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THE PRACTICE OF COOKERY
CHAPTER III. - BEEF


The names of the various pieces, according to the English and Scotch method of dividing the carcass, are as follows: -

IN ENGLAND.

The Hind Quarter contains the Sirloin – Rump- Edgebone – Buttock – Mouse Buttock – Veiny-Piece – Thick Flank – thin Flank – Leg – Fore Rib – Five Ribs.

The Fore Quarter contains the Middle Rib, of four ribs – Chuck, of three ribs – Shoulder, or Leg-of-Mutton Piece, containing a part of the Blade-bone – Brisket – Clod – Neck End, or Sticking Piece – Shin – Cheek.

IN SCOTLAND.

 The Middle Sirloin – Top of the Rump and Hook-bone – Middle Hook-bone and Round – the Hough – the Spare Rib – the Flank and part of the Hough – the Fore Saye – the  Breast and Nine-holes – the Liar – Neck and Sticking-Piece – the Knap – Cheek and Head.

Besides these are the Tongue and Palate. The Entrails consist of the Heart – Sweetbreads – Kidneys – Skirts – and three kinds of Tripe, the Double, the Roll, and the Red Tripe.

PREPRATORY REMARKS ON BEEF.

Ox Beef is considered the best. The flesh should feel tender, be fine in the grain, and of a bright red colour, nicely marbled or mixed with fat. The fat should be white, rather than of a yellow colour.

Heifer Beef is excellent when finely fed, and is most suitable for small families. The bone should be taken out of a round of beef before it is salted; and it must be washed, skewered, and bound round firmly before being boiled. Salt beef should be put on with plenty of cold water, and when it boils, the scum removed. It is then kept simmering for some hours. A piece weighing fifteen pounds will require three hours and a half to boil. Carrots and turnips for garnishing should be put on to boil with the beef. If in the least tainted, a pieced of charcoal may be boiled with it.

When beef is to be kept any length of time, it should be carefully wiped every day. In warm weather, wood vinegar is an excellent preservative: it is put all over the meat with a brush. To protect the meat from flies, it may be sprinkled over with pepper. Tainted meat may be restored by washing in cold water, afterwards in strong chamomile tea, after which it may be sprinkled with salt, and used the following day, first washing it in cold water. Roughly-pounded charcoal, rubbed all over the meat, also restores it when tainted. In summer, meat in Scotland is frequently kept a fortnight smothered in oatmeal, and carefully wiped every day; and if it should be a little tainted, it is soaked for some hours before it is used, in oatmeal and water.

These directions apply equally to all sorts of meat.

The Sirloin is the prime joint for roasting. When to be used, it should be washed, then dried with a clean cloth, and the fate covered over with a piece of white paper tied on with thread. The spit should be kept at all times exceedingly clean: it must be wiped dry immediately after it is drawn from the meat. And washed and scoured every time it is used. Care should be taken to balance the roast properly upon the spit; but, if not exactly right, it is better to make it equal by fastening on a leaden-headed skewer, than to pierce it again. The fire should be prepared by putting on plenty of coals at the back. When put down, it should about ten inches from the fire, and gradually drawn nearer. It is first basted with a little butter or fresh dripping, and then well basted with its own fat all the time it is roasting. Ten minutes before serving, it should be sprinkled with a little salt, then dredged with flour, and basted till it is frothed. When it is drawn from the spit, some gravy will run out, to which may be added a little boiling salt and water poured along the bone: the beef is then garnished with plenty of finely-scraped horse-radish. A sirloin, weighing about fifteen pounds, should be roasted for three hours and a half. A thinner piece of the same weight requires only three hours. In cold weather, meat requires longer roasting than in warm, and if newly killed than if it has been kept.

TO STEW A RUMP OF BEEF.

Tie up the beef, and put it on to stew with nearly as much cold water as will cover it; add three pounds of fat bacon cut into slices, a handful of thyme, eight onions, four small carrots, two turnips, two or three bay leaves, some black pepper, a little allspice, mace, and three cloves, a pint of port wine, and one of sherry. Let it stew gently between seven and eight hours. Take out the beef, strain the liquor and skim off all the fat; thicken it with a little flour rubbed down in cold water, boil it up. And pour it over the beef. Have ready carrots and turnips, according to fancy, and boiled tender in weak gravy, and put them round the beef before serving.

ANOTHER WAY TO STEW A RUMP OF BEEF.

Bind the beef tightly, stick into it four cloves, and put it into a sauce-pan with three quarts of water, a quarter of an ounce of black pepper half beaten, some salt, a bunch of sweet herbs, and three anchovies; turn it often, and when half done take it out, pour off the liquor; put in the beef again, with a pint of port wine and a half a pint of table-beer made scalding hot, and some of the liquor strained; stew it till tender, clear off the fat, and if the sauce is not strong enough, add well-seasoned beef gravy; thicken it with flour rubbed down in a little cold water. Dish the beef, and pour the gravy round it.

