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In the
following directions for the culture of Kitchen Vegetables, none are
included which, in the climate of Britain, require the aid of artificial
heat to bring them to maturity; as it is presumed, that when such are
desired, an educated professional gardener will be employed, to whom the
instructions here submitted, as they must necessarily be of a limited
nature, might possibly be of little use. But it is confidently
anticipated, that the directions which are given, if closely followed,
will be found sufficient, in ordinary cases, to produce the desired
result.
In
choosing the situation most suitable for a kitchen garden, it will be
necessary to regard the aspect, or exposure of the ground; a southern
exposure being always considered much better than any other; and a gentle
declivity in that direction being very desirable. It should be screened to
the north and west by a plantation of forest trees; and, on these sides,
the trees may be less than a hundred yards from the garden; but to the
south and east, there should be no tall trees, at least within a
considerable distance. It is necessary, also, that there should be a
sufficient supply of water within reach; and standing, or soft water, is
always to be preferred to that taken immediately from a spring or well.
The best
general soil for a garden is a loam of a middling quality, partaking more
of the sandy than the clayey nature. If a strong and a light soil can both
be had, it will be so much the better, as the different plant may thus
have the ground adapted to their respective kinds.
CABBAGES.
The best
soil for cabbages is rich mould, rather clayey than sandy; and it can
scarcely be too much manured, as they are an exhausting crop. The kinds
generally preferred for summer use are, the small early dwarf, large curly
Yorkshire, early dwarf Yorkshire, early Battersea, and early sugarloaf.
These are ready for use from April or May to July; for autumn and winter,
the imperial, large sugar-loaf, hollow sugar-loaf, and the long or
large-sided. The large Drum, white Strasburg, the Scots, and the American
cabbage, resist the severity of winter, and grow to a very large size; but
they are coarse kinds. The time of sowing for the summer crop is the
beginning of the August of the proceeding year. An open spot of rich light
earth must be chosen, and the seeds of this, and of all the kale tribe,
require a covering of no more than an eighth, or a quarter of an inch, in
thickness of mould, In about six or eight weeks after the sowing, or when
the plants have got several leaves, they are thinned; and those plants
taken out of the seed-bed are pricked into other beds, at three inches
distance every way. By these means, they have room to grow firm and
shapely. In October and November, part of this crop is finally planted
out, the remainder early in the following spring; and the plants are set
in rows between two and three feet wide, and two feet asunder in the rows.
As the cabbages advance, the earth in the rows must be stirred, and drawn
round the plants; indeed the oftener the earth is stirred, the better will
be the crop. In the end of April or beginning of May, the early cabbages
begin to turn in their leaves, and to harden in the centre, when, if the
leaves be bound close with willow twigs, or strands of bass-matting, they
will be fit for use a fortnight the earlier. If the roots and stems of a
portion of this crop be allowed to remain after the tops are cut off, and
the ground delved, and perhaps manured in autumn, very fine cabbages will
be produced in the January and February following. For autumn and winter
use, the seeds of cabbages are sown in the end of February or beginning of
March, pricked out into shady borders in May, and allowed to remain there
for some weeks. In June, they are finally transplanted, at the same
distance as the early kinds. These cabbages come to be fit for use in the
autumn months, and continue good, in sheltered situations, and in ordinary
seasons, till February or March. Of the red cabbages, the dwarf dark-red
kind is considered the best; it may be sown about the end of August, and
planted out in the beginning of April. The white Strasburg is the variety
of which the Germans chiefly make their sour krout. The long or
large-sided cabbage, being rather tender, should not be sown till May, nor
planted out till July.
SAVOYS.
The
principal sorts are the yellow and the green; the green being considered
the hardiest. They are sown about the middle of April, and planted out in
June, considerably closer than the common cabbage. If savoys be wanted
before winter, the seed must be sown in February, or even in the autumn
before; in the last case, fine large plants will be ready for the table in
September or October. The later crop affords a supply till February or
March. Savoys are reckoned better when somewhat pinched by the frost.
If
cabbages be planted, year after year, in the same ground, they will become
sickly and stunted; it is therefore advisable to change the cabbage ground
every year.
OPEN
KALE.
Young
plants of the common cabbage are now generally used as colworts; for this
purpose, either the sugar-loaf or the large York is sown about the middle
or end of June, and planted out in the end of July, or beginning of
August, to be ready for use in winter.
SCOTS
KALE.
Is sown
in the beginning of July; and in the course of the month of August, the
young plants are set out in rows a foot and a half wide, and ten inches
distance in the rows. This green will not be tender until it has endured
some sharp frosts. When kale is planted out, it will be necessary to give
water to the roots, should the weather be dry; no other attention is
requisite, except that of drawing the earth to the stems before winter.
BRUSSELS SPROUTS.
