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PRESBYTERY OF DEER, SYNOD OF
ABERDEEN.
THE REV. JOHN CUMMING, MINISTER.
I.—Topography and Natural
History.
Situation,—This parish is
situated upon the east coast of Scotland, in that part of Aberdeenshire
called Buchan; and the town of Fraserburgh is eighteen miles to the west
of Peterhead, and twenty-one miles by the old road, but twenty-six miles
by the new one, eastward from Banff, the next town of any consequence upon
the coast.
Name.—From records of an
old date, it appears, that the name of this parish was originally Philorth;
this being the name of the estate of the patron and principal proprietor.
A town and harbour, however, having been built early in the sixteenth
century, and the town erected into a burgh of regality in October 1613, it
was called Fraserburgh, no doubt in honour of Sir Alexander Fraser of
Philorth, who obtained the charter.
Extent, &c.—The parish is
at an average about 3½ miles broad, and nearly 8 miles long : the land
gradually rising from the coast to its most distant and elevated district.
Owing, however, to one of those irregularities, which were fallen into in
the division of many parishes, the upper part is intersected for the space
of nearly an English mile by the adjacent parish of Rathen. According to
measurement, it contains a little more than 10,000 acres, and though the
soil, like that of other parishes upon the coast, is in many places sandy
and light, yet in others it is partly clay and loam. The rest is more
gravelly, and interspersed with a few mosses and moors. It extends along
the coast about 4 miles, nearly two of which to the south of the town are
low and sandy, bounded by hillocks, overgrown with bent. The rest is rocky
and flat, except Kinnaird's head, a high land projecting into the sea,
which is generally believed to be the "Promontorium Taixalium" of Ptolemy,
being the turning point into the "Æstuarium Varariae," or Murray Frith.
From Kinnaird's head the land trends due west on the one hand, and on the
other makes a curve to the south-east, forming the bay of Fraserburgh. The
sea has receded from the land in some places, and encroached on it in
others. Westward of Kinnaird's head, is a stony beach, evidently thrown up
by the sea. Many of the benty hillocks, which skirt the bay, stand upon
moss or clay; and in 1760, a tree with roots and branches, and a stem
twenty feet long, was found entire under the sand within the high
water-mark. By a strong south-east wind, the sands on this shore, if dry,
are drifted; and, were they not intercepted by the bents, would overspread
the adjacent fields. Bent, therefore, ought to be carefully preserved,
especially that kind of it which grows in the hay here, resembling the
river-bulrush in length of joint, thickness of reed, and largeness of leaf
and top, and which is seemingly upon increase. It would appear that this
parish at one time abounded with wood. Large roots of trees, mostly oak,
still remain in the mosses; and about Philorth House, the seat of Lord
Saltoun, is some old timber, to which several plantations have been added.
But owing to the marine atmosphere, and the strong winds which sometimes
blow here from the north and the east, trees and hedges are reared with no
small difficulty. The only hill of any magnitude in this district is that
of Mormond, covered with moss and heath, standing 810 feet above the level
of the sea, and is the more conspicuous, as the surrounding country is to
a considerable extent low and champaign. In various parts of the parish
are mineral springs of a chalybeate nature; one of which is at the
south-east corner of the town, which has been deemed useful as a tonic for
weak stomachs, and over which a well has been erected for the more
convenient use of those, who choose to avail themselves of it. From the
upper end of the town a bed of limestone runs to the south, out of which a
quarry has been dug, and stones obtained for building the houses of the
town, and the piers of the harbour. There is also abundance of granite in
the upper part of the parish, and ironstone of a good quality also abounds
amongst the rocks on the coast, but which has been seldom wrought, owing
to the scarcity of fuel. Great attention has been paid for many years to
the improvement of roads in this district, and there are now excellent
turnpike roads from this to Aberdeen, Peterhead, Banff, and Strichen.