ANOTHER WAY TO STEW A RUMP OF BEEF.

Fry a small rump or fore rib of beef in butter till it is brown all over. Make a sauce with butter browned with flour, and some water in which two or three onions have been boiled; season with pepper, salt, and three table-spoonfuls of vinegar; put in the beef, turn it frequently, and stew it gently for three hours. A little before serving, add a tea-cupful of port wine. Carrots and turnips, cut into dice, may be stewed with it.

A RUMP OF BEEF A LA BRAISE.

After a rump of beef has hung for five or six days, bone, and lard it thickly, but so as not to appear upon the surface, with bits of bacon or ham cut about half an inch square, and rolled in the following seasoning well mixed: - Finely-minced onion, parsley, thyme, a little garlic, pepper, and salt. What is left over of the seasoning add to a pint of vinegar, one of port wine, and a tea-cupful of salad oil; steep the beef in this for one night; the following day paper it, and roast it in a cradle spit. Baste it well, and serve it with a thick brown gravy. A little lemon juice, and sliced pickled cucumbers may be added. Garnish with slices of boiled carrot and scraped horse-radish.

STEWED BEEF.

Stew in five quarts of water the middle part of a brisket of beef weighing ten pounds, add two onions stuck with two cloves, one head of celery, one large carrot, two turnips cut small, a handful of sorrel leaves, half an ounce of black pepper, and some salt. Stew it gently for six hours. Make a strong gravy with carrots and turnips, the turnips to be scraped and fried of a brown colour in butter; add pepper, salt, and a little cayenne; thicken it with flour and butter, and pour it over the beef, with the carrots and turnips.

ANOTHER WAY TO STEW BEEF.

Take ten pounds of a brisket of beef; cut the short ribs, and put it into a well-buttered sauce-pan, with two large onions, stuck with three or four cloves, two or three carrots cut into quarters, a bunch of sweet herbs, a small lemon sliced, and five quarts of water; let it stew seven hours. Strain and clarify the gravy; thicken it with butter and flour. Chop the carrots with some capers, mushroom catsup, and cayenne. Any other pickle this is liked may be added.

ANOTHER WAY TO STEW BEEF.

Pound and mix together two ounces of Jamaica pepper, half an ounce of black pepper, and a little ginger, and half a pound of bay salt; rub it well into a round or rump of beef weighing fourteen or sixteen pounds; let it lie five or six days, turning it daily. Put a flat plate at the bottom of a sauce-pan, put in the beef, cover it with water, and let it stew for five hours, keeping the pan perfectly close. If the water wastes, add more, boiling hot. Before serving, take out about a quart of the gravy, skim, and add to it some grated nutmeg and pepper, and some cut pickles; heat and pour it over the beef. Garnish with cut pickles.

HUNTING BEEF.

Rub well into a round of beef weighing about forty pounds, three ounces of saltpeter; let it stand five or six hours; pound three ounces of allspice, one of black pepper, and mix them with two pounds of salt and seven ounces of brown sugar. Rub the beef all over with the salt and spices, let it remain fourteen days, and every other day turn and rub it with the pickle; then wash off the spices, and put it into a deep pan. Cut small nearly six pounds of beef-suet; put some into the bottom of the pan, but the greater part upon the top of the beef. Cover it with a coarse paste, and bake it eight hours. When cold, take off the crust, and pour off the gravy. It will keep good for three months. Preserve the gravy, as a little of it improves the flavour of hashes, soups, or any made dishes.

BEEF A LA BRAISE.

Bone a rump of beef; lard it very thickly with bacon seasoned with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and allspice, and season the beef with pepper and salt; put some slices of bacon into the bottom of the pan, with some whole black pepper, a little allspice, one or two bay leaves, two onions, a clove of garlic, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Put in the beef, and lay over it some slices of bacon, two quarts of weak stock, and half a pint of white wine. Cover it closely, and let it stew between six and seven hours.

Sauce for the beef is made of part of the liquor it has been stewed in, strained, and thickened with a little flour and butter, adding some green onions cut small, and pickled mushrooms. It is poured hot over the beef.

BEEF OLIVES.

Cut the beef into long thin steaks; prepare a forcemeat made of bread crumbs, minced beef-suet, chopped parsley, a little grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; bind it with the yolks of eggs beaten; put a layer of it over each steak; roll and tie them with thread; fry them lightly in beef dripping; put them in a stew-pan with some good brown gravy, a glass of white wine, and a little cayenne; thicken it with a little flour and butter; cover the pan closely, and let them stew gently an hour. Before serving, add a table-spoonful of mushroom catsup; garnish with cut pickles.

DRESSED BEEF STEAKS.

Cut thin steaks, longer than they are broad, off a rump; beat them with a rolling-pin; season them with pepper, salt, and finely minced onions; roll and tie them with thread; cut them even at the ends; fry them brown with a little butter; make a sauce with a piece of butter browned with flour, some gravy or water, a minced onion, pepper, and salt; boil it, and add the steaks, and let them stew an hour. Before serving, add some mushroom catsup, and take off the threads.

