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PRESBYTERY OF ALFORD, SYNOD
OF ABERDEEN.
THE REV. JAMES REID, A. M. MINISTER.
THE REV. WILLIAM REID, A. M. Assistant and Successor.
I.—Topography and Natural
History.
Name, &c.—The parishes of
Auchindoir and Kearn were united by the annexation of Kearn to Auchindoir
in 1811. Previous to this period Kearn was in union with Forbes; but
circumstances of local conveniency having led to a disjunction of these
parishes, Forbes was united to Tullynessle, and Kearn annexed to
Auchindoir. The name Auchindoir, by which both these parishes are now
usually designated, is of Gaelic origin, and is said to signify the "field
of pursuit." This derivation is supported by the historical fact mentioned
by Buchanan, that "Luthlac, son of Macbeth, was slain by Malcolm in the
valley of Bogie." Tradition refers to several tumuli on an extensive moor
(now improved), about two miles south of the church, as the scene of
battle where Luthlac was defeated, and also points out the spot, about
four miles northeast from this, in the parish of Rhynie, where he was
overtaken and slain. The circumstance of his being pursued through the
valley of Auchindoir to the place of his death, may have given rise to its
present appellation. Kearn is understood to be a corruption of cairn,
there being a remarkable cairn or tumulus in that parish; but of the
history of which there is no tradition.
Extent, &c.—These united
parishes form an irregular figure, the length of which is about 7 miles,
and the breadth about the same extent. They are bounded by Kildrummy on
the south; Rhynie on the north; Cabrach on the west; and Clatt and
Tulleynessle on the east. Auchindoir is the much larger parish in point of
superficial extent. Their general aspect is varied and uneven. This
characteristic is particularly applicable to the eastern portion,
comprehending the whole of the parish of Kearn, and the northern extremity
of Auchindoir. The surface here is either raised into long undulating
ridges of extremely dissimilar elevation, or depressed into deep valleys
of every variety of breadth; several of which are marked with features of
a very striking and picturesque appearance. Towards the southern
extremity, the parish is of a more level description, with a gradual
ascent to the surrounding mountains, particularly Correen, round whose
base it sweeps for a distance of five miles. The altitude of Correen is
about 1350 feet. On the west of the parish stands the Buck, or "Buck of
the Cabrach," as it is usually termed, the elevation of which, according
to Ainslie, is 2377 feet. It lies partly in Auchindoir and partly in
Cabrach parish. It is of a very elegant form when viewed from the north
and east, presenting a pyramidical shape, tapering beautifully towards the
top, and crowned with a cluster of rocks placed as if in studied
artificial regularity, by the gigantic efforts of man.
Climate.—The climate of
Auchindoir and Kearn is, on the whole, salubrious. The heights, indeed,
are cold and exposed; but the lower grounds in both parishes are mild,
sheltered, and dry. The distance from the sea, (not less in any part than
thirty miles), and the interception of the easterly winds, by frequent
ranges of hills, exclude those vapours, which bestow, too truly, the
character of dampness, on the climate of the west coast of Scotland. On
the other hand, the westerly winds are often boisterous and stormy, and
the frosts somewhat early, and frequently severe. Snow falls in abundance,
and sometimes lies long; still the climate of these parishes may be
denominated healthy, at least if longevity be the best criterion,—of which
there are many unquestionable instances.
Hydrography.—The quality of
the water in this district is excellent, and its quantity sufficient for
all the necessary purposes of human life and industry. There are no
medicinal springs, properly so termed, although there are various rills
tainted with iron; but neither their strength nor virtues are such as to
merit particular notice. The burns of Craig and Corchinan, which unite and
form the Bogie near to the Manse, take their rise in, and for a
considerable space run through, mossy ground, from which they derive a
strong antiseptic quality, the effects of which have been frequently
ascertained. This is particularly obvious in the preservation (the
reporter may almost say the partial restoration to firmness) of salt water
fish brought from a distance, and deposited, in wicker baskets, under the
running stream for twenty-four or forty-eight hours after their arrival.
