THE PRACTICE OF COOKERY
CHAPTER VI - VEAL

The names of the joints are as follows: -

In England.

Loin, best end – Loin, chump end – Fillet – Hind Knuckle – Fore Knuckle – Neck, best end – Neck, scrag end – Blade Bone – Breast, best end – Breast, brisket end.

In Scotland.

The Loin, Fillet, and Knuckle – Back Ribs – Breast, Neck, and Head.

In Scotland, the Veal seldom exceeds four weeks old, therefore it is not cut into so many divisions as is the practice in England, where it is often eight weeks old. The Entrails are named the Pluck, which consists of the Heart, Liver, Lights, Nut, Melt, and Skirts, the Throat, Windpipe, and Sweetbreads.

PREPARATORY REMARKS ON VEAL.

Veal should be fine in the grain, firm, white, and fat, and the leg bone small. The finest Calves have the smallest kidney, and its being well covered with thick white fat, indicates good veal. The fillet of a cow calf is to be preferred, on account of the udder. The prime joints are the Fillet, the Loin, the chump end of the Loin, and the best end of the Neck. The keep it, the same directions may be followed, which are given for keeping beef.

When the Fillet is to be roasted, it should be washed, well dried, and the bone taken out, the space filled with a fine stuffing, part of which should be put under the flap, then formed into a round, and firmly skewered. That the fire may be clear and strong, it should be made up some time before putting down the roast, which should at first be placed at some distance from it, and be frequently and well basted with butter. When about half roasted, a piece of white paper is tied over the fat; a little before serving, it is removed; the meat is then sprinkled with salt, dredged with flour, and well basted to froth it. When dished, finely-melted butter is poured over it, with which may or may not be mixed some lemon pickle or brown gravy. It is garnished with cut lemon.

A fillet weighing ten or fourteen pounds requires four hours to roast. The Loin will take about three hours to roast; and is basted, the fat covered with paper, and served like the Fillet. A slice of thin toasted bread is also served with it, on which the carver should lay a part of the kidney fat, and sprinkle it with salt and pepper.

A Shoulder stuffed with forcemeat will take from two to three hours to roast.

The best end of the Neck may be roasted or boiled; if boiled, melted butter, made thick with parsley, is poured over it. A Knuckle of Veal may be boiled and served in the same way.

Pickled pork, ham, bacon, tongue, or sausages, is the general accompaniment to roasted or boiled Veal.

VEAL COLLARED WHITE.

Bone a breast of veal; chop and strew over it some finely-chopped sweet herbs; make a forcemeat of beef suet, grated bread, lemon-peel, a small onion pounded; season with white pepper, grated nutmeg, and salt; pound it in a marble mortar, and lay it thickly over the veal; roll it up firmly, sew it in a cloth, and boil it for three hours. The sweetbread is to be boiled, sliced, and laid round the dish. For gravy, boil the bones and parings of the veal with a bunch of parsley. Strain and season it with white pepper, salt, and mushroom powder; thicken it with butter and flour; and a little before serving, add three or four table-spoonfuls of cream.

BROWN ROLLKLOPS OF VEAL.

Cut off some thin slices from a fillet of veal, and beat them. Take part of the fat from the loin and kidney; mince it finely, with a small bit of veal, and six anchovies; season with salt, pounded ginger, and mace; put it over the slices of veal, and roll them up. Dip them into the beaten yolk of an egg, and then into grated bread; repeat this a second time, and fry them of a nice brown colour in clarified beef dripping; then stew them in some good gravy, adding a little walnut pickle and half a pint of white wine.

VEAL ROLL.

Bone a small breast of veal, and spread over it a rich and highly-seasoned forcemeat. Cut four hard-boiled eggs the long way into four pieces, and lay them in rows, with green pickles between each row. Roll up the veal tightly, and sew it; then put it into a cloth, and bind it with tape. Lay a slice of ham over it, and put it into a sauce-pan, together with some strong stock, and a little whole pepper, and stew it for three hours. Make a rich gravy, and boil it up with a little white wine and lemon juice or lemon pickle; pour it over the veal; add some egg and forcemeat balls, and garnish with cut green pickles. This dish is very good when cold.

TO STEW A BREAST OF VEAL.

Half roast the veal till of a light brown, then stew it over a stove for two hours, in a rich gravy, with a shallot, three cloves, a blade of mace, a little walnut pickle, some oyster liquor, and a few small mushrooms. Half an hour before serving, add a little anchovy liquor. Garnish with cut lemon, and curled parsley.

ANOTHER WAY TO STEW A BREAST OF VEAL.

Cut out the blade bone, and stuff the hole with a nice forcemeat; sew it up, half roast it, and make a quart of gravy of the bones and trimmings; season it with whole pepper, two blades of mace, a bit of lemon-peel, a large onion, some salt, and a bunch of parsley. Strain and thicken it with butter rolled in flour; put in the veal and a table-spoonful of vinegar; let it stew nearly two hours. A little before serving, add a table-spoonful of lemon pickle, and a glass of white wine. Forcemeat balls may be served with it.