BEEF STEAKS WITH POTATOES.

Cut some this slices off a rump of beef; beat and season them with a little pepper and salt; dip them into a little melted butter, that the gravy may not drop out whilst they are broiling. When done, serve them with the following mixture laid underneath; - Some finely-chopped parsley, a little butter, pepper, salt, and lemon; and put, all round the dish, potatoes fried of a fine brown colour.

BEEF BALLS.

Mince very finely a piece of tender beef,. fat and lean; mince an onion, with some boiled parsley; add grated bread crumbs, and season with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and lemon-peel; mix all together, and moisten it with a beaten egg; roll it into balls; flour and fry them in boiling fresh dripping. Serve them with fried bread crumbs, or with a thickened gravy.

MINCED COLLOPS.

Cut two pounds of lean tender beef into thin slices – it is best taken from off the rump, or round; mince it very finely; brown two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, dredging it with a little four, then add the minced meat, and keep beating it with a beater till of a nice brown colour. Have ready some highly-seasoned beef gravy, which, with the minced collops, put into a sauce-pan, and let it stew half an hour; and just before serving, put a table-spoonful of mushroom catsup, and, if liked, some green pickles. Beef-suet is as often used as butter to fry the collops in.

ANOTHER WAY TO MAKE MINCED COLLOPS.

Mince any piece of lean or tender been very finely, with one or two onions previously cut small and parboiled; season with pepper and salt; brown in a sauce-pan a table-spoonful of butter; add the minced meat; beat it with a beater till it is of a light brown colour, then dust in a little flour, and add about half a pint of gravy or water, with half a table-spoonful of vinegar. Cover the sauce-pan closely, and let it stew gently for half an hour. A little before serving, add a table-spoonful of mushroom catsup. The gravy may be made with the parings and stringy part of the beef. When the flavour of onions is disliked, boil some whole small onions, and garnish the dish with them. Minced collops may be kept some weeks packed closely into a jar, after being fried without any onions, and covered with clarified butter. When to be dressed, follow the above directions.

SHORT, OR SPICED BEEF.      (To be Eaten Cold)

Hang up ten or twelve pounds of the middle part of a brisket of beef for three or four days; then rub well into it three ounces of finely-powered saltpeter, and if spice is approved of, one ounce of allspice, and half an ounce of black pepper; let it stand all night, then salt it with three pounds of well-pounded bay salt, and half a pound of treacle, in which let it remain ten days, rubbing it daily. When it is to be boiled, sew it closely in a cloth; let the water only simmer, upon no account allowing it to boil, for nine hours over a slow fire, or upon a stove. When taken out of the water, place two sticks across the pot, and let the beef stand over the steam for half an hour, turning it from side to side; then press it with a heavy weight. It must not be taken out of the cloth till perfectly cold. 

TO SALT NEATS’ TONGUES.

Salt two tongues, and turn them every day for four or five days; then rub them with two ounces of common salt, one of brown sugar, and half an ounce of saltpeter; turn them daily, and in a fortnight they may be used.

The best sort of vessel for salting then in is an earthenware pan, as wide at top as bottom, so that the tongues may lie in it long-ways.

TO SALT BEEF FOR IMMEDIATE USE.

Salt a round of beef moderately upon the top and sides; put it upon sticks, or the tongs of a cheese-tub, over a tub of cold water, and the salt will be drawn through it, so that it well be fit for boiling the next day.

ANOTHER METHOD.

Is, to rub for half an hour into any piece of beef a good quantity of salt, and let it lie for three or four days without touching it, when it may by used.

PICKLE FOR BEEF.

Allow to four gallons of water two pounds of brown sugar and six pounds of bay salt; boil it about twenty minutes, taking off the scum as it rises; the following day pour it over the meat which has been packed into the pickling-tub. Boil it up every two months, adding three ounces of brown sugar and half a pound of common salt. By this means it will keep good a year. The meat must be sprinkled with salt, and next day wiped dry, before pouring the pickle over it, with which it should always be completely covered. With the addition of two ounces of saltpeter and one pound of bay salt, this pickle answers for pickled pork, hams, and tongues. The tongues should be rubbed with common salt, to cleanse them, and afterwards with a little saltpeter, and allowed to lie for four or five days before they are put into the pickle. The meat will be ready for use in eight or ten days, and will keep for three months.

TO COLLAR BEEF.

Cut off the end of a brisket of beef, and bone it; sprinkle it with salt and saltpeter, and let it lie a week; mix together some grated nutmeg, Jamaica and black pepper, some chopped lemon thyme, sweet marjoram, and parsley; strew it over the meat, roll it up hard, sew it in a cloth, put it into a large jar of water, tie it closely, and bake it in an oven; take it out of the jar, and press it with a heavy weight. When it is quite cold, take off the cloth, and keep it dry.