Are sown
in March or April; the seedlings planted out in June preferring showery
weather, or watering carefully at the root; they are earthed up in
October, and are ready for use by midwinter. As they grow upright, they
may be planted closer than other kinds of greens.
CAULIFLOWER.
The seed
of the early crop of cauliflower is sown about the 20th of the
August of the proceeding year in beds. In September the seedlings are
pricked into a dry border, near a wall, where they may be hooped over, and
defended with bass mats, during the severe frosts of winter. In the month
of March they are finally planted out, giving water liberally now and
afterwards, should the weather be dry. They are planted in rows about two
feet and a half asunder, and two feet apart in the rows; but they must
have repeated hoeings, and the earth must be drawn close up to the roots
and stems. To diversify the time of forming heads, some of the early
cauliflowers are planted out on different successive occasions.
Cauliflower will thrive the better that it have liberal supplies of the
cleanings of the stable and cow-house.
BROCOLI.
There are
many varieties of broccoli; but the most useful kinds are the dwarf
sulphur-coloured, and the kind called green broccoli. For the autumn crop,
the seed is sown in April, and planted out in the beginning of June. For a
spring crop in the following year, the seed is sown late in May, or even
in June; the seedlings are afterwards placed in Nursery-beds, where they
remain till the middle or end of July, when they are finally transplanted
in lines, two feet asunder, and a foot and a half apart in the lines.
Water is given in dry weather; and they are hoed and earthed up like
cauliflower. The heads of winter broccoli generally appear early in
January, and continue till April. A light and deep, but rich soil, in an
open situation is to be preferred for them. Sea-weed is a useful manure
for broccoli, and will prevent the grubs infesting its roots.
KHOL-RABBI.
O the
khol-rabbi, or turnip-rooted cabbage, there are two varieties; the one
having the stem swelling above ground; the other having this turnip-like
protuberance in it. This plant may be cultivated in the same manner as
broccoli: it is very hardy.
TURNIP.
Most
sorts of turnip like a sandy soil not recently manured; but the yellow
Dutch turnip does best in good soil. For a spring crop, the early Dutch is
usually preferred; it may be sown broadcast, in the month of April, mixing
a little fine earth with the seed, to make it divide more equally. A small
sowing of this kind may be made every month from April to August, in order
to have them throughout the summer in a young state for the table. For a
winter crop, the yellow Dutch turnip is considered superior to any other
kind; it is sown thickly about the middle of July; and, if rain do not
occur, frequent watering will be necessary. When the root leaves are about
an inch broad, the young plants are thinned to within six or eight inches
distance from each other. To prevent the ravages of the turnip-fly, it is
advisable to dust quick-lime lightly over the crop while it is in the
seed-leaf. Should the young planted threaten to run to flower, they may be
trodden down, by gently placing the foot on the centre of the plant. If
turnips be allowed to remain in the ground throughout the winter, the top
leaves from excellent greens early in spring. The Swedish, the stone, and
the yellow, are all likewise good winter turnips.
CARROT
Carrots
thrive best in a light soil, with a mixture of sand; it should be delved
very deep, or even trenched, and, at the same time, well broken with the
spade. Pigeon’s dung added to the carrot ground promotes their health, by
preventing the attacks of insects; when any other manure is used, it
should be buried deep, the roots may not touch it. In general, it is best
to make the carrots the second crop after manuring. For the principal
crop, the orange carrot, or the red or field carrot, is preferred; it is
sown in March or April – in light soils not till the end of April or
beginning of May. The seeds must be rubbed between the hands with some dry
sand to separate them; and, as they are very light, a calm day must be
chosen; they should be trodden in before raking. When the plants come up,
several successive hoeings are given; at first with a three-inch, and
latterly with a six-inch hoe. The plants are thinned either by drawing
young plants for use, or by hoeing, till they are within eight or ten
inches of each other, if broadcast; but if in drills, which should be a
foot apart, till they are six or seven inches separate. If the hoeing is
not done in showery weather, a regular watering must be given after the
operation. For an early crop, the early horn-carrot is used; it is sown
before the first of February, in a warm border, which must be hooped over,
and covered with mats during frost. A bed of the late horn-carrot may be
sown in June or July, to afford young roots in the autumn months. Carrots
are taken up at the first approach of winter, cleaned, and stored up with
sand in a place that will exclude the frost.
PARSNIPS.
This
plant requires a stronger soil than the carrot; it prefers a light loam;
but any soil will do, provided it be pretty deep. The seed, which should
never be more than a year old, is sown in March; the plants are afterwards
thinned out to about eight or ten inches asunder, and are kept clear of
weeds. When the leaves begin to decay, the roots are fit for use. They may
be stored as carrots; or, as frost will not injure them, they may be
allowed to remain in the ground till the beginning of February, but not
longer, as then the flower-stalks begin to form, when the roots would
become stringy.
SCORZONERA.