Being situated upon the coast, the atmosphere
is here temperate, moist, and saline, and, with no mountain but that of
Mormond to attract and break the clouds, there is less rain and snow than
in the interior of the country, and snow, when it does fall, soon
dissolves. Hence it is, perhaps, that we are seldom visited with any
epidemic distemper, and escaped the cholera, when it was prevailing
elsewhere. Upon the south side of the parish flows the water of Philorth,
which takes its rise in the upper district, and increased in its course by
a few tributary streams, discharges itself into the sea. The bay, to which
we have already adverted, is the most interesting natural object at
Fraserburgh. It is about three miles long, and attracts the notice of
every stranger as he approaches the town from the south, and exhibits to
him a beautiful and delightful scene in a fine summer day, when there is
clear sunshine and a profound calm, and many vessels are there riding at
anchor. II.—Civil
History.
Antiquities.—There are in
this parish the ruins of two chapels, one of which was probably a seminary
of considerable repute, as it is called the College, at which some of the
monks of the Abbey of Deer resided. Near this is a well, where the
superstitious practice of leaving some trifle, after drinking of its
waters, obtained for a considerable time; but which now seems to be given
up. At the west end of the town is an old quadrangular tower of three
stories, which formed part of a large building originally intended for a
college by Sir Alexander Fraser of Philorth, who, in 1592, obtained a
charter from the Crown, in which powers were given to erect and endow a
college and university,—to appoint a rector, a principal, a sub-principal,
and all the professors for teaching the different sciences they should
think proper and necessary, —and to make laws for the preservation of good
order, with authority to enforce them. Every immunity and privilege of an
university was granted for it, as appears from the following words of the
charter:—"In amplissima forma, et modo debito, in omnibus respectibus, ut
conceditur et datur cuicunque collegio et univer-sitati intra regnum
nostrum erecto seu erigendo." In 1597, the General Assembly recommended Mr
Charles Frame, at that time Minister here, to be principal; but owing to
some cause, which has not been sufficiently explained, most probably to
the want of funds, the matter here stopped, for nothing farther was done
in it. On Kinnaird's Head another old tower remains, called the Wine
Tower, most probably so called because it was the wine-cellar of those who
at one time resided in the adjoining house, which is now the light-house.
Under this tower is a cave, penetrating into the rock more than 100 feet.
In this parish there are
also some ruins of Danish or Pictish houses, as they are usually called.
These are about 10 feet square, with a door and hearthstone evidently
marked with fire • and which, though insignificant in themselves, serve to
show that the inhabitants of this part of Aberdeenshire were at one time
of Scandinavian origin.
III.—Population.
According to the census of 1791, the
population amounted to 2215; of 1811, to 2271; and of 1831, to 2954: and
by a census lately taken at the request of the General Assembly's
Committee for Church Extension, it was found to be 3080; of whom there are
700 under twelve years of age. It appears that the principal increase was
from 1811 to 1831, which is to be ascribed chiefly to the herring-fishery,
which began to be prosecuted upon an extensive scale in 1815. The
fishermen also marry at an early period of life. The number of marriages
is, at an average, about 36, and of births, 60. But no register of the
number of deaths has been hitherto kept, though the people have been
called upon to avail themselves of it. There is reason to believe,
however, that these do not exceed 50. During the herring-fishery, which
commences in July, and closes in September, there is an increase of the
population of no less than 1200, so that, owing to the activity and bustle
which then prevail, the town and the harbour have a very bustling
appearance. And the herring-fishery having brought to the inhabitants an
increase of wealth, it has produced amongst them a change both as to dress
and diet, in which respect there is here little or no difference from what
is met with in much larger communities.
The number of illegitimate children during the
last three years is 37.
IV.—Industry.