HESSIAN STEW.

Cut the root of a tongue into large pieces; lay it into a deep pan, rub well into it a handful of salt, pour over it some hot water, and stir it round; when cool enough, scour it well with the hands, and wash it thoroughly in cold water; when perfectly clean, dust it with flour; fry it of a light brown, with a good quantity of small whole onions; put it into a digester, with a tea-cupful of strong beer; rinse out the pan with boiling water, put it to the meat, with three quarts more of hot water, a head or two of garlic, some sliced carrots and turnips; season with ground black, Jamaica, and cayenne pepper, three cloves, and some salt; let it stew three or four hours. Half an hour before serving, take out the meat and some of the soup for gravy, add more spices, and of mushroom catsup, soy, walnut-pickle, and coratch, a table-spoonful each, and three of port wine; boil it all together, thicken the sauce with butter rolled in flour, and garnish with sippets of thin toasted bread cut into a three-cornered shape. The soup that is left may be strained, and served clear, or with vegetables that have been previously boiled.

OX TAIL A LA MATELOTE.

Cut an ox tail into pieces, and blanch it in boiling water; put it into fresh water and parboil it; then make a sauce with a spoonful of four and a bit of butter, moistening it with a little of the liquor in which the tail was boiled; put into it the pieces of the tail, with a dozen whole onions from which the outer skin has been taken; add a glass of white wine, a bunch of parsley and cibol, a clove of garlic, a laurel leaf, and some basil and thyme, two cloves, salt, and pepper; let them stew gently till the meat and onions are done, taking care to skim them well. Put into the sauce an anchovy cut, a tea-spoonful of whole capers; place the pieces of the tail in the middle of the dish, and put the onions round and over them; garnish with seven or eight bits of fried bread the size of a crown piece, and being ready to serve, pour the strained sauce over it.

TO STEW BEEF-STEAKS.

Fry the steaks in a little butter; take them out of the pan, and fry in it a minced onion; return the steaks, with a little boiling water or gravy, some pepper, salt, and a table-spoonful of vinegar; stew them gently for two or three hours; thicken the sauce with butter rolled in flour, and serve with or without pickles.

DUTCH BEEF.

Rub on a beef heart two ounces of common salt, half an ounce of saltpeter, an ounce and a half of coarse brown sugar, and a little bay salt; turn and rub it every day for nine days, then hang it in the kitchen to dry, when it will become quite hard. When required for use, cut off a small bit, boil, and when cold, grate it. It may be served with curled butter over it.

SCOTS COLLOPS.

Cut any piece of tender lean beef into slices; beat them; brown some butter and flour in a sauce-pan; put in the beef, with some salt, pepper, and a finely-minced onion – half a minced apple is an improvement; add a little hot water; cover the pan closely, and let them stew till tender.

ANOTHER WAY TO MAKE SCOTS COLLOPS.

Cut some very thin slices of beef; rub with butter the bottom of an iron stew-pan that has a cover to fit quite closely; put in the meat, some pepper, and a little salt, a large onion, and an apple minced very small. Cover the stew–pan, and let it simmer till the meat is very tender. Serve it hot.

BEEF RISSOLES.

Chop finely a pound of lean tender beef, and a quarter of a pound of beef-suet; pound them in a marble mortar; mix with it a quarter of a pound of grated bread, a little onion, and a head of garlic bruised; season with salt and pepper; bind it with three eggs well beaten; make it up into small cakes; fry them of a light brown, then stew them in gravy for fifteen or twenty minutes.

TO STEW A TONGUE.

Wash it very clean, and rub it well with common salt and a little saltpeter; let it lie two or three days, and then boil it till the skin will pull off. Put it into a sauce-pan, with part of the liquor it has been boiled in, and a pint of good stock. Season with black and Jamaica pepper, and two or three pounded cloves; add a glass of white wine and a table-spoonful of mushroom catsup, and one of lemon pickle; thicken the sauce with butter rolled in flour, and pour it over the tongue.

PICKELD TONGUE GLAZED AND BIGARREE.

Boil a large tongue till it be tender; skin and glaze it, and serve it with mashed turnips on one side, and mashed carrots, or carrots and spinach, on the other.

BEEF TONGUE TO ROAST.

Put it to stew with some roots; a laurel leaf, some basil, onion, a bunch of cibol, parsley and thyme, pepper, salt, and a clove, and gravy sufficient to moisten the meat; when it has stewed slowly for three hours, take off the skin and lard it delicately; then roast it on a spit., and serve under it clear gravy, to which a little vinegar is added.

ANOTHER WAY TO ROAST A BEEF TONGUE.

Wash it well, and soak it for two hours; sprinkle salt over it, and drain it in a cullender for two hours; then boil it slowly for two hours, take off the skin, roast it, and baste with butter. Serve with brown gravy and currant jelly sauce.

TONGUE IN A SHAPE.

