Few towns can boast such a spacious and beautiful
public park as the Green of Glasgow, with its wide-spreading lawns, its
picturesque groups of trees, its far-winding walks, its numerous delicious
springs, and, above all, its rich command of scenery. The "lungs of
London" may exceed it in extent of surface and in artificial adornment,
but in beauty of situation and variety of prospect, our own Green
certainly surpasses any of the street-girt metropolitan breathing-places.
The Green of Glasgow lies to the south-east of the city, on the north bank
of the Clyde, which, in a fine bold sweep, forms its southern boundary. It
embraces in all about 140 imperial acres, and is surrounded by a
carriage-drive two and a-half miles in length, besides being intersected
in every direction by gravelled walks, overhung in some instances by the
foliage of stately trees, which forms a pleasant screen from the noon-day
sun or the pelting shower; while every here and there seats have been
erected for the convenience of the weary lounger.
At what period the nucleus of this handsome park first
became the property of the community cannot now be ascertained; but it is
supposed to have formed part of a grant which was made by James the Second
of Scotland to a certain William Turnbull, Lord of Provan and Bishop of
Glasgow, on the 20th of April, 1450. In the document conferring the gift,
the pious monarch declares that, "for the praise of Almighty God, and of
the glorious Virgin Mary, and the blessed Kentigern, patron and confessor
of the Church of Glasgow, and for the love which we bear to the Reverend
Father in Christ, William, present Bishop in said Church, we have given to
the said Bishop and his successors for ever, the City of Glasgow, Barony
of Glasgow, and lands commonly called the Bishop’s Forest, with their
pertinents in woods, plains, meadows, marshes, pasturages," &c., &c. This,
it will be admitted, was a right royal gift. To build a bridge or a church
was, in the "good old times," reckoned a pretty safe passport with St.
Peter; and it is to be hoped that such a handsome donation as the above
would win for the regal donor (a mere boy, by the by!) the especial favour
of Mother Church, and secure for him after death a rapid passage through
the dreary labyrinths of purgatory. If the Green, however, was included in
the pious grant of the unfortunate James, who was subsequently killed at
the siege of Roxburgh by the bursting of a cannon, it was at all events
originally of much smaller dimensions than it is in our day. From time to
time, with praiseworthy spirit, the authorities, as the city increased in
extent, secured adjacent portions of territory, until in 1792, by the
purchase of the Fleshers’ Haugh from Patrick Bell, Esq. of Cowcaddens, the
Green ultimately attained its present size. The improvement of these
spacious grounds has also been effected in a gradual manner. At no very
distant date they were traversed by the Redclaith Gott, or Camlachie Burn,
as it is now called, and also by the Molendinar rivulet; while, from the
lowness of the banks at certain places, they were liable to be overflowed
by every spate in the river; and even at spring-tides, pools and islands
were occasionally formed on their surface. From the period of the
Revolution until the present time, a succession of improvements on the
Green have been effectively carried out. The
landward boundary is protected by walls and railings - banks have been
formed to restrain the incursions of the river—moist places have been
drained—the Molendinar and Camlachie burns have been arched over, and are
now conveyed by invisible channels to the Clyde—hollows have been filled
up—inequalities have been levelled—trees have been planted—and enclosures
have been formed; while the general aspect has been greatly ameliorated
and beautified. Among the more prominent benefactors of the Green in times
past, were Provosts Peter and George Murdoch, the latter of whom formed
the fine serpentine walks, bordered with shrubbery, which are still
remembered by the old inhabitants, but which were removed in consequence
of certain abuses to which they were occasionally liable. In our own day
the late Dr. Clelland distinguished himself by his attention to the
amenities of the Green: under his auspices the splendid carriage-drive was
formed, and many other improvements effected. More recently, Councillor
Moir has deservally gained golden opinions by his exertions in the same
field; and when his projected ameliorations are completed, the Green will
undoubtedly present an appearance vastly superior to what has hitherto
been witnessed, and which will challenge comparison with that of any
public park in the empire.