Agriculture.—There are here
three landed proprietors, and the valued rent is L. 3000 Scotch. None of
the proprietors are resident but Lord Saltoun, and he only for a few weeks
in the year. He is not only patron, but the largest proprietor of the
parish, his pro- portion of the valued rent being L. 2266, 13s. 4d. The
real rent has fallen about six per cent. since the year 1815; and, had it
not been for those improvements which have been made in agriculture by the
tenantry, the diminution would have been still greater. All the land is
arable, with the exception of about 80 acres of moss. The farms are in
extent from 50 to 300 acres, and are let for 10s. to L. 3 Sterling per
acre. Though not put up to public roup, they are always advertised for
letting,—the former tent generally receiving a preference, when his offer
is within ten cent. of the highest; and in unfavourable seasons Lord
Saltoun makes liberal deductions to his tenants. The soil here is well
adapted to green crop, and produces all kinds of grain ; so that this
parish not only supplies itself with all kinds of provisions, but annually
exports a large quantity of barley, oats, and potatoes, of good quality.
The distinction of infield and outfield has long ago ceased, and a regular
rotation of cropping is now followed. For that purpose there is here
abundance of manure. Besides an inexhaustible store of shell-sand, and a
constant supply of seaweed or ware, the farmers avail themselves of fish
refuse for manure, of which there is also a large quantity during the
herring-fishery. Bone-manure is also successfully applied to dry soils.
Wages.—The wages for male farm-servants are
from L. 3 to L. 6 Sterling, and for female from L. 1, 5s. to L.2, 10s. in
the half year.
Live-Stock.—The rearing of cattle for the market has always been a
principal object of concern with the farmer; but, owing to the admission
of all kinds, the Buchan, or native breed, which is deservedly esteemed,
has been considerably diminished. There are, nevertheless, many of good
size and quality; and some farmers have of late introduced the Teeswater,
by which it is expected the breed will be improved. The price of cattle
has risen of late, and a new market has been opened for them by
exportation to London, which has hitherto brought a profitable return.
There are no sheep-farms in the parish—a few only are reared upon ground
of inferior quality.
Though many of the fields are inclosed, yet it is much to be regretted,
that the system of inclosure is not universally followed out, and that the
tenantry are still without sufficient accommodation as to dwelling-house
and offices. When any alteration to the better in this respect is
effected, it is generally by the tenant's laying out the money himself,
with consent of the proprietor, who agrees to deduct it at the expiration
of the lease; or then still evades the expense, by requiring of the
incoming tenant to repay it under the designation of "dead inventory;" an
expedient which is no less unfavourable to the interests of the proprietor
than to those of the tenant.
The Town and Civil History of the Parish.—The
town is situated on the south side of Kinnaird's Head, and is nearly of a
square figure; most of the streets crossing each other at right angles;
the lower part of it adjacent to the harbour and the bay. A considerable
number of new houses have been built within these few years; and new
openings are making, and new streets are laid off, according to a plan,
which was resolved upon about twenty-five years ago. There are now 180
tenements, each of which contains from 20 to 22 falls. The price of each
lot is from L. 30 to L. 33 Sterling, besides an annual feu-duty of 4d. per
fall. The old tolbooth, town-house, and cross, were erected by Sir
Alexander Fraser, the superior, and disponed to the feuars by the charter
of erection. The cross is reckoned a fine structure. It is a hexagon with
three equidistant angular abutments; the area of the base is 500 feet; by
nine intrenchings the top is contracted to 23 feet, on the middle of which
is raised a stone pillar 12 feet high. The British arms, surmounting the
armorial coat of Fraser of Philorth, adorn the summit. The jail, though
still remaining, is falling into ruins, and is of no use. Fraserburgh is
one of the old burghs of regality, having its government vested in Lord
Saltoun, the superior, two bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and a
council. His Lordship has the right and the authority of provost, with
power to nominate and appoint yearly the new magistrates and council, with
the advice and consent of the old. By the charter, the feuars and
incorporated brethren of the guild have liberty to exercise all kinds of
trade and merchandise. Those, who are not freemen, may be debarred this
privilege ; but, for a long period, this exclusion has not been insisted
on. The feuars are obliged to uphold the public works of the town ; but,
for doing so, the market customs were granted them; and in lieu of some
privileges which they possessed over commonable lands, they have obtained
others from Lord Saltoun, which now rent at L. 58 Sterling per annum.
