"That’s the Forth,’ said the
Baillie, with an air of reverence which I have observed the Scotch usually
pay to their distinguished rivers. The Clyde, the Tweed, the Forth, and
the Spey are usually named by those who dwell on their banks with a sort
of respect sad pride."—Rob
Roy.
Not only are the above remarks of
the author of Waverly true with regard to the larger rivers
of Scotland, but they also hold good with respect to the most diminutive
of her streamlets and burns. The Scotch have a perfect passion, indeed,
for the "living waters" with which their beautiful country is everywhere
so delightfully intersected. Every one of them, from the greatest even
unto the least, is duly named, or christened if you will; and the music of
their names—for they are nearly all concords of sweetest sound— flows into
the very hearts of those who dwell among their green banks and braes, and
not unfrequently comes welling forth again in never-dying melody. Glance
at the glowing pages of Scotia’s matchless book of song, and you will at
once learn the depth and fervour of that affection which the natives of
the cannie North bear to the running waters of their "ain countrie."
Beyond the Tweed the traveller often asks in vain at the dull chawbacon
the designation of brook or stream. The wee’est toddlin’ bairn in
Scotland, with the faintest development even of "the gift of the gab," can
at once name its own natal burn; and not only that, but would volunteer on
the instant to show the stranger the favourite pools where the little
minnow and the "beardie" have their haunts, and the shallows where the
weans of the clachan best love to paidle among the tiny wavelets. The bard
of Coila, who has invested many waters with a music sweeter than their
own, never touched a deeper chord than when, in his love-fraught lay of
Langsyne, he makes the long-parted friends recall the wadings of life’s
young day. How many bosoms have melted in tearful sympathy over the two
simple lines,
"We twa hae paldl’t in the burn,
True morning sun till dine."
We have seen gray-headed men, "loof
locked in loof," crooning them in trembling tones together; while the saut,
saut pearls of memory were trickling down each furrowed cheek; and we have
seen young men and maidens fair encircling in alternate links the festive
board, and chanting them in loving and heartfelt harmony. In the lowly
cottage and in the lofty hall they find a sympathetic echo; at home,
amongst our own gray hills, or ayont the faem in the land of the stranger,
wherever two or three of Scotia’s callants are gathered together, there is
heard, midst mingling tears and smiles, the song of songs that brings them
back the happy days of youth, and the remembrance of their ain burn-side,
First, and most beautiful of rivers to our heart and
eye, is our own dear Clyde.
"Let others love the tangled Forth,
Or mountain-shadowed Spey,
The Don, the Dee, wake others’ glee,
Fair Tweed or queenly Tay.
"From all their charms, with open
arms,
We turn in love and pride
To thy green ways and flow’ry braes,
Our own, our native Clyde."
Yet is our love anything but
exclusive. We love thee also, O sylvan Tweed! although to us thou art but
a name. Yarrow, albeit unvisited, is dear unto our heart, for sake of
those who have sorrowed and sung by her side. The Doon, the Lugar, and the
Cart have, since our earliest days, been in name familiar as household
words to our ear and our soul in the lyrics of Scotland’s sweetest singers
and we have since gazed upon their material charms with ever-increasing
admiration and delight. As well attempt to
"Count the leaves of aft the trees,
Count the waves of all the seas,"
as to reckon the number of
our beloved waters. Yet we have undoubtedly favourites among the wimpling
murmurers. Clyde is, of course, the foremost and the best; then there is
the tiny Earn, the beautiful brown-tinted Earn, that winsome wanderer by
lonely paths, whom we are now about to unveil. Thou too, reader, must be
numbered among her admirers, or we shall henceforth have serious doubts of
thy taste.
Our first introduction, we may
premise, to the Earn was through the inspired writings of Christopher
North, some score of years ago. How lovingly the "old man eloquent"
babbled of its charms! It was the stream of his boyhood; and the golden
light of langsyne flickered round his pen as in memory he delineated its
beauties. He was once again the yellow-haired stripling, roving at will
among the wild moors—a lonely but happy familiar of bird, and beast, and
flower, with insatiate spirit feeding on the beautiful. He had again
donned for the first time the sporting jacket, and was treading the plashy
brink of the brother loch, or threading the. mazes of the amber Earn,
waging deadly war with the red-speckled front. The description was, in
truth, steeped in richest poesy, and made such an impression on our
youthful imagination, that we determined to make a pilgrimage to the
locality for the express purpose of gazing upon the loveliness of what
seemed to our mind’s eye a species of fairy land. Years passed away,
however, and the Earn was still to us a waking ,dream. The Course of
Time, which afterwards fell into our hands, recalled it more vividly
to our memory. The author of that noble poem was born in the immediate
vicinity of this moorland stream, and spent the happiest portion of his
too brief existence "here below" amongst its lonely banks and braes. Again
we purposed a ramble amid the scenery which genius had hallowed by the
light of its presence but again time was permitted to slip away, and
although we obtained on several occasions a passing glimpse of the Earl,
our resolve to spend a long summer day
"Adown its sweet meander"
remained unaccomplished. A friend,
who is familiar with every turn and winding of the stream, however, has at
length persuaded us to include the vale of the Earn in our series of
Rambles, and we have consequently now to request the company of our
readers on this our long-proposed and long deferred excursion.
