OLD father Time has passed the meridian of another
year, and is again steering a downhill course towards the golden season of
fruitfulness and falling leaves. The time of singing birds is almost past,
and the voice of the turtle has ceased in the land. The flowers of spring
and early summer have bloomed and nodded their little hours upon the
stage, and now are seen no more. We have the rose by every wayside, the
water-lily and the sedge by lochs and streams, the pansy and the wild
thyme on bank and brae; but the primrose, the craw-flower, and their sweet
sisters of the youthful year, where are they? With the gentle Ferdita, in
Shakspeare’s Winter’s Tale, we could exclaim,—
"O Proserpine,
For the flowers now that, frighted, thou lett'st fall
From Dis’s waggon! daffodils,
That come before the swallow dares, and take
The winds of March with beauty; violets, dim,
But sweeter than the lids of Juno’s eyes
Or Cytherea’s breath; pale primroses,
That die unmarried, ere they can behold
Bright Ploebus in his strength."
We have a special love indeed for the thin-strewn
blossoms of spring. Things of beauty are they one and all, as they open
amidst the smiles and tears of the opening season, each silver starlet and
golden chalice redolent of love, and hope, and joy. But alas! even as it
is with all that man is proud of, they come like shadows, so depart,—
"And the flowers that husk a bonnie brae
Gin anither mouth lie rotten."
In our admiration of the past, however, let us not be
ungrateful for the blessings of the present. The earth is now clad with
beauty as with a garment. Ten thousand radiant blooms are at this moment
spreading their dewy petals of varied hue in the rays of yon rising sun,
which invites us from our city home, to wander forth again among the
rustling fields and shadowy woods. Let us be up then and jogging. Our good
oaken staff—itself the gift of a genuine "heart of oak," and our faithful
companion in many a devious excursion—seems, as if instinct with life, to
leap into our grasp. After a few minutes’ walk, we find ourselves passing
Port-Dundas, "the harbour on the hill," and emerging to the northward from
the urban labyrinth by the Fossil Road. The morning air is clear and cool,
but the cloudless sky above gives abundant indication that a melting day
is before us. A gentle breeze, however, is playing over the spiky fields
of wheat, and rustling with a whisper softer even than that of lovers on a
moonlit bank, among the graceful pannicles of the oat and the silky awns
of the bearded bere. The walk from the city in this direction is
exceedingly pleasant. About a mile out we pass Fossil House, the residence
of our respected sheriff, Sir Archibald Alison, Bart., the learned
historian of Europe, and the accomplished essayist and critic of
Blackwood. The house is a large and substantial but withal plain
edifice, and is surrounded by finely timbered policies of considerable
extent. The locality, although within such a short distance of the city,
has a quiet and retired aspect, and seems peculiarly adapted for the
indulgence of those literary tastes in which the worthy Baronet finds his
principal solace during the intervals of professional business.
After skirting the enclosures of Fossil, the road
gradually ascends, through a stretch of fertile and well-cultivated land,
covered with luxuriant crops, to the gentle eminence of Hill-end, which
commands a most magnificent and far-extended prospect to the northward. On
the summit of this ridge we call a halt, of course, and do homage to the
loveliness of the scene. Spread before the spectator’s gaze is the noble
territory of the Lennox, with its woods and fields, and softly-swelling
undulations, bounded in the extreme distance by the gray mountains of the
Gaol, and on either side by the Kilpatrick and Campsie hills.
Proceeding down a pleasant and gently sloping course
for a short distance, we soon arrive at Lambhill, on the margin of the
Forth and Clyde Canal. There is a delightful walk, of about a mile and
a-half in length, west from this point to Maryhill, along the banks of the
canal, which here passes amid scenes of considerable beauty. Our present
route, however, lies in an opposite direction; so, crossing the water, we
turn our face northward, and soon leave Lambhill behind. A little to the
right of the road we are now pursuing is Possil Marsh, one of the best
botanical stations for many miles round Glasgow. This extensive bog or
quagmire is covered with a dense mantle of rank aquatic vegetation, among
which are a number of rather uncommon species, such as the mare’s-tail
(hippuris vulgaris); the greater spearwort (ranunculus lingua),
a splendid plant; the sun-dew (drocera rotundifolia), and a
rich variety of others. Possil Marsh is indeed a valuable adjunct to the
Botanic Gardens of our city. What the one is to exotic the other is to
indigenous vegetation. For this reason its plashy brink has been for many
years the favourite haunt of the local flower lovers. Here the venerable
professor and his boisterous band of students come to apply practically
the theoretical instructions of the class-rooms. For hours occasionally
they may be seen wandering about, gathering the choicest specimens, prying
with microscopic eye into the mysteries of Flora, and conversing with
exemplary gravity on the number of stamens or pistils to which a certain
class and order are legitimately entitled, or the form of leaf and colour
of corolla which mark the distinctions of genera and species. Yet "true it
is, and pity- ‘tis ‘tis true," that many of these scientific gents, who
can reckon you Latin names by the hundred, feel not one spark of the deep
poetry which dwells in the golden chalices they so mercilessly dissect.