These funds have been hitherto applied to repairing the streets, and
opening new ones, but chiefly to bringing water into the town for domestic
use, of which its inhabitants stood in great need, and of which there is
now an ample supply. It is not improbable, however, that this burgh will
soon undergo such a change in its constitution, as has been lately
effected in others.
The Harbour and Trade.—As seamen were wont to seek for shelter to their
vessels upon this coast at an early period, a harbour was built so long
ago as at the beginning of the sixteenth century; being, however, upon a
small scale, and not affording the requisite security, especially against
storms from the north and the north-east, a northern pier, of about 300
yards in length, was begun to built in 1807, and was completed in 1812. It
was soon found, however, that the sea here, though repelled, found its way
into the harbour in a way no less detrimental to the shipping, by a cir-litous
run into it at the extreme point, which, passing along the interior,
produced an agitation to the vessels, against which no mooring could
afford proper security. There was, therefore, much dissatisfaction with it
and complaint; and in order to remedy that evil, and for enlarging and
improving the harbour, an application was made for an act of Parliament,
which was obtained in 1818. A south pier was accordingly built, of
corresponding extent to the north one; and since then, a middle pier has
been erected, broader and even superior to the other two, within which
vessels lie in perfect safety during the most violent storms. The
expenditure upon the whole, since 1807, has been about L. 30,000 Sterling,
and when the contemplated improvements are completed, it will be the best
tide-harbour on the east coast of Scotland, between it and Burntisland,
according to the report of an eminent engineer, Robert Stevenson, Esq. of
Edinburgh. The area enclosed as a harbour is upwards of six Scotch acres,
nearly one-half of which has been excavated along the piers and jetties as
birthing-places. The harbour is of easy access, having a depth of about
six feet water at the piers' head at low water, and of twenty feet at high
spring tides. Being situated at the immediate entrance to the Moray Frith,
and at the northern extremity of a deep and extensive bay, which affords
excellent anchorage for ships of every size, it is of great importance to
the shipping interest in general. There are eight vessels from 45 to 155
tons burthen belonging to the port, and 220 boats engaged in the herring
fishery. The exportations for 1835 of grain, namely of wheat, barley,
oats, pease and beans, were 12,000 quarters; of potatoes 6000 bolls; of
fish, dried and pickled cod, to the value of L. 2000 Sterling, and of
herrings about 16,000 barrels; the herring-fishery giving employment to
1600 people. The articles imported are chiefly timber, coals, lime, tiles,
brick, salt, and goods for shopkeepers, of whom there are 30; and
including innkeepers, there are 28 who have spirit licenses. The harbour
dues were originally only L. 65 per annum, but they ed here at the rate of
4s. 4d Sterling per annum. Coals are now imported here at the rate of 4s.
4d. per imperial boll, from Newcastle and Sunderland; but though this be a
high price for them, they are considered to afford to those who reside in
the town as cheap fuel as peat, which costs about L. 5 Sterling per leat,
including all expenses.
The manufacture of kelp has been so much
affected by the prevailing use of barilla, that the shores here, which at
one time let for L.150 Sterling, for that purpose, do not now bring above
L.15 Sterling per annum. Rope and sail-making are also carried on to a
small extent.
V.—Parochial Economy.
Ecclesiastical State.—There are three
clergymen; the minister of the Established Church, that of the Scotch
Episcopal Church, and that of the Independent congregation. Of the
population there are belonging to the Establishment, 2703; and 377 who are
Dissenters. The parish church, which stands about the middle of the town,
near the cross, was rebuilt in 1802, and is a plain good structure, and
capable of containing 1000 sitters. Part of the sittings are free, and the
rest are all nearly let at from 1s. to 4s. per sitting. The church has a
spire with a bell, which was built by subscription, and cost about L.300
Sterling. A new manse was built in 1818, upon a new site, at the south end
of the town, upon a piece of rising ground, beside the road leading to
Aberdeen and Peterhead. It is a good plain house, but not so large as
other manses which have been more recently built within the bounds of the
presbytery. The stipend is 16 chalders of victual, one-half meal, and the
other half barley, with L. 10 Sterling for communion elements. The glebe,
including the site of the manse and garden adjoining, is only a little
more than four acres and a quarter in extent, and the greater part of it
land of inferior quality. The attendance upon religious ordinances is
considerable, and there are increasing symptoms of religious improvement.