It is a lovely August morning.
Phœbus, to use the words of honest Allan Ramsay, has begun
"To sped the Olympian brae
Wi’ a cart-lade o’ bleezin’ day;"
while the yellow fields below reflect untarnished the
radiance of his slanting beams. Leaving the city and its smoky atmosphere,
how deliciously fresh and cool is the breath of the young autumn as we
meet it among the dewy hedge-rows! A slight touch of frost lingers In the
air, and the beads of evening are still unmelted on the lace-work of the
field-spider, which clings to bush and tree. How loudly sounds the horn of
chantieleer among the scattered farmsteads! how liquid soft the pipings of
the robin among the rustling foliage of the birch! Blessings upon thy
bright black eye and thy swelling breast of red, sweet songster of’ the
autumn day! The blackbird’s golden hill is silent now in the woodland
glade; the voice of the throstle is mute in the leafy choir, while the
lark is heard no more in the far blue vault of heaven, showering his merry
music-drops o’er mead and moor; but thou hast still a lay of love for the
waning year, "most musical, most melancholy." When the fields are bare,
and the barn-yards are crowded; when the plough is at rest, and the stream
has ceased to flow; when the glory has departed from the forest, and the
storm sweeps pitiless over the flowerless lea, thou art still heard in the
fitful pauses of the blast, like hope in the breast of affliction, singing
thy notes of solace and of "promised joy." But whence come those jocund
voices—those loud-ringing bursts of laughter? From the gladsome harvest
field, from amid the fast-falling grain. See, here are the reapers, a
merry, motley crew of many-coloured garb, with the waving gold before
them, and thick-strewn stooks in lengthening rows behind. Old age and
youth side by side are striving here together. That ancient matron with
the flannel mutch would scorn to lag behind the blooming buff-capped
kimmer on the next rig; yon gray-haired carle, observe, is in advance of
the swankie chiel who calls him neighbour. "There is life in the old dog
yet." Cupid, with a reaping-hook instead of his customary bow, is also
there. How slyly that swain with the blue plush vest is shearing his way
into the affections of the sonsie queen beyond him! The fellow is actually
doing half her work, although sorely tantalized for his gallantry by that
wicked wag of an Irishman, whose rude jest brings the burning blush to the
cheek of the conscious maiden, and sets the field in a roar. But we must
end our contemplation of the picturesque group, and move upon our way. We
too have a harvest to gather. Passing bonny Cathcart, with its blue smoke
curling over the trees, its fine old castle, and its fine new kirk;
Clarkston, with its roadside cottages; and Busby, with its hives of
industry; we soon arrive at Waterfoot, the lovely meeting-place of Earn
and Cart, and the last sweet scene in the former streamlet’s devious but
withal brief pilgrimage. By the by, while waiting for our friend, who
trysted to foregather with us here, we may mention that we have "a craw to
pick" with Christopher the Great in regard to this same water of Cart. In
his most beautiful article "Our Parish," when talking of the stream which
is even now murmuring a welcome to its amber tributary at our feet, he
says, "The Cart!—ay, the river Cart—not that on which pretty Paisley
stands, but the Black Cart, beloved by us chiefly for sake of Cathcart
Castle, which, when a collegian at Glasgow, we visited every play-Friday,
and deepened the ivy on its walls with our first sombre dreams." Now, old
man (though Heaven bless thee for thy remembrance of the castle of our
boyish love), we have here caught thee tripping. This is in truth none
other than the veritable White Cart which, far below, and after many a
beauteous sweep and playful winding, washes the walls of Paisley’s
time-honoured town, thy own loved place of birth. That thistle-top, which
with our trusty switch we send whizzing into the yeasty foam, will,
mill-dam interruptions excepted, most assuredly, ere tomorrow’s dawn,
dance over the "Hammils" and past the fragrant Sneddon to meet the Black
Cart at Inchinnan Bridge.
After lingering for a brief space at
Waterfoot, gazing on the mingling waters as they gush in music over the
shelving rocks, and watching the wagtails flitting in graceful curves from
stone to stone, we are greeted with the blythe good-morrow and kindly
smile of our friend Mr. Pollok, brother of the bard, who has left his
haymaking for a day to introduce us with all the honours to his native
stream. "Cobbie’s isle" first claims our attention. This is an insular
patch of land, situated in a fork of the Earn, which flows into the Cart
by two channels—one a mill-lade, the other the natural bed of the water.
