COMMUNITIES, like individuals, are
supposed to have their peculiar idiosyncrasies; and those who are familiar
with the popular rhymes and common sayings of Scotland, must be aware that
a considerable portion of these "old saws" are devoted to a description of
the characteristics, real or imaginary, of the inhabitants of our various
towns and villages. For instance, we say the people of Glasgow, the
folk of Greenock, and the bodies of Paisley. The Merse,
according to the same authority, is famous for its stalwart men; Dunkeld
for its votaries of the wee drap; and Edinburgh for its loopy lawyers;
while auld Ayr, as every believer of Burns must admit, is unsurpassed
"For honest men and bonnie lasses."
There is one town, however,
which is said, par excellence, to be productive of "queer folk."
This town, as everybody in the West of Scotland well knows, is Pollokshaws,
or "the Shaws," as in common parlance it is generally called. How this
saying originated we cannot for the life of us surmise, but it has long
been quite proverbial—a very household word, in fact; and just on the same
principle that we glowered in search of bonnie lasses on our first visit
to Ayr, did we keep a sharp look-out for outré specimens of
humanity when we first passed through Pollokshaws. [Note: Lorna
McGougan emailed us to say..."The writer says he did not know where the
'queer folk' saying originated. The 'queer folk' were the Flemish people
who came to live in Pollokshaws. They were called queer because no one
could understand them. It was not the original Pollokshaws people who
were 'queer' it was the 'queer folk' that came into Pollokshaws to live."] Disappointment, we need
hardly remark, in both cases attended our inspection. The fair maids of
Ayr, with all due deference to Burns, who, by-the-by, was said to be no
great authority on the subject of female loveliness, we found to be "just
like ither folk;" while the special queerness of the Pollokshaws people
did not strike us as being particularly obvious. There are doubtless
bonnie lasses in the one town and queer folk in the
other, just as there are everywhere else; but we rather suspect
there is in neither case more than the due proportion. "Old saws and modem
instances," it would therefore seem, do not in all cases quite accord with
each other.
Crossing the Clyde by the elegant and spacious
Broomielaw bridge, and passing along Bridge Street, Eglinton Street, and
past the front of the Cavalry Barracks, now deserted by its gay cavaliers,
[Since this was written the establishment has been converted into the
Poorhouse of the Govan Parish.] we soon arrive outside the boundaries of
the city. A walk of a mile or so farther - during which we pass on the
right, Muirhouses, a row of one-storeyed and thatched edifices, and at a
short distance to the left, the hamlet of Butterbiggins - brings us to a
little village which rejoices in the somewhat unmusical appellation of
Strathbungo. There is nothing particularly attractive or worthy of
attention about this tiny little congregation of houses. With the
exception of the church, a small and neat but plain specimen of
ecclesiastical architecture, the houses are for the most part humble one
or two-storeyed buildings, inhabited principally by weavers, miners, and
other descriptions of operatives. There are, of course, several
public-houses in the village and those who have an eye to the fine arts,
as manifested on sign-boards, will be amused, if not delighted, with a
unique head of Bums, which is suspended over the entrance to one of them,
with a barefaced quotation in praise of whisky attached to it by way of
pendant. There is no mistaking the double-breasted waistcoat of the poet;
it at once stamps the man. The management of this portion of the drapery
is indeed a master-stroke of the artist, as otherwise it might have been
somewhat difficult to recognize in the goggle eyes, flabby cheeks, and
ridiculously mim mouth, the features of the burly ploughman. Painters
now-a-days, and the failing is not by any means confined to those of the
Dick-Tinto school, have got such a habit of idealizing their portraits,
that it has really become perfectly impossible to recognize even one’s
most intimate friends on canvas. The flattery that the honest mirror fails
to give may be purchased at any time from the venal palette. Since the
advent of Gall and Spurzheim, foreheads under the hands of the limners
have gradually been expanding in their proportions, like the head-dresses
of the ladies in the reign of good Queen Anne. Tomkins is represented with
the "front of Jove;" while the jolly countenance of Snooks, to please his
sentimental better-half, is "toned down," as the phrase is, to the "pale
cast of thought," until he resembles more the half-starved Hamlet of a
strolling company than his own plump and good-natured self. Whatever
faults, however, the sign-board portrait above mentioned may have—and it
must be admitted, we are afraid, that it is not quite a perfect work of
art—no one can at least accuse the artist of the slightest tendency to the
"reigning vice" of his profession. Want of will or want of power has given
him the solitary merit of being an absolute stranger to flattery. Strange
as it may seem, Strathbungo has also its poet. In Blackie’s Book of
Scottish Song there is an effusion, not devoid of merit either,
addressed to a certain bonnie Jean who flourished in this uncouth-named
locality. Lest there should be any doubt on the matter, however, we shall
take the liberty of giving a sample of the production:—
"The Glasgow lasses gang fu’ braw,
And country girls gang neat and clean,
But nane o' them's a match ava
To my sweet maid, Strathbungo Jean.
