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The Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal
Notes and Queries


IN the report of the Annual Meeting, in the January number, mention was made of a number of hotel proprietors, who had been approached with the object of securing a special Tariff for Members of the Club. Terms have been arranged with the following:

Arrochar Temperance Hotel, about 8s. per day.
Bridge of Lochay Hotel, Kuhn, 11s.
Dreadnought Hotel, Callander, 11s.

1s. more per day, during the Tourist Season.

(As the Gairloch Hotel, Ross-shire, the Caledonian in Oban, and the Royal in Portree all belong to the Dreadnought Company, the presumption is that the charges there will be similar.)

Lochearnhead Hotel. Till July, 3 guineas a week or 10s. a day. After July, about 22s. a day.

Luib Hotel, Glen Dochart, 10s. a day.

Kinlochewe Hotel, Loch Maree, 7s. a day from October to 31st May; 9s. a day from June to October.

Sligachan Hotel, Skye, 10s. per day.

Mr Munro states that rough, but clean accommodation for three people can be had at Macmillan's, at Skiary, on the south side of upper Loch Hourn, about a mile from the end of the carriage road from Invergarry. There is much wild and magnificent scenery in the neighbourhood. Macmillan has a license.
The above charges very fairly represent what is asked in most of the Highland inns and hotels. The Honorary Secretary would be glad if Members who visit hotels conveniently situated in hill districts would endeavour to obtain a special Club tariff, and to place the hotel-keeper in communication with him.

There is little to report in the matter of special facilities, further than that a number of proprietors and tenants of sporting ground have intimated, that during the winter and spring months, no obstacles will be put in the way of Members roaming over their hills. In the case of ground that is under sheep—provided the traveller does not take a dog with him—little or no harm can be done at any time.

Mr Hargreave Brown very generously granted the use of his commodious bothy at Loch Eunach to Members. It is at the foot of Braeriach, and is excellently situated for exploration of the Cairngorms. Permission extends to the 1st of May; and efforts will be made to have it renewed next winter.

Mr Orr, of Ledviegreen, Strathblane, has kindly given permission to Members to pass through his private grounds in their approach to the Campsie Fells.

Maclean, the keeper on Loch Morlich, at the foot of Cairngorm, is willing to put up two Members, provided due notice is given.

In common doubtless with many others, the writer has frequently enjoyed the hospitality of foresters, farmers, shepherds, and others in out-of-the-way places. Rarely, indeed; is food or accommodation refused by these kindly people, while the remuneration—that is rarely expected -has often to be forced on the children to secure its acceptance.

If Members are at any time in the position of being able to get special privileges granted to the Club, or to secure quarters in spots far from hotels, the Honorary Secretary will be glad to hear of the same.


THE Club has now acquired, as arranged at the annual meeting, a complete set of the Ordnance Survey Maps of Scotland, on the scale of one inch to the mile. These may be consulted at the Club-Room by any of the Members. The Alpine Club has kindly agreed to send to our Club a copy of the Alpine Journal as issued ; and in response to the suggestion in the first number of this Journal several marked maps have already been sent in, as well as several other books presented by Members. The Librarian will be glad to take charge of any other maps, &c., that may be sent.


WITH a view to supplement Mr Munro's suggestion, in the first number, as to marked maps, the Editor would he glad to receive very brief notices of any expeditions that may be undertaken by Members. It is not at all intended that these should supersede the more detailed accounts furnished for the Jourmil, the intention rather being to keep a record of what is being done by Members, and to put any one who is in want of special information as to certain districts in communication with those vho are able to give it. The following notes will give an idea of what is wanted :-

SEVERAL Members of the Club found their way to Dalmally for the Easter holidays, and the magnificent weather there prevailing was very suitable for climbing. On 5th April Messrs Lester, T. F. S. Campbell, and Stott, from Crianlarich, climbed Cruach Ardran (3,300 feet ?), and Stob Garbh (3,148 feet). Messrs Lester and Campbell reached the top by way of the rocky north face, cutting steps for a good distance up frozen snow, whose angle was little if at all short of The ascent of Corrie Ardran took nearly two hours from Crianlarich, the actual hill about three-quarters of an hour. A very steep descent—rocks and snow—was made to the col, whence Stob Garbh was climbed from the south. On the same day Mr M'Intosh climbed Ben Cruachan. On the 6th April Messrs Lester and Campbell attempted the "Black Shoot," a narrow chimney 300 or 400 feet high in the cliffs of the great corrie of Ben Anea (3,242 feet) in Glen Strae. It had previously been attempted by Messrs Lester and R. A. Robertson in December. On the present occasion the climbers got about half way up it, and are very-doubtful if it is possible to ascend higher. Mr Stott, in two hours from Bridge of Strae, ascended Ben a Chochuill (3,215 feet), and returned over the top of Ben Anea. On none of these hills was there as much snow as might have been expected at this time of year. A week of hot sun had made it for the most part very soft; but on the northern faces there were, as a rule, fine cornices, and both ground and snow were frozen hard. Both Ben Cruachan and Cruach Ardran afforded some glissading.—J. G. S.

