"As yet the bluebell lingers on the sod
That copes the sheepfold ring; and in the woods
A second blow of many flowers appears—
Flowers faintly tinged, and breathing no perfume.
But fruits, not blossoms, form the woodland wreath
That circles Autumn brow. The niddy haws
Now clothe the half-leaved thorn, the bramble bends
Beneath its jetty load, the hazel hangs
With auburn branches dipping in the stream,"—GRAHAM.
THE year is fast falling into the sear and yellow leaf.
Autumn has laid aside her sickle, and the golden tenants crowd the
spacious barn-yard, where smiling plenty with inverted horn bids man
expect, with satisfied complacency, the coming of the dark and stormy
winter. The happy cattle, free from the herd’s control, are out upon the
stubble-rig, browsing on the rich green undergrowth of succulent clover,
which, as every dairymaid can tell, yields the most delicious product in
the churn. What a glorious time of it, too, the wild birds have amid the
fruit-abounding woods and grain-strewn fields! The mottled throstle revels
on the red rowan tree, or amid the blushing haws; and even now the
fieldfare, from the far, far north, is hastening over land and sea to
share the plenteous banquet of the woods.. ‘A merry company, as
well as a mischievous, are the sparrows at all times and seasons; but
doubly joyous, doubly dinsome, are they now, as. in vast gregarious flocks
they haunt the unmantled fields. Larks and linnets gray and green, also
swarm upon the grateful meadows: but songless all—save that occasionally
some minstrel of the sky breaks forth into a brief chirrup that reminds us
of departed spring, and that the lintie, in its flight, gives utterance to
the rich musical titter which erst gladdened our ear amidst the yellow
broom of summer. The swallow, which knoweth its appointed hour, still
lingers, as if in love, over the breast of loch and stream, or glides in
gentlest curves around the edifice where its clay-built shed is clinging
to the eaves. Revelling in the abundance of the great mother, all things
of earth and air, indeed, from the least even unto the greatest, are
filled with cheerfulness and gratitude,—
"For wealth hangs in each tangled nook,
In the gloamin’ o’ the year."
Beautiful, indeed, and full of sweet suggestion is the
interval which comes between the close of autumn and the winter’s snell
approach. The Americans talk with rapture of their "Indian summer," but
surely its charms are not more worthy of admiration than are those of the
corresponding season in our own clime. It is a genuine September day.
During the night there has been a smart touch of frost, a foretaste faint
of what is in store for us. This morning, indeed, we can assure you
"That hedge, tower, and tree,
Sae far’s we could see,
Were white as the bloom o' the pear."
But the glorious exhalations of the dawn—as Wordsworth
might poetically have called the cranreuch—have now disappeared, and the
atmosphere is beyond comparison clear, and so bracing that one feels a
perfect exhilaration in walking. It is just the sort of day, in short, on
which we should like to master the "muckle Ben," or some kindred giant,
and place our foot triumphant on his brow. So, snaking our way through the
crowded and bustling streets of our good city, with an esteemed friend on
our arm, "a fellow of infinite jest," we soon find ourselves comfortably
seated in one of the commodious carriages of "the Edinburgh and Glasgow."
A few minutes’ waiting brings the appointed hour, when punctual as the
clock the signal is given, and behold we are in the bowels of the land,
pursuing amid darkness and din
our passage through the tunnel. This is soon over, however; and emerging
in the sunshine at Cowlairs, we are sweeping through the fine undulating
country to the north-east of Glasgow. The fields are bare, but the stubble
has a rich russet hue that is extremely refreshing to the eye; while the
deep green of the turnip patches, which every now and then flit past,
gives an agreeable variety of tint to the ever-changing scene. Now we have
a picturesque group of "potato-lifters" busily at work on the blighted
furrows, with a lengthened row of half-filled sacks behind them; again we
are rushing athwart an unreclaimed track of moorland, where the brown
heath retains its primitive sway, and peat ricks are seen at intervals;
and anon it is a snug farm-steading, with the usual bein accessories,
which for an instant courts our gaze and then is gone. Halting for a
moment at Bishopbriggs Station, we are informed by an exceedingly civil
and well-informed companion of the rail that the bishops of Glasgow, in
ancient times, held extensive landed possessions here, and that the name
of the locality was originally "Bishop’s Riggs," which appellation has
been in course of time corrupted into that by which it is at precent
known. We think the statement not at all improbable, more especially as we
subsequently discover that our informant is quite an adept in the
antiquarian line. Indeed, although he had swallowed and thoroughly
digested a whole etymological library, he could not have been more at his
ease among the jaw-breaking mysteries of Saxon, Celtic, and Danish
nomenclature. Bishopbriggs is now a village of considerable extent, but of
somewhat unprepossessing appearance, and is inhabited principally by the
lower order of Irish, who certainly do not make up for its physical
defects by any access of moral loveliness. It will be remembered that it
was at this spot that a foul murder was committed on the person of an
English ganger or overseer by two Irish labourers, during the formation of
the railway. The deed was perpetrated in the immediate vicinity of that
bridge under which we are now passing, and the wretched criminal
afterwards suffered the penalty of their dire offence within sight of the
scene.
The line now tends gradually towards
the east, through a fine fertile district of country, studded with
gentlemen’s seats, farm-steadings, and occasional coal-pits. Nothing
calling for special remark, however, occurs until we arrive at the
Kirkintilloch and Campsie Junction, when we diverge from the main trunk
towards the north. Anything approaching the character of an event is a
thing which is fortunately of extremely rare occurrence on this favourite
and beautiful line, and we are deposited all right, after a pleasant run
of some half-hour’s duration, at the Kirkintilloch Station. Here, true to
his trust, in suit of sober black, broadish-brimmed hat, and staff in
hand, is our esteemed and venerable friend, Walter Watson, the author of
"We’ve aye been provided for, and sae will we yet," "Jockie’s far awa,"
and many other lyrics which have deservedly attained extensive popularity.
[Poor old Walter, one of the best specimens of a gash, kindly-hearted
Scotsman that we have ever been privileged to meet, is now, alas, in the
place appointed for all living.] We must introduce you, gentle reader, to
the ancient bard, who, you will observe, is a gash, ‘decent-looking
specimen of the mild warld Scotsman. Walter is now on the lee side of
fourscore—the snows of time are on his well-formed head, and the furrows
of age on his expressive countenance; but there is a merry twinkle in the
old man’s eye, and a freshness in his complexion, which still indicate the
possession of considerable mental and bodily vigour, Long, long ere the
writer of this, or the vast majority of his readers had made their
entrée on the stage of life, our friend Walter was known as a sweet
singer in the land, and even until now he finds a solace in the muse. One
of the earliest songs which we remember from the lips of our mother was of
Mr. Watson’s production, and she had committed it to memory when a "wee,
wee lassie." When afterwards we learned that the author of that lay was
still in the land of the living, we could scarcely credit the fact, as we
had somehow or other associated it with a bygone age of poesy. It was not
so in reality, however, although the mistake, under the circumstances, was
natural enough. Upwards of fifty years have passed away since the song,
"We’ve aye been provided for," was given to the public, and at once became
a "household word" among the Scottish peasantry. Since that period it has
retained its popularity, and we doubt not will continue to do so.
Walter Watson was born on the brink
of poverty, and as he says himself, has "never been able to wauchle very
far up the brae." He has been a weaver, a "Scots Grey," a stone-knapper, a
sign-painter, and many a thing besides, for Walter in a strait could turn
his hand to "maistly onything;" but he was kept down throughout, like many
another honest and industrious man (and such Walter emphatically is), by
what the Scots call a sma’ family, but which an Englishman would probably
denominate a pretty large one. In the course of nature he is now drawing
near the close of his career, and amidst age and the infirmities incident
to a more than ordinarily extended span, is now earning his living on the
loom, in the village of Duntiblae, near Kirkintilloch. Yet is the old man
ever cheerful. He has many friends among his lowly compeers, and the
respect in which he is held by them has been manifested in many ways,
which must have been alike gratifying to his feelings and ameliorative of
his necessities. Let us trust that, as he has sung in the past, he may
still be enabled to say in the future,
"We’ve aye been provided for,
And see will we yet."
