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PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD
OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. JAMES WALKER, MINISTER.
I.-TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL
HISTORY.
Name, Extent, &c.—THE
parish of Carnwath is situated in the upper ward of Lanarkshire, 27
miles S. E. of Glasgow, and 25 miles S. W. of Edinburgh. In some of the
old writings belonging to the family of Lockhart of Lee, who is now the
proprietor of the estate, I find it frequently written Cairnwath. The
name is descriptive of the situation of the place, as there is a cairn
immediately west of the house and village of Carnwath, (which will be
noticed more particularly afterwards,) and near the bottom of that cairn
there is a wath, which, as my predecessor remarks, means in the Saxon
language a ford. Such is probably the derivation of the name. The oldest
people in the place report, that the wath or ford at the cairn was
almost the only pass across the burn of Carnwath at all practicable
before it was confined by a cut being made within a narrower space, and
bridges thrown over it. The parish is very extensive, being 12 miles
from south to north, and 8 from east to west. Its form is pretty
regular, (an oblong square,) and it is bounded on the west by the parish
of Carstairs; on the east by Dunsyre; on the south by the parishes of
Libberton and Pettinain; and on the north by West Calder.
Topographical
Appearances.—There are no mountains, or even hills, which deserve the
name, though there are two ranges of high ground which run through the
parish, but which, even at their highest point, do not exceed 1200 feet
above the level of the sea. The low and flat lands consist either of
flow-moss, of which we have still a large extent, or holm, which
stretches along the banks of Clyde and Medwin, marking the south
boundary of the parish. The climate is such as is experienced throughout
Scotland at the same altitude above the level of the sea,—about 600 feet
being the lowest elevation of any part of the parish; and though there
are still cases of rheumatism to be found among the inhabitants, they
are certainly fewer than they were, owing, no doubt, to the drainings
which have been executed to a great extent in every part of the parish
within the last forty years. [I have observed more cases of cancer in
the lip than of any other disease; but these are not to be ascribed to
any thing peculiar to the climate, but to the smoking of tobacco, and,
especially, to the manner which I have seen that done. I once went into
a house where a man was in the last stage of a disease of the kind. He
was still able to take his pipe, and, to my horror, I saw him hand it,
when done, to one of his friends, who again handed it to another; and
both seemed to enjoy it as much as if it had never come in contact with
such a disease.] No distemper, indeed, seems to prevail more than
another, or can be attributed to the influence of the climate.
Hydrography.—There are
several mineral springs in different parts of the parish, but I am not
aware that any of them have been analyzed, or have attracted particular
notice.—The only loch worthy of notice is what is called the White Loch,
immediately west of the village of Carnwath. It covers about 30 acres,
is of considerable .depth in some places, and finely wooded on the south
and west sides. It is more than a mile in circumference. A small kind of
perch is the only fish found in it, and it is chiefly remarkable as the
great rendezvous of the curlers of the district around. Besides eight or
nine rinks, as they are called, each rink consisting of eight
individuals, whom the parish supplies, and who are to be seen contending
with each other in generous rivalship, the curlers from other parishes
also frequently meet here to decide the contest, and sometimes upwards
of 200 combatants have been arrayed against each other on the slippery
bosom of the loch. [In the end of the year 1832, a curling club was
founded in the parish, under the auspices of Alexander Macdonald
Lockhart, Esq. It consists of sixteen members, all resident; or born
within the barony of Carnwath. The club can, by means of its members,
have two games going on at once, each member playing two stones. This is
not the common way of playing the game in this country, where each
player appears upon the ice with only one stone. Sixteen people are thus
brought into close contact; but the noise and confusion thus created are
far from adding to the beauty or interest of the game.]
Mineralogy.—On the north
side of Dippool, coal, iron, and lime-stone are all to be found. The
ridge of ground immediately north of its banks is chiefly filled with
limestone, which is wrought extensively, and is the great depot from
which this useful manure is supplied to the surrounding country for many
miles. It rises gradually from the moss on the north bank of the above
rivulet, and which is generally improved to the extent of half a mile;
and the whole of the south acclivity from Westshiel to Eastsidewood has
been partially wrought. The metals on this side are disposed as under:
After a tirring, as it is called, of from 20 to 27 feet, comes the
limestone, generally about 6 feet in thickness,—and under it, again, is
found a seam of coal of 18 inches, which is generally sufficient for
burning the limestone. All these dip towards the north or top of the
ridge, while on the opposite, or north side, from the top of the ridge
to Cleughburn, where the limestone shows itself; in great abundance, the
dip is to the south. Troubles, as they are here called, frequently show
themselves in the limestone, and add greatly to the expense of working
it. These troubles are from 4 to 6 feet in thickness, imbedded in the
limestone, and they frequently cut it off altogether, but make no change
in the coal or sandstone: and when cut out, which is done with great
labour and expense, the limestone is found of equal quality with what
was formerly obtained. They are formed of a substance here called Sklut,
which, though unable to withstand the influence of the sun or the action
of the atmosphere, which soon crumbles it to pieces, resists the
operation of fire: hence they are generally employed for building the
sides of the kilns in which the lime is burned. To give some idea of the
disadvantage arising from these troubles, it may be mentioned, that the
range of working at one of the most extensive lime-works on the south
side of the ridge is about forty yards, and in that space one or more of
these troubles are always met with.