ANOTHER WAY TO STEW A BREAST OF VEAL.

Cut off the short bones or gristles of a breast of veal; stew them in a little white stock, with a slice of ham, an onion, stuck with one or two cloves, some whole pepper, a bunch of parsley, and a little salt. When tender, take out the meat, strain the stock, and put it on with a pint and a half of green peas; boil them, and add the veal, and let them stew for twenty minutes. Serve the gristles in the middle, and the peas round them.

ANOTHER WAY TO STEW A BREAST OF VEAL, WITH GREEN PEAS.

Make a quart of gravy with the scrag end; strain it; cut the rest of the veal into small pieces of nearly an equal size; put it into a stew-pan, with the gravy, some pepper, salt, mace, half an ounce of butter, and a quart of green peas. Cover the pan closely, and let it stew nearly two hours; then put in a lettuce cut small, and let it stew half an hour longer. A little before serving, add half an ounce of browned butter, mixed with a little flour.

TO BROIL A BREAST OF VEAL.

Half roast and then score it; season it with parsley, a few finely-minced sweet herbs, a little pepper and salt, and broil it. Make a sauce of some gravy seasoned with onion, grated nutmeg, mace, salt, and an anchovy; boil and strain it; thicken it with flour and butter. Add some minced capers and small mushrooms; pour it quite hot over the veal. Garnish with sliced lemon.

TO ROAST A LOIN OF VEAL WITH BECHAMEL.

Cut an oblong piece of skin from the most fleshy part of a loin of veal, leaving one long side attached to the meat; turn it back, take out all the meat, being careful not to let the knife go through the under side; mince it, put it into a basin, season it with cayenne pepper and grated nutmeg, and moisten it well with good cream. Wash and dry the loin and put the meat into the space from which it was taken; sew the skin neatly round the three open sides. When put down to roast, cover the loin with a buttered paper, and baste the joint very frequently; take off the paper half an hour before it is taken up, to let the roast get a fine brown colour. Serve it with melted butter poured over it, and garnish it with cut lemon.

TO STEW A FILLET OF VEAL.

Bone, lard, and stuff a fillet of veal; half roast, and then stew it with two quarts of white stock, a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle and one of mushroom catsup. Before serving, strain the gravy, thicken it with butter rolled in flour, add a little cayenne, salt, and some pickled mushrooms; heat it, and pour it over the veal. Have ready two or three dozen of forcemeat balls to put round it and upon the top. Garnish with cut lemon.

VEAL CUTLETS.

Cut a neck of veal into cutlets, or take them off a leg. Season two well-beaten eggs with pounded mace, nutmeg, salt, pepper, and finely-chopped sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, and parsley; dip the cutlets into it, sift over them grated bread, and fry them in clarified butter. Serve with a white sauce, forcemeat balls, and small mushrooms. Garnish with fried parsley.

ANOTHER WAY TO DRESS VEAL CUTLETS.

Cut a neck of veal into thin cutlets, and beat them; brown some butter with an onion and some parsley chopped small. Dip the cutlets into the butter, and then into finely-grated bread, seasoned with pepper and salt; broil them of a brown colour; mince the peel of half a Seville orange pared very thin; add it and a grate of ginger to some good thickened gravy, and pour it hot upon the cutlets.

ANOTHER WAY TO DRESS VEAL CUTLETS.

Cut them off a leg, or from the thick part of a loin of veal; beat them a little with a rolling-pin, and fry them in butter of a light brown. Take them out of the pan, pour off the butter, and strew over them grated bread, seasoned with minced parsley and lemon thyme, grated lemon-peel and nutmeg, white pepper, and salt. Put them into a stew-pan with a piece of fresh butter, and let them fry slowly till of a good brown. Add a quarter of a pint of good gravy, and a small tea-cupful of thick cream; let all be made very hot, frequently shaking the pan. Serve it garnished with cut lemon or forcemeat balls, mushrooms, and false eggs. False eggs are made of the yolk of two hard-boiled eggs, which are rubbed smooth, and then made up with fresh butter into the form of small eggs.

VEAL CUTLET A LA VENITIENNE.

Cut into neat cutlets the best par of a neck of veal; trim and flatten them. Chop separately half a pint of mushrooms, a few shallots, and a little parsley; stew these over a slow fire, with a small bit of butter and little rasped fat bacon. When done, put in the cutlets, and season them well with pepper and salt, and let them stew over a slow fire till quite tender; skim off the fat, and add a spoonful of sauce tournee, and the yolks of three eggs beaten with a little cream; then mix in the juice of a lemon and little cayenne.

PLAIN VEAL CUTLETS.

Cut the cutlets off a leg or any lean piece of veal; trim and flatten them; dip them into a beaten egg, then into grated bread, mixed with parsley parboiled and finely minced, some pepper, salt, and a little pounded mace; fry them in butter. With the trimmings of the meat, made a well-seasoned gravy; thicken it, and add one or two table-spoonfuls of white wine; or put a table-spoonful of butter with two spoonfuls of flour into a stew-pan, and brown it; add half a pint of boiling water, a little pepper, salt, and white wine; boil it a few minutes; pour the gravy into the dish, and lay in the cutlets. Garnish with cut lemon and parsley.