But here is the ancient poet (who,
by the by, is without his spectacles) on the look-out for us all this
time. "Ha, Walter! how are you? I hope
we have not kept you waiting?" "Oh, just a wee
bit blink," says the old man, warmly shaking our hand; "no worth speaking
o’; but I hope ye’re weel? and is this your frien’ (taking his band) about
whom I’ve heard you speak? Man, I’m glad to see you, and that ye’ve gotten
sic a bonny day for your bi jauntie." As we proceed into the town, which
is situated on a rising ground to the west of the station, and quite
adjacent to it, Walter informs us that he had recently been threatened "wi’
a bit touch o’ the jaundice, but was noo comin’ geyan weel roun’."
Crossing the Luggie—here a considerable stream—by a somewhat time-honoured
bridge, and taking up hill, we are soon in the heart of Kirkintilloch, and
surveying its curious avid warld aspects. The streets are narrow and
irregular, striking off here and there without harmony of design or the
least apparent regard for the rectangular. About the cross there is even a
dash of the picturesque—some of the edifices being of considerable
antiquity, and reminding us, in their positional peculiarities, of the
more antique portions of Habby Simson’s native village. Here, for
centuries, the town fairs were held; and here stood "the avid cross-stane,"
until it was overturned and destroyed, about thirty-five years ago, by
some mischievous individuals. A friend of ours remembers the venerable
octangular pillar, with its "steps and stairs," on which the younkers of
the neighbourhood loved to congregate, as their fathers of many
generations had probably done before them. The destruction of this ancient
relic, indeed, caused quite a sensation in Kirkintilloch, and William
Muir, a local poet of no mean celebrity, who seems to have sympathized
keenly in the general indignation, composed an elegy on the occasion, from
which we shall venture to transcribe the following verses, as to many of
our readers they will doubtless be as good as manuscript
"When thou was set upo’ thy feet,
To look about to ilka street,
The bodies thocht thee as complete
Frae en’ to en'
As that braw steeple every whit,
Poor auld cross-stane!
"Whar now will glowerin’ bodies stop
To learn a sale or public roup
O’ carts and harrows, growing crop?
In letters plain,
On thee they a’ were plastered up,
Poor auld cross-stane!
"Ye bailles! if ye’re worth a bubb!e,
Spare nae expense, and spare nae troub'e,
To catch the sacrilegious rabble,
An’ make them fain
Awa’ in convict ships to hobble,
Frae th’ auld cross-stand!
"War our auld daddies but to rise,
An’ see how laigh, poor thing! thou lies,
They’d curse this borough, ance, twice, thrice,
Wi’ angry grane,
Wha thus let mischief sacrifice
The auld cross-stane!"
In the vicinity of the cross is the
parish church, which was erected as a chapel to the Virgin Mary in 1644.
It is a plain but old-fashioned edifice with "craw-stepped" gables, and,
like many other things in Kirkintilloch, is somewhat eccentric in
appearance. At a considerable elevation on the edge of one of the gables
is an antique sun-dial, on which, as an old weaver who comes past as we
are inspecting it assures us, "the folk langsyne, before horologes were
sae common, could mak’ out the time o’ day to a minute." It would be no
easy matter to do this now-a-days, as the index is evidently in a "shugly"
condition. There are several other places of worship in the town, but
architecturally they are not calculated to attract the attention of the
stranger. Indeed, it must be admitted that, on the whole, Kirkintilloch
presents exceedingly few features of general interest. Near the centre of
the town there are a number of handsome shops and out-of-the-way
structures, but in the bye streets the houses are of the plainest
description, and the monotonous sound of the shuttle, which greets the-ear
at every turn, however indicative of useful industry it may be, certainly
does not tend to enhance their charms, or induce us to linger for any
lengthened period in their precincts. As in other manufacturing
communities, indeed, the population here have an intelligent and sagacious
expression of countenance, and we doubt not that, did time permit, a rich
harvest of character might be gleaned among these numerous workshops.
Kirkintilloch is situated on the
line of the ancient Roman wall close to one of the forts or peels with
which it was studded, and its name is supposed to be derived from a Celtic
word Cœrpentulach, signifying a stronghold at the end of a ridge.
Whatever we may think of the etymology, this is certainly in accordance
with the local character of the town. We now proceed to visit the Roman
Fort, the vestiges of which, at a short distance west of the town, and on
the same elevation, are still in an excellent state of preservation.
During our devious peregrinations, we have several times, (as our readers
will doubtless remember) intersected the course of the gigantic bulwark
which the self-styled masters of the world erected between the Friths of
Forth and Clyde. We have also described the present condition of a number
of the forts or stations. The Kirkintilloch peel, however, has the
peculiarity of having been the only one erected outside or to the north of
the wall which it was designed to defend. For what purpose this deviation
from the ordinary rule was made we cannot now discover, but doubtless
there were good reasons for the alteration of plan.
The fortifications here seem to have
been of extraordinary strength, although nothing remains now to indicate
the circumstance, save the fosse or ditch, which continues, after the
lapse of so many ages, to mark with great distinctness the extent and form
of the original structure. It is of an oblong quadrangular shape,
measuring 90 yards in length by 80 in breadth. A vast earthen rampart,
from 40 to 50 feet in thickness, originally surmounted the present level
platform on all sides, having in front the ditch or moat, which was not
less than 30 feet in width, with a corresponding depth. Horsley mentions
that in his time the peel presented the appearance of having been
fortified by a double wall of hewn stone; and adds that the stones had
been strongly cemented with lime, and that many of them were chequered in
the manner usual with Roman architects. All vestiges of this mason-work
have now disappeared, and save the high mound and the deep ditch, which
are covered with a dense verdure, nothing remains to indicate the previous
existence of the Roman stronghold. A well, faced with stone, however,
still occupies a portion of the fosse; and while we are lingering on the
spot, a boy from the neighbouring town comes to fill his "stoups" at the
very fountain from whence the soldiers of Antonine may have drawn the same
cool and crystal fluid nearly two thousand years ago.
As at other stations on the wall,
relics of Roman art have been found from time to time in this locality.
About fifty years since a legionary stone, measuring 5 feet in length by
about 2½ in breadth, was dug up here. At each end are carvings of
eagles’ heads and other forms of ornament, while in a central compartment
there is an inscription, which has been rendered as follows:—
"IMPERATORI CÆSARI TITO AELOI
HADRIANO,
ANTONINO AUGUSTO PlO PATRO PATRLÆ,
VRXILLATIO LEGIONIS SEXTÆ VICTRICIS,
PERFECIT PER MILLE PASSUS."
This tablet, which is broken in two,
is preserved in the Hunterian Museum. Another stone, with bulls’ heads
sculptured in bold relief, with a number of coins of Domitian, Antoninus
Pius, Commodus, and Constantine, with a number of other articles,
undoubtedly of Roman origin, were also discovered at this place, and are
now deposited in the collection of Mr. John Buchanan of this city. Many
years ago, while on this subject we may add, Mr. Stewart, proprietor of
the peel, who was then engaged in levelling a portion of the ground,
brought to light numerous remains of ancient buildings, and found among
them a large bar of lead, marked with Roman characters, which were not
sufficiently legible, however, to admit of their being deciphered. Such
blocks have been found at many other Roman stations, and there can be
little doubt that this was a relic of the proud invaders, who, thus far at
least, were for a time masters of our land.
