"Many a flower is born to blush
unseen,
And waste its sweetness on the desert air:’
full many a heart, alive to the
charms of nature, is at the same time, doomed to undue confinement by the
hard necessities of artificial life, and left to pine and fret amid the
weary cares of the city. The hills alluded to are familiarly known as the
"Cathkin Braes," and our present purpose is to request the company of our
gentle readers on a ramble through the intervening country and along their
summits.
Leaving the City then by Rutherglen-loan,
on the south side of the river, this sweet morning in the "leafy month of
June," we proceed cheerily on our route. it is some time, however, before
we get completely beyond the region of smoke. If fashionable Glasgow is
progressing towards the setting sun, her manufacturing industry is moving
at an equally rapid rate in an opposite direction. If crescents, squares,
terraces, and villas, of every imaginable order and disorder of
architecture, are rising at the west end, mills, printworks, and foundries
are almost as profusely springing up by way of counterbalance towards it
eastern extremity. In the direction in which we are now proceeding, where
a few years since there were nothing to be seen but gardens and fields of
waving grain, there is now a large community of factories and workshops,
and a perfect forest of tall chimneys. The sight of such a vast extension
of our manufacturing capabilities is doubtless highly gratifying to our
local pride, yet, while muttering something about the flourishing of
Glasgow, we are fain to hasten on our way, as we feel but a limited degree
of pleasure in lingering where our lungs are necessarily made to perform
the rather disagreeable functions of a smoke-consuming apparatus.
About half-a-mile beyond the
outskirts of our manufacturing Babel, the road crosses the Rutherglen
Burn, which having its origin in the Cathkin hills, after an exceedingly
devious course, falls into the Clyde at Little Govan, nearly opposite the
well-known bathing place in Glasgow Green. Close to the bridge which here
spans the rivulet are the Shawfleldbank printworks. Immediately adjacent
is an extensive dam, surrounded with trees and thickly interspersed with
aquatic vegetation. This is a favourite haunt of the water hen (gallinula
chloropus), which may be here observed by the disciple of the good old
Gilbert White of Selborne, swimming about among the green sedges and "puddockpipes"
(as the equiseta are familiarly called), in search of the small fishes and
larva on which it feeds. At present, while the process of nidification is
going on, they are seldom to be observed near the margin of the water; but
in the gray autumnal mornings we have often surprised scores of them in a
neighbouring field, and been amused to see their helter-skelter movements
in returning to the water, when the alarm-note was raised. Previously to
the formation of this dam, an ancient tumulus or burial-mound occupied a
portion of the space now covered by its waters. This relic of a
prehistoric antiquity was removed about the end of the last century.
Passing Shawfleld Toll, we walk
about a mile between lengthened ranges of those hateful "dikes," now so
common around our large towns, and which are always so unwelcome to the
pedestrian. Their tediousness, however, is relieved in the present
instance by green boughs, which, in spite of exclusive owners, seem
determined to find their way over the stony enclosures, and by the singing
of birds which know not of artificial boundaries. We soon arrive at the
ancient burgh of Rutherglen. Although now a comparatively small and
insignificant member of the burghfamily, Rutherglen boasts a greater
antiquity than her extensive and opulent neighbour. Her territories, it is
alleged, at one period even included the site of the present manufacturing
capital of the west; and tradition yet tells that the architects who
erected our venerable Cathedral were indebted for bed and board to the
Ruglen folk of that day. According to a legend common in our boyhood among
the auld wives of Glasgow, but of course banished by that general
diffusion of philosophy which has given Jack the Giant-Killer his quietus,
and blighted the wondrous bean-stalk, it was said that the lie Kirk was
the work of a race of wee pechs (Picts) who had their domiciles in
Rutherglen. These queer bits o’ bodies, it was added, constructed a
subterranean passage between the two localities, a work which throws the
famous Thames Tunnel completely into shade; and as they were stronger than
ordinary men, they experienced no difficulty in transporting their
building materials through this bowel of the earth without equestrian aid.
