west side of
Foudland are in a rotten state, being composed mostly of iron, which
rots sooner than copper.
It may be observed here, that of the beds of rock
which run through Culsamond, the slate-rock is the first on the north,
and that it comes as far south as the northmost part of the Kirktown
Farm. This is succeeded by the Waukmill Bluestone Quarry, without any
split, as the masons call it. There is then, still going south, a small
bed of limestone, which is workable, and has been burned above Largie,
to the west, in the parish of Insch, and, what is remarkable, at the
same distance from the slate-rock as it is found on the sea-coast south
of Troup, near the Melross slate-quarry. South of this limestone bed,
the ironstone begins at a place called the Lady's Causeway, and extends
to the south of the farm of Meikle Ledingham, in this parish. This is
the ironstone direction, north and south. On the west, it extends beyond
Dunnideer, in Insch, and east, through Culsamond, Rayne, and Daviot.
Between this ironstone rock and the granite of Benochee the southern
boundary of the Garioch, is another bed of limestone, which was worked
near Likelyhead, in the parish of Premnay. It is observable that these
beds have been deranged in many places, so that they do not always
appear in the same direction, the dislocated parts being filled up with
stones of a different nature, a plain proof of violent
convulsions in the bowels of the earth at some period.
Alluvial Sand.— On the farm of Pulquhite is
found, at various depths below the surface of the ground, from 6 inches
to 35 inches a bed of rough sand, evidently broken down, and formed of
Benochee granite, and deposited there by the agency of water, in which
it had previously been suspended.
Mountain Subterranean Moss.— On the northern part
of the same farm, at a place now called Mutton Hillock, is a moss about
three feet below the surface of the ground, extending to the distance of
30 or 40 yards from north to south, and, in some places, more than 8
feet deep. The superincumbent soil has been brought from a distance
after the formation of the moss, as it consists of a variety of
materials,—coarse gravel, flint stones, (of which an immense quantity is
dispersed over a great part of the Garioch,) and stones of various sizes
and kinds, some of them fragments of slate-stone from the adjoining hill
of Culsamond. The field in which the moss alluded to is found, is a
plane inclined to the south-east, and the slate-rock is to the
north-west of it. It may therefore be inferred, that the direction of
the great mass of water which superinduced this disposition was from
north-west to southeast.
Ironstones and Iron-ore.—A considerable quantity
of ironstones are found on or near the surface of the ground, and also a
large vein of ironstone stretches from west to east, through the whole
length of the district, passing through the parishes of Insch, Culsamond,
and Rayne. Some of the blocks were sent to Carron, and, it is said,
produced plenty of good iron. The water which runs over these iron-rocks
carries away part of them, which it deposits in various hollow places,
forming bog-iron ore.
Bog-Iron Ore.—At the bottom of the inclined plane
already mentioned, there were found, in cutting a ditch, about eight
feet below the surface, large quantities of this swamp-iron ore mixed
with pulverized oak-wood, part of it in various stages of decomposition.
The mixture was of a beautiful light blue colour, in consequence of the
decayed wood being impregnated with the iron.
Mineral Well at Saughenloan.— Some years ago, a
mineral well was discovered here, but it has not as yet been much
frequented. It is said to have been of use in scrofulous complaints and
in calculus.
II.
—Civil History.
Heritors.—Of these there are five; Gordon of
Newton; Fraser of Williamston; Leith Lumsden, of Tullymorgan; Gammel of
Sheelagreen; and Leith of Cairnhill. The valued rent of the parish is
L.2100 Scots, the real rent supposed to be upwards of L.4000 Sterling.