ON Friday, 4th April, W. W. Naismith and Gilbert Thomson left Glasgow, reaching Ballachulish ziid Oban at 3.15 P.M. Walked up to Clachaig, visiting Pass of Glencoe (about 2 hours from Bridge of Coe and back), and other places of interest. Clachaig Inn reached about nine.

Starting next morning at 7.40, the slope directly behind the inn was climbed to gain the N.W. ridge of Bidean nain Bian, which was then followed to the summit, 3,756 feet (10.20). Climbing mostly over screes and snow. Steps cut here and there, but might have been avoided by slight detours, except in one or two places. Continued along ridge, dodging to north of next peak (Ben Fhada), till point was reached facing Stob Dhu (the top of Buchaille Etive Bheag), and about 2,400 feet up. From this there was a long glissade down a soft snow slope to the pass of the Lairig Eilde. Crossing the valley at the highest point, Stob Dhu (3,129 feet) was attacked at once. Considerable rock climbing near top, reached at 1.5o. Descending towards the highest point of the Lairig Gartain pass, with one or two short glissades, the course was laid for the foot of the precipices of southmost peak of Buchaille Etive Mor, with the intention of avoiding it and reaching the col. A long slope of frozen snow blocked the way, and rather than cut steps across it (200 or 300 yards), the top of the peak was climbed by cutting steps up a gully filled with hard snow for a length of something over xoo feet, the rope being used. This peak and centre one covered with snow. Followed ridge to Stob Dearg, 3,345 feet (6.40), descended by steep shoulder to Glen Etive road (reached about three miles from Kingshouse), and arrived at Kings- house at 8.50.

Dr Coats, walking from Tyndrum, also reached Kingshouse on Saturday night, and accompanied the others on Monday. Rain fell from Sunday afternoon till an hour after starting on Monday morning, but then cleared. High wind continued. Left Kingshouse at 6.45, followed Tyndrum road till after passing first house, then turned up eastmost spur of Clachlet. Fresh snow became continuous at about 1,800 feet on all the flatter parts, and was drifting freely from the ridges. Crossed deep depression (about 500 feet) to main ridge, turned sharp south, and reached top, 3,602 feet, at 10.15. Descended steep rough face towards Stob Ghabhar, 3,565 feet, top of which was reached at 12.35, and Inveroran at 2.30. Drove to Tyndrum, and got 5.40 train to Glasgow. From every peak the views were magnificent. - G. T.

[On comparing notes with Mr Thomson, I find I have fallen into error in my paper on Buchaille Etive, in the January number, where I speak of Stob Dhu as one of the twin peaks. The peak I mean is Mr Thomson's "centre one covered with snow." It is called, I believe, Stob na L)oirc, and is not much short of its neighbour Stob Dearg in height. The Buchaille Mor has really three peaks.—J. G. S.]

IN accordance with the desire expressed in the Rules of the Club, I have to record briefly the details of three days' climbing in the beginning of April, premising (i) that on the whole the weather was remarkably line, abnormally so for the season; (2) that the ascents were unattended with any great difficulty; and that the "times" are not intended to represent "record" ones, as the pace though steady was moderate, especially when toiling up the equivalent to what are known in Swiss climbing as "those awful Alps."

Firs! Day.—Starting from the Dalmally Hotel at nine A.M., Messrs Rolland, M'Candlish, and Stott, we followed the Oban road for about two and a half miles, ascended by the north-east ridge of the range forming an amphitheatre on the east of Cruachan, and gained the east- most peak marked 3,272 feet on the Ordnance Survey map, at 11.15. Keeping near the top of the ridge we gained the centre peak, 3,312 feet, and thence walked almost due west along the ridge to the foot of the final rocky arete of the Ben. Keeping rather below the crest in order to turn a rocky point presenting a precipitous side of about forty feet, and clambering up the rocky boulders, we reached the summit, 3,680 feet, at two o'clock. Patches of snow lay near the top, but these could nearly always be avoided. The descent was made straight down to the Cruachan burn, taking advantage of snow in the gullies for short glissades; and crossing over the shoulder of the hill before reaching the falls, we arrived at Loch Awe at five o'clock.