Had any of the juvenile listeners round the winter evening hearth dared to
hint a doubt of the credibility of this story, he was forthwith silenced
by the corroborative tale of the Highland piper. This worthy (who, as we
have since learned, is made to do similar service for sundry other
apocryphal passages of a kindred description) is said to have volunteered,
a goodly number of years ago, with his pipes and his dog to explore this
famous underground way. According to the story he entered one day playing
a cheery tune, and confident of a successful result, but, as the good old
lady who narrated the circumstance to us was wont to say, with bated
voice, "he was never seen nor heard tell o’ again." The sound of his
pipes, however, was heard some hours afterwards in the vicinity of
Dalmarnock, and to the ears of those who heard it, seemed to repeat, in a
wailing key, something like the ominous words,— "I doot, I doot, I’ll
ne’er get out" —After this tragical event the mouth of the mysterious
tunnel was very properly ordered to be closed up, and so effectually has
the command been obeyed, that every after-search for it has proved utterly
unavailing.
Rutherglen
consists principally of one street, which lies in a direction nearly east
and west, and is about half-a-mile in length. This thoroughfare, which is
broad and well paved, has a number of wynds or narrow streets branching
off to the north and south. Like most old towns, it has been built without
any fixed plan, and has consequently somewhat of an irregular and
straggling appearance. The houses have but little pretension to
architectural elegance. They are mostly plain two storeyed buildings, with
a considerable sprinkling of low thatched cottages, which give it a
somewhat old-fashioned and primitive aspect. Near the centre of the town
is the parish church, a quadrangular edifice of modern erection. The
steeple of a small though very ancient church, on the site of which the
present one was built, stands in the vicinity, a venerable memorial of
bygone ages, and associated with recollections of several interesting
events in Scottish history. According to Blind Harry, the biographer of
Wallace, a peace was concluded here between England and Scotland in 1297.
In describing the circumstance the minstrel says, in lines the orthography
of which will puzzle some of our readers, we dare say,—
"At Ruglen kirk ye traist yan halff
ye set
A promise, maid, to meet Wallace; but let
Ye day offyis approchyt wonder fast,
Ye gret Chanslar and Aylmer yidder past.
"Syne Wallace came, and his men well
beseyne,
With hym fifty all arrayt in greyne,
Ilk ane of yaim a bow and arrowis bar,
And lang swerds ye whilk full scharply schar:"
From the same authority we learn that it was also at
this place that the "fause Menteith" engaged for English gold to
consign his name to eternal infamy, by the betrayal of the peerless Knight
of Ellerslie,
"A messenger, Schir Aylmer, has gart
pass
On to Schir Ihon, and sone a tryst has set
At Ruglen Kirk, ylr twa togydder met."
The old bard then goes onto describe, in indignant
language, the paction entered into, and its fatal results.
Like the famous Alloway Kirk, the
sacred pile of Rutherglen seems occasionally to have been the scene of
diabolical orgies. At least we have the authority of a decent elderly
gudewife for asserting that such was the case. According to her, when Mr.
Dickson, who suffered sair during the persecution, was in the ministry at
Ruglen, the reverend gentleman was riding up the main street of the burgh
one night at the witching hour. While passing along the kirk-yard wall, he
fancied, to his surprise, that he heard sounds of merriment issuing from
his own church. Being a man of some courage, he at once dismounted from
his steed, made his way into the grave-yard, which was then, as now,
elevated, with its time-honoured elms, a few feet above the level of the
street, and, looking into the sacred edifice, which was lighted up as if
for a festival, beheld, to his horror and amazement, several of his own
congregation, male and female, engaged in some mysterious ceremony, in
company with a gentleman in black, whom he at once knew, from a well-known
peculiarity of foot, as the enemy of mankind. Provoked beyond forbearance
at the desecration of his church, and the evident backsliding of a portion
of his flock, he roared out with the voice of a stentor, "Ye’ll no deny
this the morn, ye limmers!" and turning on his heel, remounted his horse,
and commenced making the best of his way home. Not having the benefit of a
running stream, however, as the gudeman o’ Shanter had, the worthy
minister was soon overtaken; and although the powers of darkness durst not
injure a hair of his head, yet by their cantrips they contrived to render
both horse and rider as rigid as a couple of petrifactions. Stock-still
they were compelled to stand, unable to move hand or foot, nor would the
bargi of warlocks and witches release them from this statuesque state, but
on condition that his reverence would give his solemn pledge never to
divulge the names of those whom he had discovered in such questionable
company. This, although with reluctance, he was ultimately fain to do; and
so well did he keep his promise, that who the members of the diabolical
soirde really were, has never yet been certainly discovered. The old lady
added, however, that "there could be nae doot anent the truth o’ the
circumstance, for it wasna very likely that Mr. Dickson, honest man, was
gaun to mak up a leein’ story even against siccan deil’s buckies."