On the north side of the
ridge above-mentioned, down to Cleughburn, presenting an extent of
ground greater than the south side, the limestone is equally abundant,
but, being unaccompanied with coal, has probably from this cause never
been wrought to the same extent.
On crossing Cleugh-burn,
an immense field of coal presents itself, and from thence to the
northern boundary of the parish, it is believed that an inexhaustible
store of this, as well as oilier minerals, is laid up. The coal has been
wrought for time immemorial, but only partially, till about fifty years
ago, when two brothers of the name of Wilson, Swedish merchants in
London, commenced an iron foundry near a place called Forkens, and in a
few years Wilsontown rose into existence.
Wilsontown Iron-works.—In
the year 1779 the Messrs Wilsons commenced their preparatory operations
for the iron-works; and, in 1780-81, began the manufacture of pig iron.
The difficulties they had to contend with were numerous, and various.
The coal, where previously wrought, was found not well adapted to their
purpose; and though they had a sufficient supply at a greater depth of
the very best kind, yet, from the quantity of water in the pits opened,
and which (from the direction of the strata and the nature of the
surface rendering it impossible to obtain a level) could only be cleared
away by means of horses, they were forced to give up the attempt, and to
return to the coal where they first started. With the supply which this
field afforded, the work went on with varied success, till in 1787
another furnace was built, and another blowing-engine of greater power
was set agoing. In 1788-89, a steam-engine was erected to draw off the
water from the minerals, and a large field of coal, extending both ways
along the bearing of the strata, was thus obtained. The work was now
carried on with spirit, the weekly produce of the furnace increased,
and, occasionally, a second furnace was set to work not only pig-iron,
but great quantities of ballast for ships, and of shot, from 4 to 18
pounders inclusive. Pipes of various kinds, &c. were made. In 1790-91,
an extensive forge for the manufacture of blooms was erected; but this
had not been at work above one year, when, unhappily, a misunderstanding
arose among the partners, and a law-suit took place, the issue of which
was a dissolution of the copartnery; and, under the authority of the
Court of Session, there was a sale of the works, lands, &c. which
belonged to the Company. John Wilson Senior, of London, one of the
former partners, became the purchaser. During the dispute the forge had
been stopt, and only one furnace was kept going; but after the sale in
1798, the forge was again put to work with an addition of two hammers,
and the two furnaces again brought into full operation. In a little
time, too, a rolling-mill, on a most extensive scale, and fitted to roll
and slit all kinds and sizes of iron, was built, and set to .work; a
powerful blowing engine was erected; and the weekly produce of the
furnaces, which before this seldom exceeded twenty, was now increased to
forty tons. A lease of Climpy coal was also at this time obtained, and a
village built there, for the accommodation of the workmen. A chapel,
connected with the Relief, was built in the middle of that village, and
a minister ordained by the Relief presbytery; in a word, in every
department prosperity seemed to smile. The coal and iron-stone mines,
the furnaces, the forges, the rolling-mill, the shops of smiths,
carpenters, engineers, and mill-wrights, all were crowded with workmen.
At the census taken in 1807, there were depending on the work for their
support upwards of 2000 souls, and the monthly payments to the various
work-people were not less than L.3000.
This seeming prosperity,
however, soon vanished; for in 1807-8 the company became embarrassed, a
severe depression in the iron trade increased this embarrassment, and
made it fatal; and, in 1812, the works were stopt, and the whole
population turned adrift upon the world. From that period, till 1821,
they continued unoccupied, the machinery, of course, rusting, and the
houses falling into ruins, when they were purchased by Mr Dixon of the
Calder ironworks, whose son, Mr William Dixon, is now the proprietor.