"Tho’ they be dressed in rich attire,
In silk brocade and mons de-laine,
Wi’ busk and pad and satin stays,
They’ll never ding Strathbungo Jean."
After this, who shall say what the lyrical muse may not
do for Ecclefechan or Tillicoultry!
Leaving Strathbungo, a pleasant walk of about
half-a-mile brings us to another village not less ridiculously provided
with a name. This is Crossmyloof, a finely situated little hamlet,
composed principally of plain and unpretending houses, ranged on both
sides of the highway, and occupied chiefly by families of the operative
class. A considerable number of the humble edifices, however, have
garden-plots attached to them for the cultivation of kitchen vegetables;
and it is well known that both here and at Strathbungo many of the
handloom weavers are celebrated growers of tulips, pansies, dahlias, and
other floricultural favourites. Florist clubs, also, exist among them,
which meet regularly for the examination of choice flowers, and for
discussing the best means of rearing them to perfection. We have had the
pleasure, at various periods, of conversing with several of these bloom
worshippers—for such, in truth, they are—and we must admit that we were
fairly astounded at the multifarious charms which they could discover and
point out in what seemed to our obtuse visual organs a simple tulip or
pansy. We could not help, indeed, comparing ourselves, when in their
company, to Wordsworth’s "Peter Bell," of whom it was said,—
A primrose by the river’s brim
A yellow primrose was to him,
And it was nothing more.
What a different affair was a primrose or a pansy to
our Crossmyloof friends! It was indeed "a great deal more" than it seemed
to the uninitiated. There are some sharp-sighted people who are said to
see farther into a millstone than their neighbours. For the truth of the
saying we shall not venture to vouch; but most assuredly, for seeing into
the mysteries of a tulip or a dahlia, we shall back a Crossmyloof or
Strabungo weaver against the united amateurs of Scotland.
After all, however, there is something very creditable
to such individuals in their enthusiastic love of flowers. We know not,
indeed, how a working man could spend his leisure hours more harmlessly or
pleasantly, than in the cultivation of a little flower-plot. In towns such
a privilege is beyond the reach of the operative; but in suburban
situations and rural villages, it is exceedingly gratifying to witness the
manifestations of such a taste.
The singular name of "Crossmyloof" is accounted for by
a popular myth which is yet current in the surrounding country. It is said
that, immediately before the battle of Langside, the forees of Queen Mary
were drawn up on the site of the village. A council of war was meanwhile
held, at which it was debated whether they should, under the circumstances
in which they were placed, risk a collision with the troops of the Regent.
The Queen, always impetuous, was urgent that an attack should at once be
made. From this resolution several of her adherents attempted to dissuade
her, representing to her the advantages likely to result from delay. Tired
at last of their importunities, and eager to decide her fate, the Queen
pulled an ebony crucifix from her breast, and laid it on her snowy palm,
saying, at the same time, "As surely as that cross lies on my loof, I will
this day fight the Regent." From this circumstance, it is said, the spot
received its name. It is rather unfortunate for the credibility of the
legend, however, that Queen Mary’s troops were routed at a considerable
distance to the eastward of this locality, having been effectually
intercepted by their opponents at the village of Langside, while they were
advancing in this direction. Tradition in this, as in other instances that
might be mentioned, has taken sad liberties with geography. The story is a
pretty one, nevertheless, and will continue, we dare say, to obtain
credence at the winter evening hearth, in spite of the sneers of the
prying student of history.
A little to the north-east of Crossmyloof, on a green
hill, within the enclosures of Neale Thomson, Esq. of Camphill, are the
vestiges of an ancient British camp. Passing through the fine grounds of
Mr. Thomson, which are kept in the most elegant and tasteful order, we now
proceed to inspect this interesting relic of other days. It occupies the
entire crown of the eminence, and is upwards of a hundred yards in
diameter. The valium, or wall, although nearly obliterated in some places,
is yet in a sufficient state of preservation to show the extent and form
which it originally presented. At one extremity there is an elevated
platform, or dais, which is supposed to have been the situation occupied
by the tent of the commander, or chief of the party, who, in a long
vanished century, held possession of this commanding height. From this
spot a delightful and wide-spreading prospect of the surrounding country
is obtained. Towards the north and east is the vast strath of Clyde,
bounded on the right by the sylvan heights of Cathkin and the verdant
slopes of Dychmont, and on the left by the picturesque Campsie and
Kilpatrick ranges; while stretching far away in front is a lengthened
series of fertile fields and gentle undulations, studded with towns,
villages, mansions; and farm-steadings, and bounded in the extreme
distance by the misty Pentlands. In other directions the views are almost
equally extensive and fair; including, within their scope, Neilston Pad,
Ballygeich, and the song-hallowed "braes o’ Gleniffer." The interior of
the camp is thickly planted with trees, the foliage of which forms a
delicious shade in the glowing summer or autumnal noon, when, in the words
of Tennyson, all around is seen
"The landscape winking through the heat"
After lingering in the leafy shadows of the lonely camp
for a brief space, gazing on its sights of beauty, and dreaming of the
warriors fierce and rude who, in the olden time, peopled its precincts, we
descend from our elevation, -and passing the spacious and handsome mansion
of Mr. Thomson, make our exit from the grounds.