From the summit of the peel, as from
the majority of the other Roman stations on the wall, a commanding view of
the surrounding country, with its fertile fields, its woods and waters, is
obtained. To the west are seen the sites of the various forts between this
locality and Kilpatrick; while to the east, over the town, those of
Auchindavy, Barhill, &e., are visible. North and north-west are the
towering Campsie Fells, the broad and beautiful straths of the Glazert,
and the Blane and the Kilpatrick Hills, those everlasting ramparts which
Nature seems to have reared for the defence of our country’s independence,
and from the ridges of which our rude sires looked down defiant on the
haughty imperial legions. The Roman intruder has long passed away, and
only in faint vestiges, few and far between, are his footprints now
discoverable; but the old brown hills remain, unchanged amid the ravages
of time and the elements, associated with heart-stirring memories, which,
by exciting in us an honest pride in our native land, form constant
incentives to the love of liberty. The period must never arrive when we
shall think shame to look on the face of those stern old mountains, for
the preservation of which from conquest our fathers so long and so
successfully struggled.
Returning into Kirkintilloch, we
rest our shanks for a brief space in the house of a friend, and taking
advantage of the pause, we may glance for a moment at the history of the
town. Few of our Scottish communities can boast so high an antiquity as
Kirkintilloch. From the time of the Romans it has probably continued a
place of some importance; and so early even as the year 1184 it was
erected into a burgh of barony by William the Lion. In 1195, as appears
from an ancient document, a certain William, son of Thorald, who then held
the manor of Kirkintilloch, granted the church to the monks of Cambus-Kenneth,
with half a carucate of land. Afterwards the estates passed into the
possession of the Fleming family; and in the third year of the reign of
Robert the Second, a charter, dated Arnele, 13th May, grants the "Villa de
Kerkentuloch to Gilbert Kenedy, grandson of Malcolm Fleming." James V. in
1526 "ratifies and approvis the charter of new infeftment made by our
Soverene Lord to Malcolm Lord Fleming, making the touns of Biggar and
Kerkentuloch burghis of barony, with tbe mereat dais in all punctis with
arteklis after the form and tenor of the said charter of infeftment." In
the year 1672 William Earl of Wigton erected a bridge of three arches over
the Luggie at Kirkintilloch. The new bridge was said to be "maist
necessary and useful for the saife passage of all persons who travel from
Edinbro’ and Stirling to Glasgow and Dumbarton;" and the Earl, in
consideration of his outlay, was empowered for five years to lift certain
dues on all horses and cattle which passed over the structure. In 1745 a
detachment of Highlanders, who came over the Campsie Hills by the Craw
Road, were passing quietly through Kirkintilloch to join the Chevalier,
when some person imprudently fired a gun from a barn window and killed one
of the party. This act of treachery naturally roused the ire of the Celts,
who, with drawn swords and the most horrid Gaelic imprecations, demanded
the guilty individual to be immediately given up to their vengeance. The
authorities were sadly perplexed, being quite unable to find the concealed
criminal, and a wild scene of pillage ensued. Everything portable was
taken from the houses of the devoted inhabitants, while the hungry
Highlanders lived, as the old saying has it, at "heck and manger."
Ultimately the kilted marauders were induced to depart by the receipt of a
heavy fine. Afterwards, when the Chevalier’s army was on its return from
England to the north, a rumour broke out in town that the Highlanders were
again approaching, when a scene of indescribable panic and confusion
occurred, every one making off to some place of concealment with his most
valuable goods and chattels. One old man was seen driving away his cow
with a chaff bed on its back, while others were observed with the most
incongruous burdens. Fortunately, however, the reivers did not again
appear; and when better times came the inhabitants were in the habit of
laughing at the curious incidents which occurred on the occasion of "the
false alarm."
Our course is now northward towards
Campsie, with old Walter, who "kens the road brawlie," for our guide.
"There is life in the old dog yet," and, in truth, he strikes out at a
rate which puts our vaunted pedestrian prowess fairly to the test. On our
complimenting him, however, on his agility, he modestly replies, "Na, na!
I’ve seen the day there wasna monie wha could ha’e passed me on the road,
but that was langsyne, and ye maunna gar me believe that I'm onything
extraordinar in that line noo." "By the by, Mr. Watson," interposes our
friend, "what old edifice is that to the left? It has really quite an
interesting appearance." "Weel, I’ll no say that it hasna," quoth the old
man pawkily, "but it’s jist an auld washin’-house for a’ that !" Of course
we look perfectly unconscious, and there is silence on the road for at
least five minutes. It is interrupted by old Walter, however, on our
arrival at a bridge, where for a few moments we come to a pause. "This is
the Kelvin," he remarked, "and if you’ll cast your een doon the water a
wee bit you’ll see its meeting wi’ the Luggie. They’re baith geyan grumlie
the noo wi’ the steepin’ o’ the lint; but they’re twa bonnie waters for a’
that—at least they aye seem sae to my auld een."
Following with our eyes the
direction of our venerable guide, we see the junction of the Luggie and
the Kelvin, about a quarter of a mile to the westward of the bridge on
which we are now standing. It is certainly one of the tamest
water-weddings which we have ever been privileged to witness. The hymeneal
scene is a level plain, somewhat English in its character, and only
redeemed from dullness by the heights of Kirkintilloch, which, with their
steeples and houses, really look exceedingly well in the middle distance.
Both streams are here grim, sluggish, and melancholy - moving as if they
had each the most serious objections to the impending union. "The course
of true love never does run smooth" it is said, but here the current is
placid as can be. Of course the inference is obvious and we could almost
fancy that this ominous "meeting of the waters" is a fit type of those
cold, loveless marriages, which rank and wealth too often make, but that
we have an affection for the Kelvin, and know that after the honeymoon is
over, he and his mate, "dark but comely," will wax right merry, and dance
away through a certain classic grove as if they had never known what it
was to be sad. Old Walter, too, will have it that the Luggie is at heart a
cheerful stream, and says that in the vicinity of his home it is both
romantic and beautiful. "Sae, come awa’ lads," he continues, setting down
his staff, "and as we move alang I’ll even fry to lilt ye a wee bit sang
which I made shortsyne in its praise." We resume our walk accordingly; and
as we thread the hedge-bordered way, half-screened by over-hanging trees,
the old bard in a low yet musical voice, croons the following sweet little
lyric:—
"LUGGIE-SIDE
"Oh lanely and laigh runs the stream
of the Luggie,
Aye boring through glens as it wimples alang,
Whar aft on the hazel, or slaethorn sae scroggie,
The bonnie gray lintie sits liltin’ his sang.
The bricht-speekled trout haunts the water o’ Luggie,
The fringe on her lip gives him covert to hide,
And gloamin' gets lovers. fu’ blythsome and vogie,
To whisper their feelings on sweet Luggie-side.
"The lass that I love has her hame by
the Luggie,
She’s bonnie and sweet as a lassie can be,
And though her dark e’e has a glance o’ the roguy.
I aye think her bosom is faithfu’ to me.
Our tryst ‘s coming on, when I'll meet wi’ my dearie,
And on the green bank mak’ a seat o’ my plaid;
We'll no think it lang till we hear chanticleerie
Loud warning us hameward frae sweet Luggie-side.
"I maunna be lang till we’re staying
thegither—
Our meeting’s a pleasure, our parting’s a pain,
And were she to lea’ me and gang wi' anither,
I’d ne'er hae a meeting wi' pleasure again;
Gae wimplin’ awa’ to the Kelvin, wee Luggie,
And lose yoursels baith in the proud river Clyde,
I’ll bode for a hame and haudin’ fu’ snug, aye
To share wi’ my lassie on sweet Luggie-side."
The voice of the singer thus dies
away, and is of course echoed by "a very good song, and very well sung,"
from his delighted hearers. Yet are our words of praise anything but of
the warmest. We never could administer the highly-spiced compliment face
to face. Nay, we are apt to doubt the sincerity of the man who can do it.
Speak as little ill as possible of a person behind his back, and no more
good of him than is absolutely necessary in his presence.
But hark! the robin takes up the
strain. Yonder he is, perched upon the topmost bough of that tall ash, his
breast almost like a withered leaf fluttering in the soft breeze of song.