The failure of the
Wilsontown iron-works gave a dreadful blow to the prosperity of that
part of the country in which they are situated, and was felt not only in
this parish, but in all the parishes around. It closed a market to the
proprietors and tenants for almost every kind of produce they had for
sale, and which they found ever ready and convenient. Many of the
labourers, too, had all their hard-earned savings embarked with the
company, and were in a moment reduced to a state of beggary; and of the
old and infirm, many who hoped to spend their old age in comfort and
independence; were added to the paupers' roll. Even to this day, indeed,
the parish feels, in this way, the effect produced by the failure; for
though many of those who were thus ruined in their circumstances are
dead, yet not a few still remain to swell our assessment. In a word, it
may fairly be questioned whether the erection of Wilsontown iron-works
was advantageous to the parish or the contrary. They no doubt gave an
impetus, while they flourished, to improvements, which probably
otherwise would never have been made; but there can be as little doubt
that they-have brought burdens on the heritors which they would never
have been called to bear. As happens in most cases, where such a
population has been collected, the morals of the people have also
suffered severely, and the religious character of the former inhabitants
has been exchanged for indifference and lukewarmness. But of this
hereafter.
The advantageous
situation of Wilsontown as an iron work will best appear from a sketch
of the minerals connected with, and belonging to it.
The Wilsontown coal-field
lies in the form of an elliptical bason or trough, bearing east of north
to west of south about three miles. The dip is at right angles to the
bearing, and is in general about one to seven or eight.
The main coal, called the
"four feet coal," is the lowest; above it are several thinner seams,—one
of which, resting on a stratum of fire-clay, is about two feet in
thickness, and has been wrought occasionally, both for. the use of the
works and for sale. The accompanying strata are numerous and
various,—sandstone or freestone of different texture and hardness, fakes
of various colours, blaes, (bituminous shale and slate-clay,) fire-clay,
small ribs of ironstone, &c. Above these, and about thirty fathoms above
the main coal, there is a stratum of limestone of excellent quality. It
is five feet thick, and from it has been taken the whole supply for the
use of the furnaces, and all the numerous and various erections since
the commencement of the works. About fourteen fathoms below the major
coal are strata of blaes, varying in thickness from fourteen to twenty
feet, while on the top of these lies the great freestone rock, from
which have been taken all the stones for furnace hearths, and for
building both works and village. A few feet under this rock are several
strata of ironstone about three or four inches thick, which, when stript
of the blaes, are to be seen lying in the form of parallelograms and
squares, and which, though in close contact with each other, do not
adhere; and, though of different sizes, present the appearance of a
regular laid pavement. In the lowest part of the blaes are several
strata of ironstone, all wrought together in one mine. The uppermost of
these, seldom exceeding three inches thick, is called the "spotted
stone," from its being mixed with small shells of a yellowish colour.
Next is the ball stone, which do not always lie in close or even
continued succession, are sometimes large and sometimes small, and have
sometimes gone out altogether, but are generally, in this case,
succeeded by a close stratum of spotted stone. Two feet below this,
there is a thin stratum, called from its colour the black band; and two
feet, or little more, below it, lie the great bands. This is the
strongest of them all, being six or seven inches thick, lying also in
the form of pavement. In some of the hitches or leaps of this stratum
pieces of lead have been found. Ten or twelve fathoms below this, is a
stratum of excellent light or candle coal, which, in the old company's
time, was wrought to some extent. It varies in thickness, being on the
north-east border of the field, near the boundary of the county, not
above sixteen inches, while on the south-east, at Tashy-burn, it is two
feet thick.
The Climpy field of coal
lies on the west side of the Wilsontowh,—the crop of the one nearly
approaching the other. It is undoubtedly of great extent. Its general
bearing is the same as Wilsontown,—stretching to the south-west into the
lands of Birnie-hall and Abbey, in the parish of Carstairs; and to the
north into the lands of Muldren, in the parish of West Calder. There can
be little doubt but the Wilsontown, Cleugh, and Climpy fields of
minerals are only successive continuations of the same strata; and it
may be worthy of remark here, that the same strata make their appearance
a great way to the east. On the farm of Mosshatburn-foot, they are to be
seen cropping out, apparently stretching away towards the lands of
Wester and Easter Mosshat. At Mosshatburn-foot, indeed, the Wilsontown
company wrought a considerable quantity of the same kind of stone, with
the spotted stone at Wilsontown; and it is not unlikely that the
'limestone formerly wrought at Easter Mosshat and Urates (or Wolfrod)
may be the same with the Climpy and Wilsontown, though perhaps
differently modified.
There are no dikes,
properly so called, in the Wilsontown coal field, but there are several
slips or hitches, as they are here called, of some consequence. The
second, from the south-west, may be distinctly seen in the Burn, a few
yards above the bridge at Cleugh. It throws the strata a long way down
to the north-east; and a section of the strata between the main coal and
the Wilsontown spotted stone is at the above place finely displayed. At
a considerable distance farther east, another slip or hitch up shows
itself to from eighteen to twenty feet, and here may be seen an instance
how slips sometimes derange the strata; for while on the south-west, or
low side, the distance betwixt the main coal and the craw coal, next
above, is in general about. fourteen feet; on the north-east, or upper
side, the space is only about two feet. Still farther east, a fourth
slip throws the strata again up, perhaps even more than the last; and
here another instance of derangement presents itself, and that in the
stratum of coal itself. Throughout the field to the south-west of this,
there is a thin stratum of black stone in the coal, about eight or ten
inches above the pavement, on the top of what is called the ground coal.