The seeds
of scorzonera are sown in the middle of April, in a cool deep soil, in
drills about a foot separate. Afterwards the plants are thinned out to
within four inches apart. The roots may be either lifted in November, and
stored as carrots, or they may remain in the ground all winter.
SALSIFY.
Salsify
is sown in April, and afterwards thinned to within six or eight inches
apart. A mellow and deep soil affords the best plants. The roots may
remain in the ground, and be taken up as wanted throughout the winter.
SKIRRET.
A light
deep soil is most suitable for the skirret, and should it be naturally
moist, so much the better. In dry soils, or in long-continued droughts,
watering is advisable. The seeds are sown in April, and repeated thinning
and hoeing are necessary. When the leaves begin to decay in autumn, the
roots are fit for use; they will not be injured by frost, and may
therefore remain in the ground till wanted.
RED
BEET.
Red beet
requires a light, but rich soil, of considerable depth, that has not been
recently manured. The ground should be trenched, or very deeply delved,
and broken small with the spade. The seed is sown in April, in drills an
inch deep, and fifteen inches asunder. In autumn, beet-root is generally
stored amongst sand in a cellar, or some place that will completely
exclude the frost. In lifting it, great care must be taken that the roots
be not anywise injured or broken, as they bleed much; for the same reason,
the leaves must be cut off at least an inch above the top of the root.
WHITE
BEET.
This kind
of beet is cultivated only for its leaves, which are used as spinach. The
seeds are sown in the beginning of March, in an open spot of ground. When
the plants have put out four leaves, they are hoed, and thinned out to at
least four inches asunder. A month afterwards a second hoeing is given,
leaving the plants about eight inches separate. The outer leaves being
first picked off for use, a succession is afforded for the whole season.
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.
This
plant is propagated by means of the tubers, which are cut in the manner of
potato-sets, and planted in any light soil and open situation, in the end
of March. They are placed in rows three feet asunder, and a foot or
fifteen inches apart in the rows. In September they are fit for use, and
may be left in the ground, and dug up as wanted throughout the winter,
being best when newly raised.
POTATO.
The
varieties of the potato are very numerous; and as no particular kind will
continue in perfection much more than fourteen years, new kinds are
continually succeeding those that have worm out. At present, for a summer
cop, the ash-leaved, early dwarf, and champion, are esteemed; and, for the
winter crop, the American, large and small, and the kidney, are excellent.
They will thrive in any light soil, in a free airy situation; and if
quantity of produce be particularly desired, too much manure can hardly be
given; but they will be of a more delicate flavour from ground not
recently enriched. The potato is propagated by cuts of the tubers, leaving
one or two eyes or buds to each cut, and eradicating all clustered eyes.
The best shaped and cleanest potatoes are selected for this purpose; and
the cuts are the better for being allowed to dry for a day or two before
planting. They are planted in drills, and covered to the depth of three or
four inches; and for the early crop, which may be planted in a light warm
border, about the beginning or middle of March, sixteen inches between the
lines, and seven or eight inches between each plant, is sufficient; but,
for the principal crop, which must be planted about the middle or end of
April, two feet is allowed between the rows, and from ten to fifteen
inches between the plants. The only attention the crop requires is hoeing,
and drawing the earth to the stems. The oftener this last operation is
performed, the greater will be the produce. The early planted potatoes
will be fit for use in June and July. Only a few of them should be taken
up at a time as they will not keep good beyond a day or two. In autumn the
principal crop will be known to be ripe, when the tops of the plants
change to a yellow colour; they should then be taken up, and stored in as
clean and dry a state as possible. The best way of keeping them is in
heaps on the ground, covering well with straw and earth, so as completely
to exclude the frost.
PEAS.
If peas
be sown in newly-enriched ground, they will be apt to run to haums; they
are therefore seldom sown till the second year after manuring. Some of the
early kinds, as the Charleton, golden, and Reading, are generally sown
towards the end of October, in front of the south wall; and if slightly
protected by means of branches of evergreens, or old peas-haum, the crop
will survive the winter, and produce young peas by the end of May. In
January and February, more of the early sorts are sown for a succession;
and in March and April, full crops of the later peas must be sown. Some of
the smaller late kinds, as the blue, Prussian, dwarf marrowfat, Spanish
dwarf, and leadman’s dwarf, if well earthed up, and the rows not too near
each other, may do without sticking. Of the large and late kinds, the tall
marrowfat, green marrowfat, grey rounceval, and the sugar pea, have long
retained their character. The large kinds require nearly four feet
distance between the rows. The young plants are frequently hoed; when they
are three or four inches high, the earth is drawn to the rows; and when
about eight or ten inches high, they must be sticked; the smallest kinds
may have sticks three feet, the early sorts and dwarf marrowfat five feet,
and the larger sorts seven or eight feet high. When branches for sticking
cannot be procured, two lines of strong packthread, on each side of the
rows, may be substituted. To prevent the attacks of mice, it is necessary
to be careful, in sowing peas, that none be left exposed on the surface of
the ground.