The Castle of Rutherglen seems to
have been at one time a place of considerable strength and importance.
This structure, which was said to have been erected by Reuther, a king
whose name is associated with the origin of the town, was indeed ranked
among the fortresses of the country. During the troubles which broke out
in consequence of the contested claims of Bruce and Baliol, the usurper,
Edward of England, took possession of this and other castles of Scotland.
Robert the Bruce, when he raised the standard of his country’s
independence, determined to wrest this important place of strength from
the English. He accordingly laid siege to it in the year 1309. On hearing
of this, Edward sent his nephew, the young Earl of Gloucester, to relieve
the garrison. What the immediate result was is somewhat doubtful. Some
historians assert that Bruce overcame the garrison, while others are of
opinion that he was forced to retire without accomplishing his purpose. In
1313, however, the Scottish king took possession of Rutherglen Castle,
having driven the English from the country, and made a descent upon
England, carrying fire and sword into several of the northern counties.
This is almost the only instance in
which the Castle of Rutherglen figures in history. The edifice, however,
continued in existence until the battle of Langside, when it was burned to
the ground by the Regent Murray, as an act of vengeance on the house of
Hamilton, in whose hands it then was. One of the towers was afterwards
repaired and fitted up as a residence by Hamilton of Ellistoun, who was
then laird of Shawfield and other property in the vicinity. On the decline
of the family it was again suffered to fall into decay, and at length
became entirely dilapidated, and was levelled with the ground. We may
mention that the ruin of the Hamilton family was generally ascribed, at
the time, to an immediate judgment of Heaven, drawn down upon them by
their persecuting spirit. At the period when our covenanting forefathers
made such a noble stand for liberty of conscience and the independence of
the national church, the minister of Rutherglen was a Mr. John Dickson. In
consequence of an information lodged by Sir James Hamilton of Ellistoun,
this good man was dragged from his church, and put in prison. We shall
quote a passage from Wodrow’s History, to show the sequel:—"Mr.
Dickson was kept in durance till the parliament sat, when his church was
vacated and he was brought into much trouble. We shall afterwards find him
a prisoner in the Bass for near seven years; and yet he got through his
troubles, and returned to his charge at Rutherglen, and for several years
after the Revolution served his Master there, till his death in a good old
age. While that family who pursued him, is awhile extinct, and their
house, as Mr. Dickson foretold, in the hearing of some yet alive, after it
had been a habitation for owls, the foundation-stones of it were digged
up." Such is the story as given by Mr. Wodrow, minister of Eastwood or
Pollokshaws, and who wrote immediately after the event. He further
says,—"The inhabitants there (that is, at Rutherglen) cannot but observe
that the informers, accusers, and witnesses against Mr. Dickson, some of
them then magistrates of the town, are brought so low that they are
supported by the charity of the parish." We shall not take the judgments
of Heaven thus into our hands. We shall not say that the curse of the
persecutor fell upon this family, and laid their proud mansion in the
dust; but we shall ever revere the memories of such men as Dickson and
Wodrow, and while we acknowledge that there is prejudice and intolerance
in their recorded language, we shall lay the blame rather at the door of
their adversaries than at theirs, because persecution is ever the mother
of intolerance and all unkindness.
We may mention, before passing from
this subject, that the castle stood near the east end of the Back-row, and
nearly opposite to where that thoroughfare is intersected by Castle
Street. The garden of Mr. John Bryson now occupies the very spot. There is
not now, however, even the faintest vestige of the structure. About eighty
years ago the foundation-stones were removed. They were very large,
measuring five feet in length by four in breadth. Some of the
cornice-stones were to be seen in a wall near the town for some years, but
they too have disappeared, and now the ancient Castle of Rutherglen has
utterly passed away, leaving not even a wreck behind.
