
aggravated by the impracticability of accommodation in others less remote.
Adhering to the Church of Scotland, your petitioners cannot but feel
distressed that they are themselves so frequently, and the young, the
aged, and infirm of their families, almost entirely, deprived of the means
of attendance at the house of God; and all of waiting on the ministry of a
pastor residing among them: That your petitioners inhabit a district not
less than from six to eight square miles in extent, so disadvantageously
situated in the respects above shewn, that no less than 78 families,
consisting of 416 souls, in Lonmay alone, and upwards of 60 other
families, adhering to the Church of Scotland, are from four to seven miles
distant from their respective parish churches. These families have,
moreover, many of them, no seats in any other church of the Establishment,
others but one sitting, and a considerable number have even taken sittings
in a place of worship, belonging to a body not only unconnected, but
disagreeing, with the Church of Scotland ; having often no choice between
this occasional departure from their own church, or absenting themselves
wholly from a place of worship. That the number of Dissenters in this
district from the Established Church is, at present, exceedingly small,
but will undoubtedly increase deplorably, unless an additional church
shall be forthwith erected in connection with the Church of Scotland. That
your petitioners have, therefore, joined together in subscription to
contribute to the expense of erecting a suitable building, capable of
containing from 350 to 400 persons." &c. &c. By means of the aid afforded
by the Church Extension Committee of the General Assembly, amounting to L.
150, and local contributions, L. 250 and upwards,a church has been built;
the whole expense defrayed; and a preacher located having a neat cottage
hard by the church; and the gratifying spectacle may now be seen of
groupes of families every Lord's day, passing thickly to and from this
additional house of God. In theori-ginal parish church every vacant
sitting is taken, and this new church is filled, illustrating in this part
of the country the benefit of church extension. The present parish church
was built on a new site in 1787. The old church stood on the present
burial-ground since 1608, previous to which the parish church was by the
sea-side, hard by where the village of St Combs now stands. It appears to
have been of small dimensions. The present church is in good repair. All
the public buildings are annually inspected by competent tradesmen, and
defects supplied, in consequence of standing resolutions of the heritors.
The church was originally seated for 860. There are once every year 800
persons within its walls. Seats were allowed by the heritors to be fitted
up in the centre of the area, at the expense of the kirk-session, by whom
they are annually let for sums of from 1s. to 4d. each, for behoof of the
poor. A good many of the tenants are accommodated with seats free of rent.
Others, I understand, are charged by their landlord a small sum per
seat,—a practice which ought to be discontinued, for obvious reasons.
The present manse was built in the year 1824,
and has already undergone some overhauling, and will soon probably require
more, as is common with cheap manses.
The glebe consists of 13 acres, two of which
have been reclaimed by the present incumbent from whinny moor-land. An ex-cambion
took place in 1810 of the old glebe at St Combs, for some additional
ground adjoining the present glebe. The stipend, by decreet of the Lords
Commissioners, was modified in 1814 to 13 chalders of victual, half
barley, half meal. [Now modified to 16½ chalders, half barley, half meal,
with L. 10 for communion elements. - Jan. 1840.]
There is one additional church at Kinninmonth;
the preacher, Mr C. Cordiner, is resident there, and visits and catechises
in his district. There is one Dissenting chapel, viz. an Episcopalian, the
minister of which is paid by seat-rents, which make up a very small salary
to him. There is no Popish chapel, and only one person of that communion
in the parish. The
two Established Churches are both well attended. The number of
communicants has been yearly on the increase. The average for the last
three years is about 780. Since Kinninmonth church was built the
communicants exceed this number considerably. The number of families who
belonged to the Established Church in 1837 was 036; of persons of all
ages, 1621. In the parish attending the Dissenting Episcopal chapel, 33
families, and 154 persons; of Seceders attending meeting-houses in other
parishes, 5 families, and 23 persons. Total, 1798.
Education.—Total number of schools in the
parish, 6; of parochial schools, 3; of unendowed or private, 1; of dames'
schools for girls, sewing, &c. 2. Branches of education taught are English
reading, English grammar, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping; also
additional at the first parochial school Latin and mathematics and
navigation, which last is also taught in the St Comb's school.
Salaries of Schoolmasters.—Of the 1st, or
Lonmay estate school, L.28; of the 2d, or Kinninmonth school, L. 13, 6s.