TO COLLAR A BREAST OF VEAL.

Bone it, and lay over it a thick layer of forcemeat, made with bread crumbs, shopped oysters, parsley, and grated ham, season with lemon-peel, salt, white pepper, and nutmeg, mixed with an egg beaten up. Roll and bind it with tape; boil it in a cloth, and put it on in boiling water; let it boil gently for three hours. Boil the bones with an onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, salt, and white pepper; strain and thicken it with three table-spoonfuls of cream, the yolks of two eggs beaten up, and a bit of butter mixed with flour. Parboil and slice the sweetbread, dip it into an egg, and strew over it grated bread; fry it with forcemeat ball. Serve the veal with the sauce poured over it. Garnish with the sweetbread and forcemeat balls.

TO COLLAR VEAL.

Bone a breast of veal, and beat it flat; cover the inside with a nice stuffing moistened with eggs; roll it very tightly, bind it, and bake it in an oven with some weak stock in the dish. Make a rich gravy; strain and thicken it, and pour it over the veal. Serve with or without forcemeat balls, and garnish with cut lemon.

It will deep for a long time, in a pickle made with bran and water, a little salt, and vinegar, poured cold over it.

NECK OF VEAL A LA CHREME.

Cut the bones short of a small breast of veal, and skewer the flank underneath, and make the neck as square as possible. Lay it for two hours in oil, with chopped parsley, in buttered paper, and fasten it upon the spit, so as to preserve the square form; roast it about an hour and a quarter; take off the paper, baste it with, and pour over it, a thick veloutee sauce.

NECK OF VEAL A LA BARBARIE.

Trim a neck of veal neatly; lard it in chequers, with black truffles cut into nails. Stew the neck the same way as a ficandeau, putting bacon over the top, that the colour of the veal and truffles may be preserved. When done, glaze it slightly, and serve it with a sauce Italienne, with truffles.

CROQUETS.

Pound, in a marble mortar, cold veal and fowl, with a little suet, some chopped lemon-peel, lemon thyme, chives, and parsley. Season with nutmeg, and pepper and salt; mix all well together, and add the yolk of an egg well beaten; roll it into balls, and dip them into an egg beaten up; then sift bread crumbs over them, and fry them in butter.

KIDNEY TOASTS.

Pound, in a marble mortar, the kidney and the surrounding fat; season with pepper, salt, grated lemon-peel, and nutmeg; mix with it the yolk of an egg well beaten, lay it upon thin toasted bread, cut into square bits. Put a little butter in a dish, lay in the kidney toasts, and brown them in an oven. Serve them very hot.

KIDNEY CAKES.

Mix together with a beaten egg, equal quantities of grated bread, and the fat and lean part of a cold kidney of veal, very finely minced, and seasoned with pepper and salt; form it into small cakes, fry them in boiling lard or butter, drain them upon the back of a sieve before the fire, and serve them garnished with fried parsley.  The lean part of the cold roasted veal may be substituted for the lean part of the kidney.

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.

Cut a piece of veal from the leg, the same in width and depth, and about eight inches in length. Make a hole in the under part, and fill it with forcemeat; sew it up, lard the top and sides, and cover it with slices of fat bacon, and then with white paper. Put into a sauce-pan some slices of undressed mutton, three onions and one carrot sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a quart of good stock; put in the veal, cover the pan closely, and let it stew for three hours. Take out the veal, strain the gravy, and take off all the fat; add a table-spoonful of lemon pickle, and three of white wine; boil it quick to a glaze; keep the fricandeau over hot water, and covered, then glaze it, and serve with the rest of the glaze poured round it, and sorrel sauce in a sauce tureen.

 ANOTHER WAY TO MAKE A FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.

Cut some slices of veal, lard them all through, and put them into a sauce-pan with some white stock, and a bit of ham, one onion, a little mace and pepper. Stew them gently an hour and a half; take them out, strain the gravy, and take off all the fat; boil it up quickly, lay in the fricandeau, and stew them till the liquor becomes like a brown jelly; take care they do not burn. Scald in boiling water three handfuls of sorrel; chop it, take out the meat, and make the sorrel hot in the sauce, and serve the fricandeau upon it.

ANOTHER WAY TO MAKE A FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.

Chop very finely one pound of the lean of a loin of veal, and half a pound of the kidney fat; season it with white pepper, salt, grated lemon-peel, the juice of one lemon, and a finely-shred anchovy. Soak in boiling milk, two rusks, or biscuits, and mix it all well together; make it into balls, with a little flour. Fry them of a light brown, in butter, then stew them in some highly-seasoned gravy, dish them carefully, and strain the gravy over them. Garnish with cut lemon.

ANOTHER WAY TO MAKE A FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.