Dry as an algebraic formula is their knowledge of the things of beauty
which are the subjects of their heartless study.
"A primrose by the river brim
A primula vulgaris is to them
And it is nothing more?’
They "consider the lilies of the field," indeed, but it
is only as materials for their herbaria, while the better lesson which the
Great Teacher has gleaned from their unwoven vestures of loveliness finds
no sympathetic thrill in their tuneless bosoms. We would not place upon
our list of friends, however, the man who owned allegiance to such a
Dry-as-dust philosophy.
The margin of the marsh is now in its most luxuriant
condition, being indeed one tangled mass of verdure and bloom.
Forget-me-nots, bed-straws, and cinque-foil, in rich clusters, creep among
the green rushes and horse-tails, forming the most delightful combinations
of colour imaginable; while at every few steps the snipe springs up in
tortuous flight, and the water-hen is heard fluttering amid the floating
leaves, and swallows, peeseweeps and other birds in graceful curves keep
hovering around. Insects of brightest hue are also here "in number
numberless," sporting with merry hum in the sunny air, and reminding us of
Moore’s fine simile,.—.
"The beautiful line damsel flies.
That flutter’d round the jasmine stems,
Like winged flowers or flying gems."
After lingering for a brief space at this favourite
haunt of Flora, we return to the highway, and in a short time arrive at
Bemulie, now the site of a comfortable looking firm-house, but formerly an
important fort or station on the great wall of Antonine, to which we have
previously had occasion to allude. These forts were erected along the
entire line of the gigantic rampart between the Forth and Clyde, at
regular distances of about two miles. The camp of New Kilpatrick, the one
next to Bemulie in a westerly direction, is, in accordance with this rule,
as near as may be, two miles distant, as is also the one to the east at
Cadder. All traces of the fort at this place, however, are now
obliterated. Not the faintest vestige even remains to mark its whereabout.
The plough and the elements have effectually completed the destruction of
the ancient stronghold. A little to the east, however, a deep groove on
the brow of a green hill still indicates the line of the valium and
military way. Various fragments of Roman art have also been from time to
time discovered at Bemulie, or in its immediate vicinity. One of these, a
mutilated tablet, dug from the earth towards the close of the seventeenth
century, and now deposited in the Hunterian Museum, has been of important
service to antiquaries, by furnishing them with a fact necessary to the
integrity of our country’s history. Up to that time the locality of the
several British walls and the names of their builders were matters of
dispute. Only one of the Roman historians, Julius Capitolinus, in his life
of the Emperor Antoninus Pius, refers to the erection of the Caledonian
wall by Lollius Urbicus, legate under that august monarch. For upwards of
fourteen centuries this doubtful incidental statement formed the sole
basis of modern knowledge regarding the individual who erected the wall.
The Bemulie tablet supplied the necessary corroborative link to prove the
authenticity of the old writer. Students of the antique consequently fell
into raptures on the discovery; and Gordon, who afterwards traced the
vestiges of the structure from frith to frith, pronounced the shattered
relic "the most invaluable jewel of antiquity that ever was found in the
island of Britain since the time of the Romans." What, then, is this
historic pearl of great price? It is a rude stone, seventeen inches by
ten, with the following abbreviated, and, to the uninitiated,
unintelligible inscription upon it:—
P. LEG. II. A.
Q. LOLLIO. VR.
LEG. AVG. PR. PR.
By a rule which we do not profess to understand the
Old-bucks of the day extended these mystical hieroglyphics into the
following votive inscription by the Second Legion to the Legate Lollius
Urbicus :—POSUIT LEGIO SECUNDA AUGUSTI PROPRÆTORI. Others translated the
legend as a votive tribute by the legate himself to his august lord and
master, the emperor. Where doctors differ who shall presume to decide? We
might indeed have been induced to hazard an original reading of our own,
but that the memory of "Aiken Drum’s lang ladle" forbids us to venture on
such dangerous ground. The rigid inductions of a Cuvier, however, by means
of which, from the splinter of a bone he could reproduce, as it were, an
extinct animal, are not more interesting to the reflective mind than are
those by which, from a few stray letters rudely carved on stone, the
antiquarian has been enabled to rend the veil of oblivion, and bring into
our ken the events of a long vanished era.