It may be mentioned, however, as somewhat singular, that this effect is
not perceptible on what are usually termed flat fish. The Bogie is a
beautiful little river, meandering through a fine valley until it joins
the Doveron at Huntly, about eleven miles from its formation. The Burn of
Craig, its original principal constituent, is rapid and impetuous. The
course of this brook, from its source to its junction with the sister
stream at the commencement of the Bogie, is not more than five miles; but
it presents all the characteristics of a mountain torrent, suddenly rising
to a great height, and as quickly falling to its ordinary level. In
passing through the Den of Craig it forms several beautiful cascades ; one
in particular is very fine, where it is seen leaping from rock to rock in
a zig-zag direction, and finally dashing down a precipice of considerable
altitude. The scenery here is of a romantic description. It may be farther
mentioned that at this place, in the far-famed flood of 1829, the burn was
proved by measurement to have risen 18 feet perpendicularly. The only
other rivers connected with this parish are the Don and Mossat. The Don
forms its boundary for about two miles on the south-east, after receiving
the Mossat, a small stream which divides it from Kildrummy on the south.
Geology, &c.—Freestone of a
very fine quality abounds in one particular stratum in this parish. It
first presents itself in the adjacent parish of Kildrummy on the south,
then passes through Auchindoir, and reaches the confines of Rhynie on the
north, where it dips and disappears. The common whin or moorstone is also
found in huge blocks and immense quantity on the estate of Craig.
Limestone is to be had both on the estates of Clova and Craig, but its
purity is not remarkable, and at any rate, the distance even from imported
coal is so very great, that it has not been found expedient to work the
quarries to any noticeable extent. The asbestos is also found on Mr
Gordon's estate; but in one place only, (a ravine in the bosom of a
mountain,) and in no great quantities. There are also serpentine,
mica-slate, and a course laminated marble, in the hills of Towenreef and
Correen. On the estate of Druminnor there has lately been discovered a
rather singular quarry, affording a hard and heavy stone, somewhat
resembling granite in external appearance, but (unlike granite)
susceptible of being split into slabs of great thinness, and of almost any
length or breadth. These form excellent pavements for footpaths around
farm offices, or for the floors of kitchens or cellars. The soil pf these
parishes is various; towards the hills mossy and poor; but in the lower
grounds sharp, dry, and productive. Where the upper soil is incumbent upon
freestone, it presents a rich fertile alluvial loam. Clay is found in many
places, sometimes in a pure state, but for the most part mixed with sand
and small stones, in different stages of decomposition. In the mosses,
which are extensive, in the western quarter especially, there is plenty of
peat of an excellent quality, and in these mosses there are not
unfrequently found the remains of imbedded trees of considerable size,
chiefly firs, and sometimes oaks and alders.
Zoology.—These parishes
afford roe-deer, grouse, partridges, snipes, and woodcocks; hares and
rabbits. Blackcock and ptarmigan are sometimes seen. There are also foxes,
polecats, weasels, and occasionally badgers; hawks, wild pigeons, and
singing birds of all the varieties known in the north of Scotland. The
breed of cattle is mostly the pure Aberdeenshire; of sheep the Scotch
black-faced and Cheviot kinds. The insects most commonly injurious are the
wasp and caterpillar. The former are usually destroyed, by cutting the
nest at night and letting it drop into hot water, or by blowing it to
pieces by a large charge of gunpowder. The latter are never effectually
removed but by regular hand-picking.
Botany.— The writer of this
article is not aware of any of the rarer plants having been found in these
parishes; but he has reason to affirm that the mountains of Auchindoir and
Kearn, and the plantations and glens within their bounds, contain all the
Scottish varieties that are usually met with.
The plantations are
extensive. On Mr Leith Lumsden's property of Clova, there are several
plantations of thriving Scots fir and larch, and there remain a few
specimens of the former tree in a comparatively low situation, of which
the size is large, and the quality understood to be good. On Mr Grant's
estate of Druminnor there are also promising plantations, though of a
lesser age; and in that part of the parish which belongs to the Honourable
Walter Forbes of Brux, there are similar young woods. Mr Forbes has
planted over a very wide surface, but mostly in the adjoining parishes,
which do not fall within the present report. The most noticeable
plantations in this district belong to Mr Gordon of Craig, because these
(and especially the romantic Den already alluded to) exhibit forest trees
and hard-wood of considerable variety, and demonstrate how much may be
done, by care and perseverance, in the rearing of valuable wood, even
under the opposing obstacles to be met with in a highly elevated country.