It is said that there is but a short distance between
the sublime and the ridiculous. There is certainly but a step from the
sentimental to the commonplace, as we cannot resist muttering to
ourselves, when a few minutes after leaving the camp and musing on its
bygone glories, we find ourselves in the immense Bakery of Crossmyloof,
inspecting with interest the manufacture of quartern loaves. This
extensive establishment, perhaps the largest of the kind in the queen’s
dominions, is the property of Mr. Thom. son of Camphill, by whom it was
erected in 1847, for the purpose of supplying the city of Glasgow with
bread similar in quality to that used in London. Commencing operations on
a small scale, the increasing demand has gradually necessitated an
extension of the premises, until at the present time operations are
carried on in four large bakehouses, fitted up with every requisite
convenience for securing cleanliness and expedition. There are no less
than twenty-six ovens generally at work, attended by from forty-five to
sixty bakers, as the demand increases or diminishes. A number of other
hands also are constantly employed in subsidiary operations, such as
preparing the yeast, which is done on the premises, removing and packing
the bread, &c., while no fewer than six large vans are constantly engaged
carrying the loaves as they are prepared to the insatiate city, and
distributing them amongst the various agencies. Some idea may be formed of
the extent of this monster baking manufactory when we mention, that it
requires not less than five hundred sacks of flour on the average weekly,
out of which it turns from 40,000 to 43,000 quartern loaves. Mr. Dalgetty,
the active and intelligent manager, obligingly conducted us over the
establishment, explaining the various processes through which the flour
must pass on its final transformation into the wholesome "staff of life."
Cleanliness, order, and neatness, pervade every department; and we must
admit that we have seldom seen a more curious or cheerful sight than we
witnessed in one of these lengthened and spacious bakehouses, where thirty
well-powdered operatives are busily engaged thumping pelting, turning,
cutting, weighing, and kneading immense masses of plastic dough, which, in
their experienced hands, rapidly assumes the requisite form and
consistency.
Taking leave of our friend, Mr. Dalgetty, we now leave
Crossmyloof, and wend our way towards Pollokshaws, which is situated about
a mile to the southward. At this point the road
diverges, one branch leading to Kilmarnock, by Mearns; the other to
Barrhead and Neilston, by Pollokshaws. The country in the vicinity is
beautiful in the extreme, and within the last few years a large number of
fine villas have been erected in the neighbourhood. The majority of these
have gardens and elegant flower-plots attached to them, and altogether the
locality has a highly pleasing and attractive appearance. The walk from
Crossmyloof to Pollokshaws is of the most pleasant description. On either
hand are wide-spreading and fertile fields, relieved at intervals with
patches and belts of planting, farm-houses, and gentlemen’s seats. About
half the distance it is up hill, but afterwards it gradually declines
towards the hollow in which, on the banks of the Cart, here a considerable
stream, the town is situated.
Pollokshaws is a tidy and thriving little town,
somewhat irregular in appearance, and containing a population of about
5,000 individuals. An air of bustle and life about its streets, furnishes
a perfect contrast to the dullness and languor which generally prevail in
towns of similar extent in the rural districts. There are a number of
extensive establishments for spinning, weaving, and dyeing, within its
precincts, which furnish employment for the greater portion of its
inhabitants, the residue being principally handloom weavers, miners, and
agricultural labourers. Calico-pitting was also at one period carried on
here to a considerable extent; but of late years, we understand, this
department of trade has been, in a great measure, if not altogether
discontinued. The inhabitants have the usual characteristics of a
manufacturing population. There is the common preponderance of pale faces
and emaciated forms, accompanied with that sharpness of intellect which
manifests itself in diversity of religious and political opinion. Every
shade of political principle, indeed, finds here its own little knot of
adherents; while the fact that there are not fewer then nine separate
places of worship, great and small, sufficiently indicates the variety of
points from which the great question is contemplated. The precise number
of schools which are in the town we have not learned, but we understand
that this important department of social improvement has not been by any
means neglected; while an extensive public library furnishes the necessary
intellectual pabulum for the studious portion of the adult population.