Passing Bemulie, where the drowsy kine are peacefully
pasturing on the site of the ancient battlements, the road slopes
gradually down to the Kelvin, which it crosses by a neat and substantial
bridge. The river here is somewhat dull and sluggish in its character, the
channel being encumbered with weedy shallows, and the margin thickly
overhung with saughs and reeds of rankest growth. It wears, however, a
tangled and somewhat picturesque aspect. The tall bulrushes are nodding
gracefully as we linger to scan its features, and the rich yellow of the
water-lily imparts a degree of brilliancy to the dark-brown and almost
imperceptible current; while a group of cattle, scattered in the shade of
a willow clump on the bank presents a picture which a Paul Potter or a
Cooper would have loved to paint. Soft green undulations rising on either
side at the same time harmonize deliciously with the comparatively rugged
watercourse, and enhance the quiet loveliness of the landscape.
This bridge was the scene of a curious adventure some
two-score years ago. At that period there lived
in you white cottage which adorns the brow of the hill to the left, a
surly old carle who had a bonny daughter, a blythe bouncing lassie of
merry eighteen. The old man was reputed to be wealthy—the maid was his
sole heiress; and of course, where there was beauty and prospective
riches, there was no lack of wooers. To the overtures of such visitants
the father showed himself peculiarly averse, nor, truth to tell, did the
winsome Mary herself seem at all anxious to change her condition. But
"there is a tide in the affairs of women," and at length the Rose of the
Kelvin gave her heart in keeping to a handsome youth from our own good
town. As usual, however, the course of true love was ruffled and fretted
with difficulties. The sweetheart was poor—the father inexorable. The
daughter waxed fairer and more fair—the father more flinty and more cross.
In sweet stolen interviews the lovers for some time contrived to meet,
notwithstanding parental vigilance, until a discovery occurred during a
gloaming walk, after which the hapless Mary was strictly confined to the
house. Faithful in the time of trial, her lover continued to haunt the
vicinity, in hope of obtaining a glimpse of the form and face which were
all the world to him, even the reflection of her figure in the gloom of
the night against the lighted window, proving to him an exceeding great
reward for weary hours of waiting. One dark November night, stormy and
wet, he left the city as usual, in a vehicle, for the purpose of visiting
the spot. Whether the driver had taken a drop too much, or whether the
thick darkness had bewildered him, we cannot say, but on passing this
bridge, with the impetus of the declivity from Bemulie, the machine was
overturned, and the love-sick swain precipitated into the swollen Kelvin.
Jehu, who had by some chance alighted safely on the bridge, instead of
looking in the roaring channel for his hapless "fare," ran at once to the
cottage of Mary’s father and gave the alarm. The old man and his servants
immediately rushed in a body, with lanterns, &c., to the scene of the
catastrophe, and instituted a minute search in every turn and eddy of the
angry stream for the body of the unfortunate gentleman. It was all in
vain, however, and after a couple of hours spent in fruitless exertion,
they returned to the house, moralizing on the sad fate of the supposed
stranger. "Hech, sirs! but he’s gotten a sudden ca’,
puir fallow," said the old maidservant, settling herself by the
kitchen fire, "and dootless it’ll bring a sair stoun to some heart." Her
sympathetic remarks were brought to an abrupt termination by the entrance
of her master, who inquired for his daughter Mary. The maid went to the
chamber of her young mistress for the purpose of calling her. She was not
there, however; while on the floor of the room and on the stair there was
a watery track as if from dripping clothes. Great was the alarm of the old
man when these suspicious circumstances were announced to him; nor, it may
be surmised, was his agitation much abated when a little urchin who acted
as boots to the family exclaimed, "Ay, Miss Mary’s sweetheart was here, a’
plashing wat, and she gaed oot wi’ him a gude while since wi’ her bonnet
and shawl on." It was even so, however and that very night a "Ruglen
wedding" consummated the happiness of the Rose of Kelvin and her "drouket
Glasgow chappie." A reconciliation of course speedily ensued, and in after
years the gentleman has been heard to say, that the most fortunate event
in his life was being tumbled neck and heels in the dark, over a bridge,
into the bosom of an angry and turbid spate.
A few minutes’ walk over an intervening elevation
brings us from the Kelvin to the Allander, where the latter stream seems
hastening to its junction with the former in a sweet spot about
half-a-mile to the south-east. In the vicinity of the bridge by which we
cross the rivulet here, there is a bluff bank of brown sand, which for
many years has formed a favourite breeding-place for the sand martin or
swallow. The steep breast of the declivity is honeycombed, as it were,
with the excavations of the little feathered miners, which, in the season
of nidification, keep continually flying to and from their sandy domiciles
like bees at a hive. We have often sat for hours watching the motions of
this interesting colony, or strolled about the bank culling the floral
beauties with which it is so thickly studded. We cannot spare time for
such dalliance with Flora to-day, however; so, passing the toll-house,
beside which the toll-keeper’s little son is couched on the green, where
his snowy rabbits are munching the succulent clover, we leave the highway,
and by a narrow footpath, ascend the hill. Pausing for a moment on its
summit, what a splendid prospect meets our gaze! To the south-west, over a
richly-undulating surface, we see the ascending vapours of Sanct Mungo,
with Tennant’s tall chimney, the monarch of his species, towering proudly
through the cloud, with his far-floating plume of smoke. Westward, over
woods and fields, the Kilpatrick Hills, with Duncombe, like an immense
blue bonnet, rising over their highest brow; to the north, the vast strath
of the Lennox, with Milngavie and Dougalstone in the immediate foreground.