Cut off the root of a pickled tongue, soak it, roll it tightly with the tip inwards; put it into a mould, the top of which must be placed in, and pressed down with a weight; boil it six or seven hours, and let it remain in the mould till cold. Garnish with parsley.

BEEF A LA MODE.

Take the bone out of a small round of fine ox beef; cut some fat bacon in long strips, dip them into common and shallot vinegar mixed, and roll them in the following seasoning: - Grated nutmeg, black and Jamaica pepper, one or two cloves, and some salt, parsley, chives, lemon thyme, knotted marjoram, and savory, shred quite small. Lard the beef very thickly, bind it firmly with tape, and rub the outside with seasoning. Put it into a sauce-pan, with the rind of a lemon, four large onions, the red part of three or four carrots, and two turnips cut into dice, and a tea-cupful of strong ale and one of vinegar; let it stew for six or eight hours turning it two or three times. Half an hour before serving, take out the beef and vegetables, skim off the fat, strain the sauce, and thicken it with a little flour and water mixed smooth; add a tea-cupful of port wine return it all into the pot, and let it boil.

ANOTHER BEEF A LA MODE.

Rub well into a piece of the thick flank of ox beef, two or three ounces of saltpeter, and half a pound of brown sugar; let it lie for twenty-four hours, then salt it with common salt. And let it lie for ten days or a fortnight; wash the brine from it, and fillet it firmly. Prepare a stuffing of chopped parsley, anchovy, mace, black and Jamaica pepper, and a little butter; make holes every here and there with a large knife, and stuff them with the above mixture. Put it into a pan that will just hold it, and fill it up with cold water; add some whole black pepper, and cover it with a flour-and-water paste; bake it for some hours. When cold, take off the crust and all the fat, and keep the beef in the pan.

BAKED BEEF.

Mix together three quarters of a pound of common salt, half an ounce of saltpeter, and two ounces of sugar; rub it well into ten pounds of a fore rib of beef; let it lie a fortnight, basting it daily; smoke it for three weeks in a chimney where saw-dust is burnt; wash it very clean; put it into a deep earthen-pan; cover it with a coarse flour-and-water paste, and bake it for three or four hours in an oven.

HASHED BEEF.

Cut the beef into small thin slices, free from fat and skin; put the trimmings, and part of the bones, into a sauce-pan, with two large onions sliced, a little vinegar, and about a pint of stock; let it simmer for an hour, strain it, and skim off the fat; put an ounce of butter into a sauce-pan, and when it melts, shake in a spoonful of flour; stir it for two or three minutes, then add the strained gravy; stir it till it boil, put in a little catsup, and add the beef; let is simmer to make hot, but it must not be allowed to boil. If the bones are to be served with the hash, score, and season them with pepper and salt; put them into a tin pan, with a little bit of butter here and there; heat them in a Dutch oven, and then broil them on a gridiron to brown them well.

TO DRESS COLD ROAST BEEF.

Cut into dice some under-done beef; dredge it with flour and fry it for three or four minutes in butter, with an onion, a little parsley, and a sprig of lemon thyme minced; put it into a sauce-pan, with some well-seasoned gravy, a tea-spoonful of vinegar, and one of mushroom catsup; simmer it for half an hour. Serve it with poached eggs laid upon the top.

FRICANDELANS.

Mince about two pounds of tender lean beef, and three quarter of a pound of fresh suet; then pound it till it be as smooth as a paste, and carefully pick out all the threads and sinews; add four well-beaten eggs, half a pint of rich cream, and as much grated and sifted bread as will make it sufficiently consistent to form into rolls resembling corks, and season it with salt, black and Jamaica pepper. Boil the corks in some good stock, or in boiling water.

BEEF GOBBETS.

Cut a piece of beef into small bits; season them with pepper, salt, grated lemon-peel, and nutmeg, some parsley and shallot finely chopped; fry them brown in butter, and stew them till tender in a rich brown gravy, adding a table-spoonful of vinegar and one of port wine. Put thickly over them grated bread, seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little butter, and brown them with a salamander.

TO DRESS THE INSIDE OF A COLD SIRLOIN OF BEEF.

Cut off the meat, with a little of the fat, into strips three inches long and half an inch thick; season with pepper and salt, dredge them with flour, and fry them brown in butter; then simmer them in a rich brown gravy; add of mushroom catsup, onion, and shallot vinegar, a table-spoonful each. Garnish with fried parsley.

ANOTHER WAY TO DRESS THE INSIDE OF A COLD SIRLOIN OF BEEF.

Cut off entire the inside of a large sirloin of beef; brown it all over in a stew-pan, then add a quart of water, half a pint of port wine, a tea-cupful of strong beer, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, some pepper, salt, and a large onion, finely minced; cover the pan closely, and let it stew till the beef be very tender. Garnish with pickles.

TO ROAST BEEF HEART.

