Low Fenwick--Old John Kirkland--"The
Kirk-town"--The erection of the Parish and origin of the name--The Parish
Church and Burying-Ground--The Rev. William Guthrie--The Burial Place of
the Howies--Captain Paton.
Arriving at a bridge
spanning the Fenwick water I crossed over, passed up the "waterslap," and
entered the highway between Kilmarnock and Glasgow. On each side of it,
forming a kind of street, stands Low Fenwick, which for the most part
consists of a few primitive-like one-storeyed houses. Besides these there
are a few modern erections of the plainest architecture, the most
noteworthy of which is the mansion of Mr. John Graham, a gentleman
connected with a banking firm in Glasgow. The place being isolated and
possessed of neither "kirk nor market, mill or smithy," it is entirely
unprogressive. The inhabitants are mostly engaged in weaving and
agricultural pursuits; work at the former is very difficult to obtain, and
wretchedly remunerated when it is procured.
Mr. John Kirkland, a minor
poet, is a native and a resident of Low Fenwick. This venerable bard has
wooed the muse for well nigh half a century, and, like some of Scotland’s
great song writers, though bred to the loom, poesy has been to him an
oasis from which he has drawn pleasure and solace in many a lone hour. He
was a contributor to The Ayrshire
Inspirer and other publications,
but since age and its attendant infirmities have began to tell on him his
harp has been somewhat neglected. Perhaps it may not be out of place to
append a few verses from his pen, therefore I make the following brief
extract from a long poem entitled
AN OLD MAN’S ADDRESS TO THE MOON
"Hail, lovely orb of tranquil
light,
Whose soften’d radiance makes the night
Seem fairer than the day;
Before thy presence in the sky
The stars and planets fade and die,
Their gory melts away.
Vain of thy charms the sky we
view--
Unfolds her ample field of blue
Thy beauty to display;
With youth immortal on thy brow,
And queenly mien and grandeur thou
Rejoicest on thy way.
No frailty with increasing years,
But fresh and vigorous thou appears,
As when the Almighty’s finger
First touch’d thee into being bright,
And filled thy lamp with quenchless light--
Nor dost thou pause or linger."
Passing through Low
Fenwick, a walk of half-a-mile brought me to High Fenwick, or as it is
more commonly called "the Kirk-town." It is situated on the Glasgow road,
four miles north-east of Kilmarnock, and consists of a respectable street
and a number of lowly cottages that cluster round its quaint but highly
interesting parish church, which stands in a hollow a short distance from
the highway. It has a population of 469. Its trade is very meager, and
consists of handloom weaving and such crafts as are incidental to all
rural villages where the scream of the locomotive whistle is unheard, and
where the inhabitants retain much of the rustic artlessness of their
forefathers. Besides an inn and several public-houses, the place though
small contains no less than three churches. The first--a large building
belonging to the U.P. body, and erected in 1830--I passed on my right as I
entered the village, and the second--a small structure erected in 1844,
and inscribed "The Guthrie Church"--I found situated next to the inn and
nearly opposite a land leading down to the real Guthrie Church, for
evidently the title conferred by the Free Church body upon their little
tabernacle is a misnomer, the parish church being the Guthrie Church
proper, the eminent diving of that name having laboured in it for twenty
years.
Previous to 1642 the parish
of Fenwick was included in that of Kilmarnock. Upon the disjunction it was
termed New Kilmarnock,
but Fenwick--which according to Chalmers is a
word of Anglo-Saxon origin and signifies the village of the fen or
marsh--being the name of the first-mentioned hamlet, the inhabitants
persisted in calling the parish by the same cognomen, and in course of
time the appellation, which is appropriately descriptive of the boggy
nature of the greater portion of its soil, came to be universally
recognized.
The year after the erection
of the parish of Fenwick its celebrated church was built. Houses gradually
sprang up around it, and the Kirk-town, although comparatively modern, has
become the parochial centre of commerce and divinity, but there is nothing
of interest connected with its history beyond what is purely
ecclesiastical.
After straying through the
quiet village I turned down a land and soon arrived at the gate of the
little burying-ground that surrounds the parish church. Finding it
unfastened, I opened a rusty leaf and entered, and as it closed with a
clank behind me I felt as if the world was shut out, and I,
"Far from the madding
crowd’s ignoble strife,"
left in solitude to muse
upon the sons of the Covenant--the bold, undisciplined peasantry who
buckled on the sword for conscience sake and battled to the death against
tyrannical diction.
