Why is the mountaineer so attached to his Highland
home? We do not say that the home-sickness, or mal du pays, is
peculiar to the mountaineer, but only that in him it is peculiarly
intense and passionate. This cannot always be accounted for by the
grandeur of the scenery among which he lives. The inhabitants of most
parts of Switzerland, for example, are notoriously obtuse to the beauty
and magnificence which constantly surround them. From our own
observation, we agree with Mr Buskin in what he says regarding the poor
peasants of that glorious land :—" They do not understand so much as the
name of beauty or of knowledge. They understand dimly that of virtue,
love, patience, hospitality, truth. These things they know. . . . For
the inhabitant of these regions the world is vapour and vanity. For him
neither flowers bloom, nor birds sing, nor fountains glisten ; and his
soul hardly differs from the gray cloud that lives and dies upon his
hills, except in having no fold of it touched by the sunbeams." Yet
these men cling with enthusiastic fondness to their mountain-home.
It is true, that the Scottish Highlander possesses
much more than the Swiss peasant of that mental culture which seems
necessary in order to relish the beautiful in nature or in art. His
superiority in this respect is owing, probably, to the education he has
acquired from the parish school, with which his country has been blessed
since the Reformation; to those social habits which make the upper and
lower classes mix so much together in the Highlands; to the
intellectual, as well as spiritual, training of the pulpit; and to the
historical traditions, the interesting moral tales, and singularly pure
and beautiful poems which are recited to the groups around the fireside
when shut up in their secluded valleys during winter. There is,
accordingly, often found in the Scottish Highlander a keen appreciation
of the natural beauty of his mountain-land; and among no people have
more local poets been found who, in devout hymns, tender songs, and
romantic ballads, have described the varied aspects of nature with more
truth, or in more felicitous language.
But whatever other causes may be recognised as
attracting the affections of the Highlander to his home, the sense of
possession cannot be overlooked. in exact proportion as land in a
settled country is valuable, its riches are shared by a numerous
population. The peasant or the farmer then occupies but a small portion
of the precious soil. The stiff hedge a little way from his dwelling
bounds the narrow spot he calls his own, and on which he can tread with
freedom. If he presumes to leave the beaten path, such announcements as
"No road this way,"— "Trespassers will be prosecuted," meet him at every
turn. A few acres thus include the field of his labour and of his
associations. An existence so cramped and confined as this is still more
characteristic of the inhabitant of the crowded city. He possesses but
one little cell in the huge beehive of industry. His home is
distinguished from others around it only by a number. He has, moreover,
so often changed his abode, that he probably finds it difficult to
discover, after the lapse of a few years, the house in which he was
born, or in which he may have spent some of his happiest days of
domestic life as a husband or a father. When the city-bred, therefore,
or the inhabitant of the rich South, thinks of his country, he
associates with the name not so much places as persons—abstractions like
those of "the constitution," "the Church," "trial by jury," or "Habeas
Corpus," rather than personal objects. But it is far otherwise with the
Highlander. He has lived, and probably so have his ancestors, for
several generations, in the same glen and in the same hamlet. His hut,
though humble, and almost lost in the landscape, as a tuft of heather or
a gray boulder, is yet associated with those who have made life dear to
him. It is a record of many family births, marriages, and deaths; and,
like a dial, he can mark his years by the alternate light and shade
which have passed over it. The grand picture, too, around
him, framed by the blue sky and wide horizon, has filled his eye
and soul since infancy. Alone, and amidst the long, unbroken silence of
the hills, he has gazed on those far-off peaks, as if no one but himself
had ever beheld them. He has wandered at his will among their lonely
glens and desolate corries. In his ear alone every wave seems to break
on the shore of the inland sea, every rivulet sing, and cataract roar.
His eye alone has watched every cloud gather around the mountain top,
every sunbeam touch the crags with glory at morn or even, every fitful
gleam of sunlight fall upon the misty moorland, or light up with silvery
sheen the islands far away. All this glorious panorama of precipice and
gorge, of birchwood and heath, of breezy headlands and boundless sea,
have been the possessions of his soul. No one has so shared them with
him as to disturb the sense of their being his own country and
home! If to those fascinations which, directly or indirectly, spring out
of the very wildness and sterility of the land, we add others pertaining
more to his social life—such as his intimate and long acquaintance with
the few inhabitants of the district; the strong ties and brotherhood of
feudal clanships; the excitements and dangers connected with his hunting
and fishing, and the crossing stormy friths and dreary mountains; the
periods of repose and rest amidst the sleep of the hills, on the bosom
of the deep, or at home during wintry storms, when the very eagle dare
not leave her eyrie and battle with the gale,— we need not be surprised
that the ardent and imaginative Celt should become possessed for life by
the love of that home which he has thus possessed as his life from
infancy. Hence the power which the great bagpipe exercises, not upon the
Highland peasant only, but on minds of the finest cast and highest
culture, who have been early smitten with his mountain passion. It is
not as a musical instrument that the Highlander admires it or
acknowledges its influence over his spirit; for, in this respect, he
would no more attempt to compare it with harp or lute than he would the
wild shrieks of the wintry gale among the rocks, or the beat of the
giant sea wave on the tangled shore, with an opera of Mozart or Rossini.