Cut a slice of veal about an inch and a half thick; lard the top, and blanch it for a moment in boiling water; then stew it in stock, with a bunch of sweet herbs, and, when it is done enough, withdraw it from the sauce-pan, that the sauce may be well skimmed; strain it, put it into another sauce-pan, and reduce it on the fire till almost wasted; put in the veal, and glaze it, and when the larded side is well glazed, put it on the dish in which it is to be served. Add a little cullis to what is in the sauce-pan, and a very little stock, to detach it from the pan; put it in the dish with the fricandeau, and under it a sorrel sauce, made as follows: - Put into a sauce-pan some sorrel, lettuce, chervil, parsley, cibol, and purslain, all well washed, minced, and pressed, with a good bit of butter; do it on a brisk fire, till no water remains; put in a pinch of flour moistened with cullis and gravy, adding pepper and salt, and stew it till done enough.

All fricandeaux may be done in the same way.   

VEAL CAKE, TO BE EATEN COLD.

Pound, in a mortar, as much cold roasted lean veal as will fill a small mould, together with a slice of ham, or bacon, a piece of the crumb of bread soaked in cold milk, two beaten eggs, a small bit of butter, the same of shallot, or onion; season with pepper and salt, and mix all well together; butter the mould, fill it, and bake it in an oven for about an hour; turn it out when cold, and cut it into slices. Garnish with pickled eggs and parsley.

MINCED FOWL, WITH VEAL.

Mince the white part of a cold roasted or boiled fowl; put it, and some thin slices of veal, into a sauce-pan, also some white stock, a squeeze of a lemon, a few drops of shallot vinegar, and a dust of sugar; simmer it for a short time, and serve it upon bread sippets, with the slices of veal laid on the mince. 

POTTED CALF’S FEET.

Boil the feet as for jelly; pick all the meat from the bones, add to it half a pint of gravy, a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg, garlic, a shallot, and some shred ham; simmer it for half an hour, dip a mould into water, put in a layer of the meat, then some neatly-cut pickled beet-root, and some boiled minced parsley, then a layer of meat, and so on, till the mould be filled; when cold, turn it out. Garnish with pickled eggs, beet-root, and parsley.

CALF’S FEET PLAIN.

Scald, clean, and blanch some calves’ feet; boil them till the bones will come out, then stew them in a blanch. See calves; head plain. When done, drain them and serve them with parsley and butter.

TO DRESS CALF’S FEET.

After the feet have been boiled for jelly, heat them in a rich white or brown sauce, in melted butter, then into grated bread, and fry them. Serve with parsley and butter, and garnish with fried parsley.

VEAL OLIVES.

Cut thin slices off a fillet, and flatten them with a roller; season them highly with white pepper, mace, salt, and grated lemon-peel; put a bit of fat into each roll, and tie them with a thread. Fry them of a light brown, and stew them in some white stock, with two dozen of fried oysters, a glass of white wine, a table-spoonful of lemon pickle, and some small mushrooms. Stew them nearly an hour; take off the threads before serving.

Beef olives may be dressed in the same way.

MINUTEN FLEISCH.

Cut from off a leg of veal some slices as thin as the blade of a knife, and about four inches long; season them with pepper and salt, lay them into a deep dish, pour over them nearly half a pint of white wine, let it stand for three hours. Cover the bottom of a stew-pan with butter, dredge each slice of the veal on both sides with flour, add a little more wine, and as much good white stock as will cover it, and the juice of a lemon. Cover the pan closely, and let it simmer five minutes, and serve it instantly, otherwise it will become hard.

MINCED VEAL.

Cut thin slices of lean cold veal; mince them very finely with a knife, and season with white pepper, salt, grated, lemon-peel, and nutmeg; put it into a sauce-pan, with a little white stock, or water, a table-spoonful of lemon pickle, and a little mushroom powder. Simmer, but do not let it boil; add a bit of butter rolled in flour, and a little milk or cream; put all round the dish thin sippets of bread cut into a three-cornered shape; or, cover the mince thickly with grated bread, seasoned with white pepper, salt, and a little butter, and brown it with a salamander; or serve with poached eggs laid upon the top.

CALF’S HEAD PLAIN.

Clean a calf’s head nicely, and cut out the bone of the lower jaw, and of the nose, taking out the nose bone as close to the eyes as possible; wash the head well in warm water, and let it blanch in some clean water. Prepare a blanc, or sauce, as follows: - One pound of beef suet, and one pound of fat bacon, cut small; half a pound of butter, a bunch of parsley, a little thyme, two or three bay leaves, one or two onions, and the juice of a lemon; season with salt, pepper, mace, cloves, and allspice; boil all this an hour in six pints of water, then tie up the head in a cloth, boil it in the sauce about three hours, and drain it; take out the tongue, skin, and replace it; serve quite hot, with the following sauce: - Minced shallots, parsley, the brains minced, some vinegar, salt, and pepper.  

DRESSED CALF’S HEAD.