This ground coal differs in appearance from the coal above it, called
the wall coal. It is of a clear shining black, of a loose texture, and
breaks into small cubes; whereas the wall coal is of a much firmer
texture, of a splint) nature, and much of it of a rough fracture.
Besides these, there is betwixt the two slips a very little above the
black stone, a stratum of very good candle coal, from four to five
inches thick; but after passing the last mentioned slip, none of these
are to be seen, while a stratum of blackish stone, of a foot to eighteen
inches, shows itself, dividing the bed or seam of coal into strata of
nearly equal thickness, and without increase or diminution of quantity
upon the whole.
The fissures or veins are
not what practical men call direct, but sometimes incline to the right,
and sometimes to the left. The second and third formerly mentioned
incline to each other, and will at last meet, unless, indeed, they are
partially deranged, or cut off altogether by the twisting and bending of
the strata at the hollow of the trough, which, indeed, there is reason
to suspect, as they have not been seen in the Climpy field.
From what has thus been
stated respecting the minerals laid up at Wilsontown and in the
neighbourhood, it will readily be seen how advantageous the situation is
for an iron-work. Every thing required is here brought together; and in
such quantities too, that I find it reported by a person employed in
1797 to examine the state of the minerals, that, "from what he had
explored, 40,000 tons of iron might be made annually for the space of
ninety years! that the supply of ironstone is inexhaustible," &c. [The
above was communicated to me, in so far as the minerals of Wilsontown
are concerned, by Mr James Meason, formerly a clerk at the works, and
now teaching a small school in the village of Forth. The distance of
Wilsontown from the sea is no doubt a great drawback on the works,—the
iron having to be conveyed to Borrowstounness, a distance of eighteen
miles. This the Union Canal will, perhaps, in some measure remedy.]
II.—CIVIL HISTORY.
Antiquities.---There are
few antiquities in the parish worthy of notice. The cairn or moat at the
west end of the village, to which reference has been already made, is
evidently artificial, but at what time it was raised, or for what
purpose, I have been unable to ascertain. It is of a form somewhat
elliptical, the diameter from east to west being longer than from north
to south. There is a hollow on the top, where, it is said, there was the
entrance to a rude stair that reached to the bottom. This has suggested
the idea, that the moat was intended as a burying-place, though
tradition speaks of it as a place of concealment for the plate, &c.
belonging to the family of Carnwath, in the troublous times of Bruce and
Baliol. It has evidently been a place of strength, as it is surrounded
by a deep ditch, and large mound, [The Sommerville papers mention this
mound as a memorial of the first Baron SommervilIe's firm adherence to
the "Brucean interest," in opposition to the "Balliol faction." Thus,
after stating, that "during all the days of his Iife he was a constant
follower of King Robert Bruce, and ane adherer to his sane King David's
interest when it was in the most desperate condition," they thus
proceed: "Witnes his casting up a quantitie of earth, of his lands upon
the south-west of Carnwath toune, which makeing a little hill, 'tis
called yet, omnis terra. This was the custome of these tymes, by which
homage they that held the King of Scotland supreme under God wer
distinguished from the BalIiol party, or such as owed any homage to he
King of England." Of such a custom we have no trace, so far as I know,
in Scottish history—and the name omnis terra, I never heard applied to
the mound in question—and perhaps, After all, it may be regarded only as
a look-out station, connected with Couthalley castle, as it commands an
extensive view of the country around, and is distinctly seen from the
opposite side of the moss, where the remains of the castle stand.]
though for what purpose it was raised must remain unknown. The present
proprietor, Sir N. Macdonald Lockhart, Bart., has, during the last
season, encircled it with a ditch and hedge, and planted it with hard
wood, the Scotch fir never having thriven well upon it. These trees ,a
colony of crows has now taken possession of, and seems determined to
destroy, by the load of nests,—having, it is worthy of remark, returned
only lately, after an absence of forty or fifty years.