The church is a low-roofed,
old-fashioned-like building, with a small steeple or belfry. By its side
the juggs still dangle at the end of a iron chain. They consist of
a hinged circular iron collar about six inches in diameter, and were used
in the olden times to punish individuals guilty of petty offences. The
collar was padlocked around the neck of the culprit, and he or she was
left to be stared and jeered at by every passer by for a given number of
hours. The punishment was much dreaded. The interior of the church--into
which I had the good fortune to obtain admittance--is neat and comfortably
seated, and contains three small galleries, and fronts of which are carved
oak. The pulpit, which is also of oak, is the same in which the eminent
William Guthrie, first minister of the parish, preached, and on this
account is greatly prized. By its side, on an iron stand, there is a
half-hour sand glass. Preaching by the sand glass is a very ancient
custom, and one that is still observed in this little church. When the
minister begins his discourse the beadle turns it, and a glass to a glass
and a half is considered to be sufficient for a sermon. The second turning
gives the speaker a hint to draw his remarks to a close. The church was
erected in 1643. Its site is said to have been chosen by the Rev. William
Guthrie and a number of the parishioners, and it is recorded that he
preached in it before it was finished, so anxious was he to begin his
labours. Near to the church and opposite the gate there is a handsome
tombstone to the memory of this distinguished divine. It bears the
following inscription:--"In memory of the Rev. William Guthrie, first
minister of this parish, and author of The Christian’s Great Interest.
Born 1620; ordained, 1644. Ejected by prelatic persecution, 1664; worn
out by labours and sufferings, he died, 1665, and was interred in the
church of Brechin. His active and self-denying ministry, through the
Divine blessing, produced a deep and lasting impression. This stone is
erected, 1854, as a token of gratitude by the Christian public.
‘With heavenly weapons I have
fought
The battles of the Lord;
Finish’d my course, and kept the faith,
Depending on His word.’"
The Rev. William Guthrie
was a native of Angus, and the eldest son of the laird of Pitforthy. He
studied philosophy at St. Andrews University, and took the degree of
Master of Arts. After this he studied divinity under the famous Samuel
Rutherford, and was licensed to preach. In order that worldly cares would
not interfere with the ministry to which he had dedicated himself, he
handed over his right of succession to the family estate to a younger
brother, and energetically applied himself to his profession. He was for
some time tutor to Lord Mauchline, eldest son of the Earl of Loudoun, and
while in that position he preached on a preparation day in Galston.
Several people from Fenwick being present, they were so taken with his
forcible style that they resolved to induce him to become their minister.
He accepted the call, but the difficulties he had to contend with in the
new parish at first was most disheartening. Many of the parishioners had
accustomed themselves to loiter about the fields, or pass the Sabbath
shooting, fishing, or playing at games. Some would not be spoken to, and
others refused him admittance into their houses, but being a man of
tact he tried stratagem, and was ultimately successful in gaining their
confidence and making a change in their morals. He very often disguised
himself as a traveller, and called at the houses of the most profane and
careless in the dusk of evening, and begged a night’s lodging. If admitted
he tried to make himself agreeable by telling racy stories and engaging in
general amusing conversation, and gradually introduced subjects of a more
weighty nature. By this means he procured the attendance of the most
obstinate, and endeared himself to the people of the parish. As time went
on, Mr. Guthrie’s fame spread, and he came to be a most popular and
successful preacher. People came from Glasgow, Paisley, Hamilton, Lanark,
Kilbride, Glassford, Strathaven, Newmilns, and many other places to hear
his eloquence. It was the practice for such to come on Sunday and spend
the greater part of the night in prayer and conversation, attend public
worship on the Sabbath, dedicate the whole day to religious exercises, and
go home on Monday-- "traveling" says his biographer, "ten, twelve, or
twenty miles, without grudging in the least the long way, or the want of
sleep and other refreshments. Neither did they find themselves the less
prepared for any other business through the week." Such popularity did not
go unnoticed, and although by the influence of Chancellor Glencairn and
the Earl of Eglinton he had been allowed to occupy the church for four
years after the restoration, the Archbishop of Glasgow determined to
suspend him. The curate of Calder was nominated to serve the notice. He
arrived in Fenwick with a dozen soldiers, and having delivered a short
address and declared the church vacant, started on his homeward journey.