But he is subdued into tears by its wild pibroch, because of the
thoughts and memories of country and home which it awakens. The very
structure of its music sounds to him like the monotony of grief which
repeats its cry of anguish. It is to him the music of the past; a wail
for the dead and vanished; a lament for an age of feudal glory and
romance which have passed away on their "dun wings from Morven." The
gray cairn that marks where warriors sleep who fell in battle long ago;
the lonely lake, with the wandering wind moaning through its reedy
margin; the hoary hill with its coronal of mist of golden hues or snowy
wreaths; the mysteries of the sounding sea, with eddying tides and the
wild cries of birds; the springs where the deer drink;— "The
fairy-haunted valley, "Where, 'neath the dark hills, creeps the small
clear stream;" the ruined keep on the rocky promontory; the burial-place
of chiefs on the isle of saints, with the old chapel and grey cross; the
desolate churchyard where his own lie interred, around the old kirk in
the glen; the sounds of combat and of triumph, with the wailing for the
slain; the dim and impalpable visions of dark superstitions which
impressed his early imagination; and mingling with every image of the
past the beloved faces and forms of those who are no more—these are some
of the associations which make the music of the pibroch, with its
hurried and stormy notes, its piercing monotone of sorrow, or its low
dirgelike plaint of grief, stir up in every Highland heart the deep
passion of the hills, and his enthusiastic love for his own romantic
home. To such feelings, when kindled in the day of battle, or amidst the
woods or rising cities of the colonies, our country owes more than to
anything which either law or logic ever taught the Highlander.
On the other hand, the very physical character of his
country, which forges those bands that bind him to its bare mountains
and sterile soil, gives rise to antagonisms which compel his departure,
to see "Lochaber no more." Whether Highland emigration is right or wrong
on the part of the landlord, who makes it necessary for his tenants,
would lead us into inquiries beyond-the province of our magazine. The
great fact is sufficiently patent, that a poor soil cannot support a
population which unduly presses upon its utmost resources. If to this is
added political changes which render the number of a elan less important
to the chiefs than their rent; commercial changes which have made the
only Highland manufacture —that of kelp—that could employ the
population, no longer remunerative; the large bribes offered by the
aristocratic sportsman for the means of recruiting energies exhausted in
London, or in political life, by the excitements of the deer-forest and
the moor; the higher profits to be gained by large sheep-farms rather
than by small "holdings;" and a higher style of living to be
consequently enjoyed by lairds trained up to English rather than to
Highland habits—from such causes, we have little difficulty in
understanding how glens once populous should be deserted, and how the
wanderer may travel through vast inland tracts, where ruined cottages
and traces of cultivated fields, silent beneath the empty sky, mark the
spots where once lived a people as industrious, intelligent, hospitable,
loyal, and happy, as ever adorned a country. We do not inquire into the
legal right or the necessity, from a rigid and logical application of
the laws of political economy, for the awful uprooting in the Highlands
of the feelings of human hearts, which had so long struck deep into the
soil, and had reciprocally entwined themselves by a thousand fibres into
every cottage home for miles around. But as far as the Highlander
himself and the world are concerned, we have no hesitation in saying
that both have gained by this expatriation, whatever merit may be
attached to the intentions of those by whom it has been necessitated.
This fact of Highland emigration suggests an
observation, in passing, on the operation of a remarkable law in God's
providence, of which it forms an illustration,—the working, namely, of
those apparently opposing forces in human society, which, like the
centrifugal and centripetal forces in nature, at once attract and repel
masses, and thereby cause their orderly movements along the paths
designed for them by an all-wise Governor. For it is obviously God's
will that man should possess the earth and subdue it. But without
permanent residence, on the one hand, civilisation would be impossible;
while without movement and emigration, on the other, the ultimate
possessions of that noble home of unoccupied lands, so richly furnished
for the abode of man, would be equally impossible. These two conditions
of human progress are, however, beautifully adjusted in the providence
of God. For he has ordained one set of powerful forces to attract man,
and fix him in a certain locality, among which the inherent love of
country is not the least, and others of an opposite kind, of which
physical necessity is the most urgent, compelling his departure to seek
in new lands the comforts and blessings which at home are denied him and
his family. And thus we see the wonderful spectacle of Providence, by
means of famine lashing him with one hand from, the old home, and
with the other bribing him to a new one, by the hope of gold,
from newly discovered mines, or by the promise of a rich harvest
from a virgin soil. With what truth may it be said of many a poor
Highlander, as God said of Jacob, the lot of his inheritance: ''He found
him in a desert land, and in the waste howling wilderness; he led him
about, he instructed him, he kept him as the apple of his eye. As an
eagle stirreth up her nest, fluttereth over her young, spreadeth abroad
her wings, taketh them, beareth them on her wings; so the Lord alone did
lead him. He made him ride on the high places of the earth, that he
might eat the increase of the field." The home-nest may thus be fondly
cherished, and its inhabitants may be unwilling to leave it; but God in
His providence, by many severe trials, "stirs up the nest," and makes it
so uncomfortable, that its inhabitants must leave it, and spread their
untried pinions to a new world of action. Yet in mercy God helps them in
their weakness, He ''fluttereth over the young, and beareth them on his
wings." God has been thus compassionate towards the Highlanders, and has
led them into places where indeed they " eat the increase of the field."