Besides the parish church,
Rutherglen has no fewer than four other places of worship, viz., a chapel
in connection with the Establishment, a United Presbyterian, a Free, and a
Roman Catholic church. The inhabitants would therefore seem to have their
spiritual wants pretty well provided for. From this abundance of churches
it would appear that their religious character is infinitely superior to
that of their ancestors, who were occasionally blamed for conduct, in
matters ecclesiastical, anything but accordant with propriety, as will be
abundantly evident from the following curious facts extracted from the
records of the Presbytery of Glasgow:—
On 8th May, 1593, the Presbytery
ordered their clerk to write a letter to my Lord Paisley, to repair the
choir of Ruglen kirk, and at the same time prohibited the playing of pipes
on Sunday from sun-rising to its going down, and forbade all pastimes on
that day. This order to be read in all kirks, but "especially in that of
Ruglen." On the 20th of May, 1595, we find the same reverend court
complaining of the introduction of profane plays into the burgh on Sunday,
and also of the drawing of salmon and the paying of accounts on that day.
From the same source we learn that on the 20th of March, 1604, Sir Claud
Hamilton of Shawfield interrupted the minister of Ruglen during sermon in
a most barbarous manner, and that Andrew Pinkerton boasted that he had put
away four ministers from Ruglen, and hoped he would put away Mr. Hamilton
also. He afterwards drew a whinger and held it to the minister’s breast,
while David Spens said "he would stick twa ministers, and would not give a
fig for excommunication." Two or three years subsequent to these
outrageous proceedings, we find a certain James Riddel cutting grass in
the kirk-yard on Sunday, and sitting down to the communion-table in spite
of minister and session. Altogether, it would seem that in those days the
parish of Rutherglen was not in a condition much superior to that of the
notorious Dunkeld, the inhabitants of which, according to popular rhyme,—
"Hanged their minister,
Drooned their precentor,
Pud doon the steeple,
And brak' the kirk bell."
Things are, however, in a much
superior condition now-a-days, the inhabitants being generally an
industrious, decent, and kirk-going people, attached to their ministers,
and especially attentive to the education of their children, as is
sufficiently evident from the attendance of pupils at the two commodious
and handsome seminaries which have been erected in connection with the
Established and Free Churches. They seem, moreover, to have been
remarkably tenacious of old customs. The riding of the marches, once an
annual ceremony in every Scottish burgh, continued to be celebrated in
Rutherglen until 1832, when it was discontinued. We understand, however,
that it has since been at least partially revived. Another ancient custom,
the baking of sour cakes on St. Luke’s eve, is peculiar to the burgh, and
is supposed to have had an origin anterior to Christianity itself. We have
ourselves witnessed this curious operation in the Thistle Inn of
Rutherglen—within the past two or three years. This mystic baking requires
for its proper execution the services of some six or eight elderly ladies.
These, with each a small bake-board on her knee, are seated in a
semicircle on the floor of the apartment devoted to the purpose, and pass
the cakes, which are formed of a kind of fermented dough, in succession
from one to the other, until the requisite degree of tenuity is attained,
when they are dexterously transferred to an individual called the queen,
who, with certain ceremonies, performs the operation of toasting. These
cakes, which we have often tasted, are generally given to strangers
visiting St. Luke’s fair: They are somewhat like
a wafer in
thickness, of an agreeable acidulous taste, and lend an additional relish
to the drams usually in extra demand at such times. The lover of old
customs would regret the discontinuance of this curious ceremony, the
observance of which forms an interesting link between the present age and
an impenetrable antiquity.
Rutherglen has long been famed for
its horse and cattle fairs, seven of which are held on the main street of
the burgh annually, and generally attract considerable crowds of buyers
and sellers from all parts of the country. The Clydesdale breed of horses,
which has attained such a well-deserved celebrity for its excellent
qualities, was generally exposed in greater numbers and in greater
perfection at the Rutherglen fairs than at any other market. The principal
fairs are the Beltane in May, and St. Luke’s in November, when the town is
generally crowded with strangers. According to the last census, the number
of the population was 6,947, of whom 3,430 were males, and 3,517 females.