Woodrow says:--"I am well assured he never preached any more after he left
Fenwick; he reached Glasgow, but it is not certain if he reached Calder,
though but four miles from Glasgow. However, in a few days he died in
great torment of an iliac passion, and his wife and children died all in a
year or thereby, and none belonging to him were left." Mr. Guthrie
continued in Fenwick for a year after his suspension, but he never
preached more. The death of a brother called him to Angus to look after
the paternal estate that had again devolved upon him, but when there, he
was seized with a violent disease, and after lingering a short time died
in the 45th year of his age.
There is not another
graveyard in Ayrshire that contains so many mementoes of the persecution
as that of Fenwick. Several who "wandered in deserts, and hid in
mountains, and in dens and caves of the earth," have found a balm for
their sorrow and suffering in the Lethe of death, and slumber forgetful of
their wrongs in this little golgotha. To the north of the church is the
burial place of the Howies of Lochgoin. There, ‘neath a flat stone, lie
the remains of James Howie, who suffered much during the persecution. The
rhythmical inscription the stone bore was obliterated some years ago, and
a prosaic one substituted. Though lengthy it is far inferior in my opinion
to the former one. In these matters, being somewhat of a Conservative, I
beg to present the reader with an old epitaph. It is preserved in the
appendix to the "Life of John Howie," and is somewhat of a curiosity.
"The dust here lies under this
stone
Of James Howie, and his son John
These two both lived in Lochgoin
And by Death’s power were called to join
This place. The first, November twenty-one,
Years sixteen hundred ninety one
The second, aged ninety year
The first of July was brought here
Years seventeen hundred and fifty-five,
For owning truth made fugitive
Their house twelve times, and cattle all
Was robb’d, and family brought to thrall
All these, before the Revolution
Outlived Zion’s friends ‘gainst opposition."
"And he said unto me, these
are they which came out of great tribulation."--Rev. vii., 14.
"The voice said cry, What shall I
cry?
All flesh is grass, and so must ly
As flow’er in field, with’reth away
So the gooliness of man decay."
Along this stone there is
another with a list of names and dates which covers the remains of other
members of the Howie family. Amongst these moulder all that is mortal of
the gifted author of "The Scots Worthies." The inscription briefly refers
to him as follows:--"Also of his son John, who lived in Lougoin, author of
the ‘Scots Worthies,’ and other publications, who died Jan. 5, A. D.,
1793, aged 57 years."
To the east of the church,
and close to the side walk, there is a handsome monumental tombstone. It
bears the device of a drum and flag, cross swords, etc., and also the
following inscription:--"Sacred to the memory of Captain John Paton, late
of Meadowhead, of this parish, who suffered martyrdom in the Grassmarket,
Edinburgh, May 9th, 1684. He was an honour to his country; on
the Continent, at Pentland, Drumclog, and Bothwell, his heroic conduct
truly evinced the gallant officer, brave soldier, and true patriot. In
social and domestic life he was an ornament; a pious Christian, and a
faithful witness for truth in opposition to the encroachments of
tyrannical and despotic power in Church and State. The mortal remains of
Captain Paton sleep amid the dust of kindred martyrs, in the Greyfriars
Churchyard, Edinburgh. Near this is the burying-place of his family and
descendants.
"Who Antichrist do thus oppose,
And for truth’s cause their lives lay down,
Will get the vict’ry o’er their foes,
And gain life’s everlasting crown."
Captain Paton was one of
the most heroic of the worthies who suffered during the persecution. His
life was an eventful one, and the closing scene tragic. In early manhood
he exchanged the sickle for the sword, went abroad and joined the army of
Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, and was for some valiant deed advanced
to the post of Captain. His stay abroad is supposed to have been brief,
for in 1645 he was called out to assist in opposing Montrose’s
insurrection. He was present at the battle of Kilsyth, and behaved with
great bravery, as did all the Convenanting leaders; but nevertheless
Montrose’s daring purpose and superior general ship carried the day, and
the little army was driven into a bog. Howie--from whom I
condense--relates the following extraordinary achievement: --"In this
extremity, the Captain, as soon as he got free of the bog, with sword in
hand made the best of his way through the enemy, till he had got safe to
the two Colonels Hacket and Strachan, who all three rode off together; but
they had not gone far till they were encountered by about fifteen of the
enemy, all of whom they killed except two who escaped. When they had gone
a little farther, they were again attacked by about thirteen more, and of
these they killed ten, so that only three of them could make their escape.