The town was erected into a burgh of barony by a
charter from the Crown in 1814, the civic affairs of the community being
managed by a provost, bailie, and six councillors, with a town-clerk and
fiscal. The magistrates and council are elected by popular suffrage, every
householder paying a certain amount of rent possessing the privilege of
voting.
Many of our readers will be interested, we doubt not,
to learn that a natural daughter of the Ayrshire bard has been for many
years resident in Pollokshaws. This individual is Mrs. Thomson (Elizabeth
Burns), the wife of a decent and intelligent handloom weaver of the town.
In features and complexion Mrs. Thomson admittedly bears a more striking
resemblance to her father than any of his other children. We have had the
pleasure of meeting with two of the poet’s sons, on both of whom the
paternal stamp was obvious; but we were more forcibly reminded of the
family lineaments as represented in the best portraits, on being
introduced to Mrs. Thomson, than we were on that occasion. She is now
pretty well advanced in years, being rather over sixty; her features are
consequently somewhat shrunk from their original proportions, but still
the likeness is sufficiently marked to indicate, at a glance, her
relationship to the departed bard.
The mother of Mrs. Thomson was Anne Hyslop, of the
Globe Tavern at Dumfries. She was the heroine of the beautiful song,
"Yestreen I had a pint o’ wine
In place where body saw na.
Yestreen lay on this breast o’ mine
The raven locks of Anna."
Mrs. Thomson never knew her mother; but she fortunately
found a kind and affectionate substitute in Mrs. Burns. After remaining
for two or three years at nurse in Edinburgh, she was taken to her
father’s home in Dumfries, where she was brought up along with his other
children. She has some faint recollections of her father, who was wont
occasionally to take her on his knee and fondle her affectionately; and
she remembers vividly the imposing ceremonials attendant on his death and
funeral. After the poet’s decease she continued to live with Mrs. Bums, of
whom she still speaks under the endearing appellation of mother, until her
marriage with Mr. Thomson, who was then as a soldier located with his
corps in Dumfries. The wedding was celebrated in the house and under the,
auspices of the bard’s kind-hearted widow, who afterwards, even until the
year of her death, continued occasionally to manifest her regard for Mrs.
Thomson by sending her small presents, accompanied by affectionate
inquiries after her welfare.
Mrs. Thomson is now the mother of a considerable family
of grown-up sons and daughters, several of whom bear an obvious
resemblance to their celebrated grandfather. Her second son, Robert Buns
Thomson, is especially the "counterfeit presentment’ of him whose name he
bears. He is, indeed, a living facsimile in physical appearance of
what Burns must have been when in the prime of manhood. A degree more
slender in person, or a shade more fair in complexion, from the nature of
his employment, he possibly may be; but this, we feel confident, is the
extent of difference. Nor is the resemblance only physical. He has in a
considerable measure the same vigorous intellect, and pithy if not rude
humour, combined with a manly sense of independence, and a taste for
poetry and music, in both of which arts he is indeed no mean proficient.
Altogether, he is admitted by all who have the privilege of his
acquaintance to be an excellent specimen of the honest, upright, and
industrious working man. We know not that, on the whole, we could bestow
upon him a more estimable character. Mr. Thomson is of course proud of his
descent, but he has not the most distant desire that his "bonnet should be
hung on his grandfather’s pin." He would be respected for his own sake, or
not at all; and we can assure those who would thrust themselves into his
company, for the mere gratification of an empty curiosity that they will
stand a pretty considerable chance of finding out what it is to be "taken
through the whins."
Although he makes no pretension to the character of a
poet, Robert Burns Thomson, as we have already hinted, has on more than
one occasion, tried his hand at poetic composition. Some of our readers,
we dare say, would like to see a sample of verse from the pen of one who
stands in the relation of grandson to our great national poet; and at the
risk of being deemed guilty of a breach of confidence, we cannot refrain
from contributing to their gratification. The only production of his at
present in our possession, although of considerable merit, is by far too
lengthy for publication in its entire form in our limited space; but we
shall venture, nevertheless, to extract a few detached stanzas from it,
begging the author’s pardon at the same time for the liberty which we are
taking. The composition, we may premise, is an elegy on an old military
musician, who is represented, after having passed unhurt through manifold
dangers by flood and field, as having been at last killed while attempting
"some thrawn bars that wadna spell." Passing over several pithy verses
invocatory of sorrow, we find the poet exclaiming,
"Ye wakerife lav’rocks, pride of Spring,
Wha speel the heav'ns on dewy wing,
While in the lift ye pendant hing
In bliss ecstatic,
Lament till mountain echoes ring
Your plaints pathetic.