North and west from the
cairn, on the other side of the moss, are the ruins of Couthalley
Castle, formerly the residence of the ancient family of Sommerville, one
of the most opulent and powerful families in this part of the country,
about the middle of the twelfth century. Hither James the Sixth seems
frequently to have repaired, perhaps to enjoy his favourite sport of
hunting, and here he seems also to have sometime spent a considerable
portion of his time, 'as some of the charters granted by him are dated
at Couthalley. [The castle of Couthalley, according to the Sommerville
papers, was burned down in 1320, and there is no record, so far as I
have been able to ascertain, when or by whom it was rebuilt. It was
burned, no doubt, during some of the inroads of the English, which were
so frequent at the time, and led to the building of what is called in
the above-mentioned papers "the double tour in Carrtwath towne." Of this
"double tour" not a vestige remains, though the situation of it is
marked out by certain lands being still called Castle Sommerville.] The
castle is now a complete ruin, though its extent may yet be marked; and,
from its situation, surrounded on every side by a deep ditch and earthen
mound, with a drawbridge on the west, it must have been a place of very
great strength. It is situated on the property of John Wilson of
Westsidewood, but Sir N. Macdonald Lockhart, I3art. is the hereditary
Keeper of it.
But the most perfect
piece of antiquity which is presented in the parish is the aisle which
we have already mentioned, and which, though built in 1424, retains much
of its original beauty and grandeur. It is a Gothic structure, covered
with freestone flags; and the north window especially appears to have
been a beautiful piece of workmanship. It has, successively, been the
burying place of the Sommerville family, of the Dalziels, Earls of
Carnwath, and now of a branch of the Lockhart family. The church, to
which, no doubt, it was attached, and of which it formed a part, was
founded in 1386, and endowed by the existing Lord Sommerville in 1424,
with some lands, which the relict of one of his successors in vain
endeavoured to resume. It was founded for a provost and six prebendaries,
and there was at the same time, and by the same person, provision made
for the maintenance of eight poor old men; but when or how this
provision ceased is now unknown.
III.-POPULATION.
The number of uninhabited
houses arises from the breaking up of the Wilsontown iron-works, which,
though begun again, are carried on upon a very different scale.
IV.-INDUSTRY.
Agriculture and Rural
Economy.—According to Forrest's map, there are 25193 acres Scotch
measure in the parish. Of these not more than one-third are in
cultivation.
Husbandry.—Irrigation is
carried on to a considerable extent in many parts of the parish, though
in very few scientifically,—most of the farmers and proprietors seeming
to imagine that there is no difficulty in laying out and managing a
water meadow. The general duration of leases is nineteen years. The
state of farm-buildings is improving": the byre, the stable, and the
barn all seem to occupy the chief attention in rearing a steading in
this country; and though on the estate of Carnwath there are now a
number of excellent dwelling-houses, yet, generally, the accommodation
of the farmer's family seems to have been only a secondary
consideration.
The systems of
agriculture pursued in the parish are different in different situations.
On one side there is strong and wet clay, and on another a light
gravelly soil ; in one part a deep black loam, and in another little
else but moss. The same rotation, therefore, and the same mode of
management cannot be pursued. From Dippool, a small rivulet which
divides the parish into nearly equal portions, to the north boundary,
clay and moss generally prevail ; and though great improvements have
been made on both, the close retentive bottom of the one, and the
immense depth of the other, baffle the attempts of the husbandman. South
from Dippool to the Clyde and Medwin, the soil and climate are very
different; and though there are in this part also immense fields of
moss, yet the most approved systems of agriculture are generally
followed. Little wheat is, indeed, sown, but there is a great extent of
turnips and potatoes, barley and oats, hay and pasture on every farm.
The rotation followed in
this part of the parish is generally as follows:-1st, Oats after hay, or
two years' pasture. 2d, Turnips or potatoes, the turnips either shaved
and rooted, and carried home to the feeding stock and cows, or ate off
by sheep. 3d, Barley or oats, sown down with grasses of various kinds,
viz. ryegrass, .red, white, and yellow clover. The four-course shift, as
it has been called by agriculturists, was followed here for a course of
years, and is in some cases still retained, but it has been found by our
experienced farmers far too severe, and has been given up. The
introduction of bone dust for raising turnip forms a new era in the
history of the agriculture of this district, and promises to be of
essential consequence to the farmer. It was introduced only about five
years ago by one of our oldest and most enterprising farmers, and there
is hardly any one of capital on this south side of the parish who does
not use it. The turnips raised by it are generally ate off by sheep, and
thus, while the sheep pay well, the field is left in the very best order
for barley, with grass seeds. By the use of it, too, the manure made at
the steading by the cattle fed there, and the cows kept, which are both
numerous, can be applied to other grounds, or the farmer is enabled to
extend his quantity of green crop. The bone dust has been confined here
chiefly to the raising of turnip ; but Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart,
Bart. when factor on the estate of Carnwath, applied it to top-dressing,
and with every promise of success. A very different mode of culture is
followed in the northern part of the parish. Oats are chiefly raised;
and only as many turnips as will keep a few cows giving milk through the
winter, while the quantity of potatoes is generally restricted to what
is necessary for family use. This is caused by the nature of the soil,
which is generally a wet clay, lying on a close bottom of till. Some
most successful attempts have been made, however, of late to introduce a
much greater extent of green crop into this part of the parish; and in a
few years as great a change may be expected on the clayey, as has
already been made on the mossy grounds.