On this tiny isle there is a one-storeyed cottage, which for many years
was inhabited by an eccentric old man, a cooper to profession, who had a
pet gander called "Cobbie," which he loved exceedingly. The snow-white
bird, indeed, was the pride of the venerable cooper’s heart. He loved to
see it gliding over the smooth mill-dam with its companion shadow, or
breasting the dancing foam-flakes below the rocky linn. Often, in the
summer afternoons, would he stand for hours at the end of his cot, gazing
upon the evolutions of his feathered favourite, or feeding it from his
hand as it floated near the gravelled margin. But "all that’s bright must
fade," and poor Cobbie went at length the way of all living. The man of
hoops and staves was disconsolate, and mourned his bereavement many days.
To perpetuate the name of the lost one, however, be conferred its name
upon the island of his habitation. The neighbours around, to please the
old man, adopted the designation; and now, though years have elapsed since
he has passed away, the name of Cobbie still clings to the spot.
Along the flowery margin of the
Earn, in a south-westerly direction, we now wend our devious way. With
daylight brilliance in the picture, instead of the moon’s pale beams, the
playful streamlet here realizes, in the minutest feature, Burns’s
inimitable description,—
"Whiles ower a linn the burnie plays,
As through the glen it wimples,
While, round a roeky scaur it strays,
While, in a well it dimples;
Whiles glitterin’ in the noontide rays,
wi' bickering dancing dazzle,
Whiles cookin’ underneath the brass
Below the spreading hazel."
Now it is leaping in
whiteness over some channel stone; now it sweeps sullenly ‘neath some
overhanging cliff, libhened and gray, or velveted with the greenest of
moss; and anon it reflects in its glassy bosom some solitary birch or
drooping group of saughs. How richly tangled with vegetation is its brink
at every sunny turn! The wild rose-bush with its fast reddening hips, the
bramble with its tempting bunches of ebon-dye, and
the hazel with its clear brown clusters, in bosky
luxuriance, are projecting over the steep banks, and form a screen of
beauty to the jinking, gurgling, foam-fretted wanderer below. Didst ever
see such stately thistles as compose yon hoary-headed group, now flinging
their fairy parachutes to the passing breeze? We trow not;—and. see, here
is Scotland’s ain blue-bell, not "lurking lowly unseen," but trailing with
a graceful pride over the brow of yonder precipice in miniature, and side
by side with the crimson belts of heather, and the bright golden tufts of
the bird-foot trefoil, while the green plume of the bracken hangs sweetly
over them, and curtains their loveliness from "the garish eye of day."
This is Windmill farm-steading to the left, and you may observe that,
compared with the crops we have seen in our own warm isle, the "stuff
hereabouts is still unco green." It promises well, however, and we doubt
not that yonder now empty barn-yard will see another sight and tell a far
other tale some half dozen weeks hence. The district around us is rather
of a pastoral than an agricultural character. The spiky wheat is seldom
seen here; but it is from these green hills that Glasgow receives her
spates of sour dook, her humplucks of rich yellow butter, and her kebbucks
innumerable of palatable cheese.
After pursuing for an hour or so
"the linked sweetness long drawn out" of the sportive Earn, which in truth
does not seem to know its own mind for two consecutive minutes, but keeps
turning and winding, now hither, now yont, zigzagging fantastically from
right to left, and occasionally even manifesting a decided inclination to
retrace its steps; we arrive opposite the firm of Floors, at a picturesque
bend where formerly stood the mill of Ross. There is here a fine lion,
some ten feet in height, which in bygone days gave motion to the wheel,
but which is now singing its eerie tune to the echoes of an unbroken
solitude. Of the mill not one stone remains upon another. A few stately
ash trees, through which the blue smoke from the miller’s hearth may have
curled long ago, wave drearily over the spot—sole vestiges of what has
been. In his boyhood, our friend remembers coming with a "melder" to the
miller of Ross, who had a bien and a braw house then:
"Hens on the midden, ducks in the
burn were seen,"
while a gaucy gudewife, with a bairn
in her arms, graced the door-cheek, and watched with motherly pride a
number of wee toddlin’ things, with flaxen hair and rosy cheeks, who were
tumbling before her on the green. But all is dull and lifeless now. The
cheerful din of the happer is heard no more; the loud laugh of the jolly
miller, the prattle of playful children, and the crowing of the household
cock, all, all are now silent. Nature has resumed her peaceful sway. The
rank nettle waves on the site of cheery but-and-ben, and the solitary hare
may kittle undisturbed on the cold hearth-stone.
We are now in the immediate vicinity
of the ancient castle of Mearns, and for a brief space must turn aside
from the Earn to visit the time-honoured edifice. A few minutes’ uphill
walk brings us to Auldtoun Farm, where we are welcomed with a delicious
bowl of cold milk, and are introduced by our friend to the farmer’s niece,
Katie Pollok, a bonnie bit sonsie Scotch lassie, dressed becomingly in
shortgown and coat. Katie we soon discover to be fond of flowers, and
enthusiastically in love with the auld tower. After showing us her
pansies, which she denominates "step-mothers and daughters," a goodly
show, we proceed to the castle-hill, accompanied by a sagacious collie,
Whase gaucy tall, wi’ upward cur’,
Rings ower his hurdies wi’ a swirl.-'
The Castle of Mearns is situated on
the summit of a commanding knoll, the steep and somewhat rugged sides of
which are densely covered, with wood. The structure consists of a strong
quadrangular tower, the walls of which are from seven to eight feet in
thickness, and are pierced at irregular intervals by windows and
loopholes. In former times this sturdy keep, which is still in an
excellent state of preservation, was surrounded by a thick wall, which has
now disappeared, with the exception of a few vestiges of the foundation.