BEANS.
The early
sorts, such as the Mazagon and Lisbon, are sown in the end of October, in
front of a wall or hedge. The plants are earthed up in November, as they
advance; but, in earthing up beans, it is necessary to be very careful
that the earth do not fall on the centre of the plant. In severe frost
some haum or fern is laid over them. In March and April, as they begin to
show flower, they are kept close to the fence by means of packthread; and,
in order to forward the production of pods, when the lower blossoms begin
to fade, the tops of the stems are pinched off. In February and March,
full crops of the late and large beans, as the Windsor, Sandwich, and long
podded, are planted in drills two inches deep, allowing two and a half or
three feet between the rows.
KIDNEY, OR FRENCH BEAN.
The dwarf
kidney-bean requires no support from sticks, but, as it is tender, must be
sown before the middle or end of April; it may then be sown in drills,
from two to three feet asunder, and about three inches separate in the
lines, covering with something less than two inches of soil. As the plants
advance, they are hoed and cleared of weeds, a little earth being, at the
same time, drawn to the stems. The most esteemed kinds, must not be sown
till about the middle of May; and, as tall slight stakes must be placed
for it to climb upon, the distance between the rows is generally four
feet. The kidney-beans like a good, light, rich soil.
SPINACH.
There are
two kinds of spinach; the prickly-seeded, for winter, and the
smooth-seeded, for summer use. The winter crop is sown, either in drills,
or broadcast, in the beginning of August, when rains may be expected. A
light, dry, but rich soil, in a sheltered situation, is desirable. When
the plants show four leaves, the ground around them is hoed, and the
spinach moderately thinned; the hoeing is repeated as the weeds grow. In
February, when a few dry days may occur, the surface of the ground is
stirred, the plants cleaned, and again thinned out. With this mode of
treatment, and with due attention, the winter spinach should afford
successive gatherings from November, and, in mild weather, throughout the
winter, till April or May. The first sowing of the summer spinach is made
in a sheltered border in January. If sown broadcast, it is first thinned
out to three inches, and, at subsequent hoeings, to eight or ten inches
apart. Successive sowings are made in February, March, and April; and
these are at once thinned out to six or eight inches apart.
ASPARAGUS.
Asparagus
is of two kinds; the red-topped, with produces the larger shoots, and the
green-topped, which is considered of the more delicate flavour. The best
way of propagating asparagus is by means of seed. In the month of March it
is sown in shallow drills, six inches asunder, and earthed in from half an
inch to an inch deep. The young plants are kept as free of weeds as
possible during the summer; and in the end of October, some litter is
spread over the surface of the ground to protect them from frost. In the
following spring, about April, the seedlings are transplanted to the
quarter in which they are to remain. The soil of this quarter must not be
less than two and half feet deep; it should be light, but rich; damp
ground, or a wet subsoil, would be very unsuitable; nothing is better than
a sandy loam, well mixed with rotten dung, or sea-weed; and before
planting a bed, it should be well trenched over to the depth of the soil,
burying abundance of manure in the bottom. The seedling plants are
cautiously raised with a narrow pronged fork; and when they are taken up,
the roots are kept in a little earth till replanted – they being very apt
to be injured by exposure to the air. A trench, about six inches deep,
being prepared, the roots are carefully laid in, a foot distant from each
other, the buds or crowns being kept upright, and about two inches below
the surface. A foot between each ordinary trench is reckoned sufficient,
but between every four rows a double distance is left for an alley. In dry
weather, the new-planted beds should be carefully watered. Several
hoeings, generally three, are given in the course of the summer. In the
end of September, the haum decays, and is cut away; and small stable-dung
or sea-weed is spread on the bed, previously stirring the surface with a
fork. In spring, just before the buds begin to appear, the intervals of
the beds are slightly delved over with the narrow-pronged fork, raking
afterwards, with great delicacy of hand. The same practice, both for
autumn and spring, is observed for the second year, it being only in the
third year after planting out, or the fourth from the time of sowing, that
cutting for the table is begun. In April, a few shoots may generally be
cut; in May and June they will be plentiful. In the first productive
season, only the large shoots are taken but in subsequent years all the
shoots are gathered as they advance, till the end of the month of June.
Shoots, two inches under ground, and three or four above, are the best for
the table; and, in cutting them, some of the earth is first removed, in
order to avoid the succeeding buds below. An asparagus quarter should not
contain less than a fall of ground, as it often takes that quantity to
furnish a good dish at one time.
SEA-KALE.