To take the hair off the head, first wash it clean, and put it on the fire with plenty of cold water; let it boil a little time, try it the hair will pull off easily – if not, boil it till it does, then lay it into cold water to blanch; take off the skin, and cut it into bits an inch a half square; cut what meat is on the head into thin slices, pick out the black part of the eyes, and cut the remainder into rings; cut the ears like small straws, skin the tongue, and cut it lengthwise, or leave it whole; put the brains carefully upon a plate. Make a sauce of a quart of good gravy, thicken it with butter and flour; season with half the peel of a lemon and the juice, two blades of mace, or grated nutmeg, and cayenne; put in the head, and let it stew till tender; add forcemeat balls, fried brown, a few hard-boiled yolks of eggs, and a glass of white wine. Garnish with brain cakes, made as follows: - Beat up the brains with a knife; pick out all the skin and strings, mix with them two table-spoonfuls of flour, a grate of lemon-peel, a little white pepper and salt, two eggs, well-beaten, and half a pint of milk; fry them in butter, dropping them in with a spoon, so as to make them the size of a crown-piece. Lay them before the fire upon the back of a sieve, to drain and brown a little.

To make a simple white gravy, that answers very well, take the bones of the head, chopping away the nose; put them into a stew-pan with a quart of water, an onion, some whole pepper, and salt, a little winter savory, and lemon thyme; let it stew nearly two hours, strain it, put in the prepared head.

ANOTHER WAY TO MAKE DRESSED CALF’S HEAD.

Scald and clean a calf’s head very nicely, and with a sharp knife cut all the meat entire from the bone; cut out the tongue, and carefully take out the brains; lay it all in cold water for two or three hours. Mince very small two pounds of lean veal, and one pound of beef suet, with the grated crumb of a penny loaf, some sweet herbs, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; mix them well together, and bind it with the yolks of four eggs beaten up; reserve as much of the forcemeat as will make twenty small balls; wash the head clean, wipe it dry, and put the forcemeat into the inside; close it, and tie it firmly with taps; put it into a stew-pan with two quarts of gravy, half a pint of white wine, and a bunch of sweet herbs; cover it closely, and let it stew gently. Boil the tongue, cut it into thin slices, mince the brains with a little parsley, and a table-spoonful of flour; add some pepper, salt, grated lemon-peel, and nutmeg; beat two eggs and mix with the brains, drop it with a spoon in small cakes into a pan of boiling dripping, and fry them of a light brown colour. Fry the forcemeat balls, and drain them, with the cakes, upon the back of a sieve before the fire; when the head has stewed till it be sufficiently tender, put it into a dish and take off the tape; strain the gravy, and thicken it with a table-spoonful of flour, of rice, and a little bit of butter; if not well-seasoned, add more salt and pepper; put in the tongue, make it all hot, and pour it over the head. Garnish with the brain-cakes, forcemeat balls, and cut lemon.

ANOTHER WAY TO MAKE DRESSED CALF’S HEAD.

Scald and clean the head; cut off the meat into thin small pieces; soak some bits of the fat for half an hour in spinach juice; strain, and add them with the meat to three pints of rich veal or mutton stock, a pint of Madeira, an ounce of butter mixed with flour, a large onion finely minced, the juice of two lemons, the peel of one cut like straws, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Stew all together for an hour; pick out the herbs; add some chopped oysters, and put it into a deep dish, with puff-paste round the edge; bake it till of a light brown, and garnish the top with hard-boiled yolks of eggs and forcemeat balls. The oysters may be omitted.

TO ROAST A CALF’S HEAD.

Wash and clean it well; parboil it, take it out the bones, brains, and tongue; make forcemeat sufficient for the head and some balls with bread crumbs, minced suet, parsley, grated ham, and a little pounded veal, or cold fowl; season it with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and lemon-peel; bind it with an egg, beaten up, fill the head with it, which must then be sewed up, or fastened with skewers, and tied. While roasting, baste it well with butter; beat up the brains with a little cream, the yolk of an egg, some minced parsley, a little pepper and salt; blanch the tongue, cut it into slices, and fry it with the brains, forcemeat balls, and thin slices of bacon. Serve the head with white or brown thickened gravy, and place the tongue, forcemeat balls, and brains round it. Garnish with cut lemon. It will require one hour and a half to roast.

CALF’S HEAD BIGARREE.

Clean and blanch a calf’s head; boil it till the bones will come out easily, then bone and press it between two dishes, so as to give it an oblong form; beat with the yolk of four eggs, a little melted butter, pepper, and salt. Divide the head when cold, and brush it all over with the beaten eggs, and strew over it grated bread; repeat this twice. With the grated bread, which is put over one half, a good quantity of finely-minced parsley should be mixed; place the head upon a dish, and bake it of a nice brown colour. Serve it with a sauce of parsley and butter, and with one of good gravy, mixed with the brains, which have been previously boiled and chopped, and seasoned with a little cayenne and salt.

TO PLAIN BOIL A CALF’S HEAD.

Split the head, and take out carefully the brains and tongue; wash the head well, and let it lie two or three hours in cold water. Boil it with the tongue and brains gently in plenty of water, till it be quite tender; take out the bones, and pour over the head parsley and butter made very thick; rub the brains through a sieve; add to them a little chopped parsley, some pepper, salt, flour, and butter; mix all well as a corner dish, or it may be salted. When salted, the brains, with the addition of a little butter and chopped parsley, may be put over the head, or served in a sauce tureen.