We have praised thee to thy face, sweet minstrel of the autumnal woods,
and shall again and again. We love thee wisely but not too well, and it is
"cut of the fullness of the heart that the mouth speaketh." Thou art a
type of the true poet, even of him who "crooneth to himsel’" amid poverty,
and want, and toil. Other birds require the sunshine and the flower to
wake their musical utterances, but the drifting flake and the arrow hail
stay not thy song. Thou art, therefore, the image unto our fancy of such
bards as the old man now by our side (but who knoweth not our secret
communings with thee); and thou art at the same time the image of a class,
at the birthplace of a humble member of which we are now arrived; and
therefore, for the present, sweet bird, we bid thee once again farewell!
Birdston is a tiny little village or
hamlet pleasantly situated about half-way between Kirkintilloch and
Campsie. It consists of a small congregation of farm-houses and cottages,
intermingled with kail-yards, barn-yards, trees, and hedgerows. The
September sun smiles sweetly on it now, with its blue curling wreaths of
smoke, its fresh yellow stacks of newly-gathered corn, and its groups of
rosy-checked bairns. There are flocks of poultry straying among the
stubble; flocks of pigeons, white and blue, cleaving the air, or settling
on the house-tops; and flocks of swallows far over head, sporting in the
clear azure sky. Is it not in truth a pleasant spot? Well, it was down
this quiet little lane, in that cleanly little cot, in this tidy little
town, that William Muir, commonly called the Campsie poet, first saw the
light, on the 28th of November, 1766; and it was from that door, after a
singularly uneventful life of fifty-one years, that he was finally carried
to his other home, in the clachan kirk-yard,—.
"Full many a flower is born to blush
unseen."
And it is very probable, gentle
reader! that thou hast never previously heard so much even as his name.
Nor, after all, does it matter very much. Yet William Muir wrote many
poems—some good, a few bad, according to our view, and very many
indifferent Probably a modern critic, who judges only by rule, might find
very few of them altogether faultless. Amid the chaff, however, there is a
considerable amount of good seed. Muir was a working man, and the
composition of poetry was the solace of his leisure hours. It interfered
not with his industry, and we doubt not it proved unto him, as to bards of
more elevated capacities, "its own exceeding great reward." But it did
even more than this: his poetry gave pleasure, and still gives pleasure to
his rustic compeers; and, along with his amiability of character, it
gained him the warm and lasting friendship of many estimable individuals
in his own rank of life. Upwards of thirty years have elapsed since his
decease; and we have been both astonished and gratified to find that his
memory is still fondly cherished in many bosoms. That he is still best
beloved by those who knew him best in life, is the most satisfactory
testimony to his worth as a man which can be mentioned over his grave; and
that such is indeed the case, we have many reasons for believing. Peace to
his ashes! He was one of a class of poets which is almost peculiar to
Scotland—a class of which any country might well be proud.
The poems of William Muir were
published in 1818—the year subsequent to his decease—with an introduction
and a brief memoir of the author from the pen of John Struthers, himself a
poet of no mean repute. The contents of the volume, which must now have
been long out of print, are of a somewhat miscellaneous description, and
embrace a considerable variety and range of topics. Some of the subjects,
indeed, might have been à priori supposed beneath or beyond the
reach of the muse. Swift boasted that he could write an instructive essay
on a broomstick; but that is an intellectual feat which certainly cannot
for a moment be compared with the composition of a poetical address "To a
Rusty Nail." This the genius of Muir actually accomplished; and many of
his productions besides are on equally incongruous and impracticable
themes,—as, for instance " To my Auld Bachles," "Verses on a Weasel," "The
humble Petition of an old Family Clock," "A hymn to the Herring," and
(evil to him that evil thinks) "An Ode to the Itch!" Unpromising as they
may seem, there are some of these subjects treated with considerable
happiness and tact The muse may even handle pitch and not be defiled. Let
us hear, in testimony of this truth, a portion of Muir’s hymn to the
inimitable "Glasgow Magistrate,"—
"First of fishes! unto thee
A grateful hymn I'll sing;
For seldom am I doom’d to see
A fatten’d ox’s wing.
A bleater’s limb ne’er on the spit
Is seen to pipe and fry;
But thee, dear fish, I’m proud to meet,
And on a brander spy.
"On thee, when hunger’s calls assail,
In solitude I feed.
With simple water from the pail,
And simple barley-bread.
When thou arriv’st, but newly caught,
Fresh from the briny wave,
And richly nice and cheaply bought,
Oh, what a feast I have!
"Or, if preserved in native salt
thou grace my humble board,
And season’d with the juice of malt,
I think myself a lord.
In all thy various shapes and forms,
Thy friendship I Invite—
Fresh, set, or red, when most thou charms
The Welshman’s appetite.
"For luxury is but a cheat,
With wealth’s high-flavou'd spice;
Dame Nature asks but simple meat,
‘Tis habit calls for nice,
His palate that will reckon thee
An insult to his taste,
Will still a wretched mortal be
With puddings, ples, and paste."
The majority of Muir’s productions,
however, are of a serious and sentimental cast; many of them also are
deeply tinged with despondency. Occasionally, as in the above verses,
indeed, we find him cheerful and contented with his humble lot, snapping
his fingers in the face of saucy Fortune, and defying her to cast him
down; but more frequently he is disconsolate and murmuring. Altogether, we
consider the book a true reflex of the author’s mind, and feel persuaded
that its lights and shadows are truthful depictions of those which in life
darkened or illumined the lowly destiny of the man.
We are now entering the beautiful
valley of Campsie. The bold brown range of hills on our right seems as if
it were approaching nearer and more near unto us. How sharply and
distinctly is its picturesque altitudinal outline defined against the dark
blue dome of day! Every sear and wrinkle on the rugged brae-face, too, is
plainly seen, although the white torrent threads of winter are not yet.
Even at this distance we could read a geological lesson, or find a sermon
in stone, were we so inclined, in those lofty and well-marked terraces of
trap. There are scientific stone-knappers in abundance about Campsie,
however, to whom every nook and cranny of these fells is familiar as a
long-trodden path, and meanwhile we will not poach on their manor. Let
them "drill and bore the earth" as best they may, our game at present lies
on the surface. And see, how beautifully intermingled are the lights and
shades on the bosom of the everlasting hills! The landscape is steeped in
golden radiance. The day is even like unto that which the old poet has
described as
"The bridal of the earth and sky;"
but "the summer has its passing
cloud," and there are deep umbral masses of gloom flitting silent and slow
over the crags, and passing ever and ever away. Now the sunbeams are
sleeping on the heath,
"Like ravelled golden hair;"
anon the cloud-shadow steals over
the spot, like a vast stain; and when we lift up our eyes again, behold
the place which knew it once shall know it no more for ever. How full of
meaning are the shows and forms of nature! Readest thou not thy own
destiny, O man! in the living page before thee? We come like shadows, so
depart; and this chase of sunshine and cloud is but a type of that which
joy and sorrow, pleasure and pain, are ever pursuing in the world which
passeth show within our own bosoms. Art thou in the sun? then bethink thee
of the coming shade,
"With a hey ho, the wind and the
rain!"
Is thy present lot in gloom? fear
not that it will be always so—"joy treadeth on the heels of grief;" and as
old Walter has hopefully said,
"when we fell we aye got up again,
And sae will we yet."
Pursuing our course we soon arrive
at the village of Milton. The Glazert, in a wild rocky channel, fretted by
the floods of ages, here passes athwart the road, and is spanned by a
substantial bridge. Kincaid printworks are in the vicinity of the village,
and the streamlet is discoloured considerably by the chemical matters
thrown out here as well as at Lennoxtown. But what of that? we love our
own kind better than the kelpies; and when we look around at the
comfortable population teeming in the vale, we should reckon ourselves the
merest nincompoop if we uttered the faintest possible sigh over the decay
of the picturesque. A pleasant little village seems Milton, as we glance
at it en peasant, which is all that we can do, having still a
considerable portion of our day’s work before us, and digression is "the
sin which doth most easily beset us."