The best
mode of propagating sea-kale is by sowing it. The soil intended for it
should be sandy and light, but mixed with fine rich mould; and of all
manures for his crop, drift-ware or sea-weed is the best. The ground must
be trenched at least two feet deep, and in March the seed is sown, about
two inches deep; they may be set in a triangular form, six inches apart,
leaving a space of two feet between the triangles. To ensure a produce, it
may be as well to drop in two or more seeds into each hole, and to thin
out afterwards the superfluous plants. For the first summer, no attention
will be required in the culture, except that of keeping the plants clear
of weeds. In November, the whole bed is covered with rotten stable-litter,
as is done with asparagus. During the second year, the same plan is
followed. In the third year, most of the plants will be strong enough to
be blanched for use; this is done by placing blanching covers over the
plants as soon as the leaves are decayed in the end of autumn, and then
covering up the whole bed with stable-dung, packing it closely between the
pots, and heaping it over the tops of them to the depth of six inches or
more. By this mode, the sea-kale will be fit for cutting in January and
February. If the heat of the litter at any time decline, which may be
easily ascertained by introducing a thermometer into several of the
blanching pots, some new stable-dung must be mixed with it. The blanching
pots, mentioned above, are made for the purpose; they have moveable covers
that fit down closely, and they are nearly as wide at top as at bottom, in
order to give room for cutting such shoots as may be ready, without
breaking the others. It is necessary to have from thirty to fifty of such
covers. A less expensive mode of blanching is, by covering the sea-kale
beds to the depth of a foot and a half with leaves as they fall from the
trees in autumn, adding, over all, a very slight layer of long
stable-litter, to prevent the leaves being blown about. In this manner the
shoots will be very sweet and tender; but they will not be produced so
early as by the former method.
ONIONS.
The soil
for onions should be light, and not recently manured; it should be well
delved and broken fine, and exactly leveled. There are several varieties
in use, but the Strasburg may be mentioned as being as good as any. For
the principal crop, the seed is sown in February or the beginning of
March; but, should the land be heavy, it is better to defer the sowing
till the end of March or beginning of April. The seed is sown broadcast; a
very slight covering of earth is given, and the ground is merely smoothed
over with the rake. A first hoeing is given when the plants have advanced
three or four inches in growth, and they are then thinned out with the
hand to about four inches apart. Another hoeing is given about a month or
six weeks afterwards, when the plants are singled out to about six inches
square. After this the hoe must never be used, but any large weeds must be
drawn out with the hand. If the weather be dry at the time of thinning, a
plentiful watering must immediately afterwards be given. About the end of
August, the crop will be known to be ripe by the leaves falling down. The
onions are then drawn, and laid out on a gravel walk in some dry spot, and
occasionally turned. In a fortnight they are generally found to be firm
enough for keeping, and must be stored in a dry garret or loft, excluding
them as much as may be from the air. The crop of winter onions is sown in
August or beginning of September; they are thinned in the usual way, and
weeds must be carefully kept down. In the spring, when the keeping onions
fail, part of these may be drawn for use; the remainder will be ready in
the early part of summer. About the month of May, any of the stalks which
appear to be pushing a flower-stem must be thrown out, and, to check this
tendency, the rest of this crop should be laid down, which is done by
passing the handle of a rake horizontally along the bed, so as to strike
the stems an inch or two above the bulb, and bend them flat down. Winter
onions thus managed may be taken up about the end of June, and are
generally firm, and keep long. For pickling, the small silver-skinned
variety is best; they should be sown pretty thickly about the middle of
April, in light and very poor land, as they are not required of a large
size for this purpose; they need not be thinned, unless when they rise
absolutely in cluster. They will be fit for use in August.
LEEK.
Leeks are
raised much in the same way as onions. There are three varieties of them;
the narrow-leaved or Flanders, the broad-leaved or tall London, and the
Scotch or flag-leek; this last is by much the most hardy. They are, about
the beginning of March, sown closely in beds, and in June or July are
planted out in rows, first trimming off the tips of the leaves and the
points of the fibrous roots. A good way is, to make a deep hole with a
dibble, and merely lay in the leek plant up to the leaves, without closing
the earth about it; this encourages the stem to swell and lengthen, while
at the same time it blanches it. But this plan may be adopted only in
moist weather, or the plants must be well watered, to ensure their taking
root. If the leaves be topped two or three times during the summer, the
leeks will grow to a larger size. They are ready for use in autumn and
winter.
CIBOL.
Cibols
are raised from seeds, which are sown in July. The seedling plants soon
appear; but, in the course of the month of October, the leaves go off, and
the ground seems quite bare. In January, however, they again begin to
shoot, and by March they are fit for use.
CHIVES.
Chives
are readily propagated by parting the roots, either in autumn or spring,
and they will grow in any soil or situation. They should be repeatedly cut
during the summer, the successive leaves produced in this way being more
tender. A small bed or border thus managed will afford a sufficient
supply; it will continue productive for three or four years, when a new
plantation should be made.
GARLIC.
