Fair-haired, blue-eyed, his aspect blythe,
His figure tall, and straight, and lythe,
And every feature of his face
Revealing his Norwegian race.
So sings Longfellow, and his picture applies to the
Waipuans of to-day. They are of the Celto-Nordic breed common to the whole
north of Scotland. The young men and maidens are strikingly handsome, with
ruddy cheeks, and much activity of mind and body. If one were suddenly
dropped amongst them one might readily imagine oneself in Lochbroom or the
Reay Country of McKays. All the older people speak Gaelic fluently, while
the young, if they do not speak it, readily understand it. Owing to the
influx of strangers, intermarriages, and the progress of trade, it is
probable that in another generation or two the Gaelic language will have
disappeared. It is hopeless to expect that in a small country such as New
Zealand different languages and different races can survive.
The Waipuans of to-day never saw Scotland, while their
ancestors left it over 100 years ago. It is,
therefore, strange how they have retained so much of their Highland
customs and speech.
They are an exceedingly hospitable people, but readily
resent any imposition. None of their own people ever suffer from want, for
it is an unwritten law amongst them that the strong must help the weak.
Should a farmer be behind in his work from illness or poverty, or should
the widow and orphan be in want, then their neighbours come to their
rescue. They are all their own lairds, while master,
visitor, or wanderer sit around the one table. This phase of life is a
relic of their early days when distinctions were nonexistent and everyone
sang "We’re a’ John Tamson’s Bairns."
Excepting a few Anglicans, which business and
inter-marriages have introduced, the whole community belongs to the
Presbyterian Church of New Zealand. All the people have comfortable wooden
houses, and if they are not a rich community they have abundance of the
common necessaries of life.
THE CENTRE.
The people apply the name Centre to the area comprising
and surrounding the township of Waipu. It is situated at the spot where
the five streams join which go to form the Waipu River (see
map). Here the first settlers took up their abode, built their church and
school, and so laid the foundation of what some day may be an important
town. At present the township consists of some three dozen houses
sheltering some 200 people
and at present governed by the Whangarei County Council. It has the
makings of a very pleasant country retreat. An excellent and abundant
supply of water can easily be had from the main branch of the river as it
careers madly down the slopes of Maungaturoto. Up this wild and beautiful
gorge runs the public road to the Maungaturoto railway station, some 15
miles west of Waipu. The word Waipu is said to mean murmuring waters, or
the meeting of the waters, and if the old Maoris gave it that name as
characterizing the waters rushing down this stream it is most appropriate.
Strange to say, most of the business places in the township are controlled
by strangers. It boasts of a bank, a post and telegraph-telephone office,
a police station, a garage, a boarding house, otherwise an hotel without a
license, for the people never had any licensed premises within their
bounds, and they are determined to keep such places outside their bounds
as long as possible. The main street, otherwise Culloden Road, runs in a
southerly direction from the church to near the spot which originally was
Norman’s home. At the northern end of this road, and directly opposite the
church, runs Canada Road on through the gorge and ending at the
Maungaturoto railway station. At its southern end branches off Assynt
Road, where still stand the ruins of Norman’s home. Around this area there
extends some 10,000 acres of flat and rich alluvial soil, the product of
the various streams in bygone ages. Here grape vines, orange and lemon
trees, tobacco, and a multitude of other plants grow well in the open.
Here, also, the original settlers who arrived in the "Highland Lass" made
their homes, and here their descendants still remain. They are engaged in
mixed farming, and life seems to run smoothly with them. One of their
principal products is brown top seed, for which they receive from 1s. 6d.
to 2s. per pound for all they can grow.
During the ‘seventies and ‘eighties of last century a
wonderful industry sprang up in gum digging. The country originally was
one dense kauri forest. This tree belongs to the pine family and lives
from 1,000 to 5,000 years. It exudes enormous
quantities of juice or gum, which gradually solidifies, falls to the
ground, and remains there unspoiled for ages. This gum is a valuable
article of commerce, and many of the Waipu people received as much as £100
to £200 per acre for the privilege of digging their land in search of this
gum. These were the gold-digging days of Waipu, and they laid the
foundations of many prosperous farms of to-day. Mr. John R. McKay, of
Assynt Road, has a splendid collection of gum specimens, one of them
weighing about 20 pounds. John lives under the shadow of Mount Pisgah, and
still climbs it to view the Maori Pah and the Sacred Vale of Ares.