It would therefore appear that there is a trifling excess of the fair sex
in the burgh, but the overplus is not sufficiently great to excite
anything like serious alarm, more especially as the well-known beauty of
the Rutherglen lasses is certain to attract a considerable number of
wanters from other localities.
Alter rambling about the burgh for a
considerable time, and visiting "Din’s Dykes," where two boorish rustics
attempted to intercept the unfortunate Mary on her flight from Langside,
we proceed towards Cathkin by the Glasgow and Muirkirk road. About a
quarter of a-mile on the way we pass through Stonelaw, the vicinity of
which is finely timbered, having been extensively planted about sixty
years ago by Major Spens, then proprietor of the estate. The botanist
would do well to imitate our example, and linger for a brief space in the
umbrageous recesses of these beautiful woods, which contain many of our
finest indigenous plants. Among these are the periwinkle (vinca minor),
with its glossy leaves and blue or white flowers, which is more
abundant here than we have seen it elsewhere; the hop (humulus lupulus);
the spreading bell-flower (campanula latiffolia); the lesser
winter-green (pyrola minor); the rare mountain currant (ribes
alpinum); various species of gerania, and many others, which will
abundantly repay a leisurely inspection.
In passing Stonelaw our attention is
attracted by a kind of tower, near the road, which, although of
comparatively modern erection, is quite as picturesque as an ancient
feudal keep, being completely embedded in ivy, which is trailing over and
around it in the most beautiful profusion. This ivy is at present the
haunt of innumerable starlings and sparrows, which appear to be proceeding
merrily under its shade with their various domestic duties. During the few
minutes we stand looking at it, we count not less than twenty starlings
leaving the tower in search of supplies, and nearly as many returning in
different directions with the fruit of their raids through the broader
fields around. As for the sparrows, they appear to live on the most
harmonious terms with their starry neighbours, and keep up such an
incessant chattering that it is obvious they are quite at home, and, as
usual, enjoying themselves with characteristic sangfroid. A more
than ordinarily well-tempered and philosophic man the inside tenant of
that tower must be, or he would infallibly be driven distracted by the
noisy intercourse of his feathered friends outside, not to speak of the
depredations which their well-known voracity must lead them to perpetrate
on his garden. [Since this was written, the tower has been denuded of its
covering, and the birds have consequently been forced to betake themselves
to ether quarters.]
From Stonelaw to Cathkin the road
gradually ascends through a delightful succession of gently swelling
knolls and fields in a high state of cultivation, interspersed with clumps
of wood and fine belts of planting, the haunts of numerous birds, and at
this season of love ringing merrily with their sweetest melodies.
Passing Boultrie Loch, a favourite
curling place in winter—but which, as an Irishman might say, is in summer
no loch at all, but a verdant meadow, being regularly drained every
spring, when its alluvial bottom is sown with some kind of cereal crop—we
next come to Cathkin House, the fine seat of Humphrey Ewing M’Lea, Esq.,
situated at the eastern extremity of the braes, and commanding an
extensive and beautiful prospect. Turning to the right, we now leave the
road we have hitherto been pursuing, and proceed along the summit of the
Cathkin hills on the way to Carmunnock, which lies at the distance of a
mile and a-half or so to the west. For a great portion of this distance,
the view is walled in as it were by dense woods; but ever and anon an
opening occurs through which the eye is permitted to roam over an
exquisite and fur-stretching tract of country. We soon arrive at the
highest point of the range, which is said to be elevated about 500 feet
above the level of the sea. The atmosphere is delightfully clear, so that
the landscape, which is spacious and lovely, is seen to great perfection.