And ye wha haunt the leafy spray,
Or warble in the sunny ray,
Or lull the closing ear of day
In haugh or glen,
Sound each your waest minor key
For him that’s gane."
Not altogether unworthy the "old man," we should say;
but we must take another leap over some seven or eight stanzas, and
leaving the tender, try what our author can exhibit of sterner stuff,—
"Mourn ye, wha lift the daily shillin’,
Imperial pay for brither-killin’,
For Jock, when but a hauflins callan,
Left frien’s and hame,
And ower the stormy seas gaed saillin
To fecht for fame.
"In dark Toulouse he met the Franks,
Where biting bullets thinn’d our ranks,
And worthy chiels of heads and shanks
Were rudely shorn,
There bauldly first he cheered the flanks,
Wi’ fife and horn.
"He clamb the tow’ring Pyrenees,
Where frosts ‘neath smiles of summer freeze,
And through the mirk, on hands and knees,
‘Thont star or moon,
The foemen’s tents he set ableeze,
To licht him doon.
"See halfway up Sebastian’s wa's,
Tho’ death rax doon wi’ drippin claws,
His left arm round the steps he thraws,
His right the horn
And, charge them hame! he loudly blaws
To the hope forlorn.
"Ay, mony a fearfu’ siege and storm,
In mony a clime baith cauld and warm,
Tho’ death and him’s been arm in arm
The maist o’s life.
Yet neer till now he durst him harm
Wi’ dirk or knife."
But we must refrain. Suffice it to say, that honest
John turns out, after all, to be both hale and well, and that the elegy is
fortunately only "a false alarm," We shall leave it to our readers to
decide whether the scion is altogether worthy of the noble stem from which
it sprung. We have our own opinion; but where friendship holds the balance
it may well be doubted whether strict justice is administered.
The church of Pollokshaws, or Eastwood, as the parish
is sometimes called, is situated on a rising ground at the southeastern
extremity of the town. It is a plain quadrangular edifice of somewhat
limited extent, and calls for no particular attention from the passing
stranger. The church-yard is situated about a mile to the southward, near
the site of a more ancient church, which was demolished on the erection of
the present structure. Towards this spot we now proceed, passing on our
way the fine old mansion of Auldhouse, at present the residence of Walter
Crum, Esq, of Thornliehank. It is beautifully situated on the margin of
Auldhouse burn, a little streamlet that joins the Cart at a short distance
to the northward. The building, which is of considerable extent, is, we
understand, the property of Sir John Maxwell of Pollok, in the possession
of whose family it has been for many years. It has certain architectural
features worthy the attention of the autiquary; while the handsome old
trees by which it is surrounded, and especially a couple of magnificent
and tall specimens of the Spanish chestnut in the garden, will be found
peculiarly attractive to those who delight in the study of sylvan beauty.
A brief but pleasant walk brings us to the "Auld kirk-yard," in the
vicinity of which is a cosie and comfortable looking manse. We find the
field of graves, which is protected from human intrusion by a high wall
and a well-locked gate, tenanted by a flock of sheep; which seem
particularly to enjoy the long rank herbage. They manifest considerable
wildness, moreover, and scamper about over green mound and flat stone, as
if they were anything but accustomed to receive visitors. The church-yard
of Eastwood is of moderate extent, and is shaded at certain parts of its
circumference by trees. Its only noticeable features are the burial place
of the ancient family of the Maxwells of Pollok, and an elegant monumental
structure recently erected to the memory of Wodrow the historian. The
former is a square compartment enclosed by high walls of the plainest
appearance. The place has a melancholy and rather neglected aspect. The
sexton has piled a lot of old planks and mouldering coffins against one of
the walls, and on peeping through the doorway we observe the interior to
be crowded with loathsome and overgrown weeds. Accustomed as we are to the
trim and tidy manner in which the burial-places in our city cemeteries are
generally kept, we must admit that we feel rather surprised at the want of
attention which is here evinced, and we should really have expected that
the last resting-place of an old and honourable family would have been
more carefully preserved from the ravages of time and the elements.
The Wodrow monument, which stands almost in the centre
of the burial-ground, is a structure of considerable elegance and taste,
having been executed by our townsman, Mr. John Mossman, a gentleman whose
chisel has done much for the adornment of our local cemeteries, and whose
contributions, from time to time, to our Fine Art exhibitions have been
characterized by merit of no ordinary description. On one side of the
massive quadrangular pediment, which is surmounted by a finely carved
superstructure, terminating in a sepulchral urn, is the following
inscription:—
"Erected to the memory of the REV. ROBERT WODROW,
minister of Eastwood; the faithful historian of the sufferings of the
Church of Scotland from the year 1660 to
1668. He died 21st March, 1784, In the 86th year
of his age, and 31st of his ministry.