THE OLD IDENTITIES.
The ranks of the Nova Scotians are rapidly dwindling,
and now only about a score of them can be found around the township; while
Mr. John R. McKay estimates that about three-score of them still survive
throughout New Zealand. Excepting about half a dozen, all of them were
infants or in the early teens when they left St. Ann’s. Two of them, Mrs.
Flora McLennan and Mr. Alex. Kempt, are almost centenarians. They all
delight in talking of the early days, the building of the ships, the
voyage to Australia and New Zealand, the arrival at Waipu, life in the
tents, the Maoris, and the primitive conditions of their existence. It is
most interesting to listen to their story while recounting the amazing
sights and novel experiences encountered. Mrs. Isobel McKay and Mr. John
M. McKay, better known as "The Chief," were just entering their teens as
they arrived. These two and Mr. Murdoch Fraser, New Plymouth, are the sole
survivors of "The Margaret," while each of them can recount incidents that
occurred from the date of their leaving St. Ann’s even until to-day. All
of these old people are comfortably situated and make light of their early
struggles. Their kindness and hospitality is unbounded, and without their
assistance this story could never have been written. Now they sit and
croon and say with Lady Nairn:
I'm wearin’ awa’, John,
Like snaw-wreaths in thaw, John,
I’m wearin’ awa’ to the land o’ the leal.
There’s nae sorrow there, John,
There’s neither cauld nor care, John,
The day’s aye fair i’ the land o’ the leal.
GAELIC LANGUAGE.
The Gaelic language seems doomed to extinction as a
spoken language throughout the British Empire. No language is a permanent
institution in any country. It must undergo changes to suit the times and
conditions under which we live. How few Saxons can read Chaucer, and
conversely how few Gaels can read the original Gaelic of Ossian! The
Celts, Saxons, Nordics, and Normans have lost themselves in the general
mixture. Change and amalgamation has been the order of time. This is as it
should be in the welding of a nation, so that regrets are vain. Traces of
various languages, manners, and customs can be found in every country. In
the same way certain physical and mental qualities will last indefinitely
no matter how a people may mix. The English language is full of Celtic
words, but owing to changes in spelling and pronunciation it requires a
scholar to elucidate them. Professor Watson, Professor of Celtic Language,
Literature, and History and Antiquities in Edinburgh University, has shown
this very clearly in his book, "The Celtic Place Names of Scotland," and
what applies to Scotland applies with equal force to England and Ireland.
It is impossible for the British people to eliminate from their blood or
traditions or language all traces of their Celtic origin: atavism is a
thing beyond their power of elimination. The old people of Waipu sadly
regret the passing of their language, but they can comfort themselves with
the knowledge that changes are inevitable; while complete destruction of a
people and a language is an almost impossible task.
PROMINENT MEN.
There were several men who played a prominent part in
the lives of these people, and amongst them were the two brothers Captains
Duncan and Murdoch McKenzie, Messrs. John Fraser, John McKay, and John
Munro.
Captain Duncan McKenzie—now better known as the
"Prince," so as to distinguish him from his brother, Captain Murdoch
McKenzie—shortly after his arrival set up as a storekeeper and ship
chandler at Auckland. In this capacity he was most useful to his
compatriots at Waipu, for he it was who acted as agent betwixt them and
the business community of Auckland. When the people had surmounted their
preliminary difficulties, he removed to Mars-den Point, Whangarei Harbour,
and set up there in the same capacity. Seeing the necessity of some safe
means of transit to Auckland, he it was who financed the building of the
cutter "Flora Macdonald." With her he carried on all the trade betwixt the
Waipu people and Auckland. Then, as their numbers increased and trade
improved, he removed to Waipu, and financed the building of the cutters
"Thistle," "Jessie," and "Cambria." When the weather and bar were
suitable, these vessels traded betwixt Waipu and Auckland; and, when
unsuitable, they went on to Marsden Point, where there was safety in all
weathers. This man was of inestimable value to the people. It was his
knowledge of business and seamanship that enabled them to build and sail
the "Margaret." He it was who, by his business acumen, enabled them to
overcome their pioneering difficulties at Waipu. The older people of the
settlement speak of him with the utmost pride and affection. If they were
in need of anything and had no money, they simply went to the "Prince" who
supplied all their wants without bond of any kind. His home at Auckland,
Marsden Point, and Waipu was famed for its hospitality. Indeed, it served
the purpose of a free boarding-house for all travellers. His wife, who was
a native of Ross-shire, went out with Norman in the "
Frances Ann,’ and the people describe her as an ideal hostess. She
survived her husband for several years, and died at Whangarei in her
ninety-fifth year.