Of the sorts which have been successfully cultivated at Craig, the beech,
the oak, the ash and elm, the chestnut, the lime, the sycamore, the
silver-fir, the black spruce, and the larch, are conspicuous. Mr Gordon
affirms that, next to first nursing, the whole art of raising wood
consists in thinning; that wherever forest trees or any sorts of trees are
raised either for cutting or for decoration, it is in vain to expect
success unless a steady, regular, and unsparing course of thinning is
maintained. It is this which enables the ground to bring to maturity a
certain number of plants; it is this which alone contributes to the
indispensable admission of light, and the free circulation of air; and it
is the neglect of this practice which exhibits in many plantations, which
otherwise would have been valuable, stunted and unhealthy trees, covered
with moss, disfigured in appearance and ruined in value. The congeniality
of the soil in this district is decidedly in favour of the larch in thin
dry land; and of beech, oak, ash, elm, and lime, in richer situations. The
pinaster, the Weymouth pine, the balsam or balm of Gilead fir, and the
holly, do not succeed here. In all the plantations in this part of the
country, three facts are observable, 1. that the portion which fronts the
north thrives the best, at least in the earlier stages of growth; 2. that
trees planted on sloping banks prosper better than those on a flat; and 3.
that trees of different sorts intermixed, succeed better than when masses
of the same description are planted together. If there be any exception to
the last rule, it is in the case of the oak.
There are few trees of
remarkable age, size, or figure in these parishes, if we except two
venerable sycamores near to Mr Grant's house of Druminnor, and a few old
ashes round the garden at Craig; one of these (of large stem, and of which
the tradition is that it was planted in 1688,) showed evident symptoms of
decay about fifteen years ago, the tops fading and the trunk spoiling in
the heart. To save it if possible, the proprietor pollarded the tops, and
caused the opening in the stem to be carefully covered over with sheet
lead, in order to exclude the rains. The consequence has been that this
ancient tree is again in vigour.
II.—Civil History.
Eminent Men.—One may be
mentioned, whose talents, learning, and accomplishments seem to have been
considerable, from the terms addressed to him, in a Latin poem of great
power and beauty, by Dr Arthur Johnstone in his "Parerga," published in
1642. This was John Gordon of Craig, born in 1607, the seventeenth in
descent from the principal stem of the family of Gordon, [See printed
tables of the pedigree of the families of Gordon.]—a man who appears to
have been held in great estimation at the Court of James VI.
Antiquities.—The prominent
objects of antiquity are the old parish church, the moat or mount on which
the ancient Castrum Auchindorić, mentioned by Boethius, seems to have
stood, and the houses of Craig and Druminnor. The old church, now a ruin,
is extremely venerable, and every justice is done to its ivy-mantled
walls, by the proprietor on whose estate it stands, in order to exhibit
this impressive object with effect. The fine Saxon gateway or principal
door; the carved representation of our Saviour on the cross, with the
letters j. n. r. j. ; the recess for the elements, &c. with the
inscription immediately over it, Hic e. corp. d. n. j. c. v. m., (Hic est
corpus Domini nostri Jesu Christi, Virginis Mariae); the stone vessel at
the entrance for the holy water, &c. are the clearest indications of its
once having been a Roman Catholic Chapel, though at what precise period it
was converted into the Presbyterian parish church cannot be ascertained.
The oldest date is on the north gable, and bears 1557.
The Houses of Craig and
Druminnor, (still habitable even in their more ancient portions) are of
considerable antiquity, and exhibit many of the characteristics of remote
times ; the oldest date at Craig is 1518; that at Druminnor (which was the
ancient Castle Forbes, once the chief seat of the Forbes family,) is 1577.
Of modern buildings it seems unnecessary to say any thing farther, than
that on all the principal properties, the owners have, by modern erections
or additions, given comfort and embellishment to their several residences.
The proprietors are five in number; Mr Leith Lumsden of Clova; Mr Gordon
of Craig; Mr Grant of Druminnor; the Honourable Walter Forbes of Brux (now
Master of Forbes); and Mr Gordon of Wardhouse. The three first named are
the principal heritors ; and reside either wholly or for a considerable
portion of the year within the parish.
III.—Population.
Within these few years
there has sprung up a village in the parish, named Lumsden, of which the
population at this time is 243. The creation of this village has led to
the sudden increase of the population, by attracting individuals, who
resort to it from all parts of the country. At present there is something
of a counterbalancing decrease in the population, by the disposition to
emigrate, which for two seasons has prevailed, especially among the young
men.
IV.—Industry.
These parishes have never
been entirely surveyed, and, consequently, their precise arable extent
cannot be stated; but it is progressive both in measure and in manner;
both in the reclaiming of land heretofore barren, and in an improved style
of operation. The appearance, comfort, and substantiality of the houses
and cottages are much improved within the last twenty years.