Wash it well, and clean all the blood carefully from the pipes; parboil it ten or fifteen minutes in boiling water; drip the water from it; put in a stuffing which has been made of bread crumbs, minced suet or butter, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, and parsley, seasoned with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Put it down to roast while hot, baste it well with butter, froth it up, and serve it with melted butter and vinegar; or with gravy in the dish, and currant jelly in a sauce-tureen. To hash it, follow the directions given for hare.

TO BOIL TRIPE.

Clean it extremely well, and take off the fat; let it lie a night in salt and water; again wash it well, and let it lie in milk and water for the same length of time; then cut it into small pieces, roll and tie them with thread; put them, with a clean-washed marrow-bone, into a linen bag; tie it closely, fill it up with water, and let it boil gently for six hours. Take the tripe out of the bag, put it into a jar, and pour over it the liquor in which it was boiled. When to be dressed, boil some whole small onions in a part of the liquor, add a little salt, then put in the tripe, and heat it thoroughly.

Or it may be fried in butter; fricasseed, or stewed in brown sauce.

Instead of being boiled in a bag, the tripe may be put, with some salt and whole pepper, into a stoneware jar, which must have a piece of linen tied over it, and a plate laid upon the top. The pot should always be kept full of boiling water, taking care that it do not boil into the jar.

TO ROAST TRIPE.

Cut the tripe into two oblong pieces, make a forcemeat of bread crumbs and chopped parsley, seasoned with pepper and salt; bind it with the yolks of two eggs; spread it upon the fat side of the tripe, and lay on the other fat side; then roll it tightly, and tie it with packthread. Roast, and baste it with butter; it will take one hour, or one hour and a half. Serve it with melted butter, into which put a table-spoonful of catsup and one of lemon pickle.

TO FRY TRIPE.

Cut it into bits three or four inches square; make a batter, thicker than for pancakes, of three eggs beaten up with flour and milk, a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg; dip in the tripe, and fry it in butter, or fresh dripping, of a light brown colour. Serve it garnished with parsley. Sauce: - Melted butter with the lemon pickle in it.

TO BOIL MARROW BONES.

Saw them even at the bottom; butter and flour some bits of linen, and tie a piece over the top of each bone; boil them for an hour or two, take off the linen, and serve them with thin slices of dry toast cut into square bits. At table, the marrow should be put upon the toast, and a little pepper and salt sprinkled over it.

MOCK HARE.

Cut the lean meat from the inside of a sirloin of beef; soak it eight-and-forty hours in a tea-cupful of port wine and a glass of vinegar; cut it open, lard it, and make a stuffing as for hare, using the raw liver of a fowl; lay it on the meat, roll and tie it tightly, and roast it by hanging jack. Baste it with the liquor in which it was soaked, adding a little more port wine and vinegar, and mixing with it nearly a tea-spoonful of pounded allspice. Serve it with some good gravy in the dish, and currant jelly in a sauce-tureen.

A FILLET OF BEEF.

Bone a middle rib of beef weighing about fifteen pounds; roll the meat tightly and firmly, and skewer it. Roast and garnish it in the same manner as a sirloin.

BURGESS’S METHOD OF BOILING HUNG BEEF.

Hung beef for grating should be put on in boiling water, and, to preserve the colour, kept boiling as fast as possible. Allow for six pounds of beef one hour and a half. It will keep good for a length of time.

SCARLET BEEF.

Mix a little mace, cloves, allspice, black pepper, and saltpetre together; rub it well into two pounds of tender lean beef; let it lie six days, turning it daily, and rubbing it with the pickle; then roll and tie it firmly with tape; put it and the pickle into a small jar, with a slice or two of beef-suet under and over it; tie it closely, and bake it an hour. It is eaten cold, cut in thin slices, and garnished with parsley. If long kept, the colour fades.

SPRING-GARDEN BEEF.

Cut a piece of lean tender beef into thick slices; lard and season them with pepper, salt, and sweet herbs; pour over them a little port wine, and stew them in weak stock, with one or two bay leaves, till tender; strain the sauce; thicken it with flour and butter. Heat it up, and pour it over the slices of beef.

BUBBLE AND SQUEAK.

Chop small some boiled white cabbage; season it with pepper and salt, and fry it with a little butter; pepper and broil some slices of cold boiled salted beef; put the fried cabbage into a dish, and lay round it the slices of broiled beef, and serve it very hot. The beef does best when under-done.

SALT BEEF PUDDING OR DEBRIS PUDDING.

Mash a few boiled potatoes with a little salt, milk, and a good bit of butter; mince very finely the lean part of some cold boiled salted beef, mix it with the mashed potatoes, and brown it in a Dutch oven in the same way that a salt-fish pudding is done.

This pudding may be made of the remains of a piece of boiled beef, allowing to one pound of the beef one pound and a quarter of potatoes. 

TO CURE HUNG BEEF.