But, upon the approach of about eleven more, one of the Colonels said, in
a familiar dialect, ‘Johnny, if thou dost not somewhat now, we are all
dead men.’ To whom the Captain answered, ‘Fear not’ for we will do what we
can before we either yield or flee before them." Making good their
retreat, the three friends separated, and the Captain returned to Fenwick.
The year following this
event the Rev. William Guthrie, accompanied by Captain Paton and a number
of friends from Fenwick, went to Mauchline to meet with a party of
Covenanters who had agreed to celebrate the Lord’s Supper. When engaged in
their devotions, General Middleton and a company of soldiers surprised
them. Middleton ordered his men to fire into the worshippers, but the Earl
of Loudoun, who was one of the party, begged of him to allow the people to
depart in peace. This he did, but coming upon them the next day he
commenced hostilities, and a skirmish ensued. In it the Captain is said to
have killed eighteen of the enemy.
After joining the
expedition to oppose Cromwell’s entry into Scotland, he returned home,
settled at Meadowhead, and married. His life was now peaceful. He sat
under the ministry of the Rev. William Guthrie, and became a member of his
session, but in November, 1666, being invited to join the Covenanters of
Galloway, who had taken up arms against Sir James Turner, "he behoved to
take the field again, and commanded a party of horse from Loudoun,
Fenwick, and other places." Having joined others who had collected forces,
they marched to Lanark, renewed the Covenant, and from thence to Rullion,
a place near the Pentland hills. The little army, numbering some 900, was
attacked at this spot by General Dalziel, who commanded 8000 men. The
position the Covenanters occupied was favourable, and they kept their
assailants successfully at bay for some time, but ultimately overwhelming
numbers forced them to retreat. During the engagement Captain Paton
behaved with great bravery, and fought hand to hand with Dalziel, who
knowing him tried to take him prisoner. Each fired a pistol at each other.
The Captain observing his ball to "hoop down," supposed the General to
proof against lead, and with the intention of breaking the spell slipped a
piece of silver in his remaining pistol. The General observing the
movement retreated behind an attendant to avoid the shot. In this he was
successful, for when the Captain fired the man fell dead. Paton was
amongst the last to leave the field. Finding himself and two horsemen from
Fenwick surrounded by the foe, be cut a way out, and long with them
escaped. Dalziel being still intent upon his capture sent two troopers
after him. As they neared his companions cried, "What will we do
now?"--"What is the fray?" cried the Captain; "there are but two of them."
Wheeling about he met the foremost rider, and with a stroke of his sword
clave his head, then cried to the other to take his compliments to his
master, for he would not be with him to-night. He afterwards returned to
Meadowhead, but was now a marked man. Hunted from place to place, and
compelled to lurk about the moors, he had often to make the cold heath his
bed. Yet in all his wandering and hairbreadth escapes he drew consolation
from his Bible, and from the thought that he would receive an imperishable
reward for his suffering in a life beyond the grave. After the battles of
Drunclog and Bothwell Bridge, in which he acted a gallant part, his
position, if possible, became worse, and he turned weary of life and
unresistingly allowed himself to be taken prisoner by five soldiers who
visited the house of Robert Howie in Floack, in the parish of Mearns. His
captors did now know him, and supposing him to be some old minister, they
conveyed him towards Kilmarnock. At Muir Yett, a farm-steading on the
Glasgow road, a farmer standing at his door gave vent to his astonishment
at seeing the Captain in custody by exclaiming, "Alas! Captain Paton, are
you there?" The soldiers thus learning his identity well knew the value of
their prize. On being conveyed to Edinburgh he was met by Dalziel, who
remarked that he was both glad and sorry to see him. "John," said he, "if
I had met you on the way before you came hither I should have set you at
liberty, but now it is too late. But be not afraid, I will write to his
Majesty for your life."-- "You will not be heard," replied the
Captain.--"Will I not?" and Dalziel vehemently. "If he does not grant me
the life of one man I shall never draw sword for him again." Dalziel kept
his word, petitioned the King, and obtained a reprieve; but the document
having to pass through the hands of Paterson, Bishop of Edinburgh, it was
designedly delayed until the sentence passed on the Captain had been put
into execution. |