‘He being dead yet speaketh."
The monument has been at one period surrounded by an
excellent wire fence, but the woolly occupants of the enclosure having
taken a fancy to rub themselves against it, the wires have been bent and
displaced, so that there is little to hinder the animals now from
scratching themselves against Mr. Mossman’s chaste and beautiful carvings.
Robert Wodrow was born at Glasgow in the year 1679; his
father, the Rev. James Wodrow, having been at that period professor of
divinity in the University. In 1691 he was entered a student in the
University of his native city; and, after a short period, in consequence
of the extraordinary aptitude which he displayed for historical and
bibliographical researches, he was appointed to the office of librarian to
that learned institution. While in this situation, which he held for four
years, he studied with the greatest earnestness the ecclesiastical and
literary history of his native land. At the termination of his academical
career, he resided for some time with his kinsman, Sir John Maxwell of
Pollok, then one of the Lords of Session. While living at Pollok, a
vacancy occurred at Eastwood by the death of Mr. Matthew Crawford, author
of a History of the Church of Scotland (which is yet, we believe,
unpublished), and Mr. Wodrow was appointed, by the patronage of Sir John
Maxwell, to the ministry of the parish. Although at that period one of the
smallest parishes in the West of Scotland, Mr. Wodrow seems to have been
contented with his situation, and continued to perform the duties of his
calling in it till his death, which, as has been already noticed, occurred
in the thirty-first year of his ministry. Besides taking a prominent part
in the public business of the Church, Mr. Wodrow composed a History of
the Sufferings of the Church of Scotland from the Restoration to the
Revolution, which was published in two folio volumes, and several
other works of a religious and literary nature, all of which are
deservedly held in high esteem. He seems also to have devoted a
considerable portion of his leisure time to the study of antiquities and
natural history. George Crawfurd, a contemporary and friend of Wodrow’s,
in his History of Renfrewshire, mentions a collection of fossil
shells which he had made, and characterizes him as "a gentleman well seen
in the natural history of the country." Altogether, the old minister of
Eastwood seems to have been a truly estimable and worthy individual, an
ornament to the Church to which he belonged, and a valuable as well as
voluminous contributor to the literature of his country. In Fox’s
History of the early part of the Reign of James the Second, that
eminent statesman has passed a eulogium upon his fidelity and impartiality
as a historian; while the esteem in which his memory is held by the
literary antiquaries of Scotland may be inferred from the fact, that a
Society under his name has been established in Edinburgh for the
publication of old works of an ecclesiastical nature.
A little .to the south of the Eastwood burying-ground,
in a fine hollow, watered by the Auldhouse burn, is the village of
Thornliebank, with the extensive manufacturing establishment of the
Messrs. Crum, in which the greater portion of the inhabitants are
employed. The manufacture of cotton is carried on here on an enlarged
scale, the works embracing every process from the spinning of the raw
material to the finishing of the most beautiful dyed and printed fabrics.
Walter Crum, Esq., one of the leading partners of this wealthy and
enterprising firm, is well known as one of the most eminent practical
chemists of the present day.
Retracing our steps to Pollokshaws, we now proceed to
visit the seat of Sir John Maxwell, Bart., of Pollok, which is situated in
a delightful position, on the north bank of the Cart, a little to the
south-west of the town. The house is a spacious edifice, four storeys in
height, and of the plainest architectural appearance; comfort and
commodiousness, rather than ornamental grandeur, having been obviously
attended to in its construction. It was erected in 1753 by the
great-grandfather of the present possessor, who died a few weeks after its
completion. The castle previously occupied by the family, which stood a
little to the eastward, was shortly afterwards entirely demolished, with
the exception of a small portion, apparently the remains of a massive
tower, which was pointed out to us, embedded in the garden-wall. The
offices of the present mansion now occupy the site and its more warlike
predecessor. On an eminence in the vicinity, which commands a magnificent
prospect of the country for many miles around, a still older castle
formerly stood. Not a vestige of this ancient structure now remains to
mark its whereabouts. Desolation as complete has fallen upon it as that
predicted for his own mansion by Thomas the Rhymer, when he said, in
bitterness of spirit,
"The hare shall kittle on my hearth-stane."