Garlic
has a bulbous root, mad up of a dozen or fifteen smaller bulbs, called
cloves; it is propagated by detaching the cloves, and planting them. The
soil should be light and dry, well delved, and broken fine. The sets are
placed four inches distant from each other in every direction, and between
two or three inches deep. The smaller the cloves, the more healthy and
productive will be the plants. They are put in in February or March; about
the middle of June the leaves are tied in knots, to prevent the stronger
plants from running to flower. The crop is taken up in August, when the
leaves begin to wither. The roots are tied in bunches and hung in a dry
room for use.
SHALOT.
The
culture of the shallot is very similar to that of garlic. They are planted
about the middle of October, the ground having been previously manured
with old well-rotted dung, mixed with house-ashes. The crop is taken up in
the end of summer, when the leaves become discoloured, and the bulbs are
hung up in nets, in a cool airy place, for use.
ARTICHOKE.
Artichokes may be planted in any open situation. They are propagated by
means of rooted slips, or suckers, taken off at the time of the spring
dressing, in the beginning of April. They like a light loam, cool, but
dry, and which is at the same time rich and deep. In preparing for this
crop, the soil should be trenched to the depth of three feet, and manure
should be liberally supplied at the bottom of the trench. The plants may
be placed four feet apart every way; and at the end of the first season
after planting, a small and late crop of artichokes may generally be cut
in October. In the second year they will be plentiful; and in autumn, as
soon as all the heads are gathered, the whole stalks are broken down close
to the ground. In November, a portion of earth is drawn towards each
plant, and some long dung, peas-haum, or the like, is laid around, but
kept at some distance from the stems and leaves of the plants. In March or
April, the litter and earth are removed, the stocks are examined, and two
or three of the strongest and best shoots being selected for growing up,
the rest are detached. Every season, at the winter dressing, some small
rotted dung or fresh sea-weed should be dug into the ground. It is
advisable to renew the artichoke plantation every six years.
CARDOON.
The best
soil for cardoons is one that is light, and not too rich; but it ought to
be deep. The seed is sown in the middle or end of May, in small hollows,
about three inches deep, and four feet distant from each other every way.
Two or three seeds are placed in each hollow to ensure a crop, but only
the strongest plant is allowed to remain. The cardoon requires a good deal
of water, and in very dry weather, this should be copiously supplied. In
September when the leaves will be large, they are tied up with hay or
straw bands for blanching, leaving only the top free, but a dry day must
be selected for the purpose; at the same time a hillock of earth is formed
around each plant to the height of a foot or eighteen inches, and this is
smoothed on the surface, that the rain may run off, and not fall into the
centre of the plants. As they advance in growth, additional bands of straw
are added, and the earth is raised higher. They will be ready for use in
two months after the commencement of the blanching. In severe frost, the
tops are covered with haum or long litter.
LETTUCE.
Of each
of the two kinds of lettuce, the coss, also called the Roman and ice, and
the cabbage lettuce, there are many varieties. Of the coss lettuces, the
Egyptian green, the white coss or Versailles, and the royal cape lettuce,
are esteemed; of the cabbage lettuces, the imperial and grand admiral, or
admiral. The large Roman and the Cilicia lettuces are those chiefly used
in soups. The seed is sown broadcast, and merely raked into the ground. A
small sowing may be made in January, the seedlings being transplanted in
March. A considerable crop is sown in the end of February, and the
principal sowing is in March and April. A part of each crop should be
regularly transplanted, to come in season immediately after those left in
the seed-bed; they are fittest for transplanting when they have four or
six leaves; and they are placed from ten to fifteen inches apart,
according to the size they are likely to attain. To forward the cabbaging
of coss lettuce, the leaves may be tied together in the manner practiced
with endive. If the winter be not very severe, lettuces will stand without
much injury, close by the foot of a south wall, and be fit for use in
January, February, and March.
ENDIVE.
The green
curled-leaved and the white curled-leaved are the best kinds; the green
curled-leaved, being the most hardy, is used for the latest crops. The
seed, which must be scattered thinly, is sown some time between the middle
of May and middle of June; another sowing is made in July. When the
seedlings are three or four inches high, they are transplanted into a
well-prepared bed of rich soil, in rows a foot asunder, at the distance of
ten inches from each other in the row. In dry weather, watering is
necessary. The blanching must next be commenced; it is accomplished, when
the plants are perfectly dry, by tying up the heads with strands of
bass-mat; some nicety is requisite in gathering the leaves together in
regular order, so as not to cross each other, and in rejecting such leaves
as are unhealthy. The plants are, at first, tied two inches below the top,
afterwards about the middle of the plant. In three weeks or a month, they
will be found to be sufficiently blanched; but as they will continue in
this state fit for use only a fortnight, a few plants must be tied up
every week in order to their being ready for use in succession. After
October, the mode adopted is, to make some trenches, and to sink the
plants in them nearly to the head, where they will become sufficiently
blanched in four or five weeks. Additional plants may be sunk in the
trenches every fortnight, when the weather happens to be so mild and dry
as to permit it. Endive thus blanched in the earth must be dug out with
the spade.