Rub a small quantity of salt on eight ribs of the thin part of the beef, and let it lie three days; pound two ounces of saltpetre, and two ounces of brown sugar, and rub it well into the beef; turn it every day, and if it become slimy, strew over it a little common salt, but let it be very little; lay it upon a sloping board, that the brine may run off. Let it lie a fortnight, and hang it up to dry, but not too near the fire, nor in a warm kitchen, as it would then soon grow rancid.

BEEF OR MUTTON BAKED WITH POTATOES.

Boil some potatoes; peel, and pound them in a mortar, with one or two small onions; moisten them with milk and an egg beaten up; add a little salt and pepper. Season slices of beef, or mutton chops, with salt and pepper, and more onion, if the flavour is approved; rub the bottom of a pudding-dish with butter, and put a layer of the mashed potatoes, which should be thick as a batter, and then a layer of meat, and so on alternately till the dish is filled, ending with potatoes. Bake it in an oven for an hour.

OLIVE ROYALS.

Boil one pound of potatoes, and when nearly cold, rub them perfectly smooth with four ounces of flour and one ounce of butter, and knead it together till it become a paste; roll it out about a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into rounds, and lay upon one side any sort of cold roasted meat cut into thin small bits, and seasoned with pepper and salt; put a very small bit of butter over it, wet the edges, and close the paste in the form of a half circle. Fry them in boiling fresh dripping of a light brown colour; lay them before the fire, on the back of a sieve, to drain. Serve them with or without gravy in the dish. For a change, mince the meat, and season it as before directed. The potatoes should be very mealy.

BEEF AND OTHER SAUSAGES.

Scald three quarters of a pint of oyster in their own liquor; take them out and chop them finely; mince one pound of beef and mutton, and three quarters of a pound of beef suet; add the oysters, and season with salt, pepper, mace, and two cloves pounded; beat up two eggs, and mix them well with the other ingredients, and pack it closely into a jar. When to be used, roll it into the form of small sausages; dip them into the yolk of an egg beaten up; strew grated bread crumbs over them, or dust with flour, and dry them in fresh dripping. Serve them upon fried bread, hot.

HAMBURG BEEF.

Put on in cold water a brisket of beef; when it boils skim it well; take out the beef, let it cool, and then rub it well with three handfuls of salt, and two tea-spoonfuls of saltpetre; beat it well with a rolling-pin for twenty or thirty minutes; put it into a pickling-tub, strew over it a small handful of salt, lit it lie four days; then turn it, put the same quantity of salt, and let if lie four days more, after which sew it into a piece of old linen, and let it hang twelve days in smoke.

TO BOIL OX CHEEK.

Wash very clean half a head; let it lie in cold water all night; break the bone in two, taking care not to break the flesh. Put it on in a pot of boiling water, and let it boil from two to three hours; take out the bone. Serve it with boiled carrots and turnips, or savoys. The liquor the head has been boiled in may be strained and made into Scots barley broth, or Scots kale.

TO STEW OX CHEEK.

Clean the head, as before directed, and parboil it; take out the bone; stew it in part of the liquor in which it was boiled, thickened with a piece of butter mixed with flour, and browned. Cut into dice, or into any fancy shape, carrots and turnips, as much, when cut, as will fill a pint basin. Mince two or three onions, add the vegetables, and season with salt, black and Jamaica pepper. Cover the pan closely, and stew it two hours. A little before serving, add a glass of port wine or ale.

DRESSED OX CHEEK.

Prepare it as directed for stewing. Cut the met into square pieces; make a sauce with a quart of good gravy, thickened with butter mixed with flour; season with salt, black and Jamaica pepper, a little cayenne, and a table-spoonful of vinegar. Put in the head, and simmer it till quite tender. A few minutes before serving, add a little catsup or white wine. Forcemeat balls may be added.

POTTED OX CHEEK.

May be made of the meat that is left from any one of these dishes. It is cut into small bits, or minced and heated up with a little of the liquor in which the cheek was boiled, seasoned with black and Jamaica pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little lemon juice or vinegar, then put into a mould, and turned out when required for use. It is used for supper or luncheon, and is eaten with mustard and vinegar.

Many excellent and economical dishes are made of an ox cheek; and it is particularly useful in large families.

TO DRESS KIDNEYS AND SKIRTS.

Wash the kidneys, cut them into slices; take the skin off the skirts, and cut them into small pieces; dust them with flour, and fry them brown in butter. Simmer them an hour in a pint of gravy, with an onion finely minced, some salt and pepper. A little before serving, add a table-spoonful of mushroom catsup. They may be broiled and eaten like a beef-steak.

TO DRESS PALATES AND SWEETBREADS.

Boil the palates till the black skin can be easily peeled off; parboil the sweet breads with them; skin and cut the palates into pieces, and if the sweetbreads are large, cut them in two the long way; dust them with flour, and fry them of a light brown, in butter; then stew them in rather more than a pint of the liquor in which they were boiled. Brown a piece of butter with flour; add it, with a little cayenne, salt, pepper, grated lemon-peel, and nutmeg, and a glass of white wine. A little before serving, stir in a spoonful of vinegar, or the squeeze of a lemon.