In defence of their privileges the craftsmen of Glasgow
have ever been honourably distinguished. It was to their public-spirited
resistance to the iconoclastic fury of the Reformation that we are
indebted for the preservation of our beautiful Cathedral. The same
determined spirit has been. evoked on several occasions in defence of the
Green. In 1744 the Provost and Magistrates were desirous of selling a
portion of it, and were only dissuaded from the act by the clamorous
opposition which the proposal excited. On various subsequent occasions
encroachments on the Green have been attempted, and in some instances even
to a certain extent effected; but such has invariably been the indignation
excited by invasions of this nature, that they have generally proved
abortive. Many of our readers will remember the outburst of popular
feeling which occurred a few years since, on the erection of a theatre
upon the vacant space opposite the public Jail, and also the vigorous
opposition with which the proposal to carry a railway over a portion of
the Green was received. It is but fair, however, to mention, that our
civic authorities, notwithstanding the occasional exceptions alluded to,
have generally proved faithful guardians of the public park, and have
expended with an ungrudging liberality, the large sums originally required
for its extension, and subsequently for its improvement and embellishment.
In the hands of our present enlightened and public-spirited Magistracy and
Council, the citizens have happily nothing to fear with regard to the
preservation of such a valuable privilege as the Green; but were it
otherwise, we have the utmost confidence that our modern craftsmen are not
unworthy of their ancestors, and like them are possessed
"Of heath resolved, and hands prepared,
The blessings they enjoy to guard,"
and that any violation of the popular territory would
assuredly be met with an uncompromising resistance.
Having thus glanced, in a cursory manner, at the origin
and gradual increase and improvement of the Glasgow Green, let us now
indulge ourselves with a leisurely stroll within its precincts. It is a
beautiful day in this merriest month of the year, and issuing from the
sweltering and bustling streets, the verdure even of the much-trodden
sward brings a pleasing sense of freshness to the eye of him who, long "in
populous city pent," has yearned to see the bright livery of woods and
fields. The welcome sunshine, penetrating even into wynds and vennels,
with its golden invitation from on high, has called forth their wan and
filthy inhabitants in swarms. In the vicinity of the Saltmarket, where we
have made our entree, the Green is all
alive with squalid groups, the children of misery and vice. Beguiled by
the radiance of the summer noon, they have sneaked forth, for a brief
interval, from their rocky and noisome haunts, to breathe for a time the
comparatively "caller air." Unfortunate females, with faces of triple
brass hiding hearts of unutterable woe—sleeping girls, who might be
mistaken for lifeless bundles of rags—down-looking scoundrels, with felony
stamped on every feature—owlish-looking knaves, minions of the moon,
skulking half ashamed at their own appearance in the eye of day; and,
alas! poor little tattered and hungry-looking children, with precocious
lines of care upon their old-mannish features, tumbling about on the brown
and sapless herbage. The veriest dregs of Glasgow society, indeed, seem
congregated here. At one place a band of juvenile pickpockets are absorbed
in a game at pitch-and-toss; at a short distance a motley crew are engaged
putting the stone, or endeavouring to outstrip each other in a leaping
bout, while oaths and idiot laughter mark the progress of their play.
You must not confound these parties with what are
called the lower orders of our city. There is a deep within a deep in the
social scale to compare even the humblest working-man with such wretches,
would be in truth a wicked libel. The industrious poor are now at their
various useful, and therefore honourable occupations, and the
heterogeneous crowd before you are the idle, the vicious, and the
miserable,—the very vermin, in short, of our civilization. Poor wretches!
let us not grudge them the limited portion of the Green where they
invariably herd,—let us not take from misery its few hours of sunshine. If
a Burns could be "wae to think upon yon den," when musing on the author of
evil and his fearful doom, surely we may spare a little of our sympathy
for the poor erring outcasts of, our own race. Their dens, in the bowels
of the town, are the veriest hells upon earth. Sin and misery are truly
synonymous terms, and bitter, indeed, is the wierd which the idle, the
dissolute, and the dishonest even in this life must dree. We know not
where a lesson of honesty and industry could be more effectually learned
than amidst the haunts of indolence and crime.