CELERY.
There are
two varieties, one with hollow, the other with solid stalks – the solid
stalk is generally preferred; another variety, with large red stalks, is
also esteemed. Celery must be sown at several different times, in order to
ensure a succession or plants fit for transplanting at various seasons.
The first sowing is commonly made about the end of March or beginning of
April, in a sheltered border; the next about the beginning of May, on a
moist border. About the end of April, the plants of the first sowing will
be ready for pricking into nursery beds of rich earth, in which they may
stand three or four inches separate. Water is given, and the plants are
shaded from the sun for a few days. A quantity of every successive sowing
should be thus pricked out, in order to strengthen them. Towards the end
of May, the most forward plants may be transplanted into trenches for
blanching. In dry weather, at this season, water is given freely both to
the transplanted plants and those left in the seed-bed. The usual mode of
transplanting and blanching is the following: - Trenches are formed at the
distance of three or four feet from each other, a foot and a half wide,
and about a foot in depth. The soil in the bottom of this trench is delved
and worked fine, and a little rotten dung is mixed with it. The soil for
celery should be deep and rich, somewhat moist, yet of a light nature. The
earth taken from the trench is laid in ridges on each side, ready to be
drawn in as wanted. The plants, having the tops of the long leaves cut
off, and any side-shoots removed, are placed in the bottom of the
trenches, at the distance of four or five inches from each other; as they
advance in growth, the earth is drawn in towards them, perhaps once in ten
days, taking care to do this in dry weather, and not to cover the centre
of the plants with soil. When the plants rise considerably above the
surface of the ground, the earth laid in ridges will be exhausted; a new
trench must, therefore, now be opened between each row, for a supply of
soil to continue the earthing up till the leaf stalks of the celery be
blanched to the length of from eight to fourteen inches. The last sowing
is destined to stand the winter; and the soil into which this is finally
transplanted, should be as dry as possible. In severe weather, peas-haum
or loose litter is thrown over the beds. In lifting the plants for use, it
is proper to dig deep, that the main root may not be injured.
GARDEN
CRESS AND MUSTARD.
These may
be sown, thickly, in close drills, on a warm border, at the bottom of a
south wall, about the middle of March. Throughout the summer they should
be sown once a-fortnight, as they are used only while quite young and
tender. Besides the plain sort of garden cress, there is a variety with
curled leaves, which, being the more hardy of the two, may be sown later
in the season. This kind requires to be thinned out to half an inch
asunder. The white mustard is the best kind for sowing along with the
garden cress, and for using in salad.
FRENCH
AND COMMON SORREL.
The
French sorrel thrives best in a light sandy soil. It is easily propagated
by means of offsets, or by seeds; if in the first way, the plants are
placed a foot apart. The only attention the crop requires is that of
cutting off the flower stems in the month of July. The plants should be
renewed every four or five years. Common sorrel thrives best in a shady
border. It is easily raised from seed sown early in spring.
RADISH.
There are
the spindle-rooted and turnip-rooted radishes; of the turnip-rooted
variety, there is a white and a red kind. The short-topped purple or the
pink radish, both spindle-rooted, may be sown for the earliest crop in the
beginning of November, in a sheltered border; and they will be ready for
drawing early in March. More seed is sown in December and January, and
sowings are continued once a-fortnight until April, in order to secure a
succession of young roots. Any sort of soil will suit this plant. In the
end of March, should the weather happen to be very dry, the crops must be
regularly watered; a slight covering of fern is useful early in spring,
when sharp frosts occur; it may be raked off in the day time, and restored
at night. If radishes are to be drawn small, they may stand at two inches
apart; but if it be intended that the roots should grow large, they must
be allowed twice that distance. The turnip-rooted radish is sown in
February or March, and thinned out with a small hoe to within six inches
apart.
INDIAN
CRESS, OR NASTURTIUM.
A fresh,
but poor soil, is better for this plant than a rich one. The seeds may be
sown in April, in drills about two inches deep. The plants must have a
support, as the stalks will grow to the height of six or eight feet. The
seeds will be ready for use in August or September. There is also a
dwarfish variety, which may be allowed to spread on the ground.
BURNET.
A few
plants only of this are sufficient. It may be raised from seeds sown in
autumn, or by parting the roots. The stems should be two or three times
cut over in summer.
HORSE-RADISH.
The soil
for horse-radish should be rich and deep. It is propagated by cuttings of
the knotty parts of the root, provided these be furnished with one or two
eyes. They are planted in February or March, in lines, leaving a foot and
a half between each line. The sets are placed at the depth of at least a
foot. The roots are not used till the second year, and then they are
raised only as they are wanted. The bed will last for four or five years,
care being taken, in digging the roots, to leave the original set, or
stock, untouched.