There are also traces of an ancient drawbridge. But little is known of the
origin or history of Mearns Castle. According to tradition it was erected
at an early period by a chief of Mearns, named Johnston, whose residence
previously was on a less elevated position in the neighbourhood. Being
disturbed one morning while at breakfast by a party of his enemies,
Johnston, who seems to have been too partial to a quiet meal for that rude
age, resolved to build a place of strength wherein he could enjoy himself
without fear of his foes. The present edifice was the result; but it is
said that its erection cost the chief so many slices of his barony that,
when it was finished, he had scarcely wherewithal to purchase a breakfast.
In the pithy words of Katie Pollok, "for sake o’ his guts he had e’en
biggit himsel’ oot at the door." The first authentic circumstance
regarding the Mearns Castle which occurs in history, was its transfer by
marriage, with an heiress who bore the surname of Macgeachin, to the
Maxwells of Carlaverock, in the reign of Alexander the Second. After
remaining for several centuries in the family of Maxwell, it was
ultimately sold by the Earl of Nithsdale about the year 1648 to Sir George
Maxwell of Nether Pollok, from whom it shortly afterwards passed into the
possession of Sir Archibald Stewart of Blackhall, whose descendant, Sir
Michael Shaw Stewart, is the present proprietor.
The interior of the edifice, which
is still in good preservation, has in recent times been the scene of more
than one festive assemblage. The members of the Mearns troop of Yeomanry
cavalry, previous to their disembodiment, held several of their annual
balls within the precincts of the ancient hall, when the rank and beauty
of the district graced it with their presence. For a number of years past,
however, it has been entirely deserted, the doors and windows having been
securely blocked up, while the minister of the parish has been entrusted
with the keys. Under these circumstances we might have found some
difficulty in effecting an entrance, but for an event which, to the
serious injury of the castle, had occurred a short time previous to our
visit. The fortalice, during a late thunder-storm, was actually struck
with a shaft from heaven, which effectually demolished the barricades in
the windows, and thus cleared a passage which affords free ingress. A
flag-staff on the summit had apparently attracted the electric fluid,
which, in its passage to the earth, caused a large rent in the wall from
top to bottom, and, with the force of the concussion, drove the
window-boards out with such force that some of the splinters were
afterwards found at a distance of many yards. We now make our way into the
hall without leave of the minister, for which his reverence, we dare say,
will readily excuse us. It is a spacious apartment, of somewhat modern
aspect, having been replastered and otherwise altered, apparently to
render it more suitable for ball-room purposes. Descending by a narrow
staircase, we next enter a dark vaulted chamber underneath, the gloom of
which is only rendered visible by the scanty radiance admitted by a narrow
loop-hole in the thick wall. This was probably the prison or dungeon of
the establishment in "the brave days of old" when mercy to a vanquished
foe was a virtue somewhat sparingly exercised. Our fair friend, Katie,
seems rather unwilling to enter this dreary den, and on our asking the
reason of her reluctance, says—"I dinna ken, but folk say it’s no a canny
place. I've never seen onything ill in’t mysel’; but some tinkler bodies
that took up their lodgings in the ha’ abune got sic a fricht wi’
something doon here that they were fain to take French leave, and never
durst venture back again. So I think we’ll be jist as weel to slip awa’ up
the stairs." Taking Katie’s advice, we now ascend to the battlements of
the tower, from which we obtain a splendid prospect of the surrounding
country. To the south are the dreary moors of Eaglesham, swelling
gradually upwards to Ballygeich, and fretted with numerous flocks and
herds. Westward, amidst a very sea of verdant knolls, dumps of wood, and
yellow fields, are Mearns Kirk and the Newton, with Dod Hill and Neilston
Pad in the distance. To the north and east is the great valley of the
Clyde, studded with towns, villages, and mansions, while the Renfrewshire,
Kilpatrick, and Campsie hills rise proudly beyond, and the blue mountains
of the Gael are faintly visible on the misty horizon. Beautiful, indeed,
is the wavy bosom of the Means, as it lies outspread before us in the warm
sunshine of the autumn noon. Merry groups are busy in the fields, and the
blue smoke curling over cottage and hall gives pleasant indication of
happy hearths. Yonder, observe, is the fine old baronial house of Nether
Pollok; there again is Broomhouse, with its green lawn and shadowy trees;
while here is the manse of Mearns, half hidden among foliage—the home of
Christopher North’s boyhood. Could you fancy
a more appropriate
place for the nurture of a youthful poet? Over these sunny braes ran the
yellow-haired boy, gathering insensibly the rich stores of natural imagery
with which he has since delighted the world. Where we are now sitting he
has sat; and often, in his dreams of day or night, would the features of
the landscape on which we are now gazing in rap-tune flit across the
inward eye of that eloquent old man,—
"For there’s no place half so sweet
on earth,
As the home of life’s young day.’