We have touched on the Roman wall already at various points, but from our
present "coigne of vantage" we can trace its course at a glance for some
eight or nine miles, and comprehend more distinctly than hitherto the
fitness of its plan. Duntocher, Castlehill, New Kilpatrick, and Bemulie
are before us now as if on a map; and we can speculate on their relative
positions and the combined operations necessary for their defence against
the attacks of our indomitable but savage Caledonian fathers.
Descending on the opposite side of the hill you may
well ask, gentle reader, what lovely sheet of water, so calm, secluded,
and still, now bursts upon our view. That is Bardowie Loch—Bardowie the
beautiful; and we ask thee if a glance of it would not more than repay
thee for a summer day’s journey? Yet there are thousands in our own good
town—admirers of nature, too, in a fashionable way, and who travel far in
search of the picturesque—who have never dreamed that such a gem exists at
their own threshold as it were. With such people the far away bird alone
is gifted with glorious plumage. Happier those who, with the gentle poet
of "The Task," can say,—
"Scenes must be beautiful which daily viewed
Please daily, and whose novelty survives
Long knowledge and the scrutiny of years."
Bardowie, as you will observe, is a spacious lochlet of
about seventy acres in superficial extent, its irregular margin being
adorned with picturesque clumps of trees, intersected here and there by
patches of fresh green pasture land, while its immediate circumference is
girt with a profusion of rank aquatic vegetation. Finely situated on its
north-east side, and embowered among foliage, is Bardowie House, an
edifice of moderate size, and somewhat timeworn, yet withal wearing an
appearance of quiet cosieness and comfort. Yon towering flagstaff on the
sloping bank, and yon wreaths of blue smoke curling above the old
ancestral trees, lend a human interest to the scene, which would otherwise
be dreary as a mountain tarn. But let us descend to the mimic beach. Did
you ever witness such splendid specimens of the golden iris, such "stately
foxgloves fair to see," or such fragrant foam-crowned queens of the
meadow? We verily believe you never did! Everything vegetable in its
nature seems indeed more than ordinarily luxuriant here. And what a rich
variety there is! The botanist might wander for days by the rushy margin,
and fail to exhaust its treasures. We have ourselves ere now seen an
eccentric but enthusiastic band of naturalists engaged for hours in
rifling the vegetable and animal productions of this tiny lake, and still
some longed-for object escaped their eager scrutiny. A curious group they
were, in truth, each engaged in his favourite field of study. Here a
sedate entomologist, net in hand, pursuing with ludicrous earnestness the
flickering moths and butterflies; there a spectacled philosopher with a
long ladle groping lovingly in the water for "powheads," "scurs," and
other nauseous creeping things; at yonder reedy point an ornithologist
rejoicing in the discovery of a water-hen’s nest, or blowing, with puffed
out cheeks and purple brow, the contents from a snipe’s egg; while the
flower-gatherers, vasculum in hand, were eagerly scanning the surrounding
verdure, and muttering at every step some horrid Latin name. A merry as
well as a wise corps they were, and many were the good-natured jokes which
from time to time they uttered at the expense of each other’s hobbies,
while the echoes of the lonely loch resounded with their boisterous
cachinnations. Alas! they are scattered far and wide now. Some have fallen
into the long sleep; others are "far ayont the wave;"
while those that remain but seldom walk together in the old
familiar paths.
We must be going, however; and see, as we move, a
"fisher heron, watching eels" by yon crescent of golden lilies, takes wing
and floats lazily, but with a peculiar gracefulness of flight,
across the still waters wherein its moving image is reflected. Now it has
alighted on the farther shore, and is once more "quiet as a stone."
Passing in a north-east direction by the borders of Dougalstone woods,
where we regale ourselves with the piquant but delicious fruit of the wild
strawberry, now red and ripe by the wayside, and by the farm-house of
Dowan, we soon arrive at the kirk-toun of Baldernock. Strictly speaking,
however, Baldernock is neither town, village, clachan, nor hamlet. It
consists principally of two churches, an Established and a Free, both
unassuming buildings, about a-quarter of a mile or so apart, with the
necessary adjuncts of manses, &c., and a few stray cottages dropped here
and there as if by chance, and without any apparent relationship to each
other, There is an old and diminutive meal-mill in the vicinity, the
happer of which at the period of our visit is at rest for want of water;
and close to the parish church there is a comfortable public-house, where
refreshment of excellent quality for man and beast may be obtained. The
rambler who has no special objections to the "dew" may have his wants
abundantly supplied in this neat hostel while the "pledged" may have their
hearts’ content of nature’s brewing at a fine spring which issues from a
green bank near the mill.