At the base of the Campsie Fells, a
short distance north of Glorat House (the seat of the ancient family of
Stirling) which is situated to our right amidst its finely timbered
policies, are the vestiges of two Caledonian forts. These interesting
relics of a long-vanished past are both circular in form, one of them
being about 100 yards, and the other about 20 yards in diameter. In a
direct line these ancient strongholds are nearly two miles distant from
the wall of Antonine, and it has been supposed that they were erected by
the Caledonians for the purpose of checking the farther progress of the
Roman legions. Our antiquarian friend of the rail, to whom we have
previously alluded, scouted, however, this supposition, and said that the
conquerors would never have permitted the natives to erect such places of
strength so near to their frontier. His opinion was that they were Roman
outposts, for the defence of foraging parties when they had occasion to
ravage the enemy’s territory. On this point we are inclined to differ from
him. The very erection of the wall was an acknowledgment of weakness.
"hitherto they could come, but no farther;" and we believe, besides, that
they had enough to do in defending their acquisitions up to that line,
without venturing to make incursions beyond it. But in addition to this,
it is well known that the forts of the Romans were uniformly constructed
of a quadrangular shape, while those of the Britons, there is every reason
to believe, were always of a circular form. It does not necessarily
follow, besides, that these places of strength were actually erected at
all during the period of the Roman invasion, or with reference to it. From
recent archaeological discoveries, indeed, it is rendered exceedingly
probable that they are of an age long anterior to the occurrence of that
event. It has hitherto been too much the fashion with antiquaries to
ascribe everything prehistoric to the Druids or the Romans, forgetting
that the country was inhabited long previously to the advent of either,
and that the aborigines may also have left their "footprints on the sands
of time."
The valley or strath of Campsie
possesses many features of the most romantic beauty. It is bounded on the
north by the towering and rugged Campsie fells, which rise to an elevation
of about 1,500 feet above the level of the sea; and on the south by a
gently swelling and fertile ridge, called the South Brae, which in some
places attains an altitude of nearly 700 feet. At the west end, towards
the opening of Strathblane, the vale is only about half-a-mile in width;
but gradually, as it unfolds itself towards the east, it waxes broader and
more broad, until it is lost in the spacious plains around and beyond
Kirkintilloch. The bosom of the valley is of the most undulating
description; now rising into gentle knolls covered with verdure, or plumed
with patches and belts of timber; now sinking into water-worn hollows and
dells,
"wi’ the burn stealing wider the lang
yellow broom,"
and anon spreading out into fertile
meads and sunny slopes, where the cattle in straggling groups are
pasturing on the stubbled furrows, or lazily chewing the cud. At various
points the seats of the gentry are seen peering above their girdles of
foliage, as if keeping "watch and ward" over the scattered farms, which
are strewn irregularly here and there, each with its yellow cluster of
corn-stacks, its thin clump of ash-trees, and its little curling cloud of
blue smoke. The strath, altogether, has a cosie and secluded aspect, which
is rendered all the more pleasing by the contrast which its quiet beauty
offers to the stern and hoary grandeur of its wild battlement of fells,
with their precipitous and scarred sides, their jutting crags, and
seemingly tumultuous though still and silent torrents of debris.
The signification of the word
Campsie has been a puzzle to the etymologists. "Even ministers they ha’e
been kenned" to arrive at very different conclusions on this interesting
subject. Mr. Lapslie, a former well-known incumbent of the parish, for
instance, asserted that the name has been derived from a combination of
Celtic words, signifying a crooked strath; while Dr. M’Leod, formerly of
Campsie, and now of St. Columba’s Church in this city, as positively
asseverates that it means "a church in the bosom of a hill." Who shall
presume to decide when doctors differ? Another doctor? Well, then, we have
Dr. Lee, a third incumbent of the parish, who adheres to Mr. Lapslie’s
version because, as he says, it is certainly descriptive of the locality,
and appears to have existed before any church was erected in this place.
We do not know how Dr. Lee became aware of the latter fact, as he has
advanced no evidence on the point; but this we know, that Dr. M’Leod is
one of the best Gaelic scholars in the country, and on such a subject we
should be inclined to back him against any Sassenach from Maiden-kirk to
the Lennox. Grant the correctness of his etimological deduction, and we
shall have no difficulty in supposing a church long prior to the first of
which Dr. Lee has any account. Judging from his name, we should suppose
the present excellent minister, Mr. Munro, to be of Celtic origin, and we
should like to hear what construction he puts on the disputed word. Has he
a theory of his own? or does he treat such subjects with the contempt of
our old friend, Walter, who, in reference to the dispute in question,
exclaimed, "Hoot, awa’ man, there’s nane o’ them kens aucht about it mair
than you, au’ me. Sic menseless discussions aye mind me o’ the auld rhyme,
"'Mickle din, an’ Uttle woo,
Quo’ the Deil when he clippet the soo."
Lennoxtown, which may be called the
capital of the strath, is an extensive village of modern erection, and has
been in a great measure dependent for its growth and prosperity on the
various print-works, bleachfields, and factories in the vicinity. It
consists principally of one street, which is of considerable extent, with
a few irregular offshoots and detached cottages. The houses are for the
most part plain and of two storeys, without the slightest pretensions to
architectural beauty. Cleanly, comfortable, and withal commonplace in
aspect, Lennoxtown, apart from the splendid scenery in its neighbourhood,
presents but few attractions to the visitor. The only structure, indeed,
of an imposing appearance is the parish church, a spacious modern Gothic
building, with a handsome square tower, erected in 1829. It is finely
situated on a gentle but commanding elevation a little to the northward of
the main street, where it forms a pleasing feature in the landscape of the
vale. Besides this, there are other two places of worship in the village,
viz., a United Presbyterian meeting-house, and a Roman Catholic chapel.
The religious character of the population, it would thus appear, is not
likely to suffer from a deficiency of church accommodation. For the
educational requirements of the rising generation, Lennoxtown, we
understand, also possesses an abundant provision. It has likewise an
excellent, and as we were gratified to learn, flourishing Mechanics’
Institution, for the intellectual improvement of adults, by means of
lectures on science, books, periodicals, &c.
Being abundantly supplied with coal
and other minerals, and water, Campsie seems to have been designed by
nature, as a commercial gentleman once remarked of another locality, to be
the seat of manufactures. As if in furtherance of this intention of the
great mother, we accordingly find that it contains a considerable number
of public works of various kinds. The most extensive of these is Lennox
mill print-works, which are situated on the Glazert, immediately adjacent
to the village. These were originally established in 1786 on a small
scale. In 1805 they came into the hands of Messrs. R. Dalglish, Falconer,
& Co., the present enterprising proprietors, under whom they have
gradually flourished and extended, until now they have attained the most
gigantic proportions, employ an immense number of hands, and produce the
most amazing quantities of printed calico. Talk of your feudal barons with
their multitudinous retainers! How one of these old iron-coated gentlemen
would stare, could he he brought back to witness the "skailing" of Messrs.
Dalglish & Co.’s populous works. Kincaid-field and Lilyburn-field also
employ numerous workers, and contribute materially to the prosperity of
the parish, which is further increased by the extensive chemical works of
Messrs. M’Intosh & Co., established in 1806, and also by several
bleachworks situated along the winding course of the limpid Glazert.
Formerly a considerable number of weavers resided in Lennoxtown and its
vicinity, but of late years they have become almost an extinct species,
while the monotonous music of the shuttle is now seldom heard. This is a
consummation, however, which, all things considered, there is but little
reason for the philanthropist to regret.
With an accession of two to the
number of our party— one a veteran in the ranks of reform, a pioneer when
Liberalism was anything but a joke, the other a genial and an intelligent
young friend—we now bid Lennoxtown for a time adieu, and proceed by an
exceedingly pleasant path towards the western termination of the strath.