"From morning sun till dine" we
could linger in truth on this venerable tower, companion of the waIl-flower
which nods at our feet to the passing gale, and monarch of the wide realm
of beauty which we survey; but the day is wearing on apace, and we have
still many links of the Earn to unravel ere our darg is done. So, fair
Kate, we must descend to Collie, who is waiting patiently for us behind
the stile. What a delicious spring we have here under the trees—clear as
the glittering crystal, and cool as December’s ice! Doubtless thou hast
arranged thy snood in this unwrinkled mirror ere now, Kate, as the flowers
even now are doing. That drooping foxglove seems to admire its own fair
image exceedingly, and stoops as if it fain would kiss the purpled water.
It is a pleasing floral illustration indeed of the old song—
"Keek into the draw-well, Janet,
Janet,
There thou’ll see thy bonnie sel’,
My Jo, Janet.
Bidding Katie a kind farewell, we
now return to the margin of the Earn. For some distance above Ross mill,
the course of the stream is somewhat tame. It still keeps turning and
winding playfully; but the banks are less bold, and the channel is less
frequently interrupted by those shelving rocks which prevail farther down.
Now and then we meet with a murmuring rapid, however, where the angler
might linger with a fair hope of tempting the speckled trout to rise to
the treacherous fly. The sand-lark loves these gravelly shallows, and as
we move along it keeps fluttering before us with its querulous cry of "kee-lee-Ieep,"
from which it has received its common Scottish name. Vegetation is
gradually becoming less dense as we advance into the breast of the moor.
The iris and the meadow-sweet still accompany us, however, with the "leddie’s
thistle" and a rich variety of tall grasses, which wave gracefully to and
fro with every breath of zephyr. Occasionally a field of oats steals down
almost to the edge of the water, "a’ fading green and yellow," and every
now and then the potato ridges intercept our path with their crowns of
mingled thaw and bloom. Few and far between we meet a tuft of saugh, a
stunted hazel, or a scraggy mountain ash devoid of berries. Yet there is a
pleasing appearance of coming plenty on the neighbouring braes and round
the cosie-looking farmsteads. The golden feet of autumn indeed are visibly
advancing o’er the rustling grain; and are not her blushes beginning to be
obvious on the cheek of the apple? Well, indeed might our friend, the
author of" Wee Willie Winkie," exclaim—were he now by our side, as we
could almost wish for his own sake he were,—
"O hairst time’s like a lippen cup
That, glen wi furthy glee;
The fields are rich wi' yellow corn—
Red apples bow the tree;
The genty air, sae leddy like,
Has on a scented gown;
And wi' an airy string she leads
The thistle-seed balloon."
Passing "Humbie Brig," and the fine
farm of Titwood, we soon arrive at the bleachwork of Hazelden, where we
cross to the south or Eaglesham side of the Earn. A few minutes’ walk
farther, during which we pass Hazelden Head, Hazelden Mains, and various
other places with Hazelden prefixes, brings us to the lands of North
Moorhouse, the birth-place of Robert Pollok, the gifted author of The
Course of Time. The banks of the stream are here of the most beautiful
description. On either side they rise, in softest verdure, to a
considerable height in natural terraces, some of which are scooped out
into smooth green dells, with a regularity of outline which seems to be
rather the production of art than of nature. This indentation, carpeted
with horsetail, which is known by the name of "Chaumer Braes," looks as if
it had been designed for a Covenanting place of worship. How beautifully
adapted it is to be the local habitation of such a group as the pencil of
Haney can so well delineate! Or might it not rather be a meeting-place for
the moonlight fairies, a fit spot for Oberon and Titania to hold their
mimic court? The thick-coming fancies of a Noel Paton could not, I ween,
be introduced on a more appropriately decorated stage. Here the youthful
poet spent his early days. When a wee, wee boy, our companion, his elder
brother, has often taken him to these green and lonely bites for company
when watching his father’s kine. Together they have paidled in the stream
which murmurs even now as sweetly as in other days at our feet; together
they have gathered the wild flowers, which then, even as now, adorned each
sunny nook; and who can doubt that the scenery of this very spot mingled
in the heaven of his imagination, afterwards so beautifully depicted in
the great poem which has become even as a household word in the religious
homes of his country! Like Robert Nicoll, another true poet of the
hillside, he might well have said,—
"I thought the little burnie ran,
And sang the while to me;
To glad me, flowers came on the earth,
And leaves upon the tree;
And heather on the moorlands grew,
And tarns in glens did lie.
Of beauteous things like these I dream't
When I was herdin’ kye"
But let us turn aside to yonder
knoll, to visit the poet’s favourite gowk (Anglice, cuckoo) stone.