7d.; of the 3d, or St Comb's school, L. 10: Total paid by heritors, L. 51,
6s. 7d. Amount of
Fees.—Latin per quarter, 5s.; mathematics and geography, 6s.; arithmetic,
4s.; English and writing, 3s.; English reading alone, 2s.; all paid at the
end of the quarter, and the total amount per annum of said fees to each
schoolmaster is reported by them to be: For first school, paid to the
assistant (the schoolmaster being superannuated, and allowed to retire
upon his salary) L. 21, 16s. (The heritors also subscribe L. 4 per annum
to said assistant during the life of the schoolmaster.) Second school,
amount of fees, L. 21, 4s. 9d. Third, St Combs, L. 16. Fourth, private
school, said to be only L. 8. For the first school there is sufficient
acommodation provided. The Kinninmonth school was built by general
subscription, and the teacher rents a house and small piece of ground. The
St Comb's school and schoolmaster's apartments were built by the
proprietor, General Gordon, at his own expense. The ordinary expense of
education is shown by the foregoing statement of fees, to be from 8s. per
annum for children, to L. 1, 4s. per annum for scholars learning Latin and
mathematics. There are only four or five persons between six and ten years
of age who have never been at school, and these will be educated at the
public expense. There are some old persons who cannot read or write. As a
proof how much alive the people are to the benefits of education, we shall
state in addition, the number of scholars now in attendance at the several
schools in the parish :—
Total number at present at Lonmay school, 58;
Kinninmonth, 68; St Combs, 52; parochial private school, 52; girls'
schools, 23; dames' school, 14; scholars belonging to Lonmay at other
schools in different parishes, 8; scholars belonging to other parishes
attending schools in Lonmay, 27; total scholars belonging to Lonmay, 248,
being upwards of one-eighth of the whole population.
When the present incumbent came to his
pastoral charge here about twenty-three years ago, there was but one
school, attended on an average by 47 or 48 scholars yearly. The heritors
in 1820 having complied with the supplication made to them, and additional
means of education having been provided, the schools were no sooner opened
than they were filled with scholars, and the private schools followed
thereafter. Then was afforded the present happy result, well worthy of the
observation of every well-wisher to the interests of Christianity and of
general civilization, who has it in his power "to go and do likewise."
Friendly Society.—There was a Friendly Society
instituted at St Combs. Considerable trouble was taken in forming it; but
after the fishermen had almost all joined, and the infant institution was
advancing prosperously, came the ill-judged legislative interference
proposed by Mr Kennedy, M. P., which upset this useful scheme, along with
a hundred others throughout Scotland; and it is feared no persuasion will
be available for their re-construction. Poor and Parochial Funds.—The
average number of persons receiving parochial aid for the last four years,
44 ; total funds, including collections at church, penalties, and interest
of about L.250 lent out, and voluntary donations from heritors, L. 66.—
Charge upon the funds : session-clerk and officer, doctor's bill and
coffins, say L. 10, 10s., leaving L. 55 amongst 44 persons, L. 1, 5s.
each. The munificent
bequest of the late Mr Burnett of Aberdeen to the kirk-session of the
several parishes in the county of Aberdeen for behoof of the poor, affords
a payment to each parish once in about eight years. This has been employed
by the kirk-session of Lonmay as a floating fund to meet exigencies. Very
few applications are made personally for aid. Support is professedly not
the system, and relief is afforded in as quiet and efficient a manner as
possible, so as to go hand in hand, without interfering, with private
charity. The field, however, we are sorry to observe, has for some years
past been growing more extensive, and difficulties are sensibly felt in
dealing prudently with the evil. There is now introduced a very guarded
observance of the law of settlement, which has occasioned a great
watchfulness of the characters and regard to the circumstances of new
comers, both on the part of the kirk-sessions and heritors.
Fairs.—There are two held annually on the same
ground, one in spring and the other in autumn, for cattle and sheep, and
also for feeing farm-servants. [It is most desirable that order should be
taken to remove by sunset the booths for the sale of spirits, &c. and that
the constabulary force should clear these markets at that time.]
Inns, Alehouses, &c.— Of petty public houses
there are few. Yet these, and the licensed whisky shops, five or six in
number, are to be considered an evil in the parish, and they are in
general truly a curse to the country, affording temptations to
intemperance, which are by no means withstood.
Fuel.—Peat moss is used generally for fuel,
brought from the estates of Crimonmogate and Kinninmonth. The tenantry on
the other estates purchase it at a price which the proprietors have been,
from time to time, advancing; so that, if along with the present high
price of this article, its carriage also was to be estimated at its proper
cost, it would be found to be much dearer than (as it is certainly a much
inferior fuel to) sea-borne coal.
Miscellaneous Observations. The principal
changes in the state of this parish since the last Statistical Account was
published, consist, I. In the great extent of agricultural improvements:
1st, On waste land reclaimed : 2d, Wet land drained : 3d, In very
extensive and substantial inclosures: 4th, In an improved system of
cropping, of breeding stock, and general management: 5th, In additional
plantations, which now begin highly to adorn the face, especially of the
northern half of the parish : 6th, In the increased value of the land, the
total rental being nearly treble of what it was in 1796. II. In the
provision made for the intellectual improvement of the people, which is
vastly increased. III. In the additional accommodation for the worship of
God, by an additional church and preacher. IV. In the external comforts of
the people, as to lodging, neatness of dress, and others which meet the
eye. But then, on the other side of the picture, is to be noted,
straitened circumstances of late years, and want of capital. The tide of
prosperity is at present ebbing, and credit is decreasing as well as cash.
There is a decreased currency, and low prices for produce,—but high rents,
high charges for labour and implements, and a heavy charge for wear and
tear on the farm accounts. Great industry and the greatest possible
frugality are requisite to obtain the means of bare subsistence.
Drawn up in 1835, Revised January 1840. |