The latter, however, have
occupied the chief attention of the farmer in this quarter for a number
of years back; and I may state, that within the last thirty years there
has been taken out of moss, and brought into crop, from 800 to 1000
acres. The greater part of this ground was unproductive, being saturated
with moisture, and incapable of being pastured. Where any thing like
grass was produced, it was generally cut in the month of August, and
converted into a kind of meadow hay, but of so coarse a kind that it was
of little use, except for litter. In places, however, where this used to
be the only produce, we have now most luxuriant crops of oats and hay,
and even of rich pasture. The mode followed in operating this wonderful
change has generally been the following: The field is first laid dry,
dug, limed, and dunged, and two crops of oats taken. It is then sown
down with rye-grass, Yorkshire fog, and white clover, and left to lie
some years in grass. At the end of this period it is taken up again, and
one or two crops, as before, are received from it, when it is again laid
down, dung being applied with the crop, among which the grass-seeds are
sown, and, if well enough broken, the field is left to be as permanent
pasture. The great expense of digging has prevented "many additional
acres within the bounds of the parish from being cultivated in the same
way; but an improvement has been introduced of late years which promises
to obviate in some measure this difficulty. Wedge-draining has been
followed in some places to a considerable extent, and with complete
success. By the use of it fields of moss, which, in common language,
would not carry a sparrow, have been so completely dried, that the
plough has been introduced, and done its work as successfully as on any
other part of the farm. In almost every corner of the parish
improvements of the above descriptions have been in progress, within the
last twenty years especially, and most successfully on the properties
which lie on the banks of Dippool, Medwin, and Cleughburn.
Dairy System.—The dairy
system is carried on almost on every farm to a great extent, and with
great success. Some of the farmers keep twenty cows, and the prizes
awarded by the Highland Society to the district for the best managed
dairy, and the best made cheese, have, in almost every instance, found
their way to this parish. The cheese is of the kind called Dunlop, and
most of it is carried to Edinburgh, where it is sold at from L. 2 to L.
3 per cwt.
Rent of Land.—The rent of
land per acre is very different, according to circumstances and
situation. Thus, immediately around the village of Carnwath, L. 4, and
even L. 5 are paid for an acre, and four guineas is the common grass
mail for a milk cow, while not much more than a mile from the same
village, a hundred acres will not bring much more than any of these
sums. In the upper part of the parish the same disparity prevails, but
it may be mentioned, that, after the most minute investigation, the
present incumbent, in 1822, gave in the rental to the Court of Teinds at
L. 14,000 a-year. Since that period lie has no reason to think that it
is lessened, though the liberality of Sir C. Macdonald Lock-hart's
deductions to his tenants have been such as to reduce it somewhat, so
far as he was concerned.
Rate of Wages.—The wages
of a good ploughman are from L. 6 to L. 8 a half year; of a female
servant, from L. 3 to L. 4 for the same time; of a labourer, from 1s.
6d. to 2s. a day, in summer; of a shearer (man) L. 2, of a woman 35s.
Breeds of Live Stock.—It
can hardly be said that there is a flock of sheep in the parish, though
we have them of all kinds, as black-faced, Leicester, and Cheviot. The
first are bred on the moorland and high part of the parish; the second
fattened on some of our best farms; and the third only are bought in, to
eat off the turnip in winter. The breed of cattle is chiefly what is
called the Ayrshire. The cows are almost. universally Ayrshire, as these
are accounted best for the dairy; and while - the quey calves are reared
in numbers, and with the utmost care, the bulls are fattened and sent as
veal to the Edinburgh market.
V.-PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Village.—The village of
Carnwath is much changed for the better, within the last twenty years.
Formerly its streets were encumbered with dung-hills and peat-stacks,
which are now all swept away ; and even the old houses now present an
appearance of comfort and cleanliness. Many of the new houses are
handsome; and should Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart, Bart. succeed in his
plans of feuing, which he has already done to a considerable extent, the
next. twenty years will do more for its improvement than even the last.