TO STEW CALF’S HEAD.

Boil the head; cut off the meat into square bits, and stew it in some good brown gravy, with a table-spoonful of anchovy essence; of mushroom catsup, Harvey sauce, and lemon juice, two table-spoonfuls each; half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and two ounces of butter mixed with flour; a little before serving, add a tea-cupful of Madeira.

CALF’S BRAINS WITH FRIED PARSLEY.

Blanch three or four brains, of nearly an equal size; parboil them, and take off the skin; then boil them in water, with a little salt, vinegar, and butter, a table-spoonful of vinegar, some salt and pepper, and some parsley fried very green.

TO DRESS CALVES’ EARS.

Cut the ears of two calves deep at the bottom, and even, so that they may stand; clean and wash them well, and boil them till tender in milk and water; fill them with a nice forcemeat, tie them with thread, and stew them in a little of the liquor they were boiled in; season it with pepper, salt, mace, and a small onion minced. Before serving, thicken the sauce with the yolk of an egg beaten up in a little cream.

BOUDIN A LA REINE.

Cut the meat of cold roasted veal, or that of fowls, into dice; season, and heat it in a veloutee sauce. When cold, form it into rolls the length of the dish; dip them into beaten eggs, and then into grated bread; repeat this, and let them be completely covered with the grated bread; fry them of a fine colour; drain and serve them with fried parsley laid between each.

VEAL EN BLANQUETTE.

Cut some cold roasted veal into very little bits, without any fat; reduce and clarify two spoonfuls of white cullis, thicken it with the yolks of eggs and a good bit of fresh butter; add a pinch of minced parsley and the squeeze of a lemon; heat the veal in this, and serve it immediately.

Blanquettes of fowls may be made in the same way.

TO POT VEAL.

Cut slices off a leg of veal, and season them with white pepper, pounded mace, cloves, and salt. Lay thin slices of fresh butter between each layer of meat into a potting pan or jar; cover it closely, and bake it in a quick oven from one to two hours. When it is cold, pound the meat in a marble mortar, pack it closely into a jar, and pour clarified butter over it.

VEAL CONES.

Mince small one pound and a half of cold veal, two ounces of butter, and a slice of lean ham; pound them in a mortar, and mix, in five table-spoonfuls of cream, two tea-spoonfuls of white pepper, one of salt, and some grated lemon-peel. Make it up into cones about three inches high; rub them over with an egg beaten up, sift grated bread over them, and fry them of a light brown colour; put fried bread crumbs into the dish, and place the cones upon them, or serve them with a brown gravy instead of crumbs. Cold fowl, turkey, or rabbit, make god cones. Half the ingredients will be sufficient for a corner dish.

PYRAMIDS OF RICE.

Boil some whole rice, make it up into the form of pyramids about three inches high, or press it into small tin frames of that shape; take out part of the rice at the bottom, and fill the space with sausage, or rich forcemeat; place them in a dish, take off the frame, and pour round them some rich brown gravy.

CASSEROLE OF RICE.

Having cleaned and drained about half a pound of rice, moisten it in a stew-pan, with some fat – that which gathers on the top of the liquor in which meat has been boiled; strain some broth or soup, add to it a large quantity of grease; some pieces of fat bacon, and a little salt, and mix it with the rice, to make it swell as much as possible; stir it frequently over a slow fire to keep it from sticking; when it is soft, strain it through a cullender, and press it well with a wooden spoon. The mould being selected for the casserole, rinse it with the fat drained from the rice, taking care that every part of the inside of the mould be well greased; then cover it with rice, and place a piece of the crumb of bread in the middle, and cover it with rice also; press it in equally with a spoon, and let it cool. When the rice has become firm, dip the outside of the mould into boiling water; put a covering of paste made with flour and water; flatten it all round with a spoon, and make an opening in the tope with a knife; then put it into the oven, which cannot be too hot for a casserole, baste it with the grease, and when it has become of a fine colour, take it out of the oven, remove the crust, and take out the bread carefully, so that the casserole may not be injured; next remove some of the rice from the inside, taking care to leave enough to resist the weight of whatever may be put inside of it. Fill it with minced meat, ragout, blanquette, fricassee of chickens, macaroni, or scallops of fish, that have been already served at table; return it to the oven, and when nicely browned, serve it.

CASSOLETTES OF RICE.

The rice prepared as above may be put into smaller moulds – those called dariole moulds – and it should be quite cold before it is turned out, the mince, or whatever is put inside, being also cold; it must be put in carefully, that none of it may mix with the rice, otherwise the cassolettes would break in the process of frying; for the same reason, the dripping must be very hot. Frying is the best and quickest method of doing them, but they may also be browned in the oven as the casserole of rice.

CASSEROLE OF POTATOES.

Boil and peel some good mealy potatoes; pound, and mix with the mash some butter, cream, and a little salt; put it about an inch and a half high upon a flat dish, and leave an opening in the centre; bake the mash of a light brown colour, and take out as much from the centre as will admit of a ragout, fricassee, or macaroni, being put into it.