The sun, in a sky of deepest azure, has crossed by a couple of degrees at
least his highest altitude, and is wending slowly down the golden
afternoon. Warmed by his mellow radiance, a smile is flickering even on
the face of the grim and wrinkled fells which tower majestically to our
right, as if the proud and stern-featured old giants were contemplating
with pleasure the sweet and silent vale recumbent at their feet. Silent,
did we say? then were we in error, for is not the murmur of the playful
Glazert even now in our ears, as, under the trembling shadows of her
sheltering trees, she steals in fairy links along. Now we have a glance of
her rippled breast, while she jinks among her channel-stones as if in
play; and anon how demure she seems in this dim recess, where she lingers,
a "sleeping beauty," with all her glittering beads of foam upon her dark
brown breast. How the leaves and flowers are bending over her, as if in
love; while one bold brier, be-gemmed with blushing berries, stretches
forth his fruited arms as if he fain would clasp her in one long embrace,
yet fears to make the attempt! "I’m sayin’, frien’," quoth a voice at our
side, "if ye stan’ glow’ring there at naething that way, I rather think
ye’ll no win up the glen afore the gloamin’, sae I fancy we had better be
gaun." With a half-muttered apology for our dilatoriness, we accordingly
proceed.
The South Brae now begins to clothe
itself in a dense mantle of foliage. Nor is its vesture by any means "scrimpit,"
for acres and acres in richly tinted masses are waving in the breeze
around its gaucy breast; and see, rising proudly over the far rustling sea
of living green are the lofty turrets of a stately edifice. That is Lennox
Castle, the seat of John L. Kincaid Lennox, Esq., proprietor of extensive
estates in the parish of Campsie, and the lineal representative of the
three ancient families of Woodhead, Kincaid, and Antermony. He is likewise
said to be the legitimate heir to the Lennox peerage. This is a subject,
however, on which our limited genealogical knowledge forbids us to
descant. The magnificent structure before us, it will be observed, is in
the boldest style of Norman architecture, and we may mention that it is
after a design by Mr David Hamilton of Glasgow. Its erection was commenced
In 1837 and completed in 1841. The site, which is in the immediate
vicinity of the spot where formerly stood the old house of Woodhead, is
nearly 500 feet above the level of the adjoining valley, of which the
castle commands an extensive and picturesque prospect, and to which it
communicates a striking feature of architectural beauty. Near the entrance
to the spacious policies, and within their bounds, the Glazert winds
gracefully through a sweet sylvan portion of its course, and receives two
tributary streamlets in its bosom. One of these is the Pu’, a somewhat
sluggish burn which flows from the south-west along the base of the South
Brae, and the Finglen Burn, which comes dancing merrily from the
northwest. The meeting of the waters is seen to great advantage from an
elegant little bridge a few yards within the gateway, where we linger a
few moments to feast our eyes upon the quiet loveliness of the scene. Our
contemplations are broken, however, by the sound of approaching hoofs, and
glancing round we perceive two ladies on horseback cantering gaily past,
with their light veils and gracefully flowing robes floating on the
breeze. They form quite a delicious picture, when taken in connection with
the surrounding accessories of woodland glade, verdant lawn, and proud
baronial towers. "Thae’s the leddies o’ the castle," says one of our
friends, when they are fairly past; "and gude leddies they are, tae," he
continued. "Lod, man, they had a’ the Sabbath-schule weans o’ Campsie up
at the castle the ither week, and gied them sic a treat as some o’ the
puir things never saw before. Nane o’ your shabby affairs, but just as
mickle as the wee creatures could set their faces tae. That’s what I ca’
being leddie-like." Having given a hearty assent to the concluding
proposition of our friend, accompanied by the expression of a wish that
such kindly and considerate condescension were a little more common, we
again resume our walk.
A great gap now appears in the lofty
fells to the north, the vast sides of which slope steeply down to a dark
and narrow ravine, which forms the far-famed Campsie Glen. Round the
eastern shoulder of this magnificent opening in the lofty ridge, twines
the "Craw Road," faintly discernible from our present position; while on
the pinnacle of the height, a little projecting heap is seen in relief
against the sky. This we know to be "Crichton’s Cairn," from having long
ago speeled to its summit for the purpose of enjoying the extensive and
beautiful prospect which it commands. The majority of cairns have a myth
or two attached to them, but no one with which we are acquainted seems to
be so liberally provided for in this respect as the specimen before us.
Every individual almost to whom we spoke on the subject gave us a
different version of the originating affair. According to one, the cairn
was erected in memory of a kind of local Hercules named Crichton, who
having undertaken for a wager to carry a load of meal to the hill-top, by
dint of great exertion accomplished the feat, but fell down dead
immediately thereafter; another would have it that Crichton was a famous
smuggler, who was overtaken and killed by guagers on the elevated spot
alluded to, and that the cairn was raised to perpetuate remembrance of the
bloody deed; while a third asserted, without a moment’s hesitation, that
the identical Crichton had committed suicide, by hanging himself on that
lone peak. The latter, it must be admitted, is the most marvellous story
of all; for unless an individual about to "lay hands upon himself;" in
such a "heaven-kissing" locality, could manage to fling a coil over the
horn of the moon, we really cannot see how this horrid purpose could be at
all effected, a blaeberry-bush being the nearest approximation to a tree
which he would be likely to find. Our friend Walter’s story seems the most
feasible. It is as follows:—"The way that I’ve aye heard it explained was
this: There was ance a minister in the parish, a won’erfu’ strong man,
that they ca’d Crichton, that could walk, eatin’ a pease-bannock a’ the
time, frae the manse at the Clachan to the tap o’ the hill in twenty
minutes. Noo, it’ll tak’ an or’nar body near the double o’ that time. And
the minister-was sae proud o’ his speelin’ poo’rs that he used often to
gang up and study his sermons there; and as he was weel liket by a’body,
when he dee’t the folk bigget the calm and ca’d it after him. That’s the
way I’ve aye heard it accounted for; but whether it’s true or no, I’m sure
I dinna ken." In corroboration of this statement, we may mention that a
minister named James Crichton was inducted into the parish of Campsie on
the 23d of April, 1623. If this was the individual alluded to, however,
his elevated study does not seem to have been productive of good fruit, as
he was subsequently deposed for what was called "corrupt doctrine."
The clachan of Campsie, at which we
now arrive, is about a mile and a-half distant, in a westerly direction,
from Lennoxtown, and lies in a romantic situation at the embouchure
of the Kirkton or Clachan Glen, of which it commands a beautiful and
highly suggestive prospect. The clachan consists of a tiny congregation of
houses, principally cottages, straggling as it were "at their own free
will," and finely interspersed with gardens, trees, and hedgerows. A cosie
looking edifice, begirt with foliage, flowers, and fruit, is pointed out
to us as the manse, and truly it seems, in the words of the old rhyme, "a
pleasant habitation." But even the very humblest of the biggins has an air
of beinness and comfort which is pleasing to contemplate; while the blue
wreaths of smoke from each "lum-head" are seen in fine relief against the
green bosom of the glen, which rises in bosky magnificence beyond. This
handsome white house, which seems to look a welcome as we approach, is the
clachan inn, where "man and beast," as the old signboards have it, may
find abundant provender, with all the means and appliances of creature
comforts, on the usual terms of course—of
"Drink, pilgrim, drink—drink and
pay."
A decent and a civil old gentleman
withal is the landlord, Mr. Muir, who is, besides, one of the few
remaining contemporaries and early acquaintances of Robert Burns. Mr. Muir
was born and "brought up" on the farm adjoining Mossgiel, when it was
tenanted by the Burns family; and although he has no special tale to tell
regarding the ploughman poet, who was then a young man, he remembers
seeing him at his daily work in the fields, and occasionally he sat at the
same bleezing fireside with him in the winter evenings. It is something
even to have rubbed sleeves with Burns. The landlady, too, is a douce,
motherly looking woman, and the daughter an elegant and intelligent young
lady; so that he mast be a particularly fastidious traveller indeed who
could not "take his ease" in the clachan inn.
But we are rather forestalling; for
with a taste peculiar, we fancy, to ourselves, we generally, unless
specially thirsty, visit the church-yard of a place before either inn or
ale house. We accordingly pass Mr. Muir’s hospitable door, and first seek
the adjoining field of graves. The gate is locked, however, and we must
wait for a minute till a deputation, composed of our venerable Lennoxtown
friend and old Walter, proceeds to a neighbouring cottage in search of the
sexton. The man of spades is not to be found; but in his stead we are
speedily introduced to the "second grave-digger," who is well known in the
locality as "David the Earl," and who approaches, key in hand, laughing
and fidgin’ fain, in anticipation of the dram which he is about to earn.