At our feet, half-hidden among its old ancestral trees, lies Castle-milk,
a stately structure of considerable antiquity, and where, it is said, Mary
Queen of Scots slept on the night preceding Langside; in the low grounds
beyond are seen the burgh of Rutherglen, and our own good city, nestling,
as usual, under her canopy of smoke, with a variety of other towns and
villages, including Cathcart, Pollokshaws, Paisley, and Renfrew. The
course of the Clyde is here seen at a glance from Carmyle to Dumbarton,
the glittering waters like the convolutions of a mighty snake turning up
to the light every here and there amongst the beautiful wilderness of
woods and fields, over which the winds are making their mimic waves of
verdure while we stand gazing on the scene. To the east on the far
horizon, are Arthur’s Seat and the Pentland Hills in the vicinity of old
Edina, "Scotia’s darling seat;" to the north, Benlomond, Benledi, and the
Cobbler, with their giant neighbours; to the west, Glenifer, and Fereneze
braes, with Goatfell peering far away over their green summits.
Altogether, the prospect from this spot is one of great interest and
magnificence, and embraces, it is said, within its scope no fewer than
sixteen counties. Scattered around our feet are the yellow mountain violet
(viola idea), the blaeberry plant (vaccinium myrtillus) with
its pretty little crimson bells, and the golden tasselled broom, forming
an appropriate crest to the hill which, as tradition loves to tell, once
bore on its brow Scotia’s fairest and most unfortunate Queen.
To the geologist, the Cathkin range
presents but few features of interest, being composed principally of one
solid and uniform mass of whin. A short distance below the house of the
proprietor, however, a beautiful specimen of basalt is exposed to view.
The columns above the surface are about thirty feet in height, pentagonal
in form, and being extremely regular in arrangement, form a fine natural
colonnade. This curious formation, an engraving of which was published in
Ure’s History of Rutherglen
about the end of the last century, was discovered a
considerable number of years since by some individuals when quarrying for
road-metal. The proprietors, with commendable taste, have since preserved
it from further dilapidation.
A group of gigantic burial mounds,
or tumuli, formerly stood upon the Cathkin hills a short distance to the
south of Cathkin House. These were formed of unhewn stones, and were of
great extent. One, which was opened for the sake of the stones it
contained, was found to measure 260 feet, and to consist in the interior
of a long gallery, or chamber, containing a number of curious relies, such
as brass vessels, beads of glass, and other articles. Another of these
rude mansions of the dead, popularly called Queen Mary’s Law, measured 18
feet in height and 120 feet in diameter. For several years it served as a
perfect quarry to the farmers in the neighbourhood, and at length a
chamber was discovered in its interior containing no fewer than
twenty-five urns for the reception of the ashes of the departed. These
urns, as was the custom, were placed with their mouths downwards, and
under each was a piece of white stone. In the centre of this pile another
small chamber was disclosed, in which were found a quantity of human
bones, with a ring or armlet of cannel coal, and a comb of the same
material. Since that period all these interesting structures have been
from time to time removed, until there is not even one now remaining. We
have conversed with an individual who superintended the removal of
several, the stones being used for the construction of dykes and barns. He
stated that they invariably found one or more urns within them, and that
these were formed of unbaked clay, which crumbled into dust shortly after
being exposed to the air. It is certainly to be regretted that some of
these most interesting and suggestive relics were not spared for the
gratification of the antiquary, and as objects of contemplation to the
poetic wanderer. Among such tombs there was indeed abundant scope for the
most serious reflection. For many a long and dreary century they had kept
their trust in defiance of the wind and the rain; and the tale they told
was of an age before the light of Christianity had dawned on our isle—of a
dark and distant era, when our sires were a band of painted savages, and
when the altar-fires of Baal, from the brow of Dychmont, still threw a
lurid lustre over the valley of the Clyde.
The old road from Rutherglen to
Kilbride passed over the braes of Cathkin, and in our boyish days a
considerable extent of their surface was patent to ramblers from that
burgh and from Glasgow. The privilege was often abused, as is too
frequently the case where such liberties are granted, by thoughtless or
evil-disposed parties. Fences were occasionally broken and depredations
committed on the plantations and the crops, until at length, a few years
since, the proprietor thought proper to exclude the public from the spot
altogether. Considerable indignation was excited in the popular mind by
this measure, and there was some talk of making a "Harvie’s Dyke" affair
of it, and endeavouring, through the instrumentality of law, to enforce
the right of way on the plea of immemorial usage. The excitement, however,
gradually died away, no practical steps were taken in the matter, and now
the silence and solitude of Cathkin are but seldom disturbed by the foot
of the holiday wanderer.