While we stand musing on the spot, the redbreast is
piping his dreary autumnal song on a spreading beech which has been
planted on the site of the vanished towers, and we see the glossy plumage
of the pheasant glancing in the sunbeam, as, disturbed by our presence, it
glides away into the shade of the tangled underwood. Crawfurd, who wrote
in 1710, mentions in his minute and curious History of Renfrewshire,
that in his day the remains of the drawbridge and fosse were still
visible.
The gardens and pleasure grounds of Pollok are on a
princely scale of magnificence. The Cart, which is spanned by an elegant
bridge in the vicinity of the house, winds beautifully through the park,
which is finely sprinkled with clumps of wood and picturesque sylvan
individualities (to make use of a Johnsonian phrase) every here and there
standing "alone in their glory," and exhibiting to the practised eye the
distinguishing peculiarities of their various species. We have seldom,
indeed, witnessed finer woodland studies than are to be found in the
spacious park of Pollok. Old Evelyn would have travelled ,a long summer
day, and reckoned himself amply repaid for his labour, by the sight of a
single group of wych-elms which grace the bank of the river a little to
the east of the mansion. These fine trees were described in Mr. Strutt’s
Sylva Britannica, published in 1826, a splendid but expensive work,
the Scottish division of which was dedicated to Sir John, then Mr.
Maxwell, younger, of Pollok. The principal member of the group was
measured a number of years since for Mr. London’s work on trees, and was
found to be ninety feet in height, and four feet in diameter at a yard and
a-half from the ground. Nor is it only in modern times that the grounds of
Pollok have been shadowed by sylvan giants. Several years ago an immense
trunk of oak was discovered in the bed of the Cart at this place. With
great difficulty it was excavated from the gravelly bank, when it was
found to be not less than twenty feet in circumference. This immense mass
of primeval timber has since been scooped out, and formed into a
summer-house, in which character we saw it in the garden, and had the
pleasure of resting ourselves for a brief space in its capacious interior.
The ancient and honourable family of the Maxwells of
Pollok, to whom the greater portion of the parish of Eastwood or
Pollokshaws belongs, is descended from the Maxwells of Carlaverock, and
has been located here since the end of the thirteenth century. An ancient
document, of date 1273, is still in existence, which bears the signature
of "John Maxwell, Lord of Nether Pollok," the ancestor of the present Sir
John. The representatives of the family have at various periods taken a
prominent position in the history of the country. In the reign of Queen
Mary Sir John Maxwell, who had been knighted by that fair but illfated
monarch, adhered faithfully to her cause through all her misfortunes. On
the escape of Mary from Lochleven and her flight to Hamilton, she sent a
communication to Sir John, ordering him to come to her aid with his
friends and servants. This royal missive is still carefully preserved at
Pollok. It is as follows:—
To our Traist Friend,
"Ye Laird of Nether Pollok.
"Traist friend, we greet you well. We dowt not bot ye know that God of his
gudnes has put us at llbertie; quhome we thank maist heartlie.—Quhairfore
desires you wt all possible diligence faill not to be heir at us in
Hamylton wt alt your folks friends and serwands bodin in feir of weir as
ye will do us acceptable service and pleasure. Because we know yor
constance. We need not at this put to mak langer Lyr but will byd you
fairweill.
"Off Hamylton, ye V. of Maij 1668. (Signed) Mairie R."
The summons was obeyed, and Sir John and his friends
were engaged on the losing side at the decisive skirmish of Langside. A
number of other papers of considerable antiquity are preserved in the
family archives, among which are a letter from James VI. to the Laird of
Pollok, requesting provision for the Prince’s baptism—a curious trait of
the times; and the original of the Solemn League and Covenant, with the
signatures of the King and Council, dated 1587.
After a lengthened and extremely pleasant stroll
through the policies and gardens of Pollok, we return to Pollokshaws,
whence, after a brief interval of rest, we proceed to visit the ruins of
Haggs Castle, which are situated about a mile to the west of the town.
This ancient and time-worn edifice, with its belt of trees, forms a fine
feature in the landscape for a considerable distance around. In its
"better days" it has combined architectural elegance with a degree of
strength necessary to the security of its inmates in those "good old
times" when the strong hand was to an inconvenient extent the law of the
land. The walls are in some places upwards of five feet in thickness,
while the durability of the material of which they are composed is obvious
from the excellent state of preservation in which the carvings on their
exterior surface still exist. Several vaults or chambers (we are puzzled
to say which) are still quite entire; in one of which, at the eastern
gable, is an immense fire-place, redolent of hospitable associations, and
which must have been capable of roasting at once a whole ox, supported by
a couple of wethers, or a perfect host of minor culinary subjects. The
place has now a dark, dismal, and chilly appearance, as if many many years
must have elapsed since the cheerful blaze illuminated its capacious jaws,
or the jagged flames roared in its bat-haunted chimney. An elegant window
and several finely caned ornaments still adorn the principal front of the
edifice. Over the main doorway, on a triangular stone, there is an antique
inscription, now almost illegible, from which it appears that the castle
was erected in 1585 by Sir John Maxwell and his spouse Margaret Conyngham.