Davie is a stout robust specimen of the genus homo, clad in
clay-browned moleskin trousers and jacket, with a broad Kilmarnock bonnet
overhanging his tanned features. Poor fellow! his intellect is far, far
below the ordinary level of humanity; his lack-lustre eye and frequent
gusts of unmeaning laughter indicating but too plainly the fearful vacuity
within. "You’ll let these gentlemen see the kirkyard, Davie," says one of
our friends, as they drew near the gate where we are standing. "Ay wulla,
ay wulla," is the instant reply, in a quick, eager kind of voice; "but
wull they gi’e me a dram, dae ye think? wull they gi’e me a dram?" Being
assured that all is right on this point, Davie bursts into one of those
curious, arid cachinnations which seem to follow every sentence he utters,
and at once ushers us into the church-yard.
A lovely spot, indeed, is that in
which the Campsie dead are laid. It is enclosed by an irregular
up-and-down kind of dike, which accommodates itself to the inequalities of
the ground.. One corner of the spacious enclosure is occupied by the
ruined belfry and a portion of the walls of the old clachan church,
forming a prominent feature in the scene which meets our gaze. In the
foreground, as we enter, are seen the green undulations of long-departed
humanity, intermingled with the red graves of those who have recently
passed the dark bourne; while headstones and monumental tablets of varied
form and size—some old and moss-grown, some fresh from the chisel—are
strewn over and around the area of death in picturesque confusion. Stately
trees, not yet in the sear and yellow leaf, but clad in the dark garniture
of mid autumn, like sylvan mourners, stand rustling around; while sternly,
beyond and above all, rise the swelling sides of the glen—the everlasting
hills echoing and re-echoing the voices of many waters.
The literature of the church-yard
has always presented a dreary charm to our mind. If there are
sermons in stones, those of the grave are certainly the most touching and
pathetic. There are no lessons that find their way so directly to the
heart as those which are inscribed on the cold roof of that narrow house
into the silent chambers of which we must all descend. The clachan kirk-yard
is peculiarly rich in this melancholy lore; and we immediately proceed to
scan a few of its more prominent pages. Here lies Bell of Antermony, one
who travelled in many lands, and returned to rest in the dust of his
native parish. There are laid the remains of an individual who sacrificed
his life at the call of duty,—one of that noble band who died, in dark and
troublous times, to purchase the religious freedom of their native land.
Let us read the inscription on the "martyr’s grave ;"it contains all that
we know of his sad story:—
"ERECTED IN MEMORY OF
WILLIAM BOICK,
WHO SUFFERED AT GLASGOW,
JUNE XIV., MDCLXXXIII.,
For his adherence to the Word of God,
and Scotland’s Covenanted
Work of Reformation.
Underneath this stone doth lie
Dust sacrificed to tyranny,
Yet precious in Immanuel’s sight,
Since martyr’d for his kingly right.
Rev. chap. vii., verse 14."
Honour to the memory of the
Christian hero! and may Scotland always find such in her hour of need!
Passing over the intervening mounds, we find a weatherworn stone, fringed
and partially veiled by the long grass, which, after brushing the
encroaching verdure aside, we find to bear the following inscription :.—
"This is the burial-place of the
Rev. Mr. John Collins. He was admitted minister of Campsie the 2d of
November. 1641, and the tradition is, that he was murdered in returning
from Glasgow about Martinmas, 1648."
Thereby hangs a tale, which, from
tradition, we may condense thus:—Mr. Collins, minister of Campsie, during
the period indicated on his gravestone, had a beautiful and a virtuous
wife, the pride of his heart and the light of his home. The laird of
Balglass, a small estate in the neighbourhood, conceived a guilty passion
for the minister’s fair lady; but knowing from her spotless character,
that he had no chance of obtaining her affections while her husband lived,
he, with the view of obtaining the gratification of his desires, resolved
by violence to shorten the days of his unsuspecting pastor. Accordingly,
when Mr. Collins was returning in the dark from a meeting of Presbytery at
Glasgow, about Martinmas, 1648, he was attacked by Balglass at a place
called "Lodgemyloons," near the outskirts of the city, and basely
murdered. The body of the minister was found next day and conveyed home,
when it was discovered that he had also been robbed of his watch and a
small sum of money—a circumstance which tended to mislead the authorities
into the belief that the crime bad been committed by ordinary highwaymen.
No suspicion fell on Balglass; and when some months of mourning had
elapsed, he appeared, without exciting remark, as suitor for the hand of
the beauteous widow. Ultimately, too, he gained her consent to the union,
and after a decent interval they were married—whether happily or not we
cannot tell; but the murderer and the innocent cause of his guilt lived
thereafter for several years as man and wife. At length the lady, on
entering a private room unexpectedly one day, discovered Balglass sitting
at a table, on which lay a watch, which she immediately knew to be that of
her deceased husband. The fatal truth flashed on her mind as she saw him
attempting to hide the evidence of his guilt, and she bitterly accused him
on the spot of having murdered the object of her early love. The wretched
criminal, conscience-stricken, it is said, answered not a word, but
rushing from the apartment, left the house, and was. "never heard of
more."
While one of our Campsie friends,
with suitable gravity of face and voice, furnishes us with the particulars
we have thus briefly narrated, we form rather a curious group around the
murdered minister’s grave. Sitting on a tombstone, paper and pencil in
hand, is your humble servant; at our side, and evidently grueing at the
contemplation of the bloody deed and its sad consequents, is our facetious
friend, all traces of humour banished from his expressive face; leaning on
his staff, and scanning the inscription at his feet, stands old Walter,
with our second Campsie friend erect beyond him; while Davie, bolt upright
at the head of the grave, casts many a longing eye towards the inn, and
every now and then rubbing his hands as if in enjoyment, interrupts the
speaker with his eldritch laugh, which forms a strange incongruous
accompaniment to the tragic narrative. "There’s the banes o’ a gude story
there," quoth old Walter when the speaker had concluded. ‘And the
materials of a good picture," adds another. "But wulla get a dram, div ye
think?" chimes in the poor idiot, waxing impatient, and again breaking
into his characteristic giggle.
There are many curiously-carved old
stones in the clachan kirk-yard, which would amply repay a leisurely
inspection to any one who possesses, even in a slight degree, the tastes
of Old Mortality, but time and space would fail us, were we to attempt at
present to describe a tithe of them. One further specimen only we shall
notice. It is one of a pair erected to the memory of individuals belonging
to the ancient family of Kincaid. This stone is in excellent preservation
considering its age. It is a quadrangular slab, the central portions of
which are occupied by the armorial bearings and quarterings of the family,
while around the edges is the following inscription:—" Heir lyis ane
Honour-able man James Kinkaid of that ilk quha Desisit ye 9 of Janvar anno
1606:’ The other stone is almost a fac-simile of this, but, of course, is
to the memory of another personage of the same family. A few yards from
these stones, and nearer the centre of the ground, is the grave of William
Muir, the Campsie poet, without the slightest memorial to mark his
"whereabouts." We have heard, however, that a subscription is at present
in progress, and we trust that a sum sufficient to erect a decent tablet
to his memory may ere long be procured. The working men of Campsie do not
lack spirit, and we have little doubt that they will cheerfully respond to
an appeal in honour of one who was during life an honour to their class.’
The auld kirk, as we have already
stated, is now a complete ruin. One gable, containing the belfry, and a
portion of the side wall, are all that now remain of the edifice. It has
been originally, however, of the most diminutive proportions and the
plainest style of church architecture. The beautiful situation in which it
is placed, and the interesting associations with which it is entwined,
alone render it attractive to the visitor. An old bell suspended in the
belfry is only tolled when funerals are taking place in the adjacent
ground. "Let the gentlemen hear the bell, Davie," says one of our party,
to try the fidelity of our unfortunate companion. "Na, na," he replied,
"there’s nae burial." Nor could even a promise of the coveted dram bribe
him from what he considered his duty. Poor Davie! we have known men with
many, many talents as compared with thee, who could not have resisted
that bribe.
