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[An Account of the
Improvements on the Estates of the Marquis of Stafford, by James Kinloch,
General Agent of the Sutherland Estates. London: Printed for Longman,
Hurst, Rees, Ovine & Brown, 1820).]
No country of Europe at
any period of its history ever presented more formidable obstacles to
the improvement of a people arising out of the prejudices and feelings
of the people themselves. To the tacksman, it is clear, from what has
already been stated, such a change could not be agreeable. Its effect
being to alter his condition, and remove him from a state of idle
independence, in habits almost of equality with his chief, to a
situation, although fully, if not more respectable, yet one in which his
livelihood was to be obtained by his exertions and industry, and in many
instances by an application to pursuits, which were by him considered as
beneath the occupation of a gentleman, although leading to real
independence and wealth, to a degree he never could arrive at in his
original condition. Nor could it be agreeable to him to lose that
command and influence, which he had hitherto exercised without control,
over his sub-tenants and dependants; while it was at variance with every
feeling and prejudice in which he had been brought up and educated. It
required minds of no ordinary cast to rise superior to these feelings:
and men of no common understanding and vigour of intellect were
required, to shake off habits so opposed to active industry and
exertion. Jrom a certain set of this class, therefore, a real and
determined opposition to any change was to be looked for. This
expectation has not been disappointed ; and it is from individuals of
this class, and persons connected with them, that those false and
malignant representations have proceeded, which have been so loudly and
extensively circulated. Actuated by motives of a mere personal nature,
regardless of the happiness of the people, whose improvement it was the
great object of the landlord to effect, they attempted to make an appeal
in favour of a set of people who were never before the objects of their
commiseration, in order that they might, if possible, reduce them, for
their own selfish purposes, to that state of degradation from which they
had been just emancipated. This was, however, by no means true of the
whole, or of the greater part of this class of gentlemen; for the bulk
of the most active improvers of Sutherland are natives, who, both as
sheep farmers, and as skilful and enterprising agriculturists, are equal
to any to be met with in the kingdom. They have, with an intelligence
and liberality of feeling which reflects upon them the highest honour,
embraced with alacrity the new scene of active exertion presented for
their adoption; seconding the views of the landlords with the utmost
zeal, marked with much foresight and prudence. Out of the twenty-nine
principal tacksmen on the estate, seventeen are natives of Sutherland,
four are Northumbrians, two are from the county of Moray, two from
Roxburghshire, two from Caithness, one from Midlothian, and one from the
Merse.
So strong, however, were
the prejudices of the people, that, even to those who were subjected to
the power and control of the tacksmen, this mode of life had charms
which attached them strongly to it. He extended, in some degree, to the
more respectable of those who were placed under him, the same
familiarity which he received from the chief. The burden of the outdoor
work was cast upon the females. The men deemed such an occupation
unworthy of them, continued labour of any sort being most adverse to
their habits. They were contented with the most simple and the poorest
fare. Like all mountaineers, accustomed to a life of irregular exertion,
with intervals of sloth, they were attached with a degree of enthusiasm,
only felt by the natives of a poor country, to their own glen and
mountainside, adhering in the strongest manner to the habits and homes
of their fathers. They deemed no comfort worth the possessing, which was
to be purchased at the price of regular industry; no improvement worthy
of adoption, if it was to be obtained at the expense of sacrificing the
customs, or leaving the homes of their ancestors. So strongly did these
feelings operate, that it cost them nearly the same effort to remove
from the spot in which they were born and brought up, though the place
of their new dwelling was situated on the sea-shore at the mouth of
their native strath, or even in a neighbouring glen, as it cost them to
make an exertion equal to transporting themselves across the Atlantic.
The cattle which they
reared on the mountains, and from the sale of which they depended for
the payment of their rents, were of the poorest description. During
summer they procured a scanty sustenance, with much toil and labour, by
roaming over the mountains; while in winter they died in numbers for the
want of support; notwithstanding a practice, which they universally
adopted, of killing every second calf, on account of the want of winter
keep. To such an extent did this calamity at times amount, that, in the
spring of 1807, there died in the parish of Kildonan alone, two hundred
cows, five hundred head of cattle, and more than two hundred small
horses.
As soon as the works,
undertaken under the direction of the Parliamentary Commissioners,
opened a prospect of removing successfully the obstacles which stood in
the way of the improvements of the people, steps were taken to new model
and arrange these extensive possessions. The utmost caution and
deliberation was used in doing so, and plans were never more maturely
weighed, nor executed with more anxiety and tenderness. To aid the
further arrangement of these matters, application was made to William
Young, Esq., of Inverugie, in the county of Elgin, whose active mind and
indefatigable industry had been exhibited in what he had done upon his
own estate. This gentleman superintended the commencement of those vast
improvements which were undertaken on the estate of Sutherland. The
success of the measures carried into effect under his direction,
combined with the difficulties he had to contend with, must always be
the best proof of the ability and indefatigable zeal with which he
executed the charge of which he had taken the direction, and which he
performed so much to his own credit and the advantage of the country. It
is only doing justice to his merits to say, that the rapidity of the
earlier improvements was owing in a principal degree to the impulse and
action inspired by his intelligent and enterprising mind. Mr. Young
resigned his superintendence in 1816, when the local management of the
estate of Sutherland was entrusted to the present factor, Mr. Francis
Suther, whose good temper and judicious conduct in the immediate
management at Trentham, recommended him to the situation he now holds.