After a brief interval of rest we bid farewell to
Baldernock—which is really a delightful rural locality, with its cosie
cottages, well-stocked gardens, umbrageous trees, and wide extending
prospects—and pursue our course towards the north-east. On one hand, we
have a thick belt of planting; on the other, a fine undulating stretch of
country, arabIe, woodland, and pastoral, bounded by the Campsie Fells, the
Kilpatrick hills, and the far mountains of the Highlands. Every turn of
the road alters the features of the surrounding landscape, and brings new
beauties to our ken. The wayside, too, is rife with floral loveliness.
This dry stane dike, with its divot covering, is one lengthened
flowerborder. Every crevice has its own minute fern, every gap its own
rose-bush. here is one tall rose-tree, in full bearing, which, in its
ambition, has actually taken root on the summit of the wall. The Hindoo
Shaster says, "The almond tree is like unto the good man, for if you
strike its branches, they send down upon you a shower of scented
blossoms." Our own wild rose, you see, teaches the same lesson, for by
merely giving it "a gude rough shake," we have been enveloped in rosebuds.
Let us endeavour to take the fragrant admonition to heart; but meanwhile,
here we are at Craigmadie Wood. Within the dense umbrage before us lies
concealed a stately mansion, which is at present the residence of Spens
Black, Esq. Our intention, however, is not to trespass on the hospitality
of that gentleman, but to inspect the "auld howlet-haunted biggin" of
Craigmadie Castle, which is situated on a rising ground in the vicinity of
the modem house. By an intricate footpath through the leafy maze, and
after several times going astray among the tall ferns and flickering
shadows, we at length reach the spot. A mere fragment, shattered and
weatherworn, is all that now remains of this once lordly mansion. One
solitary tower, shorn of its fair proportions, yet sturdy even in decay,
is the sole vestige of its former grandeur. The roof and the greater part
of the walls have tumbled in, probably centuries ago; yet, under the
debris, a vaulted dungeon-like chamber continues almost entire. The
entrance is choked up with rubbish, but by a narrow loophole in the wall
the visitor obtains a peep into its interior, which is gloomy in the
extreme. There is little, indeed, to interest the archaeologist in this
crumbling edifice of the dead; but the poet might find abundant material
for the exercise of his muse within its deserted and dreary precincts, and
the painter obtain a suggestive snatch of beauty from its not
unpicturesque desolation. Nature, we may further mention, has been
peculiarly kind to this mouldering relic of the past. Indeed, we have
never seen ruin so richly garbed with vegetation as in this instance. The
green ivy hangs dense over certain portions of the structure while every
seam and sear is fringed with foliage of the minuter ferns and rock
plants. On the summit of the walls a Scotch fir and an ash have taken up
their station, like warders, with a wild rose, which is in bloom at the
period of our visit, "scenting the dewy air," while on a projection below
is a broad patch of thyme, crimsoned with blossoms. Little is known of the
origin and history of Craigmadie Castle. In the thirteenth century it was
in the possession of the ancient family of the Galbraiths of Baldernock,
who obtained it in the reign of Alexander II., with the surrounding
barony, from Maldwin, Earl of Lennox. About the beginning of the
fourteenth century the possessions of this family passed, by marriage with
the heiress, to David Hamilton, son of Lord Hamilton, whose descendants
afterwards took the title of Bardowie, and of whom the late Dr. Francis
Hamilton was the lineal representative. Regarding the circumstances under
which the edifice was permitted to fall into decay history contains no
record.
Adjoining Craigmadie Wood to the east, and bearing the
same name, is an extensive tract of moorland, wild, rugged, and covered
with heather. To this dreary expanse we now proceed, to visit the
far-famed "Auld Wives’ Lifts." These are situated in the centre of a
spacious natural amphitheatre in the middle of the waste, and consist of
three immense masses of solid stone, two of which are prismatic in shape
and lying side by side, while the third, which is nearly eighteen feet in
length by eleven in breadth and seven in thickness, is firmly poised above
them, so as to form as it were an immense and somewhat rude altar.