Captain Murdoch McKenzie, better known as the
"Captain," began trading between Auckland, Australia, and the South Sea
Islands. He continued at this work for several years, while his family
lived at Waipu. On his home visits he brought many South Sea Island curios
to his friends at Waipu. These things were objects of great interest, and
they are still treasured by their descendants. On retiring from the sea he
took up his abode at Waipu, and his home was the centre of interest to all
people who loved to hear of tales of travel and foreign lands and peoples.
These two men were born navigators, and their sons
followed in their footsteps. It is said that during the ‘seventies and
‘eighties of last century no less than ten Captain McKenzies, all related
to each other, sailed their ships into Auckland. The sea was in their
blood; and it was said of them, give them a log and they would rig and
sail it when other men were helpless. Their craft in seamanship was
extraordinary, while their skill in overcoming difficulties was simply
marvellous.
Messrs. John Fraser and John McKay were skilled
tradesmen and bushmen. They were practically the builders of the
"Margaret," and came to New Zealand to spy out the land. They were men of
iron will, indomitable courage, and boundless perseverance. No
difficulties could damp them. Give them a knife or hatchet, a string and a
pannikin or billy (small pale or bucket) and they would go anywhere and
live anywhere. These were the men who, innured to danger, knew no fear,
and could live in the forest or on the coast where other men starved. They
were typical pioneers, who could snatch success out of any circumstances.
Mr. John Munro was the diplomatist of the party. He had
some training in diplomacy whilst a member of the Nova Scotian
Legislature. This experience served him well at Capetown and at Auckland.
It was a shrewd move on his part to call upon Governor Grey at Capetown
and get the government to put its terms of land settlement upon paper. It
was still shrewder in him to exhibit this paper to Governor Gore-Brown and
Superintendent Williamson on his arrival at Auckland and ask for better
terms or the alternative that his party would return to Capetown. He
evidently understood how to work the political lever, and he used it with
much success. Of course the land was valueless without settlers, but it is
clear he stole a march upon less astute settlers. He eventually became a
New Zealand politician, and was a member of New Zealand Parliament for
several years.
Thus amongst these men we find intrepid seamen,
iron-willed pioneers, and diplomatists of no mean order. With men of this
type pioneering becomes play, while difficulties vanish as if by magic.
EDUCATION.
In the early days of the settlement education went no
further than the simple rules, as the children, where possible, were
required to attend to domestic and farm duties. As a consequence, the
first generation of young New Zealanders was unable to distinguish itself
in the various fields of learning. The Province of Otago, which was
established by Scotsmen in 1848, made provision for schools, church, and
university from the very start of the settlement. The people set apart
large areas of land as endowments for each of the above purposes, and this
gave an impetus to educa— tion in Otago that was denied to the other
provinces. As population increased, a high school was established; and in
1869 they established the Otago University at Dunedin.
In 1877 the New Zealand Government passed an Education
Act which made the common school education free, secular, and compulsory.
Hence every child in New Zealand was favoured with a good common school
education. Shortly afterwards the Government established high schools, and
at the same time instituted a large number of competitive scholarships
whereby poor, but clever children, could receive a high school education,
and thence pass on to the University. As a consequence, any child of good
capacity can to-day obtain the highest education the country provides at
practically no cost to its parents. The money spent by the Government last
year amounted to the large sum of £3,247,130, or about £3 per head of the
population; and the people look upon this large expenditure as money well
spent.