RISSOLES.

Mince very finely some cold roasted veal, and a small bit of bacon; season it with grated nutmeg and salt, moisten it with cream, and make it up into good-sized balls; dip them into the yolks of eggs beaten up, and then into finely-grated bread. Bake them in an oven, or fry them of a light brown colour in fresh dripping. Before serving, drain them before the fire on the back of a sieve. Garnish with parsley.

KEBOBBED VEAL.

Cut into thin bits the size of a crown-piece some lean veal; season them with turmeric, pepper, and salt. Slice onions very thinly, and some garlic; put the slices of veal and onion upon a skewer, together with thin bits of pickled pork. Fry them brown with butter, and garnish with plenty of fried parsley.

CUTCHAREE.

Boil a quarter of a pound of split peas till they be tender; drain them in a cullender. Wash very clean a pound of rice; chop the peas finely, mix them with the rice, and season with a little turmeric. Fry in an ounce and a half of butter, a minced onion, and of cloves, mace, cardamom, and black pepper, when pounded, half a tea-spoonful each; stir them constantly, to prevent their burning. Season a quart of veal stock with salt and pepper; put in the rice and the fried onion and spices; cover the stew-pan closely, and let it simmer till the rice becomes tender and dry. Serve it with a cup of oiled butter.

CALF’S LIVER LARDED AND ROASTED.

Lard a fine calf’s liver the same as a fricandeau, and let it lie for twenty-four hours in vinegar, with a sliced onion, some parsley, a little thyme, a bay leaf, some salt and pepper. Roast and baste it well with butter, then glaze it with a light glaze, and serve it with a poivrade, or any other sauce.

SCOLLOPS OF CALF’S LIVER.

Parboil and cut into slices a very fine calf’s liver, and shape them into hearts. Stew some fine herbs, parsley, shallots, and mushrooms; then add the calf’s liver, and let it stew over a slow fire; when done on one side, turn and season it with pepper and salt; take out the liver, dredge in a little flour over the herbs, and add some more gravy; let this boil for ten minutes, then heat the liver in the sauce before serving it.

This may be eaten at breakfast.

CALF’S PLUCK.

Wash it very clean, and, if liked, stuff the heart with a forcemeat, made of crumbs of bread, butter, and parsley, and seasoned with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Fasten it firmly with the liver and lights, tying them to the skewers while roasting; baste it well with butter, and froth it the same way in which veal is done, and serve it with melted butter, mixed with a table-spoonful of lemon-pickle, or vinegar poured over it.

ANOTHER WAY TO DRESS CALF’S PLUCK.

Stuff the heart with a rich forcemeat, enclose it in paste, rub it over with the beaten white of eggs, lay over it vermicelli, which has been boiled, and bake it. Boil the liver and lights, mince part of them, stew it in some gravy, thicken it with butter rolled in flour, and add a little catsup. Slice and fry the remainder of the liver and lights with a little bacon; place the heart upon the mince, and garnish with the fry.

TO BROIL A SWEETBREAD.

Parboil it, rub it with butter, and broil if over a slow fire; turn it frequently, and baste it now and then, by putting it upon a plate kept warm by the fire with butter in it.

TO ROAST SWEETBREADS.

Wash, and parboil them in milk and water; then dry and rub them over with the beaten yolk of an egg, and roll them in grated bread, repeat this twice; roast them of a nice brown colour, in a Dutch oven, and baste them now and then with butter. Sweetbreads dressed in this way may be served with brown gravy, or with bread sauce, so as nearly to cover them.

TO FRICASSEE SWEETBREADS WITH BROWN SAUCE.

Parboil two or three fine sweetbreads; cut them in slices, and dip them into the beaten yolk of an egg which has been mixed with a little flour, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg; fry them a nice brown; thicken some well-seasoned gravy with a little flour, adding a tea-spoonful of lemon juice, two of catsup, and a table-spoonful of white wine; boil it well, and then stew in it the sweetbreads for a few minutes before serving.

SWEETBREADS A LA DAUPHINE.

If for a round dish, take four large and fine sweetbreads; if for a long dish, three will suffice. Pare off the fat and sinews, and blanch them in warm water; parboil them, and when cold, lard them. Rub a stew-pan with fresh butter, and put into it a few sliced carrots and onions, then a layer of slices of fat bacon; place the sweetbreads upon the bacon, sprinkle a little salt over them, and stew them with a great deal of fire on the top, and a very slow one beneath; when they are nicely browned, cover them with a piece of buttered paper, cut round, and lessen the fire upon the top. They will require to stew for three quarters of an hour; then drain and put them into a pan, with some glaze, and the bacon underneath. Leave them in the glaze till dinner time, drain them again, glaze them of a fine brown, and serve them with sorrel or endive.

ITALIAN ATTELETS OF SWEETBREADS.

