Dunbar, the birthplace
of John Muir, who traveled extensively in the U.S. and
founded the Sierra Club, which still exists, has played a
couple pivotal roles in the history of Scotland. The city
sits on the southeastern coast of Scotland where the Firth
of Forth joins the North Sea in the East Lothian area. It
is approximately 30 miles east of Edinburgh. It is
believed that the Picts were once there, plus items from
the Dark Ages and the Bronze Age have been discovered
there. Nearby Doonhill was the site of a 6th century
wooden hall and a 7th century chief’s hall. Scotland’s
first king, Kenneth McAlpin, torched Dunbar in the 9th
century and then in the 11th century the land was granted
to Gospatrick of Northumbria (which was that area’s name
at that time). It was he who founded the family and earls
of Dunbar. The king’s of the area then were Duncan and
MacBeth, whose names were made very familiar by
Shakespeare’s MacBeth.
There were two major battles at Dunbar. The first in 1295
occurred when John Baliol, who had been set as king of
Scotland by Edward I, turned and attacked England. Edward
retaliated and routed him at Dunbar. The second battle was
in 1650 after Charles I had been killed, and Charles
Stuart returned from exile to Scotland where the Scots
proclaimed him King Charles II of Scotland. Cromwell was
then ‘in charge’ of all of Great Britain. The Scottish
army led by David Leslie, the 1st Lord of Newark, was
encamped ‘safely’ on Doonhill, and had trapped Cromwell’s
troops in Dunbar when he decided to leave his advantageous
position and set up camp in the lower area near Dunbar. In
the night Cromwell attacked. The Scottish army was
decimated, even though it outnumbered the English, and
thousands of prisoners were sent to Newcastle, never to
see Scotland again.
When Queen Mary’s secretary, Rizzio, was murdered in
Edinburgh she fled to hide in Dunbar Castle. Shortly after
her son, James the VI of Scotland, became James the 1st of
England the castle was destroyed.
Andrew Spratt, who has sketched many of Scotland’s castles
based on their ruins and the type castles being built in
an era, has sketched Dunbar Castle as a red stone
structure sitting on rocks or a spit of land jutting out
into the North Sea. Beneath it is what are known as the
Dunbar vaults. The main chamber of these vaults contains
crystal clear water. Some of these vaults also have wooden
floors.
From the Clan Dunbar website the earldom itself has had
its own very colorful history passing through the women in
the family at times when there was no male heir, rescinded
by James I. Recognized as a clan in 1579, the current
chief is Sir James Dunbar. The clan itself has a list of
septs recognized by the clan and a list of acceptable
spellings of the name. People whose names have been found
in the area of Dunbar, but are not one of the above two
clan related groups are still entitled to wear the
district tartan of the Dunbar area.
The area has rich deposits of limestone and a few of the
lime kilns used in the 18th and 19th centuries to burn the
limestone to make the powdery lime used as fertilizer are
still there.
In the 19th century Dunbar became a golfing resort,
perhaps since it receives more direct sunlight than
anywhere in Scotland. It is still an agricultural area and
fishing port.