According to popular belief this curious structure was formed by the
united exertions of three old women, in those days when, through the
agency of the enemy of man, certain wrinkled crones were occasionally
gifted with supernatural powers, by means of which they could take an
aerial midnight jaunt on a bind-weed at pleasure, and work all imaginable
kinds of mischief on their unfortunate neighbours. Three of these "weird
sisters" on one occasion, it seems, engaged in a trial of strength, in
which the victory was to be declared in favour of the individual who
should carry a large stone to the greatest distance. One took up her
"lift," and bearing it along for some time, dropped it at this place; the
second next lifted her ponderous burden, and bore it forward, but by some
mischance let it fall close to that of her predecessor; on seeing this,
however, the third, who seems to have been a Herculean witch indeed,
raised a much larger mass than either, and to show her superiority, hurled
it with ease on the top of the two preceding stones. Such is the popular
myth, and to this day the natives of Baldernock, Strathblane, and Campsie,
to which localities the Titanic auld wives respectively belonged, have
occasionally serious bickerings regarding the wreath of victory. Heads
have been broken in the dispute, but we understand that, after all, it has
never yet been properly decided.
Between the three huge blocks there is a narrow and
somewhat tortuous passage, through which every unmarried visitant to the
spot, who is not desirous of living a life of single blessedness, is
recommended to scramble in a direction contrary to the course of the sun.
Parties failing to perform this necessary ceremonial in honour of the
genius loci, either willingly or through neglect, are understood to
have forfeited for ever the favour of Hymen, and even although they should
afterwards become benedictines, need never expect to witness a tiny group
of olive branches springing up around their table! Such, according to the
popular creed, are the mysterious influences of the "Auld Wives’ Lifts."
We need hardly mention further, that when the lads and lasses of the
neighbourhood visit the locality, they invariably submit to the ordeal, or
that on such occasions there is abundance of good-humoured raillery and
loud-ringing laughter.
Antiquaries have a different method of accounting for
the origin of the "Auld Wives’ Lifts," although even they have their
differences of opinion on the subject. By some this gigantic cromlech is
supposed to be a Druidical altar, whereon, in a dim prehistoric era, the
dark rites of pagan worship may have been celebrated. In support of this
theory it is stated that, until a comparatively recent period, the remains
of an encircling grove of oak trees were visible on the surrounding
heights, which, from their gentle ascending slopes, also seem peculiarly
adapted for the accommodation of worshipping crowds, who might assemble to
witness the sacrifice of human victims whose blood was shed at the rude
shrine of Moloch. From the form and appearance, as well as the situation
of this lone structure, indeed, this theory seems to our mind exceedingly
probable, and with an inward persuasion of its truthfulness, we experience
a gruesome but not altogether disagreeable feeling pervading us as we
stand upon the stone of blood, which now, thank heaven! has forgotten the
purpose of its erection. ‘We think of the lines written by Keats,—
"There is a pleasure on the heath
where Druids old have been,
Where mantles gray have rustled by
And swept the nettles green."
The name of Craigmadie, which in the Celtic, by no
strained derivation, means the "Rock of God," seems to us an additional
evidence that the structure was erected for purposes connected with
worship. The cromlech, according to this view of the matter, has given a
name to the moor on which it is situated, a supposition which, to our
mind, seems not at all improbable.
In his excellent and elaborate work, the Prehistoric
Annals of Scotland, Mr. Daniel Wilson, lately honorary Secretary of
the Society of Antiquaries, but now a resident in Canada, has given an
engraving and a brief description of the "Auld Wives’ Lifts." This
gentleman has adopted the opinion that all cromlechs (and of course this
amongst others) are of a monumental nature, and that the cavity between
the stones was designed for the reception of human remains. From an
inspection of this specimen, and with all due deference to so learned an
authority, we can only say that it seems to us exceedingly ill adapted for
such a purpose. The chamber, as we have said, is highly irregular in form;
in fact, it seems rather an accidental effect than the design of the
cromlech that it is there at all. The superior block appears somewhat
geometrical in form, especially on its upper surface, but the under
surface and the two lower stones are rude and unshapely in the extreme.
Regarded as an altar we recognize a certain degree of fitness in the
appearance and proportions of the cromlech of Craigmadie, but considered
as a sepulchral chamber, it violates all our notions of suitability to the
desired end. We may mention that the draughtsman of Mr. Wilson has been
unfortunate in the point of view from which his sketch of the "Auld Wives’
Lifts" is taken, the orifice being left entirely out of sight. He has also
failed to convey an adequate idea of the magnitude of the three masses of
which the structure is composed.
Ascending the rising ground in the vicinity we obtain a
splendid prospect of the surrounding country. We do not, however, see
across the island from sea to sea, as certain parties have done.
Nevertheless, the spot is well worthy of a visit for its landscape
beauties alone. The vast basin of the Clyde, from Kilpatrick to Dychmont,
is stretched to the south-west, at the spectator’s feet as it were, with
Glasgow, Paisley, and countless other towns, villages, and gentlemen’s
seats, scattered on its breast; while the line of the horizon is formed by
the Gleniffer and Fereneze Braes, Ballygeich, Neilston Pad, and Cathkin.