Between the summit of the braes and
Carmunnock, about a quarter of a-mile to the southward of the road, and on
a wild tract of moorland, are the traces of an ancient British camp. To
this spot we now direct our steps, disturbing on our way several snipes,
which here breed among the moist marshy hollows. We also occasion infinite
consternation among the lapwings or peeseweeps, which keep wheeling round
our head, and clamouring vociferously as erst their ancestors may have
done to the sad discomfiture of the persecuted Covenanters, who, in their
hiding-places among the moors, were frequently alarmed lest the cries of
the lapwing should attract to their "whereabouts" the attention of the
passing dragoons. The elegant and affectionate bird alluded to, from this
habit, prompted by love of its offspring, was, we may remark en
passant, anything but a favourite with the "worthies," and it was even
said to be in league with the enemy of our race for the exposure of the
faithful. We soon arrive at the camp, the outlines of which are still,
after the lapse of many centuries, distinctly visible. It is circular in
form, of considerable extent, and is still surrounded by a wide and
somewhat deep ditch. From its elevated position, it commands an extensive
prospect of the surrounding country. Whatever other purposes, therefore,
such an encampment may have been designed to serve, it seems at least to
have been well adapted for watchfulness. The view from this interesting
footprint of the past embraces within its range the villages of Busby and
Eaglesham, with the hill of Ballygeich in the Mearns, and the bleak
moorlands beyond Kilbride. The tufted cannach here waves in the blast its
snowy plumes, the curious sun-dew (drosera rotundifolia) is also
met here, with its glittering beads of dew unmelting "in very presence of
the regal sun;" with the marsh violet (viola palustris) creeping in
beauty along the untrodden heath, and the buckbean (menyantises
trifoliata) and marsh cinque-foil (cornarum palustre) rising
above the dark moss-water.
Shortly after leaving the camp we
arrive at Carmunnock, a pleasant little village, with some score or so of
houses, situated at the western extremity of the Cathkin hills. The
population of the parish, consisting principally of agriculturists and
weavers, numbered at the late census 717, being an increase of only ten
individuals within the last decade! It has an old-fashioned barn-like
church, which stands about the centre of the village, and an exceedingly
commodious and well-built school, from which, as we pass, the juvenile
Carmunnockians are pouring forth with that dinsome glee which is only
heard at the skailing o’ the schule, and which at once calls back to the
memory of us "children of a larger growth," the joys of other years.
In the Statistical Account of
Carmunnock, published about 1840, there is a fact stated which must
fill with envy the assessment-crushed unfortunates of our city parishes.
There has hitherto been no levy for poor-rates, and the worthy minister,
with justifiable complacency, expresses his belief that such a thing as a
compulsory assessment for the support of the poor is not at all likely
ever to be required. What a delightful little city of refuge this must
appear to the pauper-ridden denizens of Sanct Mungo; what an oasis in the
desert, far away from the persecuting tax-gatherer, who, on some pretence
or other, is eternally prying into our books, and making town’s talk of
our most secret affairs! The minister, likewise, boasts that no individual
belonging to the parish was ever convicted of a capital crime. Why, the
golden age would seem to be lingering at the south-west end of Cathkin
braes, and we should not be surprised, if the knowledge of these good
matters once gets wind, that the next census will show an infinite
addition to the ratio of increase in the population of this really
pleasant and picturesque, as well as almost pauperless and felonless
parish.
We have now arrived at the
prescribed limit of our excursion, and after resting our somewhat wearied
limbs, for a brief space, in a tidy country alehouse, which, for
cleanliness and comfort, would have pleased even the fastidious eye of old
Izaak Walton, and paying due homage to the maxim of a genuine Scotch poet,
who recommends us on the journey of life
"Aye to live by the way,"
we commence our homeward walk by
Cathcart, a distance of some five miles, which, being principally
downhill, is speedily accomplished.