Leases.—The usual duration
of the leases on good farms is nineteen years; on farms more pastoral than
in tillage, seven, nine, and eleven years.
The people are almost all
employed in agriculture and the rearing of cattle. In Lumsden village
there are a few traders and handicraftsmen; and blacksmiths, carpenters,
masons, and tailors, are distributed through the different estates; but
the mass of the population is agricultural, and the people are sober,
frugal, and industrious in their habits.
V.—Parochial Economy.
Market-Town.—The nearest
market-town, with the exception of the village of Rhynie, is Huntly,
distant at an average twelve miles. The road is turnpike, and excellent
from the church onwards. This turnpike runs in whole about seven miles
through the parish. There is a stage-coach which passes through the parish
to and from Aberdeen on every alternate day.
The only village in the
parish is Lumsden, already mentioned. The reporter can hardly say that it
is as yet marked by the more striking features of great prosperity.
Ecclesiastical State.—The
parish church is, on the whole, not inconveniently situated. It was built
in 1811, and its only fault is that it is too small for the existing
population. It contains accommodation for 450 sitters only. There are in
these parishes 10 individuals belonging to the United Secession; 8
Independents; and two Roman Catholics. The members, also, of one family of
the resident heritors are Episcopalians; but the members of this family
regularly attend the parish church, there being no Episcopal place of
worship in the neighbourhood.
The present incumbents of
the parishes under notice are, the Rev. James Reid, and the Rev. William
Reid, assistant and successor. The former of these clergymen was inducted
in 1785, and the latter in 1834. The manse was built in 1764: it is
incommodious, and in very bad repair. The stipend of the united parishes
is L. 150. The proper glebe of Auchindoir is 8 acres in extent; and a
compensation or excambion for the glebe of Forbes affords a rent of L. 8,
2s. 6d.
Education.— There is only
one parochial school for both parishes, with two or three unendowed
schools. The schoolmaster's salary is L. 30; the average amount of
school-fees, L. 21. He has the legal accommodations. The branches of
education taught at the parochial school are, Latin, English, mathematics,
geography, arithmetic, and writing.
Poor and Parochial
Funds.—The average number of poor persons receiving parochial aid is 22.
The annual amount of parish church collections for their relief is about
L. 32, with about L. 14 additional from two mortifications and other
sources. The whole of this is divided among them, and, small as it is, yet
it seems sufficient for supplying their necessities. There is a manifest
reluctance on their part to be indebted to parochial relief, which leads
to industry and economy. For many years, there has been no strolling
beggar belonging to these parishes.
Fairs.—Four cattle markets
are held in the parish during the year.
Inns.— There are one inn
and three ale-houses. The latter cannot be described as a blessing.
Fuel.—The fuel in general
use is peat. Coal is extremely expensive. The carriage of it from the
coast is more costly than the article itself on the shore : and even if
sent for by private carts, the loss of time and labour, together with
expenses for men and horses, raises the price of this best description of
all fuel, to a very heavy amount.
Miscellaneous Observations.
The most prominent
variation between the present state of these united parishes, and their
condition at the date of the former Statistical Report, arises from the
improved state of husbandry; the tillage of waste land ; the superior
style of cultivation; and the adoption of many of those advantageous
changes, both in cropping and in the implements of husbandry, which have
been equally recommended by the precept and example of eminent
agriculturists.
Next in order may be
mentioned the less essential, but certainly not the unimportant
improvements in cleanliness, dress, and modes of living. The becoming
regularity, decency, and attention of the attendants in the parish church
of Auchindoir could not have been improved; it has always been noticeable,
praiseworthy, and exemplary.
The most crying evil here
was the overwhelming concourse of travelling beggars, to whom a mistaken
liberality afforded the temptation to come among us, but whose visitations
were in many ways prejudicial to the parishioners. This burden was
considerably lessened about two years ago, by a general resolution not to
give alms of any sort to stranger beggars, but to confine our parochial
charity to our parochial poor; and the recent institution of a rural
police has added to our security and protection.
The mischiefs of
absenteeism are luckily little felt in these parishes. The presence of
certain heritors for the greater part of the year affords, in the first
place, the facilities of the magistracy, and what is of not less moment,
it sets an example in the way of improvements; it leads to the employment
of tradesmen, to the extension of charities, and to the reciprocities of
kindness and confidence between dissimilar ranks.
October 1840. |