In 1790, it was rated at L.1150,
Antiquities.—There is, in this parish, part of an
ancient highway. It crosses the hill of Culsamond, near its top, from
the north-west, and had formerly been the road which people took when
travelling on their way to St Lawrence Fair, at Old Rayne, It still
retains the name of the Lawrence Road, and is, to all appearance, nearly
in the same state in which it had originally been, many hundred years
ago. In times long since past, when the woods were haunted by ferocious
wild beasts, and the valleys overrun with rivers and swamps, it was
dangerous to travel in low-lying grounds. Hence, the most ancient roads
traversed the tops of the hills, and, from this circumstance, were
properly termed highways. There appear to have been at least three
sacred fountains in this parish; St Mary's Well, on the farm of Colpie;
St Michael's, at Gateside; and another, at the foot of the Culsamond
Bank, a little west of the Lady's Causeway. On the first Sunday of May,
multitudes resorted to them from distant parts, in the full faith that,
by washing in the stream, and leaving presents to the saints, as their
heathen ancestors did to the spirit presiding over the well, they would
be cured of all loathsome or otherwise incurable diseases. Pieces of
money were always, accordingly, left in the wells, corresponding to the
ability of the diseased person. In digging a drain, at the foot of the
bank, some years ago, when the workman struck his pick into the bottom
of the well which had been there, a large quantity of water sprung up
into the atmosphere, in which he observed a shining substance, which
proved to be a gold piece of James I. of Scotland, in as good
preservation as when it came from the mint. It is now in the Freefield
Cabinet.
The standing-stone in the woods of Newton, near
Pitmachie, has an inscription upon it, supposed to be in Runic
characters, Some drawings of it have been published in the Monthly
Magazine, and also by Pinkerton, but they are far from being accurate.
There is another standing-stone, near the house of Newton, with figures
upon it.
Several arrow heads and axes have been found in this
parish and neighbourhood. In one of the cairns on the farm of Moss-side,
in this parish, was found a large stone-axe, which is now in the
possession of Sir A. Leith of Freefield. These axes were of different
sizes, and made of different kinds of stone. A small one of flint was
found in the parish of Insch about 1827, and is now in the Freefield
cabinet. The finest were of flint. They were used by our Celtic
ancestors, in ages long prior to the Roman invasion, as battle-axes,
spears, or tools for domestic purposes. The largest were generally made
of coarse, but very hard, grey stone, for home use. The smallest were
manufactured from the finest flint, and used as warlike instruments, and
in different ways. Druidical Temples.—Two of these were on the
farm of Colpie, although now almost obliterated. Several urns were dug
up in making a road near one of them.
A Druidical place of worship anciently stood on the
spot which is now the church-yard or burying-ground, and about the
middle of it. It consisted of a circle of twelve upright large granite
stones from Benochee, which were overturned when the first Christian
temple was erected. One of these stones was taken out of the ground in
1821, and now remains above ground, near the spot from which it was dug
up. The other eleven are still under ground. This is a proof that the
first Christian missionaries, in this country, erected their places of
worship as near as possible to the holy hills of the heathens, that the
people might be more easily persuaded to assemble there. In digging out
the foundation stones of an ancient but small building, to which the
last kirk of Culsamond had been attached, there were found below them,
side by side, and at right angles with the wall, the skeletons of two
men in perfect preservation. This happened in the year 1821, when the
new kirk-yard dikes were building.
Burial Cairns—Of these there were, at one time, a
considerable number. There are several on Cairnhill, on the north-east
side of Pulquhite; two on Moss-side, on opening one of which the stone
axe, already mentioned, was found; one on Mellingside; one near Gateside;
and two on Colpie. The one on Moss-side and another at Gateside have not
been opened. But the most remarkable one was discovered on the farm of
Mill of Williamston in the month of May 1812, in an enclosure called the
Liav-park (Saxon Law-hillock Park). In preparing a field for turnip, the
plough, at a spot from which a large cairn of stones and moss had been
removed about thirty years before, struck against something which
impeded its progress. On examination, this proved to be a wooden coffin
of uncommon size, and of the rudest conceivable workmanship. It had been
formed from the trunk of a huge oak divided into three parts of unequal
length, each of which had been split through the middle with wedges and
stone axes, or perhaps separated with some red hot instrument of stone,
as the inside of the different pieces had somewhat the appearance of
having been charred. The whole consisted of six parts, two sides, two
gavels, a bottom, and a lid. Only a small part of the lid remained, the
greater part of it having been splintered and torn up by the plough at
different times since the removal of the stones and moss. All the rest
of the pieces were entire, and, when put together in their original
position, had somewhat the appearance of the body and shafts of a cart.