One of the great evils with which religion has had to contend here, as
elsewhere, is the excessive use of spirituous liquors; and not until the
labouring classes themselves come to see the folly and madness of
expending their earnings in their use, will the evil be overcome. Various
regulations have been laid down for restraining their use, particularly
during the herring fishery; but these have hitherto been only partially
observed. Savings'
Bank.—A savings' bank could not be established here until 1830; nor did
the labouring classes seem to have at first that confidence in its utility
to which it was entitled. But it is now succeeding; the amount of the
deposits having been nearly doubled in the course of the present and the
preceding year.
Societies.— There are two societies for the diffusion of religious
knowledge at home and abroad, and one of these has a parochial library,
containing such books only as are calculated to promote that great object.
Education.—The parochial school is attended by
about 100 children, and of these there are generally from 20 to 30 girls.
The salary of the teacher is L. 29, 18s. 10d. Sterling. The amount of fees
is about L. 50 Sterling per annum, and as he has the benefit of Dick's
bequest, and is session-clerk, his income altogether may amount to L. 130
Sterling per annum. The branches taught at the school are, the English,
Latin, Greek, and French languages; writing, arithmetic, algebra,
mathematics, geography, and navigation. The books used are, Wood's English
Collection; Lennie's English Grammar; Simpson's History of England and
Scotland; the Latin classics; Moore's Greek Grammar; Greek New Testament;
Dalzel's Greca Minora; Porquet's Parisian Grammar; French Fables and
Telemaque; Morrison's Book-keeping; Bonny castle's Algebra; Davidson's
Mathematics; Hamilton's Arithmetic; Norris's Navigation; Scott's Beauties;
M'Culloch's Progressive Exercises in Science and Literature; and the
Assembly's Catechism with Scripture Proofs. The interrogatory or
intellectual system was adopted by the present schoolmaster, and continues
to be prosecuted with much advantage to his pupils, and credit to himself.
Besides the parochial school, there are nine others, all upon the
teachers' own adventure; four of them by male, and five by female
teachers. It is usual for parents to place their children when very young
under female teachers, both to preserve them from accidents, to which they
might be exposed, by being allowed to roam in the streets without any one
to look after them, and to prepare them by instruction in the elements of
education for afterwards going to the parochial, or other schools, where
the higher branches are taught. By returns lately obtained, it appears
that there are about 500 children throughout the parish receiving
education at its schools. There are eight Sunday schools, attended by
about 300 children.
Poor and Parochial Funds.—The number of the poor upon the roll is 80, who
are relieved, according to the old system, by collections at the door of
the parish church, which amount to about L 100 Sterling per annum; by the
greater part of the dues for proclamation of banns; and by the interest of
a fund of L.700 Sterling. The fund is made up of bequests from wealthy and
generous individuals, who belonged to the parish, or who had previously
resided in it for a considerable time. The annual amount distributed has
been generally about L. 150 Sterling; but last year it was nearly L. 200
Sterling, and there is no appearance at present of its diminution.
Miscellaneous Observations. From the foregoing
statement, it appears that the town and parish 'of Fraserburgh have
participated in the general improvement of the country since the
publication of the former Statistical Account ; that its population has
had an increase of 865 souls, with a corresponding enlargement of the
town; that a new, capacious, secure, and excellent harbour has been
erected, and the herring-fishery, and other branches of trade, have been
carried on to a considerable extent, and with much success; that a savings
bank has been established, which is now prospering; and that great
attention is paid to the proper education of the young. Various other
improvements are in contemplation, which, by the favour of Divine
Providence, and the spirit of enterprise which now exists, will, ere long,
be accomplished.
January 1840.
Fraserburgh
Past and Present
By John Cranna, Harbour Treasurer (1914) (pdf) |