It is a sight delightful to a lover of "his people
and kindred" to see how the Highlander succeeds as an emigrant in our
North American colonies. We specify those colonies, merely because we
have been privileged to see in them only this noble race of men
flourishing. And there we never saw any evidence of the laziness and
idleness for which they are unjustly blamed at home. Where these habits
exist in this country, we are persuaded that they are chiefly, if not
solely, the result of circumstances; of a life in which labour wants the
stimulus of any hope beyond the mere possibility of securing a scanty
subsistence. In the Far West these same men are the most enterprising,
persevering, and successful emigrants. They form also, beyond doubt, the
strongest and most enduring chains which unite the colonies to the
mother country. For one of the most interesting and remarkable features
of the Highlander abroad is, his undying love to the land which he still
fondly calls his ''home." Most truly has Wilson expressed it in his
emigrant's song—
"From the dim shieling on the misty island,
Mountains divide us and a world of seas;
But still our hearts are true, our hearts are Highland,
And we in dreams behold the Hebrides."
So true is this, that we believe the Highlander in
the colonies retains more of the spirit, the associations, the
peculiarities of the genuine Celt than thousands do who now inhabit "
the old country."
It is "the old country" which has inspired the
Highlander with those undying feelings, and stamped on his heart those
impressions which, like the features of his countenance, are transmitted
to his descendants who may have lost the memory of his name. No two
countries on earth can be more different than British North America, and
the Highlands of Scotland. The tame landscape, with the boundless
forests; the roads straight as an arrow, deep in mud or dust; the
sluggish rivers, with the wigwam only of the Indian, seen on their
shores ; the absence of all traditions, not a tree, or stone, or stream,
or hill, to tell a tale or sing a song ; springs without the songs of
birds ; long and oppressively hot summers, with mosquitoes, and long and
oppressively cold winters, with sledges; what a contrast does all this
present to Skye or Inverness! If the absence of the romantic parts, or
the grand present, is more than compensated for by the practical
benefits of good harvests, fat pigs, and independence, how soon might
mere material comforts produce a hard, selfish, commonplace
uninteresting character, unless balanced by the strong and imaginative
memories of the old romantic home! We feel persuaded that, in the event
of a war with the United States, the Highland
feeling will do more to rally on our side the Highland population
of the colonies, than all the arguments of statesmen or political
economists on one side or the other.
But let us illustrate, by a few instances, this
strong nationality of our expatriated countrymen. Take, for example,
their love of the Gaelic language, so ridiculed by the cockney, who
makes it a point to laugh at and despise everything unknown to ''the
city." This language is heard in its purity abroad, not only among those
who have acquired it in Scotland, but among those who have been reared
in the American wilderness. One of the most remarkable facts we know, as
shewing the undying life of a language, is the existence, to this day,
in South Carolina, U. S., of several congregations, making up at least
one Presbytery— we believe several—which have existed there for upwards
of a century, and have continued to demand and to obtain a supply of
pastors, who preach every Sabbath in the Gaelic language, without any
clergy being sent from the old country to fill the pulpit, or any people
by emigration to fill the pews!
From our own observation, we could afford many
striking instances of this constant clinging to their native tongue, in
spite of all the circumstances which might be supposed capable of
inducing them to substitute for it English, or a Yankee dialect. On a
beautiful autumnal evening we were sailing far up the Ottawa in a small
steamer, which was conveying, among other passengers, some Indians,
along with a band of Highlanders, to cut down trees, and "lumber" in the
distant backwoods. The sun had set, and the dark forest seemed to mingle
with the dark river. The one stood in relief against the calm sky, with
its glittering stars, which the other reflected from its glassy surface.