Waipu has taken advantage of this liberal educational
system of the country, and now it sends out a large body of well-equipped
men and women into the world of affairs. As illustrating this, one of
their number compiled the following table of men and women occupying
useful positions in life:—
Sea Captains, 20
Doctors, 3
Dentists, 2
Engineers, 5
Inspectors (School), 2
Lawyers, 5
Ministers (Presbyterians), 3
Missionaries (Presbyterian), 3
Merchants, 15
Trained Nurses, 19
Public Men, 12
Parliament, 2
School Teachers, 95
Civil Service, 55
WAR.
When the call for men came in 1914 the Waipu boys were
amongst the first to offer their services. This was characteristic of the
race, for whenever danger threatens they are ever ready for the fray. What
splendid war material the Motherland lost when she cast out the ancestors
of these brave warriors. They know her only by tradition, but the latent
fighting spirit of the Celt was aroused. They, in effect, said the Old
Mother did not treat our people too well, but all the same we won’t see
her let down, for blood is thicker than water. Then the fiery cross was
lit on every hilltop, the warpipe sounded "gather, gather, gather," while
the clansmen of Waipu buckled on their swords and marched into camp. Three
hundred and twenty men and three trained nurses heard the call, and
marched shoulder to shoulder to meet the enemy. They played a very gallant
part in the various fields of battle. Some thirty of them paid the last
penalty, while a number were maimed and rendered unfit for further
service. To the fallen the people of Waipu have erected a splendid
memorial in Church Square, adjacent to that of the old settlers. These two
pillars, standing side by side, form an imperishable story of the bravery,
resource, and boundless patriotism of the people of Waipu. They proclaim
to the ages the words of the poet when he says
By that dread name we wave the sword on high,
And swear for her to live, with her to die.
PROBABLE END OF SETTLEMENT.
The probable end of Waipu as a Highland settlement is
gradual extinction. Highland names will last there indefinitely, but the
native tongue and certain racial characteristics are doomed to disappear.
New Zealand is a young and small country with an ever-moving and
increasing population. This means the introduction of new blood and the
blending of all its people. The Waipuans have multiplied rapidly, but
their sons and daughters are scattered over the whole of New Zealand, and
even into foreign lands. Trade, education, ambition, and the matrimonial
market are compelling circumstances. If they attempted to live within
themselves and become a peculiar people, old Mother Nature would soon
extinguish them, for constant interbreeding means gradual degeneration and
final extinction. They owe their present sound mental and physical
qualities to the blend of which they are composed. The richer classes and
the intellectual classes in all countries gradually tend towards
degeneration or become sterile. To counteract this, they procure mates
from amongst the humbler toilers as fertility and physical fitness seems
to shun the haunts of wealth and great mental activity. Poverty, or
comparative poverty, has its advantages as well as the limelights of
wealth, honours, and intellectualism. There always have been rich men,
intellectual men, and great men in the world; but they as a class or as a
nation have lacked permanence. The older people regret the changes which
they see around them, but they are inevitable. Their love of Caledonia is
great, and they love the words of the poet who says
Ged tha mise air a Ghalldachd,
Tha mo chridhe’s an Taobh-tuath,
Tir mo bhreath is m arach,
Tir mo chairdean’s mo sluagh,
Tir nan beanntajchean carrach,
Tir nan lochan ‘s nan bruach,
Tir nan cailleagan boidheach,
Tir nan oigrann suaire.
Literal Translation.
Though I’m in the Lowlands,
My heart’s in the North-
Land of my birth and my rearing,
Land of friends and my people,
Land of bold craggy mountains,
Land of lakelets and braes,
Land of lovely young maidens,
Land of gallant young men.
The following is a list of migrants prepared by Mr.
John Munro, of Marsden, Point, Whangarei Bay. It appeared in the "Northern
Advocate" of February 6, 1903. Some of the survivors state that it is not
absolutely correct, but that it is the only record of its kind in
existence, and hence we give it as the best evidence procurable. Mr. Munro
died several years ago, and so far as is known left no record of the
migration. His photograph faces page 17.
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