Leaving this somewhat unsightly portion of the Green
behind (and fortunately it is of limited extent), a walk of a few hundred
yards by the margin of the Clyde brings us to the obelisk erected by the
citizens to the memory of England’s great naval hero. This plain and
withal rather inelegant structure was raised by public subscription in
1806, while the popular enthusiasm excited by the victory of Trafalgar and
the glorious death of Nelson was still at its height. It is constructed of
freestone, and is in elevation about 144 feet. On the 5th of August, 1810,
the upper portion of this massive monument was shattered by lightning,
during a violent thunder-storm. The damage was soon repaired, but the
track of the electric fluid is still visible on the scarred sides of the
structure.
The green sloping banks in the vicinity of Nelson’s
Monument, during the summer months, are generally covered with the snowy
produce of the washing-tub, and present an appearance of great
cheerfulness and animation. Countless groups of wives, lasses, and bairns
are scattered about, in every variety of attitude, among the acres of
bleaching linen. If sermons are occasionally found in stones, good
practical homilies might certainly be drawn from the varied contents of
the crowded bleaching-green. The character and condition of countless
families may be read with unerring certainty in their display of textile
hieroglyphics. The tidy housewife and the dirty drab are here
distinguishable at a glance. Every little cluster tells its own tale. Here
we have plenty, cleanliness, and comfort; there poverty, filth, and
misery. This neatly patched but spotless shirt tells of thrift combined
with indigence; that dingy and tattered sheet, of untidiness allied to
waste. Here we have honest poverty striving to keep up appearances; there
wretchedness and want, careless of character or name. That smart handed
and strapping maiden may well glance with pride at the dazzling result of
her morning’s toil; while this languid slattern, in "the garish eye of
day," exhibits, perhaps unconsciously, her short comings and her shame.
Bachelors of the operative class, in their benedictive researches, should
really pay occasional visits to the bleaching-green. The character of a
sweetheart, we can assure them, may be learned more effectually there than
either at kirk or market.
Passing Arn’s Well, which is famed for the quality of
its water, and which received its name from a group of alder (Seduce,
"arn") trees, which formerly graced the spot, we arrive at the Humane
Society House. A numerous fleet of gigs and jolly-boats are either moored
or moving about on the breast of the Clyde at this spot. Of late years
numerous public works have sprung up on the south side of the stream here;
and as many hundreds of the operatives engaged in them reside in Calton
and Bridgeton, it has been found advisable to erect an elegant suspension
bridge at the spot, for the convenience of foot-passengers. Previously to
the erection of this structure, the only means of transit was by
ferry-boats, which in times of spate, and indeed at all seasons, were
anything but convenient or safe. It is principally to the exertions of
ex-bailie Harvey that the public are indebted for the superior
accommodation afforded by the handsome bridge which now spans the Clyde at
this place, and which also lends such a fine additional feature to the
neighbouring landscape. He it was who first broached the idea at the
Council Board, and who subsequently got the Bill authorizing its erection
carried through Parliament. The structure was completed and thrown open to
the public in the autumn of 1855. A moderate pontage is charged from
passengers; and it is satisfactory to add, that even as a mercantile
speculation it is likely to prove a decided benefit to the Corporation.
All honour then, say we, to Mr. Haney; and may his name, as has been
proposed, be associated with the graceful and most useful structure which
we unquestionably owe to his public-spirited exertions. The bank
immediately above and below the Humane Society House, which is peculiarly
rich in springs, has been greatly improved of late under the
superintendence of the Green Committee. An artificial embankment has been
formed and covered with turf; while walks have been tastefully laid off;
and, as in the case at several other places, a clump of trees and
shrubbery has been planted, and an enclosure formed for its protection.