While pacing the upper deck, we were suddenly startled by a full chorus
of a Gaelic song which burst forth from a large group occupying the main
deck, and immediately below where we happened to be standing. On joining
the group we saw about twenty stalwart men (who had not hitherto
attracted our attention), sitting in a semicircle, and in Highland
fashion swinging their handkerchiefs passed like a rope from hand to
hand, singing and keeping time to an old familiar Gaelic song. When it
ceased we drew near, and asked what language they spoke. "Gaelic," was
the brief reply of one of the party. "Is that a spoken language?" was
the next question. "It is, and the best," was the only information
returned. ''Where is it spoken?" we again asked. "In the Highlands of
Scotland," said the same person, who seemed to be the interpreter; for
on again requesting that a few words might be slowly and distinctly
uttered, the said spokesman muttered a few epithets in Gaelic to his
countrymen, expressive of contempt, and were advised in the same
language to "let the ignorant fellow alone." But from courtesy he slowly
asked, in his native tongue, "Pray, from what part of the world are
you!" As slowly was the reply given, in Gaelic, "From the old
Highlands of Scotland! It was like an electric shock to the party. Every
man bounded to his feet, took off his bonnet, crowded round the speaker,
and gave him a Highland welcome and hearty "God bless you." Only one of
those men could speak English; all were enthusiastic Highlanders; yet
all had been born in Canada, and not one had ever left it!
It was while on this journey we halted at the village
of St Eustache. On entering a French auberge, to get some
refreshment for the driver of our conveyance, we addressed an
intelligent, black-eyed girl, first in English, then in French, and
German; but, getting no reply, except a shake of a head, whose face
beamed with intelligence, a last attempt was made to be understood by
speaking in Gaelic, when the face shone with increased light, like
sunrise breaking over a knoll of blooming heather. The girl had come the
day before only from the Canadian district of Lochiel, and had not
acquired any language but "her own."
It has been said, that Indians have sometimes acted
as interpreters between the Highlanders and French. It is a strange and
unexpected fusion of tongues. We recollect, on another occasion, during
a sultry journey through one of the forests of New Brunswick, coming to
a clearance in which stood a solitary hut. On entering it from
curiosity, and addressing a few words of conversation to a man who
seemed to be its possessor, and of a numerous herd of fat swine outside,
and of a healthy group of children inside, the reply was, "No English;"
yet that man had been forty years in the colony. But we must not
unnecessarily multiply our illustrations.
We cannot close this paper without recalling one of
the most impressive scenes it was ever our privilege to witness in
connexion with public worship. It was the dispensation of the sacrament
at Pictou, in Nova Scotia. The day was superb. Very early in the
morning, the Highlanders from the neighbouring settlements began to
arrive, and the influx continued until nearly eleven o'clock in the
forenoon. The large inland harbour was dotted with boats, all directing
their bows to the little capital of the district. Waggons rumbled from
every village and farm for miles round. On proceeding, during the day,
to a slightly rising ground which sloped in the opposite direction to
the ascent, thereby concealing for a time every object on the other
side, we at last reached the summit, on which a wooden pulpit was
erected, from which a distinguished Highland clergyman from the old
country was addressing the people in a most eloquent and impressive
sermon,—a sight suddenly burst upon the view which, once seen, can never
be forgotten. Several long tables, each having a hundred people or so
seated by them, were pitched on the green grass, and, according to the
forms of dispensing the communion in Scotland, they were covered with a
pure white cloth; and bread on salvers, with cups of wine, were slowly
passed down by the old "elders" who minister on such occasions. The
silence when the voice of the clergyman ceased, and the communion
proceeded, was profound. No sound of footsteps were echoed from the
group, not a whisper, not a breath was audible, while a congregation of
no fewer than four or five thousand Highlanders, old and young, sat on
the grass, or stood reverently around the communicants. As we gazed upon
those bronzed faces, every feature of which was Highland as the moorland
heath; and watched the patriarchs, with their heads bent towards the
table, and the "aged women," with their clean, old-fashioned caps, as
they covered their eyes with handkerchiefs moist with tears contributed
by the holiest memories of Calvary, mingled, doubtless, with those of
communions long ago in the old church far away; when one beheld the
young men and women who were growing up partakers of the same spirit;
all seemed so home-like, so thoroughly Highland,—the language, the
people, the psalm-tunes, the service,—that it required a glance at the
boundless forest covering the hills, and losing itself in the distant
horizon, to be brought back to the reality that all were exiles from
their country, yet clinging to the language, the religious customs, and,
better still, to the pure faith of their fathers. Could our readers only
have seen that simple and holy communion, and heard the hymn of praise
as it ascended from that multitude assembled in the mighty temple not
made with hands, and witnessed the solemnised look of those humble
worshippers, and felt the warm pressure from their honest hands, and
listened to the expressions of deep gratitude poured forth from their
full hearts, we feel assured that with us they would ever after feel an
undying interest in whatever concerned the temporal or spiritual good of
our noble Highlanders in the colonies of British North America.