This was a ponderous mass of granite, whereon it was observed the cuckoo,
on its annual migrations to the vale, loved to sit and pipe its cheery but
monotonous song. Here it was first seen in the early summer by the
neighbouring peasantry, and here, when the "pea puts on its bloom," it
chanted its farewell strain. Alas! alas! it is rent and shivered now. We
were not destined to witness it in its entirety. Two short weeks since a
bolt from on high alighted upon the gowk stone, and shattered it
fearfully. Several massive fragments still mark the spot, but a
considerable portion has been scattered, like chaff to the winds, by the
resistless stroke of the lightning. ‘Tis a "sorry sight" to our companion,
who loved the stone for its association with memories of sweet langsyne;
and we sympathizingly assist him to gather the debris into its place, that
the gowk in future springs may still continue to
haunt the spot.
Resuming our walk by the Earn we
encounter two notaries of the "gentle art," earnestly lashing the rippled
bosom of the stream. "Well, what luck have ye had to-day, lads?" was our
inquiry, after the usual compliments had passed. "Oh, jist middlin’," Was
the reply of the foremost disciple of old Izaak; "the Water’s o’er clear
an’ the licht ower strong the day for the burn-trout." "We’ve had a rise
or twa, though," interposed the other, "and I daursay, if we had twa-three
worms, we micht dae no that ill yet." Patience and hope are indeed
necessary mental qualifications for successful angling. The weather,
somehow or other, is almost always adverse to the sport—at lest if we are
entitled to form an opinion from the answers, evasive or apologetical,
which we have invariably received from the numerous piscators encountered
in our walks. A well-filled
creel is a thing we have seldom or never seen. Yet hear
the burn-side Munchausens over their toddy, and miraculous indeed are the
draughts which they have one and all brought home! Well, well, it is
doubtless a harmless hobby; but how we have enjoyed the quiet meaning
smile which has played over a
conscious matron’s features the while her lord
and master was triumphantly recounting the number and weight of his tinny
captures!
Immediately after taking leave of
the anglers, which we do with the expression of a hope that their sport
may prove better farther down, we pass a little ford where the Moor-house
people are in the habit of crossing the stream when making a "short cut"
to the village of Mearns. Many a time and oft the future poet has "buckled
his breeks’ and forded the Earn at this spot, when on his way to school at
the Kirktoun. Here, also, it was that, in company with a cousin of his
own, he concocted a notable scheme for outwitting honest "uncle Andrew,"
the particulars of which, as they exhibit the quiet humour of the youth,
we may as well narrate. Andrew Pollok, a brother of the poet’s father, and
then, as now, tenant of North Moorhouse, had been troubled, it appears,
for some time with a pain in his back, and, complaining of it, was advised
by some of the neighbours to take the doctor’s breath on the subject.
Outdoor wark, as it so happened, was geyan thrang at the time, and it was
not convenient for the gudeman to go over to Mearns in person. As young
Robin Pollok and his cousin went daily to school at the village, however,
it was settled that they should call on the medico, and get something from
him to rub the place affected with the painful symptoms. Accordingly,
having received their instructions and a small phial to bring the desired
lotion, the two boys set out for school. Lingering at the ford, however, a
notion struck the young poet (who, by the by, had then no love for doctors
or their stuffs) that were they to fill the phial with the amber-coloured
water of the Earn, it would not only save them the trouble of going out of
their usual course, but would perhaps be as effectual a cure to uncle
Andrew’s back as anything in the shop of the village Esculapius. On
submitting the project to his equally mischievous cousin, he of course
declared it excellent, and at once agreed that it should be put in
practice. On returning from school, accordingly, the phial was filled, and
carefully corked, after which it was placed in the hands of the expectant
patient. "An’ what did the doctor say, callants, when he gied ye this?"
quoth the unsuspecting uncle. "Oh, he jist said ye were to keep your back
close to the fire, and get the balsam weel rubbit in till’t," was the
unhesitating reply. The prescription was immediately applied; and whether
from the effects of imagination, or, as is more probable, from those of
the heat and friction combined, uncle Andrew at once declared that he felt
considerably relieved. The mischievous urchins, who had been gravely
watching the operation, no sooner heard this, however, than with a glance
at each other they both burst into an uncontrollable fit of laughter, and
made with all speed for the door. Suspicion being aroused by these
circumstances, an examination of the contents of the phial was instituted,
when the trick was discovered. "Wait till I catch the young scoondrels,"
says uncle Andrew, who started up in wrath; "Lod, I’ll thraw their necks
for daurin’ to mak’ game o’ me." They were of course wise enough to keep
out of his reach while the anger continued, and, as his back was really
the better of the operation it had undergone, his temper was soon
mollified, and the "twa Rabs" were again admitted to the old man’s good
graces.