Blanch some nice sweetbreads, and stew them in a well-seasoned gravy, made of meat and vegetables; when cold, cut them into pieces of nearly an inch square; put them into a sauce d’attelets, and let them cool. With silver skewers, skewer the sweetbreads, and a bit of ready-dressed calf’s udder alternately; make them all as much as possible of an equal size, and of a square form. Moisten them with the sauce, and cover them with grated bread; then dip them into four well-beaten eggs, strew over them some more grated bread, and level it with a knife; fry them of a fine brown, and serve with an Italian sauce, white or brown.

SMALL CASES OF SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS.

Blanch and parboil some fine sweetbreads; cut them into small scallops. Then chop separately, and finely, half a pint of mushrooms, a little parsley, and four or five shallots; add a little fat bacon rasped, and a piece of fresh butter; season the scallops with pepper, salt, and a little mace, stew it altogether over a slow fire; when done, drain off the fat, place the scallops in small paper cases, which have been fried in olive oil, cover them with plenty of finely-chopped herbs, and strew over them fried bread crumbs; lay the paper cases for a moment into the oven, and before serving, pour into each a little rich gravy, and a little lemon juice.

CROQUETS OF SWEETBREADS.

Mince some cold sweetbreads, which have been dressed, and boil them in a sauce veloutee; when quite cold, form them into balls, or into rolls about two inches long; fry, and serve them with fried parsley in the middle. Or, make the croquet meat into a rissole. Roll out a piece of thin puff-paste, enclose the meat in it, brush it over with a beaten egg, and strew over it grated bread; fry it of a light brown colour.

TO DRESS COLD VEAL.

Mince finely the fat and lean of cold roast veal; season it with grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, white pepper, and salt; moisten it with a little rich white stock, and a beaten egg; cover it closely, and set it into a pan of boiling water; let it boil an hour or two. Serve it with a white gravy thickened, or when turned out of the shape, rub it over the top with the beaten yolk of an egg; sift bread crumbs thickly over, and brown it in a Dutch oven; baste it with a little melted butter. Garnish with fried parsley or cut lemon.

ITALIAN VEAL.

Boil with some bread and milk an onion, a bay leaf, a little cayenne and whit pepper, and a beaten egg; take out the bay leaf, and add some pounded raw lean veal, with a little fat of veal which has been boiled and pounded; rub the mixture through a coarse sieve, and with a little flour form it into rolls; tie each roll in a bit of cloth first dipped into hot water, and dusted with flour; put them on in boiling water, and boil them ten or twelve minutes. Serve them with a white or brown gravy well seasoned.

CALF’S CHITTERLINGS, OR FRAISE.

Cut them open with scissors; wash and cleanse them thoroughly, lay them for a night into salt and water; then wash them well, parboil, and cut them into small pieces, dip them into a thick batter, seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little white wine; fry them of a light brown colour in beef dripping; serve with a fringe of fried parsley. Or,

After being parboiled, they may be roasted, when they must be constantly basted with butter, dredged with flour to froth them nicely; then served with melted butter, and lemon pickle poured over them. Or,

They may be baked – when, after being parboiled, they are rubbed over with butter, and put into the oven on an iron frame, which is placed in a deep dish. This oblong frame of white iron, about two inches high, will be found useful in baking every kind of meat.

SAVOURY CABBAGE.

Pound, in a marble mortar, about two pounds of veal, a large slice of ham, two shallots, and a quarter of a pound of fresh beef suet; season with white and cayenne pepper, nutmeg, lemon-peel, salt, and some parsley and lemon thyme finely minced; beat all well together till thoroughly mixed, and add the well-beaten yolk of three eggs. Wash and clean a large head of cabbage, take out the heart, and stuff it with the above ingredients; roll it in a cloth, and sew it tightly; boil it slowly for three hours, and serve it with a white sauce.

A GRENADE.

Put alternately into a small potting pan or jar, a layer of each of the following ingredients: - Vermicelli, ham, hard-boiled yolks of eggs, veal, and highly-seasoned forcemeat, all finely pounded, excepting the vermicelli, which is merely boiled. Cover the pan, and bake it in an oven form one to two hours; when turned out, pour over it some rich brown gravy, and garnish with mushrooms, cut lemon, or truffles, and morels.

POTATO PATTIES.

Wash and scrape off the rind of four or five large potatoes; cut off the top, and scrape out the inside; mix a part of it with a little pounded veal and ham; add a little cream, nutmeg, lemon-peel, salt, and pepper, and a little mushroom catsup. Put this mixture into the patties, put on the top, and place them upright in a pudding dish, with a little butter in the bottom of it; bake them in an oven. A little bit cut off the bottom of each will make them stand even better.

FROGS.

Having cut off the feet and the body, so as to have scarcely more than the legs, put them into boiling water, and let them boil a little; next, put them into fresh water, and then drain them; put them into a sauce-pan with some mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, cibol, a clove of garlic, two cloves and a bit of butter; give them two or three turns on the fire, and add a dust of flour, moisten them with a glass of white wine and a little gravy; season with salt and pepper; let them boil a quarter of an hour, and thicken the sauce with the yolks of three eggs, a little cream, and a pinch of finely-minced parsley; let it thicken without boiling it.

This is given as a national dish.

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