Turning in a north-west direction we have, across the dreary moor, the
Campsie Fells, scarred by the Clachan and Fin Glens, and the ravine of
Ballagan, with the peak of Dungoyne overhanging the sweet strath of the
Blane. But we must make our descent; so, taking a farewell glance at the
old altar, lichened and gray, around. which the wild birds which our
presence has disturbed are already settling eerily, we turn our face
towards Balmore, which is situated about three miles to the south-east. It
is principally down hill, however, so that we shall accomplish the
distance, as Paddy would say, "in less than no time."
As we pursue our downward course the country becomes
gradually more and more fertile, until having passed in succession the
farms of East and West Blairskaith and Glenorchard, we find ourselves
among green English-like lanes, with verdant hedgerows and overshadowing
trees, entering the village of Balmore, which is finely situated on the
margin of an extensive haugh, bounded to the west by the river Kelvin.
Balmore is an excellent specimen of an old-fashioned Scottish clachan. It
is of no great extent, nor does it seem at all ambitious to increase its
dimensions. We should say indeed, that, judging from appearances, it is "a
finished town." The houses are, in the majority of instances, plain and of
one storey, with kail-yards attached to them, and lying east and west of
the road, with a strong tendency to avoid anything like orderly
arrangement. host of the tenements are at the same time "theekit" in the
primitive fashion, while the gables are generally surmounted by
"craw-steps" and dwarfish lums, which, like wrinkles on the human face,
are indicative of an advanced age. A sprinkling of trees increases the
rural aspect of the town. Then there are the usual branches of old world
village trade. A gaucy public-house of course there is. The souter’s sign,
"awee thocht agee," meets your eye here; there is the beild of the tailor,
as you are informed by a homely collocation of ill-formed letters; this,
again, by the heterogeneous assemblage of scones, snaps, peeries, bobbins,
red herrings, and tape, in the window, must be "the bit shopie of Jenny a’
things," an indispensable personage in every small community; while the
cart-wheel at, and the horse-shoe on, the door of this biggin’, tells in
unmistakeable terms where the smiddy is located. The presence of wabsters
is also announced, as you pass along, by the jingling of the shuttle. It
is at the same time evident, by the number of female faces peering from
doors and winnocks, as the stranger moves along, that the gudewives and
lasses here are not altogether free from the sin that doth most easily
beset their sex in other and more polished localities.
There are two curiosities in Balmore; and what does the
reader think these may be? Why, nothing less than a "big tree" and a live
poet and novelist. The former of these (to give precedence according to
local etiquette), a stately ash, with a trunk thirty-nine feet in height
clear of branches, and a fine umbrageous head, is the pride and glory of
the village. He would require to be a bold and a stalwart man who dared to
utter a hint in disparagement of this sylvan giant within "earshot" of
Balmore. [This splendid ash, the finest of which the west of Scotland
could boast, was cut down and sold for coach-building purposes during the
summer of 1855. This was a most cruel case of "tree murder," as Miss
Mitford calls this hateful crime.] Such ceremony would be superfluous, we
suspect, in the case of the author. Yet Thomas Hamilton Dickson is no
ordinary man, as the reader will readily surmise when we tell him that
honest Thomas has produced no fewer than two poetical publications, a
historical novel, and an autobiography! We have not the pleasure of an
introduction to this village genius; but we are informed that he is a
buirdly chiel, with flowing locks and a good development of cranium; and
that when "snoddit up" on a Sunday, with shirt-collar a la
Byron, he has quite a Christopher-Northish appearance. Mr. Dickson is, as
we understand, in somewhat humble circumstances; but, from the
autobiography alluded to, it appears that, like St. Patrick, he is "come
of decent people," and can boast a pedigree of which any duke in the
country might well be proud. One is quite astonished, indeed, at the
number of great men whom he can boast among his progenitors. Since a
period considerably prior to the days of Wallace scarcely a great battle
has occurred in which the Dicksons have not distinguished themselves by
extraordinary feats of "derring-do." We regret to say that the descendant
of such a line of heroes has been at length permitted, by an ungrateful
country, to sink below the level of Lindley Murray. Yet so it is. We have
glanced over the writings, poetical and prose, of Mr. Dickson, and are
most unwillingly compelled to admit the sad fact. There is a considerable
amount of originality, however, in the subjects
of his muse, as will be admitted when we mention the titles of two
of his pieces. They are as follows :—"Verses on
a young lady refusing to accept a ticket to a ball with the author;" and
"Lines on a young lady refusing to dance" with the same illustrious
individual. These are both, as may be easily supposed, deeply tinged with
the pathetic. The second, however, concludes with the following spirited
lines:-
"By fury! mock me not again,
So ruthless at your will;
Must I endure your proud disdain?
Yes, no! by Jove, sit still!"