These gentlemen certainly deserve the gratitude of their fellow-citizens
for their ceaseless efforts to improve and beautify the Green. We are
doubtful, however, as to the degree of success which may attend their
sylvan experiments. While the fine rugged old elms and stately beeches are
yearly perishing in scores under the baneful influences of smoke, how can
we expect that tender young plants in such a situation will thrive? Never,
we verily believe, were trees so shockingly maltreated—so stifled with
carbonic exhalations—so, begrimed with soot— as those in that unfortunate
middle compartment. Our ever-extending manufactures threaten indeed their
speedy extinction. The westling winds bring suffocation to them from the
Nursery mills, the Orient blasts come laden with death from the Bridgeton
factories; while the stormy north sweeps down on their devoted heads with
the congregated vapours of the city’s ten thousand chimneys. "Of a’ the
airts the wind can blaw," these really ill-fated trees have only reason to
love the south. It alone has the slightest compassion upon them; while its
visitations in our climate are unfortunately as rare almost as those of
Tom Campbell’s angels. No wonder they have a doleful, black, and
melancholy look; no wonder they are dying off year by year, and
threatening soon to leave our once well-wooded park a dreary untimbered
waste. It was a part of Wordsworth’s poetical creed that plants have a
sort of sentient existence, and that they really enjoy the sunshine and
the shower. We confess, in a certain degree, to a similar belief and
consider it almost a species of cruelty to plant these poor juvenile
forestlings where their stern old seniors are unable to keep their
position. Let us first do our spiriting with the vomitories of smoke. Let
Jukes, or some other enemy of the atmosphere-defiling demon, wrest their
dusky plumes, their leaf-destroying vapours, from the tall chimneys, and
then let us dibble in our saplings at every spare nook. Until the
"nuisance" is at least in some measure abated, we are persuaded that tree
culture in the Green will prove to be labour in vain.
It is a fact not generally known, that it was in
Glasgow Green, near the site of the Humane Society House, that the idea of
his great improvement on the steam-engine first flashed upon the mind of
the immortal James Watt. The great engineer was at that period
philosophical instrument maker to the University. In this capacity a small
working model of Newcomen’s atmospheric engine was sent to him for repair
by Professor Anderson. While the machine was still in his possession for
this purpose he went out alone, on a Sunday afternoon, to take his
customary walk on the Green. His mind was naturally enough directed to the
contemplation of the principles upon which the engine which he had been
repairing was constructed, and just as he was passing Arn’s Well, the
happy thought struck him, that by condensing the steam in a separate
vessel, instead of in the cylinder, as it had hitherto been done, an
immense saving of fuel might be effected. Had Watt been an ancient Greek
he would probably, on such an occasion, have rushed across the Green,
shouting "Eureka! Eureka!" but canny Scot as he was, and probably in
wholesome dread of the Kirk-Session, he pursued his leisurely thoughtful
walk, and (according to his own account of the matter, as related to a
highly respectable gentleman of this city, who is still amongst us) had
fully mastered the details of his grand discovery before returning home.
Immediately thereafter, in concert with his apprentice, Mr. John Gardner,
who was subsequently for many years a mathematical instrument maker in
this city, he constructed a model of the steam engine according to his new
and improved method. This wrought admirably. The first experiment on a
large scale took place at a coal mine near the Carron Ironworks, when his
expectations were fully justified, and he was induced to take out a patent
for "saving steam and fuel in fire-engines." Such was the origin of that
mighty power which has since done so much for the advancement of modem
civilization. Of the authenticity of the preceding statement there can be
no doubt, as we have it directly from the gentleman to whom
Watt himself communicated the circumstance. May
we not be proud of such an association in connection with our beautiful
Green?
We have hinted that Watt may have had the fear of the
Kirk-Session before his eyes during his memorable Sunday ramble. Nor in
those days would the fear have been altogether groundless. A remnant of
the old Puritan spirit still actuated our local authorities, and
Sunday-walking, especially during the hours of Divine service, was
reckoned a punishable offence. A band of functionaries, termed
"Compurgators," were employed to perambulate the streets and public walks
during "kirk hours" on Sundays, in order to compel "stravaigers" either to
go to church, or to betake themselves to their homes. Those who refused
compliance were at once taken into custody. This system continued in force
to a period subsequent to the middle of the last century, when Mr. Peter
Blackburn (grandfather of Mr. Blackburn of Killearn) was placed in durance
vile for walking in the Green on Sunday! This public-spirited gentleman
immediately raised an action against the authorities for such an
unwarrantable interference with the liberty of the subject. The case was
finally decided in his favour in the Court of Session, and the system of
course speedily fell into desuetude.