BEEF PALATES.

Parboil, skin, and cut the palates into strips; fry an onion in butter, and add the palates and a bunch of sweet herbs; moisten them with some well-seasoned stock, and when sufficiently done, add a little mustard.

BLANQUETTE OF PALATES OF BEEF.

Boil, in weak broth or water, six or eight nicely cleaned beef palates, and when the black skin will easily peel off, they are done enough; then skin and cut them into pieces the size of a shilling, and stew them in a sauce tournee. Serve them in a casserole of rice, or a vol au vent.

TO BROIL BEEF-STEAKS.

Cut the steaks off a rump or the ribs of a fore-quarter; beat them well with a rolling-pin. Have the gridiron perfectly clean and heated over a clear quick fire; lay on the steaks, and with meat tongs keep turning them constantly, till they are done enough; throw a little salt over them a little before taking them off the fire. Serve them as hot as possible, plain, or with a made grave and sliced onion, or rub a bit of butter upon the steaks the moment of serving. The dish may be garnished with bits of fat, which should be done apart from the steaks, that the dripping of the grease may not smoke the meat.

Mutton chops are broiled in the same manner.

OX-FEET OR COW-FEET.

Wash them well; boil them in plenty of water, till the hoofs come off, and the hair can be pulled off, and scraped clean; wash them well, and boil them in fresh water till all the bones can be easily taken out. To pot them, cut them into small pieces, add a little of the liquor, heat it, and season it with some salt and vinegar; put it into a mould, and when it becomes cold, turn it out. It is eaten with vinegar and mustard. They may be served without being out small, either hot or cold; if hot, serve with thick parsley and butter.

ANOTHER OX-FEET OR COW-FEET.

Cut them into small bits; dip them into the yolk of an egg beaten up; roll them in bread crumbs, seasoned with pepper, salt, and minced parsley; fry them in butter. Cut into thin slices a good dish of onions, fry them in butter, and serve them hot, with the fried heel laid upon them. The liquor may be made into jelly, or used to enrich sauces and gravies.

OX-BLOOD PUDDINGS.

Let the blood run into a deep pan; stir it all the time, and when it is nearly cold, throw in a little salt; rub it through a hair sieve; mix a pint of milk with two quarts of blood. Chop some suet, mix it with minced onion, pepper, salt, and two or three handfuls of oatmeal; then add the blood and milk. To clean the pudding skins, wash them thoroughly and let them lie a night in salt water. When they are to be filled, tie one end, and turn the inside out; half fill them, and tie them in rings, or in equal lengths. When the water boils, throw in a little cold, to put it off the boil, and put in the puddings. In five minutes, put them upon a dish, and prick them with a large needle; return them into the pot, and boil them half an hour. Hang them up in a dry cool place, to keep them. When they are to be used, put them on in hot water for ten or fifteen minutes, and then broil them.

MEAL PUDDINGS.

Sift a pound of oatmeal, chop three quarters of a pound of suet, mince some onions, and mix all together; season well with pepper and salt; half fill the skins, and boil and dress them as directed in the receipt for ox-blood puddings.

Some people think a little sugar an improvement.

OX-LIVER PUDDINGS.

Boil the liver and grate it; mix, in equal quantities, grated liver, grated bread, and minced suet; season well with black and Jamaica pepper, a little grated nutmeg, salt, and a glass of rum. Half fill the skins, and manage them in the same way as the other puddings. Some persons use double the quantity of suet.

APPLE PUDDINGS IN SKINS.

Pare, core, and mince a pound of apples; grate a pound of bread, or the same quantity of pounded biscuit; mince half a pound of suet; mix all together with half a pound of brown sugar, and a quarter of a pound of cleaned currants; season with half a grated nutmeg, four cloves pounded, a little grated lemon-peel, and four table-spoonfuls of white wine. Half fill the skins; boil them for fifteen minutes taking care to prick them well. When they are to be used, boil them for a few minutes, and brown them in a Dutch oven.

CURRANT PUDDINGS IN SKINS.

Clean and dry half a pound of currants; stone and mince a quarter of a pound of raisins; of pounded beef suet, grated bread, and brown sugar, three quarters of a pound each. Mix all these ingredients well, season with grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, and two or three cloves pounded, and a little wine. Half fill the skins, and do them the same as the apple puddings.

BEEF HAM.

Rub a little common salt over a piece of beef of about twenty pounds weight; take out the bone, and in one or two days, rub well into the beef the following ingredients, finely pounded and well mixed: - Two ounces of sal-prunella, four ounces of brown sugar, six ounces of bay salt, one ounce of white pepper, and of cloves and nutmeg a quarter of an ounce each; then strew over it half a pound of common salt. Let it lie fifteen days, turning it daily. It is then hung up; or when taken out of the pickle, it may be boiled, and allowed to stand till cold in the water in which it was boiled or it may be baked in a deep dish, covered with a coarse paste. 


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