Means of
Communication.--The roads throughout the parish are in a far better
state than formerly; and there is one change which deserves to be
particularly marked, as by it the neighbouring parishes are in a manner
brought nearer to each other, and a new thoroughfare is opened to the
country at large. The Clyde, which is the boundary of the parish on the
south and south-west, often overflows its banks, and even long before it
does so becomes impassable by the fords. For at least nine months in the
year the parishes of Pettinain and Carnwath were thus separated by 8 or
9 miles. To this I have been exposed even in the month of July, while
the distance betwixt the one place and the other was not above 22 miles.
This led the proprietors on both sides to think of some means of
communication more direct and convenient ; and about five years ago a
boat or float was erected, and has ever since continued to ply on the
river, to the immense comfort and accommodation of the inhabitants on
both sides, as well as of the country in general. The float is large,
running upon a chain, and two or even three loaded carts can pass on it
at a time. Thus a new outlet for the lime and coal of the parish is
opened up, and were the roads on each side more improved, they would
obtain a sale much more extended than ever they have yet done. The Clyde
is, indeed, still impassable during some of the winter floods, the holms
on each side being so extensive ; but this continues only for a few
hours, and were the south pier raised a few feet, which the proprietors
talk of doing, the river will be impassable for even a shorter period.
Ecclesiastical State.—The
parish church is most inconveniently situated for the great body of the
parishioners, being placed at the south and west end of the parish.
There are, indeed, only two families immediately to the west, and not
above ten or twelve on the south of the church. Many families are thus
placed six and seven miles from the enjoyment of public ordinances, and
in a high country such as this is, it is not to be expected that in
winter the inhabitants of the upper districts are to attend regularly.
Of them in general, however, I am happy to speak in terms of high
commendation, and many a day their pews may be seen filled, while many
who are within hearing of the Sabbath bell obey not the summons which it
sends forth. The church was built in 1798, and is neither elegant nor
commodious. [The church was last year very much improved, both
internally and externally. The ceiling, which was very much broken, was
completely renewed; the whole interior white-washed, and a stove
erected. I have little doubt, but in a few years, this last improvement
will repay itself, for in addition to the comfort which it yields to the
congregation, it has extracted all the damp from the wood and walls,
which must have otherwise accelerated their ruin.] Being set down close
beside the aisle of the old one, which, though built in 1424, still
remains a handsome Gothic structure ; the contrast only serves to
indicate the different spirit in which these things were gone about in
the fifteenth and in the eighteenth century.
It is seated for 1100
people, and is, of course, too small for our population, and were it not
for the accommodation afforded by dissenters, many of the parishioners
would have no opportunity of receiving religious instruction. At our
communion, indeed, a large body of the communicants are obliged to be
without doors altogether. The seats erected for the communion table
were, till within these few years, appropriated to the use of the poor,
but one of them is now occupied by an heritor and his family, of course,
with the consent of the other heritors.
The manse was built in
1817, and is, upon the whole, substantial and convenient. The glebe
consists of ten acres, lying immediately round the manse, and since the
improvements made upon it, by ditching, draining, and levelling, is not
unproductive. It is worth L. 2 per acre, though the land in the crofts
around the village brings a much higher price, people paying for
convenience, rather than going to market for every thing they need. The
amount. of stipend is 16 chalders, 8 of meal, and 8 of barley, and L. 10
for communion elements.
There are no chapels of
ease, though, from what has already been stated respecting distance, and
considering that the population of Wilsontown, [The villages are
Carnwath, containing upwards of 800 inhabitants, the great body of whom
are employed in weaving, and dependent on Glasgow for employment;
Newbigging 200, entirely weavers;—Braehead a mixed population of 120,
weavers and labourers;—Forth 300, chiefly miners, as being close upon
Wilsontown;—and Wilsontown 400, miners and labourers of all kinds
belonging to the works.] Forth, and the corner of the parish beyond
them, amounts to nearly 1000, there is certainly much need for a chapel
of some kind. In former years this was in some measure remedied by the
Relief chapel already mentioned at Climpy, and by means of a chaplain in
communion with the Established church, kept and paid by the Wilsontown
Company, when in its prosperity. Climpy chapel, however, like the houses
around it, is fast falling into ruins, and Wilsontown chapel, though in
good order, is seldom opened for divine, service. [One of these chapels
might easily be procured, could a stipend be obtained for a minister.
Climpy is, indeed, now at a distance from the great body of the
population, while Wilsontown is almost in the centre, of course the
latter would be by much the more desirable situation. If Government,
therefore, would allow even L. 50, so as to procure a preacher there, it
would be of immense consequence, not only to the parish, but to•the
outskirts of West Calder, and Carstairs. Since the above was written, I
am happy to find, that the present company at Wilsontown have resolved
to employ a preacher of the Establishment to teach and preach at the
works. They intend to carry on the works to a much greater extent than
they have been wrought for many years, which necessarily implies a great
addition to the population, and renders the appointment of a chaplain
the more necessary.]