The "Round Seat" is a favourite resting-place with the
loungers of the Green. The Clyde here takes an abrupt bend at Peat-Bog
point, and sweeps in a fine semi-circular curve round the low-lying
Fleshers’ Haugh. It was on this spacious tree-dotted haugh or holm that
Prince Charles Edward, the "young Chevalier" of
Scottish song, reviewed his troops on the occasion of his unwelcome visit
to Glasgow, in the winter of 1745-6. Among the Whigs of Glasgow the
Chevalier had few friends. Accordingly, when returning from England he
arrived at our city on his way to the Highlands, he determined to make the
most of the wealthy enemy. The Highlanders, after their lengthened and
bootless campaign, were in a most necessitous condition. Their tartans
were nearly worn out, while many of them were without brogues, bonnets, or
shirts. On their way to the city every individual they met was speedily
divested of shoes and other articles of dress. Notwithstanding such
wind-falls, they presented a most miserable appearance. But Glasgow "saw
another sight" (and paid for it too) before their departure. Charles,
without ceremony, at once took up his residence at the best house in the
city, and adopted the necessary measures for refitting his army. The
Magistrates were compelled to officiate as clothiers, to the tune of
12,000 shirts, 6,000 cloth coats, 6,000 pairs of shoes, 6,000 pairs of
stockings, 6,000 waistcoats, and an equal number of bonnets. "My
conscience!" what would Bailie Nicol Jarvie say to such an act of
extortion? Whatever the honest Ballie may have said, the described
articles had to be produced, and it was in the pride of these borrowed
plumes that the review we have mentioned was held. "We marched out (says
one of Charlie’s English followers, in a manuscript journal) with drums
beating, colours flying, bagpipes playing, and all the marks of a
triumphant army, to the appointed ground, attended by multitudes of people
who had come from all parts to see us, and especially the ladies, who,
though formerly much against us, were now changed by the sight of the
Prince into the most enthusiastic loyalty." During the review Charles
stood under a thorn-tree, on the declivity which forms the north-western
boundary of the Fleshers’ Haugh, about 100 yards east of the "round seat."
One of the citizens, then a boy, many years afterwards said, "I managed to
get so near him that I could have touched him with my hand, and the
impression which he made upon my mind shall never fade as long as I live.
He had a princely aspect, and its interest was much heightened by the
dejection which appeared in his pale fair countenance and downcast eye. He
evidently wanted confidence in his cause, and seemed to have a melancholy
foreboding of that disaster which soon after mined the hopes of his family
for ever."
The Chevalier and his devoted Highlanders passed away.
Their after fate, as every one knows, forms one of the darkest themes in
Scottish story. In the contemplation of their subsequent misfortunes,
their faults and failings are forgotten; and now that the unfortunate
Chevalier’s name and memory have become "such stuff as dreams are made
of," every heart thrills in sympathy with the pathetic lyrical expression
of our townsman Glen,—
"Oh waes me for Prince Charlie!"
The old thorn, "Prince Charlie’s Tree," as it was
called, continued to be pointed out until recently, when somehow or other
it disappeared. Latterly it had a blasted and decaying appearance, and was
protected by a wooden railing. We have heard it rumoured, whether truly or
not we cannot say, that this venerable and interesting relic was destroyed
some four or five years ago by a band of mischievous scoundrels during a
Queen’s birth-day riot. We should not be surprised to learn, however, that
some sacrilegious antiquary has the old stump snugly deposited among his
"auld nick-nackets." As unlikely things have happened ere now among the
disciples of Grose. if our friend Mr. Moir will forgive our apparent
inconsistency, we would entreat him, when next he takes the planter’s
spade in hand, to let us have a successor to the "Chevalier’s thorn." Such
a spot should certainly not be permitted to remain unmarked.