PARSLEY.
The
curled parsley is the preferable variety. It may be raised in drills on
the edge of a border. The seeds, which lie for a month or six weeks in the
ground before springing, may be sown in February or early in March. In
order to have fresh parsley leaves throughout the winter, some larch or
beech branches may be laid over the parsley borders; and in hard weather,
above these are spread dry bean-haum, fern, or reeds.
ANGELICA.
Angelica
is easily raised from seed, which should be sown soon after it is
gathered. It grows best in a moist soil, and thrives exceedingly well by
the side of a ditch. Though a biennial plant, it may be made to continue
for several years, by cutting down the flower stem before it ripen to
seed.
RHUBARB.
The kind
cultivated for the table is called monk’s rhubarb. It is propagated by
means of offsets, which should be planted any time between November and
February, in good soil, at the distance of three feet from each other. If
the rhubarb plants be covered in November with a good deal of
stable-litter, the leaves will shoot up every early in spring, and their
stalks will be improved by the blanching they will in this way receive.
HERBS.
SAGE.
The red
kind is preferred for kitchen use; and the lighter and poorer the soil is,
the better will the sage plants stand the winter. It is propagated in the
spring by slips, and in the summer by cuttings. The cuttings should be
five or six inches long, stripped of all the lower leaves, and plunged
nearly to the top in the earth, being at the same time well watered. The
plants should be removed every three or four years.
CLARY.
Clary is
propagated by seeds sown in spring, transplanting the seedlings, in the
summer months, to fifteen inches apart.
MINTS.
Spearmint
is the kind required for culinary purposes, peppermint being little used,
except for distilling. These mints like a moist soil, and are readily
propagated by slips in spring, by parting the roots in autumn, and by
means of cuttings in summer. In the latter end of summer, when the
spearmint is coming into flower, it may be gathered, dried gradually in
the shade, and kept for winter use. As mint plants are sometimes destroyed
in very severe frost, it is advisable to cover them slightly with
peas-haum or fern before winter.
THYME.
Thyme
grows best in a light dry soil that has not been recently manured; it is
propagated by parting the roots, planting slips, or by sowing the seed in
spring.
MARJORAM.
Sweet-marjoram, or knotted-marjoram, is propagated by seed, a little of
which should be sown every spring. Pot-marjoram is easily propagated by
slips or cuttings, and is sufficiently hardy to withstand out winters.
Winter sweet-marjoram requires a sheltered border and a dry soil. It is a
perennial plant, and is propagated by parting the roots in autumn. For
winter use, both the kinds of sweet-marjoram should be dried slowly in the
shade, and afterwards hung up in a dry place.
SAVORY.
Winter
savory is propagated by slips, or by cutting of the young roots, and also
by seeds. It is hardy, and continues good for several years, especially in
poor soils. Summer savory must be sown every spring, in shallow drills,
thinly; the drills being eight or nine inches apart.
TARRAGON.
In a dry
loamy soil, tarragon proves quite a hardy plant; but it is apt to perish
in a wet situation. It is easily propagated by parting the roots, or by
planting in the spring young shoots with only two or three fibres.
TANSY.
Tansy is
extremely hardy, and will grow in any soil. It is easily propagated at any
season by parting the roots.
HYSSOP.
A poor
dry soil is most suitable to hyssop. It may be propagated in the spring
months by seeds, by rooted slips, and by cuttings.
COSTMARY.
Costmary
does best in a dry soil. It is propagated by parting the roots in autumn.
ROSEMARY.
Rosemary
is easily propagated by slips or cuttings in spring. It should be planted
in a dry soil, in a sheltered situation; but if its roots enter the
crevices at the base of an old wall, the plant will not be injured by the
severest frosts.
LAVENDER.
Lavender
is propagated by cuttings, in young slips, any time in the spring months.
It should be planted in a dry, gravelly, or poor soil.
BALM.
Balm is
readily propagated by parting the roots, preserving two or three buds to
each piece; or by slips, either in autumn or spring. In order to have
young leaves all the summer, some of the stalks should be cut down every
month. The balm plantation need not be renewed oftener than every third or
fourth year.
CORIANDER.
The seeds
of coriander should be sown in autumn, and the plants afterwards thinned
out to five or six inches asunder.
CARAWAY.
The
caraway is a biennial plant, and should be sown soon after the seed is
ripe, in autumn, thinning out the plants the next spring, to within four
or six inches apart. A moist soil suits the caraway the best.
SAMPHIRE.
Samphire
is not easily cultivated; it seems to succeed best in a rich light soil,
having sand and gravel mixed with it. It must be in a well-sheltered
situation, and requires to be freely watered in dry weather, till the
roots have struck deep among the soil. If a few plants can be induced to
take root in an old wall, or on an artificial rock-work, they will have a
good chance of remaining. |