Leaving the kirk-yard, and having
persuaded our senior friends to seek the hospitable shelter of the inn
until our return, and having given them strong injunctions to remember
"Earl David," we now proceed to thread the mazes of the glen. For this
purpose we cross the foaming Glazert by a convenient bridge, and, passing
a rustic stile and a small bleachfield on the opposite side, soon find
ourselves on a pleasant footpath, amid the flickering shadows of certain
tall and stately beeches which stand like sentinels at the entrance of the
ravine. These sylvan giants, we may mention, are said to have been planted
on the occasion of the union of Scotland and England. The channel of the
stream at this place is "beautiful exceedingly;" the brown waters rushing
fretfully over a series of shelving rocks, which form, with their
intermingling tints, a sort of natural mosaic, and produce a most pleasing
effect as the slanting sunbeams play amid the dancing wavelets. Advancing
a short distance, the Glazert is seen tumbling in foam over a tiny linn,
and rushing hurriedly away from the rugged pass down which it has just
been precipitated. The path now rises amid tangled steeps and overhanging
cliffs, from which the tortured stream is seen far below, turning and
twining and roaring, as with frightful velocity it dashes over and around
immense masses of rocks which seem determined to retard its downward
progress. As we proceed amidst a profusion of ferns and wild flowers, the
banks wax more lofty, and become clad with a dense luxuriance of foliage.
Now we pass a frail wooden bridge, and are in view of Craigie Linn, which
is about fifty feet in height. The water—that of a small tributary to the
Glazert—with a kind of hissing din, keeps ever straggling down the face of
a dark precipice, in threads of silver whiteness, and falls into a craggy
gully below. The recess in which this fairy cascade is situated is wild in
the extreme, and were the waters in greater volume, would form a fine
picture subject. Scrambling on our way, we arrive at a projecting corner
where there is a seat, from which a splendid prospect is obtained of the
lower portion of the glen. A deep chasm, bosky and rude, slopes steeply
away at our feet; beyond is the wood-fringed and shadowy hollow of the
ravine, revealing a spacious landscape in the distance, which is basking
quietly in the rich amber radiance of the evening sun, and forming a
dazzling contrast to the green gloom in which, amid rocks and trees and
roaring waters, we are enveloped.
While lingering at this "coigne of
vantage," scanning the picturesque scene before us, our attention is
attracted by a fair-haired maiden, coming sauntering up the glen with a
baby in her arms and a train of toddling wee things behind her. Across the
ricketty bridge she trips, and now a little lassie gives her hand to a
tinier brother, and assists him over the ledgeless structure. One false
step, and destruction yawns for them in the gulf beneath. They seem
perfectly unconcerned, however, and in a minute or two they are at our
side. We inquire at the girl if she is not afraid to venture on such a
dangerous walk in company with children, and are answered with an "Oh no!
the balms are quite weel aequentit wi’ the road, and naething wrang has
ever happened to ony o’ them." We think, as we see the red hips of the
briar overhanging the precipitous banks, and tempting the little hands to
pluck, that it is really a marvel "something wrong" has not happened. One
of our friends, who like ourselves has bairns at home, seems to be of the
same opinion, and fumbling in his pockets, brings forth a handful
of "sweeties" and
distributes them among the gratified younkers, as if for the purpose of
wileing them from the contemplation of the dangerous bushes.
The glen, or ravine, as it might
perhaps with great propriety be denominated, now becomes narrower, while
the path approaches more nearly to the bed of the stream. A beautiful
cascade next meets our gaze, the water in one sheet leaping over a barrier
of rock, apparently about fifteen feet in height, with a roar that keeps
the echoes in a constant state of activity and the overhanging boughs in a
ceaseless tremour. Moving onward and upward, a rustic bridge is seen
spanning the gulf, and we soon find ourselves leaning over its ledges
enjoying the rich snatches of scenery which it commands. Another fine linn
occurs immediately above the structure, which has evidently been erected
for the purpose of enabling visitors to inspect the scene from the most
advantageous point. The height of this fall is, to appearance, about the
same as that which we have just mentioned. It is also of one leap, and the
waters are precipitated into a deep, dark pool, which is fretted with
foambells that are ever rising in myriads to the surface. In the vicinity
of the bridge the path comes to an abrupt termination at the base of a
considerable precipice. This is surmounted, however, by a rude kind of
staircase, locally denominated "Jacob’s ladder," up which we manage to
scramble without much difficulty. This is rather an awkward ascent for
ladies, however, and many are the youthful pair of lovers who have been
brought to a pause here. Ay, if that old tree which overlooks the spot
were gifted with a tongue, full many a tale it could assuredly unfold of
merry giggling groups, of blushing maids, and of loving words of badinage.
As we are not likely to find "tongues in frees," however, and as no fair
encumbrance, unfortunately, is on our hands to-day, we can afford to move
lightly on, and a few minutes brings us to "Niagara," the last, best fall
in the series. This beautiful linn is situated on the brow of the
declivity up which we have been toiling. It has a little pf the horseshoe
character of its vast American prototype, and like it possesses a
subaqueous cavity, by means of which the adventurous visitor can pass
unscathed beneath the falling torrent. In the bed of the stream, a few
yards below the cascade, rises a ponderous mass of trap, surmounted by a
patch of verdure pranked with gowans ever "wat wi’ dew." Ascending this
natural altar, the view is indeed lovely; and while we are revelling in
the varied beauties which it unfolds, one of our little band, inspired by
the genius loci, bursts out into Luther’s sublime hymn. in which we
all join with a fervour which makes the old gray rocks to ring, and almost
drowns, for a time, the hoarse unceasing voices of the cataract. Soon our
strain conies to an end, however, and the "never-ending, still-beginning"
music of the stream resounds as before to the passing breeze. Ages on ages
ere we saw the light has its dreary cadences been heard in this lone spot;
and when the place which knows us now shall have forgotten us for ever,
still "morning, noon, and night" shall the roar of its troubled waters
ascend to the everlasting hills. In the words of the old song,
"Oh, we have wandered far and wide
O’er Scotia’s land of frith and fell,
And mony a lovely spot we’ve seen
By mountain hoar and flowery dell;"
but never within the same compass
have we witnessed anything superior, in wild romantic beauty, to the glen
through which we have now passed. Taking its features separately, we know
that they can, each and all, be surpassed in many instances; but in
combination, as we find them, our experience can produce nothing at all
comparable to Campsie Glen. If we have any fault, indeed, to find with
this unique and favourite haunt of the beautiful, it is that there is too
little of it, and that its charms are too soon exhausted. This deficiency
may be to some extent supplied, however, by a visit to its twin, the Fin
Glen, which lies about half-a-mile to the westward. This delightful ravine
possesses a greater volume of water than the Clachan Glen, and has two
picturesque cascades. They are often talked of as rivals, but under the
circumstances "comparisons are odorous," to use the words of old
Dogberry, and we prefer to consider them as lovely sisters.
Retracing our steps down the glen,
one side of which is now in sun and the other in shade, and we, as has
been too often our lot, on the side of gloom, we soon arrive at the inn,
where we find our good old friends engaged in a "three-handed crack," and
not altogether a dry one, with the landlord, Mr. Muir. Nothing loath, of
course, we join them, and spend an hour or so right pleasantly. We then
return to the hospitable house of our friend at Lennoxtown, where the
gudewife gives us a warm reception —pouring into us, indeed, both
"canister and grape" (if on such an occasion we may borrow a phrase from
poor Tom Hood), in well-directed and fast-succeeding discharges. Of
course, after doing our best, we are at length compelled to capitulate,
and cry aloud peccavi.
Our homeward course being over the
same ground which we traversed in the early part of the day, we now don
our "seven-league boots," with the aid of which we speedily get over the
ground, and find ourselves, sometime within the bounds of what are called
"elders’ hours," either in or on the Globe at George Square. |