Great alterations have been effected on the Fleshers’
Haugh within the memory of persons still living. We remember, in our own
boyish days, a fine spring, called the "Ladle Well," on the northern
declivity, with a considerable ditch or marsh in its vicinity. The well
and marsh, however, have long disappeared, the water of both being now
conveyed away by a covered drain, while the grass waves green on terra
firma where the lasses of Brigtown came to fill their cans, and
adventurous urchins, miscalculating their leaping powers—as we from sad
experience can testify— were often plunged to the waist in mud. Few of our
readers will be prepared to learn that within the past sixty years there
was a printfield on the Flesher’s Haugh. Such, however, was the case; and
we have conversed with a respectable old man who served his apprenticeship
in the establishment, which was somewhere about the locality of Dominie’s
Hole. At that period there was a cart-road across what is now called
King’s Park.
Proceeding towards the cast, along the brow of the
Fleshers’ Haugh, the most picturesque portion of the Green comes gradually
Into view. Fine belts and clumps of trees, among which are numerous
handsome specimens of the elm, the beech, the saugh, and the ash,
diversify and adorn the scene. The foliage here assumes a freshness and
beauty not unworthy of a more rural locality. The various shades of green
which characterize the woodlands of early summer are now seen in
perfection, and produce an extremely pleasing effect; while the
wide-spreading lawns and gently sloping banks are spangled with the daisy,
the dandelion, and the buttercup. Some of our readers may smile when we
mention the botany of Glasgow Green; but we can assure them that, in spite
of the ceaseless trampling to which it is subjected, a considerable
variety of wild plants may be found by the attentive observer within its
precincts. An acquaintance of ours in one season collected not less than
sixty species within its boundaries, and we believe that the real number
is considerably beyond what he obtained. Among the plants indigenous to
the Green, we may mention the shamrock, which the Irish Catholics of our
city gather on Saint Patrick’s Day; and the mystic yarrow, which the girls
of Bridgeton and Calton in hundreds come forth to pluck as a love-charm,
between the gloamin’ and the mirk of May eve. On the evening of the 30th
April the Green is generally crowded with groups of yarrow seekers. For
the benefit of our fair readers, some of whom may wish to test the virtues
of the yarrow on future May eves, we may mention the modus operandi,
as we had it from a bouncing Dublin girl who was out on a recent
occasion. On coming to a spot where the desired plant is growing, the
maiden kneels, and while gathering a sprig of the dewy foliage, repeats
the following rhyme:-
"Yarrow, yarrow, here I seek thee,
Here I have thee found;
In the name of my true love
I pluck thee from the ground.
As Joseph dreamed of Mary,
And took her for his bride,
So in a dream I wish to see
My true love by my side."
The yarrow thus taken is placed under the pillow of the
maiden as she retires to sleep, when, according to the freit, the
shadowy form of the future husband is sure to make its appearance during
the slumbers of the night. This rather poetical superstition is diffused
over the rural districts of the Three Kingdoms but it is certainly curious
to find it lingering in such a matter-of-fact community as ours.
The student of mankind will find much to engage his
attention and excite his interest in a stroll round the Green. In the
hurry and bustle of the town men lose their individuality. Face succeeds
face with such rapidity that one has not time to speculate on the "strang
matters" with which they are one and all legibly marked. It is different
here, where you have leisure to decipher, as it were, the lines which time
and care have traced on the human face divine. Here you have the
octogenarian, garrulous of other days, willing to unfold for your
gratification, as you rest on the bench by his side, the experiences of a
lengthened pilgrimage; there the ancient soldier, who will "never, never
march again," yet who is eager for a good listener to whom he may fight
his battles o’er again. That pale-faced youth, muffled to the chin, and
shivering in the very smile of summer, needs not to give audible utterance
to his sad story. Long, lingering, and painful disease is plainly written
on his wofully shrunken face and drooping form, while the shadow of an
early death even now hangs darkly over him. Poor fellow! what a depth of
meaning is in his bright blue eyes, as he lingers to gaze upon the
flower-gathering children! Yet is his fate almost enviable when compared
with that of yonder wan-faced and scantily clad weaver, who, with downcast
eyes, and hands hung listlessly behind him, moves slowly, as if he were
counting his steps athwart the sward. "Tis want that makes his
cheeks so pale;" and it requires no wizard to tell that a wife and
numerous little ones are dependent upon his exertions for bread, while
there is no web in the loom. Alas! for the unwilling idler. This
lackadaisical spark, with shirt-collar a La Byron, and arms akimbo, now
moving with rapid stride and anon in rapt pause, pulling forth his
richly-gilt memorandum-book, and hurriedly penciling its pages, can belong
but to one tribe. Air, gesture, gait, at once proclaim the aspirant to
poetic honours. We could not be more sure of the fact, indeed, although we
met him in the poet’s corner of a newspaper. Perverse fortune may have
doomed him to the counter, but it is quite evident that in his own
estimation he has a destiny infinitely above yard-sticks.