Second Day.—Leaving Dalmally by train at 7.20, we arrived at Crianlarich at eight A.M. Mr Stott left us to ascend Cruach Ardran with another party, while we walked along the road as far as the Ben More farm, and commenced the ascent of that mountain at nine. Mounting steadily up the steep north slope we gained the summit, 3,843 feet, at 11.15, having been obliged to leave the rocks before reaching the top on account of the ice thereon and to cut steps up a small couloir. We had also to bring the axe into requisition on the final slope. The glory of the view surpasses description, but I may mention the magnificent appearance of Ben Lui (or Laoigh) close to us with the sun shining on the immense mass of snow; Ben Nevis proudly raised his snowy head, and the Cairngorms in the north-east seemed quite near. In the south-east Dumyat was very distinctly seen, as well as Stirling Castle and the windings of the Forth. Leaving the summit at 11.45 we descended to the saddle between Ben More and Stob Binnein, and gained the top of the latter mountain, 3,827 feet, at 12.45. The view was to a great extent a repetition of the one from Ben More, so without much delay we commenced the descent. There was a good deal of snow on the slopes but too soft for glissading. It was hard enough to allow us to take long running steps, and we were able by quick walking to reach Crianlarich at 2.25.

Third Day.—During the night there had been a fresh fall of snow, and the clouds.were hanging low. On the chance of an improvement in weather we drove to Ben Lawers Inn (quite unnecessary, but we took advantage of a carriage placed at our disposal) and commenced the ascent of Ben Lawers at 8.50 A.M. Keeping a course N.W. by N. we gained the wood and there found ourselves in thick mist, but continuing our route we emerged from the mist, and presently had a clear view of the top, for which we steered a direct course. The wind was now blowing strong from the N.W., and compelled us to keep on the lee side of the first ridge to avoid the whirlwind of icy particles. Proceeding along the final arÍte to the summit, 3,984 feet, the cold was intense, and we gratefully accepted the shelter afforded by the cairn, which we reached at 10.35. The higher hills were shrouded in mist, but the lower ones stretching from the N.E. to the S.E. were very beautiful, and the immense snow couloirs all around were most impressive.

An apology is perhaps necessary for giving an account of what are probably regarded as commonplace expeditions: if so, I do apologise, but I am anxious to emphasise the fact, that great pleasure may be derived, and beneficial physical effects may result, from such expeditions; especially when undertaken in fine weather after a winter's sedentary work; and I conclude by recommending every climber at that season of the year to carry an alpenstock or an ice-axe,—the latter may prove serviceable and even necessary, and either will be most useful and increase his comfort and enjoyment.—J. H. W. R.

The following lines were sent to the President in reply to a copy of the first number of the Journal, along with the Master of Trinity's translation into Latin elegiacs of Tennyson's "Crossing the Bar ":-

WINCHESTER, 26th March 1890.


'To-morrow and to-morrow'

(I've constantly remarked of late, with Shakespeare), I must borrow
Some leisure to reply to you, and thank you well and truthful
Ly for the Cambridge verses: how learned and how youthful
Is that chief Butler eloquent! I really think he's younger
Than when in Harrow class-rooms he fed the mental hunger!
And more—a magazine that tells what life beyond the Forth is,
Has come to show the sleepy South how wide-awake the North is
A President, and colleagues stout, describe in accents cheering
The ecstasy and high delights of winter mountaineering!
Methinks I see their stalwart forms, enwrapt in blankets dewy,
A-camping, some December night, on side of Ben Macdhui!
A shape—perhaps the President's—appears to rule the storm,
Enthroned, like cloud-compelling Zeus, upon thy peak,
Cairngorm! There's snow and sleet, there's rain and mist, and driving hail—no matter,

With you, Professors quite expect a lusty douche of water!
And when, thro' boots and down the back, the snow and rain come soaking,
They only grin, and say, 'How cool is Home Rule students' joking!
No petty Home Rule heats! with height and cold is our communion!
We view from lofty pinnacles the area of the Union!'

Now, luck attend your climbing club—the footstep sure and steady!
Soft sleep upon Schiehallion's top, snug supper on Ben Ledi
A pillar on Ben Nevis raise, a landmark high and clear—
Inscribe it thus, 'On New Year's night, the President slept here!'
Here, in the soporific South, upon the downs we toddle,
And if it rains, or snows, or blows, we play the molly-coddle!
If wise men once, as we are told, came from the Eastern hot land,
I think they then turned to the right and domiciled in Scotland!"


The Hon. Secretary desires to give notice to any Members who may not have paid their Annual Subscriptions that their names will be posted in the Club Room forthwith,

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