Proceeding onward, we shortly
afterwards arrive at the embouchure of the Langlee burn, a
tributary of the Earn. At Logan’s Well, a short distance farther west, the
stream whose course we have been pursuing divides into Blackloch burn and
Flock burn, its two principal sources, and loses its distinctive name. We
are now at the head of the vale, and in the very heart of the Means Moor.
Around us, on every side, a dreary expanse of brown heathy hills and dark
morasses stretches away to the horizon. Here and there a few comparatively
fertile spots enliven the waste each with a cluster of ash trees, and a
little wreath of blue smoke marking the sites of the thin strewn pastoral
farms. Yet there is a peculiar beauty in the wild landscape, all bleak and
dreary as it is. Ascending the heights of North Langlee, a quiet secluded
farm, the peeseweep flutters round our head with its plaintive cry, and
the snipe starts from our path on its tortuous flight; while at our feet
we have the meeting of the various waters which form the lovely Earn. The
Black Loch, the Flock, the Lochcraig, the Wintry Wells, and the Langlee
Burns, within the compass of a few acres, are seen turning and twining,
each in its own little vale, as they severally hasten to the congregated
stream in which they are so soon to lose their individual existence. "Frae
a' the airts the wind can blaw" they seem to gush to this lovely tryst;
and, as we gaze upon their rippled links, all glittering in the light of
the bright autumn sun, there is a pleasing harmony in the music of their
many waters. The age of kelpies is past, we fear; but were it not so, we
should almost expect to find one of these water-demons lurking among the
plashy nooks below our present position. If Dr. Jamieson’s description of
the water-kelpie is true, however, we can very well dispense with his
presence. Just fancy such a monster as the following lines depict coming
up that green dell:—
"He rushes bare, and seggs for hair
Whaur ramper-eels entwined;
Of filthy gar his eebroos war,
W' esks and horsegells lined.
‘And for his een wi’ dowie sheen,
Twa huge horse-mussels glared;
From his wide mou a torrent flew,
And soop’t his reedy beard.
"Twa slauky stanes were his spule
banes,
His brisket braid a whin;
Ilk rib aa bare a skelvie skair,
Ilk arm a monstrous fin.
"He free the wame a fish became,
Wi’ shells a’ covered ower;
And for his tail the grisly whale
Could never match its power."
A gruesome tyke, indeed, the kelpie
must have been. At Benan Linn, where we now turn, however, we meet nothing
so dreadful. A delicious little picture it is, with. its foamy fall often
feet or so, its deep dark pool below, and its fine bosky banks. Our friend
says it is just a Fall of Foyers in miniature—a statement which we can
neither controvert nor affirm, as we have never seen that most romantic of
Highland cascades. But sea! there is the water-ousel, disturbed by our
presence, flitting away down the stream. A lonely and a lovely little bird
it is, haunting such scenes as this, and seldom seen but by "untrodden
ways." Oh that we had the pencil of a Harvey, that we might delineate this
picturesque nook, and bear a reflex of its quiet loveliness to our city
home! This may not be, however, and wherefore should we repine? It is
already engraven ineffaceably on our memory, and amidst the haunts of men
and the withering cares of life, it will be to us a solace and a joy; for
true it is that
"A thing of beauty is a joy for
ever."
Turning eastward, and passing the
North and South Langlees, a brief walk brings us to South Moorhouse, the
residence during youth and the greater portion of the brief period of
manhood allotted to him on earth, of Robert Pollok. It is an ordinary
farm-steading, no way distinguishable in appearance from the other
establishments of a similar nature scattered over the moor. The buildings
are plain, one storeyed edifices, and consist of the usual "but-and-ben"
for the accommodation of the farmer’s family, with barns, byres,
milkhouses, &c. To the west of the house is a garden, screened on three
sides by a belt of trees, all planted, we understand, by the poet’s
father, with the exception of three tall ashes, which, with an elm
unfortunately blown down some years since, have stood there from time
immemorial. To these the poet in his great work makes affectionate
illusion, in the following lines:—
"Four trees I pass not by,
Which o’er our house their evening shadow threw;—
Three ash, and one of elm. Tall trees they were,
And old, and had been old a century
Before my day. None living could say aught
About their youth: but they were goodly trees;
And oft I wonder’d, as I sat and thought
Beneath their summer shade, or in the night
Of winter heard the spirits of the wind
Growling among their houchs—how they had grown
So high in such a rough tempeatuous place;
And when a hapless branch, torn by the blast,
Fell down, I mourn’d as if a friend had fallen."
It was at South Moorhouse that
The Course of Time
was written; and on expressing a desire to see the room
in which the poet sat when engaged in the work of composition, we are
considerably shocked on being shown into a place now occupied as a stable.