But we must move on. From the bank which overlooks the
Clyde, at the south-eastern extremity of the Green, a prospect of great
extent and beauty is obtained. To the left, over Rutherglen Bridge, in the
distance, is seen the elegant spire of Cambuslang, with the towering
heights of Dychmont. In front, half hidden amidst trees and gentle
undulations, Shawfield and Rutherglen are seen, while the finely-wooded
braes of Cathkin swell pleasantly to the horizon, and the mansions of
Blairbeth and Castlemilk enliven the middle-distance, which is also
studded with villas and cottages innumerable. To the right are Little
Govan, Camphill, and Langside—the latter the scene of the unfortunate
Mary’s final overthrow. Indeed, the movements preliminary to that decisive
engagement may be better comprehended when they are described with
relation to our present position, than if we were even standing on the
field where the battle occurred. Here we see at a glance the ground
traversed by the hostile armies, and the system on which the movements
were conducted which terminated in the conflict at Langside. Marching from
Hamilton with the intention of proceeding to Dumbarton by the north-east
side of Glasgow, the Queen’s troops were confronted at Dalmarnock ford by
the army of the Regent Murray, which was drawn up in order of battle in
the vicinity of Barrowfield. Desirous of avoiding the impending
engagement, Mary’s adherents altered their route, and, passing by
Rutherglen and Hangingshaw, endeavoured to accomplish their purpose of
reaching Dumbarton by a forced march to the south-west of the city. Their
course, however, was necessarily a circuitous one, and Murray having
become aware of the alteration in their plans, at once pushed across the
Green, forded the Clyde, and as we can here see, from the relative
position of the places we have mentioned, was, without difficulty, able to
intercept them in their progress. Thus out-manoeuvred, Mary’s generals saw
there was nothing for it but either to risk an engagement or make an
inglorious retreat to Hamilton. The former alternative was adopted, and
the result, as every one knows, was their total defeat and dispersion.
But to return to the Green itself. At the foot of the
bank on which we are standing, and within a few yards of each other, are
two fine cool crystalline springs, which, although so near each other,
possess very opposite qualities. The one, locally denominated "Robin’s
Well," is famous for bleaching purposes and for the dilution of "gude
Scots’ drink;" while the other, being moderately impregnated with a
solution of ferruginous matter, is strictly avoided alike by the
washerwoman and the connoisseur of punch. A few yards farther down the
stream, beneath a group of stately trees, are the Springboards, and
Dominie’s Hole (so called from a dominie or teacher having been drowned
there), the usual bathing-places of the amphibious east-end citizens,
when, to use the words of Wilson, the quaint old author of
‘ The Clyde,"—
"The summer’s beat drives frequent to the pool
The active youth, their glowing limbs to cool;
They dive, and distant far emerge again,
Or easy float along the liquid plain,
While curling waves around their ‘bodies twine,
Through which their limbs like polished marble shine;
Now with strong arms they strive against the tide,
Now oaring swiftly, with the current glide."
Many hundreds of people, indeed, bathe here daily
during the sultry months, and, in spite of every precaution, few seasons,
unfortunately, pass in which several lives are not lost at this part of
the river. Life-buoys are suspended on the bank, that assistance in
emergencies may be at once rendered. Boards have also been erected by the
authorities at conspicuous points, on which, for the benefit of intending
bathers, the depth of the river at various places is legibly inscribed.