These expectations have been fully justified by the manner he has
executed the details of the late arrangements, in which he received the
most cordial and able assistance from Captain John Mackay, late of the
26th Foot, the factor of Strathnaver, and from Lieutenant George Gunn,
of the Royal Marines, Chief of the clan Gunn, factor of Assynt.
These gentlemen deserve
equal credit for the manner in which they have enforced and promoted the
plans which were laid down for the extension of the fisheries and the
cultivation of the coast side, as for their kind and careful conduct
towards the people. Mr. Suther's exertions in promoting and carrying
into effect every arrangement which was made for the encouragement and
the success of the fishing station and village of Helms-dale, requires
particular commendation.
It is well known that the
borders of the two kingdoms were inhabited by a numerous population,
who, in their pursuits, manners, and general structure of society, bore
a considerable resemblance to that which existed in the Highlands of
Scotland. When the union of the crowns, and those subsequent
transactions which arose out of that event, rendered the maintenance of
that irregular population not only unnecessary, but a burden to the
proprietor to whom the land belonged, the people were removed, and the
mountains were covered with sheep. So that it had been for a length of
time proved by the experience of the stock farmers of those mountain
tracts, which comprise the northern districts of England, and the
southern parts of Scotland, that such situations were peculiarly suited
for the maintenance of this species of stock. Taking this example as
their guide, experience had still further proved, that the central and
western Highlands of Scotland were equally well calculated for the same
end.
Reasoning from this
success, and observing that the climate of Sutherland, owing to its
vicinity to the ocean, and to its being considerably intersected by arms
of the sea, was much more moderate than this latter district, it was
fairly concluded that this county was even better fitted for this system
of management, than the heights of Perthshire and Inverness-shire. The
inferior elevation of its mountains contributed still further to this
effect, and held out every encouragement to adopt the same course which
had been pursued with such success in both parts of the kingdom.
The succession of those
Alpine plants, which are common to the Cheviot Hills, when they are put
under sheep, being also the natural herbage of the mountains of
Sutherland, renders them still more suitable to this mode of occupation.
On the first melting of
the snow, the cotton grass is found to have been growing rapidly; it
forms a healthy and an abundant food for sheep, until about the
beginning of May, at which time it is in seed; when, after a short
interval, the deer hair takes its place, starting up almost
instantaneously, and forming, in the course of one week (if the ground
has been recently burnt, and the weather be favourable, a green cover to
the mountains. This plant grows with several varieties of bents, until
the end of July, when the cotton grass again begins to spring, and with
the pry moss, comes a second time into flower, in September, after which
the heather and more heating plants continue until the frosts of winter.
Nor is there any part of these mountains, over which the sheep cannot
roam with ease, in search of food, rendering the whole available and
profitable.
As there was every reason
therefore for concluding, that the mountainous parts of the estate and
indeed of the county of Sutherland, were as much calculated for the
maintenance of stock as they were unfit for the habitation of man, there
could be no doubt as to the propriety of converting them into sheep
walks, provided the people could be at the same time settled in
situations, where, by the exercise of their honest industry, they could
obtain a decent livelihood, and add to the general mass of national
wealth, and where they should not be exposed to the recurrence of those
privations, which so frequently and so terribly afflicted them, when
situated among the mountains. It was a matter of important
consideration, to determine how this was to be accomplished. The local
peculiarities of the county presented none of those advantages in
disposing of, and absorbing the surplus population, which the borders of
the two kingdoms, and the southern and eastern highlands had enjoyed.
Besides it had made no approximation to the state in which the rest of
Scotland was placed, when those changes were carried into effect. It had
stood still in the midst of that career of improvement which had so
remarkably and so splendidly distinguished the rest of the kingdom ; and
remained separated by its habits, prejudices, and language, from all
around.
It had long been known,
that the coast of Sutherland abounded with many different kinds of fish,
not only sufficient for the consumption of the country, but affording
also a supply to any extent, for more distant markets or for
exportation, when cured and salted. Besides the regular and continual
supply of white fish, with which the shores thus abound, the coast of
Sutherland is annually visited by one of those vast shoals of herrings,
which frequent the coast of Scotland. It seemed as if it had been
pointed out by Nature, that the system for this remote district, in
order that it might bear its suitable importance in contributing its
share to the general stock of the country, was, to convert the
mountainous districts into sheep walks, and to remove the inhabitants to
the coast, or to the valleys near the sea.