One little gem (gude gear gangs in sma’ bouk) is worthy
of being transcribed entire. It is headed "Worthlessness," and runs thus,—
"A man without a principle
Is like a town without a wall,
Or a nation free of people,
Or a horse in an empty stall."
The Hibernianism in this is delightful above measure,
and we might cull many such, if time and space permitted, from the
inspired pages of the Balmore poet. We must refrain, however; but, before
parting with our author, and lest we should do him an unintentional
injustice, we must quote one other specimen, which, to tell the truth,
occurring where it does, takes us completely by surprise:-
"RECOLLECTION.
"She's on my heart, she’s in my thoughts,
At midnight, morn, and noon;
December’s snow beholds her there,
And there the rose of June.
"I never breathe her lovely name
When wine and mirth go round,
But oh! the gentle moonlit air
Knows well the silver sound.
"I care not if a thousand hear,
When other maids I praise;
I would not have her brother by
when upon her I gaze.
"The dew were from the lily gone,
The gold had lost its shine,
If any but my love herself
Could hear me call her mine."
Now, good-bye, Thomas! There is simplicity, tenderness,
and truth in these lines; and for their sake we will not even allude to
thy "Historical Novel of Clamourtown." Would that thou hadst always
written thus! but of course the muse, like other coquettes, will only
dance when it pleases herself—so, good-bye! And now for Cadder. [Alas!
alasl for the credit of the Balmore bard, the verses we have just quoted
turn out, on subsequent inquiry, to have been the composition of quite a
different writer. Honest Thomas has appropriated them, without
acknowledgement, from the pages of Miss Jewsbury.]
Round the fertile haugh of Balmore, the Kelvin,
confined by an artificial embankment, makes a bold and graceful sweep. On
one side of the stream are luxuriant crops, extending field beyond field
over an alluvial plain; on the other are the umbrageous woods of Cadder,
covering hundreds of acres, and enclosing leafy glades and sylvan recesses
innumerable. Crossing the haugh in a south-west direction we soon reach
the dull and sluggish water, which is here crossed by a picturesque line
of large stepping stones. One of these masses is hewn into the form of a
tablet, and at the period of our visit a group of serious-looking
spectacled individuals are engaged in examining it with profound interest.
Lingering for a moment, as they obstruct the passage, we learn from their
conversation that they are one and all firmly persuaded that the stone in
question is neither more nor less than an ancient Roman landmark. "True,"
one of them remarks in a pompous sort of tone, "there is no inscription on
it, but then exposure to the weather and the rude trampling to which it
has been subjected, will easily account for that; whilst its
characteristic peculiarities of form, and its vicinity to a Roman station,
are at least highly probable evidences of its ancient origin." One of the
party, adjusting his spectacles, proposes to take an accurate measurement
of the valuable relic; another, who seems an artist, at once commences
sketching it; while a third mutters something about a communication to the
Antiquarian Society. At this moment a couple of sweethearts from the
neighbouring village, taking a gloaming walk, come tripping athwart the
Kelvin. Being detained a moment in their passage by the enthusiastic
philosophers, as we ourselves have been, the lad carelessly asks what they
are looking at. "Why, my good fellow (answers one of the savans,
with a rich Irish accent), its neyther more nor less, my jewel, than an
ancient Roman tablet, a relic of the Emperor Antoninus Pius, which, by
some dreadful and unaccountable misthake, has been tumbled into this dirty
wather." On hearing this, the girl, who has been hanging back somewhat
bashfully, at once steps forward, asking rather glibly to be shown the
object of their adoration. It is of course pointed out to her, when,
immediately after glancing at it, she bursts into a most unfeminine
guffaw, exclaiming at the same time, at the top of her voice, "Antoninus
Pius! A’tweel I wat ye’re a set o’ fules, far a’ sae wise-like as ye leuk.
It’s naething o’ the kin’; for it’s jist Redbog’s auld cheese-press that
I’ve wrought mony a day mysel’, and whilk was cuist aside when they got
yon new-fangled machine. Antoninus Pius, quotha!"
Cadder is a lovely little village, consisting of a neat
modern Gothic church and a number of cottages, not very many, scattered
picturesquely about, and perfectly embowered among trees. The name is said
to be derived from a British word signifying "a place beautifully
embellished with wood and water," and it must be admitted that it well
deserves the name. In the vicinity of the village there are well defined
traces of a small Roman camp, which we glance at, en passant, but
as the sun is now below the horizon, we are compelled to hurry on our way.
We soon cross the canal, which passes near the village, and in a few
minutes thereafter reach the Glasgow and Kirkintilloch Road, by which,
passing through the villages of Bishopbriggs and Springburn, we ultimately
make our way into the city, arriving at the "Bell a’ the Brae" just as the
clocks are "chappin’ ten." |