This in former times was the "spence;" but on a strange tenant coming to
the farm, some seven or eight years ago, he took up his residence in
another part of the establishment, and turned his horses into what had
previously been the haunt of the Muses. This is really too bad and most
certainly evinces a sad deficiency of taste somewhere. Surely such a spot,
hallowed as it is by the most interesting associations, might well have
been devoted to nobler uses. Every season the fame of Pollok attracts
numerous visitors to Moorhouse; and there is something absolutely
humiliating in the idea that the very scene which is perhaps most
intimately associated with his memory should be thus degraded. We
nevertheless linger for a considerable time within the precincts of the
apartment, picturing to ourselves the pale student over the midnight oil,
giving "a local habitation and a name" to the bright forms which his
teeming imagination so abundantly bodied forth. In this corner stood the
little table on which he wrote, and which had to be altered to suit his
sore breast, for even then death was wrestling with him. Often during the
progress of the work he required to pause from sheer fatigue or bodily
weakness, when with a sigh he would gaze out of this little window on the
silent hills, or take a short walk to a neighbouring height, to inhale the
free winds as they came fresh and cool from the bosom of his beloved Earn.
Alas! his was a melancholy fate. In the hour of hope, when fortune was
just beginning to smile upon his prospects, he was stricken down. In the
same year he was ordained to the ministry, published his great poem, and
died. The completion of his work was indeed the signal of his departure.
We may mention that some kind hand has planted an ivy at the door of the
poet’s study, and that it is creeping with its green leaves over the lowly
wall. We pull a sprig from it as a memorial of our visit, on taking leave
of the spot.
From the braes in the vicinity of
South Moorhouse an extensive and beautiful prospect of the country for
many miles around is obtained. One commanding height, called the Head of
the Moyle, brings at a glance the whole course of the Earn, from Waterfoot
to Logan’s Well, before the spectator’s eye, with North Moorhouse, the
poet’s birthplace, and South Moorhouse, the residence of his early years.
Here it was proposed to erect a monument to his memory, and certainly a
more appropriate site could not have been selected for the purpose. We
trust, for the honour of Scotland, that the scheme may be yet
accomplished. Alter lingering here for some time, we visit North Moorhouse,
the scene of the poet’s birth. It is situated on an eminence which slopes
beautifully downwards to the margin of the Earn. It is a low thatched
edifice, resembling considerably the "auld day biggin" on the banks of
Doon, where Burns made his entrée into the light of this nether
world. The farm consists of about 100 acres, and was rented by the poet’s
father from the Earl of Eglinton. Robert Pollok was born here in 1798. On
our arrival at the door we are warmly received by a couple of sagacious
collies, who are evidently not much accustomed to the visitations of
strangers, and are consequently exceedingly desirous of making an
acquaintance with our nether extremities. We keep them at bay, however,
with the aid of our trusty hazel, until a young female makes her
appearance from the interior, when we are speedily relieved from their
boisterous attentions, and at once invited to "come ben." The picture that
presents itself to our gaze on entering would delight a Landseer. The
apartment is a perfect model of the cosie auld warld Scottish fanner’s
ha’. A large fire-place projects from the wall, over which is suspended an
immense cauldron simmering on a blazing peat-fire. Around the sides and
against the rafters are hung fowling-pieces, fishing-rods, and a variety
of agricultural implements; while tables and chairs of venerable fashion
are scattered in picturesque confusion athwart the floor. Our friends the
collies—their passion having rapidly subsided—are already disposing
themselves in attitudes of gracefulness and ease in their accustomed nooks
beside the ingle, while a sedate cat is composedly washing her face in the
winnock bole.
On explaining our errand, we are
civilly requested by the girl to step into the spence, where we are shown
the "very bedstead" in which the poet was born. The chamber has been but
little altered since the event which gave to Scotland another child of
song. We need scarcely say that we inspect the place with feelings of no
ordinary description. Pollok’s Tales of the Covenanters were among
our earliest Sabbath-school prizes, and their perusal was to us a source
of deep and tearful interest. The Course of Time in after years,
despite its gloomier features, we read with anything but a limited degree
of admiration; while the sad fate of the bard, struck down in the very
noon of hope, and long ere the noon of life, lends a tragic hue to his
memory which but the more endears it to our heart. Yet somehow we cannot
associate the bard with the humble apartment of his nativity. It is too
"cabined, cribbed, confined;" and our fancy keeps wandering away to the
realms beyond the Course of Time which he has so powerfully and vividly
described, and in which alone his imagination had "ample scope and verge
enough" for its due exercise. Pollok died of consumption at Millbrook,
Southampton, in the twenty-ninth year of his age. He was buried at the
locality where he died, and the place which hew him once shall know him no
more for ever, although for his sake it will long be visited and venerated
by the pensive rambler.
Leaving Moorhouse we cross the Earn,
and proceed to Hazeldenhead, the residence of our obliging friend, Mr.
Pollok, where we are indeed most hospitably received by his good lady, and
where, after our devious pilgrimage, we certainly do ample justice to the
good things set before us. The sun is setting in the ruddy west before we
tear ourselves away, but a lippin’ "doch-an-dhoris" from the hand of our
kindly hostess sends us lightly on our homeward path; and passing by the
fine hamlet of Mearns Kirk to Clarkston and Cathcart, we arrive within the
smoky precincts of the city just as the stars are beginning to twinkle
over the darkening world below.
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