Pursuing our walk, which now tends city-ward, by
"Allan’s Pen" and the fine belt of plantation which borders the south-east
side of the Green, we are struck at every step by the improvements which
have recently been effected. New walks, to the extent of several miles,
have been formed within the past year or two, wherever, by the "old brown
lines" of footpath, the public had manifested a desire to pass. The sward,
at the same time, has been protected at the more exposed points by
enclosures of wooden railing, and the result is, that never, within the
memory of the "oldest inhabitant," has there been such an unbroken expanse
of verdure on the Green as during the present season. At the same time
there has been "ample scope and verge enough" left for all kinds of
recreative amusements. Cricket, rounders and football, the sports most
popular here, are now practised as extensively as at any former period. On
Saturday afternoons, when the mills and public works are stopped, King’s
Park presents a most cheerful and animating spectacle, with its numerous
groups of youthful operatives, after the toils of the week, all earnestly
engaged in these healthful and exciting games. In former times the Celtic
"shinty" was a favourite pastime during the winter months with the
juvenility of our city. Of late years it seems to have fallen almost into
desuetude. The same may be said of golf, which we remember in our boyhood
seeing frequently practised by elderly gentlemen on the Green. There
seems, indeed, to be a fashion in recreation as in things of greater
moment. Shinty and golf, however, are both exceedingly injurious to the
turf, and, considering the amenities of the Green, it is probable that the
fastidious may rejoice in their discontinuance.
Previously to the general flitting of the merchant
princes of Glasgow "towards the setting sun," the Green was the favourite
haunt of the wealth and fashion of the city. It was here the pride and
beauty of the aristocratic Charlotte Street and St. Andrew’s Square loved
most to congregate, "when summer days were fine." These time-honoured
elms, so gaunt and woe-begone, could they speak, might tell of days when
the proud Virginian merchant, with his long scarlet cloak and bushy wig,
passed haughtily beneath their shade, and the gaucy bailie with his long
queue,
"That down his back did flow,"
went "shug shuggin" past in all the pomposity of civic
importance. The readers of Rob Roy will remember Frank
Osbaldistone’s Sunday evening walk in the Green, previous to his midnight
meeting with the bold outlaw. This very elm, for aught we know, may have
been the identical one behind which the lover of Diana Vernon ensconced
himself when he heard, through the darkness, the voice of Andrew
Fairservice. Be that as it may, the more fashionable classes of Glasgow
have long ceased habitually to frequent the purlieus of the Green; and it
is only when the attraction of a review, a regatta, or some extraordinary
spectacle occurs, that it is revisited by glimpses of its former glory.
During the wars of Napoleon, when our shores were
threatened with foreign invasion, numerous bands of volunteers, in daily
exercise upon the Green, manifested the loyalty and patriotism of Glasgow.
It was on the same field that the sympathies of our citizens in the cause
of political reform were, from time to time, expressed in multitudinous
assemblage. No one who witnessed the monster meetings of the Reform epoch,
when the population of our city, in the strength of a united purpose, came
forth in their thousands to demand their political rights, can ever forget
the grandeur and impressiveness of the spectacle. To the achievement of
the great moral victory of 1832 (for in its fruits, which are not yet all
reaped, it has indeed been great), the magnificent meetings of Glasgow
Green must have contributed in no limited degree. Peace has her victories
as well as war, and the battle-field where corruption has been overcome,
although all undewed with the red rain, should ever be regarded as
hallowed ground. All honour then to our noble Green; and should
"Malice domestic or foreign levy"
ever again call for similar exertions, may our
citizens, as in days of yore, be prepared to answer the call of duty, and
may they long preserve intact these spacious grounds as a fair field for
the manifestation of their loyalty and patriotism.
Passing the Washing-house, and in front of Monteith
Row—a handsome range of edifices, but erected on a clipping from the Green
and within the "stately wall" mentioned by old M’Ure.....we make our exit
at the London Street "winnles," and soon find ourselves in "the heart
o’ the town." |