The legend is as follows:—
1585
Ni Domin
Ædes Strvxe
Rit Frvstra Strvis.
Sir John Maxwell of Pollk Knight
And D. Margaret Conyngham
His Wife bigget this House."
The Latin portion of this inscription, from its
arbitrary construction and curious abbreviations, has been a fruitful
source of controversy to the Jonathan Oldbucks of the neighbourhood. Many
and various have been the readings which have been suggested and contested
with a warmth peculiar to antiquarian discussion. The most abstruse
meanings have been discovered and proclaimed with flourish of trumpet, but
only to be denounced and exploded by the lore of suceeding savants.
Not being prepared with a theory of our own, we shall, with due deference
to more learned authorities, give the most recent, and what seems to our
non-professional intellect the most plausible translation, which is, that
it is only a fanciful rendering of the passage from Psalms—" Unless the
Lord build the house, they labour in vain who build it."
Concerning the history of this interesting edifice
extremely little is known. It seems to have been used as a jointure house
by the family of Pollok, and, indeed, was probably built for that purpose.
During the time of the persecution in Scotland it appears that the Knight
of Pollok, who belonged to the Covenanting party, occasionally concealed
within its walls the outlawed ministers who had been driven from their
homes by fear of Claverhouse and his bloodthirsty myrmidons. Information
was on one occasion lodged with the Episcopal Archbishop of the district
that conventides and prayer meetings were held at the castle of Haggs
under the auspices of its proprietors; and Wodrow mentions that in 1676
Mr. Jamieson, the ejected minister of Govan, "gave the Sacrament in the
house of the Haggs, within two miles of Glasgow, along with another
clergyman." The family of Pollok suffered severely for the attachment
which they thus exhibited to the cause of the Covenant. By a decree
of the Privy Council, dated December 2, 1684,
a fine of £8,000 sterling was inflicted on Sir John Maxwell for the
alleged crime of receiving into his house and holding converse with the
nonconformist ministers. On refusing to pay this enormous sum—for such in
those days it really was—the worthy knight was condemned to imprisonment
for sixteen months. The worthy baronet alluded to does not seem to have
lived long after this period, as we find that a Sir George Maxwell was the
Lord of Pollok in 1688. This individual is known in local tradition as the
bewitched baronet. On one occasion Sir George was seized with a severe
illness, and as the doctors could do nothing for him his malady was
ascribed to witchcraft. Suspicion led to certainty. A young vagrant woman
having heard of the dread surmise, undertook to discover the offenders.
This she at once set about, and to the astonishment of all, she accused
several of the most respectable tenants on the Pollok estate. These
parties she had private reasons for hating; and by cunningly secreting
images of clay stuck full of pins about their houses, and afterwards
pretending to find them, she lent an air of probability to her foul
accusations, which in those days were sufficient to consign her victims to
the tar-barrel. A special commission was ordered by government to
investigate the matter, consisting of several Justiciary lords and the
leading gentlemen of Renfrewshire. The result was, that the charges were
found clearly proven, and no fewer than seven persons were actually
sentenced to be strangled and burned—a sentence which, however monstrous
it may now appear, was rigidly carried into effect. Full details of this
melancholy event may be found in a work entitled The Renfrewshire
Witches; and still, as a clever modern ballad on the subject, by Mr.
Peter M’Arthur, states—
"The story Is told by legends old,
And by withered dame and sire,
When they sit secure from the winter's cold
All around the evening fire:
How the faggots blazed on the Gallowgreen,
Where they hung the witches high;
And their smouldering forms were grimly seen
Till darkend the lowering sky."
We are happy to observe that the Sir John Maxwell of
our own day, with praiseworthy taste, has adopted measures for the proper
preservation of this fine old building. A dung-hill, which a few years
since stood in its vicinity, has been removed, and certain portions of the
walls, which were threatened with speedy prostration, have been
strengthened and supported; while the entire building has been enclosed
and placed under the charge of an individual who is always ready to admit
parties wishing to inspect it, but whose presence necessarily acts as a
check on the wanton or evil-disposed.
From Haggs, in a north-west direction, there is a fine
country road, leading, by a farm-house, on a gentle but commanding
eminence, to the Glasgow and Paisley Canal. By this route we return to the
city, where we arrive somewhere about that dubious hour, "between the
gloamin’ and the mirk," which calls the star into the sky, the bat into
the air, and (bathos apart) the most useful of the trio, the lamplighter
into the street.
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