The coffin lay due east and west, --the head of it being in the east end
of the grave. The sides were sunk into the ground 13½
inches below the bottom piece. In the middle of them, were grooves of
rough and incomplete workmanship, and of the same length as the length
of the bottom, and a very little wider than the thickness of the bottom.
Under the bottom was a bed of tough blue clay three and a half inches
thick, on which and on these grooves it rested. The projecting parts of
the sides rested on a hard oval substance, much mixed with ashes which
had undergone the action of a very strong fire, and on which part of the
grave evidently had been erected the funeral pile. The gavel pieces were
sunk into large holes, and the empty spaces around them filled up with
fine blue sand. In a corner of the inside of the coffin was an urn,
which was broken in the digging out. It had been formed of a mixture of
clay and sand, narrowest at the bottom, very wide at the top, and about
ten or eleven inches deep. After the different pieces were placed in the
grave in their proper order, it appears to have been surrounded with a
double row of unhewn stones to keep the parts firm together, and then
covered over with the moss and stones formerly mentioned. This antiquity
must probably be referred to a period prior to the Christian era.
British Camp.—On the north-east side of the Hill
of Culsamond are the remains of a British encampment, protected on the
northwest side of the hill by double lines of entrenchment, still very
distinct. These lines are in the immediate neighbourhood of a farm town
named Cadden, which name signifies warlike entrenchments, or a place
where soldiers had been stationed to watch the motions of an invading
enemy. There are also still distinct traces of military works on the
west bank of the glen water opposite to Cadden.
Lines of entrenchment are also still visible on the
east side of the hill and camp to protect it on that quarter; and, about
two and a-half miles north of this British camp is the Roman camp at
Glen-meallin, enclosing about 120 English acres. The Romans, in their
march northward, had a camp at Devana, on the north side of the Dee, in
the parish of Peterculter. They must have had also a fort or camp on the
eastmost top of Benochee, about twelve miles from Devana. This is
evident from the remains still visible upon the top, and the existence
of a paved Roman road, 14 feet wide, which, though long covered with
heath, has been traced for upwards of a mile to the north-east. This
road points upon a small fortified post opposite to Pitcaple, placed
apparently for the protection of the Benochee camp, and there is another
larger work on the summit of the Barra hill, near old Meldrum, to
protect it from any attack from the east, and which, in all probability,
as a castellum, served also to protect the castra
æstiva at Glenmeallin.
What was the exact direction of the route of the
Romans from Devana to Benochee may admit of a dispute. Some think they
marched on the right of Achlae, Fiddy, and Kinmundy, and from thence in
a north north-west direction, till they reached Kintore at Don, and
thence by the strath of the river to the ford of Don at Inverury, which
is very near Benochee. Be this as it may, it is certain that they had a
station on the eastern summit of Benochee.
III.—Population.
IV.
—Parochial Economy.
Ecclesiastical State.—The far greater part of the
inhabitants regularly attend the parochial church,—only a few families
attending a missionary meeting-house on the farm of Pulquhite. There are
also a few Seceders and Episcopalians, but these have no chapel in the
parish.
The stipend is 124 bolls, 3 firlots, 3
1/5 lippies of victual, one-third of which is bear by the
Linlithgow measure. The meal eight stones per boll. L.60, 19s. has since
been added by Government to make the stipend up to L.150. Glebe about
ten acres.
Education.—The schoolmaster's salary is the
minimum, but he enjoys the benefit of the bequest of the late Mr Dick.
Poor.—The poor are provided for from the weekly
collections, seat-rents, and fines. Besides this, the late Rev. Mr
Findlay, minister of Clat, whose grandfather had been minister of
Culsalmond, left the interest of L.300 for the purposes of assisting the
aged poor. The late Mr Gordon of Premnay and Sheelagreen bequeathed to
the poor the interest of L.600.