About three miles north
from this, on the road to Wilsontown, there is a Burgher New Light
chapel, which has been of considerable service in providing
accommodation for our redundant population; and there is no other
dissenting house in the parish. The minister has for stipend, L. 90,
with a house and a few acres of land. The chapel was built and seated
for 400 people, but was contracted some years ago, and there are now
betwixt 200 and 300 joined members. [Since the above was written, a
schism has taken place in this congregation, which has led to the
building of another chapel, in the village of Carnwath, in connection
with the same body. The consequence of this has been increased
difficulties to each of the congregations. The portion of hearers in the
village of Carnwath, being perhaps the wealthiest, brought the former
minister from Braehead to labour among them; but, on what account I know
not, he soon found it necessary to embark for America with his family.
The minister at Drachead, I am told, has now only L. 60, and his
congregation is, of course, minus, by the portion belonging to this
village.]
The attendance on the
Established church is highly creditable to the parishioners ; for on an
average there are upwards of 1100 communicants. This, with the
accommodation originally provided, rendered our service at the Sacrament
of the Lord's Supper very protracted, there being fifteen tables. For
two years back, however, we have contrived to shorten the service, by
obtaining accommodation for forty additional communicants, at each
table, by means of pews at each end of the church, and joining there to
the original communion table. We have thus reduced our number of tables
to ten.
The amount of collections
in the church has fallen off very much within the last seven years,—in
consequence, chiefly, of the increase of assessments laid on the parish
for the support of the poor. This falling off has been from L. 80 a year
to no more than L. 40. The heritors have now to provide from L. 144 to
L. 186 of assessment.
Education.—There are at
present eight schools in the parish ; ,even besides the parochial
school, which, like the church, is most inconveniently situated for the
general population of the parish. The parochial teacher has the maximum
salary, and is otherwise well provided with an excellent school and
dwelling-house; but the others have no salary, and in some cases have
even to provide a school-house for themselves. The parochial teacher
receives yearly from school fees about L. 37; and his other emoluments
amount to L. 14.
The people are in general
anxious to obtain education for their children, and the heritors
laudably pay for the families of paupers ; perhaps there are no persons
in the parish who are unable to read.
Poor and Parochial
Funds.—There are 46 regularly enrolled poor, and 16 occasional. The
average sum allotted to each i from L. 2, 1Os. to L. 3 per annum.
Library.—There is a
subscription library in the village of Carnwath.
Fairs, &c.—There are five
fairs in this village in the year, and a weekly market, which is devoted
solely to the sale of meal and barley. One of these fairs, which is held
in July, is chiefly for hiring shearers, and for the sale of cows and
young horses. In another, about the middle of August, lambs form the
staple commodity, though there are a great number of young horses also;
and on the day after the fair a foot race is run, which deserves
mention, as it is one of the tenures by which the property of Carnwath
is held by the Lockhart family. The prize is a pair of red hose, which
are regularly contended for, and the old people in the village tell me,
that, fifty years ago, the laird used to have a messenger ready,
whenever the race was finished, to communicate the intelligence to the
Lord Advocate of Scotland. This prompt information is now, I suppose,
dispensed with ; but I can testify that the race has been regularly run
for the last twenty-five years. The day is indeed regarded as a holiday
by the people for many miles round, and the scene has been made still
more attractive by the -present proprietor, Sir N. Macdonald Lockhart,
Bart. who, in addition to the red Bose, gives prizes for leaping,
throwing the hammer, putting the stone, playing quoits, &c. The day is
finished with a steeple chase on foot. Other two of the fairs, one in
February, and the other in October, are hiring fairs, as they are
called,—than which, a worse system for obtaining servants never was
introduced into a country. The evil, however, will, I believe, soon cure
itself, for as masters have already begun to feel the consequences of
hiring servants, without knowing any thing of their character, so few
servants of character will go to a fair for the purpose of being hired.
Alehouses, &c.---The
number of alehouses or rather whisky-houses is by far too great; and, of
course, they have the most deteriorating effect on the morals of the
people. This is an evil, however, which it must be difficult to remedy,
so long as the trustees on roads have the power of granting licenses;
because each is anxious to secure to his own particular toll-house that
by which the rent is augmented. Hence there are six tolls in the parish,
and to the keeper of each a license is granted,—and that in some
instances within a very short distance of a licensed inn.
Fuel.-- Our fuel, though
peats are in abundance, consists chiefly of coal, which we have at a
very reasonable rate; a cart load of 12 cwt. costing about 2s. 6d.
Reasonable as this rate is, however, many of the people still lay in a
store of peats, which every householder has a right to cast in some one
of the mosses which are so abundant in the parish.
May 1834. |