It will be seen, that the
object to be obtained by this arrangement, was two-fold: it was, in the
first place, to render this mountainous district contributory, as far as
it was possible, to the general wealth and industry of the country, and
in the manner most suitable to its situation and peculiar circumstances.
This was to be effected by making it produce a large supply of wool, for
the staple manufactory of England. While, at the same time, it should
support as numerous, and a far more laborious and useful population,
than it hitherto had done at home: and, in the second place, to convert
the inhabitants of those districts to the habits of regular and
continued industry, and to enable them to bring to market a very
considerable surplus quantity of provisions, for the supply of the large
towns in the southern parts of the island, or for the purpose of
exportation.
A policy well calculated
to raise the importance, and increase the happiness of the individuals
themselves, who were the objects of the change, to benefit those to whom
these extensive but hitherto unproductive possessions belonged, and to
promote the general prosperity of the nation. Such was the system which
was adopted. In carrying it into effect, every care was taken to explain
the object proposed to be accomplished, to those who were to be removed,
and to point out to them, the ultimate advantages that would necessarily
accrue to them, from their completion.
These communications were
made to the people by the factor personally, or by written statements,
communicated to them by the ground officers. That nothing might be
omitted in this respect, the different ministers, and the principal
tacksmen connected with the districts which were to be newly arranged,
were written to, explaining to them, fully and explicitly, the
intentions of the proprietors in adopting them. It was particularly
requested of these gentlemen, that they would impress upon the minds of
the people, the propriety of agreeing to them, and of explaining, that
the motives which dictated this step, arose out of a real regard for
their interests and prosperity, as well as for the general improvement
of the estate.
It was distinctly
admitted, that it was not to be expected, that the people should be
immediately reconciled to them. Such was to expect more than it was
possible to hope for. But it was represented, that if this was so fully
felt, and so clearly admitted, that the landlords must have been
strongly and conscientiously impressed with the necessity and propriety
of the measures adopted, as tending directly to the happiness of those
placed under their protection. These representations had the desired
effect, and nothing can be more praiseworthy, or deserve more to be
applauded, than the conduct of the people on quitting their original
habitations; for although they left them with much regret, they did so
in the most quiet, orderly, and peaceable manner.
If, upon one occasion, in
the earlier years of these arrangements, a momentary feeling of a
contrary nature was exhibited, it arose entirely from the misconduct of
persons whose duty it was to have recommended and enforced obedience to
the laws, in place of infusing into the minds of the people, feelings of
a contrary description. As soon, however, as the interference of these
persons was withdrawn, the poor people returned to their usual state of
quietness and repose. All the statements, giving a different account of
their conduct, are absolutely false, and a libel upon their good conduct
and peaceable character.
These arrangements
commenced in 1807, and have been carried on from that period, as the
different tacks expired, and afforded an opportunity of doing so. Bad
years, and the failure of crops continuing to produce the same miserable
effects they had constantly occasioned to that portion of the
population, which still continued to reside among the mountains. This
calamity fell with great severity upon them in the seasons of 1812-13
and 1816-17.
During the latter period
they suffered the extremes of want and of human misery, notwithstanding
every aid that could be given to them, through the bounty of their
landlords. Their wretchedness was so great, that after pawning
everything they were possessed of, to the fishermen on the coast, such
as had no cattle were reduced to come down from the hills in hundreds,
for the purpose of gathering cockles on the shore. Those who lived in
the more remote situations of the country were obliged to subsist upon
broth made of nettles, thickened with a little oatmeal. Those who had
cattle had recourse to the still more wretched expedient of bleeding
them, and mixing the blood with oatmeal, which they afterwards cut into
slices and fried. Those who had a little money came down and slept all
night upon the beach, in order to watch the boat returning from the
fishing, that they might be in time to obtain a part of what had been
caught.
In order to alleviate
this misery, every exertion was made by Lord Stafford. To those who had
cattle he advanced money to the amount of above three thousand pounds.
To supply those who had
no cattle, he sent meal into the country to the amount of nearly nine
thousand pounds. Besides which, Lady Stafford distributed money to each
parish on the estate : in order that no pains nor consideration might be
wanting, it was arranged that the gentleman who is at the head of his
Lordship's affairs, the writer of this statement, should go to Dunrobin
to settle with the local management and the clergymen, what was the best
and most effectual way of distributing his Lordship's relief. Similar
means were taken by Lord Reay, to alleviate the distresses of his
people. While such was the distress of those who still remained among
the hills, it was hardly felt by those who had been settled upon the
coast. Their new occupation, as fishermen, rendered them not only
independent of that which produced the misery of their neighbours, but
enabled them at the same time, in some degree, to become contributors
towards their support, both by the fish they were able to sell to them,
and also by the regular payment of their rents. While it need hardly be
stated, that these wretched sufferers not only required to be relieved,
but failed entirely in the payment of what they owed the landlord. |
